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Vertical gardening important for any garden, especially a small one. When there is not enough space, but you want to plant a lot beautiful plants, this is where the vines help out, they need a little space on the ground.With the help of vines, you can divide garden plot into zones, mark the boundaries of "green rooms", some of them may mask a not very interesting building or a boring look. Creepers will decorate the house and garden, create shady, cozy corners, will make the site more original and convenient.
Lianas are a group of plants that master the height of the site. To choose the right support for them, it is important to know how to attach to the support. On this basis, they can be divided into based ( climbing rose), which do not know how to attach themselves to the support, they must be tied up; root-climbing - those that are attached to the support with the help of roots; curly - those that wrap around the support either clockwise or counterclockwise; cirriform - creepers that are attached to the support with the help of antennae (maiden and other grapes) and leaf climbers (clematis and princes), wrapping around the support with leaf petioles.
Lianas can be shrubs, perennials and annuals. All of the shrub vines listed below are hardy and feel great in middle lane Russia, for those vines that need shelter for the winter, this is indicated specifically. In our climate zone there are no evergreen vines, in addition, some vines (roses and clematis) for the winter need to be removed from the supports and covered, so the type of supports should be taken carefully. We will take care of a worthy appearance of the garden in spring, autumn and winter. A carelessly executed support can compromise the most beautiful vine even in summer.
Assortment of ornamental shrub vines for Central Russia
Leaning creepers
They do not have special devices for attaching to a support, we have to tie them up.
climbing roses
We list a few unpretentious and spectacular climbing roses. Rose ‘Excelsa’ blooms once, but very abundantly. Large-flowered ‘Flammentanz’ with double red flowers blooms unusually profusely. ‘Dortmund’ blooms in clusters of non-double carmine-red flowers with a white centre. ‘New Dawn’ has long been known - a vigorous shade-tolerant climbing rose with terry white and pink flowers. Good velvet red ‘Sympathie’. For the luxurious flowering of roses, you need to work hard, they need fertile soil, top dressing, correct pruning and shelter for the winter.
Root climbing vines
climbing vines
The stem of these vines wraps around the support. These are shrub vines: actinidia, wood pliers, kirkazon, honeysuckle, moonseed, lemongrass, perennial herbaceous vines: hops, climbing aconite, rank, dioscorea and annuals: Turkish beans, morning glory, quamoclite.
Actinidia kolomikta (Actinidia kolomikta) is a very resistant frost-resistant vine. She has amazing leaves: bronze when blooming, then green, during flowering, the tips of the leaves begin to turn white, after flowering the leaves turn pink, then raspberry. Plants are dioecious, meaning either male or female. The color of the leaves especially effectively change male specimens. The flowers are white, fragrant, the fruits are very tasty, green, up to 2.5 cm long. There are delicious fruit varieties. Actinidia kolomikta requires rich, well-drained, neutral soil. When choosing a support, do not forget that its lashes reach 10–15 m in length. You can plant it near the house, even on the north side, it will gradually grow to the roof two-story house, but in the shade it will hardly bear fruit.
Round-leaved tree pliers (Celastrus orbiculata) - climbs high on the trunks and crowns of trees. Powerful, fast growing liana up to 10–12 m long. The leaves are dense, leathery, up to 10 cm long, turning bright yellow in autumn. Unpretentious, grows well in the sun and in partial shade. The liana is decorated with decorative yellow-orange fruits. Can give " new life» dried old tree, decorate the fence or the entrance to the house.
Lianoid honeysuckle
Brown's honeysuckle (L. x brownii) - blooms annually in June-July and again in August-September with long tubular bright orange-scarlet odorless flowers. The length of the shoots is 2.5–3 m. In winter, the tips of the shoots freeze slightly, but quickly recover.
Curly honeysuckle (L. periclimenum) - shrub liana up to 5 m long. In the Moscow region, it blooms annually with yellowish-white inside and purple outside fragrant flowers from late June to September for almost three months. There is a wonderful variety ‘Serotina’.
Honeysuckle honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) is a shrub liana 5–6 m high. It has pretty paired rounded leaves, green above, bluish below, in the axils of which asymmetric graceful pinkish-yellow flowers appear from late May to mid-June with an unusually pleasant aroma. Berries orange-red, inedible. This is the most common Russian liana, and although it blooms for only 3 weeks, it is definitely worth growing for the wonderful smell. In winter, annual shoots freeze slightly, but quickly recover.
Kirkazon (aristolochia) Manchurian (Aristolochia mandschuriensis) is a powerful, stable, fast-growing shrub liana up to 10 m long. The first years it grows slowly. The main decoration of this creeper is large (up to 30 cm long) light green heart-shaped leaves. Tubular, bronze-brown flowers are rather original than beautiful, and they are located under the leaves. Likes moist soil in partial shade. Heavy liana - the support for it must be stable.
Schisandra chinensis (Schisandra chinensis) is a shade-tolerant shrub liana 10–15 m long, undemanding to the soil. It covers the support very delicately, it will never give a powerful cover. The leaves are green elliptical, the flowers are white fragrant, the berries are orange, edible. Stems, leaves and fruits have a lemon smell and a powerful stimulating effect.
Cirrus creepers
Whiskers are attached to the support with antennae.
Amur grapes (Vitis amurensis) - a powerful winter-hardy shrub liana 20 m or more in length. In the early years it grows slowly. Warm is needed sunny place and shelter in the early years. Beautiful large wrinkled leaves in autumn acquire a beautiful purple color, by September beautiful blue-black berries ripen in racemes up to 25 cm long. Unfortunately, they have a thick skin and large bones.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is a large, up to 15–20 m long, versatile shrub liana with large palmately dissected leaves, which acquire a raspberry-purple color in autumn. The berries are small bluish-black, inedible. Annual growth up to 3 m. One plant can cover up to 20 m2 vertical surface. It grows well in the shade and in the sun, puts up with any soil, attaches to any surface.
Leaf climbers
How can you not remember about clematis? Clematis is not an easy plant, but if you plant it according to all the rules and provide proper care, success is guaranteed. The support for this exquisite plant must be chosen carefully, do not forget about its method of attachment to the support and that it should be removed and covered for the winter. If you do not consider yourself a passionate collector of clematis, I advise you to choose for the garden those varieties that, firstly, bloom on the shoots of the current year, and secondly, abundantly and for a long time, albeit not very large flowers. These are varieties such as 'Gypsy Queen', 'Niobe', 'Ville de Lyon', 'Space Melody'. There are also frost-resistant clematis wintering on a support, for example, Tangut clematis and vine-leaved clematis.
Tangut clematis (Clematis tangutica) is a woody vine 3–4 m in height. The leaves are pinnately dissected, the flowers are golden yellow, blooms from July to September. Decorative fluffy seed pods up to 6 cm in diameter. Grows well in full sun and partial shade.
Clematis vine (Clematis vitalba) - shrub liana up to 10 m long. In the Moscow region, it blooms from the second half of July until the end of September with large clusters of white small flowers about 2 cm in diameter. The leaves do not change color and do not fall off until frost. The liana is decorated with fluffy silvery fruits. AT harsh winter It can freeze a lot, but quickly recovers.
I can't say enough about the princes. In the Middle lane, the alpine, large-petal, Siberian princes and their varieties feel great. These are frost-resistant shrub vines, they do not need to be removed for the winter and covered, they hibernate without problems on any support. Do not forget that these lianas are delicate, elegant, transparent, they will not close an unsightly building, but only emphasize its unsightliness. All princes prefer loose nutritious moist soils and grow well in the sun and in partial shade. All varieties have decorative fluffy fruits.
How and what shelter young trees and shrubs for winter, we will talk in this article. As soon as the soil freezes shelter trunk circles of young trees peat or spruce branches. Or lay out rubber bands-semi-rings cut from waste car chambers. Such a shelter reliably protects the roots of plants, since the ground under it does not freeze deeply.
Can cover trunk circles plastic wrap on which to put a layer of grass and earth. In the spring, at the end of April, you can easily shake off this layer from the film, at the same time fertilize the soil. If your garden contains sissy plants, such as gum, some varieties of raspberry, raspberry - blackberry hybrids, apricots, other exotics, then they require just such a good shelter for the winter.
On the periphery of the crown, drive in 3-4 stakes with a height equal to approximately the height of the bush. Using twine, a soft wire, pull the branches up to the volume limited by the stakes. Before the onset of frost, wrap roofing felt, film, thick paper around the stakes. Sprinkle the stakes with earth 3-5 centimeters so that the mice do not penetrate. Tie everything with twine. Cover the resulting cylinder with snow. Leaves can be used instead of snow.
And you can do that too. Cover a tree or shrub with any frame and cover with a film. Put sawdust, humus, snow 30-50 centimeters thick on top. It is important that between the tree and the frame there is air layer, which will keep the plants from decay.
Solid gardeners and shelters make capital ones. Sidewalls - wooden frames covered on both sides with roofing material and with sawdust inside. The roof is covered metal mesh and ruberoid. The bottom is covered with snow briquettes. In such a "house" fruit plants are very comfortable.
Cover raspberries and raspberry-blackberry hybrids as follows. Before the onset of cold weather and snowfalls, tie the stems into bundles and bend them to the ground. Mulch the trunk circle with peat (humus, sawdust) with a layer of 10 centimeters. Press the branches with boards or bricks. Put a spruce on them.
Not sure about the winter hardiness of some strawberry varieties? Cover the plantings, for example, with dry hay with a layer of 10-15 centimeters, throw branches, stakes, boards on it so that the snow does not blow away. But make sure that the strawberries do not prop up.
Most vulnerable spot in stone fruit (apricot, felt cherry, plum) - root neck. From constant changes in temperature, it warms up, and the tree suffers greatly from this. Plants need help in this difficult time for them: shovel snow in the fall to freeze the ground.
If it is not possible to shovel snow, use the following technique. Wrap the trunk with sacking or build a wide, 20 cm in diameter, cylinder made of tin, cardboard, roofing material around the trunk, which is wrapped around the sides and top with a film for winter.
In the first years of life, all grape bushes, regardless of their winter hardiness, will have to be covered for the winter. Do not remove leaves from young plants. Under cover, they will fully or partially give nutrients to the vine, increasing its winter hardiness. Roll the vine into a ring or lay it along a row on both sides and pin it with hooks. It is not bad to lay strips of roofing paper or film between the vine and the ground. Above the pinned vine, install arcs of wire, lay roofing felt, roofing material and the like on them. Sprinkle the edges with earth. Leave a hole for ventilation, preferably on the south side.
You can cover fruit-bearing grape bushes in different ways. Most old way- place the above-ground part underground. But this is acceptable only in the southern regions.
A well-ripened vine, depending on the variety, can withstand a drop in air temperature to minus 10 degrees and below without harm to health, but the roots die at minus 5-6 degrees.
During leaf fall, prepare leaves. Pour them dry into a pile 40-50 centimeters high. Cover with plastic wrap. After pruning the grapes, pin the vine with wire hooks as close to the ground as possible without making any grooves or trenches. With the onset of significant frosts, completely cover the bush with leaves with a layer of 30-35 centimeters, then with plastic wrap, and cut out raspberry stalks, tomato tops and other material on top of it to make snow easier to accumulate.
Snow cover should be 40-50 centimeters high. It is believed that each centimeter of snow retains about 1 degree of heat in the soil. Having thrown two “fur coats” on the grapes - leaf and snow, you don’t have to worry about it, under such shelter the plant will not freeze even in harsh winter. The older the bush, the greater the radius of its shelter should be. For example, the radius of shelter of a five-year-old bush is 60-65 centimeters.
A fair question arises: is it not dangerous, because pathogens or pests can be brought along with the leaves?
There is such a danger, but it is easily eliminated: in the spring, when opening the grapes, rake every single leaf. Well winters grapes under an air cushion. To do this, bend the bush in the trench to the ground, cover the trench with boards, lay roofing on them, sprinkle the edges with earth.
If you are growing grapes in wall culture, make a box of three shields. The fourth side will be the wall. Attach thick foam to the inside of the shields. Cover the wall with it to the height of the box. Cover the ground with styrofoam too. This will keep warm and significantly reduce the impact of frost on the soil and grapes. Lay the vine on the ground and place the box. Make the ceiling of the box also from boards and cover with foam. In the ceiling it is necessary to do air vent, but it will have to be closed with the onset of frost minus 5-7 degrees. Insulate the box with old clothes, and on top with a film.
Another way for those who grow grapes on a trellis.
Pin the vine to the ground so that between them there are 10-15 centimeters. Press wire arches into the ground, put boards on the sides. Place mats of reeds, straw or other insulating material on the arches and boards. Pin with larger arcs. Close one end, and insulate the other when steady cold sets in.
Sheltering plants for the winter should be carried out on time and in moderation: too much zeal in such a matter can bring disastrous results. A slight frost is not so terrible for wintering plants, even very thermophilic ones, overheating is much more dangerous.
After all, plants often die not from cold, but from dampness caused by temperature fluctuations during a thaw. The moisture accumulated during a warm day from melting snow freezes at night and cannot evaporate from under a thick covering coat, which carries a real threat of decay of the root collar, and subsequently even the death of young plantings.
When to cover overwintering plants?
The threat of overheating and decay is exposed not only to plants covered for the winter with an excessively thick fur coat, but also to plants covered too early, when the weather is still warm from above zero for a long time. It is necessary to cover wintering plantings when the thermometer is steadily below 5-7 degrees below zero. and the ground will freeze by 4-5cm.
How to cover plants for the winter?
Of course, the best shelter is spruce branches. The material itself is warm and holds snow well. But if three thousand summer residents getting off the train at my stop go to the forest for spruce paws, then the forest will not live even two or three years. Therefore, we are looking for other equally wonderful covering materials, both natural and adapted for this purpose, which can replace spruce branches. For example, we rake fallen leaves (it must be dry), peat, humus.
Each type of plant has its own preferences in the choice of covering material. For example, mulching with pure peat, moist soil or sawdust is in no way suitable for roses, since these materials quickly absorb moisture and, with a sharp drop in temperature, form an ice crust dangerous for plants in the near-stem circle. The roots stop breathing, and the moisture accumulated under the crust causes the root neck to rot.
roses cut to the woody part of the stem: all the same, the unripe shoots will die, they will only spread the infection. Spud, and then sprinkle the bushes with clean, dry sand to a height of 20-25cm. Cut off the remaining leaves on the branches with scissors.
climbing roses must be removed from the support and laid on a spruce branch or on wooden shields. It is important for them that rain and sleet do not fall on the stems during wintering.
Clematis if necessary, it can be cut off, or it can be laid in rings around the trunk. They winter well if, after water-charging irrigation (it is carried out before the soil freezes!) They are sprinkled with dry earth or sawdust.
hyacinths, irises, primrose, violam a blanket made of sawdust or dry leaves 10-15 cm thick is suitable.
Not only clematis sissies and capricious roses need the pre-winter care of an amateur gardener. Other heat-loving ornamental plants also require attention: hydrangeas, heathers, and conifers, as well as young, more winter-hardy plants that have not yet entered into force.
Pristvolny circle and root neck rhododendrons, especially young ones, you need to cover well with a 15-centimeter layer of fallen leaves.
Buddley requires winter pruning. Cut branches can be dug into the soddy soil in the basement, and planted in the ground in the spring - you will have a lot of buddles.
Mulching near-stem circles will help to endure winter easier hydrangeas and young coniferous.
A blanket of 10 cm layer of dry leaves or sawdust will be to your liking hyacinths, lilies, irises and other primroses. With this in mind, do not forget to remove the shelter in time in the spring.
Decorative creepers, which for some reason you cannot remove from the support for the winter, can be insulated directly on it: pull the branches with a soft cord closer to each other and to the support, then wrap the plants well with several layers of spunbond, lutrasil or other breathable covering material, from above wrap in foil. The insulation should be well secured with a cord.
Such sheltering can also be used to insulate young seedlings of heat-loving plants for the winter. fruit trees - apricot, peach, almond and other southerners whom you decided to accustom to our difficult climate of a more harmful strip. This will also protect them from February sunburn - for evergreens, the danger is not so much the winter cold as the winter sun.
Do not forget about such reliable insulation as snow. The task of the gardener and gardener is to accept effective measures to snow retention: the more snow lingers around the plant, the better.
The branches remaining from pruning the garden, carved raspberry stalks and berry bushes.
Stems of corn, Jerusalem artichoke and sunflower, coarsened stems of flowers, dried dill will also be appropriate for garden, berry and flower plantings.
Sheltering plants for the winter, carried out correctly, is warming with a moderate layer of material suitable for a given plant, made on time and contributing to snow retention. Good dreams to your plants during hibernation!
In late autumn, when all other work on preparing fruit trees and shrubs for winter has already been completed in the garden (pruning, whitewashing, stripping the bark, treatment for diseases, spraying against pests, autumn feeding, garbage collection, caring for the near-stem circle,) it is time for shelter plants for the winter.
Why cover fruit trees and shrubs for the winter in autumn?
AT winter period fruit trees and berry bushes are threatened by many adverse factors: frost, sudden temperature changes, large snow load, strong winds, ice formation, rodents and hares. All these factors can cause various damage to the bark, branches and roots (frost cracks, peeling of the bark, freezing, decay, breakage of branches) and even lead to the death of plants. Sheltering fruit trees and shrubs for the winter allows you to protect the garden from the negative effects of the winter period.
The main tasks of the shelter garden plants for the winter :
1. Warming of trees and shrubs due to snow retention and the use of insulating materials
2. Bark protection from rodents and hares
3. Prevention mechanical damage branches by tying them or tightly covering them
What fruit trees and shrubs should be covered for the winter?
It should be noted that most adult fruit trees are quite winter-hardy and do not need regular shelter for the winter. But young trees, southern species (for example, grapes, apricots), non-hardy fruit varieties, many dwarf and columnar plants with a surface occurrence of the root system in the Moscow region must be covered annually for the winter.
How to cover fruit trees and shrubs for the winter?
For winter shelter of fruit trees and shrubs, many various materials, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages and is selected individually for each specific case.
Materials for sheltering plants for the winter :
- Lapnik perfectly holds snow and protects the bark from rodents, but is not available to all gardeners
- Peat perfectly protects the root system of plants from freezing, but strongly cakes and acidifies the soil
- Polyethylene film does not allow water to pass through, but at the same time interferes with normal breathing
- nonwoven fabric(agrotextile) and burlap allow air to pass through to the plant, but during thaws, unfortunately, they can get wet
- organic(leaves, straw, hay) serve good insulation, but are prone to rotting and are used by pests as shelter
- Frame dome structures made of wood, metal or plastic are a safe shelter for young fruit trees and berry bushes, however, they are too bulky and expensive
How to cover fruit trees and shrubs for the winter?
Before shelter, fallen leaves and fruits are raked out from under trees and shrubs. In berry bushes (currant, gooseberry) and very young fruit trees, the branches are tied into bundles to prevent them from breaking off under the weight of snow or during strong wind. Creepers (grapes, actinidia, lemongrass) are removed from supports and laid on the ground. Flexible shoots of non-hardy varieties of raspberries and blackberries also bend down to the ground.
To insulate the root system of plants, the trunk circle is covered with a thick layer of peat, foliage, straw or hay, on top of which a plastic film or agrotextile is laid. Sometimes the film is also laid under the insulation layer, so that the litter can be easily removed in the spring. In the process of warming the root system, it is very important not to cover the root collar of the tree, as this can lead to the death of the plant. Also, the compaction of snow in the near-trunk circle contributes to the warming of the roots.
Protect the trunk young tree from the cold, rodents and hares, spruce branches will help, which can be spread around the plant or tied around the trunk. A winding made of nylon stocking, burlap or non-woven material (agrotextile) will also serve as an excellent remedy for rodents. Note that in order to protect the bark of a tree from hares, it is advisable to wrap the trunk and branches to a height of up to 1-1.5 m, since in snowy winters hares are able to gnaw plants at a sufficiently high height.
To shelter the most valuable and least winter-hardy fruit plants you can use frame dome structures, both ready-made and self-made. Inner part these structures are either left empty (air serves as a heater), or filled with insulating material (leaves or hay). Oak leaves are best suited for these purposes, which in the first year practically does not cake and does not rot. A film or non-woven material is stretched over the frame. Sometimes domed structures are covered from above with foliage, hay or peat. At correct installation in such frame shelters, plants are able to survive even the most severe winters.
When to cover fruit trees and shrubs for the winter?
Shelter of fruit trees and shrubs for the winter should begin after freezing of the topsoil in late October - early November. Earlier shelter can lead to weakening and even death of plants due to their decay. For the same reason, it is very important to remove the shelter in time in the spring.
Winter is a rather harsh time in many parts of Russia. Therefore, it is very important to take care of your garden pets by carrying out a comprehensive preparation of ornamental shrubs for the winter. If you want to keep an ornamental shrub in looking good, prepare it for winter by observing necessary rules. Each species has exceptional features, so you need to take them into account when doing the job.
The preparation of coniferous and evergreen shrubs for winter should begin with abundant watering, which is done in late autumn. Such plants quickly evaporate the moisture accumulated on the leaves and needles. Evergreen shrubs in winter, they need water, which they get from the soil with the help of roots. Keep in mind that frozen ground does not have enough moisture.
To prepare the plant for winter, you will need tillage, otherwise the ornamental shrub will dry out and lose its attractive appearance.
Plant and soil care is carried out in several stages:
- The basal neck of a young seedling is covered with bark, sawdust and shavings.
- The above-ground parts of the shrubs are covered with straw, burlap or spruce branches.
- Shelter of the plant is carried out at a temperature close to zero.
- To prepare for winter, air-permeable materials are used.
Coniferous and evergreen shrubs should not be covered with foil, as it can create favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases and the appearance of gray mold. Preparation for winter of young plants planted in the current year should be carried out with great care. The first wintering is very important, because it affects the further development of ornamental shrubs. If the preparation has been done correctly, root system strengthened.
In the following seasons, you may not need to cover it from the cold, as the plantings will grow and become more stable.
When caring for coniferous and evergreen shrubs, the site advises to consider the following nuances:
- Some plant species are more susceptible to wind and snowfall than to cold.
- The columnar forms of cypresses and junipers are tied with a rope.
- In early spring you need to sweep snow from the seedlings so that mold does not appear on them.
- ornamental plants in spring, you can spray with foundationazole to protect them from fungi.
- If frosts continue after winter, the plants must be covered, otherwise the young growths will be damaged.
Evergreen shrubs need a garter to keep snow out of them. The crown must be tied with twine to protect the plant from negative impact environment during the cold season.
Conifers - getting ready for winter (video)
Features of various shrubs and site care
Heat-loving plants (for example, Syrian hibiscus, buddley, rhododendrons) need special shelter for the winter. For these purposes, you can use foliage, spruce branches or non-woven materials. If a landscape design site includes other ornamental shrubs, they must also be processed and . From hedges (for example, evergreen boxwood) and sheared figures, precipitation should be removed after heavy snowfalls.
Sculptures must be placed in wooden boxes, which can be designed by yourself. To make such a product, you need to put together wooden bars and cover them with plastic wrap. Small statues can simply be covered with a tarpaulin for the winter. Lamps, stones and others decorative elements it is better to store at home until the onset of spring. Ceramics should be waxed to keep them in good condition.
It is important to consider the following points when preparing for winter:
- Ornamental plants should not be covered before the end of October or beginning of November.
- In warm weather, shrubs rot, so they need to be prepared for wintering during a cold snap.
- Shelter foliage is done in dry weather.
- At herbaceous plants dies off in autumn above-ground part.
- Shrubs with brittle shoots are the most difficult to shelter.
Deciduous rhododendrons do not need shelter for the winter, as they are resistant to frost. In the spring, the soil under them does not need to be watered. warm water, since these plants are quite unpretentious and require minimal care. decorative types forsythia, actinidia, varietal mock oranges are subject to mandatory shelter. Evergreen rhododendrons should be placed in special frames made of wooden boxes or boards. Shelter on top is complemented by materials that do not allow moisture to pass through. These measures are necessary to preserve the brittle shoots of ornamental shrubs.
Each type of plant is selected:
- cinquefoil - phosphorus and potash fertilizers;
- buddley, weigele, action - mineral supplements;
- mock orange, three-lobed almonds - phosphorus and complex;
- boxwood, tamariksu - a mixture of compost and horse manure;
- mackerel - slightly rotted compost;
- tree peony - a mixture of wood ash, mineral fertilizers, manure and compost.
The soil also needs to be prepared for winter: it should be loose, well-groomed, well-ventilated. Naturally, unnecessary weeds must first be removed, uprooted. In spring, shrubs can be treated with complex fertilizers (for example, azofoska or nitroammophos). If you follow all the rules during the preparation of plants for wintering, you will be able to keep ornamental shrubs in excellent condition. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and take into account the characteristics of specific species.
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