The construction of the staircase structure in a private house is not only necessary, sometimes it is extremely necessary. Multi-level, two-story houses, attics, attics and porches in most cases require special access.
It can be done only with the help of an auxiliary ladder. Choosing wood as the starting material for construction, you will immediately kill two birds with one stone:
For most owners of cottages and their own land, the pricing policy of the product will be decisive. It should be noted right away that wood is not the cheapest of materials, it requires maintenance, which will constantly need cash infusions. A good solution would be to build the structure yourself. Thus, you will significantly save money on installation and design services.
Design choice
After deciding to independently engage in the production of stairs for personal use, you should choose a design that will be optimal for your purposes. It is worth determining the type of structure: screw or marching. For self-construction, it is better to use mid-flight structures, they are easy to install and do not require special knowledge of an engineering house, but if you need to save space in the room, you won’t be able to do without spiral staircases.
The marching staircase can be straight and rotary. Rotary or two-march structures will allow you to change direction and save a little space, but you need to do them as carefully as possible so as not to violate the technology that will be described below. Steps can be based on one or more methods. Usually, a bowstring or kosour made of wood or metal is used.
Winder steps are used in mid-flight, rotary structures; for a straight staircase, such a step design is not required.
A spiral staircase is a cause for concern only if you decide to make it yourself. Its main difference from the marching one is that you can create a unique structure, of any height on 1.5-2 m 2 area. The design is quite complicated in execution and installation. It is necessary to take into account the general building rules, which will be decisive in the convenience and safety of use.
Self built
To get started, you will need some essential tools. It cannot be said that it will be possible to cut out any structure with improvised means, but if you have dealt with wood processing, the equipment will definitely be in the tool box. For self-construction of stairs made of wood, you will need:
- Boards and timber;
- Electric jigsaw or wood saw;
- Construction corner and tape measure;
- Level;
- Chisel and hammer;
- Sandpaper and grinder of any type;
- Drill and perforator with nozzles;
- Anchors, mounting angles and other consumables.
Construction and details
The appearance of even stairs of the same design may differ. The obligatory presence of columns, balusters and railings can significantly transform your brainchild.
The use of risers is not always appropriate, although they will fit the stairs quite noblely into the overall interior of the building. Small carved details can become both an additional security system and just a decorative element.
In order to determine in advance the appearance and complexity of the design, it is necessary to sketch a drawing by hand, which will be important in further actions. In the drawings, it is imperative to draw all the elements and details of the structure .
The height, width of the stairs and steps, the features of the feet and the height of the step are taken into account.
Elementary calculations can be made using information from open access on the Internet.
Simple mathematical formulas will greatly facilitate the task in designing. Designs with the same and clear drawings are much easier to perform and assemble.
step by step
It's time to consider the step-by-step installation steps, as promised earlier. Accurate fulfillment of the requirements is, first of all, the safety of a person during ascent and descent, therefore, in no case should you miss even the smallest details. . Let's consider step-by-step actions in the installation of the simplest design: a straight marching staircase.
Railing installation may vary. In some cases, the distance to the wall allows installation directly to it or to fasten the structure to the staircase itself. Similar supports can also be independently made from wood or metal. It would be useful to buy ready-made railings with beautiful balusters and handrails. If the space and design of the stairs allows, you can install two pillars at the beginning and end of the flight of stairs, on which the handrail will be fixed, but in such cases the handrail will rarely be able to perform decorative functions.
If the scenery is no less important to you, take on the manufacture of beautiful carved balusters. You can come up with a design yourself or buy a finished product. Their installation will be carried out on a horizontal or vertical plane. You can use both steps and balusters for fixing, but this must be taken into account in advance so as not to harm the installation of the entire structure.
If the staircase is not installed indoors, but outdoors, you can independently erect two concrete slabs, to which the handrail will be attached. There are a lot of options for installation and a way to implement them, so you should not focus on one of the options, it is better to consider all possible options in advance and choose the one that suits the interior and exterior of the building.
Photo and video installation of spiral staircases
For general education, before starting to plan, you may need a short photo or video editing tutorial.
Having received at least the basic concepts of how the workpiece is made and the connection of the material, it will be much easier for you to draw a picture in your head, which is very important. A craftsman who knows what the finished product looks like can do a job much better and faster than a person who has no idea about the upcoming lessons.
Information is especially important for those who decide to build a spiral staircase. The usual description for this is not enough, you need to consider the options on a specific example, with a description of all the preparatory and installation work. Video tutorials on carpentry here will have a special impact on a person and, you see, a self-created design of a spiral staircase will please the eye, and no one will be interested in where you got the information from.
Step-by-step instructions on how to make a wooden staircase with your own hands - video, how to build steps from wood to the house, to the second floor, building a spiral staircase - installation photo, how to make a railing, assemble your staircase - design and details
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Low-rise construction, when it comes to residential buildings, involves the construction of at least two-level buildings. Therefore, to move to the second floor, you cannot do without an internal staircase. The purchase of a ready-made kit, firstly, will be quite expensive (at least 35,000 rubles), and secondly, it must be adapted to specific premises before installation, or be reconstructed (re-planned). And this is an additional cost and time.
In most cases, it is more expedient to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, especially since it will turn out to be approximately the same in terms of time. The simplest and most inexpensive option is wood construction. This article will explain in detail all the nuances of choosing lumber, drawing up a staircase drawing and the features of its assembly.
In relation to a private house, two are most common - a spiral staircase and a mid-flight staircase. The first option is quite complicated, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to implement it with your own hands, without practical skills and experience in this area. You will have to make specific engineering calculations, which means that you cannot do without the help of a professional at least at this stage of preparation. Focusing only on the schemes available on the Internet is not entirely correct. They do not take into account the specifics of a particular structure, so they will definitely have to be processed taking into account the characteristics of its dimensions, layout and a number of other factors. And the installation of a spiral staircase itself, especially a wooden one, is far from a simple process.
For DIY assembly the optimal solution is a mid-flight wooden staircase. Based on the height of the premises on the first floor, there can be one or two spans (swivel structure).
But in the details, even completely identical stairs can differ greatly. And this is easily explained by the fact that making with your own hands implies an element of creativity. Since all private houses differ in many ways (dimensions, ceiling heights, layout, internal content), then following a single standard is a hopeless business. By the way, the author has already drawn the attention of the reader to this. Therefore, below are only general recommendations that will help you correctly draw up a drawing of a wooden staircase, taking into account all the features of the structure, and install it in place.
general information
There are several options for the execution of mid-flight stairs. Their main varieties are shown in the figures below. It is not difficult to decide which modification to choose for installation with your own hands, knowing all the features of the house and the premises of the first and second floors.
When describing any product or prefabricated structure, one cannot do without special terminology. The following drawings explain well what the main elements of the stairs are called.
Preparation of materials
- When choosing a tree species, if you focus on a reasonable combination of quality / price, it is recommended to give preference to pine or larch. The latter is even better, as it is less prone to decay. In addition, when the liquid is absorbed, it only becomes stronger. Since there will definitely be evaporation in any living space, it is more than relevant, especially if there is a kitchen in the adjacent room. All other species - cedar, oak and a number of others - are unlikely to be budget options for a wooden staircase.
- The durability of the structure largely depends on the degree of drying of the lumber. If the wood in this regard is not sufficiently processed, then such a ladder will “lead” quite quickly. Drying the boards with your own hands is a process that is both troublesome and complicated. You will need not only a place for their storage, but also knowledge of all the features of the methodology. You will have to ensure the constancy of temperature, high-quality ventilation, and so on. The conclusion is unequivocal - it is not advisable to save on the material for a wooden staircase. That is, if you buy boards, then only a high degree of drying, although they are more expensive.
Calculation of the main parameters of the stairs
Width
When determining this parameter, one should be guided by such moments. Firstly, whether it will be convenient to move up the stairs at the same time, towards each other. Secondly, will it be possible to transfer oversized cargo from floor to floor (furniture, household appliances, and so on). For a private house recommended width of the internal stairs – 130±20.
Ladder height
When calculating this parameter, inexperienced "home masters" are guided by the ceiling of the first floor room. This is not true. When drawing up a staircase drawing, not only this parameter is taken into account, but also the total thickness of the ceiling and floor of the second room (together with the finish). That is, the last step should be on the same level with it.
span height
The distance between the steps and the ceiling of the second floor (ceiling) is implied. It is clear that moving up the stairs, constantly bending your head is not an option to save space. Basically, the masters are guided by 200. This is enough, since rarely anyone has growth that exceeds this value.
Steepness of a wooden staircase
A slope of 40 ± 5º is considered optimal. Exceeding this value will complicate the climb to the second floor for the elderly, young children, as well as those whose physical capabilities are limited for some reason. But even a more flat design has a number of disadvantages. The consumption of wood is increasing, and much more space will be needed for its installation. Here you need to choose the most suitable option for a particular house.
steps
- Tread. You should focus on the 45th size of a person's foot, then it will be convenient for everyone to walk up the stairs. Based on this, the recommended step width is within 28 ± 2.
- Riser. The optimal value, regardless of the design features of the wooden stairs, is 18±2. It will be convenient for both children and a tall person to move along it.
- Number of steps. This requires a calculation. The distance between adjacent ones is simply determined - the thickness of their board + risers. When a fractional value is received, it is rounded up to an integer value. It remains only to divide the height of the stairs by it.
What to consider:
- The dimensions of all steps of the flight ladder must be identical. That is, it is enough to make calculations for only one.
- If there are more than 18 steps, then it is recommended to provide a platform in the design of the stairs (hence, at least 2 marches). It is called differently - viewing, turning, intermediate - but you need to mount it. Another question - where exactly should it be located - strictly in the center of the span, closer to the top of the stairs? Here it is worth thinking, in accordance with the features of the house and the convenience of moving to the second floor.
Ladder length
This is the last step in the calculations. The initial data are the parameters of the steps and their number. As practice shows, when drawing up a drawing of a staircase on its own, it often does not fit in terms of the estimated length to the premises of the first floor. How to proceed? There are several options:
- Add one march. This solution is more complicated, since it will be necessary to mount an additional platform, and, therefore, to re-perform the main calculations.
- Provide for several turning (winder) steps in the design of the stairs. The option is simpler and more convenient for doing it yourself. It is he who is most often implemented.
Features of mounting a wooden staircase
Regardless of its design, all basic technological operations are identical. If you understand the nuances of building a single-flight staircase, then it will not be difficult to assemble it according to any other scheme.
The specifics of the preparation of components
Steps. For them, board segments are selected that do not have any defects in the form of chips, cracks, curvature. Their recommended thickness, taking into account the expected loads, is 35 ± 5. More impractical, since both the consumption of material and the total weight of the structure increase. Less undesirable for reasons of safety when moving up stairs (taking into account the loads carried).
At the stage of preparing the steps, it is necessary to round off the sharp edges of the fragments of the boards in order to eliminate the risk of injury. In addition, their front surface and ends must be carefully sanded - no chips, burrs, and so on. Here you will be most welcome. The length of the steps is selected depending on the chosen scheme of the wooden staircase. But their protrusions beyond the stringers by more than 3 (cm) are undesirable.
Riser. They are not load-bearing elements, and often play only a decorative role. Here you can save a little on them using a board for 10 or 15. By the way, some wooden stairs are assembled without them. Such structures look even more impressive, and, in addition, the cleaning of spans is greatly simplified.
Kosoura. These are supporting elements for the entire staircase, so the lumber for them should be chosen especially carefully. Particular attention is paid to the equality of all parameters. Both stringers should be like "twin brothers", otherwise the staircase after assembly will turn out to be asymmetric, with distortions, curvature, and so on. The figures show some variants of stringers.
The feasibility of making do-it-yourself fencing elements is in question. Well, if it is possible to process balusters, handrails on machine tools. Otherwise, it is better to purchase ready-made samples. Given the fact that it is they (especially with a side view) that are the first to catch the eye, such costs are fully justified.
The nuances of installing a wooden staircase
Kosour fastening. Fixing the extreme on the wall is possible only if the base is strong enough (a house made of bricks, timber, and so on). In other cases, the entire staircase structure is mounted on racks.
To prevent movement of the lower part, a support bar is installed on the floor of the first floor. The top of the span is attached to the ceiling itself (you will need to make a cutout in the beam along its width) or “fastened” to it with anchor bolts. The stringers themselves must also be fastened together so that they are not “led” during the drying process of the wood. For example, yes.
Riser. If it is decided to use them in the staircase scheme, then they are mounted on stringers.
Steps. In order not to be mistaken, their installation begins from the bottom of the structure. Side mounts - on the support beams, if there are risers, then at least at one point (in the center) on them.
Balusters. First, only two are mounted - the upper and lower. A cord is stretched between them. Focusing on it, it is easy to install stairs along the flights and align all the others.
Handrail attachment. When it comes to a wooden staircase, this does not a priori mean that these elements must also be made of wood. It is quite difficult to make them from it with your own hands. Here you will need not only experience, but also the appropriate tool. Options for handrails - plastic or metal.
Final stage
After checking the symmetry of the structure, the reliability of all connections, a number of measures are taken:
- Grinding of all structural parts.
- Impregnation with special / compositions (from fire, rot, wood-boring insects).
- Surface finish. The painting option is not for a private house. It is advisable to treat the stairs with a tinting compound, and on top or with a wax-containing solution. But this is at the discretion of the owner, depending on the general style of finishing the room.
A staircase is a rather complicated and very responsible construction, but it is within the power of every home craftsman who has at least minimal experience working with wood to make it. The main thing is to first familiarize yourself with the basic rules, requirements and nuances of its manufacture, which will be discussed further.
Design, or how to make the stairs comfortable and safe
It is necessary to decide on the design of the future stairs. It can be of the following types:
- spiral - the steps of such a staircase are winder (rotary), located around one axis. The main advantage of the screw design is its compactness. The disadvantages include the inconvenience of use and the complexity of manufacturing. Therefore, if you are going to make a staircase for the first time, it is better to refuse the screw structure;
- marching - has even flights of stairs (one or more), as a result of which it is much more convenient to use. True, the marching stairs take up a lot of space.
Next, we will consider how marching wooden stairs are made, and we will start with calculation and design. To make the design comfortable and safe, when performing the calculation, it is necessary to take into account the following rules and requirements for it:
- steps cannot be made of different widths and heights - this is one of the main rules, failure to comply with which can lead to injury;
- you can not make steps below 160 mm and above 190 mm;
- the step should not be narrower than 220 mm and wider than 330 mm;
- the width of the march should not be less than 900–1000 mm;
- the number of steps must be odd, which will allow you to start and end the movement on the stairs with the same foot;
- for the stairs to be comfortable, marches should have 11-15 steps;
- between the march and the ceiling (the ceiling of the second floor), the distance must be at least 2 m, however, this rule applies more to the size of the opening, and not to the design of the staircase itself.
We begin the calculation of the structure by measuring the height between the floor of the first and the floor of the second floor. Then be sure to measure the width and length of the site.
For example, the ceiling height is 2500 mm. take the average - 170 mm. To calculate the number of steps in a march, you need to divide the total height by the height of the steps. The result is 2500/170=14.7. So the number of steps should be an integer, we will correct their height - 2500/15 = 166 mm. Please note that in fact the march will have not 15, but 14 steps, since the function of the last step will be performed by the overlap of the second floor.
Now you need to decide on the width of the treads. To do this, we use the following formula: step height tread width = 430–450 mm. As a result, we get 450-166 \u003d 284 mm, round it up and get 280 mm.
If necessary, adjust the height of the step or its width, within the allowable values, so that the design matches the dimensions of the platform. The only thing is, when changing one parameter, recalculate the other parameters of the stairs, as they are interconnected.
If you do not have room for a staircase more than four meters long, it can be divided into two flights. They should be separated by a landing. The depth of the latter is always equal to the width of the span.
Even more save space allows the use of turning steps instead of landings. But in this case, the ladder becomes less convenient to use. As for the marches, they can be arranged L-shaped if the staircase is angular, or at an angle of 380 degrees, i.e. parallel to each other.
Finally, you need to calculate the length of the beams. Knowing the height of the stairs and the length, this can be done using the Pythagorean theorem a 2 b 2 \u003d c 2. Our legs are the length of the stairs (the projection of the march onto the floor) and the height of the stairs. Accordingly, we need to calculate the length of the hypotenuse.
Now you should decide on its main structural points. The fact is that flights of stairs are of several types:
- on bowstrings - treads are attached between the beams, while the beams (strings) themselves are even, i.e. no cutouts for stairs. Therefore, to fasten the treads in the face of the beams, grooves are milled or bars are attached - supports for the treads;
- on stringers - they are distinguished by the presence of cutouts under the steps, so the treads are not located between the beams, but are placed on top of them. This design provides the stairs with greater strength, and also looks more attractive. But in terms of manufacturing, the stairs on the stringers are more complicated.
Then you need to decide on the method of installing the beams. If the staircase will have one span, then it will not need supports: the march rests on the floor and the ceiling of the second floor. Two-flight stairs require the installation of support pillars on which the upper part of the lower flight, the landing and the lower part of the upper flight rest. Each bowstring or kosour requires its own support. An exception is the beams located near the wall - they can be fixed to the wall without supports.
When you decide on all the main points of the stairs, draw the design on paper, even schematically, and indicate the dimensions of all the elements of the stairs in millimeters.
We make the details of the stairs - the subtleties of the calculation
Start by cutting the boards to the length of the stringers. Then you need to mark the kosour - this is the most difficult and responsible operation. We begin the marking by marking the points from which the cutouts for the steps will be made. You can determine the distance between the cutouts on the stringer using the same Pythagorean theorem. Since the legs are the width of the tread and the height of the step, the distance between the edges of the steps in our case is 280 2 166 2 = 105956. We extract the square root and get 325 mm.
Thus, points with a step of 325 mm must be applied to the edge of the future kosour. Then you need to use a square and draw lines of tread and riser through the obtained points, which form a right angle. As a result, rectangles should be obtained, the hypotenuse of which is the edge of the stringer, and their vertices, respectively, are points located on the edge with a step of 325 mm.
In the same way, the marking of bowstrings is performed. Then bars are attached to it under the steps or grooves are milled.
Now you need to make cutouts for the steps according to the markup. To do this, you can use a jigsaw or a regular hacksaw. The edges of the stringer must be cut at an angle to provide maximum support to the floor and landing beam or ceiling.
Use the resulting kosour as a template for marking the reciprocal beam. Then make cutouts in the same way. According to this principle, complete the stringers for all flights of stairs.
Then prepare racks for supports from a bar of 70x70 or even 100x100 mm. Their height should correspond to the height of the lower march. To calculate it, multiply the number of steps of the first march by their height. If the staircase is L-shaped, then four racks for the landing will be needed. In this case, the landing itself will turn out to be square, as mentioned above, its width is equal to the width of the march, most often it is 1000x1000 mm.
If the marches are parallel to each other, 8 racks will be needed. In this case, the depth of the site should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. 1000 mm, and length 1000 1000 distance between marches.
You also need to make beams for strapping racks. You can use the same beam from which the racks themselves are made. The length of the beams is equal to the distance between the uprights of the landing.
At the end of the work, you need to make steps and risers. For their manufacture, use boards 30x300 mm. The length of the treads should correspond to the width of the march or be a couple of centimeters longer so that the tread hangs a little from the stringers. The risers are made of the same length, while their width should be less than the height of the step by the thickness of the riser, i.e. in our case - 166-30 = 136 mm.
Please note that the treads should hang over the lower steps by about 1 cm.
We assemble a ladder from finished parts
Now we begin the installation of the stairs. First of all, you need to apply markings to the floor and the walls adjacent to the stairs. This operation requires accuracy and care, since the assembly quality of the entire staircase depends on it.
Then, according to the markup, you need to install the supports of the stairwell. If the floor is concrete, special glasses can be used for these purposes, corresponding to the section of the racks.
Glasses are attached to the floor with dowels. Then the racks are inserted into the glasses and fixed with self-tapping screws. During the installation of the racks, be sure to ensure that they do not deviate from the vertical.
Tie the installed racks with horizontal beams. If you have a milling cutter, you can make a tongue and groove connection, for this you need to cut grooves in the racks, and make spikes for these grooves in the beams. If such a tool is not at hand, the connection can be made using steel corners and self-tapping screws. To give the structure rigidity, coat the joints of all parts with carpentry glue.
Now we install the stringers. If the march is adjacent to the wall, fix the beam on it according to the markup. In a wooden house, screws can be used to attach the beam to the walls, but if the wall is brick or concrete, fix the stringer with anchors. Use fasteners in pairs, placing them vertically 10 cm apart. Make the step of each pair of fasteners 20–25 centimeters.
The reciprocal kosour usually relies only on the rack of the landing. It is advisable to fix it on the rack with a tongue and groove method and self-tapping screws. If this is not possible, use self-tapping screws, and also fix another horizontal beam under the stringer, on which it will also rely. According to this principle, stringers are mounted for all flights of stairs. When installing the beams, be sure to use a level to make sure that the cutouts under the steps are opposite each other in the same horizontal plane.
Then we mount the treads and risers. The treads are laid on the cutouts in the stringers and fixed with self-tapping screws. To later hide the heads of the self-tapping screws, drill under the holes to a depth of several millimeters.
In order not to fasten the risers with self-tapping screws in the steps above and below them, a groove can be milled. The width of the groove must match the thickness of the riser. As a result, the risers will be fixed only with treads. If it is not possible to make grooves, fix the risers with self-tapping screws. In the process of installing treads and risers, also use wood glue.
So that the space under the stairs does not go to waste, you can make a locker under it. To do this, you just need to install the walls between the stringers and the floor, as well as install the doors.
Installing the stair railing
Now you need to install the fence (railing). It can be anything - forged, chrome-plated from stainless steel or even glass. But as an example, consider how a wooden fence is mounted.
The design of a wooden railing consists of figured posts (balusters) and a handrail. If you have a lathe, you can make figured columns yourself. If there is no such equipment, balusters can be purchased ready-made - the cost of a pine vegura column starts at an average of 150 rubles apiece.
Keep in mind that balusters will need two types - intermediate and extreme. The latter differ in size - they are larger. In addition, you will need dowels for fastening, which can be purchased at a furniture store.
The step-by-step instructions for installing the fence are as follows:
- 1. Mark the location of the fence: draw a straight line above the stringer on which the balusters will be installed;
- 2. Drill holes in the treads according to the diameter of the dowels. Holes can be positioned in the center of the tread;
- 3. Lubricate the holes with glue and hammer dowels into them;
- 4. Drill holes in the bottom end of the posts according to the diameter of the dowels, then coat the holes with glue and put the balusters on the dowels;
- 5. Cut the intermediate baluster at an angle corresponding to the inclination of the march. To do this, fix a flat board on the edge of the posts, located parallel to the stringer. On this board, cut off the edges of the posts.
- 6. Fasten the handrail to the balusters by screwing in the screws from below at an acute angle.
Finishing - the finishing touch
Now that the staircase is assembled, you need to finish it. First of all, the surface should be carefully sanded. Doing this work with your own hands is quite difficult and long, so use an angle grinder.
Then you need to putty all the cracks, cracks and caps of the screws. If you plan to subsequently open the stairs with varnish, match the putty to the color of the wood. After the putty dries, be sure to sand it with fine sandpaper.
Now you can cover the stairs with paintwork material. It is best to use a water-based varnish - it has good resistance to abrasion, while it dries quickly and has no smell. The only thing is that after applying the first layer of varnish, the stairs need to be sanded again, because under the influence of moisture, the wood fibers rise, as a result of which the surface becomes rough. After that, you need to apply another 1-2 layers of varnish.
In order not to spoil the surface of the stairs, apply varnish with a high-quality paint brush that does not climb out the pile.
On this, ours is ready. As you can see, in general, there is really nothing super complicated in its manufacture.
Today, private country houses are built mainly in two or three floors. And to go upstairs, you need a ladder. Making an interfloor staircase is not an easy task, requiring special knowledge and skills. We need not just any staircase, but a structure that will be both beautiful, and durable, and safe. This ladder will last quite a long time.
Often in country houses and cottages stairs are made of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly product and therefore is widely used in construction. Metal, concrete, plexiglass, ceramics and their various combinations are also used.
Do-it-yourself wooden stairs, the drawings of which you will develop, require certain skills.
There are many types and variations of wooden stairs, and each has its own characteristics. The space where the staircase will be installed is also taken into account, it can be limited or spacious.
Types of stairs that exist in architecture:
- Flight stairs are probably the most common type; they can be one or two spans;
- Spiral stairs - this option is convenient when space is limited;
- Combined stairs - they consist of two or more types of stairs.
Before choosing one or another ladder, you need to evaluate your capabilities. It is best to start with a simple straight staircase, but made of high-quality and reliable material. The space of the house has a certain role, so that after the reconstruction, the stairs do not occupy more than half of the house. To do this, you need your own scheme. You must first make measurements and calculations. And also, for the manufacture of staircase structures on their own, you need to have the appropriate tools, lumber and experience with wood.
How to make a wooden staircase: a drawing of a marching variety
It is much easier to mount a mid-flight staircase with your own hands than a spiral or spiral staircase. This is a simple straight staircase with steps leading to the second floor. The number of steps should not exceed 10. If this happens, then the stairs are divided and a platform is installed between them. It can be: single-march, two-march, three-march or multi-march. This staircase takes up a lot of space in the house. To save space, a swivel type product is constructed. They can be 90 degree turns and are called quarter turn or 180 degree half turn.
How to make a wooden staircase, a drawing for it, and a project? This is a question that requires a competent calculation of the number of steps, marches, the staircase itself and the space it occupies. It is also necessary to think over the design and lighting of the stairs in advance.
All this can be done if you have the materials that your staircase will consist of and the tool necessary for the job. But the most important thing is what parts your staircase will consist of.
The main elements that make up the staircase:
- steps;
- risers;
- Kosour or bowstring;
- railing;
- Balusters;
- Fasteners.
Calculation of a wooden staircase using an online calculator
All houses differ from one another in their architecture, size, layout. Therefore, there cannot be one template for all houses.
The calculation of a wooden staircase consists of several stages, by combining which you can make the necessary drawing with dimensions. The drawing for each staircase is drawn up individually.
You can make an error-free calculation of the stairs using a unique program - an online calculator. This program, processing the entered data, can provide any staircase design and its 3D dwg models. In order for the stairs to be comfortable, beautiful and practical in operation, and also not to cause injuries, you must follow the basic standards and rules.
The main parameters in the calculation:
- The number of steps must be from 3 to 16 and it must be odd;
- The height of the steps is from 12 to 20 cm, the width is 23 to 25 cm;
- The slope of the stairs is 30 - 35 degrees, can be increased to 45 degrees;
- Railings must be at least 90 cm high, and if you have children, you can increase the height to 150 cm.
Many owners want to build their own stairs, so that at the same time it suits their taste, and is safe. And do it without wasting precious time. For this, there is such a program as a calculator.
We develop a drawing of a wooden staircase to the second floor
Making a do-it-yourself drawing of a wooden staircase is one of the smartest decisions. The ladder should be used both for walking on it and for carrying various objects. And for this, the design must be comfortable and durable.
A drawing to the second floor of a wooden staircase can be made by determining the parameters of the staircase. That is, the space that you can allocate under the stairs leading to the second floor.
Then we draw a sectional diagram of the stairs. According to this drawing, the position of the upper and lower steps is determined.
The main thing to note on the drawing:
- slope angle;
- The distance of the upper tier to the floors and floor;
- opening dimensions;
- Number of steps with all parameters;
- The number of marches and the size of the platform between them.
Do-it-yourself wooden staircase calculations (video)
It is necessary to develop a drawing of a staircase that leads to the second floor along with the drafting and layout of the house itself. Then your staircase will perfectly fit into the interior of the room, and will meet all the necessary safety requirements.
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