Subtleties of attic floor insulation. How to properly and how to insulate an attic floor How to properly insulate an attic floor

When insulating a house, be sure to pay attention to the laws of physics. According to them, the air heated in the rooms will rise to the ceiling. If the attic is not sufficiently insulated, then the heat will escape to the outside, and this whole process can be called heat loss.

In order not to heat the street and keep more heat in the house, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of the ceiling. If you still do not know whether it is worth doing these works, then you should take into account that through the roof and goes in the amount of 25 to 40%. This data is especially relevant for houses with a cold roof.

Thermal insulation of the floor will perform three functions at once, which are necessary to create a comfortable microclimate. The material will soundproof, which will keep the house quiet during wind and rain. In winter, the insulation will eliminate heat loss and through which the heated air freely escapes. Thermal insulation is also needed in the summer heat, because with its help you can create a barrier to the path of heated air. Even in the hottest weather, the interior of the house will remain cool.

Material selection

If you are planning to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic, then you need to understand the variety of materials. The type of insulation you choose must be able to withstand a wide temperature range from -30 to +30 °C. It should not freeze at low temperatures and release harmful substances when heated. It is important to purchase fire-resistant thermal insulation. This is true for wired.

It is better if the insulation is moisture resistant so that it does not lose its properties when wet. It should not quickly caking in order to fulfill its purpose for as long as possible. Insulation of the cold attic ceiling can be done with rolls, slabs or This is true for the floor of wooden beams. Whereas if you have to work with concrete slabs, then bulk or slab materials should be purchased.

As mats and plates today are produced:

Styrofoam;
seaweed;
mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;
straw.

As for roll insulation, they are offered for sale in the following varieties:

stone wool;
mineral wool;
glass wool;
algae ladders.

When choosing bulk materials for insulating a cold attic floor, you may prefer:

expanded clay;
reeds;
straw;
buckwheat tyrsa;
ecowool;
sawdust;
slag;
foam granules.

Features of mineral wool insulation

The use of basalt wool

Basalt insulation is made from gabbro-basalt rocks and acts as the best option for thermal insulation of the ceiling from the attic side. The fibers of this material are more plastic, therefore they are not so brittle. They are well pressed into mats with sufficient strength.

Deciding to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic with basalt wool, you get at your disposal a material that copes well with the influence of external factors, therefore it can be laid from the side of an unheated room. Insulation is sold in slabs or rolls, which can have different densities. Sometimes there is a foil layer on one of the sides, which can enhance the insulating effect, because the heat will be reflected into the room.

About the dangers of mineral wool

All mineral wools have one common drawback, which is expressed in a binder consisting of phenol-formaldehyde resins. During operation, they are constantly released into the air, which can be hazardous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to consider this thermal insulation as completely environmentally safe. Basalt wool is laid on the same principle as mineral wool.

The use of extruded polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene, which is also called polystyrene foam, is not a very dense material. It can be used when the floor is made of beams and logs. Extruded polystyrene foam is stronger and denser than regular foam. Before laying the surface is leveled.

On the warm side of the floor, there is no need to cover the vapor barrier, because concrete slabs have almost no vapor permeability. Insulation of the concrete floor of a cold attic involves laying a vapor barrier film. The next layer is the insulation boards, which are staggered. Joints are filled with mounting foam. As soon as it dries and hardens, the canvases are poured with a concrete solution with a thickness of 6 cm. After the screed dries, it can be used as a floor. A floor covering can be laid on the surface.

The use of penoplex

If you insulate the attic, this will not only increase the duration of operation of the truss system, but also the roofing, as well as increase the level of thermal protection of residential premises under the attic. Insulation of the ceiling of a cold attic with foam plastic has replaced other technologies that were used quite widely in construction. In this case, we are talking about the use of glass wool, expanded clay and sea grass.

Modern choice - "Penoplex-panel"

In rural areas, the floor of an unheated attic is still insulated with clay and wood shavings. For sale today is the "Penoplex-panel", which is specially designed for cold attics. If you neglect the work on the thermal insulation of the room above the living space, this can cause the insulation to get wet, which occurs due to condensation. Sometimes, under appropriate conditions, the roof structure even begins to collapse, which is especially important with constant dampness.

Is it worth it to use metal fasteners

When the attic floor is not insulated, icicles and frost are constantly formed. Large heat losses were mentioned above, they are caused by a weak level of thermal protection. When developing a scheme for insulating the ceiling of a cold attic using foam, you must take into account the features of how the floor nodes will join with thermal insulation. The manufacturer does not recommend the use of metal fasteners, because they contribute to the formation of cold bridges, which reduces the level of thermal protection.

To create a heat-insulating cake, a leveling screed is laid on the floors. Next, a vapor barrier in the form of polyethylene is covered. The next layer will be foam. Do not forget about the presence of a separating layer in the form of polyethylene. At the last stage, a cement-sand screed is poured.

Thermal insulation of a cold attic floor may involve working with sheet material in the form of plywood or OSB. In this case, a vapor barrier, wooden beams and foam insulation are laid on the surface. You can cover it with sheet material in the form of GVL or DSP.

Finally

Warming a cold attic allows you to create a border between cold and heat. Due to the formation of condensate in the attic floor area, appropriate conditions arise that can contribute to impressive heat losses. Proper floor insulation allows you to create a barrier with a low degree of thermal conductivity.

Warming the attic floor of the house allows you to save more heat inside the room, and not spend it on heating a cold attic. Well, if it is used as a utility room (technical attic) or as an attic, but if not? Then it is pointless to spend resources on heating an unheated attic space.

That is why it is worth making the insulation of the cold attic ceiling using heat-insulating materials. You can perform insulation from the side of the attic or from the side of the room (inside / outside). It is best to do this during the construction period of the building, or immediately before the final finishing of the room. But even during the operation of the house, there is no reason not to insulate the ceiling from the attic.

The thickness of the attic floor insulation is standardized using SNiP II-3-79 "Construction Heat Engineering". This manual contains detailed recommendations on the choice and formulas for calculating the resistance to heat transfer of various thermal insulation materials. The calculations take into account not only the type of material, but also the average annual temperature, the duration of the heating season, the wall material of the house.

The attic floor insulation technology depends on the material chosen.

In this article we will consider the most popular heaters.

Mineral wool is a heater, the fibers of which are arranged in a certain way. Namely, this randomness leads to the fact that an air cushion is formed between the fibers, which informs the insulation of its properties. However, the same feature of cotton wool increases the ability to absorb moisture. To avoid this, you need to know how to properly install mineral wool.

Benefits of mineral wool:

high density;
long service life;
Fire safety;
ease of installation;
the use of mineral wool for insulation of horizontal surfaces does not lead to its caking, slipping and, as a result, the formation of cold bridges.

Among the disadvantages: the ability to absorb moisture.

There are three main ways to lay cotton wool: continuous, in grooves or in cells (see photo). The choice of method depends on what load will fall on the floor in the future. The most stable frame is obtained in the latter case.

First stage

It starts with laying the vapor barrier film. The film will allow you to remove the steam that rises from a warm living space to a cold attic. To lay the film correctly, you need to carefully read the markings applied to it. Be sure to observe an overlap of 100 mm.

Attic floor insulation technology with mineral wool Otherwise, the beams may rot.

At the junction of the film and walls or other protruding surfaces, it is necessary to raise it to a height equal to the thickness of the insulation plus 50 mm. and glue it with tape or wrap it on the insulation plate.

Second phase

Insulation (wool) is being laid. This is a fairly simple process. Slabs or strips are easily cut with a construction knife to the desired size.

When laying the sheet, make sure that there are no gaps left or that the mineral wool material is not strongly squeezed. Both will lead to a decrease in the quality of insulation. Typical mistakes in the photo.

a) insufficient thickness of the heat-insulating material;

b, c, d) the thickness of the attic floor insulation is incorrectly selected.

insulation with foil will increase the resistance of the material to heat loss. The sheet is laid with the foil side down.

the insulation should not protrude beyond the beam. If such a situation has arisen, the beam must be extended with a wooden beam or an additional rail to the thickness of the insulation.

a thin insulation laid in two layers retains more heat than one thick one. In this case, the plates must be laid in a checkerboard pattern.

if there are protruding structural elements in the attic, for example, a chimney pipe, you need to raise the insulation to a height of 400-500 mm. and fix it.

Third stage

Waterproofing is carried out if the attic is not supposed to be used, and the truss system is not protected by a waterproofing film. If the roofing material is separated from the attic with a film, then you can proceed with the final stage.

Draft floor. It is laid over the insulation and serves as the basis for the final finish.

The process according to the installation technology is similar to the insulation of the attic floor with polystyrene foam.

The advantages of these materials:

low cost;
ease of operation;
waterproof.

Among the disadvantages: flammability.

Attic floor insulation technology with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

The installation process of rigid insulation based on RїРµРЅРѕРїР»Р°СЃС‚Р° is more than simple and can be done by hand. The work can be divided into two stages:

surface leveling. To ensure high-quality insulation, there should be no significant irregularities on the floor of the base. You can eliminate such differences by performing a screed with a sand-cement mortar.

slabs are laid butt-to-butt or between beams. The presence of a bar increases the strength of the floor.

Insulation of the attic floor with foam plastic Draft coating

Styrofoam must be protected from destruction with a film in a non-residential attic. In a frequently used or residential attic, you need to somehow move, so it is better to equip an OSB subfloor or a sand-cement screed over polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.

Sawdust is finely chopped wood.

Advantages:

naturalness;
no toxic impurities;
light weight;
material availability.

The disadvantage is flammability.

Attic insulation technology with sawdust

before proceeding with the insulation with sawdust, they need to be prepared. Namely, mix cement and water with sawdust in a ratio of 10:1:1.

Pour the attic floor with the finished mixture and level it. It is worth noting that it is possible to use sawdust as a heater without using a frame only in a non-residential attic. Otherwise, when walking on the floor, sawdust will be compressed, and the concrete screed will collapse.

build a cellular structure from a bar. Pour a solution with sawdust into each cell. The advantage of this method is that a subfloor can be laid along the timber. And the attic will be usable

Expanded clay is obtained by firing clay.

Advantages:

low thermal conductivity;
naturalness;
environmental friendliness;
ease;
availability.

The disadvantage is associated with the difficulty of lifting expanded clay to the height of the attic.

Expanded clay is usually used if it is necessary to insulate the attic floor over the slabs.

Expanded clay attic insulation technology

The work is carried out in three stages:

the plate is inspected for cracks and cracks. They are sealed with mortar or covered with thick paper. The protruding elements do not create difficulties with backfilling of expanded clay.

mount a crate from a bar. A rough floor will be laid on it in the future.

loose insulation is poured onto the stove and leveled with a conventional rake. Layer thickness 250-300 mm. You can move around expanded clay without restrictions.

Insulation of the attic floor with expanded clay Tip: when filling expanded clay, it is better to combine granules of different sizes (diameters). This way you can avoid the appearance of voids.

At the end, a subfloor is mounted or poured with a sand-cement screed.

Please note that the insulation of the attic wooden floor has some nuances:

the tree is subject to decay, which means that the steam rising up must pass freely. Improper installation of films or the use of non-breathable materials, such as roofing felt, will lead to the destruction of wood in the future.

using foil insulation, you need to place it with the foil down. So the wood will be protected from water ingress and at the same time, it will not accumulate steam moisture.

"Correct" - use a superdiffusion membrane or vapor barrier film

"Wrong" - to lay a special film without marking or even a regular film

The scheme of insulation of the attic floor for heaters of various types is given below.

Attic floor insulation scheme - 1

Attic floor insulation scheme - 2

moydomik.net

A bit from the history of roofing

Since ancient times, people have built private households with such high quality that they could stand for 100 years. At the same time, it was not cold to live in them, and the natural wood roof frame was always dry. As for the shape of the roofs on such buildings, they were most often built with two slopes, and had a slight slope.

This choice was explained by the fact that the snow that fell in winter had to linger on the roof and act as a natural insulation. In the attic of the building, one, less often two windows were made. They were closed for the winter and then the air in the under-roof space played the role of a heat insulator.

During the summer, the windows were opened slightly at night to cool the temperature in the attic. In the heat they were closed, and the air did not heat up. So in the attic they regulated the temperature.

In winter, when snow fell, it covered the roof with a continuous carpet and thus was a roofing natural heat insulator. Even in severe frosts, the temperature in the under-roof space did not drop below zero. As a result, the house was warm in cold weather.

At the same time, the roof slopes were not insulated so that the snow on them would not melt. The rafter system was left open, thereby allowing its inspection and maintenance. Therefore, in such attics, only floors were thermally insulated.

If the roof slopes are insulated, then the attic becomes a heated attic, which has a different functional purpose.

Building materials for floor insulation - the better to insulate

A large selection of building materials is presented on the domestic market. To decide how to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic, it is necessary to take into account the conditions in which the heat insulator will be operated.

There are a number of requirements for a heater:

preservation of its original qualities at temperatures from -30 to +30 degrees;
in hot weather, the material should not emit substances harmful to people and freeze in severe frost;
you need to choose a fire-resistant heat insulator if lighting is planned in the attic;
products must be moisture resistant so that when wet, their original properties do not decrease.

Before you purchase materials for insulating the floor of an unheated attic in a private household, you need to consider what the floor is made of. If these are wooden beams, then bulk, roll or slab heaters are used. When the ceiling was created from concrete slabs, bulk or slab insulators that are heavy in weight can be used. Often a cement screed is poured on the floor.

In the form of plates and mats they sell:

mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;
Styrofoam;
straw;
seaweed.

In the form of rolls are made:

mineral wool;
stone and glass wool;
algae ladders.

One of the most popular options for arranging thermal insulation is the insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool.

Bulk materials include:

expanded clay;
sawdust;
straw;
reeds;
ecowool;
granular foam;
slag.

When laying insulation in the attic in a wooden house, you need to use natural, environmentally friendly and breathable materials.

Mineral wool attic insulation

This modern and popular insulation is produced in rolls or mats. Mineral wool does not burn, does not rot, various microorganisms and rodents are not dangerous to it.

Insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool is carried out in stages:

First lay the lining material on the floor. In the case of an economy option, inexpensive glassine is laid on the floor. A more expensive and high-quality device will be a flooring device made of a vapor barrier film, which is mounted with an overlap.
At the same time, the joints of the segments are glued with adhesive tape or fastened with wooden slats, fixing them with a stapler.
The width of the thermal insulation material is selected taking into account the technical standards for a particular region. The mineral wool between the lags is laid out tightly, leaving no gaps. Tape is used to seal the joints.
After the installation of the insulation is completed, even boards are placed on the logs and this is how the floor in the attic is formed.

The above solution on how to insulate the attic of a private house with mineral wool gives the material the ability to "breathe" and ventilate when moisture gets on it. To prevent the penetration of moist air into the insulation, waterproofing is mounted under the roof.

When working with mineral wool, you need to use protective equipment, such as a respirator, goggles, gloves and overalls.

Application of extruded polystyrene foam

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) refers to loose materials, so it is used if it is necessary to insulate a floor made of logs and beams. For thermal insulation of plates, extruded polystyrene foam is used, which is denser than conventional foam.

Before laying it, the surface of the base is leveled. On the warm side of the floor, vapor barrier is not needed, since concrete slabs have practically no vapor permeability. A vapor barrier film is laid out on the prepared base. Then, slabs of extruded insulation are laid out in a checkerboard pattern. Mounting foam is blown into the joints.

After it dries and becomes hard, the thermal insulation slabs are poured with a concrete mixture about 4–6 centimeters thick. After hardening, the screed becomes suitable for use as an attic floor. If desired, you can lay the final coating on the screed.

Insulation of a cold attic with ecowool

Ecowool is a lightweight and at the same time loose heat insulator, consisting of cellulose, it also contains flame retardants, such as boric acid and borax. Before starting work, a film is laid on the floor. For laying ecowool, a special blowing machine is used.

The heat-insulating layer is applied continuously, without leaving even the slightest gaps. Ecowool contains a large volume of air, so a layer of 250-300 millimeters is enough. When performing insulation, it should be remembered that shrinkage of this material occurs over time. Therefore, a layer of ecowool is applied with a margin of 40-50 millimeters.

Then the insulation must be moistened with water or with a solution. It is prepared from 200 grams of PVA glue and a bucket of water. The broom is moistened in the solution and the cotton wool is well moistened. After drying, lignin is formed on the heat-insulating layer - a crust that prevents the insulation from moving.

Which method of attic insulation from the above options to choose depends on the specific situation.

kryshadoma.com

And for those who like to delve into absolutely all the subtleties of construction - a useful video:

What insulation is suitable for the attic?

It is necessary to insulate the attic floor when the attic space is not planned to be used for housing. Those. we are talking about a cold attic, the roof slopes of which are not insulated at all. And far from all the same materials are already suitable for overlapping, they are selected for slopes.

Mineral wool: no harmful dust

So, when insulating the attic floor with mineral wool, it is correct to use the so-called tension method. Its essence is that first the insulating material is laid - and so that it registers between the beams.

After that, a slab or rolled mineral wool insulation with a total thickness of about 150 millimeters is laid on it in three layers, and it is covered with a vapor barrier film on top. After that, plywood, which should be no thinner than 18 millimeters.

Expanded polystyrene and foam: ease of installation

High-quality insulation of the attic floor with expanded polystyrene is also obtained, the main advantage of which is that there is no need for vapor barrier, and all gaps are easily sealed with mounting foam.

Inflatable insulation: fashion and rationality

Recently, it has become especially popular to insulate the attic floor by blowing.

The main advantage of blown insulation is that it fills all the voids that exist by itself and creates an even continuous layer. In which there are no joints, no seams and no adjoining, and for which there is no need to cut separate small pieces of prickly insulation to plug something.

Today, for the insulation of cold attics in Russia, two types of blown insulation are mainly used: ecowool and blown wool.

Ecowool up to 80% consists of cellulose fibers, which are produced from ordinary waste paper, and 20% from additives such as snowstorm as a fire retardant and boric acid as an antiseptic. Such a heater has a high thermal conductivity.

But blown wool is obtained by grinding ordinary mineral materials for thermal insulation, which for some reason did not pass the acceptance of products.

For example, they did not have sufficient density or the correct structure of the fibers. And such material is crushed and packed under high pressure, and therefore it is easy to transport it to the site of the facility, where everything will be loosened again upon arrival.

But still, ecowool is most often used as a material. The insulation itself in the process looks like this: one person must remain near the installation and monitor its normal operation, while loading the material. And the second person goes up to the attic with the hose, makes a cruciform incision on the vapor barrier (just between the beams), inserts the hose into this incision, and fills the cavity with material.

Plus, relatively inexpensive bulk materials are used to insulate a cold attic:

What parameters of the heater should be paid attention to?

In no case do we urge you to purchase the most expensive heat-insulating materials to insulate your attic floor. But note that the more and longer any well-known company produces materials for this purpose, the more it pays attention to quality, changing their bulk density, improving their products and increasing thermal insulation coefficients. And that already says something.

For the rest, always pay attention to such parameters of heaters that are important for a wooden floor, and have none for concrete - and vice versa.

Parameter number 1. Biostability

We are talking about the fact that in such a heater, which often remains open, bugs or some other living creatures do not start. This is especially true of mice, who love to live in a warm and dry (and, most importantly, deserted) attic.

Another important requirement for attic insulation is water resistance. Raindrops accidentally falling into it or simply moisture should not lead to the process of decay.

Glass wool is recognized as one of the most resistant heaters:

Parameter number 2. Thermal conductivity

The main requirements for insulation for the attic floor is the ability to maintain thermal insulation properties for a long time.

When buying a heater, also pay attention to such an interesting point: modern manufacturers of thermal insulation materials always indicate in the technical specification three coefficients of thermal conductivity of the material at once: in a dry state, at a temperature of 10 ° and 25 °, and humidity categories A and B.

You need to look at the coefficient of thermal conductivity in a dry state, or at a temperature of 10 degrees, because this is exactly the normal climatic situation in the attic. For a more accurate and detailed thermal calculation, you will need a SNiP table.

Now let's take a moment. When choosing a heater, you will probably be advised to take a heater with the lowest possible degree of thermal conductivity. But in fact, this only makes sense for residential attics, because when you have to insulate the roof slopes, then too thick materials cannot be laid between the rafters. Therefore, materials are needed here that will conduct heat as poorly as possible, but at the same time have a small thickness.

But for the attic floor, just the thickness of the insulation is not a critical factor, and you can save on this. Just take a cheaper insulation, but thicker, albeit with high thermal conductivity. You are all compensated by the height of the insulation itself.

Parameter number 3. Weight

Depending on the chemical composition, each insulation has its own volumetric mass. So, materials such as basalt, glass and any other inorganic and organic compounds are most often used as the basis for fibers. From their type, the heat-insulating material itself becomes either light or heavy. And the shape of all these materials is provided precisely by the elasticity of the fibers: how much they straighten between the floor beams.

Note that heavy insulation keeps its shape better due to the rigidity of its fibers. And foam insulation has the best stability for attic floor insulation, which in this parameter is equated to hard stone wool. But there is a moment: the same mineral wool insulation that was inserted between the floor beams can be easily straightened and pressed tightly against the wood, but the foam will not do this, and voids form - the bridges are cold. Therefore, you will have to additionally use a can of foam to close all the cracks.

On the other hand, if the attic floor is insulated on a reinforced concrete slab with foam-based materials, then there will only be pluses. Not to mention the fact that the attic concrete floor itself already has a considerable weight and creates a serious load on the walls and foundation of the house, and the use of light insulation for it is only a big bonus.

And unlike the concrete floor, the attic floor is able to withstand a fairly limited load. Therefore, the weight of the insulation in this regard is also not the last moment. After all, there are already many variations here: the same cubic meter of thermal insulation can weigh as much as 11 kilograms, and all 350 - this is the norm.

One of the heaviest heaters is basalt wool:

Parameter number 4. Moisture resistance

Rain moisture or roof leaks accidentally getting into the insulation should not start the rotting process. It is bad if after six months or a year the new insulation begins to decompose from the inside, while emitting an unpleasant smell of dampness.

Therefore, attic floor insulation on wooden beams and on concrete is quite often done using polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, which are known for their almost zero hydrophobicity.

Parameter number 5. Environmental friendliness

Another point: the attic insulation should not emit any toxic and pungent substances in terms of smell, despite the fact that, perhaps, no one will walk in such an attic.

It's all about ventilation: sooner or later, the insulation molecules are picked up by the air and brought into the living quarters, which can be unsafe for the residents of the house. Therefore, choose a heater that meets sanitary standards.

Parameter number 6. Shape saving

Another important point is the form stability of the selected insulation. So, special laboratory tests have shown that over time, heat loss through the gaps between the plates or the matte heat insulator can reach 40%. And this despite the fact that the material itself during the same time may not change its thermal conductivity at all, if at the same time it remained dry.

Therefore, the stability of the shape and dimensions of the material over time is very important. For the concrete floor of the attic, such gaps will not be critical, because here the floor itself is quite heat-insulating, which cannot be said about the attic floor.

But the problem is that in the technical information for modern heat insulators such a parameter as shape or stability cannot be found.

Parameter number 7. Fire safety

And the last point: attic insulation must meet all fire safety requirements. Take the same popular ecowool, which is not just made from ordinary waste paper and pieces of newspapers. It would seem that everything is simple and ingenious, why don't you cut the paper into smaller pieces too, and just fill the attic with it? Would it be worse? After all, the principle of friability is also involved here, like in animal hair, when air molecules get stuck between small elements.

Let's just say: yes, the insulating properties of this method will not be worse, but it is the old dry paper and wood that most often leads to an unexpected fire. That is why modern cellulose insulation is necessarily treated with special chemicals against fire.

If we are talking about the combustibility of materials, then it is important that the insulation not only does not burn, but also has attenuation. Just remember that everything burns at the epicenter of the fire, both iron and concrete, but if a spark falls on the attic floor, then the insulation should not light up. That's what it's all about.

This is what the attic insulation cake itself should look like:

Vapor barrier questions: how, on which side and is it necessary?

For the insulation of roofing made of wood and concrete, the vapor permeability of the insulation is of great importance. So, all heaters that are made today in the form of plates and rolls can be conditionally divided into "wool" and "foam", as building contractors like to do.

To "cotton" we will refer heat-insulating materials from organic and mineral fibers - these are mineral wool, stone wool and glass wool insulation. All these materials are formed by the hardening of plastic masses of very different chemical origins. And all these materials have approximately the same coefficient of thermal conductivity: within 0.04.

All these materials are made up of fibers that are intertwined with each other. They do not form any closed pores, and water vapor easily enters and escapes through them. Therefore, all wadded heaters are vapor-permeable materials. Why, under production conditions, their fibers are additionally coated with a special water-repellent substance, and the heaters also turn out to be hydrophobized: a water molecule from water vapor is not allowed to penetrate and wet the insulation. It can only cling to its surface, and when a critical mass accumulates, it transforms into drops and rolls down. It turns out that hydrophobized cotton wool insulation is not a wet vapor-permeable material.

Therefore, until now, scientists from all over the world cannot come to an unambiguous conclusion: the vapor permeability of building insulation is good or bad. Let's just say that if you equip the attic floor on wooden beams, you'd better lay vapor-permeable materials on it so that the wooden rafters, which have taken on moisture from the lower living quarters (and water vapor always rises), can freely give it to the insulation . And they will easily come out of the insulation - through ventilation alone is enough. But in terms of floor insulation on concrete, there is not much difference. But there is such a moment here: when using vapor-permeable heaters, it is important that the ventilation of such an attic is organized in accordance with all the rules, and a separate ventilation system will not interfere.

Note that there are no fibers in foam insulation, since such material is literally made from air. All foam insulation consists of a cellular structure, with closed bubbles and not closed, like a kitchen sponge. Therefore, such heat insulators can be both vapor-permeable and non-vapor-permeable. For example, extruded polystyrene foam, which is better known to us as polystyrene, passes water vapor between the balls, but extruded polystyrene foam does not.

Interestingly, you can use not only one type of insulation, but two at once to compensate for each other's shortcomings. But at the same time, a heat-insulating material with a lower vapor permeability must necessarily lie in front of a heater with a high vapor permeability. That is, first polystyrene foam, then cotton wool. Otherwise, in the opposite case, a material with a lower vapor permeability will become a certain vapor barrier for another material, it will simply begin to rot and there will be nowhere for moisture to go.

How to insulate a concrete attic floor

If we are talking about the insulation of the attic floor of concrete, then the thermal insulation must necessarily be in the form of two or three layers with overlapping joints of each lower layer. Moreover, it is very important that the entire surface be leveled so that there are no irregularities of more than 5 millimeters anywhere - this is not difficult to achieve with the help of modern leveling compounds.

For concrete attic floors, extruded polystyrene foam slabs are ideal as thermal insulation. They don't need a vapor barrier, but if you put styrofoam - it's not extruded polystyrene foam, and then, of course, you need it.

Additionally, if you later need to walk on such a floor, you can make a cement-sand screed up to 4 centimeters and put two layers of drywall sheets. Just be sure to make masonry mesh paths for such a screed that you will walk along. Be sure to glue the joints between the foam polystyrene plates with tape so that cement milk does not leak between the plates.

The attic floor itself can be insulated both at the manufacturing stage and at almost any time during the operation of the house itself. Of course, for the attic it is much more correct to insulate the floor even before you move into your new home.

More details about the process itself:

How to insulate a wooden attic floor

So, there are two main ways to insulate the attic floor: laying a heat-insulating layer inside the structure of the attic floor, and laying insulation on top of it. For a cold and non-residential attic, it is not necessary to cover the insulation with something on top and build a full-fledged floor. But then be sure to leave the running ladders - separate paths from the sparse flooring throughout the attic area, this is necessary for roof maintenance.

Under the insulation, you need to put a vapor barrier, and in the form of a trough, so that it can protect the insulation from water vapor, which comes from the lower living quarters. But there is an exception to this rule: if the insulation was laid with good resistance, for example, it is foam or extruded polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier is not needed here. But if we are talking about an attic with a particularly wet regime, for example, above a kitchen or a sauna, then a vapor barrier layer must be installed here.

Another method is tension, when the vapor barrier only sags slightly between the beams. The disadvantage of this method is that in this way the insulation between the beams is not inserted tightly enough.

And if the overlap is also made from ready-made companies, then this option is not suitable at all, because such voids quickly become the so-called cold bridges. Therefore, in Russia the method is more popular, in which the insulation is first laid, then it is covered with a vapor barrier, and only then - with a finishing floor.

So, this is what the whole process of warming looks like:

Step 1. A vapor barrier is fixed between the beams using a construction stapler.
Step 2. Next, mineral wool slabs are cut so that their width is corresponding to the step of the beams.
Step 3. These plates are carefully inserted into the gap between the beams.
Step 4. For a while, while the ceiling is not yet ready below, so that the insulation does not fall between the beams, it is supported by draft bars or a strong thread stretched especially for this.
Step 5. Next, a diffuse membrane is quickly mounted on top of the insulation - so that steam can easily escape through it, and drops from above from the slopes do not penetrate inside.

But let us also note such a moment about the last step. Many experts believe that no diffuse membranes or windproof films are needed for insulation, because in a cold attic, thermal insulation will dry due to natural ventilation of convection air flows that easily penetrate through holes and dormer windows.

Living in your cottage can be overshadowed by low indoor temperatures during the cold season and high expenses for. To avoid this, perform insulation of the ceiling of a private house. With the help of traditional and new materials, ceiling, attic or interfloor insulation is performed.

The process of floor insulation in a frame house using mineral wool

According to the laws of physics, warm air always rises. If it is not heated, the heat from the lower floor comes out through it. Heat losses can be up to 40%. Warm air escapes through small cracks in concrete, pores in wooden ceilings. Properly executed thermal insulation will prevent freezing, will reduce heating costs.

In all private houses with a cold ceiling, it is recommended to carry out thermal insulation of the ceiling. Such work can be performed at the construction stage or in an already erected house. In the second case, insulation is carried out if the coatings were made a long time ago and have lost their heat-insulating properties over time.

Materials for insulation

For thermal insulation, four groups of heaters are used:

In addition to the direct function of thermal insulation, they possess. In summer, they protect the house from high ambient temperatures. Among the main properties of heat-insulating agents, which are important for, there are:

Before the final choice of a thermal insulation agent, it is also important to analyze:

Climatic conditions. The colder it is outside in winter, the thicker the insulation layer should be.
Budget. Quite often, the choice depends only on the availability of money.
Additional work. What else needs to be done to insulate the ceiling.

Laying mineral wool in beams before lining the ceiling with clapboard

Perhaps this is the replacement of structural elements, finishing materials, the application of additional or treatment with refractory preparations.

Sawdust

Sawdust can be used for thermal insulation of the floor. Affects its low price, availability, low cost of work. The main disadvantage of sawdust is combustibility, low moisture resistance. This leads to easy ignition, rotting, and the appearance of fungus. Therefore, sawdust is processed before laying.

The process of filling sawdust in the cavity between the beams under the flooring sheets

To reduce the moisture content and prevent the appearance of mold, sawdust is dried in a special chamber for a year. Later them, fungicides.

Hydrated lime will help reduce the risk of rodent infestation. To reduce flammability, they are mixed with flame retardants.

Thermal insulation using sawdust is carried out in two ways. Sawdust is simply poured onto the prepared surface.

This method is not required. Since the shrinkage of the material begins quite quickly, which requires regular replenishment. For the second method, sawdust is mixed with cement mortar.

Styrofoam

Plate breathable material, has a low price, does not accumulate moisture, does not rot. Mold, fungi, microorganisms do not grow on polystyrene. It has high thermal conductivity, high temperature resistance, good sound insulation. Conducts moisture well. Light weight allows it to be laid on thin ceilings. Durable.

Installation of foam sheets to the ceiling

Main disadvantages:

Flammability. This is the main drawback of the material. It is not mounted where there is free air access. When used for ceilings, they must be treated with plaster or refractory preparations.
Rodents. Mice love to make their nests in Styrofoam.

To exclude the penetration of rodents, use a metal fine mesh.

Expanded clay

Bulk material is the second most popular insulation. It has high thermal insulation properties, is always on sale, it is easy to lay it yourself.

It is inexpensive. Expanded clay disadvantages:

For styling, large and small particles are mixed. This combination will fill the empty space. To protect against moisture, a cement mortar is poured. Its thickness should be no more than 20 mm.

Mineral wool

It is produced in the form of a roll, rolled out on the surface, cut off. The material is inexpensive, has good thermal insulation, quickly fits. Among its shortcomings are:

The thermal barrier decreases when the wool is squeezed, so you can’t step on it; immediately after laying, flooring is made.

Penoizol and polyurethane foam

Heaters of this type are poured or sprayed. This material cannot be laid on its own, because. its application requires special equipment, protective suits, and professional skills.

Foam products fill with themselves all the slightest cracks, cracks. They do not attract insects, do not burn, and are safe for humans. The substance contains a large number of air bubbles that contribute to.
Flaws:

High price.
Fragility. The material does not restore its original shape after damage.
Shrinkage. Penoizol has a slight shrinkage.

After complete solidification, it is necessary to replenish the settled material.

Insulation technologies

Depending on the structure, they insulate the ceiling, attic or interfloor ceilings.

Ceiling

This type of thermal insulation includes three main steps: preparation, interior work, and work in the attic. The preparatory stage begins with cleaning the surface of debris, dirt, excess items. For insulation with mineral wool, foam plastic, sawdust, load-bearing beams 50 x 100 cm in cross section are prepared. They must be checked before installation.

Scheme with the names of the elements of insulation of the attic floor in the cottage

Damaged areas are removed or replaced. Mold, fungus are removed with a grinder or ordinary sandpaper. Mandatory treatment of beams with means of fire, bioprotection.
The next step is the installation of utilities.

Detailed scheme of insulation of the attic floor

The process of attic insulation includes preparation, laying of thermal insulation outside and inside, thermal insulation of gables, finishing. Bulk products are not suitable for attic floors.

Warming is carried out with slab or roll materials. When using reinforced concrete floor slabs, they usually insulate the outer and inner parts of the roof.

First, the old flooring is removed and the truss system is checked. If necessary, they change parts, carry out repairs. If the logs are thinner than the thermal insulator, they are built up with bars of a suitable size. All wooden elements are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

A vapor barrier membrane is attached to the bars with a stapler so that the smooth surface is on the side of the thermal insulation. The insulating material itself is spread or laid. Another layer of vapor barrier material is spread over the thermal insulator. All seams are closed with tape. The insulation of the attic floor is completed with the manufacture of wooden crates for fixing finishing materials.

Watch in the video the process of warming the attic floor with mineral wool.

Interfloor overlap

Insulation of interfloor ceilings begins with checking the level of the floor. If differences are noted, it is better to eliminate them with a cement-sand screed. Beams are prepared, all traces of mold are removed, treated with an antiseptic and refractory agents. The space between the beams and the structure is filled with foam, the remains are cut off. A waterproofing or vapor barrier membrane is attached to the beams.

Mounted vapor barrier membrane before insulation of the interfloor ceiling

They are wrapped in foil so that the edges remain open. This will allow them to dry better. The next step is to install the insulation. For interfloor ceilings, it is advised to use foam or mineral wool. Waterproofing is mounted on top of the insulating material and finishing work is carried out at the end.

The attic is an outpost for the struggle between heat and cold and heating costs. A signal that it is time to pay attention to the shortcomings of the attic will be icicles on the north side of the house or thawed patches on the roof.

Along with the insulation of walls and floors, one should not forget about attic floors. Streams of warm air are always directed upwards, and when in contact with a cold ceiling, they quickly cool. Under the influence of heat, the snow begins to melt, and cold damp air enters the house. Humidity causes blackness and mold to appear on the walls.

The attic is a kind of balance that is responsible for the temperature inside and outside the house. Ennobled space should protect from heat in summer, and keep warm in winter. Moreover, the free space is usually empty, but the events carried out will affect meters of usable area, and saved heat change the microclimate in the house.

Regulatory requirements for thermal insulation

According SNiP II-3-79 calculations are made from the average temperature values and the duration of the heating season in the region. The calculation figures are determined based on the presence of a dry room, since from illiterate work, tightness of the insulation suffers from the accumulation of moisture. Condensate flowing down the rafters causes rotting, which has negative consequences for the structure of the house.

The rules are regulated by the document SP 23-101-2000, where in the section on roofs and attics (paragraphs 8.18 - 8.25), the main requirements for thermal insulation are indicated.

Choosing a heater:

Builders sometimes use several types of insulation to create reliable thermal insulation. Laying expanded clay, mineral wool and other options do not require professional skills, and you can handle the process yourself.

Choice heat-insulating material is of priority, since it is its characteristics that will ensure dryness and save you from major repairs.

Warming technology:

The principle of insulation is due to the laying of mats or the distribution of the roll over attic floors. Layer thickness depends on the structure and beams.

Regardless floor type- tiled or beam, the process of insulation is similar. It is permissible to deviate from the condition of the need to lay a vapor barrier in the case of a tiled floor, which is not characterized by evaporation.

The next step will be the organization of the process associated with the laying of windproof material. Ventilation is provided through the gables. The load-bearing elements of the frame are of particular importance in the sense that they should not touch the outer walls and insulation. According to the norms for the attic in 100 sq. m. ventilation is needed holes in 0.1 sq. m(2 vents for attic area 30×20).

Materials for insulation

Ecowool

Fluff pulp is taken as the basis for creating insulation. Products have only positive properties, and with the application of special impregnations increased resistance to fire, therefore it is considered a non-combustible material. It is stored in bags, which is convenient when backfilling between floor blocks. Required vapor barrier and wind insulation. The only drawback is the high price.

polyurethane foam

The material is considered a universal option, and has many advantages. Often used to insulate the inside of a gable roof, since a thin layer retains heat well. Has only positive characteristics.

The thermal conductivity coefficient is 2.5 times lower than that of mineral wool. This fact requires a thin substrate layer.
Spraying technology eliminates the need for additional closing of joints.
PPU is placed on the insulated area without the stage of the preparatory stage.
Excellent adhesion to any building materials.
PPU do not like to gnaw mice.
It has vapor-tight properties, which eliminates the need for waterproofing.
The material is strong, light and thin. This is important for load-bearing structures.
The seamless design of the material and the absence of connecting elements at the joints do not allow non-insulated areas.
Spraying involves minimal time costs. Work on a medium-sized roof area can be completed in one day.

Mineral wool

traditionally used and in demand heater option. Mineral wool is represented by glass, stone or slag species containing small fibers.

The technology is based on the melting of glass, basalt or blast-furnace slag.

It has good properties, but against the background of technological materials, it loses in terms of thermal conductivity:

requires a vapor barrier substrate, in the "wet" case it loses its heat-shielding properties;
the process of working with cotton wool, as with insulation, does not involve any difficulties, but it requires a crate on top of which, and cotton wool is spread, if there are beams on the roof, then another design is not required;
mineral wool is sold in the form of mats or rolls;

Bulk materials

The folk way of warming with wood sawdust is still relevant at the present time, only the category of bulk materials is headed by expanded clay. Boiler slag is also used. They are heavy in weight and for them powerful beams are required and strong lining. In the case of a beam ceiling, they are rarely used. Perlite and ecowool, in contrast to those listed, have advantages, but cost more than other types of backfills.

Styrofoam

Inexpensive and high-quality type of substrate with low density. Below it is desirable to put vapor barrier, so that the emitted substances from the foam do not penetrate into the room.

Installation is simple:

The plates are cut with a knife and tightly packed.
The gaps are filled with construction foam.
After it dries, a screed should be made up to 5 cm thick.

Despite the fact that the foam does not burn and has many advantages, it is able to melt and emit harmful gas.

Pay attention to the dimensions of the beams. If they are made in the form reliable framework, this will allow you to fill the slats for the subsequent placement of insulation.
Correctly calculate the distance between the beams, otherwise the heat-insulating filling may move. In order to avoid flaws in the measurement, a triangular-shaped material laying option is used, which provides convenient diagonal alignment.
According to the letter of the law for the regions of Russia, the thickness of the warm substrate is 20 cm Along the perimeter of the area, the insulation must be protected from dampness with a roofing membrane of 1 cm.
To ensure docking insulation overlapped.
Uniform distribution of material is controlled. Avoid creases and irregularities.
In the window area, insulation should be located perpendicular to the floor with a smooth slope transition.
In places of slopes, thermal insulation is laid in two steps: the layer is laid between the rafter bases with gaps, then the film is stretched with an overlap.

Some information before laying thermal insulation:

Before starting work, check floor joints for gaps. The discovered gaps are filled with lime mortar with tow. Frame structures should treat with an antiseptic and flame retardant. If ventilation products are not provided, you need to take care of this. They should be located along the perimeter of the walls, and provide high-quality air circulation.

We warm the attic floor on the beams

As a heater, take polystyrene and mineral wool. The use of this species as a filling implies parchment paper, which spreads over the surface.
We measure the distance between the beams. We cut strips of glassine relative to measurements, taking into account the fact that the extra 5 cm around the perimeter will be useful for flooring.
We distribute the pieces into the space between the beams. With the help of prepared rails 10 × 20 mm, we fasten glassine to the beam ends.
Before you start laying the foam, it should be cut to the width of the beams. We cut the material in order to fit snugly into the openings
After distributing the cut slabs, we examine the working area with mounting foam in hand, and fill in the empty slots.

From above we lay glassine again.

At this stage, it remains to lay mineral wool mats, which must necessarily reach the edges of the beams. It may take several approaches to reach the desired height.

If the mineral wool is laid in two sheets or more, the previous should be fixed so that the top layer can hide the joints of the first. This will provide extra centimeters of the perimeter, which literally refuel down like a closed pie.

Now it remains to lay the floor on the beams. Based on the information and advice of experts, you can, with the help of simple manipulations keep the heat in the house and provide thermal insulation not only to the ceiling, but also to its entire structural part. The result of your actions will be a dry and warm attic, uniform air circulation and durability of wooden structures. By spending today, you will save yourself from a major overhaul in the near future.

Video instruction

This video shows the technology of work using the example of Izospan insulation:

The attic floor separates the heated part of the building from the cold part. Choosing the right material and thickness of the insulator means reducing heat loss and saving material costs during the heating season. Let's talk about the insulation of the attic floor on wooden beams with your own hands.

Construction of a wooden attic floor

The load-bearing elements in the attic wooden floor are beams. They are made from coniferous wood. The size of the section of the beams is taken according to the calculation for the load that the element perceives. We told you about the correct calculation of wooden floor beams in the article "How to calculate wooden floor beams".

For each specific climatic conditions and depending on the ability of the material to resist heat transfer, according to the heat engineering calculation, its own value of the thickness of the heat insulator is obtained.

Scheme of insulation of the attic floor: 1 - log; 2 - cranial bars; 3 - board shield or boards; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 - counter-lattice for the ventilation gap; 6 - insulation; 7 - clean floor; 8 - ventilation gap

The black floor of wooden shields or boards is mounted on cranial bars. Next, a membrane-type vapor barrier is laid, a heater is laid on it, which is covered with another layer of the membrane.

If the attic is in use, a clean floor is laid on top. If not, then running boards (min. 40 mm thick) are laid on the beams. All wooden elements are antiseptic. To ventilate wooden structures, when laying a clean floor, a gap is left between it and the insulation.

The choice of material for insulation

Bulk materials

Expanded clay

It is possible to insulate attic floors with bulk materials, which include expanded clay. It has a relatively low weight (250-600 kg / m 3) and high resistance to heat transfer. Ease of installation and relative cheapness determine the choice of this material.

Vermiculite

Expanded vermiculite is obtained by heating the vermiculite rock to a temperature of 700 ° C, which at the same time increases in volume by 25 times. Its thermal conductivity is from 0.13 W / m K, and the volumetric weight is up to 200 kg / m 3.

Perlite

Expanded perlite also belongs to loose heat-insulating materials. The perlite rock is crushed and fired to obtain a porous structure. Expanded perlite is environmentally safe, non-flammable and bioresistant, has high thermal insulation properties (0.052 W/m K). Its volumetric weight is 160-250 kg/m 3 .

piece materials

Piece insulating materials are produced in the form of: sheets, rolls, plates, mounting shells and segments. To insulate the attic floor, slabs and rolls are most often used. At the same time, a roll-type insulation is preferable, since it does not leave butt joints, which slightly worsen the resistance to heat transfer.

Basalt wool

Mineral wool slabs and rolls of basalt fibers are the most popular heat-insulating material in housing construction. It is made from crushed and melted basalt by blowing. Basalt wool has a low thermal conductivity (0.32-0.048 W / m K), low volumetric weight. This material is bioresistant, environmentally friendly and relatively inexpensive.

glass wool

Glass wool in its characteristics is very close to mineral wool. It is also obtained by melting the source material, which in this case is cullet. Glass wool has longer threads, greater chemical resistance and strength, lower cost than mineral wool.

It is produced in the form of plates, mats, rolls, reinforced and with a reflective layer. The volumetric weight of glass wool is from 25 to 200 kg / m 3, heat absorption - 0.035-0.045 W / m K. The disadvantage of fiberglass is the need for personal protection during installation.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) also belongs to plate heaters. This is a cheap, lightweight, moisture-resistant material with good thermal insulation properties. In private housing construction, it is often abandoned due to rodent damage and low resistance to high temperatures.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) has good insulation properties, is less flammable than simple polystyrene foam, but releases toxic substances when burned.

polyurethane foam

Plate polyurethane foam (foam rubber) has a high resistance to heat transfer (0.029-0.041 W / m K) and low volumetric weight (30-80 kg / m 3). Rigid types of this material are used in construction. The sprayed polyurethane foam creates a continuous insulation of the surface, both thermally and hydro. It is also resistant to temperature extremes and durable in operation (up to 20 years).

Foam glass

Foam glass is a type of glass that has a cellular structure. It has low thermal conductivity (0.04-0.08 W / m K), water resistance, high strength and fire safety. The percentage of foam glass porosity reaches 80-95%. The volumetric weight varies from 100-200 kg/m 3 .

Peat slabs

Peat slabs belong to organic heat-insulating materials. They are made from young sphagnum moss using a wet and dry method. Under the influence of temperature, the peat fibers stick together. Peat slabs are divided into ordinary and moisture resistant. Their volumetric weight is 170-300 kg / m 3, the thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.05-0.07 W / m K.

Fiberboard

Fiberboards are made from wood fiber, which is first mineralized and then mixed in the required proportion (cement - water). Heat-insulating boards have a lower volumetric weight (300-350 kg/m 3) and thermal conductivity (0.085-0.95 W/m K) than a structural fiberboard.

It is quite affordable to make a fibrolite mixture yourself and lay it directly in place. It is possible to preliminarily, using a special technology in the formwork, make slabs of the desired size out of it, and then mount them on the ceiling.

reeds

As a heat-insulating material, reeds are also used, which is practically the cheapest. It is made from pressed reed stalks sewn together with steel wire.

The volumetric weight of reed is 175-250 kg / m 3, the heat absorption coefficient is 0.05-0.08 W / m K. Its disadvantages are low fire resistance and biostability, high water absorption and damage by rodents.

Ecowool

Ecowool (cellulose wool) refers to environmentally friendly heat-insulating materials. It is made from recycled cellulose raw materials with the addition of antiseptics and flame retardants. Most often they are boric acid and borax.

In stores, it can be found packed in plastic bags. When laying, ecowool is loosened and then laid out at the place of insulation. In fact, the density of the insulation should be at least 35 kg / m 3 for overlapping, which is quite difficult to determine “by eye”.

This heat-insulating material has good thermal conductivity - 0.037-0.042 W / m K, low volumetric weight (28-63 kg / m 3), moderately flammable and bio-resistant. Ecowool can prevent about 20% of humidity from passing into the inner layers, while maintaining its thermal insulation properties.

Cork slabs for thermal insulation have been used for a long time. They are made from shredded cork waste by mixing with glue or heat treatment. Pressed plates in special forms are dried at a temperature of 80 °C.

The volumetric weight of cork insulation is small and amounts to 150-250 kg / m 3, the thermal insulation index is high (0.04-0.08 W / m K). The advantages of this insulator include:

biostability;
low water absorption;
low volumetric weight;
relatively high strength as a heat-insulating material;
fire resistance (smolders slowly);
not attacked by rodents.

Features of laying thermal insulation on a wooden floor

Insulation made of mineral and glass wool is laid with mandatory vapor barrier. Absorbing water, the insulation loses its thermal properties, so careful protection against moisture is needed. The vapor barrier films are laid with an overlap of 100 mm.

A heat insulator with a reflective coating reduces the heat loss of the ceiling. It is laid down with foil. The use of penofol is justified only in baths and saunas.

If the thickness of the heat-insulating material is greater than the height of the floor beams, it is necessary to lay additional rails to create an air gap. Multilayer thermal insulation is arranged with overlapping butt joints.

The dimensions of rigid heat-insulating plates are adjusted with great care so that the gaps do not increase the thermal conductivity of the floor. Otherwise, the installation of this type of insulation does not differ from the installation of thermal insulation from mineral wool boards.

Bulk heat insulators are evenly distributed over the entire space between the beams, observing the required (calculated) layer thickness. Since almost all of them absorb moisture, such an insulator is protected from moisture by a membrane film from above and below.

The choice of material for thermal insulation of the attic floor is determined by the following criteria:

Material costs, including shipping costs.
Local availability of material.
Ease of installation.
Health safety.
Fire safety.

It is possible to reduce the stress of the building structure by choosing a heater with a lower volumetric weight and a low heat absorption index.