How to attach steps to an iron ladder. Fastening wooden steps to a concrete staircase - a beautiful decor is guaranteed! Fastening the steps of a wooden staircase to the bowstring

The manufacture of bowstrings for stairs is a complex process, since with large dimensions of the structure it requires high accuracy. Often, these load-bearing elements, which are the basis for fastening the steps, have a complex configuration, therefore, in carpentry workshops for cutting parts, they most often work on modern CNC machines.

Wooden stairs on bowstrings are durable and are worthy decoration space at home. They can be performed in classical style and become a good addition to the loft interior.

How to make a staircase on bowstrings, how to attach steps and balusters to it, is described in detail in this article.

Ways to make a ladder on bowstrings with your own hands

There are several ways to install stairs on bowstrings. The most popular are free and wall-mounted stair bowstrings. The wall bowstring for the stairs can be seen only from one side of the stairs, and the free bowstring, otherwise called the light string, can be seen from all sides.

It is these properties that must be taken into account before making a ladder on a bowstring with your own hands and opting for any particular type of wood, as well as when processing the surface of wooden blanks.

The assembly of the stairs on bowstrings differs from the assembly of the structure on stringers by the method of fastening. The steps of such stairs are inserted into the grooves of the supporting beams, which are called bowstrings. Sometimes only one bowstring is used in the design. In this case, the installation of the second side of the steps is carried out in the wall.

Ladders on bowstrings can be open and closed. Open staircases look lighter, and when creating closed structures, risers are used, thanks to which the staircase visually seems massive.

The most convenient and simple to create are stairs on bowstrings with a straight march, in which the steps are fastened between two straight beams - bowstrings. Such stairs can be single-flight and double-flight - depending on the size and design of the room. In addition, bowstring structures can be designed with an intermediate platform or winder steps. Form landings(rectangular, square or rounded) directly depends on the chosen design of the structure.

One of the requirements for mounting a ladder on a bowstring is the availability of free space. This factor, as well as the distance between the floors, determines the design. Depending on this, the type of fences will be selected.

One of the simplest designs of stairs made of wood on bowstrings, as well as stairs on stringers, which is suitable for beginners, is considered to be attached (one-march straight). Tilt angle flight of stairs will depend on the amount of free space for the structure and on the height of the floor.

If there is not enough space, then it is recommended to build a two-flight straight staircase with winders or an intermediate platform. Thanks to this, you can save useful floor space. In addition, this ladder is very convenient to use.

Do-it-yourself ladders on bowstrings can be made with risers, although the latter are rarely used in this type of structure. Due to the absence of these elements, the stairs look lighter and not as massive.

As for the decor, in the stairs to the second floor, mounted on bowstrings, the supporting beams, as well as the stringers, may well act as decorative elements.

If desired, they can be decorated, for example, using artistic wood carving. good decoration is forging metal, which is attached to a bowstring made of wood.

Railings play an important role in the design concept of the flight of stairs. They can be made of wood or wood with forging elements, stainless steel. Railings are usually light, so the stairs look even more "transparent".

One more hallmark The design of stairs on bowstrings is the ability to place balusters in any order and at any frequency, which is problematic to do in stairs on stringers, in which the order is more limited.

Handmade wooden stairs with bowstrings are distinguished by reliability and ease of use. They are safe and durable, because, despite the apparent lightness, they are able to withstand significant loads.

The basic principles of building a ladder structure on bowstrings do not differ from building a ladder on stringers. Openings, supporting bowstrings on the lower and upper beams are built according to the same principles as when installing stairs on stringers.

The main difference lies in the way the steps are supported. In the stairs on the stringers, the steps rest on the boards from above, and in the stairs on the bowstrings, the steps are located between the boards (strings). When a step is subjected to a vertical load, the tread flexes downward and then straightens out. At the same time, a thrust is formed at its ends. To prevent the bowstrings from spreading to the sides, it is recommended to connect them with a metal bar with a diameter of 8-12 mm with threads at the ends and nuts. You can also use strands of other designs.

One of the common designs is a staircase with mortise steps. When erecting it, cutouts are made in the bowstring - grooves 15-20 mm deep, into which treads and risers will be inserted. For a snug fit, the tread grooves of the bowstring should be with even planes and the same depth.

Watch the video "Ladder on bowstrings", which shows the various ways to install such structures:

How to properly mark and secure the bowstring of the stairs

In order to prevent distortion of the structure, special attention should be paid to the accuracy of marking the grooves. Before marking the string of the stairs, prepare a template that is almost the same as the template for stringers made from a sheet of plywood. The only difference is that the wooden planks in this case must be nailed, keeping an indent of 50 mm. Otherwise, the bowstring will be cut to the very edge of the board, and it will thus become a stringer. The offset can be 40, 30 or 20 mm. In the process of marking, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the bowstrings are not the same elements, but are a mirror image of each other.

The correct marking of treads and risers is carried out by moving the template along the edge of the bowstring. To do this, a reference line is applied along the long edge of the bowstring at a distance of 50 mm from the edge of the board (or at a selected distance). When moving the template along the bowstring, a line of steps is marked with a pencil, the tops of which should lie on the reference line of the bowstring. At the ends of the bowstring, the extended tread marking line will correspond to the floor level, and on the other hand, the perpendicular to the top of the riser line will correspond to the floor level of the second floor or intermediate floor. These ends are sometimes advised to cut off immediately, but still it is better to try on the bowstring in place. It is likely that the ends of the bowstrings will be used for tapping into the ceiling. Grooves for treads can be made independently using hand tool, but it is advisable to use a manual milling machine.

Regardless of the material of manufacture of the bowstring (solid board or modified wood), the grooves for the steps must be selected obliquely to the direction of the fibers. To perform a high-quality groove, it is recommended to use a power tool and mill the bowstrings using a plywood stencil.

And how to fix the bowstring of the stairs, which, for example, consists of 18 lifts without intermediate platforms for attaching treads? To do this, use 3-4 tension bolts passing through both bowstrings. Directly into the tread, the installation of their shortened versions takes place.

The use of tension bolts in the tread is a task for professionals, but if all the rules are observed, even a beginner can handle it.

Making a stencil for marking the bowstring of the stairs

When making a stencil for marking the bowstring of a ladder, two bars should be nailed to a rectangular piece of plywood parallel to the edges of the bowstring so that the distance between them is equal to the width of the bowstring. Next, the stencil must be placed on the bowstring and draw a reference line on it. Then you should remove the slats from the step template and place it on the stencil for the grooves so that the reference lines coincide. It is necessary to draw lines that will correspond to the sides of the step. The tread should be placed on the stencil to the tread line and circled around it. If necessary, you can expand the hole by a distance equal to the gap between the cutter and the round flange of the milling machine.

To tread with a drill and a jigsaw, you need to make an enlarged hole in the stencil. The bowstring should be put on the goats and a stencil should be installed on it. Then the line of the first tread must be aligned with the tread line of the stencil and temporarily nail the stencil to the bowstring. After that, you should go through the bowstring with a cutter to a depth of 15-20 mm in several passes. When the work is finished, it is recommended to process the corners of the grooves with a chisel.

Immediately before assembling the stairs on the bowstrings, the end of the step and the groove should be smeared with glue. There are many types of adhesives for wood surfaces. IN this case almost anyone will do, the main thing is to carefully read the instructions before using it.

When mounting the connection on wedges, the grooves of the bowstring should be expanded with a slope towards the back so that they acquire a trapezoidal shape.

Installation of stairs: ways to fasten the steps to the bowstring

The tread, inserted into the grooves, is to be wedged from below with wooden wedges, which press it against the upper side of the recess. To increase the strength of the connection, the tread must be additionally attached to the bowstring with screws, which are attached with outer side.

The heads of the screws must be sunk into the wood of the bowstring and puttied. You can also drive screws deep into wood mass, seal the holes with wooden plugs and grind. There are other ways of attaching steps to bowstrings. So, for example, treads are attached to them using bars of square and triangular cross-section, using surfboards, or using steel fasteners. In such cases, the bowstrings of the stairs must be made of planed boards, be smooth, without grooves. Short bars or surfs are usually attached to them from the inside with screws, and the steps are mounted directly to them.

Fastening in a wooden staircase on the bowstrings of the tread and riser between themselves can be done in several ways, similar to the fastening of stairs along stringers.

The next section of the article is devoted to how to attach balusters to the bowstring of the stairs.

Proper fastening of balusters to the bowstring of a wooden staircase to the second floor

When arranging stair turns on bowstrings that do not have interfloor platforms, you can use a central support post or dock the bowstring on the railing balusters. Plug-in swivel fittings are also permitted.

Proper joining of the stair bowstrings on the balusters not only provides a strong and reliable connection, but is also a beautiful and elegant building solution.

When attaching the balusters to the bowstring of the stairs, the stresses that usually appear on the load-bearing structural elements (in the lower part of the stairs) are transferred to the railings (in the upper part of the structure).

Thus, the whole structure works on the load when using the stairs; bowstrings, balusters and fencing. A single rigid spatial system is formed.

The articulation of bowstrings on swivel fittings is technically more complex. It allows you not to limit the design of stairs to one type of railing. By itself, this knot is a truncated likeness of a joint on balusters, without an upper power belt. The swivel baluster, on which the bowstring was joined, is here replaced with short pieces of bowstrings. But the requirements for such nodes are increased: especially for the quality of the tie-ins and bowstring material.

Double-flight staircase on bowstrings: assembly and installation of the structure

Strengthening the bowstrings of two-flight stairs can be done in a similar way. It is necessary to fix the central support baluster on the landing beam, into which the internal bowstrings of the ascending and descending marches will be inserted.

Also, bowstrings can be bolted to its side faces. And the wall bowstrings should then be nailed to the wall.

The second option is the fastening of two racks of reduced section to the platform beam. In one of them you need to cut the bowstring of the ascending march with a spike, and in the other - the bowstring of the descending march.

Most often, modified wood (glued boards) is used to create bowstrings, and all tie-ins are made using glue.

It must be borne in mind that the nodes of the stairs on wooden joints can lead to creaking and gradual loosening of the nodes. Therefore, if the master does not have sufficient experience in carpentry work, it is recommended to use metal ties to connect the bowstrings, which are able to fix the joints for the entire life of the structure.

A ladder on bowstrings is a type of construction that involves the installation of treads into the grooves of the bowstring to a depth of 20-25 mm. The cutting of these grooves is usually done by gouging, cutting or using a milling cutter.

There are the following types of steps:

• mortise,
• inserted into grooves;
• inserted into through grooves, pre-hollowed out in a bowstring. They can be with or without risers.

The connection of the bowstring and steps occurs with the help of tension bolts. Also can be used threaded studs with a diameter of 10-14 mm. As a general rule, the tension screws should be located in the middle of the string, just below the tread.

When installing a curved ladder, the tension bolts, which are located on the line of its bend, should also be bent. Thus, they will be parallel to the front edge of the tread. In this case, the bolt nut will be perpendicular to the bowstring of the ladder. As a result, the nut will cut into the stair string, and the hole on the other string can be masked with a decorative insert.

The video "Making ladders on bowstrings" will help you better cope with this task:

Frame stairs are becoming more and more in demand and popularity. Undoubtedly, this is due to the fact that in addition to strength and durability, they can be made in countless different shapes and designs. This article will be of interest to those who set out to make not just a typical staircase, but a real highlight of their home.

Choosing wooden stairs on a metal frame, you make a choice in favor of practicality, reliability and modernity. A huge advantage of the frame technology is its adaptive properties, first you can make the frame of the stairs with your own hands with the expectation that it will fit into the overall design idea of ​​the room, or you can build a draft version of the frame, and later, cover it with a suitable material.

The combination of metal with wood is one of the most successful design solutions regarding the interior. Due to the successful combination of beauty and strength, wood and / or metal structures are popular with builders and owners. country cottages. This is one of the rare moments when builders and owners, relying on their tastes and preferences, clearly agree on one thing, the choice of wooden stairs on a metal frame.

A metal staircase with a wooden finish will create an original atmosphere in the house and an interior in a classic or old style. The possibility of decorating with forged and wooden elements is a real work of art that will give any room a true noble and respectable look.

Graceful metal staircase, decorated with wooden steps, has the appearance of a swift and light, while remaining reliable and durable construction able to withstand significant loads over many years of operation. Metal is the strength, durability of the stairs, and steps made of wood are comfort and style. The metal ladder and wooden steps guarantee the convenience of descending and / or ascending for all members of your family, including the elderly, children and pets.

We make the calculation of the metal frame of the stairs

Wooden stairs on a metal base are made of light or durable grades of metal, an important indicator of which is corrosion resistance. The technology for building wooden stairs with a metal frame involves partial or complete sheathing of visible metal surfaces tree.

Having set a goal to independently design and build a staircase, it is important, first of all, to perform an accurate calculation of the metal frame of the staircase, so that unpleasant moments do not arise in the future.

The main indicator from which all calculations of the ladder frame are based is based on the width of the human step.

On average, this figure is 57-64 centimeters. Based on the above indicated indicator, the ratio of the step and the riser is determined.

• S is the width of the step,
• P is the riser height.

The formula will be:

In addition, it is necessary to calculate the formula for the ease of use of stairs:

As well as the formula for the safety condition:

All quantities cannot be taken into account separately from each other, it is important to grow, taking into account all design parameters, and for this it is necessary to make a clear analysis of the initial data.

Sheathing the metal frame of the stairs with a tree with your own hands

The most popular way to finish at minimal cost is installation wooden steps to the frame of the metal staircase. And the remaining visible parts of the structure are simply painted in a suitable color, as a result, the metal staircase looks quite harmonious and natural.

If we talk about the complete sheathing of the metal frame of the stairs with wood, then the process includes finishing:

• understair space,
• steps,
• risers,
• imitation of a wooden string.

After such a "disguise", the metal frame becomes invisible, and the staircase is visually indistinguishable from the wooden one.

For the design of exclusive stairs, precious wood is used:

The above tree species have high aesthetic and operational properties.

The hardness of oak wood is several times higher than the hardness of pine wood, and is compared with the hardness of metal alloys. The natural material unique and resistant to mechanical damage and wear. When choosing oak, the service life of the steps is equal to the resource of the frame itself.

Do-it-yourself installation of the metal frame of the stairs

As for installation and operation, wooden stairs on a metal frame are practically unpretentious. There are several options for installing them. If the owner decided to independently install the metal frame of the stairs in the house, he should take a closer look at the structures from prefabricated and prefabricated modules.

They have the appearance of a designer, and are represented by separate parts that are easily assembled into flights of stairs, connecting to each other in accordance with the attached instructions. These modules are manufactured industrial equipment according to the established state standards for wooden and metal structures of stairs. It is important to remember that such ladders require frequent maintenance and special maintenance to eliminate the occurrence of possible backlashes, tightening connections.

All stair structures are subject to periodic inspection and testing to ensure their safe operation.

Fastening wooden steps to a metal frame.

Basic moments:

• In each step of the metal frame, a mark is made for two mounting holes, every 15-20 cm, we retreat from the edge of the tread by no less than 2 cm.
• If the steps are fastened to the frame with ordinary self-tapping screws, then the holes in the metal frame are drilled into the "tip".
• To compensate for stresses when tightening parts, fasteners with washers are used.

Even the highest quality metal frame can have slight height differences between the parts. In order for the wooden linings to adhere qualitatively to the surface, a substrate is laid on it. For fixing, which is used with ordinary mounting adhesive with a filler effect. It fills voids and forms a durable layer that is resistant to crushing.

The use of mounting foam in this option is absolutely excluded, the dried foam is capable of wrinkling, which leads to corrosion, loosening and creaking of the steps. The most reliable and popular material for the substrate is plywood.

Summing up, it is worth saying that a wooden staircase with a metal frame with one's own hands is perfect combination important points: the durability of the metal structure and the aesthetics of the wooden staircase. No other material has such warmth and attractiveness as wood. In addition to the aesthetic appeal, a wooden staircase pleasantly surprises with the availability of the financial side. You will not find materials cheaper and more reliable.

This article will show you how to attach the steps to the metal frame of your staircase under construction in various combinations. fixing materials and general design, i.e. for stairs on bowstrings or stringers.

To begin with, it is worth deciding which steps will have to be fixed. In most cases, the material for the manufacture of steps is wood and for self-assembly stairs, it is it that is the main one, although companies specializing in stair production and installation make steps from glass, stone, and various polymers.

Technologically, fastening is reduced to the choice of the method of fixing the step plate on a rigid or slightly movable metal frame. If the structure uses powerful stringers (under flights of stairs) or bowstrings (from the sides of the flight of stairs), then the step is less subject to dynamic loads (except for the bending of the step itself under the weight of a person), and with lighter structures, for example, stairs on welded stringers made of profile pipe, dynamic loads are greater. It is precisely because of the mobility of the ladder elements that glue is not used in these connections, except in cases of mounting on a solid monolithic surface.

Steps can be attached:
1. furniture bolts;
2. self-tapping screws;
3. futorka;
4. Fisher fasteners.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with furniture bolts

Fastening steps with furniture bolts

The easiest and most reliable way to install treads to the base. In this case, the step is drilled through with a drill with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt body and the base (corner shelf or stringer body). The wide head of the furniture bolt (anodized, galvanized or painted) hides minor defects when drilling, and its profiled part under the head fixes it from turning when tightening. During installation, the nut must not be tightened more than allowed, because.

the metal head of the bolt will simply push through the solid wood.

The disadvantages of this method include the presence of a bolt head on the step surface, especially if fastening is carried out according to an asymmetric pattern and the need to access the riser space to tighten the nut, which is not always possible. P.s. Sometimes in these cases, bolts with an ordinary head and a wide washer can be used, but when a thread is cut in the base (kosour or corner), a threaded sleeve (nut) is welded in and a hole is made in the surface of the step with a diameter sufficient to use the key head of the desired size. For this option, you can pre-select flat plastic furniture plugs of the required diameter and color.

Advantages: convenience, simplicity, reliability and fastening speed; availability of quick disassembly if necessary (restoration, dismantling, replacement of treads).

Fastening steps to a metal frame with self-tapping screws

Fastening steps with self-tapping screws

The installation of steps with self-tapping screws is good because all the fastening elements are in the riser and the outer decorative trim while not suffering.

It is advisable to use powerful self-tapping screws with a deep cross-shaped or hexagonal groove for fasteners in order to prevent the groove from licking when tightened.

Now roofing screws are often used for fastening steps, which have a hexagonal head and a tip in the form of a drill. It is worth paying attention to the fact that such self-tapping screws are produced for wood and metal and differ in the diameter of the drill (thinner for wood).

How to fasten wooden steps to a metal stringer?

If the installation is carried out through the wall of the profile pipe of the metal frame, then there is a natural desire to use roofing screws for metal and immediately pierce the metal and wood of the steps, but it should be understood that for a wood screw, the drill diameter is much smaller than the diameter of the turns, which provides a good screw engagement area in an array of boards, unlike a self-tapping screw for metal.

Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are convenient to use in the case of a visible lower surface of the stairs. At the same time, in metal structures, sweat is immediately made under a cone-shaped hat. It is worth noting that if the steps are not made of pine (relatively soft wood), but of larch, beech, ash or oak, then in order to screw in a self-tapping screw with a diameter of 5-6 mm, it will be necessary to make preliminary holes in the steps with a diameter of 3-4 mm (according to the diameter of the main body self-tapping screw - where there is no thread), otherwise the self-tapping screw will not be completely screwed in.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with a futorka

Futorka for fixing steps

Let's make it clear right away that a futorka is a metal sleeve with internal and external threads. This method of fastening the steps can be attributed to the optimal in terms of stealth of mounting elements and ease of installation, dismantling of treads, but at the same time it can only be used for dense wood species, it is rather laborious, it requires stationary preparation and strict compliance with the drawings, because You can't fix anything on the spot. In addition, the steps can be fastened with a futor to the metal frame both from below (on the corner shelf or kosour), and from the side to the end (string). It is this method or its analogue that is used in modern staircase construction by large firms, for example, the German company KENNGOT. They have construction ladders with wood, acrylic, stone treads and threaded bushings for field assembly.

Technologically, a futorka is taken with an external thread diameter of about 20-22 mm and an internal thread of 8-10 mm (on the forums they write about using a conventional stud with an M20 thread in which a hole is drilled and a thread is cut), in a step with a cutter (the cutter does not have a large cone-shaped part ) a hole of the required depth is made and a thread is cut. Such a large diameter is justified by the need for a sufficient depth of thread grooves in wood for a reliable connection of parts. Using glue (for example, Kleiberit Supratac), the futorka is screwed into solid wood. Now the steps can simply be screwed (more than once) to them with an ordinary bolt or a stud with a decorative cap nut.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with Fisher fasteners

Fixing a step to a corrugated pipe (Fisher)

Enough new way fasteners based on the use of a Fisher polymer fastener, on one side of which there is a large-diameter bushing with a hole in the center and conical notches that work like a herringbone (it easily clogs into the hole, but resists exit), and on the other hand, a bushing that opens when screwing into the screw.

Before installation, cores from the kit are placed in the holes on the metal frame, the steps fall into place and the marks are pressed through. The steps are rolling. Then the Fisher mounts are installed in their nests, unfastened with self-tapping screws and a step is placed on them. Unfortunately, there was no personal experience of using such fasteners for stairs, so it is still difficult to say how this fastener behaves, but it is obvious that dismantling the step in this case will most likely smooth out the polymer slots and they will need to be replaced. In addition, it is hard to believe that a plastic sleeve will stay in a wooden nest for the entire life of the ladder. Most likely, under the influence of vibrations and distorting loads, the steps will loosen these fasteners. Perhaps they can be strengthened using glue.

What should I pay attention to when choosing a step mounting option?

The choice of mounting option should be made at the stage of development of the stairs.

When designing a metal frame, it is determined whether the lower part of the stairs will be open, whether there will be access from the bottom of the steps, whether mounting elements will be painted or painted, and whether it is important that there are no elements (bolt heads or furniture plugs) on the step surface.

When building a staircase with your own hands, a structure of channels (stringers) and a corner (steps, bundles) is often welded. This option is easier to sew from below with decorative material. Drill the corners under the steps from above, and then twist from below with roofing screws.

For option modern stairs on kosours from a profile pipe, repeating the shape of a staircase, long M8-10 furniture bolts can be used, piercing through a step and a kosour, with a decorative galvanized nut from below. It is possible to order steps with footings, but must be 100% sure of the dimensions. Also for the version with self-tapping screws, you can profile pipe the stringer can be drilled from above a little more than the diameter of the self-tapping screw, and from below with a diameter of 12-13, where furniture plugs can then be installed. A self-tapping screw (with a body with a diameter of 5-6 mm) is screwed in from below with a magnetized screwdriver or a screwdriver with a flexible nozzle. A screwdriver, as a rule, stretches screws better.

In any case, you need to try to design the stairs so that the step lies on the shelf of the corner, channel or professional pipe and is attracted to them by the fastening, and does not hang on the point fasteners. Over time, any fastening weakens, especially in a tree, and therefore, after the construction of a staircase, many serious companies recommend re-stretching the entire structure after a year or two.

Staircase on a metal frame. Soundproofing experience

22/06/2009 22:19:58

The designs of stairs are different and, depending on the materials used, they are most often divided into wooden, metal and concrete (stone). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. When designing a staircase, it is necessary, first of all, to consider such properties as price, aesthetic side (beauty), load on structures, practicality (wear resistance, noise generated when walking, etc.). In this article, I will not consider design features stair design, such as angle of inclination, riser height and tread width, etc. There are many books and materials on the Internet on this subject. Suppose the conditions allow us to mount a comfortable staircase that meets all the requirements of the "convenience and safety formulas." What material to choose?

Traditionally, wood is used for the construction of stairs. Wood is a warm material, has a beautiful appearance, it is pleasant to walk on it. A ladder made of wood is quite light, which means it does not create an excessive load on the supporting structures. However, the tree also has disadvantages. First of all, it is a creak and noise when walking. Of course, a staircase made of precious wood, made according to all standards, as a rule, does not dry out and does not creak, but it is very expensive. Inexpensive stairs are most often made of pine and spruce (often not dried enough), which means that over time such a staircase will lose its initial geometric parameters and begin to creak. In addition, pine and spruce are soft rocks and are subject to mechanical damage. Birch, oak, beech and more expensive wood species are much more resistant to mechanical stress, but are two, three or more times more expensive than coniferous species.

Concrete stairs are often used in houses. Sometimes they buy factory flights of stairs, but more often they make a metal frame, arrange formwork and pour concrete right on the spot. Structurally, concrete stairs can be anything, if you correctly calculate the load, reinforcement and grade of concrete. Concrete stairs are the quietest when walking, but very heavy. It is impossible to rely on massive concrete stairs simply on floor slabs. The support of concrete stairs must be provided by load-bearing structures. In addition, concrete stairs require additional cladding. As a cladding, ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware are most often used, but also natural stone and wood.

Another type of stairs - metal. More precisely, purely metal stairs in houses are rarely used. Most often we are talking about stairs on a metal frame. Stringers or bowstrings are made from channels (12-18), and the bases for steps are made from a corner (most often the 40th), which is welded to the channels. Steps for such stairs are made of wood or metal. The advantages of metal stairs are many. First, it's fairly light weight. Such stairs can be supported on floor slabs. Secondly, metal stairs are strong enough and can withstand heavy loads. Thirdly, they do not lose their properties over time. The disadvantages are rather inherent not in the metal frame itself, but in the lining. The steps made of their pines on a metal frame also begin to creak over time. To minimize this process, the steps to the metal frame are not attached directly, but through plywood. Plywood 10-12 mm thick is attached to the metal frame on bolts with a countersunk head, and wooden steps with a thickness of at least 40 mm are glued to the plywood with liquid nails. Thus, plywood performs several functions at once - it acts as a reinforcement that takes on the load, distributes the load, and also hides the supporting fasteners. The metal frame is also good because the steps can be replaced over time (for example, pine with African mahogany) without any difficulties. However, it is worth mentioning the most important disadvantages of stairs on a metal frame - noise. Steps on such a ladder will be heard by all households, even if a cat is walking up the stairs.

The higher the weight wooden cladding, the less the metal frame knocks. Thus, in order to soundproof a metal structure, it must be loaded with something. Steps, risers, balusters, poles, railings. All this is understandable. Can anything else be done? I also asked the same question. The name of the car soundproofing experience, I decided to apply my knowledge in the field of construction. When it comes to soundproofing a metal structure, metal vibration isolation technology is usually used, damping vibrations created in the metal. After all, any sound is a process of vibrations and friction. In order to isolate the stairs from vibration, I decided to use the materials I tested from the StandardPlast company. Before that, I worked with such materials as Vibroplast, Vizomat, Vizomat MP. But the company introduced new material under the brand name Bimast. I decided to use the most expensive material, Bimast Bomb, 4 mm thick, which, according to the manufacturer, fights vibroacoustic noise better than other materials. But I actually chose this material only for the simple reason that it is the heaviest in the StandardPlast line of materials. In addition, Bimast does not require additional heating and cuts well.

Bimast Bomb consists of two layers - elastic bituminous mastic and heavy bituminous material. This is clearly visible in the photograph. Considering the material, I got the impression that Bimast Bomb is Vibroplast and Vizomat MP glued together, which is probably not entirely true.

To begin with, I decided to paste over the kosour - channel from the inside. To do this, I carefully washed the channel from rust and degreased it with white spirit. The material cuts really well. For order, I warmed the mastic a little with an ordinary household hair dryer and began to glue it. When I pasted over almost the entire channel, I began to compare (by tapping) the sound of the processed channel and the unprocessed one.

The result, of course, was, but minimal. The Bimast Bomb didn't noticeably reduce footstep noise, although there was a slight reduction in vibration levels with light tapping. The thing is that the weight of the material in relation to the eighteenth channel was insignificant. Only one sheet of Bimast Bomb weighing a couple of kilograms left for a 3.5-meter long channel. This amount was not enough to effectively dampen a thick channel. In addition, the lion's share of the noise was created by the corners, and not by the channel bar itself.

Or maybe the material is bad? When I had a roll of Uniflex material left from the waterproofing of the foundation, I put it on the soundproofing of metal window sills. The ebbs pounded during the rain like empty cans, and when I pasted the ebbs on the inside with Uniflex heavy bituminous material, and also planted the ebbs on mounting foam, I realized what silence is in the house. Even during a heavy downpour, I saw only water on the glass, but did not hear the noise of falling drops. The Uniflex material also had a thickness of 4 mm, but its weight was somewhat larger.

In principle, it is not necessary to buy expensive branded materials for soundproofing. Any heavy bituminous materials are suitable for vibration isolation, because vibrations are damped mainly by weight. So, Uniflex is in no way inferior to Bimast Bomb in terms of efficiency, however, it is worth noting that waterproofing material no adhesive layer. It won't just stick to metal. It needs to be melted down! It is desirable to prime the surface with a bituminous primer. I welded the material of the usual gas burner Kovea.

In all photographs, the staircase is without cladding, with temporary steps.

From experience I can say that on horizontal and vertical surfaces such vibration isolation keeps more or less, but when the material is glued to the metal from below, it usually falls off within six months or a year. 😉

Bimast Bomb or Vizomat MP?

I did another experiment. The second channel of the flight of stairs was processed with the familiar material Vizomat MP 2.7 mm thick. Vizomat MP without measurements is visually really thinner than Bimast "a, lighter and more rigid. It is more difficult to cut Vizomat MP with scissors. Vizomat MP must be warmed up well with a hair dryer. Vizomat MP is glued to metal worse. And the result turned out to be worse. The sound from hitting metal of different intensity is muffled on the channel that is treated with Bimast Bomb As a result, Bimast Bomb is really the best material in the StandardPlast product line, although it is 25% more expensive at retail.

Thus, I would like to conclude my research. The cost of soundproofing channels acting as stringers is not comparable with the result.

However, the work is not finished yet. You need to find out if it makes sense to paste over the corners that act as a frame for steps and risers. After all, it is they who create the lion's share of the noise.

And some more theory

Just in case, for those who are interested, I will indicate several parameters for the competent calculation of the stairs.

• Riser - step height
• Tread - step width
• The optimal slope of the stairs is 30-35 degrees
• The slope of the stairs should not exceed 45 degrees
• Double riser height + step width must be between 57-65 cm
• The sum of the width and height in the optimal staircase should be 45-46 cm (ladder safety formula)
• The optimal step width is 28-30 cm (at least 25 cm)
• Riser height 14-17 cm (no more than 20 cm)
• The difference between the width and height of the step should be about 12 cm (ladder convenience formula)
• The height from the plane of the stairs to the ceiling must be at least 2 m.
• The number of steps in the staircase should be odd (from which foot we enter the stairs, we exit with this)

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2016-03-15 14:23:05 | Tatiana Borzova
Andrew, can I ask you a question? House blocks yutong 375, I already wrote that I confirm all your comments about this material, in an article about the shortcomings of this material and what the sellers are silent about. Metal frame ladder, how did you fix it? I have floors wooden lags. I want to put it on the main foundation, the design of the house allows me to make a wall in the wall and support 4 racks, a reversal landing, on the foundation.

2016-03-05 23:00:06 | Alexander
Ringing means playing. Additional boil some kerchief from the inside for rigidity. I have a similar design, well, a slightly different weld, but the idea is the same. If you remove the turning part of the stairs, the straight part Channel 12 wall 1 cm. Length 4.5 M. Step corner 5 wall thickness 5 mm. At the top, the ladder is welded to an I-beam. So despite the fact that there is only one metal around, nothing rattles. Achieve rigidity and there will be happiness.

2016-01-06 07:17:07 | SAU
I have a design of steps from corners like Andrei's, but there is no ringing or vibration when walking. A five is screwed on top of the corners with self-tapping screws from below, and on top of the five there is a carpet.

Most likely there is no ringing and vibration due to the fact that additional supports from a square profile are welded in the middle under the channels.

2014-06-01 15:23:23 | Andrey_K
Agree with Paladin! Such a design really contributes to good acoustics) However, as I think, a heavy channel contributes to it even more. I have been racking my brains over the stairs for a long time - to put them up soon. But I will make braids from thin metal profile, from the same from which the frame is made - it will be much easier. True, there are some nuances - I will also fasten them rigidly - to the frame. but I think to use rubber gaskets in the attachment points. Much will depend on the material of the steps - its acoustic properties, but I really want to make the steps and the span platform transparent. As for bitumen and bituminous materials - so much of this goodness surrounds us in real life that I tried to avoid their use inside the house. As vibro- and hydraulic decouplings (1 to 2), I used (as far as I know the only ones in Russia) materials from a plant in Nizhny (like) Novgorod (Abris). Their feature and advantage is that synthetic rubber is used as the main material. The materials are not cheap - the toad didn't just choke ...) But, in my humble opinion, and, as the British testify, "I'm not rich enough to buy cheap things" (Russian v-t "A miser pays twice"). So I had to be patient :)

2013-09-23 23:05:01 | Andrey_B
Eugene, do you always take everything literally or sometimes you try to understand?
1. The formula of convenience and 12 cm - this is not about the stairs as a whole, but about the steps.
2. You can call anything you like a riser. I personally don't mind. But take my word for it, not all stairs are made of wood. In simple words, the most common concrete staircase, as in the entrances. Where did the thickness of the material go, huh? And where is her riser?
3. The optimal slope is a subjective concept. I have 4 stairs at home. In my life I have no difficulties with either 20 degrees or 45 degrees. But from my point of view (supported, by the way, by theory), 30-35 degrees is the most convenient angle. If it seems to you that this is not so and your opinion is the only correct one, I see no reason to discuss it.

2013-09-23 18:53:21 | Eugene
"The difference between the width and height of the stairs should be about 12 cm (ladder convenience formula)" - how is it, I have a ladder 295 cm high and what should be its width according to your calculation ??? even scary to imagine!

You can buy a wooden staircase in two ways - buy ready-made or order by individual project, you can still make the product yourself. Many people, having spent a fairly large amount on a ladder, save on its assembly and try to mount the structure with their own hands.

Serious staircase manufacturers, who care about their reputation and the convenience of the client, customize all the details at the stage of rough assembly. Later, the stairs are dismantled, covered with various protective impregnations, painted, if provided, and reassembled. That's why self assembly such structures does not cause any particular difficulties, of course, if there are minimal skills and the right tools.

Since there are different types of ladder structures, the installation methods also differ. But there are rules that apply to all options:

• Number the parts if the manufacturer did not;
• Location doorways in relation to the interfloor area;
• According to the numbering, determine the assembly sequence;
• If the walls and floor are not too smooth, then level the surfaces;
• The first to put those elements, which will then be difficult to get close to;
• If the accuracy of the design is in doubt, then it is better to start the installation from above, then it is easier to adjust the length of the march.

They, in turn, are divided according to the type of mounting steps:

1. Console.

How to attach steps to a wooden staircase of this design:

• Using a profile, which is then closed with drywall or other material.
• Crash into the wall by 20-40 cm;
• With the help of a cable, it also replaces the handrails;
• On the bolts, which are attached to the wall by means of pins, steps are pulled together on the other edge;
• Attached to welded metal stringers.

On bowstrings

These are boards or beams that cover the ends of the steps. From an aesthetic point of view, such stairs look attractive. And in this case, it is immediately clear how to install balusters on a wooden staircase.

1. On kosoura

Very reliable, but labor-intensive fastening, also implies several types (embedded steps, on filly). Stringers are load-bearing beams on which the steps rest.

Before attaching the balusters, they are determined with their number and frequency of location. You can install:

• At every step;
• Missing one;
• Missing two;
• Missing three.

However, for safety, the distance between the elements is recommended to be about 20 cm. If the balusters are very thin and the tread is wide, then two parts can be mounted on one step. Such elements perform the function of decor and do not bear the load. Pillars are installed at the beginning and at the end of the march, if it is long, then in the middle.

Before fixing the balusters on a wooden staircase, markings are made. All elements must be on the same line, therefore, with different diameters of balusters and columns, their centers are marked at the attachment point. From the end of the steps lay the same distance, equal to 5-10 cm, this point will be the center of the hole for the baluster. The thicker it is, the more you need to step back from the edge, so that in the end the part is at a distance of 2-5 cm from it.

6 cm: 2 5 cm \u003d 8 cm - this is the desired value by which you need to retreat from the edge, it is also the center of the hole.

Types of fastening balusters:

• For self-tapping screws;
• On spikes;
• dowels;
• Hairpins.

How to fix a wooden ladder

First, the tools are prepared. Mainly:

• hacksaw;
• roulette;
• level;
• brushes;
• plane;
• pencil and other tools depending on the design (for example, a screwdriver).

Before starting the installation of the stairs, it is necessary to make a drawing and draw up an estimate, where the height and width are calculated, the shape of the steps and the method of their fastening are designed. But the design takes into account the space that should allow the placement of the stairs, the configuration of the structure and the height of the rise, as well as the aesthetic appearance.

Screw structures are rarely used even if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in a wooden house is very small. A small demand for this type of stairs is due to the fact that it is inconvenient to use, for example, for lifting or lowering massive things. It performs a single function - descent or ascent.

The marching staircase is installed quite often. Its appearance in a wooden house is a march, consisting of steps and platforms. In turn, they are single-march and multi-march. Using this type of model, using all your imagination, you can make stairs for any design.

Marching stairs are straight, they can be made with one march, and with two, which are separated by platforms. The disadvantage of these stairs is that they are very massive and in a small room their use is unreasonable.

They mainly use rotary double-flight stairs, as this design saves space. You can install marches with a curved design, which has a convenient angle of entry, where the steps are rotary. In the manufacture of multi-flight stairs, you can not use platforms, but make turning steps.

To select a suitable design, firstly, you need to choose the space in which the staircase will fit and will not create inconvenience when used. Secondly, you need to make measurements, calculations and draw a drawing with the location of all elements.

There are a lot of requirements and you need to take into account all of them, which in the end, when made with your own hands, will give an exemplary staircase.

Let's break them down in detail:

• The most important requirement is the choice of a suitable ratio "width-height of steps / step depth". The average, commonly used figure is in the range from 16 to 25 cm. If you underestimate the width of the step, then raise the board higher than it should be, the stairs will become steeper;
• Dimensions: width between 80 and 100 cm, width between 35 and 50 cm, riser height 15-20 cm;
• Steps must be either solid wood or glued wooden lamellas;
• The thickness of the riser is usually between 15 and 20 mm;
• Speaking of the winder, consider the recommended dimensions: length from 80 to 120 cm, width from 18 to 20 cm, thickness - 2 cm;
• The board must be perfectly dried and covered with an antiseptic, have hydrophobic protection, otherwise it will creak, as soon as it is saturated with water;
• Painting with varnish is a sure way to fall. You can stick a special anti-slip tape that will look unpresentable. To prevent falls, it is better to cover the board with: carpet, non-slip linoleum, polyurethane, rubber / rubber.

1. Console.

1. On kosoura

Balusters are railing supports that combine a decorative function with a practical one. For a wooden staircase, balusters can be made of a different material:

• Glass;
• metal;
• Polymer;
• stone;
• Combined (wood metal, glass metal).

Wooden balusters according to the manufacturing method are:

• With carved elements;
• Milling;
• Turned.

• flat;
• Cylindrical;
• Square.

For the manufacture of balusters, solid wood of various species is used, both elite expensive and inexpensive: beech and oak, cherry and walnut, mahogany and bamboo, as well as birch, pine, ash, larch and birch. The main condition is not to overdry it, as too dry wood is brittle and can crack during the assembly process. Too wet wood also cannot be used to make balusters, they can crack when shrinking.

Metal balusters are made from:

• stainless steel;
• Copper;
• cast iron;
• bronzes;
• different alloys.

According to the manufacturing method:

• cast;
• Forged;
• Gut;
• Welded.

What elements does the baluster consist of:

• In the middle is the central part, which is the main decoration;
• Above - support for the handrail;
• Below is the base.

The size of the balusters depends on the installation methods and varies from 70 cm to 1 m.

Forged and other types of metal balusters are mounted to the steps using fasteners supplied by the manufacturer. They also come with decorative overlays that mask the fasteners. At the base of the balusters there are holes through which they are fixed to the wooden elements with screws or self-tapping screws.

Spiral, mid-flight, half-turn or attached ladders are often poured from concrete. High quality steel reinforcement high marks concrete provide strength characteristics of the product. Thanks to reinforced concrete, the structure is not affected by the moisture content in the air, various atmospheric influences.

Many believe that pouring concrete is the most expensive process in arranging a flight of stairs. However, the use of wood trim is even more expensive. Allowed flaws in the technology of masonry cladding can increase costs. To avoid this, you should familiarize yourself with the main mistakes made when arranging sheathing materials on a concrete staircase:

1. Do not lay wood mass directly on the steps of the stairs. as this will shorten the life of the cladding.
2. Minimum Thickness wooden shields- 3 cm. It is not worth saving - this will reduce strength.
3. Before finishing cladding, the surface must be leveled and veneered without fail.
4. In order not to lose the aesthetics in the appearance of the stairs, the tree does not need to be painted.
5. Before sheathing the stairs with wood, it must be cleaned of dust and debris. This will increase the adhesion of the adhesive layer between the concrete and the finish.
6. To keep the plywood stronger, it is recommended to use not only glue, but also fixing dowels.
7. Don't skimp on varnish. It must be moisture resistant. You need at least three layers of varnish with drying between each ball.

Concrete spiral staircase finished with oak - a favorite finish.

Wooden stairs based on concrete must be durable and have an aesthetic appearance. The choice of wood material can be made according to grade, shade and economic considerations. Today, ordinary and exotic species are offered. The most common are four varieties. But others use it too:

1. Oak is considered a favorite. Features of the material: strength, interesting texture, pleasant shade and pattern, availability. Oak is chosen to provide a respectable look. Oak stairs will last a long time without losing their appearance.
2. Beech is distinguished by its uniform structure, high quality, pleasant shade and more affordable cost than the first position.
3. Larch is the most affordable and popular material. At the same time, the quality and reliability of products made from this tree are as high as those of oak.
4. The ash-tree differs in the highest durability among the listed grades. Him beautiful drawing, a wide range of shades from dark to light.
5. Elite wood species are distinguished by a higher cost, but also good strength characteristics. These include wenge, badi, dussie, brightly, yatobo.
6. It is possible to make the finishing of the concrete staircase with a cheaper material, such as linden or pine. These varieties are distinguished by light tones, which can visually reduce the bulkiness of the structure. However, they are significantly inferior in strength indicators, therefore, such a finish will last less, quickly lose its attractive appearance.

To determine the amount of material required for arranging stairs based on concrete, it is necessary to carry out a calculation. To do this, you will need the following parameters:

• dimensions of one step: thickness, width, depth;
• riser dimensions;
• the number of steps and risers.

To construct the step overlays, you need to use wood material up to 1.5 cm thick. You can compensate for the protrusions with roundings and canopies. For the arrangement of risers, thinner plywood is used, since the load in this area is minimal.

It is convenient to walk on the steps if the step width is 60-65 cm. You can increase the step due to the overhanging of the material in the finish. Overall Width stairs should be sufficient for steady movement. Due to the reinforcement, it becomes possible to expand the flight of stairs without losing stability.

Wood is an excellent option for finishing a wide variety of structures due to a number of positive properties and an attractive appearance. In this article, we will look at how to finish a concrete staircase with a tree with your own hands so that the result is durable and reliable.

All requirements must be met technological process, each of the stages is very important and has the most direct impact on the final result.

In the photo: facing a concrete staircase with wood literally transforms it

All wooden elements

If you do the work yourself, then you will have to look for the necessary materials. The easiest way is to invite specialists to make all the necessary measurements and give their recommendations, because in addition to wood on the stairs you will need railings and balusters, as well as other elements that you may not even know about

Components of the structure

Kosour is a supporting structure that performs the supporting function of steps and risers, and also all loads fall on it.

The string also performs a support-bearing function. It is a beam with recesses in which the end sides of the steps are installed. Due to the fact that the bowstring cannot withstand heavy loads, it is rarely used.

Steps. The design of these elements is horizontal (treads) and vertical (risers) beams. If desired, stairs can also be made without risers, and the gap between the steps will not be closed. In this case, the ladder is considered fragile.

The shape of the steps is made rectangular, rotary, and to give the design originality - radius.

Railings are wooden trim elements such as balusters and handrails. They are different in shape. Usually the shape depends on the desire of the customer, as they can be made to order.

With a multi-flight design, an additional support pole or several poles are installed at turns.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

• First, the supporting elements are attached;
• Then steps;
• At the very end is the fence.

How to fix a wooden staircase on the second floor with bowstrings

There are two types of ladders on bowstrings - when the supporting element is on one side, and on the other, the steps are attached directly to the wall. And the second option - the bowstrings are on both sides and cover the ends of the steps. Each type has options:

• Straight;
• rotary;
• In several spans;
• With an intermediate platform;
• With running steps.

A ladder structure with two bowstrings is first assembled on the floor. If a ready-made structure is purchased, which only needs to be assembled, the bowstrings already have special slots for the steps. If the manufacture of the stairs takes place at home, then all the steps are done independently.

Slots are made in the supporting beams (board 50 mm), corresponding in size to the thickness, width and configuration of the steps. After the slots are made, you can pre-prepare the bowstring for mounting to the wall. To do this, through holes are made in it for special anchors at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other along the entire length. Then, having attached the bowstring to the wall at the place of installation, points for fastenings are marked on it through the holes.

To avoid skew or mismatch, a plywood template is made, with the help of which markings are made on both bowstrings. The markup is done in a mirror image. The depth of the slots cannot be less than half the thickness of the board (25 mm). It happens that the slots are made through and then the ends protrude beyond the bowstring.

If the stairs start from winder steps, then the slots in each bowstring are made according to their size. On the one hand - for the wide part, on the other - for the narrow.

As a rule, such stairs are made open, that is, without risers. If there are risers, then cuts in the bowstrings are also made for them. Before assembling the structure, all elements are impregnated with flame retardants and antiseptics.

Traditionally, a metal staircase is considered the most reliable and durable.

Among the various ladder structures, metal ones are particularly durable and stable. At the same time, there are many ways to fasten the steps of such a ladder. Installation can be carried out by the following methods:

• on stringers;
• for fillies;
• on the plates of the central support;
• on the pain.

How best to install the steps depends on what type of metal frame is used in a particular case.

Particular attention should be paid to screw models. Such stairs differ in almost every aspect. The central axial beam serves as a support for them. Speaking specifically about the metal variation, it is best made from a pipe.

Screw design implies special kind step fixings

Thus, the frame is represented by a central support, to which platforms for future steps are attached. Their installation is most often carried out either using bolts and brackets, or by welding. That is, as such, there is no fastening of the steps to the bowstring, they are superimposed on the prepared site.

Wooden elements are fixed in several places. In order not to spoil the appearance of the front side of the steps, they are screwed from the back side. If the platform is represented by a frame welded from corner profiles, a board of the required size is selected for each element and laid with a small gap so that its structure does not collapse when the volume changes.

Another way to install stair steps is to mount them with bolts. This approach is most often used in modern designs, in particular, in modular ones.

A feature of this method is that the frame as such may be absent altogether. In this case, the steps are fixed to each other with the help of bolts, and the emphasis is on the wall and supporting columns.

In order to fix the steps in this way, it is necessary first of all to provide secure fastening details of the stairs to the wall. This design can only be used if adjacent to the carrier concrete wall, since the flimsy partitions will not withstand the load exerted on them.

The position of the steps is determined in a standard way at the design stage. Then the brackets are driven into the wall and with their help all the elements are fixed. Between themselves, the steps are connected with the help of bolts along the outer edge. A small indent is made on the side, and then a suitable hole is drilled. Bolts are placed on the prepared area and fixed with screws.

Bolza - a spectacular structural element of the stairs

Since high ladders place a greater load on the lower parts, it is necessary to provide additional support elements for every 4-5 steps, depending on the total weight elements and slope angle.

Common mistakes at work

Most often, the steps differ in height, but you need to bring them to a single standard, and the easiest way to do this is with a self-leveler. If the differences are insignificant, then you can level the surface with a liquid cement mortar. Sometimes it is easier to reduce the height of one step than to raise all the others, in this case a power tool with a special grinding crown for concrete is required

With its help, the surface of the stairs is sheathed in order to protect the steps from moisture and minimize the likelihood of their deformation. You will need material with a thickness of 10-15 mm

Both plywood and wooden elements sit on special mastics or two-component solutions, they provide the most reliable fastening and create an additional barrier to moisture

Important! In addition, you will need fasteners: dowels, screws, bolts or studs. All this is selected depending on the design features and is calculated on an individual basis.

In modern versions, even impact-resistant glass is found as a building envelope.

Fixing stairs

The staircase will be more reliable and convenient during active use if a fence is attached to it with balusters. Each support column is attached vertically to the handrail, connecting below to the beam in increments of no more than 15 centimeters. Such fastening is necessary for the safe placement of the fence and a minimum margin of safety.

The installation of a wooden staircase is carried out independently in a short time, but it is necessary to carefully choose the wood for the structure in order to prevent cracking and resin release over time. Reliable material and competent calculation allow you to install the stairs for a long time, while none of the details will let the owner down in terms of service life. Railings and landings, flights of stairs to any floor must be fixed with balusters, so the installation of this element is especially important.

It is possible to fasten balusters on stairs, at the base of which there is a bowstring, in any place, since fastening is carried out not on a step, but on a beam. Typically, the installation of racks is done from the outside in the sidewall of the carrier beam. In this case, screws are used, which are screwed into the grooves and covered with decorative dowels.

Experts recommend fixing the structure when attached to the bowstring with carpentry glue (to splice them together), and fastening with clamps. Balusters are planted on the beam with the help of dowels, round spikes for fasteners. It is necessary to pre-make a hole for them in the rack, avoiding backlash. The dowels are inserted tightly into the racks and fixed with an adhesive solution. The bowstring and railing are connected by the lower parts of the dowels.

To the surface of the support beam of the rack, you need to fasten with studs. To do this, you need a conventional drill and a face saw. From the materials you will need the bowstring itself, fence posts, galvanized studs with a thread of at least M6, PVA glue in a tube. Typical work sequence:

• It is necessary to mark the places for attaching the railing in the form of racks. If a complex design is chosen, it is recommended that the project be checked by professionals;
• It is recommended to securely fasten the rack and cut off its lower corners, maintaining the angle of the inclined beam;
• Make holes with a diameter of 12 mm for a length of 80 mm;
• Drown the studs in the adhesive and insert into the holes, leaving 7 centimeters out;
• Make holes in the bowstring, for this, the drill bit of the drill must be fixed up to 14 mm. Depth of work - 10cm;
• Balusters are inserted with studs, while the fixation process comes from the extreme pillars.

To the bowstring of the stairs, the step is attached by tie-in or mounting on supporting parts. These include special bars that are attached to the beam with screws on the tread. The tread itself is attached to the supports with the same screws.

Some experts recommend splicing a step. In this case, short bars are used for gluing, which makes the surface not solid, but with longitudinal and transverse seams. You can splice in a checkerboard pattern, which resembles the connection of parquet.

It is allowed to arrange a staircase with steps cut into the bowstring with grooves 2 cm deep. It is necessary to first mark them, stepping back from the edge of the edge, then insert a tread with a riser inside. The easiest way is to screw the board from the end with a screw.

The ladder and its bowstring will be reliable and safe if the bowstrings are docked on the balusters. In this case, there are several sections in the beam, the fastening of which is made in baluster grooves.

All incoming load from the top of the stairs is transferred to the fence posts, so during operation the entire structure becomes a single system. Balusters, step and bowstring will be interconnected. The choice of step type does not affect the strength of the structure, but if the steps are spliced ​​together, the surface characteristics will be significantly improved.

Mortise Mount

You can make a mortise type mount yourself using a drill and a hand mill, a chisel and a jigsaw, a screwdriver. It is also worth preparing screws, plywood, wood slats, risers and treads.

1. The bowstring must be marked with a plywood template, in which the tread is cut with or without a riser according to the size of the march;
2. Apply the reference line with an indent from the edge of the edge by 50mm;
3. Make fastening rails of the guide type, sliding along the top of the board. The template moves along the material in such a way that the tops of the zigzags of the step are located along the reference line;
4. Grooves are made in the bowstring, with the obligatory observance of the angle to the location of the fibers of the material. Reliable way make the correct groove - use a stencil with a hole in the plywood. In this case, with a jigsaw and a drill, you can make the desired hole size;
5. The beam is placed on the goats, a stencil is placed on top of it so that the tread matches, a mount is made;
6. With a milling cutter in the clockwise direction, a groove is cut 20 cm deep, after which the corners are processed with a chisel;
7. Having made the required number of grooves, the ladder is assembled, each step in the groove is smeared with glue;
8. The risers and treads need to be fixed with a screw, each step is fastened to the bowstring with screws from the outside. A decorative cap is installed over the fastener.

Mounting with supports

Fastening steps using metal supports does not require milling. Of the tools you need only a hammer and a drill, nails, screws and metal corners. It is necessary to mark the tread according to the plywood template, then nail the support bar. Metal corners are fixed with screws using prepared holes. Each step is connected to the supporting element with a screw.

A staircase with a one-sided bowstring, when the second function is performed by a wall, is done as a fastening of steps and balusters. To do this, you need to make a bowstring, in which cut the mortise grooves with a milling cutter. Treads and risers are assembled into steps. The bottom of the step is attached to the groove on the support beam on one side, and on the other - to the baluster.

The lower racks are bolted to the floor, connecting the base of the lower step with screws. The installation of the second stage is carried out, fixed to the fence post (handrail). The back of the lower step is needed to support the front of the next step, and the middle is fixed to the uprights. This principle works for all steps in the ladder.

You can choose any method of fastening the step to the bowstring of the stairs, the main thing is that it fits its design and stylistic performance. For reliability and durability of the product, it is necessary to carry out its installation in strict sequence for each type. After that, the structure will serve for a long time without the need for repair or replacement.

The ends of the steps are impregnated with glue, and the inner surface of the slot on one bowstring is smeared with it. The step is inserted into the groove and pressed. This is done with all steps, then, the same action is performed with another bowstring. After the glue dries, for a more reliable fixation, the connection is duplicated with screws.

Hats are deepened by 5-7 mm and then decorated with either plugs or putty. Another option for fastening steps is on metal corners, linings or on curved figured supports. Then the recesses on the bowstrings are made for them and fixed with self-tapping screws. Then, on metal mounts impose wooden steps, which are also fixed with dowels from the underside so that they are not visible.

The bearing beam of the staircase structure, that is, the kosour, is the element on which the steps are mounted. Basic mounting methods:

1. The simplest - self-tapping screws. The steps are drilled through and screws are screwed into the holes, such a fastening is called secret. So that there is no hole left, it is slightly expanded with a large drill and a plug is inserted. There are fasteners with decorative heads. They do not hide, as the heads are decoration.
2. With the help of pins. In the kosour and steps, holes are drilled with a diameter that matches the size of the cotter pin. The step is smeared with glue and planted on the kosour. The mount itself is not visible.
3. On bars or corners made of metal.
4. Embedded steps. For them, undercuts are made in the kosour, where the tread is inserted, for reliability it is fixed with carpentry glue.
5. With the help of pins (dowels). In this way, the tread is attached to the riser from above, and the riser is connected to the bottom step. At the same time, for steps made of wood hard rock dowels are made of softwood, and for softwood treads, hardwood is used for dowels.
6. For installation, metal support legs are used, which are attached to the stringer with dowels.

In all installation options, before fixing the risers on a wooden staircase, they are smeared with glue to strengthen the connection of the elements and eliminate creaking and loosening in the future. In general, there are three main types of riser attachments:

• In the groove - the simplest and most common;
• At the end with self-tapping screws;
• With the help of a corner.

In all options, the height of the riser will be different and this should be taken into account when assembling the structure.

In our do-it-yourself version of the staircase, the most convenient option is the upper fastening of the steps to the stringer. This option for fastening steps, in turn, can also be divided into several ways of fastening:

1. Fastening the step to the stringer leaving the hardware head on the step surface, bolt-nut connection or bolt-thread in the stringer.
2. Fastening the step to the stringer with a partial recess of the hardware head into the step. Connection, as well as in the first method.

If you choose the first method of fastening the steps to the frame of the stairs, then in this case it is necessary to purchase bolts with a decorative cap and preferably a turnkey hexagon. When installing such bolts, the decorative cap will serve as additional decor stairs, and if during the operation of the stairs the fastening of the steps is weakened, then tightening or replacing the fastening material can be done without hindrance, because access to the bolt and nut in this case is free and nothing interferes with the repair work.

When choosing the second method, when the hardware head is partially recessed into the step and the hole is closed from above with a wooden plug or puttied. In this case, repairing the steps (replacing or tightening the mount) will be difficult, since we will have to drill a wooden plug in order to get to the hardware head, and this is not entirely agreeable. convenient option for repairing steps or tightening fasteners.

Marching structure fastening

After the whole march is assembled and the glue has dried, it's time to fix the structure in place. Since there is only one march, its support points are the floor of the lower floor and the platform of the upper one. Therefore, the length of the bowstrings is first measured and, if they protrude slightly beyond the overlap, then the excess is cut off.

A wall bowstring can only be attached to a main wall with a thickness of at least 25 cm. It must be block, brick or concrete. Holes are made in it according to the markup that was made at the time of preparing the bowstring for installing the steps. Then, by combining the holes in the bowstring and on the wall, the ladder is securely fixed with the help of anchors.

To the landing of the second floor, the stairs are attached with the help of a plank, which is hemmed between the bowstrings of the riser type. Through this bar, the ladder is fixed with anchors to the platform. Another option for fastening is possible - using corners or plates sewn to the bowstring.

Mounting order

For the construction of such a staircase, light materials are used, otherwise the structure will turn out to be too massive and heavy for floors.

The metal frame has the appearance of a stepped structure. If you use paired stringers, you can not particularly strain and fasten the parts directly to them. To do this, you need to drill holes and use the studs to put the steps on the appropriate places. After that, they are tightened with nuts from the back side and fixed in place.

It is easy to fix the steps on the metal stringer with nuts and bolts

If only one central stringer is used, installation is best done by fixing the step on additional site. To do this, a sheet of metal is screwed to the support, but rather welded. You just need to put the part in the correct position and screw it from the back.

Consider another way - how to attach the steps to the side string. In this case wooden details you can make money on pre-prepared studs located on the bowstring itself. Or you can cut the grooves clearly according to the thickness of the step and fix it with glue.

Finishing a concrete staircase with wood starts from the bottom.

Installation of facing wooden material on a concrete staircase is a laborious process:

1. Preparation. The height of each step is measured, then aligned to the highest. For this, self-leveling floor compounds are used. If the difference in height is insignificant, unevenness on the concrete is smoothed out with a thin layer of the mixture. With a high run-up in the size of the steps, plywood formwork is made according to the required height. It is attached to dowels.
2. Primer. After leveling, the surface is cleaned of debris and dust. A primer layer is then applied, which increases the adhesion between the finishing materials. The mixture should be applied after the primer has completely dried.
3. Waterproofing. In order to protect against moisture, plywood sheets 10-15 cm thick are attached to the concrete. This layer is treated with a primer.
4. Wood veneer. You can make steps from natural wood with your own hands, pick up finished products, order individual shape. For fastening, three bolts with a diameter of 0.6 cm are used. They are screwed into lower part riser so that their hats protrude a little. Then the hats are cut off, and the risers are combined with the steps. Holes are drilled according to the marks made, then filled with epoxy. Liquid nails are applied to the plywood, and the lining is attached on top. Holes are made in the resting riser for fastening to the second riser. The next plywood layer and holes are treated with glue. At this stage, the first wooden step is superimposed on the concrete base. You can measure the correctness of the masonry building level. So the whole staircase is finished.

If, after facing work, gaps have formed between one step and the second, as well as on the side, they are treated with putty or foam.

Fixing a ladder with a turntable

If the design provides for an interfloor platform, then first install the supporting pillars from a 100x100 mm beam. Not everyone knows how to fix the support post of a wooden staircase, but in fact there is nothing difficult in this. The number of pillars may vary. If the platform adjoins the corner of the room, then there is only one support post and then it is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws and wood glue. On the other two sides, the platform is mounted to the walls forming an angle.

Two - four pillars for greater stability can be connected to by means of bars or boards around the perimeter at the bottom and top. The platform will rest on this strong parallelepiped, and be drilled to it with the help of self-tapping screws and corners. The beams, in turn, are attached to the floor with long self-tapping screws.

The lower section of the march is attached simultaneously to the platform and the support post, if it is adjacent to the wall, then it is also fixed to vertical surface. On the support post, a cut is made vertically, matching the width and thickness of the bowstring in size. When assembling, the free bowstring is inserted into the slot, previously lubricated with glue, and fixed with a hairpin. The march is attached to the platform with the help of anchors and horizontal bar located between the bowstrings.

The installation of the upper march takes place in the same way as the lower one. It is fixed to the platform of the second floor and to the intermediate one. If the ladder runs along the wall, then it is attached to it.

Finishing the stairs and the floor should be combined.

In order to obtain a quality result, it is recommended to pay attention to some tips:

1. Color design floors and stairs should be combined in style and shades.
2. The strength characteristics of the stairs should be comparable with the same indicator floor covering. It is better to use wood of the same type.
3. The cladding layer must be more than 3 cm. A thinner coating has a lower service life.
4. Finishing with wood should be carried out only after leveling and complete cleaning of the concrete base.
5. The gap between the handrails and marches should vary between 7.5-15 cm. This is enough to pass the fire hose.
6. The height of the steps must be the same. Otherwise, alignment may be difficult. Moreover, it is not recommended to use glue and putty for these purposes. The maximum allowable run-up in height is 1 cm. When leveling the heights, it is recommended to use concrete mortars with step reinforcement reinforcing mesh.
7. It is unacceptable to use low-quality wooden cladding, as such a staircase will not last long.
8. Crossbars, balusters. railing. steps are best done in the same style and color. It is acceptable to combine wooden stairs and, for example, forged railings.
9. Facing should be carried out after major repairs.
10. To perform the work, it is necessary to attract specialists with a certain skill of work.

Sheathing stairs made of concrete with wood gives the following advantages:

• compliance fire safety;
• increased service life of the stairs;
• strength and rigidity of the finished product.

A staircase with wood cladding will decorate the interior, and a concrete base will ensure the reliability and durability of the structure. If you have the skills and knowledge of the technology of sheathing stairs with wood, you can do the work yourself.

Otherwise, it is better to involve professionals, otherwise mistakes made can lead to additional costs.

Workflow organization

All work is divided into two critical milestones- preparation of the base and fastening of the main elements. Let's consider each of them in detail, because finishing a concrete staircase with a tree with your own hands is a very difficult and very responsible process (C, see also the article "Wood type - general information, classification and regulatory requirements for lumber”).

Preparation

Work should begin with the preparation of everything you need, so make sure that all materials and fixtures are at hand.

The sequence of events is as follows:

• First of all, the height of all steps in the structure is measured, this is necessary in order to determine the difference in the parameters. Minor differences can not be corrected, but it is still desirable to fill the plane with a liquid solution to obtain an ideal plane. If the difference is noticeable, it is necessary to prepare for pouring the steps, for this you will need the construction of formwork.
• The formwork is fastened so that its upper edge is a guideline for pouring the mortar. For the construction of the structure, an edged board or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm can be used, the frame must be neat so that the geometry of the steps is not disturbed.

If the staircase was built from blocks, you will have to make formwork for all steps, while it is important to initially bring out a uniform slope so that you do not have to carry out additional work later

• Next, you should clean the surface of dust and dirt and treat it with a primer, which will reduce the absorbency of the base and improve the adhesion of the adhesive. All the features of the preparation and use of the soil will be prompted by the instructions on the package, be sure to study it, because you may have a concentrated solution that must be diluted with water.

It is possible to prime the surface even before the formwork is installed

• Do-it-yourself sheathing of a concrete staircase with wood should not be done directly on concrete; first, plywood, cut into pieces of the desired configuration, is attached. First of all, the sheets are placed on the surface and checked for level, if necessary, chips or slats are placed under them. Next, the surface is covered with mastic and plywood is laid on it; for additional reliability, we recommend using quick installation dowels.

It is important to choose a quality adhesive so that it provides the best bond strength.

main stage

Now let's look at how to sheathe a concrete staircase with a tree with your own hands, work should begin after the adhesive has dried under the plywood, usually this period is about a day.

• First of all, steps are cut out of wood for a concrete staircase of the desired configuration. Risers are also prepared, which are most often made of the same material as the main elements. If the product configuration is complex, it is better to order these works from specialists with the appropriate equipment.
• The diagram below shows the entire workflow in a very clear and accessible way. The installation of wooden steps on a concrete staircase starts from the bottom, first, 3 holes with a diameter of 5 mm and a depth of 15 mm are drilled in the lower end of the riser on the sides and in the middle, pieces of a threaded stud with a threaded diameter of 6 mm and a length of 25 mm are hammered into them, that is, 10 mm will stick out from the outside. At the location of these elements, holes are drilled in the concrete, filled with epoxy and the riser is put in place.

This is how the connection diagram of the structural elements looks like

• Now let's look at how to fix wooden steps on a concrete staircase, or rather on a plywood base. In the lower part of the element, a groove is cut out for the protruding riser, it is also attached with self-tapping screws next element, which will be located under the step above. The bases are smeared with mastic, after which the finished structure sits on them, everything is done carefully with a constant level check.

Important! Sometimes, in order to fix the step in the desired position, you need to put a heavy object on it.

Two weights will do the job just fine.

• Further sheathing of concrete stairs with wood is carried out in a similar manner. a riser is attached to the step, and the element is glued to the base. It is important to do the work accurately and efficiently, without undue haste.
• If gaps and voids have formed in the end parts, then it is easiest to seal them with polyurethane mounting foam with a small coefficient of expansion.

How to fasten the steps to the bowstring of the stairs?

The installation of railings must be taken seriously. They must be sawn at the same angle, which creates difficulties when sawing by hand, as there is a possibility of error. In this regard, the cut is made on a special machine. Fencing posts are fixed to the floor with hardware.

To attach the handrail, a recess is drilled in the bowstring, balusters and in the handrail itself with a smaller diameter than the rod. Then the structure is installed on the pins and fastened with self-tapping screws. For the stability of the fence, the lower end of the handrails is attached to a pole, and the upper end to a wall or a wooden pole. The fastening must be strong, since a large load goes in these places.

Before installing the balusters, you need to accurately adjust the angle of the bowstring. Trimming at the base is done on a special tool with an angle setting. Then fastening is carried out in the same way as on the tread. Mounting on a bowstring is possible if it is of sufficient thickness.

If you plan to build a staircase with mortise steps, then the grooves are made from the inside. Their depth should be in the range of 1.5 to 2 centimeters. After that, risers and treads are carefully inserted into the grooves. When working on your own, remember that the bowstring should have cutouts with even edges and the same depth.

Pay close attention to markup relative position grooves on two support beams. If it is uneven, then in the future an unexpected distortion of the staircase structure may occur.

Experts recommend in such cases to make special templates cut from a thin sheet of plywood. To prevent the bowstring from turning into a kosour, the guides should be fixed at a distance of 50 millimeters from the pre-marked line.

The marking for the grooves is as follows. Longitudinal lines are drawn on the inside of the beam. From the edges of the beam, they should recede by 50 millimeters. If such a need arises, then this distance can be reduced to 30 millimeters. Next, the finished template is carefully moved along the edge using guides. The location of the steps is marked with a pencil.

Remember that when marking the bowstring of one ladder structure, the location of the grooves must be completely mirrored.

The lower and upper parts of the support beams must completely coincide with the levels of the floors. But this coincidence will be vertical or horizontal, it directly depends on the type of structure.

Experts who know all the features of fastening and marking do not recommend quickly sawing off excess ends. It is possible that they will be needed for tapping into a special support beam during final installation.

In order to get a reliable and very durable staircase on a bowstring, the fastening of the side elements is best done with the help of rods. It can be a wooden band on bolts or wedges, as well as a metal band on nuts. Tie rods are installed from two edges of the stairs and in its central part.

Mounting options for steps

From the side it may seem that the stairs on the bowstrings look monotonous and uncomplicated. But, this is far from the case. There are a huge number of options for their design.

In order to choose the best installation option, you should study the possible ways of mounting steps:

1. Sliding steps are not just inserted into pre-made grooves, but gently slide into them. The cut recess should not only have an entrance for the steps, but also an exit to the outside. In these designs, the treads can be dismantled without disassembling the entire staircase structure.
2. Mortise steps - a standard technique for connecting treads and risers. A hole is cut in advance in the bowstring, into which a step is then hammered. In order to make grooves, you should use a hand mill. If there is no router, then you can take a chisel and a hammer. But, this method takes a lot of time. After the steps are fixed on one bowstring, the second element should be filled from the other edge.
3. The use of corners. This method involves the use of additional elements. In order not to waste time cutting corners, you can attach metal corners to the sidewalls. It is on these additional elements that the treads will be attached in the future.

Practical instruction

The time has come to make wooden steps with your own hands. We will go through 3 stages: we will perform the calculation, we will make the steps, then we will mount them.

Determine the height of the structure, its dimensions and the number of steps. In order for you to get a bowstring, take a wooden stick of the required thickness. As noted above, cutting grooves should be done using templates.

When cutting grooves yourself, copy the marks from the template to the workpiece. Wood is processed with a special milling cutter with a nozzle of the required diameter.

After that, fix the inner bowstring at the construction site and connect all the elements of the steps. When the work is completed, on the second side, press the elements of the steps with another bowstring and gently tamp. Using glue and nails, you can make the structure more durable and reliable in use.

By installing strands, you can prevent unwanted loosening of the ladder structure. The strands are mounted at the rate of one per 5 steps.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that it is not so difficult to design a bowstring for a staircase with your own hands, as it might seem at first glance. Before using the ladder structure for its intended purpose, you should make sure that the fasteners are strong.

If necessary, additional vertical support elements can be installed. For this purpose, metal tubes or wooden beams are suitable. Models of stairs look interesting, which, with the help of suspensions, are mounted to ceilings.

As for the fences, they can be installed both on the bowstring and on the steps themselves. It all depends on your aesthetic preferences. If you are not sure that you can do the job yourself, even with the help of video instructions, then it is better to contact specialists. The company "Stairs Master" employs masters who will perform all the tasks assigned to them not only quickly, but also with high quality. Such a bowstring for stairs is guaranteed to be reliable, durable and aesthetically attractive.

How to install a railing on a wooden staircase

The railing is the final element that ensures the safety of movement and fixes the balusters in the upper part. They can be made from:

• metal;
• Stone;
• polymeric materials;
• tempered glass;
• Wood.

Finished wooden railings are attached to the balusters using:

• self-tapping screws;
• Screws;
• Shipov;
• Arms.

The railing can be fixed both on the stair structure and on the wall. In this case, the handrail is placed at a distance of 90 cm from the crest of the step and is parallel to the bowstring or stringer, maintaining the angle of inclination of the staircase structure.

When mounting wooden handrails on wooden balusters, the latter are cut in the upper part at an angle. The angle is equal to the steepness of the march setting. To cut off exactly the upper part, you need to make a markup with a thread stretched through all the balusters from top to bottom. Mark a straight line with a pencil and saw off the excess along it.

Before trimming, a mark is made on the support for the handrail in the middle of the part and a hole is drilled for the pin or dowel. On a flat surface, this is easier to do, since the hole should run vertically.

After trimming, studs are screwed into the holes. On the handrail, it is also necessary to make the corresponding holes. In order not to be mistaken, you need to combine the handrail with the balusters, on which the studs are already inserted, and lightly tap on them along the entire length. Traces will remain on the inside of the railing, and holes must be drilled in this place. Before installing the connection, for reliability, it is necessary to coat with glue.

Another option for mounting railings to balusters is with the use of a railing, the so-called auxiliary bar. It is made with a spike and repeats the configuration of the handrail notch. The plank is applied to the sawn surface of the balusters, fixed with self-tapping screws and then inserted into the recess, it is pre-lubricated with glue.

Use stud fastening. They are cut out at the top of the baluster. The spike configuration can be any, but it must match the shape of the recess on the handrail. Spike height up to 25 mm, with a handrail thickness of 45 mm.

If pillars are installed at the beginning of the stairs, then the railings are joined to the side face of the pillar. For connection, a zip bolt is used, which is inserted into the technological hole. This hole is located at the bottom of the handrail.

Selling firms often post assembly instruction videos on their websites. It is very comfortable. Our company, taking care of customers, also posted detailed instructions on the YouTube channel and on its own website. The craftsmen tell you how to fully assemble the structure and how to attach a wooden ladder to the surface of the floor and wall.

The most convenient option is the upper fastening of the steps to the stringer. This option for fastening steps, in turn, can also be divided into several ways of fastening:

1. Fastening the step to the stringer leaving the hardware head on the step surface, bolt-nut connection or bolt-thread in the stringer.
2. Fastening the step to the stringer with a partial recess of the hardware head into the step. Connection, as well as in the first method.

If you choose the first method of fastening the steps to the frame of the stairs, then in this case it is necessary to purchase bolts with a decorative cap and preferably a turnkey hexagon. When installing such bolts, the decorative cap will serve as an additional decoration of the stairs, and if during the operation of the stairs the fastening of the steps is weakened, then tightening or replacing the fixing material can be done without hindrance, because access to the bolt and nut in this case is free and nothing interferes with the repair works.

When choosing the second method, when the hardware head is partially recessed into the step and the hole is closed from above with a wooden plug or puttied. In this case, repairing the steps (replacing or tightening the mount) will be difficult, since we will have to drill a wooden plug in order to get to the hardware head, and this is not a very convenient option for repairing steps or tightening the mount.

In principle, these two methods of attaching steps to the stringer have almost equal chances for their use, and therefore we will consider both methods in this article. Now we need to decide on the hardware, that is, to choose the most suitable bolts for us to connect wooden products, in our case it is a wooden step. Next, we need to choose the hardware suitable for both methods.

As you can see in the photo, self-tapping screw No. 1 (on a yellow background) is suitable for fastening the step from below the stringer, it is accordingly not suitable for the methods of fastening the step chosen by us, so let's move on to other hardware.

The same photo on the right shows a countersunk head bolt (#2). This bolt has a countersunk head with a mustache; when such a bolt is installed in a hole made in a wooden step, the bolt will not be able to turn while tightening the nut, since the mustache cuts into the wood when tightened and serves as a kind of stopper. From above, the hole is closed with a wooden plug (to the left of the bolt).

The photo below shows pan-head furniture bolts. Under the head of bolt No. 3 there is a square head, and under the head of bolt No. 4 there is a mustache. These bolts, as well as bolt number 2 in their design feature will not rotate in the wooden step while tightening the nut. The only thing is that the heads of bolts No. 3 and 4 will remain on top of the stage.

It remains to make a choice of bolts. Let's choose bolt No. 4 for the first method of fixing the stage and bolt No. 2 for the second method of fixing the stage.

Next, we will make markings for the through holes in the stringers of the stairs. We need to make at least two holes in the reference corner of the left and right stringers. Let's look at an example of calculating hole locations:

First, determine the center of the hole. To do this, measure 20 mm from the edge of the kosour (half the width of the corner shelf) and draw the X axis. Next, measure 40 mm from end A, and draw the Y axis, measure 60 mm from end B and draw the Y1 axis, at the intersection of the axes we get the center of future holes .

The diameter of the holes depends on the diameter of the bolts with which we will fasten the steps. Take for example the bolts we have chosen in photo 3. Bolt No. 2 (DIN 604) and bolt No. 4 (DIN 607) - the diameter of the bolts is 8 mm. This means that for making holes we need a drill with a diameter of more than 8 mm, for example 8.5 mm. The use of a drill with a large diameter is not recommended in order to ensure the tightest installation of the bolt.

Now you need to make holes in the steps. We mark the places for arranging holes in the steps in such a way that they coincide with the holes in the stringers.

If you and I use a bolt No. 2 with a countersunk head to fasten the steps, then in this case we need to drill two holes. The first hole is a through hole with a diameter of 8 ... 8.2 mm. Through this hole we will install a bolt with a partial depth of its head, so we need to make another hole with a diameter of 17 mm and a depth of at least 15 mm, as shown in Figure 7 (footnote on the right). Why is the hole depth exactly 15 mm?

As can be seen from Figure 7, the head of bolt #2 has a diameter of 16.55 mm and a height of 5 mm. This means that when installing the bolt, the cap will take at least 3 ... 4 mm in height, and we need the rest of the hole height to install a wooden plug 10 ... 12 mm high. Therefore, we will make a second hole with a depth of at least 15 mm.

When using bolt number 4, it is enough for us to drill one through hole with a diameter of 8 ... 8.2 mm. In order for the mustache to cut into the step, you can make a few not too strong blows with a rubber mallet on the bolt head. With each blow, the bolt will lower, and the mustache will crash into the step, and then when the nut is tightened, the bolt will not turn.

Installation of steps and risers on stairs

So, the steps are ready for installation on the stairs. After we figure it out, we can begin installing the steps and risers on the stairs.

Let's start with the bottom flight of stairs, first install the bottom frieze step(A) fasten it to the stringer with four bolts, for example, with a countersunk head and install wooden plugs. After we install the riser (B) and the second step (C), we also attach the step to the stringer. In the same order of risers - step, we continue the installation of steps on the entire staircase.

The order of installation of hardware is shown in the figure in the footnote. First we install the bolt, then we put the washer on the bolt, the grover and after that we already wind and tighten the nut.

Note: and the lower riser will be installed after the installation of the stair railing.