Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall. All existing ways to install a drywall wall in your home: perfect examples for perfect interiors. Types of profiles for plasterboard partitions

The layout of any living space is a purely personal matter, and what one likes may not suit others radically. In order to be able to make your own adjustments, reshape the space for yourself, there is a simple, but reliable way, which involves the use of drywall sheets, which even a beginner can work with. The main thing is to know exactly how to make a wall from this material.

Peculiarities

The house is a real fortress for everyone, therefore it is so important to equip it in such a way as to feel confident, comfortable and good in it. Buying a new home or changing the number of occupants of an old one may require redevelopment of the space so that everyone is comfortable in it. In an old house, additional space may be needed if there is a replenishment in the family or one of the relatives needs a personal closed space in which to be alone.

The issue of planning in free-type new buildings becomes especially acute., where there are no clear boundaries of the room, and each tenant can make the design that he likes. erect brick walls it is possible, this has its advantages, because such a design will last a long time and nothing will happen to it. But it is not easy to build such piers, and most importantly, it requires a large amount of materials. For those who have never laid a brick, it will not be easy to cope with this task and make a high-quality and durable partition.

In view of all these circumstances, one of the most simple and convenient options is the construction of plasterboard walls. Such designs are easy to make on your own and even non-professionals can do this process. In this matter, it is important to know what is needed to build a wall and what difficulties you will face.

Plasterboard wall has a number of important advantages compared to brick - it is easy to install, does not create big weight on the floor due to the frame of thin profiles and simple sheets, the thickness of which does not exceed a centimeter.

Another factor that can be considered an advantage of such structures is the possibility of erecting partitions, walls and partitions without obtaining the appropriate permission for redevelopment, which will speed up the process and eliminate unnecessary procedures. For work on creating new boundaries of the premises, it is necessary to determine what and where will change, mark the territory and calculate how much materials will be needed.

Drywall sheets are quite compact in thickness and when stacked one on top of the other, a lot of material can be brought at once. Its weight is also small.

In order for the new walls to be warm and not let in sound, insulation and sound insulation are placed inside the structure. It is possible to conduct wiring in it, install a switch and a socket so that the functionality of the room does not suffer from its redevelopment.

When planning the alteration of large-scale objects, it is important to understand how justified the use of this or that material will be, therefore it is simply necessary to clearly understand what the pros and cons of drywall are and what exactly it will allow you to create in a residential area.

Advantages and disadvantages

The use of drywall made it possible to obtain fantastic opportunities that were previously extremely difficult, if not impossible, to implement using brick as the main material and building walls, partitions and partitions from it.

From this material indoors you can make:

• a wall that will divide the room;
• a partition that will allow you to zone the space or give decorative effect due to the intricate design;
• complex decorative design and achieve original shapes and textures in the room.

A feature of drywall is the ease of working with it. In order to build a wall, you need to form a frame and sheathe it with sheets. The frame structure can be either from metal profiles or from wood. The resulting structure is sheathed with drywall on both sides.

Sheets can be ordinary, waterproof and flame retardant, their choice will be dictated by the place where the new wall or partition is being created. When one wall is sheathed, glass or mineral wool must be placed inside the structure so that the piers not only help to divide the room into two parts, but also perform the function of heating and sound protection.

Among the advantages of this material are:

• ease of installation of structures of any type and complexity;
• the ability to erect structures of any shape and type;
• when carrying out work on the construction of walls or partitions, you do not need to have any special or expensive tools;
• inside the wall, you can put wiring, a telephone cable, an air duct, which makes it also functional;

• the resulting wall will be absolutely even and smooth, therefore, the work on its alignment will be reduced to grouting the joints between the plates and puttying the entire surface for further decorative work;
• after all the preparatory work, the finished wall can be painted in any color, wallpapered or even tiled.

This material also has its drawbacks, which include:

• change in the properties of the material upon contact with water, drywall can swell from this;
• any load must be thought out in advance and the place of attachment of the picture, sconce, lamp or lamp must be initially strengthened;
• too heavy objects should not be installed on this surface, which should be initially taken into account when planning and determining the places of each decor element.

So, with the help of drywall, you can make a wall of any shape and appearance, which can only be imagined, while the sound insulation and heat in the room will be at a high level, because for this, the corresponding filling is placed inside the structure. Sockets with switches will allow you not to limit the possibilities of a new space.

Materials and tools

When planning the construction of a drywall wall, you need to choose the right materials and have all the necessary tools with you so that the work process takes as little time as possible and does not take a lot of effort and energy. In order for the wall to be strong enough, a frame is erected for it from a metal profile. For for various purposes There are also different profiles.

Most often for similar structures two options are used:

• Profile, but which will be attached directly to the drywall itself. It is smaller and conventionally designated as "D".
• A profile with which the main frame of the wall will be erected. It should be more powerful and larger, conventionally designated as "W".

For each of the above profiles, there are two more options, one of which is a support and is designated as "C", and the second is a guide and has the designation "U". The guide profile is simpler, it looks like U-shaped design and smooth walls. The support profile is inserted end-to-end into it. It also has an additional difference from the guide in the form of ribbing, which gives greater strength to the material and does not allow spontaneous bending.

As the main load-bearing element of the frame, you need to use a supporting and smaller profile, to which the drywall sheet will be attached. Its size is 60 by 27 millimeters. As guides for fixing this design, you need to use a narrow guide profile with dimensions of 28 by 27 millimeters. In order to form a wall frame, you need to take a supporting and large profile with dimensions of 50 by 50, 50 by 75 or 50 by 100 millimeters. As a guide for this design, a large guide profile with dimensions of 50 by 40, 75 by 40, 100 by 40 is used.

There is another version of the profile, which is a thicker and reinforced version of the large supporting profile. For the construction of simple walls, only wide profiles, but for more complex structures, in which it is planned to lay any communications, it is already necessary to use thin profile options.

In order for the profile to be connected into a frame, you need to have a direct suspension or use a universal connector. The twisting process is carried out using small flea screws, which have a drill at the end. In addition, special self-tapping screws for metal are used, which have a countersunk head. To fix the frame to the wall, you can not do without plastic dowels and impact screws.

The optimal thickness of drywall sheets for the wall is 12.5 millimeters. A mandatory element should be a wide chamfer on the side of the sheet. Depending on the room, you need to choose the appropriate material - a moisture-resistant sheet is needed for the kitchen and bathroom, and for ordinary room Normal will do too. A distinctive feature will be the color - for moisture-resistant sheets it is green, for ordinary sheets it is gray.

Thus, the crate of a drywall structure is most often made of a metal profile, but in some cases wood can also be used. Depending on the type of construction, it will be possible to choose one or another material and choose its thickness.

Tools that will be needed during the construction of walls from plasterboard sheets:

• tape measure not less than 3 meters long;
• level by 80 or 120 centimeters;
• plumb lines;
• fishing line with a rope;

• mains or cordless screwdriver, hammer drill with nozzles for self-tapping screws;
• perforator;
• scissors that can cut metal;
• construction knife for cutting drywall sheets;
• plasterboard grater.

frame

In order to make a high-quality and even plasterboard wall, first of all, it will be necessary to erect a metal frame, on which the sheets will already be attached. In order for the installation to be carried out correctly, certain patterns must be taken into account. The first step will be marking the territory where the construction of the structure is planned. The next step is to check the evenness of the corners.

Due to the fact that the walls in the room are often not very even, when building a new wall, you need to focus not only on one wall, but also take into account two opposite sides. If the walls have too uneven corners, the easiest way is to cover each of them with drywall, which will align them. Only after that, approach the installation of a new profile.

To level the racks, a laser level is best., but if it is not there, you can apply a simple plumb line. Before mounting the profile for walls, ceiling and floor, you need to paste it over with a special sealing tape. It will help in cushioning and soundproofing. Before you start fastening the profiles, you need to make a clear marking of the places on the floor, wall and shelf, where the base for the frame will be attached.

When everything is ready, you can begin to fix the guide profile, taking a step up to one meter. If the mount goes to wooden surface, then the distance is 50 centimeters and the clutch goes with the help of self-tapping screws. If work is done with concrete surface, then the frame is screwed with dowels in increments of 75 centimeters. In this case, it is important to make holes in advance.

Both the carrier and the rack profile can be attached to the wall, but it is important that it be solid. If the height of the ceilings is more than three meters, then longer materials will have to be used for the construction. In the event that a door to new wall, for her on the floor it is important to leave an opening of the desired width. In the case of standard door dimensions of 80 centimeters, it is important to make the opening 8 centimeters wider in order to be able to install the door frame.

The rack profile is installed from the doorway and determines its width. The first place for fixing the profile is the floor, then the level of the entire structure is checked and it is attached to the ceiling. Racks can be installed with any step, it depends on the drywall sheets. Most often they are installed as a fastening tool for sheets at the edge and in the middle of the entire structure. The joint of two sheets should lie clearly in the middle of the profile.

If racks are installed frequently, then the strength of the wall increases, it will withstand a lot, but the cost of work also increases. As for the profile framing the doorway, for greater rigidity, a wooden block or a supporting profile can be placed in it. You can also use cross braces, which are also reinforced with a bar and installed where there is a horizontal drywall joint.

The doorway on top is additionally equipped with a jumper. The installation height depends on the dimensions of the door. If it is two meters, then you need to install the jumper at a height of two meters and five centimeters. They make it from a rack profile, which needs to be cut off longer - not 20, but even 30 centimeters. Stepping back 10 or 15 centimeters from each side of the profile, you need to make an incision at 45 degrees. The bevel should look outward.

The sides that were cut should be bent down and given the structure a U-shape. The vertical parts must be put on racks and secured with metal screws. When working with drywall sheets, it is important to use only special self-tapping screws that have a press washer. It is she who helps to easily pass through the canvas, while not damaging the cardboard and allowing the hat to deepen to the required distance.

Step by step installation instructions

If you need to create a drywall construction with your own hands, you need to properly organize the progress of work. The first thing that is needed is to level the floor and walls to which the structure will be attached. future wall. Only after that, you can make markings on the floor, taking into account both parallel walls to derive the correct angle for the structure. If the adjacent walls are also covered with drywall, then initially a crate is erected for them, and after that the installation of the frame for the new wall begins.

According to the markings that are applied to the floor and walls, only the profile needs to be leveled., and the width of the entire wall will increase after the installation of drywall and putty. Be sure to note the location of the doorway, if any. After marking is completed on the floor, the next step is to mark the wall and ceiling. To do everything perfectly accurately, it is better to use a laser level. If this is not available, a simple plumb line will do.

When everything is ready, it is erected metal carcass. The first profile is fixed to the floor with dowels. The second stage is the construction of part of the structure on the ceiling. When both parts are ready, they are connected into a common structure using CW support posts. If there is a door or a window, you need to use the same racks for them. Installation takes place from the bottom up, the front side should be directed inside the window or door openings.

The next step is the installation of vertical supports from the same CW profile with a distance of 55 and 60 centimeters from each other. When everything is ready, all the supports are checked by level. After that work in progress for the installation of horizontal edges with a UW profile. When all these works have been completed, you can begin fastening drywall sheets.

Based on the fact that this material has standard dimensions of 2 by 1.20 m, 2.50 by 1.20 m and 3 by 1.20 m, for different ceilings different sizes will be required. If the room is not high, then the sheet will most likely have to be cut, the same principle is used for ceilings over three meters, when the length has to be increased.

In order to cut the sheet, use a construction knife.

The cutting process consists of the following steps:

• laying the sheet on the surface, which should be as even and firm as possible;
• you need to draw a line along which the incision will go with a pencil;
• you need to cut carefully and only the cardboard itself;

• the sheet is shifted to the edge of a flat support to the drawn line, by pressing it is necessary to make a break along it;
• turn the drywall over and draw the same line on the reverse side, along which to make the same incision;
• move along the notch line, press and completely break the GKL.

The next step is to attach drywall sheets to the finished frame.

For this you need:

• On the first sheet, the side chamfer is removed, for which a strip of 55 millimeters is cut off.
• Sheets are fastened from the bottom corner of the wall. It is important to make a small indent from the floor of 10 or 15 millimeters.
• Fastening the sheet to the crate using self-tapping screws 3.5 by 35 millimeters. The edges are fastened first, and then they move to the middle. The width from the self-tapping screw to the self-tapping screw should not exceed 25 centimeters. Hats need to be slightly deepened into the surface of the sheet.

• After installing the first element of drywall, you need to measure the distance left to the ceiling and cut off the appropriate piece.
• Formation of a chamfer on a sheet.
• Install it on the frame.
• It is important to fasten the following sheets in a checkerboard pattern, but there is no need to cut the chamfer. This is how the whole sheet is fastened, without trimming. Mounting goes from ceiling to floor. Thus, the entire side of the future wall is sheathed.

When work on one side has been completed, it is important to consider whether wiring and telephone cable will be needed in the new room. If yes, then the next step is to install them. For wiring, you need to prepare corrugated pipes and run wires into them. After that, it is necessary to make holes in the profile with a diameter of 3.5 cm and thread pipes with wires into them. It is important to determine the holes for the sockets and the switch and make them in advance.

To build a quality wall, you need to supplement its interior with appropriate materials., which will have sound insulation and will make it possible to feel confident and comfortable, as if behind a stone wall. This must be done correctly by using rolled mineral wool 6 or 12 centimeters thick. Cotton wool fits tightly between the profiles, this will be enough for a good fix. After everything is done, you can put up a second wall.

The technology of its sheathing is the same. Once all installation work is completed, the new stage, where the finished wall is subjected to the processing process:

• joints between drywall sheets are glued with a sickle;
• wall treatment with starting putty;
• wall processing finishing putty, alignment of the places where the screws are located;
• putty grout sandpaper;
• decorative wall decoration.

A false wall can be prepared quickly enough, it all depends on the skill of the master and his experience. A beginner can also assemble such a design, it just requires him more time.

Interior walls will serve for a long time, the main thing is to monitor the conditions of their operation. As a decor for such elements, you can use paint, wallpaper or tiles, it all depends on the room, the interior and the desire of the owners themselves.

Design

Drywall - very comfortable material for work, especially for creating interesting and unusual images in the interior. This becomes possible due to the fact that the sheets can take a wide variety of shapes, they can not only be cut, but also bent, for which it is enough just to wet the sheet and give it the desired shape.

You can use this material anywhere.- both in a private house and in an apartment, and in each of the cases, the design can be completely different. Options for exactly how a particular space may look may differ in style, shape, and texture. It is possible to build structures with plasterboard in the bathroom, bedroom, corridor and any other room, only the finishing material will differ. For rooms with increased level humidity use moisture resistant sheets.

The false wall is completely similar to the usual one, moreover, it can be equipped with a door and fully serve its owners to separate certain areas of the room. To fulfill such an idea, when designing, leave room for an opening and later place doors in it.

For space zoning, it is not necessary to build entire walls, you can limit yourself to a small partition, which will look spectacular with lighting from above and decorative boxes. The implementation of the partition is not a continuous canvas allows you to give the design lightness. Complete with shelves will help add comfort and hide small things in a secluded place. This option is best suited for the living room, but you can use it in the hall.

A distinctive characteristic of drywall is the ability to apply any decoration methods to it. For creating cozy atmosphere V living rooms ah, you can glue the wallpaper on the finished wall or paint it in any color and even overlay it with natural or artificial stone. The latter option is especially well suited for a fireplace, which can also be made from plasterboard. In the kitchen or bathroom, the option of painting is also suitable, but you can also lay tiles to precisely protect the walls from excess moisture and create a full feeling of a real brick wall.

When planning the construction of a plasterboard wall, it is initially necessary to prepare the room. There should not be anything superfluous in it, because it will not be easy to place a sheet 2 or 3 meters long in it. The room should be clean enough so that the drywall sheets do not get dirty, because then you will need to get rid of the stains so that they do not show up on the surface of the wallpaper or paint.

It is important to plan the room correctly, take into account the heating system, and if necessary, bring the batteries into the new living space. It is also necessary to take into account the light that will be blocked by the new design. If the windows are located only on one side, it is important not to completely block access to them.

If it is not a wall that is formed, but a partition, it is better to do it with shelves, and not a solid structure, which will allow you to divide the space, make a storage area, and provide light access to the second part of the room.

Examples in the interior

A plasterboard wall can become a real highlight in the interior, the main thing is to correctly approach the process of its design, choose the right materials, which will help to decorate the room and emphasize its features.

In the bedroom with drywall, you can create an original and unique design. The wall by the bed is made with the help of ornate lines, soft shapes give comfort and contribute to good rest. The presence of shelves allows you to store small things there and use them as a place for lamps.

For the living room, especially when it borders on the kitchen and is not separated by walls, you can use the original semicircular design, which rises from the wall to the ceiling. The space is divided into two zones. In this case, use white color best of all helps to increase the space of both zones.

A plasterboard wall can be designed with a doorway to divide the space between two rooms. Doors can be single or double, with glass or deaf, it depends on the design of the room.

How to make a drywall partition, see the following video.

With the advent of drywall sheets on the construction market, designers got the opportunity to create any complex shapes, including curved walls. However, before making a semicircular plasterboard wall, you need to study in more detail the properties of this material and the sequence of work.

The process of creating a rounded corner using wireframe

Before you mount such an arcuate structure, you need to learn the basic rules for working with drywall:

• Rounded surfaces can only be created with a steel profile framing, wooden blocks in this case it is better not to use
• Gypsum board is not characterized by high strength, so it is better to bend according to a pre-made template
• To create a large bend, the material must be wetted; in this form, small radius bends can be created.
• The size of the sheet should match the height of the wall to be rounded, this will make the installation process a little easier.

So that in the process of creating a semicircular plasterboard partition there are no unforeseen situations, you should prepare the necessary material in advance:

• Plasterboard sheets
• Metal profile of several types
• Self-tapping screws and dowels

In addition, any construction or finishing process is carried out using a specific set of tools:

• Screwdriver or electric drill with a nozzle
• Scissors for cutting metal
• Plumb or building level
• Ruler and tape measure
• Rope or construction cord
• Marker or pencil

Work on creating a rounded corner from drywall is carried out in a certain sequence:

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Fastening drywall to a pre-rounded partition

For the correct answer to the question of how to make a semicircular drywall partition, it should be understood that the quality of the process performed depends on proper preparation walls and plasterboard.

Before sticking drywall, the wall must first be rounded. If the wall is brick, then outer corner knock down with a perforator and align well. WITH concrete wall act in a similar way, but it should be noted that concrete is much stronger and reinforcing elements come across in it.

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To prepare a drywall sheet, it must be bent. To do this, you need to make a template in accordance with the shape of the wall and choose one of the bending methods.

Dry bending

On one side of the drywall sheet, cardboard is cut, trying to draw the strips parallel to each other. The material is laid on the template, and the space formed by bending between the parts of the sheet is filled with putty. The edges of the sheet can be pressed with bars to keep the shape. The workpiece is left for 24-48 hours to dry. After this time, the material can be used for its intended purpose.

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wet bend

With this method, one side of the sheet is rolled with a needle roller so that water can get to the core of the material. Then the sheet is moistened with water and left for 15-20 minutes to soften the gypsum in the middle layer. The workpiece is placed on the template, the edges are fixed and left to dry completely. This takes approximately 24 hours.

The use of this method has a limitation: the minimum bending radius is 30 cm. Therefore, to create more round shapes it is better to use the dry method.

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To glue the bent sheet, the rounded plasterboard wall must be primed and dried. Then, with separate strokes, you need to apply mounting glue to the wall, attach the workpiece to it and gently press it.

In the process of gluing the wall, it is necessary to make gaps between the floor and the material of about 1 cm. This will allow air to circulate freely, creating optimal conditions for the glue to dry.

With the help of drywall, even simple House master can make a rounded wall with your own hands. This is possible with the observance of the installation technology, as well as with the correct application of the advice and recommendations of experienced craftsmen.

The issues of redevelopment of one's own housing do not arise from scratch. They appear among apartment owners along with the desire to divide the living space with the help of partitions and internal walls. Children of different sexes, professions and even hobbies of family members, as well as the housing itself, acquired in the form of a single concrete box, can become an incentive for adapting diverse premises to the tasks of comfortable living.

It is clear that in one article you cannot talk about all the ways of dividing space - there are a lot of them. But it’s a sin not to tell about one of them, if only because detailed instructions on building a plasterboard partition will help everyone who wants to master the skills of building lightweight, durable and reliable structures.

• Preparation for work;
• Marking the floor, walls and ceiling;
• Installation of guide profiles - PN (UW);
• Installation of vertical racks from a rack profile - PS (CW);
• Installation of jumpers (door and window openings);
• Sheathing the frame with plasterboard sheets on one side;
• Laying the necessary communications: electric cable, pipelines;
• Laying (in the space between racks) and fixing thermal insulation;
• Sheathing of the frame on the reverse side;
• Finishing work.

Try to leave everything behind before the start of work wet processes associated with the preparation and use of mortars, and clean the installation area of ​​the future partition from debris, mortar influx, foreign objects and protect it from sudden temperature changes.

If you have a smooth screed and well-plastered and puttied walls - consider yourself lucky - this is an ideal base for mounting a metal frame.

2. Materials and tools

In order not to be distracted by shopping trips in the process of work, we stock up on the following materials:

• Guide profile (for attaching the structure to the floor and ceiling);
• Rack profile (for vertical installation as the main bearing element);
• Wall drywall 12.5 mm (for single-layer sheathing of the frame);
• Dowel-nails (for attaching the frame to a concrete and brick base);
• Wood screws (for fixing the profile to a wooden base);
• "Bedbugs" or "seeds" (for attaching frame elements);
• Wooden beam (to reinforce the frame at the installation sites of door frames);
• Sealing tape;
• Gypsum-based putty;
• Acrylic primer.

Types of profiles for plasterboard partitions:

For the cost of materials, we turn to the online calculator. Data to be entered: the length of the partition, its width and the number of skin layers.

We acquire the following tools:

• Level (bubble or laser);
• Roulette;
• Plumb (for transferring marks from the floor to the ceiling);
• Marker or pencil;
• Rope;
• Screwdriver;
• Perforator with a drill (in the presence of reinforced concrete walls or ceilings);
• Scissors for metal;
• Hammer (for driving expansion nails);
• construction knife.

3. Partition marking

The profile will need two types: Mon And PS. The first is cut with scissors for metal and attached to the floor and ceiling. Prior to its trimming and installation, floor markings are performed. It is noted on it: the design thickness of the wall (according to the pieces of cardboard attached to the profile), the binding of the racks, window and door openings. Between the racks of the doorway, a gap in the guide profile is provided.

Partition marking methods are given below:

3.1 Marking a perpendicular (90° angle)

Most often, a drywall partition is erected perpendicular to the existing wall, so it becomes necessary to draw a line at an angle of 90 °.

This task can be accomplished in several ways, which we will discuss in detail below.

a) Egyptian triangle method

egyptian triangle is a triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5. It is very important that the Egyptian triangle always has a right angle. For example, a triangle with sides of 15 cm, 20 cm and 25 cm is Egyptian and, accordingly, rectangular.

In order to lay a perpendicular, we need to build an Egyptian triangle, one of the legs of which will lie on bearing wall. An example of construction is given below:

The figure above uses a triangle with sides: 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5 m. You may find it more convenient to draw a triangle of large or smaller sizes. The main thing is to capture the essence: we take some conditional length segment, for example, 0.5 m, then we multiply this number by 3, by 4 and by 5, and thus we get the lengths of the sides of our triangle: 1.5 m, 2.0 m and 2.5 m.

We carry out the construction: we put the point "A" - the base of our perpendicular, then after 1.5 m along the tape measure we set aside the point "B". From point "B" we draw an arc with a radius of 2.5 m, for this you can use a nylon rope and a pencil, and from point "A" we similarly draw an arc with a radius of 2.0 m.

The point of intersection of the arcs - "C" will be the third vertex of the Egyptian triangle. Segment AC will be perpendicular to segment AB, and, accordingly, to the bearing wall. Then, using a metal profile or a nylon cord, you can extend the AC line to the opposite wall. Accordingly, the line AD will be perpendicular to the bearing wall, which is what we need.

b) Perpendicular with a square

This method is less accurate than the first one. This is due to the fact that the square has small size and any unevenness of the wall can affect the final result.

For marking, we apply the square with the short side to the bearing wall, and draw a line along the long side, then this line is extended to the opposite wall.

This method is suitable for flat walls and small areas markup.

c) Perpendicular with a tape measure

Set aside equal segments from the existing wall, as shown in the figure above. This method is also not completely accurate, since existing walls may have flaws and not be perpendicular to each other. However, you can combine the methods, and check the perpendicular obtained using a tape measure with a square.

3.2 Transferring marks from floor to ceiling

After marking the base of the partition, it is necessary to transfer these marks to the ceiling. There are also several ways to do this.

a) With a plumb line

This method is clearly shown in the figure below. The more points you transfer from the floor to the ceiling, the more accurate the final result will be. We draw a line through the transferred points using a profile, it is also very convenient to use a coloring (chopping) cord.

b) Using a bubble level:

Using the bubble level, you can only move the extreme points located near the walls. The method is less accurate than using a plumb bob.

4. Marking a plasterboard partition using a laser level

Above, we examined the methods of marking a partition from a gypsum board using the most available tools. However, if you have a laser level in your arsenal, then it can replace both the plumb line, the bubble level and the Egyptian triangle method.

Laser levels come in various modifications, but as a rule, they are able to build three mutually perpendicular planes. The projections of these planes in the form of a beam are reflected on the walls, floor and ceiling.

These beams are used for marking and further installation of the profile. An example of marking a partition using a laser level is presented in the video:

After marking the partitions, they proceed to the installation of the guide profile.

5. Installation of the guide profile (PN)

Before mounting the guide profile, a sealing tape is glued to its back surface. It is designed to soften the vibrations of the metal structure, dampen sound vibrations, increase the sound-absorbing properties of the frame:

PN profile with a glued seal, it is aligned along the marking line and fixed to a wooden (or concrete) base using self-tapping screws (or dowel nails) with a pitch of 500 mm. Holes in the floor and ceiling are drilled directly through the profile.

The profile is cut with scissors for metal:

Over time, 3 finishing layers will appear along the edges of the frame: plasterboard sheathing (12.5 mm thick), as well as a layer of putty and finish, which will increase the overall thickness of the wall. This feature of the construction of a single-layer partition must be taken into account when marking and linking the wall to the floor plan.

6. Installation of the rack profile (PS)

Racks are made from PS profile 3000 or 4000 mm long. Due to the ribbed surface and curved edges, it has greater bending rigidity. Its width in the design of the partition depends on the height of the repaired premises, the weight of wall items and gypsum boards.

In kitchens, corridors and hallways (in rooms with high traffic), a stronger profile with a width of 75 or 100 mm is installed. A pair of such racks (PS-100) can withstand a door weighing up to 30 kg. When installing more massive structures use the UA profile - a reinforced version of the rack profile with a thickened wall. When mounting a UA-profile, the maximum permissible weight door leaf increases to 70 kg.

Vertical racks are fixed along the edges of the guide profile. They are cut so that a damper gap of 10 mm is formed between the tops of the supports and the ceiling profile, designed for shrinkage of the building.

Be prepared for the fact that the profile may bend in the places of the cut. In case of deformation of the support legs, take pliers in your hands and trim their edges.

After cutting, each of the racks is attached to the lower profile, and then, as a support on a hinge, it is tucked with its free end into the upper guide, aligned vertically and screwed to the PN profile using self-tapping screws.

Similarly, ordinary racks and racks are installed that form the base of the doorway. The difference in their installation is as follows: the former, as a rule, obey the standard step of 400 or 600 mm (because the width of the drywall sheet is 1200 mm), while the latter are installed directly in place and tied to the width of the doorway.

The marking of the axes of ordinary racks starts from the edge of the wall. From it to the center of the first rack (during their alignment and installation, the tail of the tape measure can be hooked onto the edge of the guide profile) and the central axes of other supports are set aside by 600 mm. With a cut chamfer on the edge sheet, the distance to the first post is reduced to 550 mm.

In the case of an increased load on the frame (when tiling the wall, hanging heavy cabinets, boilers, heating radiators on it), the distance between the racks is reduced to 400 mm, remaining a multiple of 1200 mm.

With the above steps of the frame racks, drywall sheets are joined in the middle of the profile.

7. Ways to strengthen the frame

To reinforce the door frame inside the PS-profile (facing the front side into the opening), wooden blocks are placed or, as mentioned above, a UA-profile is installed. The cross section of the bars is selected according to the size of the reinforced profile.

To strengthen the structure of the partition, the following methods are used: they reduce the step between the racks (up to 400 mm), use wooden embedded bars (to reinforce the rack profile), use a paired PS profile.

An additional profile installed inside or near the rack also reinforces the bulkhead structure. In places of fastening attachments the frame is reinforced with embedded elements in the form of wooden blocks or pieces of plywood 2-3 cm thick, which are fixed between the uprights with the help of crabs or semi-crabs.

8. Making a doorway, installing crossbars

The upper part of the doorway is formed using a guide profile (PN). It is cut so that its design length is 30 cm more than the width of the opening. On outside the resulting workpiece make two marks at a distance of 150 mm from the edge of the crossbar.

Both risks should be visible on the sidewalls of the profile: it is along them that it is cut in the direction from the edges of the sidewalls to the mark on the bend of the profile. After that, both edges of the profile are bent at a right angle. It turns out a U-shaped crossbar, which easily moves along the racks and is also easily screwed to them with the help of self-tapping screws - “bugs”. See photo below:

Below are the schemes for installing the profile and sheathing with drywall sheets in the area of ​​​​the doorway:

The joint of drywall sheets should not fall on the rack to which the door frame is attached

Similarly, horizontal crossbars are made. They are used both to reinforce the frame and to join drywall sheets with a significant height of the partition. Therefore, for high walls, it is recommended to make 2-3 rows of horizontal crossbars.

Please note that, according to all the rules for fixing the jumpers, the shanks of adjacent bars are bent in different directions (up / down), and the crossbars themselves are staggered (with a seam spacing of at least 40 mm). This is done so that the horizontal joints of adjacent sheets do not have coincidences and cruciform seams.

9. Fasteners for the construction of plasterboard partitions

1) For fixing the profile to concrete slabs and brick walls are used dowels quick installation dimension 6x40-80 mm. They are screwed along the edges and placed at a distance of 40-50 mm from each other. Shorter analogues with a dimension of 6x40 mm are used to fix the profile to hollow slabs.

The same fastener, but with L = 60 mm, just as reliably attaches it to a brick, and with L = 80 mm - to hollow brick and plastered walls. Nylon dowels of both are inserted into the drilled (through the profile) holes. Spacer nails are hammered in with a hammer or puncher.

2) To assemble the frame, self-tapping screws for metal with a drill size of 13x3.5 mm (seeds) are suitable. It takes an average of 4 such self-tapping screws to install one rack. If you want to save on fasteners, then choose short self-tapping screws with a sharp, rather than a drill tip.

Also, profiles can be connected using a cutter:

3) Larger hardware 3.5x25 mm with flat caps and fine thread pitch is suitable for fastening drywall to a finished metal frame. They are wrapped in the center of the panel and along its perimeter (at a distance of 10-12 mm from the edge). Hats are sunk into the sheet so that they do not break through the cardboard. The sheet takes an average of 60 to 70 screws.

10. Frame sheathing

For sheathing the frame, drywall sheets with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm with a side chamfer are suitable. The latter makes it possible to reinforce the joints with self-adhesive sickle and fill them with high-strength putty.

By the presence of a bevel, as by a marker, the front side of the sheet is determined. Each of them is screwed to three support posts: to two - along the edges and to one - in the center. In this case, the joints of the sheets pass in the middle of the profile. In wet rooms, moisture-resistant drywall (GKLV) is used instead of conventional panels.

In the absence of a factory chamfer, for example, when using drywall scraps, the chamfer must be done independently using a construction knife and a special grater (planer):

When sheathing the partition with two layers of drywall, the sheets of the second row are shifted horizontally by a step of racks, and vertically by at least 400 mm, a similar shift of the sheets is also done when installing the first row of drywall, but on the reverse side of the structure.

The layout of drywall sheets with a two-layer sheathing of the partition

When installing a partition with a height of 3.0 m or less, as a rule, there are no horizontal joints of sheets.

To create a gap near the floor, the sheets are supported on a temporary gasket 10 mm thick and fixed with self-tapping screws.

By trimming the upper edge, a gap is obtained at the ceiling (10 mm wide). Both gaps help protect the structure from premature failure.

It is important to ensure that the beveled edges of the sheets to be mounted are located in the center of the uprights, the shorter edges are along the axis of the crossbars, and the skin seams do not converge at the corners of the door frame.

When fixing drywall sheets with self-tapping screws, the following rules should be followed:

• The distance between the screws should not exceed 250 mm (but with two-layer sheathing for the first row, this value can be increased to 750 mm);
• The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the profile at a right angle;
• The head of the self-tapping screw should be recessed into the GKL sheet by 1 mm and not tear the cardboard;
• The body of the self-tapping screw must enter the metal structure by at least 10 mm;
• The vertical displacement of self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets must be at least 10 mm;
• When mounting self-tapping screws, it is necessary to retreat at least 15 mm from the longitudinal edge of the sheet, and 10 mm from the end edge.

The photo above shows that the distance between the screws should be no more than 250 mm, and the offset of the screws on adjacent sheets should be at least 10 mm

On the left - the correct position of the screw in the drywall sheet, on the right - the incorrect position of the screw: a) the screw is twisted at an angle b) the screw is set too deep c) the screw is not set deep enough

The chamfers of the sheets are joined in the center of the racks, and the short edges of the panels are joined along the axis of the jumpers. If the joints of the latter coincide, then the longitudinal line of the cross-shaped seam will become a source of cracking. And no, even the highest quality finish, will not help here. Therefore, they are joined with a run-up (with a shift) of seams of at least 40 cm.

To cut a sheet of drywall, it must be laid on flat surface and mark with a pencil. A construction knife with replaceable blades is used to cut the top layer of cardboard. Then the sheet must be turned over gently break along the cut line. Then the cardboard is cut from the second side of the sheet (photo below):

Immediately after sheathing the frame on one side, you can start drilling holes (Ø35 mm) in the profile posts. They will be useful to those who lay inside the walls electrical cables. So that the sharp edges of the slots do not damage the braid, they are bent, and the wiring itself is laid in the corrugation.

Also on the building materials market there is a profile with ready-made holes for laying communications.

Holes for sockets and switches are cut using round crowns. You can read more about this.

11. Soundproofing partitions

Thermal insulation is laid in the space between the racks. Styrofoam, mineral wool, isover act as a filler and an artificial barrier to acoustic waves, and under conditions humid environment- expanded polystyrene.

Do not forget about the metal frame, which, as you know, is a good conductor of sound. When connecting its parts, special polymer gaskets are used, and a sealing tape is glued under the guide profiles.

The filler is cut and tightly stuffed between the racks (this is done after sheathing the frame on one side, laying all communications, installing sockets and switches).

The thickness of the insulation is selected so that its surface does not protrude beyond the boundaries of the frame. Otherwise, you will definitely encounter violations of the geometry of the skin when the drywall bulges.

After laying the insulation, the second side of the partition is sewn.

12. Finishing the partition

The joints of drywall sheets are reinforced with a special tape - sickle. Serpyanka has an adhesive surface, so it is glued to drywall sheets without any additional funds. Then a layer of universal putty is applied over the reinforcing tape, since the surface of the sickle is mesh, the putty penetrates deep into the joint. The putty layer is leveled, and the excess is removed.

The quality of plasterboard partition plastering and the number of layers depend on the type of finish. For example, for painting it is necessary to putty as carefully as possible, and when laying tiles High Quality not required, as minor irregularities will be compensated by a layer of tile adhesive.

After the putty has dried, the surface of the partition, which not only improves adhesion with finishing materials, but also protects the partition from moisture.

That's all. I hope that the material was useful to you.

Today, probably, not a single repair can do without drywall. It can be fully called a universal material, since it is also used for simple leveling of surfaces, as well as building certain new structures of various levels of complexity from it.

For example, this great material for the construction of internal partitions in an apartment or house, for example, in order to divide a large room into two separate rooms. Such a task is quite feasible even for a novice builder. Unless, of course, he first understands the “theory” of the question “how to make a wall of drywall”, and in the course of work he begins to adhere to the technological recommendations that will be given to him in this publication.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall plasterboard structures

To begin with, it probably makes sense to briefly highlight the positive and negative sides of the wall frame structure from drywall. Having understood them, it will be possible to determine with skill whether such a partition is suitable for a particular case or not.

So to benefits plasterboard partition structures include the following points:

• The materials used for the construction of such walls are quite light, so they will not weigh down interfloor ceilings. Therefore, the assembled structure will be absolutely safe for the building.
• Drywall walls and partitions are not capital, therefore, for their construction it is not necessary to issue a permit, the receipt of which is associated with the loss of a considerable amount of time, money, effort and nerves.
• Drywall is produced in several versions - this is plain sheets(GKL), moisture resistant (GKLV), fire resistant (GKLO). Lightweight sheets are produced for ceiling structures. Therefore, walls and partitions can be erected from this material in any of the rooms, including in the bathroom or near the stove or fireplace.
• The affordable cost of both the drywall itself and the components for building the frame allows them to be purchased by the family for repairs, even with a modest budget.
• It is quite possible to design and install drywall walls that have complex decorative and useful shapes, such as arched doorways or functional niches and cabinets that allow you to refuse to buy furniture accessories.
• When leveling the walls with this material, it is not necessary to remove the old plaster.
• The construction of plasterboard walls (or when leveling walls with plasterboard wireframe) allows you to immediately carry out work on insulation and soundproofing.
• Electrical wiring can be hidden in the frame of the wall being built.
• There is a full opportunity to do without the involvement of a team of builders, since all work can be done independently or with one assistant.
• The material is "breathable" and environmentally friendly, which is important for the arrangement of residential premises.
• A wall or partition erected in this way is perfectly smooth, suitable for any facing material, be it wallpaper, paint or ceramic tiles.

Is it possible, drywall in the bathroom? Yes, sure!

At correct installation and special surface preparation, GKLV sheets will not be afraid of the specific conditions of a bathroom or combined bathroom. And perfect smooth walls- this is an excellent opportunity to tile them. Instructions for such a finish are contained in a special publication of our portal.

Drywall prices

drywall

Now, for the objectivity of the picture, it is necessary to consider and negative sides drywall construction. It is advisable to know about them in advance, so that later, already during the operation of the rooms, you will not encounter some unexpected inconveniences. :

• A wall made of this material will not be able to withstand hanging any heavy objects directly on drywall, since the sheets are rather thin (12.5 mm), fragile, and the gypsum itself is not particularly strong. Therefore, if in the future there is a plan to hang on the wall, for example, a TV or a wall lamp, then their location must be determined at the design planning stage, and additional jumpers from a metal profile with wooden tabs should be provided for fasteners.
• The wall structure will have minimum thickness about 80 mm, and often - and much more. Thus, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is somewhat hidden. But think about it, what if you use other materials for the partition? Almost any other will give even more thickness. Therefore, this shortcoming can be called very doubtful.

As you can see, these shortcomings are completely solvable problems. From which we can conclude that a plasterboard wall for an apartment is the best option, if necessary, dividing a room into separate zones, or even isolated rooms.

How to build a plasterboard wall yourself?

Materials for the construction of plasterboard walls

After drawing up a project or drawing according to the dimensions taken from the location of the wall, it is necessary to compile a list of all necessary materials so that in the process of work it does not turn out that something is missing and you do not have to interrupt work and run to the nearest hardware store.

Illustration	Brief characteristics and purpose of materials
	Guide metal profiles KNAUF, for example PN 100 × 40 mm for fixing on the ceiling and floors. 100 - profile width in millimeters, which will set the thickness of the frame. If you add two more thicknesses of drywall, then the thickness of the wall will be at least 125 mm. If this is a lot, you can use other similar profiles with a smaller width, for example, PN 50 × 40 (thickness finished wall- 75 mm), or PN 75 × 40 (wall 100 mm thick)
	Rack metal profiles for vertical racks and lintels installed inside the structure. The illustration shows KNAUF PS 100 × 50 mm, but, as mentioned above, narrower ones, PS 50 × 50 or PS 75 × 50, can be selected.
	Sealing self-adhesive sealing tape Dichtungsband of appropriate width (95, 70 or 50 mm, depending on the weight of the selected profiles). It is intended for gluing on rails and rack profiles for their tight mating with walls, ceiling and floor. Thanks to this tape, the design acquires soundproofing qualities - the effect of impact noise transmission is significantly reduced.
	GKL wall drywall sheets 1200 × 2500 × 12.5 mm in size. For the bathroom, as already mentioned, GKLV is taken, and if the cocked wall is located in close proximity to the stove or fireplace, then it is better to use GKLO.
	Reinforcing perforated paper tape for drywall joints. Fiberglass mesh can also be used, specially produced with narrow tapes, and even often with a self-adhesive side.
	Dowel-nails size 6×40mm for fastening rails to load-bearing surfaces.
	Self-tapping screws for drywall for metal - for fastening profiles to each other (you can use "bugs" or self-tapping screws with a wide press head, as shown in the illustration), and for fixing drywall sheets to the structure. The most popular self-tapping screws are 3.5 × 35 mm or 3.5 × 25 mm. No longer needed
	Primer for drywall can be transparent or white. The latter is most often used in cases where the surface is being prepared for wallpapering.
	Putty for drywall, used for sealing joints and holes from self-tapping screws, and then for continuous application in a thin layer on the wall surface. Putty can be purchased in paste form (much more expensive) or dry form (requires preparation).
	Mineral insulation with a thickness corresponding to the thickness of the intended wall. For living rooms, it is better to choose medium-density basalt material. Insulation grades are directly intended for vile purposes. Excellent proved themselves, for example, "ISOVER Warm house”, “KNAUF Acoustic partition”, “URSA PUREONE”, “ROCKWOOL Light Butts SCANDIC”, “ACOUSTIC GROUPE Shumanet BM” and others.
	Wooden beam, with a section that will correspond to the width of metal profiles for bookmarks, as well as to form a door frame.

Mounting tools

Without the necessary tools, as you know, it will not be possible to carry out any construction work. To build a drywall wall, you will need a minimum tool kit, which includes:

illustration	Purpose of the tool
	Laser (better) or regular bubble building level for accurate marking. The level is also necessary for the installation of the frame - to control the correct installation of parts.
	The paint cord will allow you to quickly and accurately beat off a straight line on any surface.
	A plumb line, even with a laser level, is still able to help - with its help, you can quickly and accurately project the lines of the wall from the ceiling to the floor, so that the partition will be installed perfectly vertically, without tilting.
	Roulette is necessary for any construction work; when building a plasterboard wall, you can’t do without it either.
	A construction square will be required for marking the wall, marking and cutting profiles and drywall sheets. Elbows are manufactured in different options and you should choose a more convenient one for work.
	A hammer will be required when attaching guides to solid surfaces (ceiling, floor, walls). They hammer dowel-nails.
	A special drywall knife or even its stationery "brother" - for cutting sheets.
	A hacksaw or an electric jigsaw can also be used to cut sheets.
	Scissors for metal or "grinder" for cutting a profile. Hand tools are safer to use and do not damage the galvanized layer when cutting.
	A puncher is necessary if the profiles have to be fixed to concrete surfaces. Sometimes it is quite possible to do without it, if the material to which the profiles are attached is “pliable”.
	A screwdriver will help you quickly cope with the installation of profiles and drywall to the frame.
	A set of spatulas, 3÷4 pieces, from the widest (about 400 mm) to narrow (50 mm). necessary at different stages of the wall puttying.
	Roller or wide brush - for applying a primer to drywall before finishing it
	A construction grater with interchangeable nozzles is needed for grouting the joints of the hardening of the putty composition, for smoothing the wall after puttying.
	Prosekatel. It's good to have this tool on hand as well, as it will speed up the connection significantly. metal elements frame. If it is not there, the profiles can be connected with metal screws.

Some nuances of installing plasterboard partitions

Before proceeding to a step-by-step examination of the process of erecting a drywall wall, it is necessary to consider the features of some works so as not to return to these issues further.

• The frame for plasterboard sheathing can be made not only from a galvanized metal profile, but also from an ordinary wooden beam. The second option will cost a little more, but the structural strength will, perhaps, even be higher.

If a beam is chosen for the frame, then the horizontal jumpers are attached to the vertical posts with metal corners, which will be required to fix one part four pieces (two on each side). They must hold the bar both above and below for reliability and stability.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

1. Details of the strapping of the frame (frame), fixed to the main surfaces of the room.
2. Vertical racks of the frame - are made necessarily from a single bar.
3. Horizontal lintels of the frame, giving the structure rigidity.
4. Jumpers are fixed on vertical posts and strapping beam with the help of metal corners fixed with self-tapping screws.
5. Frame fastenings to capital surfaces - dowel-nails.

• Due to standard width drywall sheet is 1200 mm, and it must be fixed at least along three lines, along the edges and along the center line, the vertical posts are positioned so that the distance between their axes is 600 mm.

• GKL sheets are fixed to the frame using special self-tapping screws for metal or wood (depending on the frame material). The head of the self-tapping screw, after screwing it in, must be recessed into the drywall by 2 ÷ 3 mm - for this, special bits for a screwdriver with a “skirt” limiter are convenient.

The space above the cap is left to fill it with putty - so the fasteners will become completely invisible. Sheets are fixed to all racks and lintels of the frame, self-tapping screws are screwed in in increments of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.

Prices for waterproof drywall

waterproof drywall

• It is very important to cut drywall correctly: if you do not know how this process is performed, you can ruin the material. A broken or even only slightly broken sheet is no longer used for mounting on the wall as a whole. True, from its whole part it will be possible to subsequently cut the right details smaller sizes.

To get an even piece of GCR required size, you must first mark it up on a whole sheet. A line is drawn along the marked points. Then, applying a metal ruler to it, a cut is made along it with pressure with a sharp knife.

At this stage, it is important to cut the top layer of drywall. After that, the sheet is laid so that the cut line is on the edge of the table. A slight hand pressure is applied to the area protruding beyond the countertop, due to which the gypsum layer breaks exactly along the incision line. It remains only to cut the bottom layer of cardboard with a knife.

• If you have to join two pieces of a sheet that do not have a factory chamfer, then you need to make cuts along their edges with a knife or a special planer. Overall Width cuts should be approximately 10 mm. This groove is necessary to fill it with putty, which, together with the reinforcing tape, will bind the sheets together.

• If it is planned to arrange a doorway on the wall being erected (and this is how it most often happens), it should be strengthened with a beam. This is done in different ways:

- you can immediately use a beam instead of a galvanized profile that forms an opening;

– wooden parts can be inserted into inner space metal profile;

- instead of one metal rack on each side of the opening, two are installed, at a distance of 50 mm from each other, and then a wooden door frame is installed in such a reinforced doorway.

• Experts recommend fixing on installed frame walls with two layers of drywall - this will increase the strength and soundproofing of the structure.

• If it is necessary to form parts with corners from a metal profile, cuts on its walls must be made at an angle. It is easier to carry out this process with metal scissors, but you can make cuts with a grinder, observing the highest accuracy.

To make the metal bend even, the cuts on both side walls must be the same.

The lower part shown in the figure is often made, for example, to form the lintel of a doorway.

• When installing drywall sheets on the frame, it is imperative to leave a deformation gap 10 ÷ 12 mm wide between the gypsum board and the floor surface. To simplify this task and make the gap even, before installing the sheet in place on the floors, you can lay several scraps of the same drywall. After attaching the sheet to the frame, these liners are removed. And the gap, depending on the type of room, is filled either with sealant (for example, in a bathroom) or with mounting foam (in rooms with normal operating conditions).

Construction of a drywall wall - step by step

The table below will step by step show the process of building an internal drywall wall.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first stage of work is always the marking of the surfaces of the room in which the wall will be installed. This task is best solved with the help of a laser plane builder. He will immediately determine and outline the necessary lines on the ceiling, floors and opposite walls. If this device is not at hand, then a building level, a plumb line, a metal ruler and a marker are used for marking. First, a line on the floor surface is determined. To do this, the same distance is laid off from the parallel wall in several places along the side walls. Then, a masking cord is stretched from one point to another, and with its help a line is beaten off on the surface. It should form a right angle with one and the second side wall. Next, the line must be fixed by drawing a marker along it, having previously laid the ruler.
	Focusing on the horizontal line of the floor, vertical projections on the side walls of the wall are determined from it - the plumb line will be the most accurate in this matter. The top line of the future wall is determined by connecting vertical lines on opposite walls on the ceiling - it is also easiest to beat it off with a paint cord. Ceiling and floor lines must be perfectly in the same vertical plane. You can check their correct location using a plumb line - as shown in the illustration.
	Now, on the line drawn on the floor, the location of the future doorway should be noted, according to the draft. As a rule, the width of interior openings is 800 mm. There may be other sizes, but when leaving the opening, both the width of the door and the parameters of the door frame are taken into account.
	The next step is the preparation of profiles for mounting the frame. First, the necessary measurements are made and, if necessary, cutting. It is better to immediately prepare all the structural elements that will be attached to the capital surfaces. Then, on those planes of the profiles with which they will be pressed against the surfaces of the walls, floor and ceiling, a sealing tape is glued.
	First, the guide is attached to the floor along the line marked on its surface. To do this, the profile is laid on the floor, 100 mm recede from the wall - the center of the hole is outlined. Then the first hole is drilled through the profile in the floor.
	A dowel-nail is immediately installed and driven into the hole with a hammer. Thanks to this precaution, the profile will be fixed to the floor in the required position, and it will be much easier to drill the remaining holes.
	The profile is fastened with an approximate step of 500 mm. When drilling the following holes, you should make sure that the profile does not move from the drawn line.
	Fastening the edge of the profile facing the doorway is carried out with an indent from it of 200 mm. This is necessary in order to leave free space for fixing the vertical reinforcing and forming the doorway racks that are installed in this place. So that the dowel-nail head does not interfere with installation.
	Next, the metal profile is fixed to the ceiling. It is desirable that the profile be solid, but if it has to be made up of two segments, then their joint should not be above the doorway.
	When the horizontal profiles on the floor and ceiling are fixed, they are connected by vertical guides fixed to the walls. Vertical racks are inserted inside the horizontal rails. Their fastening is carried out using a cutter or self-tapping screws for metal.
	The next step is the marking and installation of vertical rack profiles. As mentioned above, a distance of 600 mm must be maintained between the center line of two adjacent profiles. The racks are inserted into the guide profile and fixed with a cutter or metal screws. It is very important when installing racks to control their vertical position using building level or plumb. Particular attention should be paid to the posts forming the doorway, as they must be fixed perfectly perpendicular to the rails.
	Racks framing the doorway should be fixed more rigidly in the structure. It is desirable that they be additionally reinforced with a wooden beam, which is inserted and fixed inside the metal profile. For the extreme pillars of the doorway, it is more convenient to use reinforced perforated profiles, but ordinary rack profiles are also suitable.
	Special durable perforated corners are screwed to the edges of the extreme racks, they are fixed with screws and nuts, but the latter are not completely tightened, leaving the possibility of adjusting the height of the rack at the installation site. The ability to adjust the height is only possible if a perforated profile and corners are used - that is why they are more convenient for installation.
	The rack is installed on the corners in the guide profiles on the floor and ceiling.
	The end posts must be checked for perfect verticality using a building level.
	After that, holes in the floor are drilled through the holes in the corners through the guide profile - for dowel-nails.
	Dowel-nails are installed in the holes and hammered into the base with a hammer.
	Next, the nuts are finally tightened on the fixing screws. Thus, the lower part of the rack will be fixed.
	After that, the upper side of the rack is fixed in the same way on the upper guide profile. That is, two holes are drilled in the ceiling through the corner and the guide profile, through which the dowel-nails are driven in. Then, after a final revision of the correct position of the drain, the nuts on the fixing screws are tightened.
	Further, the height of the doorway is determined and marked on the vertical posts. Usually it lies in the range from 2100 to 2300 mm. The width between the uprights is measured - it is necessary for the manufacture of a horizontal jumper that limits the opening in height.
	A horizontal jumper is made - usually from a guide profile. You will need a segment, the length of which is the sum of the width of the doorway and the side folds, with which the jumper will be attached to the vertical posts. The length of the folds can vary from 200 to 300 mm. The section of the profile is marked, and then cuts are made along the markings with metal scissors. Then, the side parts of the profile are bent at a right angle relative to the horizontal part of the part. An example of a cut was previously shown in the illustration when the basic principles of installation were considered.
	The finished jumper is installed in the place marked for it, while its bent parts are put on vertical racks. Further, using the level, its horizontalness is checked.
	Fastening of the jumper is made with self-tapping screws, on both sides of the racks. You will need two or three self-tapping screws on each side of the mount, depending on the length of the folds chosen. Additionally, it is recommended to strengthen the jumper with a wooden tab, which is laid and fixed in the horizontal part of the jumper.
	The completion of strengthening the structure of the doorway is the installation of vertical lintels that will connect the ceiling guide and the horizontal lintel that limits the doorway. As a rule, two parts are used for this. If a wooden tab is installed in the lintel, then the edges of the vertical posts are cut, and fixation is made outside the horizontal lintel. If the wooden tab was not used, then the vertical posts are inserted inside the upper and lower rails, and then fixed with a notcher or self-tapping screws. The distance between the main vertical post and the secondary reinforcing one should be approximately 150 mm, which will also add additional rigidity to the structure.
	When the frame is completely ready, inside the structure, if necessary, wiring is laid, the locations of sockets and switches are determined, cables are connected to these points. To make the wiring safe, it is recommended to pass the cables through a special corrugated insulating tube. All connecting nodes must be well insulated.
	After completing the installation of the frame, you can proceed to its sheathing with drywall. Installation of sheets usually starts from the main wall. Attached first bottom sheet material, and at the same time, one should not forget about the deformation gaps that should be left between the gypsum board and the main surfaces. If the first vertical row of sheets has horizontal joints, then in the next row the joints should “scatter” at a distance of at least 400 mm from the joints of the sheets of the first row. The distance between the horizontal lintel of the doorway and the nearest joint between the sheets must be at least 150 mm.
	In order to prepare a part that will be fixed above the doorway and to the side pillar, dimensions are taken from its planned location. And then a fragment of the required configuration is cut out from the GKL according to the parameters taken. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the location of the vertical posts above the doorway, as well as the fact that the edge of the panel to be cut out should go half the width of the first or second post - for fastening with self-tapping screws.
	Further, the second side of the doorway is sheathed - the work is carried out according to the same principle. After that, the next row of sheets is installed and so on - to the end. The last sheet of mail will probably also need to be cut to width. At the same time, the recommended spacing of the joints is observed - as mentioned above. After completing the installation of drywall, those edges of the sheets on which there are no factory chamfers are cut at an angle - this was discussed earlier.
	The next step is to seal the joints with putty, on which a reinforcing tape is glued. Another layer of putty is applied on top of the tape. On this, the lower layer of drywall, it is not yet necessary to close the self-tapping screws with putty.
	After the putty composition dries, a second layer of drywall is mounted on the wall (if it was so provided by the project). When installing it, it is necessary to ensure that the joints of the lower skin layer do not coincide with the joints of the upper one, both horizontally and vertically. Trimming edges, puttying and reinforcing joints outer layers sheathing is made a little later, already at the same time on one and the second side of the mounted wall.
	If it was planned to install a socket in the wall, then the socket for the socket is drilled at this stage - this will require a special drywall drill bit. Then, cables are brought out through the hole, and a socket is installed in which a socket or switch will be mounted. Drywall sockets have a special design, and are fixed by tightening the screws that press the stoppers from the back of the cladding.
	Having completed the sheathing of one side of the wall, on the other side, insulation material is laid between the vertical posts. It should fit as tightly as possible to the elements of the frame. After laying the insulation, the second side of the wall is sheathed with drywall. It is clear that approximately according to the same algorithm as the first side.
	When the second side of the structure is sheathed with two layers of drywall, on both sides the edges are trimmed at the joints of sheets that do not have a chamfer. Then they must be treated with a primer. Next, putty is applied to the joints, a reinforcing tape is glued on it, on which a layer of putty is applied. Further, puttying and reinforcement of the lines of the joints is carried out, and besides this, the holes from the caps of the fixing screws are also processed with putty. When the putty dries, the places of its application should be leveled with a grater.
	The next step is first dedusting, and then - continuous priming of the surface. This stage of work is preparatory for the final leveling of the entire surface with putty
	For any top coat a plasterboard wall needs to be puttied with a thin layer of mortar. This must be done so that between, for example, wallpaper and cardboard, there is a layer of putty. Otherwise, at the next repair, when removing the old, boring or worn out decorative coating walls, along with it, part of the cardboard will also come off. That is, you can seriously damage the integrity of the entire wall. The putty layer, after it dries, must be well sanded to perfect smoothness - both for painting the wall and for wallpapering. An exception can be made only for facing ceramic tiles- perfect smoothness is not needed here. After the wall is completely leveled by grinding, it is primed again - already for the subsequent finishing.

How is a plasterboard wall prepared for finishing?

In the table, the instructions were only slightly affected by the attention to the operation of preparing the sheathed wall for finishing. And this is an important question that requires considerable skill and deserves separate consideration. Therefore, we invite the reader to go to the article-instruction of our portal.

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So, the construction of a frame wall-partition with plasterboard sheathing is a completely feasible task even for a novice builder. Feel free to get down to business - and with diligence, everything should work out!

We will conclude the article with a video in which the masters share their secret of building a partition with soundproofing abilities.

Video: Drywall wall with soundproofing

Redevelopment is a favorite method of changing the geometry of rooms by interior designers. Main tool in this case - the installation of plasterboard partitions.

These are lightweight, inexpensive and prefabricated structures. In this article, we will tell you in detail how to properly mark the partition with your own hands, mount the frame from the profiles and sew it up with drywall.

Drywall compared to others building materials (brick, partition blocks) has more advantages. Sheets of the big sizes that allows to level the big area in a few minutes. They are cut and installed without dust and dirt. The material is resistant to fire, and acts as an additional soundproof barrier.

Main advantages:

• light and fairly durable material;
• low cost compared to other materials;
• ease of installation - even a person without experience can handle it with a minimum set of tools.

Can I make my own partition?

A drywall partition may well be made even by non-professionals. Of course, you can first consult with an experienced craftsman, read the information in order to avoid imperfections and defects. We recommend that you take the advice from our article as a basis.

In general, you need to provide yourself with a set of tools, the necessary amount of materials, and, well, put this article in the "bookmarks". By the way, you will most likely need an assistant, because. it is almost impossible to mount a large sheet of plasterboard alone.

What to buy, how to calculate?

First, you need to decide on the size of the required partition. Having determined the number of sheets on one side, do not forget that the same volume of sheets will be required to sew the second side of the partition. Among the materials you will also need:

• Guide profiles, size 50x40. You need enough profile to sheathe the entire perimeter of the partition with it.
• Rack profiles 50x50. They differ from guides by shelves at the top and bottom. The calculation is carried out individually, based on what type of installation will be used by the master.
• Dowels and self-tapping screws, 45 mm long - for fixing the guide profiles to the floor, walls and ceiling
• Self-tapping screws for metal 35mm - for fixing drywall to the frame;
• Self-tapping screws with a 10 mm press washer for attaching profiles to each other;
• Perforated paper and plaster putty.

In addition to the material, you need to ensure the availability of construction tools. If there is no such thing at home, in order not to spend money on buying it, you can rent equipment. In the installation, a puncher, drill, plumb line, level, screwdriver are useful.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard partition

The technological process of installing drywall partitions consists of four stages, except for puttying and finishing. Everything starts with a markup. Despite the seemingly simple stage, it needs to be given a lot of time. After marking, they proceed to the installation of guides and the installation of rack profiles. On last step sheets are sewn onto the frame.

This is how the schematic work plan looks like. However, for accuracy, we will consider each of them in detail.

markup

We immediately note the importance of the stage. If you make a mistake in marking, this can lead to the fact that the partition will not be strong, not the correct shape.

The markings for the future partition begin to be done from the floor. To do this, on the surface, using a marker or pencil, make marks for the location of the front and rear walls of the structure. If the skin will consist of one layer, then an indent of 1.2 cm is made from the marked mark ( thickness of one sheet of drywall). According to the new marks, the guide profiles are laid out.

Next, we proceed to transfer the marks to the ceiling and side walls. The procedure is complicated (in the absence of a laser level), but everything is solved. This will require a plumb line. With it, we mark the marks on the ceiling and side walls so that the perimeter of the structure is in the same plane.

Frame installation

The fastening of the guide profiles starts from the floor. If soundproofing is required in the room, you can glue a special sealing tape to the floor and ceiling at the installation site of the guide profile (you can ask a consultant in the store).

The guides are fastened with dowel-nails or self-tapping screws ( if the floors are wooden).

When the perimeter of the future partition is marked with guide profiles, we proceed to cutting the rack profile to size. The main thing is to place the vertical profile in level, leading it into the already mounted guides. The height of the rack profile should be 10-15 mm less than the height of the ceiling, which will make it easy to expose the product.

The metal profile must be located in the place of the future doorway.

The distance between the profiles must be exactly 60 cm so that the joints of the drywall sheets ( their width is 120 cm) fell in the middle of the rack profile. You can strengthen the structure with horizontal jumpers.

Also, you can additionally fix wooden blocks in the places of doorways ( "mortgages"). This solution will avoid difficulties in the installation of the door block.

We fasten drywall

In order to conveniently fix drywall sheets to vertical profiles, their middle marks are made on the ceiling and floor. Installation begins with fixing solid sheets with self-tapping screws. Fastening to profiles must be done in increments of 20-30 cm. The type of self-tapping screw is gypsum metal.

It is desirable that there be as many whole sheets as possible, and fewer segments. In this case, the integrity and stability of the partition is increased. When all solid sheets are fixed, you can start cutting. To cut correctly, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure, a mounting knife and a ruler. After making an incision with a knife, the sheet breaks and is cut from the other side.

The first side of the structure is sewn up first. After sewing, insulation is laid between the profiles, as a rule, it is mineral wool. However, the task of wool in this case is not so much to insulate, but to increase soundproofing properties. When the insulation is laid, you can start sewing the second side.

Very often, the design of the room is accompanied by curves and curly lines, and the same features are transferred to the partition.

How to cut drywall

As a rule, drywall sheets are cut using a mounting knife. To do this, a deep incision is made along the entire length on one of its sides, then the sheet is taken for a break. Due to the fact that the outer layer of cardboard is cut, the inner filling of gypsum breaks easily. it remains only to cut the bottom layer of cardboard with a knife. The result is a fairly even cut, but if irregularities are present, they can be easily eliminated with a planer or the same knife.

In addition to the knife, you can use a number of other tools:

• hacksaw ( the most common, with fine teeth);
• electric jigsaw - with its use it is easy to cut curly parts, if any are present in the project;
• milling cutter and drill with a crown - suitable if you need to make a round hole.

Reinforcement of the bulkhead for the attachment of heavy equipment

Often, on assembled partitions, the owners plan to hang a TV, music system, shelf, etc. If there are such plans, then you need to take care of them even at the frame assembly stage, in other words, mark the places when marking and strengthen them wooden beams. They are mounted along the entire length of the rack profile.

The choice of type of reinforcement depends on what load will be applied to the surface.

For example, tiles will become one of the sides as a finish. In such a situation, moisture-resistant drywall is attached to the profile, and the frame is reinforced with horizontal jumpers from the profile, since the tile is heavy, and even a layer of glue.

Putty joints

At the end of the fastening of drywall sheets to the frame, it is considered that the installation process is completed. Now begins a new stage of finishing work and finishing decoration with finishing materials. However, before that, it is necessary to putty the seams.

The puttying of the seams occurs using a sickle mesh ( in fact, the sickle mesh is an outdated material. It is more practical to use strips of perforated paper for putty), which is glued at the joints of the sheets. paper tape glued to the seams either with PVA glue, or simply by moistening it with water.

Let's start mixing putty. It is important to understand that you should not immediately knead a large bucket, as it must be worked out before the mixture begins to solidify. The hardened mixture is not subject to re-mixing of water, since its properties have already been lost. The putty is applied to the joints with a spatula, while the master must smooth and level it as much as possible so that there are no problems with the finishing putty of the sheets.

Not only the joints are sealed with a mixture, but also the caps of the self-tapping screws. The mesh is not glued onto the hats, and you do not need to worry that when the putty dries, rye spots form. The hardware used for fixing is resistant to moisture, and their surface is resistant to corrosion.

Further actions depend on the chosen decorative covering of the partition. If the wall is to be painted, then, of course, a second layer of finishing putty will be required over the entire surface. For wallpaper, panels, tiles and other types of finishes, you do not need to spend money on putty. Although some experts still recommend going through the putty a second time over the entire wall area.

After the mixture dries, the wall is sanded with fine sandpaper. Thus, it is possible to achieve maximum evenness and smoothness.