The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink should be given special attention, since it (the partition) separates the premises so different in terms of functionality. Such a partition can be made of bricks, boards, timber and even foam blocks. The choice of this or that material depends, first of all, on what the bath itself is built from. If it's a log house or frame structure, then it is better to use a tree so as not to violate general concept, and brick is more suitable for a brick bath.
Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink (wooden version)
In addition, the type of heater in the steam room is also important. When it comes to traditional brick oven, then it is itself a partition. In this case, you just need to report it until a full-fledged wall is formed. In case of iron stove(this option is preferred) the partition should be at least 10 cm away from it for fire safety purposes. Here the partition can be both frame and from ordinary boards.
In the photo - a brick oven and a brick partition 
On a note! For brick partition it is recommended to use red brick, not silicate (the fact is that the latter is unburnt, which is why it is characterized by rather low rates of thermal insulation and moisture resistance).
The design described below is a wooden frame sheathed with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.
Design features
| Design features | A photo |
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| The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, which will be 10 cm high and 12.5 cm wide. The curb is necessary not only to strengthen the structure, but also to lay tiles along it after completion of work, which will isolate the tree from water. |
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| This threshold can be built both when pouring the screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), and directly during installation, having built a formwork from boards. For better adhesion to concrete, the formwork walls must be coated with a deep primer and concrete contact (for example, manufactured by Knauf). |
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| The base will be attached to the curb with anchors (1.6 cm). The end posts will be inserted into specially made grooves in the walls and secured with hex screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the uprights themselves be oval and longitudinal - so the frame will not be an obstacle to the fall of the log house. In this case, the screws will slide with the walls, there will be no excessive load on the frame, as well as on the structure as a whole. |
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| The upper horizontal beam of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the resulting gap, the expansion or settlement of the log house under the influence of atmospheric phenomena will be compensated. Therefore, vertical grooves in the walls are made along the entire height - from the floor to the ceiling. |
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| For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool 10 cm thick. Dimensions of individual cells future design are 120x60 cm and correspond to the standard dimensions of the insulation boards. On both sides, the cotton wool should be covered with plastic wrap and fixed with a mounting stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, preserve the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material. |
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| The lining will be fixed with kleimers to a crate made of slats 2.5x5 cm. The crate itself must be mounted on top of the film and fixed on the frame using wood screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the structure using the tongue-and-groove technology. From the steam room, the lower beam of the crate is attached to the floor, and from the sink it is laid on the curb and fixed only to vertical supports. |
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| After installing the door frame, the final finishing is carried out. First you need to install skirting boards (one end should be inserted into the groove of the wall), then the edges of the structure are overlapped by platbands (the latter also need to be inserted into the grooves). |
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| The platband in the upper part of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only on condition that it will move with it, without having any effect on the wall itself. The gap formed between the structure and the ceiling must be sealed with cotton wool or any other thermal insulation material. |
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| Wooden elements will be connected with galvanized self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can also be used to connect open elements. To "hide" the heads of the screws, stepped holes should be made in advance in the appropriate places; when all the screws are screwed in, they will need to be closed with wooden pins of the required size. |
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Stage one. Preparatory work
First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.
Step 1.In opposite walls, grooves are marked and cut with a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific height of the ceiling, but on average it is 250 cm).
Step 2. Next, you need to install the formwork to create a base for the structure, while taking into account the doorway (94 cm). If the floor of the sink is covered with concrete, then the formwork should be installed along the edge of the screed.
Step 3The floor surface in the formwork must be treated with concrete contact and a deep primer. To make the bond more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer dowels in there and screw in the screws ½.
Step 4After that, the formwork must be poured with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it must be covered with roofing material in two layers.
Stage two. Frame construction
Step 1.The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks must be installed on the curb, marked and made similar holes there.
Step 2The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.
Step 3Next, the supporting frame of the structure is constructed. To do this, the end posts (their dimensions are 6x10x235 cm) are installed on the base and fastened with hex screws. A washer is placed under each screw.
Step 4An opening is made under door frame- vertical racks are placed, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance on each side is 1 cm larger than the frame dimensions.
Step 5With the help of self-tapping screws, the frame jumper is attached to the tree.
On a note! At this stage Special attention should be given to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design will turn out.
Prices for wood screws
wood screws
Stage three. Thermal insulation. Lathing installation
Step 1.Mineral wool mats must be laid in the cells. If necessary, the material is trimmed with a mounting knife.
Step 2Attached to the frame on both sides polyethylene film(this must be done with a stapler), after which it spreads from top to bottom.
Step 3The crate is installed in compliance with a step of 40 cm.
On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed even at the frame assembly stage - this will simultaneously solve the problem of fixing it in the lower part of the structure.
Stage four. door frame
Step 1. With an opening size of 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm there (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking the verticality / r horizontality and fixing the frame to the racks, all the formed gaps must be blown out mounting foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off with a mounting knife.
Step 2Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), the open elements of the opening are blocked from washing with planed boards 60x30 mm. In doing so, special attention is paid to the fact that vertical plane, which runs along the outer edges of the boards, must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.
Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles
Finishing can be carried out both after the installation of the lining, and before it. It is important that the junction of the forcing and the end of the tile is made with ultimate precision and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.
Stage six. Clapboard lining
The installation of the lining begins from the corner and is carried out using the tongue-to-groove technology. This means that the spike of each next sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the crate is carried out using iron clamps.
The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without hats (to avoid accidental burns) or ordinary self-tapping screws, subject to subsequent closure with pins.
Prices for lining
Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Finishing the edges of the structure
Step 1.For platbands, the same lining that was used in the decoration is suitable. By means of a circular, the lining should be cut to length, and then the edges should be cleaned manual router(using a radius cutter). The vertical platband is joined to the horizontal strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.
Step 2Skirting boards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is wooden) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).
Step 3. Along the edges of the structure, vertical-type platbands must be inserted into the grooves of the walls, and then attached to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the twisted screws are hidden with wooden pins.
Step 4The slats installed at the top of the structure will only perform a decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes on it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.
On the picture - ceiling plinth in the steam room
The described option is suitable for a log cabin of a bathhouse that has already been upset and matured for the required time. The compensation gap that must be left between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is necessary in case of a change in the dimensions of the log house itself. If full sediment has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.
Can be used as cladding ordinary boards. Both they and the lining should only be from hardwood, because softwood releases resin at high temperatures. We also note that all the bars in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic.
Cash prices
architraves
The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink can also be made of brick. Here it is better to use a spoon laying in ½ bricks (or, alternatively, in a whole brick). Such a design will weigh quite a lot, therefore, in order to facilitate it, you can use a hollow brick.
Stage one. Training
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all work surfaces. Removed from the floor boardwalk to the very foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Further workplace equipped with good lighting, all items that are not needed in the work are taken out of the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.
Stage two. Solution
To work, you will need the following equipment:
- sieve;
- Sander;
- shovel;
- mixing tank.
Step 1.First you need to sift the sand in order to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine-mesh chain-link mesh and 4 bars. The sand is carefully sieved.
Step 3The mixing ratio is 3:1. First, six buckets of sand and two of cement should be poured. Water is added, the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.
Step 4. The solution is kneaded to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but you should not add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.
Stage three. Construction
For this step, you need the following tools:
- level;
- pick;
- trowel;
- plumb;
- rule.
| Step, No. | Description | Illustration |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1. | The twine is pulled - it will be a guide. The solution is laid and leveled with a trowel, the horizontalness is checked. Then you need to wait a bit for the solution to seize. |
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| Step 2 | Another layer is applied on top of it and the laying of row No. 1 begins. |
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| Step 3 | The first brick with mortar applied to the end is laid on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tapped and leveled along the twine, the excess mortar is immediately removed. |
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| Step 4 | If a doorway is planned (and most partitions have it), then it must be set in advance. Using spacers, you should install the door frame. It is checked for horizontal / vertical, if necessary, its position is corrected. |
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| Step 5 | The brick is laid close to the box. To bind a partition to it or to wooden walls metal strips are used: they should be bent and screwed to the side surfaces so that they (the strips) are between the bricks; you can also use reinforcing bars. |
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| Step 6 | At the end of the laying of row No. 1, the brick is broken into two parts with a pickaxe. One of these halves begins the second row. The string stretched horizontally is carried higher to make it easier to navigate. The third row begins in the same way as the first. |
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On a note! Bandaging masonry is a must. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will turn out to be more durable.
- Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
- The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and auxiliary reinforcement can be used for the door frame (ideally, this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
- The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks soaked in concrete beforehand. Pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated with cement mortar.
Video - We put a partition in ½ brick
Foam blocks (from gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, with a slight (compared to brick) weight, they have about Larger dimensions, which means that laying will be carried out much faster.
The standard blocks are 300 mm high and 600 mm long. The thickness depends on the type of room where the partition is planned, but in most cases products of 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm are used. The cost of foam blocks ranges from 21.5-49.5 rubles, depending on the thickness.
The laying procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.
Prices for foam blocks
foam blocks
Stage one. markup
First, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is pulled and the doorway is marked. In accordance with the markup "dry", the first row of blocks is laid out, if necessary, trimming is performed. A grinder is suitable for this, although it is better to use a hacksaw for stone. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw is used.
In place of the future structure, waterproofing is placed (roofing material is suitable) in two layers.
Stage two. Mounting
For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. The glue must be kneaded with an electric drill with a special mixer nozzle. The adhesive composition is applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, the verticality / horizontality is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ of the width of the product in order to make the partition more durable.
Where the partition joins the main walls, binding is performed with pieces of reinforcement or large nails. To do this, holes are made in the walls, reinforcement with glue is inserted there by at least 50 mm. Recesses can be made in the blocks themselves, although it is preferable to place the products directly on the rods that stick out of the walls.
On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the bars must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.
Stage three. Plaster
For plaster, you can use the same adhesive solution, with which the laying was carried out. If necessary, channels are created for laying communications. At the end of the plaster, the surface is dried, puttied, painted or tiled.
plaster prices
plaster
In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a foam block partition can be built directly on wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.
- When buying blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces, the better the finish will be.
- The dimensions of the blocks depend on the place of installation, while the density does not play any role.
- It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
- If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
- The blocks of each new row must be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
- It is advisable to leave a small gap between the partition and the ceiling (about 100 mm), which must be filled with mounting foam.
Video - Laying partitions from foam blocks
The division of the internal space of the bath building is carried out using partitions. We will tell you about their types, features and device in this article.
Design of partitions in the bath
Before you make partitions in the bath, you need to determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe planned premises. Their size depends on the size of the building and the number of regular visitors. Based on these data, on the plan, bulkheads are tied to existing walls baths with indication of axial dimensions. Then the position is determined doorways and quantity required material.
As partitions in the bath can be used:
- Transformable structures - sliding, soft folding, rigid folding, retractable and screens.
- Stationary structures - brick, wooden and glass partitions.
Each of the types of stationary bath partitions has a number of advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account when choosing the type and material of manufacture of a particular design. Since the main part of the bath bulkheads is stationary, it becomes necessary to talk about them in more detail.
Features of a brick partition in the bath
Brick partitions are made not only in stone baths, but also in log cabins. This is especially true in cases where the door of the furnace firebox is removed from the steam room to the dressing room or rest room, and the dividing wall is combined with the heater.
Advantages and disadvantages of brick partitions for a bath
Their advantages are due to excellent physical characteristics:
- Brick partitions have good soundproofing properties. Half-brick bulkhead structures have a “noise” insulation index of 47dB.
- Brick is moisture resistant material. With a high-quality bath ventilation device, the appearance of fungus and mold on such a partition is unlikely.
- Brick bulkheads are fire resistant and inedible to insects and rodents.
- Significant weight of the partition: with its thickness of half a brick, the mass of 1 m 2 of masonry is approximately 280 kg.
- Long time for the manufacture of partitions from piece material.
- The need for plastering the structure before finishing it.
The cost of 1 m 2 of brickwork is from $ 10 and more, the cost of work is from $ 7 per 1 m 2.
The device of a brick partition in the bath
For the construction of such a partition, laying in half-brick or brick is used. Before starting work, stock up on: a sand sieve, a container for preparing a solution, a shovel, a hammer, a plumb line, a level and a trowel.
The installation process is carried out in the following sequence:
- The place of work is freed from unnecessary items, supplied with lighting and necessary materials.
- On the walls, floor and ceiling of the bath, the contours of the planned partition are outlined.
- From the sand and cement sifted with a sieve, a dry mixture is prepared in a ratio of 3: 1, for example, 2 buckets of cement are taken for 6 buckets of sand. In the container, the resulting mixture is mixed with water to a uniform state and a plastic consistency.
- Before starting work, the floor must be removed wood flooring, and from the walls - sheathing at the junction of structures. Surfaces are cleaned with a wet broom.
- For even laying of the first row of masonry, a cord is stretched along its edges, which serves as a guide for the location of the bricks. The solution of the first row is applied to the base of the partition, and the second and subsequent rows - to the surface of the previous row and the end part of the brick. The control of the verticality of the masonry is carried out using a plumb line and a building level.
- The door frame in the opening of the partition is set in advance and fixed in it with the help of spacers, the brick is laid close to it.
- The laying of the partition is carried out with dressing of the seams in the vertical direction. To achieve this effect, the second row of bricks must begin with laying half of the product.
- For the strength of the masonry, every five rows of the mortar bed is reinforced with steel strips or rods.
- Above the door frame, as a jumper, you can install a piece of channel 30-40 cm long more than the width of the opening.
- The ceiling gap on the last row of masonry is eliminated by laying brick waste soaked in the solution, small gaps are sealed with tow.
- For laying communications in a brick partition, it is necessary to provide for the installation of embedded sleeves. The material for them can be pieces of plastic pipes with a length corresponding to the thickness of the partition. The voids between the sleeves and the masonry are filled with mounting foam.
On the side of the washing compartment, the partitions are usually covered tiles that protects the brick from moisture. In the steam room, such a partition is insulated, sheathed with foil heat-reflecting and waterproof material, followed by its lining with natural wood.
Features of a wooden partition in the bath
Bulkheads made of wood can be single, double or frame-sheathed. For baths, due to their "extreme" operating conditions, frame-sheathing structures are more suitable.
Pros and cons of wooden partitions for a bath
The advantages of such partitions are very significant:
- Their material is environmentally friendly.
- Ability to perform in the bath frame partition with increased strength, withstanding more than 150 kg of cargo.
- Light weight wooden partition. With its thickness of 150 mm, the weight of 1 m 2 of the structure is 90-92 kg.
- Good sound insulation, its index reaches 41dB.
- Wooden structures are afraid of water, so they need waterproofing.
- The material of the partitions is edible for rodents and insects, impregnation of wood with antiseptics can get rid of this problem.
- Wooden partitions are combustible, their fire resistance is 0.2 hours. Partial protection against fire is the impregnation of the elements of the partitions with flame retardant.
The cost of 1 m 2 of a wooden partition is from $ 20 and above, it depends on the sheathing material.
The device of a wooden partition in the bath
Consider the device of a wooden partition between the steam room and the sink in the bath. The step by step process looks like this:
- Assembly and fastening of the frame. This is the most laborious stage of work. For the frame, a beam of 50x50 mm or 50x100 mm is used, its assembly is carried out on site. Two bars for the ceiling and floor, with a length of each of them corresponding to the width of the partition, are fixed to the corresponding structures with dowels. The same should be done with the bars for the walls. They are cut along the height of the room and fixed between the floor and ceiling bars in increments of 600-120 mm. With the help of transverse bars, a doorway is made. For rigidity, it is additionally supplied on both sides with intermediate racks.
- Partition wall insulation. Insulation is placed between the racks of the frame. The material for it can be basalt wool with a thickness of its plates of 50 mm and a width of 600 mm.
- From the side of the steam room along the insulation, the frame is sheathed with foil, the heat-reflecting side of which should be turned inside the room. The material is fastened with a stapler to the racks of the frame. The seams between the panels are glued with metal tape.
- From the side of the washing compartment of the bath, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing membrane of the Izospan type. Its fastening and sealing of the seams is carried out similarly to the previous version.
- Partition cladding. For getting ventilation gap between the back side of the future skin and the waterproofing layer across the racks, thin slats 15 mm wide are stuffed. A lining is attached to them. The same operation is performed from the side of the steam room on the foil material. All wooden frame elements must be treated with an antiseptic.
Features of the glass partition in the bath
Unlike Soviet times, today's glass partitions are a fashionable design element that has a variety of decorative solutions.
Advantages and disadvantages of glass partitions
Modern glass partitions in the bath can be made of glass blocks - a kind of transparent "bricks" made of glass 6-10 mm thick. Their surface can be corrugated, smooth, matte, transparent and colored.
The manufacture of glass partitions has certain advantages:
- Partitions effectively look, are durable, rather strong, fire-resistant.
- They have good heat and sound insulation characteristics.
- They transmit light, for transparent blocks this value is up to 80%, for matte and colored products - up to 50%. Patterns of corrugated blocks give a bizarre play of chiaroscuro.
- The material of glass partitions can withstand temperature fluctuations from -40 to +50 degrees. In the event of a fire, the structure of transparent blocks is able to contain the spread of smoke and flame for two hours.
- Glass partitions are easy to clean and do not absorb odors, they are not afraid of rodents and insects.
- The inner surface of the partitions excludes the laying of any communications - electrical wiring, plumbing, etc.
- On the glass wall you can not hang shelves or paintings.
- A separate block is not cut when mounting the partition.
The cost of glass blocks depends on their type. Industrial products- the cheapest, their price is 40-60 rubles / piece. Color blocks are more expensive - 160 rubles / piece. The most expensive are blocks with a pattern obtained by sintering glass. different colors. Their price is more than 1500 rubles / piece. The cost of work on the installation of a partition is more than $ 20 per 1 m 2.
The device of a glass partition in the bath
Installing a glass partition for a beginner is not an easy task. For laying glass blocks are used cement-sand mortars With fine fraction filler or "liquid" nails. There are two ways of installation: on adhesive cement mortar and in modular cells.
The first method is similar to maintaining brickwork, it is quite laborious and time consuming:
- The base is cleaned of dust, debris and dirt, and then leveled.
- The first row of blocks is set by level. Between them there are plastic crosses for making seams of the same thickness.
- The masonry is reinforced horizontally and vertically with iron bars 6 mm in diameter through two blocks. It is recommended to lay no more than 3 rows per day due to the weight of the products - the damp lower seams of the masonry can shift from gravity.
How to make a partition in the bath - look at the video:
The issue of bath partitions is quite extensive. We hope that the information provided in the article will help you choose the material and even make a partition in the bath with your own hands.
The bath includes several separate rooms, which are separated by partitions. So, the partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink can be made of different materials. The method of installation directly depends on the chosen building material. This article will consider some options for arranging partitions, as well as the technology for their installation.
There are several types of baths that are considered wooden:
- From round logs.
A partition in a log cabin bath can be made using the five-wall log cabin technology. However, this will require a large amount of money and the help of qualified specialists. If this is not possible, you can make a partition of bricks, gas blocks, etc.
Although we will consider different technologies making a partition between the steam room and the washing room, a priority option in wooden bath is a partition made of wood, and on the other hand, made of brick, it will be more durable and less susceptible to the negative effects of moisture.
Under the frame partition is meant the construction of wooden frame, which is insulated with mineral wool and lined with clapboard. The partition is mounted on a concrete curb. The process of installing a frame partition consists of several stages. Further, each stage will be considered in detail.
The first step is to make a border. Its height should be 100 mm and width 125 mm. This border is needed to strengthen the structure, as well as to lay out along it ceramic tiles. It will completely isolate the tree from water. The threshold is made when pouring the screed (if the floor is concrete). You can also do this work during the installation of the partition. To do this, install the formwork from the boards. It is important not to forget about the presence of a doorway, according to the standard 940 mm. The base is treated with a deep penetration primer for better adhesion. So that the filled curb is probably not broken, before pouring, drill holes inside the formwork and hammer in small pieces of wire or screw in the dowels 1/2. When the poured concrete is dry, two layers of roofing material must be laid on top.
At the very beginning of the preparatory work, take a chainsaw and cut a 4 × 21.5 cm groove in the walls. The height will depend on the room, but usually it is 250 cm.
At this stage, blanks for the base of the frame are first made. Dimensions should be as follows:
- 6×10×210 cm;
- 6×10×176 cm.
In the blanks, drill holes for the anchors and lay the bars on the curb. So, the base of the partition is fixed to the floor with anchors. On average, 3 anchors are required for each blank. Side racks mounted in longitudinal grooves made in the walls, and screwed with screws. After that, you need to make the supporting frame of the structure. The end posts, the size of which is 6 × 10 × 235 cm, are placed on the base and secured with screws. Be sure to put a washer under each screw!
It is better to make the grooves in the racks longitudinal and oval. Due to this, the frame will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house. The screws will slide along with the walls. As a result, there will be no interference during the shrinkage of the log house. And the frame will also not be under load.
It's time to decorate the doorway. For the frame, put two vertical racks measuring 6 × 10 × 206 cm. Fix the frame frame with jumpers using self-tapping screws. As for the upper beam of the frame, at the top it is necessary to leave a gap of 30 mm between the ceiling. Due to this, the expansion or settlement of the log house will be compensated. For this reason, the side grooves in the walls are made to the full height.
Frame dimensions must be accurate. After all, the quality of the entire partition will depend on this. Therefore, before fixing this or that element, check the horizontal, vertical and dimensional conformity.
As for thermal insulation, for this you can use mineral wool 10 cm thick. Cells 120 × 60 cm should be made in the frame. This size corresponds to the standard size of mineral wool slabs. On both sides, the cotton wool is closed with polyethylene. It is attached with a stapler. These actions achieve several goals at once:
- Protection against moisture penetration.
- Thermal insulation.
- Noise isolation.
At the final stage of manufacturing the frame partition, the lining is fastened to the crate (the crate is made of bars 2.5 × 5 cm). The crate can be fixed on top of the film and fixed with self-tapping screws on the frame.
If the resulting opening has a size of 82 × 206 cm, then the frame should be 80 × 205 cm. So, there will be a gap of 1 cm on each side. When the frame is installed, fill all the cracks with mounting foam. Cut off excess hardened foam with a construction knife.
Given the fact that the standard frame has a width of 11.5 cm, the open part of the opening should be closed planed board, size 60×30 mm. It is very important that the plane of the outer edge of the lining as a result corresponds to the outer edges of the boards.
When the partition frame is ready, the washing room should be tiled. Although this process can be performed after laying the lining. Installation of lining is carried out very simply using the "thorn-groove" technology. bottom bar the crates from the side of the sink are attached to the curb, and from the steam room to the floor. It must be fixed only to vertical racks. The lining is attached to the crate with the help of climbers.
The gap between the ceiling and the frame partition is sealed with any thermal insulation material. It is also recommended to close each screwed self-tapping screw at the end of work with wooden pins of a suitable size.
Skirting boards, architraves and finishing
Here, according to this technology, the installation of a frame partition between the steam room and the washing room is carried out. Step by step, you will succeed.
Another method of separating the steam room from the washroom is to build a brick wall. There are two ways to lay bricks:
- Spoon laying in 1/2 brick.
- In a whole brick.
Given the weight of the brick, the partition will be very massive. Therefore, to reduce the weight of the structure, use a hollow brick.
Below will be detailed instructions how to make a brick partition.
Training
The first step is to make all the preparatory work. Start with a work surface. It is necessary to remove all plank elements from the floor, up to the foundation. Sweep the base with a broom and wet it. It is also necessary to equip the work area with good lighting. Extra items should be removed. At the end of the preparatory work, outline the contours of the future structure.
To work with cement mortar, you will need:
- Sander;
- sieve;
- shovel;
- mixing container.
So, first sift the sand from third-party objects. The grid should have small cells. Next, install the container for mixing the solution so that it has a stable base. Mixing ratio 3:1. To prevent the mortar from drying out, make a small batch, for example, two buckets of cement and six buckets of sand. Must be mixed with water. This amount of solution is enough for you for an hour of work. The consistency of the mixture should resemble thick sour cream.
In the course of work, the solution tends to shrink and harden. Do not rush to add water. It is enough to stir every 10-15 minutes.
For construction, you will need the following set of tools:
- level;
- plumb;
- rule;
- trowel;
- pick.
The whole process of work goes according to the following scenario:
- For guidance, pull the rope. Lay out the solution and level it with a trowel. It takes some time for him to catch on.
- On top of it, apply a second layer and start laying the first row of bricks.
- Lay the first brick against the wall. Apply a solution to its end part and press it against the wall. Align the brick along the stretched rope, lightly tapping on it. Remove excess solution immediately.
- When laying bricks, it is immediately necessary to decide where the doorway will be. It must be installed immediately. It should be set according to the level and only then overlaid with a brick.
- The brick should be laid close to the box. For dressing with a frame, you can use metal plates or fittings. One end is screwed to the frame, and the other between the brick row.
When the first row is ready, the next ones are laid according to this principle. Be sure to check each row for a level.
The use of dressing is important condition. In this case, the existing load will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be strong enough. For additional reinforcement of the masonry, every five rows, place reinforcement or metal strips in the seam.
A similar binding must be done to the wall. A channel for reinforcement is installed on top of the door frame. The gap between the ceiling and the last row of masonry is filled with scrap bricks and mortar. As you can see, there are no special secrets in the construction of a brick partition. All work can be done by hand. The only thing you need to take into account a few important nuances:
- If you do not plan to plaster the wall, then the quality of the masonry must be appropriate. If plaster is applied, it is important to monitor only the vertical level of the wall.
- If the wall is to be plastered, then often craftsmen use used bricks. This reduces the financial costs for the purchase of material several times.
- If you plan to carry out certain communications through the partition, then a small segment can be installed in the wall plastic pipe. Its diameter must correspond to the actual need. In this case, it is not necessary to cover the pipe with a solution, it must simply be blown out with mounting foam. This is important, because after a while something can change and thanks to this, the wall structure will not be disturbed.
Such building material as foam block or aerated concrete is very popular. A foam block partition is made much faster, unlike a brick. Standard size one block is 300×600mm. As for the thickness, there is a large selection. As a rule, blocks with a thickness of 75, 100 and 150 mm are chosen for the construction of partitions.
Depending on the thickness of the foam block, the price for it will differ. Therefore, to calculate the budget, consider this nuance in advance.
The process of manufacturing aerated concrete partitions has several successive stages, the observance of which will help you do all the work yourself.
markup
Also, as in the case of brickwork, the floor and walls should be prepared. Next, mark the doorway and pull the cord. In accordance with the markup without mortar, lay out the first row and, if necessary, cut the block to size. After, you remove the blocks and perform waterproofing at the masonry site.
You can cut foam blocks with a grinder or a hacksaw for stone. If these tools are not available, a regular hacksaw will do.
For laying gas blocks, special glue is used. The glue is kneaded with an electric drill with a mixer attachment. Apply the adhesive mixture to the blocks with a layer of 3 mm. Next, install the block and lightly tap. Be sure to check the vertical/horizontal level. For better strength, shift the block 1/2 and start the second row of masonry. When joining a partition to a wall, perform dressing, as well as in the case of brickwork. To do this, make holes up to 5 cm in the wall, and place the blocks directly on them. You can do this dressing every 4-5 rows.
Before laying the last row, lay out reinforcement Ø1.6 cm along the entire length of the partition. On top of it is a layer of glue and the last row of blocks to the ceiling. This will serve as a kind of armor belt.
Before plastering, do everything necessary communications. Next, install beacons and make plaster. As a solution, you can use the same mixture as for masonry. When the plaster has dried, the surface is puttied and painted or tiled with decorative tiles.
Keeping this a simple circuit, you will not have any problems. Please note the following helpful tips:
- When buying blocks, pay attention to the quality of the product. The smoother they are, the easier it will be to process them.
- Block density doesn't matter. The size of the blocks depends on the specific room.
- It is better to buy those blocks, the production of which is based on cutting.
- To increase the density of the masonry, wet the blocks before laying.
- To avoid a vertical seam, shift each row by 1/2 block.
- Leave a small gap between the partition and the wall and fill it with mounting foam.
glass partition
For beginners, installing a glass partition is no easy task. If you decide to use glass blocks, then their installation is carried out on mortar or liquid nails. Also, the installation of a glass partition is carried out in modular cells.
If you decide to lay a glass partition according to the brick laying principle, then the work is as follows:
- Clean the base of the floor from dirt, dust and debris. Level the floor, if necessary, perform a small screed.
- Lay out the first row of glass blocks strictly according to the level. To ensure that the seams are the same, put a plastic cross in each seam.
- Reinforce the masonry vertically and horizontally, every 2 rows, with iron bars Ø6 mm.
As for the method of mounting a glass partition into cellular grids, everything is much simpler here. Cells can be made of wood, MDF and plastic. They are attached to the ceiling, wall and floor. The blocks themselves are installed on a sealant, the basis of which should be rubber.
So we have considered possible options making a partition between the steam room and the washing room. If you have done such work, then share your experience with our readers by leaving comments at the end of this article.
Video
From the provided video, you can learn about some of the details of finishing the steam room:
Wood is considered a recognized classic for interior decoration in a bath and sauna. However glass doors for sauna and bath- modern and stylish element- allows you to create an exclusive steam room, original interior for healthy rest.
Pros and cons of glass partitions and doors
1. Aesthetically pleasing appearance. Glass door for a bath- a universal detail that will harmoniously fit into the interior of any style. In specialized stores, there is an unlimited range of models of partitions and doors that use tinted, frosted glass, decorated with a pattern, stained-glass windows.
2. Doors to the bath from glass provided they will last an unlimited time. Only the gasket will need to be replaced.
3. Glass of a certain thickness and processing is resistant to extreme high temperatures, high humidity and shock. At the same time, a bath or sauna does not emit harmful substances when heated, mold will never appear on their surface.
4. Glass is able to retain heat inside the steam room, of course, subject to all installation requirements. Under the influence of heat and steam doors to the bath made of glass retain their shape and do not deform.
5. The transparent structure of the material allows you to control the situation inside the steam room and, if necessary, help a person.
6. Glass partitions for saunas and baths easy to care for, however, they will have to be washed regularly.
7. Glass does not prevent the penetration of natural light into the steam room, while maintaining pleasant lighting in the room.
To disadvantages of glass construction specialists include the following characteristics:
- the cost of glass products is quite high;
- glass has a high thermal conductivity, from the side of the steam room the surface of the door or partition can be very hot to avoid burns, manufacturers use a special, hardened material;
- choosing glass of insufficient thickness can lead to cracks, as a result, the product breaks and the risk of injury increases.
Types of glass partitions and doors
Do right choice from point of view operating parameters and design is possible by studying in detail all the features of glass models.
Construction types
Doors of this design open in two directions, and if there are closers, they return to starting position on one's own. The design of the doors can be single-leaf or double-leaf.
Note: it is advisable to install such doors in the steam room, where people often gather.
Provide good sound and heat insulation. Great choice indoor not large area where it is important to save as much free space as possible. Installation of the structure is carried out to two guides located at the top and bottom of the product.
This is the most popular type of construction for baths and saunas. The product is complemented by a box made of wood, aluminum or steel. The construction is strong and durable.
Depending on the material of manufacture, two types of structures are distinguished.
- Full glass construction - a spectacular door, it is decorative, especially in combination with decorative elements(photoprint, color film, application of different images).
— Combined design- Combines glass and wood. Such designs combine the properties of two materials and are installed in discreet, classic rooms. Products of this design can be made to order, in this case bath dimensions doors and partitions are selected individually in accordance with the architectural features of the room.
What are profile systems
Considering that the temperature and humidity in the steam room are high, as a rule, the glass sheet is inserted into a wooden box, it is also made of wood. doorhandle. For the manufacture of the profile system, deciduous types of wood (alder, linden, aspen) are used, since conifers can release resin when heated. protective layer varnish gives the finished product additional moisture-resistant qualities.
Note: the quality mark of wood is the absence of knots, cracks and other defects.
In baths where the air warms up no higher than +60 degrees, for example, in Finnish bath, it is permissible to use aluminum profile systems. This design is durable, highly hygienic and resistant to moisture. The only drawback is that the cost of the product is higher by an average of 30%.
Note: the light weight of the aluminum box exerts an insignificant load on the partitions and walls in the room.
Mounting features
Despite excellent performance characteristics, glass still remains a rather difficult material to work with - fragile and heavy. That is why the process of fixing the structure requires care.
Depending on the operational features, size and weight of the structure, the material from which the hinges are made is chosen:
- alloys based on brass;
- bronze;
- aluminum.
The selected loops must meet a number of criteria:
- room design;
- resistance to frequent and extreme temperature changes;
- resistance to corrosion.
2. Method of fastening.
To install doors and partitions of any design and size, special rubber gaskets are used. For mounting the structure, four methods of fastening the loop to the product are used.
— Loop with drilling. A rather time-consuming and complex process that requires the use of a special tool. This technique is gradually becoming obsolete and is being replaced by simpler ones.
- Hinge without drilling. Installation is quick and easy - just put on the loop, adjust its position and tighten.
— Loops with partial drilling. This mechanism is the most popular, as it combines the advantages of fastening with and without drilling, while the disadvantages are minimized.
- Gluing. The connection mechanism is common, but with its accuracy and aesthetic appeal, it has one significant disadvantage- the structure is unsuitable for further repair.
Note: each type of hinge can only be used with a certain mass of the structure and the thickness of the partition or door leaf.
Glass types
quality the glass partition in the bath should be made of special tempered glass. The material is first heated, and then cooled evenly and quickly. The result is glass that is resistant to mechanical damage and extreme temperatures. Such a canvas is broken into fragments with blunt edges that will not cut a person. Glass can be dark, light, matte or glossy.
For natural air circulation at the bottom between the web and flooring a gap must be left, and a sealant resistant to high temperatures is laid around the entire perimeter of the structure.
Note: optimum thickness glass - 12 mm.
Prices and manufacturers
1. "Harvia" - Finnish quality.
The company, founded in 1950 by a Finnish family, specializes in products for Finnish saunas. Under this brand, high-quality, original products are produced that will transform the room and make your vacation unforgettable.
The price range is from 2000 to 4500 rubles.
2. "Saunax" - Baltic elegance.
The company was founded in 1996 in Estonia and initially specialized in the processing and manufacture of wood sauna products. Today, under the brand, products are produced not only from wood, but also from high-quality, reliable materials, including glass partitions and doors.
The price range is from 1000 to 3500 rubles.
3. "Sawo" - Finnish reliability.
Another Finnish company, organized in 1994. Today, all products manufactured under the brand are confirmed by quality certificates. That is why Sawo glass doors are popular all over the world.
The price range is from 2500 to 4500 rubles.
4. "Sauna Market" - affordable quality.
The Russian company specializes in the production of glass doors and partitions for saunas and baths. Big choice models, quality assurance distinctive features brand.
The price range is from 2000 to 3000 rubles.
How to install
There is one fundamental difference in the installation of doors in a sauna and a bath.
There is no threshold in the sauna, and the gap between door leaf and flooring is not covered. In a bath where you need to maintain high humidity, it is advisable to organize a threshold with a height of 10 cm.
Models with an aluminum box mount up to finishing premises, and with wood - after the completion of all finishing work.
Given the considerable weight of the glass sheet, it is advisable to use the help, since it is not possible for one person to hold the structure.
1. Preparatory stage.
First you need to carefully remove the glass sheet from the package and place it on pre-prepared wooden slats.
2. Installation.
It is necessary to determine the direction of door opening and choose the location of the door jamb. Then a box is installed in the opening, wedges are used for fixing.
During the installation process, it is important to check the verticality of the structure, the operational characteristics of the doors and their durability depend on this. When the box is exposed, you need to slightly tighten the screws on the side of the hinges and re-check the verticality. Then repeat fastening with opposite side and, making sure that the structure is installed correctly, tighten the screws tightly.
Then the glass is mounted - it is inserted into the loops and tightened. At this stage, an assistant is needed to hold the glass while a second person tightens the mount.
Note: to check if the installation is correct door structure, it must be closed and gaps measured. They must be the same and the glass sheet should fit snugly against the seal. The final stage is the installation of the handle and latch.
Glass blocks today are a high-tech material that provides many options for interesting interior solutions for all areas of the house. Glass block is in harmony with almost all finishing materials and fits any room configuration.
For interior design, glass blocks provide a lot of opportunities. For swimming pools, baths and showers, baths and saunas glass blocks great material, since they only benefit from water and steam. Translucent blocks let in light, but limit visibility, and are suitable both for dividing space and for arranging windows and partitions of various shapes.
In hallways and corridors, glass blocks add light through refraction and reflection. A glass block partition for the hallway will allow natural light to remain in this usually darkest room of the house.
Glass block partitions
Using glass blocks as fences, you can simultaneously create a stained-glass work of art in the form of a glass picture or panel and hide pipe passages, ventilation details or other engineering communications.
Walls and partitions made of glass blocks are not always worth making a large area; this is practical if you need to divide the room. A few glass blocks built into existing partitions will enliven the interior and make you take a fresh look at the familiar decor.
Glass block kitchens often feature panels above the cutting table and sink, providing plenty of light, a clean feel, and practical for cleaning and maintenance. You can wash glass blocks with any detergent. The bar counter made of glass blocks looks original, especially with LED lighting.
Very popular glass blocks for decoration of loggias, balconies, in the country - for a veranda or terrace. Sunlight and glass are always a win-win, light and shine are provided in any design. In addition, glass blocks for outdoor decoration are ideal, because they are not afraid of cold or heat and UV rays are not afraid of them.
A huge range of glass blocks, both imported and domestic production, an abundance of colors, textures and surfaces - from mirror to matte and patterned, allow you to realize any fantasy, and they themselves give scope to the imagination.
Installation and installation of glass blocks
Glass blocks are heavy material and require support. The base for a partition, wall or glass block wall must have a margin bearing capacity. The weight of one block can be from 1.5 to 3 kg or more, and the dimensions also vary greatly. There are two ways to install glass blocks.
Laying glass blocks in the frame
The first method - laying in special frames or cassettes - gives a stable structure, with an almost perfectly flat surface. Frame material wood, aluminium, plastic, polyurethanes, various colors and invoices. The frame not only does not spoil the aesthetics of the wall, on the contrary, it can bring an additional artistic effect. The cells of the frames are made according to the size of the blocks. When laying, it is not necessary to check the horizontal and vertical, and work in progress much faster.
Before proceeding with the laying of glass blocks in the frame cells, it is necessary to firmly fix the frame to the supporting surface of the floor and the adjoining wall. If the partition is up to the ceiling, they are also attached to the ceiling, before the blocks are laid. The fastening must be reliable, and the frame must be strictly vertical, checked by a plumb line or using a laser level. It must be remembered that the weight of the structure will be considerable, and stability is a guarantee of safe operation.
Fastening of glass blocks in the cells is carried out by means of special rubber gaskets. The advantage of this method is the simple replacement of one or more blocks, in case of damage. You just need to have a small supply of blocks. Another plus is that such a partition can be disassembled and mounted elsewhere. mounted in this way decorative partitions or piers.
In order to lay out a decorative column, arch, arch or canopy, it is necessary to carry out laying on adhesive compositions, with special fasteners and reinforcement. This work should be entrusted only to professionals. It is possible to create glass greenhouses and winter gardens from glass blocks, they are successfully used for finishing the ceiling, floor and stairs. But such complex installation requires skill and knowledge.
Laying glass blocks for mortar
The second way of laying is without a frame, using special solutions or adhesives. Many craftsmen lay glass blocks on cement mortar, but experts recommend using tile adhesive, most often called the Knauf brand. Glue for laying glass blocks is preferable to cement, because it is elastic, viscous, “stretches” when laying, has better adhesion to glass than cement, and dries much faster.
The blocks are stacked end to end. The first row of blocks is laid on a profile fixed to the floor. The floor surface must be clean and perfectly level. They begin laying the partition from the wall, and lay out no more than three to five rows in one “shift”, due to heavy weight glass blocks. The masonry should be maintained so that the solution is firmly bound to the surface of the blocks, you can not rush.
Deformation adhesive composition in the seams can ruin the whole thing. The joint lines will turn out to be curved, and this is unacceptable both for the stability of the structure and for aesthetic reasons, since the shining geometry of the glass blocks next to the curvature loses a lot.
Reinforcement of glass block partitions
Partitions made of glass blocks require reinforcement, this is a prerequisite. Galvanized wire with diameters from 4 to 6 mm will serve as reinforcement; for high partitions, a wire with a diameter of 6 mm should be taken. The wire is laid both horizontally and vertically, forming a frame.
Two rods are installed vertically, one is closer to the outer sides of the glass blocks, the second is closer to the inner ones. Horizontal rods, there are also two of them, are placed inside the "frame", next to the vertical ones. Vertical rods will not be visible, since mounting crosses are used during masonry. It is much easier to accurately line up all horizontal and vertical seams and maintain their thickness using crosses.
The choice of crosses for glass blocks is extremely important, since these crosses set the width of the seam. Ideally, the seams should not be noticeable, the thinner they are, the cleaner and brighter the glass block wall will shine. The sizes of the mounting crosses are different - from the minimum 2 mm, which is not suitable for all glass blocks, but mainly imported ones (Italian and Czech Vetroaerredo, and German firms), up to 5 mm and 10 mm.
Glass blocks should be protected during the installation period both from splashes of glue, which will be difficult to remove, and from all accidents during work. Blocks of some manufacturers have a protective film, if it is not, then it should be glued. Any polyethylene film will do; it is convenient to mount it on the front surfaces of the blocks using paper tape. It is not worth removing the protective films before the installation is completely completed.
The dry mixture is poured into a container, mixed until completely homogeneous, preferably with a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle. The mixture manufacturer's recommendations should be followed. The masonry is carried out in rows, substituting crosses, and not forgetting the reinforcing rods. Correct the position of the blocks with a rubber mallet. The horizontality and verticality of the masonry should be verified in each row, using a plumb line and building level, but better - with a laser level, and, as already mentioned, lay no more than five rows a day.
One small nuance can both enhance the positive effect of the work, and spoil it - these are colors and quality tiled grouts for seams. You need to choose carefully, and remember that the colors of some grouts in the seams look darker.
Basic rules for the installation of glass block partitions
Basic rules for all glass block structures:
- The surface under the lower tier should be perfectly flat.
- The use of glass block structures as load-bearing structures is excluded. Only enclosing function, zoning and design. The point here is not the strength of the blocks themselves, it is enough with a margin, because the thickness of the glass walls is about a centimeter (7-9mm). Significant weight, small thickness of the blocks require perfectly even and stable support, strong fastening, strict verticality. From glass blocks perform and complex curvilinear structures, including arched, but in these cases there is a supporting frame.
- The largest partition area possible is 15 m2. More is not possible for reasons of stability, since the glass blocks are very heavy and collapse can occur.
- It is best to remove protective films from blocks as a last resort, after all finishing is completed.
Installation of glass blocks in the frame is simple and can be performed even without experience. Mortar mounting or adhesive mixture time-consuming, requires skills and constant alignment of the vertical and horizon. Stability is the main condition for the safe operation of a glass block structure. Installation according to the second method, as a rule, is trusted by specialists.
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