Handrail for stairs with your own hands. Installing handrails on a ladder, wall - mounting options Do-it-yourself stair railings

Relatively recently, new options for fences for summer cottages made of polycarbonate have appeared. The well-proven material is now used in the production of fences. This fence is very easy to install and next to advantageous advantages compared to standard fences.

An example of a polycarbonate fence

Thanks to their excellent performance characteristics the use of such a fence is quite relevant both for the conditions of urban development, and as a country fence.
There are two types of polycarbonate: cellular and monolithic. Each of them has its own strength characteristics:

Cellular differs in relatively light weight and special structure, which allows the use of polycarbonate for the manufacture of light fences;
Monolithic, in turn, has a greater thickness, and therefore has a heavier weight. However, this species is well resistant to increased wind loads, which makes it preferable in regions with difficult weather conditions.

Like the construction of any other fence, do-it-yourself installation of a polycarbonate fence begins with the installation of supports.

Installation scheme for fence posts

As a rule, concrete or metal shaped pipes are chosen, which are installed in pre-drilled wells.

If a concrete pillar is being made, a special formwork is made for it, or asbestos or plastic pipe, which, after setting the concrete, is carefully removed;
Metal supports are necessarily pre-treated with an anti-corrosion solution, and a crushed stone cushion is poured into the wells.

The next step should be the manufacture of a frame, without which it is impossible to do. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the sheets will be led or simply torn off by gusts of wind.

The fact is that polycarbonate does not have sufficient rigidity, and therefore additional reinforcement with a metal profile or corner is required.

polycarbonate fence option

As a rule, the design is made in the form of three guides, the distance between which should be about 0.5–1.0 m. In some cases, a metal profile is allowed on the sides of each polycarbonate sheet. This not only gives additional strength to the fence, but also provides a more attractive appearance.

Polycarbonate itself is already mounted on the frame, while there are some installation nuances that must be taken into account when carrying out work.

Features of installation and fastening

Even a beginner in the construction business can mount a polycarbonate fence with his own hands, however, during installation it is necessary to take into account some factors due to the characteristics of the material.

The last step in working with polycarbonate is the removal protective film and the design of the material with additional elements. For these purposes, you can use decorative elements made of stone or install additional illumination. Looks particularly advantageous.

Types of polycarbonate fences

Polycarbonate goes well with almost any kind of material, with the possible exception of wood. This is due to the peculiarity of the characteristics: both of them are distinguished by the ability to expand under the influence environment.

Therefore, this combination can lead to bending of the polycarbonate and loss of appearance the entire fence. However, there are many other poles that are quite suitable for installation.

Which option to choose depends on the size of your budget, since the cost of materials varies quite a lot. The most budget options are poles made of metal and concrete, brick and stone will cost a little more.

Example metal poles for fence

Why choose polycarbonate fencing

It is worth mentioning right away that a polycarbonate fence is not sufficiently resistant to impacts, but it is quite acceptable in quality.

If such a fence is installed in compliance with the technology and heavy stones are not deliberately thrown at it, then it will stand for quite a long time.

Polycarbonate is produced in transparent and translucent versions, which makes this material extremely convenient for use in the country.

The material flows freely sunlight while filtering out harmful ultraviolet for plants;
Transparent polycarbonate is used if plants need a lot of light, translucent - to create partial shade;
Another use case transparent material- when required good review the territory behind the fence, for example, when fencing car parks;
A translucent fence, on the contrary, will hide your site from prying eyes.

The following advantage of polycarbonate is especially relevant for summer cottages: this material absorbs sound waves due to its cellular structure, providing reliable sound insulation of the territory behind the fence. No less effectively, such a fence protects the site from dust.
In accordance with the technology of its manufacture, polycarbonate is produced in various color scheme and does not require additional processing. In addition, plastic plugs, corners and other elements produced for this fence also have a wide variety of colors.

Such a variety of tinted solutions allows you to make original fence, which will carry not only a functional load, but will also become a decorative element of the surrounding landscape. In addition, there is a significant saving of both money and time, since the material does not require additional coloring.

An example of a polycarbonate fence with forged elements

Polycarbonate is practically not affected by the environment, the material is not afraid of moisture, does not mold and does not corrode.

Tolerates temperature fluctuations well correct installation), excellent resistance to wind loads and long-term exposure to sunlight.

In addition, the material is absolutely not subject to negative impacts insects. Such properties of polycarbonate favorably distinguish it from other types of fences.

Polycarbonate is also quite plastic and able to bend in the right direction, which allows you to install fences of various shapes. For example, if the fence is planned to be made in the form of a semicircle, it is not difficult to make the necessary structure from polycarbonate.

Not always fences for balconies and terraces are provided during their construction. Sometimes, the need for a fence on the terrace arises later.

For example, you have small children, you need to protect outdoor terrace from the wind, or you just decided to change the color of the recreation area and the area near the house or in the country.

Terrace fencing options

To begin with, you should figure out what kind of fences are for terraces and balconies in general and for wooden terraces in particular:

1. By appearance

closed, designed to protect the veranda from the wind or prying eyes.

open - bearing more decorative than functional load.

2. By material

The choice of material depends on the overall design of the estate.

Synthetic materials

Valued for their ability to withstand temperature extremes. They have increased strength, and also put forward a minimum of maintenance requirements.

Terrace railings made of wood-polymer composite (WPC). This modern combined material visually similar to painted white or Brown color wood. At the same time, it is more durable, not subject to swelling and fading. This means it requires a minimum of maintenance. Today, WPC terrace fences are gradually gaining their customers.

. Polyvinyl chloride has also found its application here. The main attractive feature of such fences is cheapness. However, they are quite fragile, which prevents their wide distribution.

natural materials

. Such fences must be very elegant in order not to overload the structure and not increase the load on the foundation. Example in the photo

. Metal/steel is rarely used on its own, more often integral part metal fencing. However, there are also such options.

. Here the main element is tempered or laminated glass. Suitable for those who want to prevent dust from entering the terrace, protect themselves from the wind, and at the same time not restrict their view.

. It is not advisable to use such material for wooden terraces, because. he renders heavy load to the foundation. However, it is quite suitable for balconies.

Terrace railings made of polycarbonate honeycomb or monolithic. Lightweight and transparent are becoming more common. This is facilitated by low weight, low cost and ease of manufacture.

– a stainless steel cable or rope stretched around the perimeter of the terrace acts as a fence.

- look beautiful and unusual.

Wooden railings for the terrace. The device of wooden fences has not lost its popularity, despite the difficulty in maintenance. Several factors contributed to this: availability, relative cheapness of the material, the ability to make it yourself, the ease of installation and replacement of individual sections, the ability to give the fence any configuration. In addition, no species can be compared in the number of variations with wooden fences for terraces.

3. By type of performance

Each material has its own approach to execution.

A fence for a terrace made of wood can be made in one of three variations:

Horizontal (i.e. horizontal arrangement of lintels, supports, balusters)

Vertical (i.e. vertical arrangement lintels, supports, balusters)

Cross (i.e. cross / intersecting arrangement of jumpers, supports, balusters)

Despite the wide variety of varieties, the photo of fences for a wooden terrace shows that they all fit into these three types.

When choosing the type and materials for fencing, you should consider:

material compatibility with overall design site;
weight future design;
requirements for operation and maintenance;
the availability of the material;
material cost;
the possibility of replacing damaged structural elements;
the opportunity to carry out work on the arrangement and replacement of the fence with their own hands.

How to make a fence for a wooden terrace

For the device you will need the following components:

supports;
balusters;
railing for a wooden terrace.

If the supports and railings carry a functional load, then the balusters, in addition, also serve as a decorative decoration.

Balusters for the terrace - photo with varieties

If the terrace is more than 30 cm above the ground, one or more steps must be provided.

If more than a meter- you will need a railing for a wooden terrace made of wood.

Building a fence for a wooden terrace with your own hands

The height of the fence is determined, for the terrace the optimal size is about one meter.
supports are installed. For horizontally arranged wooden elements, this is the place of their fixation. The distance between the supports should not exceed 120 cm. The gap depends on the type of construction and the weight of the individual elements, as well as on the wind load in the region. Supports can protrude beyond the railing and act as elements supporting the roof.
install balusters. The frequency depends on the size of the baluster. It is generally accepted that the distance between the balusters on the terrace should be no less than their width.
install railings.

How to make a staircase to the terrace with railings and railings

Calculation of the angle of inclination of the stairs and the location of individual elements

If the angle is too large, the stairs will be inconvenient to use. If small, it will take up a lot of space in front of the terrace. The optimal angle of inclination of the stairs is 45 o.

Making a kosour - the basis for fastening the steps.

Installation of stringers. The stability of the entire structure depends on the reliability of the fastening of the kosour.

Terrace stairs installation. The installation process is shown in the picture.

At the end, the installation of balusters and railings.

Terrace railings - photo

Conclusion

We hope you have learned from this article. useful information on the installation of railings and fences for wooden terraces.

Hello Semenych! I really liked your story about how to equip the stairs yourself - very sensible and even without grammatical errors, which is simply amazing in our time. I am writing to seek advice. experienced craftsman. The point is the following. We built a 2-story extension to old apartment. Due to financial difficulties built a primitive wooden stairs(so far without railings). A young family with a 9-month-old child lives upstairs, while we, the old people, live downstairs. The child is very active, and the question arose about the device of the railing to avoid trouble. For the same financial reasons, we cannot afford to invite specialists to make wooden railings ourselves - there is no skill and knowledge. At the family council, they decided to make a railing in the very simple version: racks - from a "square" metal pipe, spaced 0.5 m apart, filling between the racks - transparent polycarbonate 6-10 mm thick. The technical characteristics of polycarbonate (strength) seem to allow its use in this capacity. The problem is in its attachment to the racks. What would you advise about this and the whole project in general?

Sincerely, Izmailov Vladimir, Ulyanovsk.

Hello, Vladimir from Ulyanovsk!

The question, as they say, is certainly an interesting one. My grandson has exactly the same number of months as your grandson (or granddaughter?). And he climbs where he can and where he can’t at all. For such guys, an eye, but an eye is constantly needed.

The issue can be solved radically by exchanging floors for living. Which, of course, will not save in a couple of months from the child's running up and down the stairs.

Idea using profile pipe and polycarbonate sheets for mounting stairs deserves attention. No one will give a 100% guarantee that such a ladder will not be broken by a child (meaning polycarbonate). But you can try to foresee all sorts of incidents.

I am interested in the statistics of child injuries in our country. There are many incidents with children who are injured on a swing, especially metal ones. Sometimes "smart" constructors make the swing so that between the swing stand and the armature on which the seat is fixed, there is a distance of about 10 centimeters, which is commensurate with the child's head. With all the consequences. Or the mosquito net on the plastic windows of the loggia does not have a secure fastening, as a result of which it may end up on the ground with a child leaning on it. And much more.

Many years ago, my teacher, doctor of technical sciences, Grigory Illarionovich Leskov, said words that stuck in my memory: "Any mechanism or design must be designed for a fool." It was meant not that all people are fools, but that everything should be like that, or strive for such perfection, so as not to provoke a person to any trouble in any case.

If you reached into the electrical panel, then when you open the door, the electricity should turn off. If you walk up the stairs concrete stairs, then ceramic tile they should not be slippery in any weather. If there is a staircase, then the more landings and turns it has, the less likely it is that, having “crashed” on the upper step, a person must not reach the lower step.

This means that with any design of your stairs, it should not be steeper than 45 degrees, but it is better to have a slope of about 30 degrees. Have wide and low steps. And platforms two or three steps wide every meter, a maximum of one and a half, will not let you roll far.

I will not bore you with the calculations that must be made before you start building a staircase, especially since you don’t ask about it. Nevertheless - optimal in the individual housing construction steps are considered to be about 150 millimeters high and about 300 millimeters wide. At least such dimensions are in the old merchant and manor houses, as well as in monastic cells, or rather the stairs leading to them. And everything is made there from boards with a thickness of 50 to 70 millimeters. Racks-balusters on such stairs are installed, as a rule, at each step.

That is, if compared with your intention to install metal profile pipes every 0.5 meters, then their distance is slightly less. But since you intend to install a protective fence in the form of polycarbonate sheets between the racks, this is quite acceptable.

The thickness of cellular polycarbonate is better to take 10 millimeters, this is more reliable. They don’t argue about tastes, but I choose yellow from all the colors of polycarbonate, it even makes a joyful impression on a person even in cloudy weather and indoors, and there is a sheet of it (6 / 2.1 meters in size) only a couple of hundred rubles more than transparent.

For more economical use of the cut and reduction of material waste, the cell structure of polycarbonate sheets can be placed not strictly vertically with respect to the floor surface, but perpendicular to the plane of the stair string (unless, of course, you have stringers).

It is best to fasten polycarbonate sheets to metal racks from a profile pipe using self-tapping screws with a press washer. The self-tapping screw is taken with metal thread, not wood. Such a self-tapping screw has a point at its end - a kind of drill and can be wrapped in metal without first drilling a hole in this metal. However, first try to practice on the workpiece, which can then be thrown away. Otherwise, you run the risk, not commensurate with your efforts, to spoil the polycarbonate sheets and break them at the place of fasteners.

If it doesn’t work out, then first drill holes in the places where polycarbonate sheets are attached to metal racks with a drill with a diameter a couple of hundredths of a millimeter smaller than the outer diameter of the self-tapping screw. And only then wrap the self-tapping screw. All this is done with an electric drill or a screwdriver and a bat or a head for a self-tapping screw.

So that the upper edge of the polycarbonate sheets does not spoil the hands when climbing and descending your homemade stairs, it is covered with a handrail (railing) from above so that the edges do not stick out. Better yet, cover this cut from below and above at the junction with the bowstrings with a wooden fillet. With fastening of fillets with self-tapping screws with a sunken head, so as not to tear the palms of the hands.

(By the way, about the railing. In your version with metal racks, of course, they can also be made from a metal profile pipe and welded with electrodes to the racks. Or from wood, purchased, but then the metal racks cut at an angle of the railing are fastened with self-tapping screws on wood with pre-drilling the racks at a right angle under these screws.

Polycarbonate sheets are best fixed from the side of flights of stairs. With a height of pipe-racks of about 0.9 meters, fastening is carried out with two to three self-tapping screws.

A mandatory attribute of any flight of stairs are fences and railings. They appeared in antiquity, and today they are used literally everywhere. However, proper selection of railings requires certain skills and knowledge, since they must also differ for different buildings.

Peculiarities

The question of how the staircase will look like and what it will be built from should be decided at the design stage. It is extremely important to choose optimum material, design and shape of the future construction, which should be safe, functional and stylish.

To date, there are several main types of ladder structures:

marching flights;
straight stairs;
curved designs;
turning stairs;
screw devices;
curvilinear;
combined.

When designing stairs, there are several basic requirements:

Every 9-10 steps, it is desirable to equip small areas where you can relax and catch your breath.
The minimum width of the steps should be 80 cm - it is optimal if 2 people diverge freely on one step.
Comfortable for lifting the height of the steps is considered to be 15-20 cm, and it is better to build a depth within 25-30 cm.
Landings must necessarily be wider than the flight of stairs.

The entire structure as a whole should be tilted by a maximum of 45 degrees, and it is better if this parameter is in the range of 25-30 degrees, otherwise the movement will be unsafe.
Steps and other elements of the stairs must be combustible, for this the materials used must be treated with special flame retardants.
The angle of elevation is steeper than less area allotted for the construction of stairs. If the space is very small, then the staircase will be spiral with a large number of turns and bends - this option is often resorted to for arranging a country house.

Handrails are an essential element of any staircase. They perform very important functions - they make the descent / ascent comfortable and safe and are stylish element design, which favorably emphasizes the general design solution interior and exterior.

Many people think that such barriers are required only for the elderly, sick people and families with children, since it is these categories of users who have the greatest stability problems. And this is a fundamentally wrong approach - even an adult needs a sense of security, which is why the railing must be mounted on all types of stairs without exception, so that any person, even an adult and absolutely healthy, can grab onto them in case of an unforeseen situation.

In addition to providing convenience, railings perform an aesthetic function. They can be dark or light, with or without carvings, angular, rounded, wood, glass or forged. Railings can be mounted on the steps, or they can be built into the walls - such a variety allows you to realize any design ideas and emphasize the conceptual style.

From a technical point of view, railings are vertical structures that are attached along the edge of the flight of stairs. They include several basic elements:

The base of the fence, its supports- This is the so-called baluster. It connects the steps to the handrail and ensures safe movement throughout the structure.
Fence filler- these are materials that are attached between the balusters. They can perform a decorative function, but where children constantly descend and rise, such barriers are required.
handrails- serve as a support device for a person. As a rule, they are attached to the wall or to the baluster.

In addition, all types of placeholders have their own classification. So, according to the embodiment, they can be:

classic- that is, those that consist of vertically arranged or inclined bars, most often they are called curly;
solid- very often, to ensure greater safety and prevent falls, solid panels are mounted that are attached to balusters;
crossbar is a design in which vertical slats overlap with each other horizontally;
patterned- this is an artistic filling that can look like anything in accordance with the individual design of the user.

Fencing and opening elements can be combined to create stylish and effective combinations. In rare cases, balusters are replaced with a bowstring - these are horizontal railings that are mounted under the handrails parallel to the movement of a person. Some railings have a cap, which is also called a pedestal - this is a part that is installed at the beginning and end of a flight of stairs instead of balusters. It's pure decorative design, which has no practical functionality.

Today, the market offers a variety of ready-made prefabricated models. However, if desired, everyone can do it themselves or order professionals to have their own "exclusive" staircase.

Norms and standards

Stair railings are used for maximum safety when moving, they act as a guardrail and reduce the risk of injury. Designers sometimes install models without railings, which, of course, look very interesting, but using such a design is a little uncomfortable. There are certain standards that regulate the dimensions of the railing. Their height should be determined individually based on the growth of the inhabitants of the house.

To make the structure as comfortable as possible, you can conduct an empirical experiment - going down the stairs, you need to stretch your hand forward and measure the distance from it to the foot - this size will be optimal height railing for you.

Traditionally, the minimum height of the handrail is 90 cm, and the largest is 110 cm. If there are children in the family, then it makes sense to make 2 types of handrails located on different height. Their standards apply to children's institutions: for schools and other places where children are, it is recommended to mount double fences at a height of 90 and 50 cm.

As for the width, they are usually produced in sizes from 3 to 7 cm - they must be such that they can be freely grabbed and held on to. The distance between the balusters is determined by the artistic intent of the owners of the building, however, experts do not recommend taking a step of more than 0.5 m in length.

The designers give several simple recommendations for arrangement structural elements railing:

The number of balusters should be dictated by the dimensions of the handrail. If flexible or heavy materials are used, the number of supports must be such that there is no sagging of the profile or excessive overloading of the supports.
In the classic version, balusters are mounted on each step, and sometimes even several supports per step. If there are small children in the house, as well as in children's institutions, the distance between them should not exceed 15 cm - this will protect the kids from the risk of falling out.

If the width of the flight of stairs exceeds one meter, then it is recommended to install a railing on both sides.
Wooden railings are equipped only in residential premises.
In office buildings, it is recommended to install a bowstring instead of balusters.
When arranging a shopping complex, at least three railing crossbars should be used.

fences

As already mentioned, there are a lot of railing options for arranging stairs. Great variety is achieved through the use different materials, colors and mounting options. Therefore, it is worth dwelling separately on the existing types of stair railings.

We note right away that all the indicated options largely depend on the location of the flight of stairs. There are the following types of railings:

Interior- that is, those that are located indoors. As a rule, they are decorated in light shades, and the base material is glass or wood.
exterior- these are stairs that are located outside the living quarters, for example, on the porch. In this case, dark color solutions, and metal and a loaf are used as the material.

The shape of the railing depends on the location of the span, in addition, big influence the material of manufacture exerts on it. So, wood is more often used to implement the ideas of classical design - balusters in the form of straight columns are quite massive, the handrail has rounded edges. Metal railings have a miniature handrail, but the balusters are richly decorated decorative elements, but glass products are distinguished by a strict laconic design.

Wood

Despite the abundance of materials on the market, the popularity of wooden railings does not subside, and this is easily explained - consumers always strive for maximum naturalness and environmental friendliness of their homes. They have a stylish appearance and attractive texture, are characterized by resistance to mechanical damage, easily tolerate all types of negative external influences. This largely explains the fact that wooden railings are widely used for arranging facade elements.

In addition, the stores are widely represented various breeds wood in different price segments, so everyone can buy raw materials based on their financial opportunities. Usually inside the house use more expensive breeds wood, and outside they prefer budget options.

Metal

Railings made of stainless steel or aluminum are widespread, nickel-plated and brass are slightly less popular. The peak of their popularity was at the beginning of our century, when they were installed everywhere in large shopping and office complexes and business centers. Interest in such railings has not faded even today, this is due to the exceptionally high performance characteristics of such structures:

Long term use. Metal railings can last at least 50 years.
Aesthetics– giving the design a stylish and modern look.
Ease of maintenance – hardware do not need regular tinting and varnishing, they do not need to be processed protective compounds and flame retardants. All that is needed to care for them is only to wash periodically with plain water.
Corrosion resistance. Stainless steel, like aluminum, is resistant to rust, thanks to this property they can be mounted both inside the building and outside. If we talk about stainless steel railings, then another advantage will be affordable price, which is much lower than analogues made of glass or forging.

As for the minuses, he is alone - later long time use, the resistance of the material to mechanical damage is reduced and numerous scratches and chips appear on the surface of the railing, and the points of their fastening often become loose. However, this does not apply to aluminum railings - they retain strength and strength for many years.

More expensive but quality option are forged railings. When choosing such a material, the leading factor is the exceptional grace of such products and beauty.

Forged stair railings are manufactured using several technologies:

cold forging allows you to create products of the simplest form by twisting rods. This is generally preferred for porch railings and other types of outdoor stairs.
hot forging takes longer, but the products at the same time turn out to be the most intricate and ornate. Using the hot method, you can create the most complex structures, which are often installed in large comfortable cottages or hotels.

The advantages of forged railings are not in doubt, among them:

resistance to external adverse influences– forged railings perfectly tolerate temperature fluctuations, rain, hail and snow, and also show resistance to mechanical damage;
long service life- fences can serve faithfully up to 100 years;
exceptional design- manufacturing technology forged products allows you to equip the railing according to any individual sketches, such a product is always exclusive.

The disadvantage of forged railings is only one - they are very expensive.

Glass

Stylish and modern solution for those who prefer minimalism in the interior. Despite the external fragility, these beautiful railings have a large number of advantages:

simplicity and high speed of installation- railings and handrails can be installed in a couple of days, and the installation process itself is not difficult and high-tech;
a large selection of different design options- soundproof, explosion-resistant and frost-resistant models, as well as fireproof and bulletproof modifications are widely represented on the market;
durability– glass railings can be used for 50 years;
simple dismantling- in the event of deformation, any section can be replaced without the need to change the entire fence as a whole.

Such railings are not without drawbacks. These include the complexity of maintenance and the high cost of such products.

Plastic

Polymer composite railings are made of very hard plastics and WPC, fixed on a special mount. The advantage of polymers is their price. The cost of plastic railings is an order of magnitude lower than all other options for arranging stairs. However, the advantages of plastic do not end there. This material is easy to care for, it is easy to clean and wipe, does not require regular treatment with varnishes, paints and flame retardants.

The material is resistant to damage of low strength, however, any swipe may damage them. However, this statement applies to most materials.

Concrete

Concrete railings, like the stone version, are used quite rarely, since such structures are quite heavy, and if we talk about stone, they are still very expensive. At the same time, their strength and strength are exceptionally high, which is why their main scope is the arrangement of flights of stairs and a porch.

They are not afraid of any adverse atmospheric effects, but they look more than presentable, emphasize the style of the exterior, as well as the status of the owner of the building.

Stone balusters are also very popular. Depending on the features of their manufacture, there are:

carved balusters- usually made by hand, therefore, as a rule, they are distinguished by the sophistication of shapes and a variety of patterns;
point - the most common type, characterized by roundness of shapes and a varied distribution of thickenings, it is easy to recognize them - the horizontal section of the point supports has the shape of a circle;
hewn- such columns have pronounced even edges, their shape is rather angular, and the horizontal section resembles a polygon.

As for materials, marble, Dagestan or fake diamond as well as granite. The latter gives the most durable supports, since this stone is one of the most hard rock. Stone railings look very attractive, they emphasize luxury and nobility. interior design premises, but create an additional burden on flights of stairs. This must be taken into account when designing stairs.

Stone supports go well with stairs made of boards or metal steps. Such combinations favorably refresh the design and give the room a more residential and comfortable look.

Upper support elements

Any railing must necessarily be equipped with "tops" - handrails, otherwise their use will be unsafe. There are a variety of options for the execution of the upper supporting elements of the railing.

In form and material

If we talk about the form, then the handrails can be presented in the most various options: round, rectangular, square, oval, angled or rounded. Depending on the purpose of the stairs, you can choose the most advantageous material for its production. So, for a porch, forged or chrome-plated profiles, as well as stainless steel options, are most preferable.

PVC handrails are similar in their performance characteristics to metal ones, but outwardly they look more like wooden elements. Their main advantage is high plasticity, which allows you to give the handrails any shape when exposed to warm air(for example, when heated building hair dryer). Another advantage is low cost.

For many years, handrails made of wood have remained at the peak of popularity. This unflagging interest is largely due to the special atmosphere of comfort that wooden elements bring to any home. Sometimes the quality of their workmanship is so exceptional that the handrails can even be called a work of art.

At the point of attachment

Depending on the type of fastening, there are two main types of handrails:

over the string;
handrails with load-bearing function.

As a rule, handrails are mounted to balusters using anchors and self-tapping screws, as well as by welding - this depends on the material used. The handrails are fastened to the wall along the line of the stairs using special cast brackets that can wrap around the bar anywhere or from the end.

Non-standard solutions

For creating individual design and maintaining an atmosphere of coziness and comfort in country houses often install non-traditional handrails from improvised means. Slightly rough handrails made of raw logs look very aesthetically pleasing and stylish. Such an element can place the necessary accents in the room and emphasize the thoughtfulness of its interior.

Handrails made of branches in combination with polycarbonate look rather non-trivial - this allows you to implement the principles of minimalism in the design of the premises. But to the admirers maritime theme you can recommend options from a rope or a thickened rope that will look harmonious both in the house and in the country.

Everyone prefers original handrails more homeowners. Among the most popular options:

handrails made of light wood in the form of a continuous line;
straight oak timber, which is fastened with metal clamps;
a combination of glass and chrome sheets with a wooden edging;
uniform alternation of vertical and horizontal lines - as a rule, this option is used for wooden or metal structures;
steel pipes fixed parallel to each other with curved bending sections.

On the background dark walls railings with lighting look quite unusual, while the power is supplied directly to the handrails.

The most common designs:

stainless steel railings and illuminated handrails. It is built into the handrail in the form of an LED strip, it “breaks through” at the corners, and a brass plug is fixed at the end.
Protections from glass with an euroedge. Here the LED strip is located inside the main profile. In the basic versions, the LED has a power of no more than 4.8 W / m and has a diffuse white or color shade.
Tubular lighting options. In this case, special remote holders are used, on which the LED Strip Light. Power consumption also corresponds to 4.8 W/m, and a rivet is attached to the end.
Wall handrails- at the same time, both the handrail itself and the fittings are attached using mirror grooved stainless steel pipes.

Installation

If the railings are installed by hand, then wooden structures are most often used. This is due to the fact that wood is quite easy to process, and the tools that are needed for this are in the arsenal of any home craftsman.

The first step is to draw up a drawing of the future staircase, and only then proceed with its installation. Consider the scheme of work:

To begin with, end pedestals are mounted - they are installed at the top and bottom of the stairs. If she has two or more marches,
then the pedestals are fixed at each turn.
A fishing line is stretched between the pedestals - it indicates where the railing will be located and what the basic position of the handrails will be.

In places where the supports will be located, markup is applied. As already mentioned, the distance between the supports can be very different, but, as a rule, it is 15-20 cm, and if children constantly live or often visit the house, then it should be even less. Please note that balusters are installed 5-10 cm from the edge of the step.
To achieve greater reliability of fixation, they are attached directly to the stairs and bowstrings: to the first horizontally, and to the second - at right angles. To increase the strength characteristics of the fastening, it is recommended to additionally use a mounting adhesive.

At the finishing stage, handrails are installed on the balusters. To make the process go faster, the grooves should first be cleaned of dirt and remove all dust, this will achieve complete smoothness.
They complete the work with varnishing, with which you can achieve not only increased aesthetics of the structure, but also additional protection wood. This stage should be given special attention.

Among the majority of owners of private houses there is an opinion that wooden surfaces of all types are always processed in the same way. This approach is erroneous, since the reaction of wood of different species to the same paintwork can vary greatly. For example, it is desirable to varnish light varieties, such as pine, with light coatings, and if it is impregnated with a dark stain, the result can be the most unpredictable, and most often the composition is absorbed into the structure of the tree unevenly and completely destroys its natural texture.

This is due to the presence of a large amount of resin in pine, it accumulates in the material inhomogeneously, and therefore the areas with the highest resin content absorb stain better, giving the material a rich dark color. At the same time, areas with a small concentration of resins remain light, creating a rather unaesthetic visual effect.

To impregnate wood, you should use such varnishes and paints that favorably shade the structure of the tree, emphasize its interesting pattern, but in no case hide it.

Railings are elements of the protective structure on the stairs. Handrails provide safety of movement at descent or rise on a ladder. Railings are distinguished by the variability of shapes and materials. Some designs are simple in appearance, safe and convenient. Some can be real designer decoration, especially if the staircase is located indoors.

You can make a railing for the stairs from various materials: metal, wood, concrete, plastic. With your own hands, it is easiest to make barrage structures made of metal and wood. In the article you can find detailed information about how to choose the right material, process it and make beautiful and reliable stair railings.

The height of the protective structure must be at least 90 cm.

Handrails should be smooth and not too wide.

On narrow stairs, one side adjacent to the wall, one span of the fence is installed. If the flight of stairs is wide, it is recommended to install two protective structures.

If a steep or high staircase is installed in a house where there are small children, it is preferable to mount an additional low railing that the child can comfortably hold on to.

The distance between the balusters should be such that the child could not climb through the opening. Optimal -15-20 cm.

Handrails. This is the top bar located above the railing structure. It is for the handrails that people hold on when they go down. Handrails should be smooth, monolithic, so that it is comfortable to hold on to them.

Balusters. These are racks that are attached to steps or a bowstring (bearing element at an angle, located on the edge of the stairs). Balusters are attached to the structure through a certain length.

Cabinet. This is the end powerful rack, located at the end of the stairs. Handrails are attached to the cabinet.

Material selection

Aluminum. It is quite difficult to make a structure from this metal with your own hands. Most often, various fasteners and fencing elements are sold in ready-made. Assembling the railing with your own hands from a set of parts is quite simple, the main thing is to choose a design and calculate the number of required parts. The material itself does not have high performance and properties, bends upon impact, scratches, fades, becomes covered with corrosion spots.

Chrome railings are also sold ready-made, the main thing is to correctly calculate and purchase everything necessary elements. The disadvantage of chrome parts is the rapid abrasion of the coating, especially if the stairs are located in crowded places.

Forged fences. Hot forging is mainly factory work, to make fencing elements from hot forging at home is very difficult. Cold forging is a more doable job, with special tools you can make a railing with your own hands. Pluses - the multivariability of the design of the fence, cons - the rather high cost of the material, a special tool, the complexity of the technical process.

Stainless steel. The metal has a luster that does not tarnish. Railings for stainless steel stairs are strong, reliable, but for their construction by one's own hands, the skills of a welder and a metal carver are required.

Video - Installation of stainless steel fencing

Toolkit and material

Welding machine, pack of electrodes, access to electricity, protective suit and mask.

Angle grinder with wheels for cutting and polishing metal.

Place for welding.

Metal profile and rolled metal products. It is desirable that the profile has a small cross section, so it is easier to cut it.

Work order

First of all, the height of the railing and the distance between the balusters are determined. On the uppermost step, as well as on the lower one, pedestals are installed - elements that fix the entire structure of the fence. Pedestals should be thicker in diameter than balusters.

The height of the fence is calculated. The standard is 95 cm. But the railing frame should be raised 10 cm above the steps. It is also worth considering 5 cm per handrail. In total, 15 cm is subtracted from 95 cm and it turns out 80 cm. It is for this size that the metal profile is cut into pedestals and balusters.

If the frame length is 3 meters, then the transverse upper and lower profile, on which the balusters are attached between the pedestals, should also be cut into 3 meter elements.

Frame welding. A frame is laid out from the cut profile and slightly tacked by welding. You do not need to immediately tightly weld the elements; in case of marriage or skew, you will have to do extra work. The welded frame is reinforced: after 10 cm, balusters are welded. It is worth considering that the extreme pedestals should be at least twice as thick as the internal metal vertical lintels.

If the design fully complies with the standard and does not have distortions, you can proceed to finish welding of all elements. It is recommended to weld the seams on both sides so that the fence is as strong as possible.

After the frame is ready, columns with round or square plates with a height of 10 cm must be welded to the lower profile. Holes are drilled in the plates for fastening to the steps.

Refinement of the appearance of the structure

For this purpose, you need an angle grinder with a cleaning wheel. It is necessary to carefully polish all the remnants of welding: drops, growths.

Experts recommend giving homemade product handsome and unusual view using purchased forged elements. Specialty stores offer a variety of forged accessories that can be welded to the frame lathing: a climbing vine with leaves, flowers, an ornament.

You also need to consider the type of handrails. Most often they are made from wood. Wooden blanks are rounded on three sides and carefully polished.

The first layer is a primer that will protect against corrosion. Then you need paint on metal. The color depends on individual preference, but black is most commonly used. Designers recommend giving chic to a homemade fence. For this purpose, patina is used - a material that gives the metal an old and noble look. Do-it-yourself metal railings are ready.

The choice of wood for construction

Pine. This material is quite affordable and is very often used in construction. Pine is soft, its wood has an uneven structure, due to which, when painting, the covering material is absorbed with different intensity. Works well, withstands changes in temperature and humidity.

Birch. Dense and durable material, practically without knots. Well processed, polished. But, wood has a number of disadvantages: it is prone to decay, it cracks when temperature and humidity change.

Beech. By physical characteristics this wood is in no way inferior to oak. But, overdrying the beech is not recommended. A layer of wood at low humidity breaks along the fibers, which leads to damage to the elements.

As in metal wooden structures distinguish between handrails, balusters and cabinets. But, in wood products, balusters are not only a supporting element, but also a decoration of the structure. Most often they are made of glued laminated timber and are machined in the form of columns of various shapes.

Milling of balusters consists in cutting helical patterns on the surface of the elements.

When turning on the elements, you can see several combined geometric shapes: balls, squares, rectangles, etc.

Video - Do-it-yourself railing for stairs. Installation of curly balusters and handrail installation

Hand-cut balusters are a true work of art. Patterns, ornaments and much more are carved on the surface of the parts. Some wood carvers make these elements in the form of animal figures.

Flat balusters are boards on which patterns are cut. This is the easiest way to decorate stairs with your own hands.

As described above, the standard and safe height of the structure must be at least 95 cm. The width of the handrail is 5 cm, the distance between the steps and the fence is 10 cm. As a result, the height of the balusters is 80 cm. 15 cm, 30-35 mm thick.

To create carved and beautiful fence, planks need to be shaped. Professionals who have mastered lathe, can cut out the thread on the ends of the board with the help of equipment. If the machine is not available, then a hand-held power tool, for example, a jigsaw, is used.

To do this, on paper or cardboard, you need to draw a template that has real dimensions. Then, using a pencil, circle the template on each board and cut out the shape according to the marks. After all the balusters have been purchased desired shape, it is required to carefully process the ends, clean them with fine-grained sandpaper and polish to a shine.

Flat balusters, unlike wooden curly posts, are not recommended to be attached to the steps. The fence will be unreliable and shaky. Elements must be mounted on a transverse beam, which is located 10 cm above the bowstring. It turns out that the handrail lower bar and the top and bottom pedestals form a frame into which flat balusters are to be inserted.

You need to fasten the crossbars after 15 cm, but no more. Two types of connection can be used - in grooves and on metal studs. If the balusters will be inserted into the grooves, then on the lower part of the handrail and on the upper end of the transverse beam, grooves must be machined, 2 cm deep. The length of the recess should be equal to the width of the baluster.

Do not forget about the slope of the stairs. It is worth knowing that the lower ends of the balusters should be even, but the upper ones should be cut at the angle of the stairs. It is on the cut ends that the handrail will be attached.

Balusters are attached to metal studs if it is not possible to mount a transverse beam. In this case, there will be no gap of 10 cm between the cross beam and the steps. The height of the balusters in this case should be 90 cm. The baluster is attached to the step with one pin; in the process of work, it is important to attach the element evenly, without distortions. For these purposes, you can use the angle.

After all the protective elements are attached to the steps, you can mount the handrail. For it, a bar is used, which is rounded on three sides and carefully polished.

The last stage of creation wooden railing for stairs - finishing. For this you can use acrylic paints, varnish, stain.

A beautiful staircase with your own hands is ready.