Today it is very fashionable to decorate fences, gates and garden paths with arches. After all, people want to have beautiful compositions on their plots. It is for this reason that now there are many companies and firms offering different options for solving such problems.

Arches are now used not only as a frame for paths in summer cottages, or as a support for plants. They are also used to decorate fences. The arch also decorates the internal garden fences.

Types of fence decoration

A variety of details are used as decor. Arches and original elements help a lot to decorate the fence. For example, the design of an arched void with forging elements or other material.

Moreover, arched openings can be arranged in each span, although this design sometimes looks overloaded.

Monumental arches give the fence solidity. Even if there is only one arch, only above the gate. It allows you to make the entrance elegant and original.

Different types of arches are arranged both in external fences enclosing the site from the street, and in fences inside the site. Such structures that are built from the same material with a fence look organically.

Plants that wrap around a stone or brick arched vault look beautiful and picturesque. You can also decorate wooden fences with an arch. And they will look very original in the design of the fence.

Features of a brick structure

Among the structures of this type, there are several main types:

• wedge type, when brickwork is carried out in the form of a wedge and fixed with a “lock”;
• bow, while the bricks are laid out along the so-called truncated arc;
• the so-called full (in this case, the height of the arch is equal to half the length of the arched opening).

The stages of work on the arrangement of arches of various types are the same, they have their own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, before starting work on the design of arched openings, it is necessary to decide which type of arch is more suitable for the fence and site, and prepare all the necessary tools and building materials.

Main steps

Schematic representation of masonry fixtures

Work on the installation of brick or masonry is divided into the following stages:

• first, a drawing is made with all dimensions;
• the second step of the process is to make an opening template;
• the template is fixed in place of the future arch;
• work is underway on laying the arch;
• fixing the arched opening;
• after the solution dries, the template is removed;
• covering is being completed.

The arched opening template is made from chipboard sheets and prepared paper patterns. The beauty of the vault will depend on the accuracy of the template. It is made a little smaller than the arched opening. Then it will be easier to remove it after the end of all the work.

It is not so difficult to make such structures on your own. The main thing is to make the formwork correctly.

In the span of the fence, where the arch will be built, four racks are made. And put them on prepared wedges. After the construction of the arched ceiling is completed, the wedges are removed and the racks are easily pulled out.

For several days, the structure will stand in the formwork until the mortar dries. After drying, the parts of the formwork are gradually dismantled, making sure that the structure is not damaged. First, the wedges are pulled out. The formwork is lowered, and everything is easily disassembled. The circles are taken out last.

The laying of the vault usually starts from its edges, on both sides at the same time, gradually moving towards the center of the vault. Bricks must be laid as tightly as possible.

An odd number of bricks or stones should always be placed in the vault. And the uppermost brick should be placed strictly in the middle of the arch.

To make the decoration of a brick fence or gate with an arch look beautiful and elegant, and also be durable, trapezoid bricks are used. They provide a more secure fixation of the entire arched structure. Trapezoidal bricks are sold in special stores and are called wedge.

Erection errors

It is imperative to take into account such dangerous situations when, due to errors that have arisen, arched structures can fall apart:

1. If the arch is insufficient in height of the vault, and the opening is too wide for the selected option, the load on the masonry will not be distributed correctly. Because of this, cracks may form, and the structure will collapse.
2. If metal corners and bases are used for the template, the structure may also be destroyed. But wooden templates will not lead to such a result.
3. Saturated with moisture and swollen, the tree will put pressure on the masonry, violating its integrity. Therefore, before starting laying, the wooden template must be covered with polyethylene so that it is not saturated with moisture.
4. Before starting to lay the opening with an arch, you need to check the strength of the foundation of the arch.

These buildings can be of different styles. But an arched vault, made independently, will decorate any fence in an original way.

Each summer resident strives to decorate and ennoble his site so that work and rest are as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. So that they bring pleasure themselves, and there is something to surprise the guests. One solution may be to use such a decorative element as a garden arch.

Multifunctional in its essence, it is able to add mystery or chic to the site, shady coolness or brightness, become the center of attention or emphasize the selected area.

Probably, few people know that we owe the appearance of the arch to Ancient Mesopotamia, in whose architecture this element entered as far back as the second millennium BC! In landscape design, the garden arch has already taken its rightful place, which is not surprising - with such and such thousands of years of experience.

There are many options for using arches, and describing all the ideas is tedious and pointless, because human imagination knows no bounds. Therefore, I propose to consider the main methods in the context of two parameters:

• by number (single or group);
• for the intended purpose (decor, zoning, shadowing, and others).

And one in the field is a warrior

The most common option is to install free-standing arches to create a spectacular "point" accent both directly on the site itself and when decorating the entrance to the cottage. Twisted with roses, clematis or other climbing plants, the arch will decorate any corner of the garden.

Moreover, there are no restrictions on height or location. Even a meter-long arch is quite capable of attracting increased attention to itself, and it will be installed near the house, in the center of the site or in the farthest corner - there is someone who is much more than that.

An arch for a garden path can also be a good decoration. Especially if the path is surrounded by lawn. Such a bright accent on a green background cannot but attract.

Surprise your guests! Installed on a balcony or veranda, this design looks unusual and very original.

In my opinion, a very good idea is to combine business with pleasure: install an arch above the bench - this is both beautiful and there will be somewhere to hide from the scorching summer sun.

Not inferior to the traditional flower-green options and arches without decoration with plants.

Do you want to create a medieval atmosphere in your country house? In this case, the most successful material for the arch will be stone.

For lovers of oriental style, a simple wooden arch is suitable, and a couple of weigela bushes, rhododendron or adianthium will add Japanese sophistication and grandeur.

Agree, it looks great!

A little feminine trick. The arch, like any element of decor, can not only decorate the garden, but also hide minor flaws or defects in buildings, a fence or another element of a summer cottage.

I would like to highlight the use of the arch in the design of the gate and the fence as a separate block, because it is the entrance area that sets the tone for the entire site.

Making a first impression

The theater begins with a hanger, and the dacha begins with a gate. Using its various types and forms, with the help of an arch, you can achieve any desired impression: chic, style, sophistication or a fairy tale - that's enough imagination. And money :)

A wooden arch in combination with a picket fence looks cozy and gentle. If desired, this design can be supplemented with roses, clematis, honeysuckle or other plants.

Even a simple unpainted wooden gate with an arch entwined with ivy or grapes is quite capable of decorating the entrance. Simple but tasteful!

A large metal arch with a small openwork gate will not hide the site from prying eyes, but will add sophistication. Such an entrance does not even need additional floral decor, it is a chic decoration in itself.

An interesting combination of a stone plinth, a metal fence and an openwork low arch with a gate creates the feeling that these stone steps lead to a fabulous garden, in the depths of which there is certainly a magical house.

Deliberately overgrown arch creates an atmosphere of mystery, doesn't it? However, for this to happen, you have to wait more than one year. And not even two. But I think it's worth it.

The round stone arch and the uneven masonry of the fence look very original and stylish, even without a gate at all.

You can complement such an arch with a wooden round gate with a large round handle in the center. I'm sure Tolkienists would be delighted :)

Meanwhile, I would like to add: the arch at the entrance is spectacular and beautiful beyond any doubt, but in pursuit of the idea, one should not forget about harmony. No matter how beautiful and elegant a wooden arch is, it will look rather ridiculous against the background of a metal fence, right? Organicity is an important condition, do not neglect it.

In fact, there are many more options for using free-standing arches. There would be a desire, but there is an arch :) You can buy ready-made ones, order according to your own project or make it yourself, creating your own unique style. Don't be afraid to improvise!

However, arches are used not only individually, but also in groups.

When quantity matters

The decorative value of garden arches can hardly be overestimated. But besides aesthetic pleasure, they are quite capable of solving a number of other issues. For example, by installing several arches in a row, we will create a small tunnel. Such a corridor can be organized both at the entrance and above any garden path or area. By the way, this design is called.

With the help of arches, it is quite possible to make even a whole alley that will visually lengthen the space. And if you improvise with combinations of climbing plants, you can get a kind of flower greenhouse. Then the alley will delight not only with a cool shadow, but also with beautiful bright compositions.

I think no one would refuse to take a walk on a hot summer day through such a flower gallery.

And if you add a bench to this beauty, you get a wonderful seating area.

If there is no desire to limit the space on both sides, it is quite possible to put a series of arches along the path. Get a beautiful flower wall.

Zoning, that is, the conditional division of the space of a summer cottage into functional parts, is an important issue for the vast majority of summer residents. I think it is clear that the construction of capital walls or blind partitions is at least impractical, moreover, one should not forget about the appearance of the garden as a whole. Arches will help to solve the problem of zoning the garden space.

So, for example, an arch can separate the flower part from the garden part. This looks aesthetically pleasing and will increase the number of crops that can be planted in the border areas without fear that cucumbers will suddenly begin to ripen on your favorite roses :)

You can also mark the recreation area with arches. I am sure that such an arched gazebo will certainly become a favorite pastime.

But zoning can be carried out not only on the entire garden plot as a whole, but also within any one part of it. Here is an example where a group of keeled wooden arches divides the garden area into beds. Comfortable and looks interesting.

And these are far from all the ways to use arches (you can write a whole treatise!). I hope that a little digression was useful and not too tired. More information can be found in the articles.

The garden plot begins with a gate or gate. Beautiful fences perform several functions at the same time: they keep people and pets from trampling plants, prevent strangers from entering the site and act as a kind of visiting card of the garden.

Basic requirements for the installation of garden gates

Garden gates in most cases are small structures. The width of this design is about one meter, sometimes one and a half. One person must pass through the gate, a bicycle, a stroller must pass, and garden equipment must be placed unhindered. Entrance gates, unlike garden gates, have a width of about three meters - a car can freely pass through them.

When creating a garden gate, a number of requirements must be observed:

• the height of the gate should not exceed 180 cm;
• the dimensions of the gate/wicket are set taking into account the height of the fence;
• if a drain is laid along the fence, then it is necessary to equip a special complaint along the gate / gate;
• an important condition for the reliability and durability of the gate is the strength of the supporting pillars, they must withstand the weight of the garden fence, wind loads and other natural conditions;
• aesthetic appearance and compliance with the landscape design of the garden.

When choosing a garden gate, it is necessary to evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of different models of fences. All gates are classified according to two main features: design features and material of manufacture.

Garden gate designs: characteristics and features of operation

According to the type of opening, the gates are divided into swing and folding. The most popular first option is the gate swing garden. This model is considered classical and has a number of significant advantages:

• simplicity of design and reliability;
• ease of use and maintainability;
• attractive appearance;
• the ability to connect an automatic drive to adjust the position of the flaps remotely;
• affordable cost of making your own hands or buying a finished model - the design does not include complex and expensive mechanisms.

Garden sliding gate indispensable in cases where there is no room to open the sash. The door leaf moves parallel to the fence itself. The basis of the design is a console and a hidden mechanism on rollers. Thanks to the rollers, the gate closes/opens easily. Additional design benefits:

• sheathing of the canvas can be made from any sheet material: wood, corrugated board, polycarbonate, siding, aluminum, etc.;
• gate operation is easy to automate;
• compact design;
• in winter, there is no need to clear the space from snow to open the gate;
• A properly installed door leaf can withstand strong gusts of wind.

It should be noted that retractable structures have some disadvantages:

• for the construction of the gate, you will need to purchase a special kit (guide rail, roller bearings, supporting rollers, etc.), and these are additional costs;
• it is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the roller bearings;
• to roll back the gate panel, free space is required along the fence - trees, flowers, benches, etc. should not grow there.

An important point is the type of gate sheathing. Garden fences are of lattice type and deaf.

lattice gate usually installed in suburban areas. Through this design, the garden is visible, at the same time, the fence prevents outsiders from entering the site. Advantages of lattice gates:

• aesthetic appearance;
• lattice fabric, as a rule, is cheaper than a “deaf” one;
• the gate does not create a shadow and is not afraid of wind loads;
• lattice structures are more versatile - they fit many styles of site design.

According to some gardeners, the only drawback of lattice gates is their transparency. This minus is devoid blind structures, consisting of a continuous canvas without holes. The backyard area is not visible behind a deaf fence - an additional feeling of coziness and comfort is created. To make the gate look more organic against the backdrop of the landscape design of the garden, they are decorated with various decorative elements.

An interesting option is a mixed type gate. As a rule, the design of such gates includes a solid bottom and a translucent lattice top. With their help, it will be possible to prevent viewing the site and reduce the strength of the wind.

Types of garden gates

Decorative gates: metal and wooden

Decorative gates are often installed to visually distinguish between the local area and the garden. Most options are easy enough to make yourself.

A garden gate made of a wooden fence includes the following elements: installation posts, struts, crossbars, fences, metal / wooden hinges and strapping bars.

The main load-bearing element of the structure is the pillars. Hinges are fixed on them and the gate leaf is hung. Usually the poles are made from the same materials as the gate. In addition, the supporting pillars are built of concrete or brick. The installation of metal poles is carried out from pipes of square / rectangular section with a size of at least 100 * 100 mm.

Important! During the installation of support pillars, their lower part must be treated with a protective coating - a bitumen composition. This measure will protect the metal from corrosion and destruction.

Wooden supports are best made from solid wood species: chestnut, oak, larch. When using spruce or pine, the posts must be treated with an antiseptic and then painted. An important condition for a long service life is the regular renewal of the paint layer.

More difficult and painstaking work, which takes additional time, is the construction of supporting pillars made of bricks. For reliable fixation of the supports, it is necessary to lay a foundation with a depth of at least 0.5 m. Relative to the perimeter of the column, the protrusion of the foundation must be at least 0.15 m. Concrete support pillars are purchased ready-made.

Metal gates made of chain-link mesh or corrugated board are very easy to manufacture. For its construction, you will need a minimum of materials and tools:

• metal profile 20 * 40 mm, chain-link mesh with mesh sizes - 60 * 60 mm or a sheet of corrugated board;
• welding machine, grinder or hacksaw.

Garden gates with arches

There are many ways to decorate and emphasize the individuality of a suburban area. One of the popular options among gardeners and summer residents are gates with arches. This design of the garden gate gives the site an aura of sophistication and romance.

We list the main types of arches for garden gates. Traditionally, the arches are arched or in the form of the letter P. To create an arch above the gate, a variety of materials are used. It can be carved from wood or, following the rustic style, made from curved poles.

More complex, spectacular gates with arches are made of forged metal with floral, geometric or other ornaments.

Stone arches look fundamental. The gate in this case is made of wood or metal with artistic forging elements.

The landscape design of the garden will be harmoniously complemented by a gate with a flower arch. Climbing plants wrap around lattice wooden or metal structures. Ornamental shrubs and flowers are more often planted: climbing rose, ivy, parthenocissus and clematis.

Japanese style gate

For a personal plot, designed in a strict oriental style, Japanese gates are suitable. For many centuries, this element of the structure has played an important symbolic role, remaining the main detail of the Japanese garden.

The symbol of Japan, the torii gate, has a simple design. On two wooden racks there are two crossbars. Wood is usually used as the basis of the structure. The following materials are suitable for the roof: iron, copper, tes, massive and small tiles.

Landscape design experts advise adding oriental notes to the design of the garden and beat the gate with ornamental plants:

• plant frost-resistant varieties of bamboo along the fence;
• you can experiment with perennial shrubs of different shades, if they are within the same color range;
• shrubs with lush color are suitable as bright spots: Japanese quince, action, barberry or euonymus;
• near the Japanese gate, stones will always look appropriate - it can be a path strewn with rubble or fine gravel, a rockery or a rock garden.

When choosing a garden gate, you need to pay attention to some aspects:

How to make a gate to the garden plot

Wooden garden gate

For the manufacture of wooden gates, it is enough to have a little carpentry skills. It is better to build fences from oak, larch or cedar - such wood is resistant to environmental influences.

List of required materials and tools:

• boards / picket fence;
• support poles (metal profile or timber);
• corners and loops;
• emery, planer, chisel;
• jigsaw or hacksaw
• drill and screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• rope, building level, tape measure.

The first step is to prepare the boards - soak them with a moisture-resistant primer that will protect the wood from premature decay.

The base of the gate - the frame can be wooden or metal. The choice depends on the type of construction and the preferences of the performer. For sliding gates, a metal frame is made, for swing gates - at your own discretion.

Work sequence:

1. Installation of support poles:
   • measure the distance between the supports (gate width) and dig two holes about 1 m deep;
   • strew the bottom of the pits with bricks and parts of concrete;
   • install the pillars, sprinkle them with earth and level with the help of the building level;
   • pour concrete solution and leave to harden for 5 days.
2. Sash manufacturing:
   • build a frame from wooden boards or more durable - from a metal profile; cut the metal according to the drawing of the gate, lay out the profile on a flat surface, check the evenness of the diagonals and weld the joints by welding;
   • start winding the boards onto the base, starting from the edge;
   • using a drill in the center of the board, drill a through hole, make a corresponding opening in the frame;
   • screw in the screws.
3. Loop installation:
   • disconnect the loops;
   • weld/screw one part of the hinge to the support, the other to the frame of the door leaf.
4. Mount the handle for opening the door and the deadbolt for fixing the gate in the closed position.

DIY garden gate: video

Garden metal gates

Let's consider the procedure for creating a gate using a tension net-netting. The dimensions of the future design are: width - 98 cm, length - 142 cm.

Step by step progress of work:

1. Cut off two pieces of a 98 cm metal profile with a grinder. These will be the lower / upper transverse profiles of the gate.
2. Cut off an additional profile - 90 cm. This element is necessary to strengthen the structure.
3. Cut out the side parts of the frame - 142 cm each.
4. If paint has been applied to the profile, then it must be rubbed off at the welding points.
5. Lay out the structure on a flat surface and weld it with spot welding.
6. In the corners of the structure, weld "kerchiefs" to give strength.
7. Separate the garage hinges, screw one part of the hinge with screws to the support post, the other to the gate. After that - finally weld by welding.
8. Clean the seams with a grinding disc, cover the gate with enamel to prevent rust.
9. Pull the chain-link mesh onto the frame:
   • measure one meter of the web, remove the wire from the grid and disconnect the piece from the roll;
   • attach the mesh to the frame and fix it with plastic clips or wire.
10. Mount the lock and handle on the gate.

Garden gates: photo ideas for decorating a summer cottage

Good day dear readers!

Often orders come in to build a large brick arch above the gate in the garage.

Since the arch is large (about 3 m), some nuances must be taken into account so that it is beautiful and durable.

In this article, I will share my experience, namely:

Why can the arch above the garage door sag and burst?

- How to make an arch with your own hands stronger and more reliable.

1) Width and height of the garage door arch, for a car.

The arch in the photo above is 3 m wide. According to the project, the initial width of the arch in the garage should have been 2.5 m, but this is narrow. It is not clear why, but on many house projects, the entrance gate to the garage is 2.5 m wide.

We almost always make it wider. If possible, it is better to make the width of the entrance to the garage at least 3 m.

Gate height:

In the place where the arch begins to turn, then from the clean floor to the beginning of the arch 2 160 mm.

At the highest point from the finished floor to the top of the arch 2462 mm.

2) The radius of the arch.

Almost all customers want the arc of the arch to be minimal, but the more the arch is positioned (lower), the weaker it is. They built a very low arch in the garage about five years ago. The height of the arc was only 200 mm, the width of the gate was about 3 m, it was a brick high (double).

After 3 years, the arch sank a little and a small hairline crack appeared above it. Of course, she will not fall, but it is still not pleasant that this happened.

Therefore, in this article we make the arch a little higher - 312 mm. This is the height of the arch from its beginning to its highest point.

We make a wooden template for the arch from chipboard, insert wooden blocks for volume and nail the fiberboard on top with small nails.

We will remove the wooden template on the same day when we rolled the arch. To do this, before building an arch, it is necessary to build stubs so that you can quickly compress the brick arch and remove the template.

We expose the template.

After we have built the sheltered lines, we have made a template, we install it in the opening.

Nuance: if we want to roll the arch and remove the template on the same day, it is best to start in the morning. So that the brick arch would stand for 4 - 5 hours and the mortar would seize.

If the materials from which the arch will be built are cleaned of the mortar normally, then the arch can be removed the next day. Cleaning the arch the next day will take twice as long, as the mortar becomes stronger every day.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the weight of our arch, since we used the usual edged shalevka (board thickness 25 mm) as supports. If the arch is wide, low, double in height (brick), then it can have a decent weight.

In order not to break the template and withstand the racks, it is better to estimate the approximate weight of the arch. In our case, the brick in the mortar arch will weigh approximately 270 kg. The template weighs about 30 kg.

Approximately 150 kg will press on each rack. In principle, this is not a lot of weight. It is necessary to pay attention that there is no debris under the racks and that they fit snugly against the base so that the fresh arch does not sag.

4) We make the heels of the arch.

First of all, we make the heels of the arch, on which the arch will rest.

But here there is one nuance. To make such a beautiful heel, you need to slightly cut two bricks so that the arch sits a little lower.

We cut with a grinder one brick on the window frame (horizontal) and one on a wooden template. We do the same for the second heel on the left. Nothing complicated.

If nothing is cut, then the body of the brick is not enough and small triangles will appear in the very corner of the heel (outside).

Before you start building an arch, you need to calculate the number of bricks that will go to the arch, so as not to cut the brick, but so that it is all intact. Since our arch is very large, we can easily play on the seams, namely, make them a little thicker or a little thinner.

We can also make even or odd number of bricks if needed. Usually this is calculated if it is necessary to insert a crown (three bricks) in the middle of the arch, then it is necessary to lay an odd number of bricks.

It is also desirable to make not very thick seams on large arches. The lower seam, where the brick touches the wooden template, the thickness of the seam is desirable from 3 mm to 6 mm. So we measure the top of the template with a tape measure and see that 45 bricks fit (not counting the heels). Seam thickness (bottom) 5 mm.

If necessary, we can reduce the thickness of the joint by only 1.5 mm and squeeze another brick into the arch (46 pieces). Or vice versa, increase the thickness of the seam by 1.5 mm and reduce the number of bricks in the arch by one piece (44 bricks). Visually it will be beautiful and so and so.

After everything is counted, we mark the risks on the template with a tape measure and a pencil every five bricks. These risks will help to keep order and lay as many bricks in the arch as we have decided.

We build an arch from the heels to the center, adhering to the marked risks through five bricks.

In the middle we put the last brick called the key brick.

Particular attention must be paid to sealing the last seam in the key brick so that it is properly sealed.

To remove the template on the same day, it is necessary to compress the arch with a facing brick.

An important point: the weakest point is near the arch. Since there is a large opening (gate) in the wall, it weakens the wall.

Please note that on most old buildings (one and five-story) under the windows, in the openings on the outer walls, there are almost always cracks. Large windows and receptions weaken the wall.

Therefore, for strength, we lay reinforcement over the arch in brickwork with a diameter of 6 mm. In total, we have three rows of bricks above the arch, and one rebar (6 mm) can be laid in each row. Length of armature from pilaster to pilaster.

Since the reinforcement is smooth (has no ribs), it clings weaker in the brickwork. Therefore, it is best to bend the ends of the reinforcement (like the letter “p” with a tail).

Now the interesting point: note that above the arch there is a yellowish brick (straight) cut. That is, 7 light bricks in the middle, above the arch, in each row are cut off by a grinder and have a size of 220 mm. This is because I made a mistake when I laid a brick at the bottom of the gate (under ventilation).

When we began to compress the arch, it turned out not to be a multiplicity above it - a check of 50 mm. If we hadn’t cut off seven bricks in each row, then a small check of 50 mm in size would have turned out above the arch, and this is not permissible, since it immediately catches the eye.

Since the distance between the pilasters is not a multiple of a whole brick, it was necessary to make not a check (50 mm), but a three-four (170 mm) above the arch. But if we laid one three-four in each row above the arch, then this would also be striking.

It was planned to make not one three-four over the arch in each row, but for example three, so that it would not be so noticeable.

Summary: I am sure that you did not notice in the first (top) photo that the brick above the arch was cut. Thanks to this little trick (trimming bricks), you can correct the flaws in the masonry of the walls so that there are no checks and visually everything is beautiful.

The more three-fours you cut off, the less imperfections in the front masonry will be noticeable.

6) We make a reinforced concrete belt over the arch.

After we have built the front brickwork, it is necessary to tie the backing masonry inside the garage, between each other with a reinforced concrete belt.

The front arch protrudes 40 mm from the outside, and 90 mm goes inside. Unfortunately, we cannot insulate the wall above the arch itself. All the outer walls of the garage are insulated with mineral wool, but it doesn’t work over the arch, we will consider the reason below:

The gates for this garage will be automatic, sectional, going up. The door leaf is a sandwich panel with insulation inside.

In the photo above, we see a backing brick in the corners above the arch - we did this for alignment. Since this backing brick above the arch will be visible (when the gate is open), it must be lined with either tiles or plaster for painting.

Therefore, we drowned the backing brick a little so that the cladding (tile or plaster) was flush with the front masonry (it will be clearer later).

In the photo above, you can see that the reinforcement frame breaks above the arch, but you can’t break the belt! Therefore, we put a mesh of reinforcement vertically above the arch instead of a frame.

We make the mesh above the arch from the same reinforcement as the frame with a diameter of 12 mm. In the frame we have four cores of ribbed reinforcement, in the grid we also make four cores, but vertically.

We put the formwork over the arch:

We remove the formwork in 2 - 3 days
The result is a beautiful w / w belt. Above the arch, the belt is no worse than the belt on the walls. The top of the garage is well connected.

Why did we drown the reinforced concrete belt above the arch?

The fact is that the door leaf will enter this niche and, when closed, adjoin the acre and the niche. If you make a reinforced concrete belt above the arch, the same as on the walls, then the gate will not close.

The second option: you can make a reinforced concrete belt of the same width as on the walls, then it (reinforced concrete) must be made 300 mm higher. Then it is necessary to lift up the entire garage by 300 mm, and this is an extra cost overrun.

The garage floor will be wooden, the roof will also be wooden, and the roof will be metal.

Conclusion.

As a result, we got a beautiful and durable arch above the garage door. In the front masonry, the arch is connected with reinforcement and inside is connected with a reinforced concrete belt.

Today in this article you learned how to make an arch with your own hands.

When you have an apartment, you certainly want to make it cozier, more comfortable and bigger. Currently, one of the ways to visually enlarge your home is to create arches instead of doors.

Various photos of arches show how diverse they are and how much they change the appearance of housing. It is about how to make an arch with your own hands that will be briefly described below.

arch types

The arch is an opening in the wall that does not have an overlap in the form of a door. Their views differ only in the upper part, or rather in how the corners are built (straight, rounded or curly).

In the modern world, there are 7 types of arches:

• classic;
• "modern";
• "romance";
• ellipse;
• trapezoid;
• "portal";
• semi-arc.

The first four types have rounded corners and differ only in the form of rounding.

So the classic arch is a semicircle with a radius of half the width of the opening; "modern" has a small corner radius; "romance" and ellipse are similar to each other and represent the usual rounded corners.

Another thing is the trapezoid and the portal. These two types use sharp corners. In the trapezoid, the top, respectively, represents this figure, and the “portal” is an ordinary opening without a door.

However, even an unremarkable "portal" can be made to sparkle with new colors, giving the pillars the appearance of columns in the ancient style (Greek or Roman).

The trapezoid, although it is a rather unusual solution, is not suitable for any style, therefore it is used much less often than other arch options.

The last type is a semi-arch, as the name implies, it consists of 1 rounded and 1 right angle. This type of arch began to be used recently, but it has already gained popularity.

It is up to you to decide which arch to install in the apartment, but we will dwell in more detail on drywall arches, as the most convenient material for building.

Step by step instructions for creating an arch

We choose the future shape of the arch. It is important that it fits the general style of the premises that will connect.

We clean the opening from the plaster and level it. It's simple here - the cleaner the surface of the work, the more reliable the mount.

We fix the arch frame. We build the frame itself from a profile (it can be made from wood bars).

We attach a cut-out drywall arch to the frame (one side). To get the arch of the desired type, in the middle of the drywall base we make a hole for the nail. We tie a rope to it and get a homemade compass. Now, by changing the length of the rope, you can change the radius of rounding corners and their appearance.

We apply drywall on the other side and mark on it, as if on a stencil, an arch, after which we cut it out and attach it to the frame.

In no case should this be done on the floor, since the opening is usually asymmetrical, which has the most detrimental effect on the accuracy of one-to-one markings.

Note!

We measure the resulting arc and make a tape for fastening from the profile. After that, we attach the resulting tape to the arch of the arch with self-tapping screws.

Install jumpers. Their size is calculated simply: the depth of the arch is minus 1.5 centimeters, the material of manufacture is a metal profile, less often wood. We attach a sheet of drywall to the end of the opening with self-tapping screws.

We carry out finishing work (leveling with putty, overwriting possible holes, painting, or gluing wallpaper).

Other ways to make an arch

You can also make an arch in the opening in two other ways. The difference between these methods of creating an arch in fixing drywall.

In the second version, it is attached to the jumpers not with a whole sheet, but with specially cut pieces (set) using a special solution (water, putty plus PVA glue) and this should be done without delay, since the solution hardens very quickly.

Note!

The third option provides for wooden lintels planted on glue. Drywall in the opening to the lintels is also glued.

How to bend drywall?

In addition, the question may arise: how to bend drywall? Thin cardboard (6 mm) is best suited for this.

And there are at least 2 ways to bend it:
Method 1 - roll a roller on cardboard to break the gypsum in it, soak it in water and gradually screw it to the tape with screws.

Method 2 - make cuts on drywall every 4-5 centimeters. When you attach to the end of the opening, the material at the place of the cuts will burst and better adhere to the wall surface.

We wish you good luck with your work!

Do-it-yourself arch photo

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