19.09.2018 5 563

Pruning currants in the fall - stages and features depending on the variety

Without timely pruning, the currant bush will not be able to produce a full-fledged crop, since the bulk of the berries are tied to last year's growths. Dried and old branches must always be cut so that new shoots appear to replace them.

Benefits of pruning

Thanks to this procedure, the yield increases several times already in the first year. Due to such artificial rejuvenation, the bush can bear fruit several years longer than usual. The whole secret is that old growths that interfere with the development of young shoots are removed to the ground. Experienced gardeners claim that proper pruning of currants after harvest allows the plant to bloom for more than 20 years.

Removing dead branches allows new shoots to receive the required amount of sunlight. For this reason, the yield increases, and the berries themselves ripen large and rich in vitamins. Thanks to photosynthesis, the influx of vital substances for it increases in the plant. In other words, currant pruning is needed so that the nutrients enter only the berries and new shoots, and not the old growths.

The benefits of this procedure are also noticeable when harvesting, since the bush is not thickened with dry branches. As for pruning different varieties berries, then it is practically no different. The difference is that in red currants, even old growths remain fruitful.

Pruning bushes in autumn

Most gardeners recommend trimming extra branches at this time of the year. It is not for nothing that the very first pruning of currants is carried out just in the fall, when the seedlings are transferred to the ground, after getting rid of all the shoots and leaves, except for the lowest growing buds. In this case, it is important that all the branches are tightened, and the roots begin to fully function even before the onset of frost.

In all following years, currant pruning after harvest should be carried out before the first cold weather. The processing of bushes can begin in the fall, and be completed in more detail in the spring. It is important to pay attention to the following nuances:

Young growths that strongly thicken the bush must be thinned out;

Old branches that do not yield a crop for several years in a row should be removed;

Be sure to identify and cut diseased shoots to the ground.

Timely pruning of currants in the fall will allow the plant, with the onset of the first spring rains, not to waste juices and strength on the development of old branches. Before the onset of frost, the soil under the bushes can be fertilized with previously cut leaves. The ideal time to cut off excess growth is November, when the currant is not in a state of activity.

Pruning bushes in spring

Spring is considered the optimal period for the full formation of the plant. Pruning at this time of the year should be done before the buds open, and this happens quite early in currants. That is why gardening experts advise starting this procedure in the fall and completing it in the spring.

If the buds have already begun to appear, then you can forget about the formation of a bush, since at this time juice is produced in the stems. If you start cutting off excess growths, then the plant will expire strongly, and this is very harmful for the future harvest. On the other hand, pruning currants too early will also not entail anything good. Therefore, it is best to get rid of infertile branches immediately after warming.

It is important to know that during the first few years, all growths should be removed, with the exception of the 3-5 strongest. The most promising shoots are those that are located at the root of the plant, and not separated from the trunks. Hemp from cut branches should not be more than 3 centimeters, otherwise they will grow again. It is recommended to process all places of removal of growths special tool so that they heal faster.

How to form blackcurrant bushes

This procedure requires a lot of patience and attention. To form a bush in late autumn, strongly protruding branches should be cut off, leaving 2 buds for the strong, and one for the weak. If long growths are left, then in the spring an uncountable number of buds will appear on them, but the berries on them will grow small and painful.

Currant pruning should continue until only fruitful shoots remain on the bush, otherwise you should not expect a good harvest. Young branches appear very quickly, so the removal procedure must be done in a timely manner. If in autumn period the formation of the bush cannot be completed, it is better to finish it in early spring.

Minerals and water practically do not move along the old branches, which is why they grow so slowly and do not give a proper harvest, and even interfere with the full development of young shoots. If the bush is not cut for several years, then in the end it will wither. The full formation of the crown will be completed only in the fifth year after proper care behind the plant.

Blackcurrant pruning

After final formation bush, you can resort to the procedure for the annual removal of excess sprouts. In fact, it is very simple: only those branches that are more than 5 years old are cut. This procedure is done in early spring, until the buds begin to ripen. On the other hand, many gardeners recommend postponing the cutting of infertile branches to a later period. Pruning blackcurrants in autumn allows the plant to better endure the harsh winter.

Regardless of the time of year, weak and dried branches should be removed to the level of the soil. At this stage, it is important not to miss the infection of the plant. If glassware or kidney mites have settled in it, then it must be immediately dug out along with the ground until the pests have moved to other bushes.

Also, the tops of the growths are pruned, but only if they were frozen after the winter or aphids started up in them. Long branches, the length of which is over 40 centimeters, must be shortened.

How to form a bush of red currant

Proper processing of the crown of this variety consists in pruning old branches that are more than 7 years old. In the case of red and white currants, last year's shoots are not even shortened. There are practically no infertile young growths in this variety, therefore, when forming a bush, you should only get rid of diseased and broken branches.

Old shoots, which are up to 7 years old, can be shortened to the nearest fruitful branching. This stimulates the growth of strong buds and increases the lifespan of the plant. The formed bush as a result should not have more than 25 branches. The procedure itself is repeated for 7-8 years.

Red currant pruning

In order for the berries to please with their size and taste in subsequent years, it is necessary to form the basis of the plant for many years. As soon as the crown receives optimal view and will be able to bear fruit regularly, you can proceed to the standard annual cutting.

Red currant pruning is done either in late autumn or early spring. It will also not be superfluous to carry out the so-called sanitary cutting in the summer, when painful shoots are removed.

Red and white currants have much fewer cut branches than black currants. Even the driest growths can bear fruit for 7-8 years. In addition, the distribution of berries in such varieties is even, so the bushes rarely need annual pruning. The main thing when growing currants is to prevent thickening of the crown and get rid of diseased shoots in time.

Help from professionals

Many amateur gardeners face the problem of declining yields when there are fewer berries every year. And although pruning currant bushes does not require special knowledge, sometimes it will not be superfluous to seek help from specialists.

In any union of gardeners and in related companies there are professionals who can easily demonstrate in practice their skills in shaping and pruning currant bushes. In addition, the scope of services of such specialists includes regular care for plants, their fertilizer, transplantation and other work that can bring a lot of worries to the owner of the site.

1. A large proportion of the crop is formed on shoots that are no more than 2 years old.

2. Pruning of currants in summer is allowed only in case of infection of individual branches of the plant.

3. Old growths are easy to distinguish from young ones, as they have a darker color.

4. When the tops of the stems are infected, they need to be cut only to the first strong shoots.

5. If the branch was broken, then it will no longer be fruitful, and it should be removed, leaving a 3 cm stump.

6. Currant slices do not overgrow on their own, so they must be treated with garden pitch.

7. Clipped shoots are best burned immediately.

Until now, many gardeners do not see the point in pruning, they believe that it gives decorative effect and helps to properly organize the bush of berries so that they can be reached. But this is the last advantage that pruning black berry bushes gives, and its main task is to form the right bush and increase its yield by 3-4 times compared to a neglected plant. Since some types of currants give a lot of shoots, the plant cannot cope with such a vegetative mass and takes energy from healthy fruit-bearing branches. That is why you will lose not only part of the harvest, but also get much more fruit. smaller. Read more about these and other benefits of pruning below.

1. Pest control. Actually, autumn pruning currants are the most effective method get rid of most fungal diseases and insects that live on plants. As you know, 85% of all pests attack exactly the young part of the shoot, that is, the very top. It is she who is cut off every year. Thus, you remove the main "den" of infection and fungus, the main thing is to remove all plant debris from the garden after performing this procedure. Shrub care must be carried out at a clearly defined time in order to remove as many pests as possible and prevent them from hiding in the soil and preparing for winter.
2. Yield increase. As you know, the mass of unnecessary shoots only takes the crop, so it must be constantly removed, preventing it from sucking everything out. vitality from a healthy and fruitful plant. Pruning the tops (pinching) allows you to stop the growth of the shoot and form several other, healthy branches that will grow from it to the sides. Thus, several fruit-bearing branches can be formed on one process.
3. Increased winter hardiness of the plant. Pruning blackcurrants in autumn can significantly increase their resistance to large frosts. Young shoots do not yet have a thick bark and enough sugars to overwinter and usually freeze. If you cut them to desired thickness, then the plant will have time to harvest before frost large quantity nutrients and will be stronger and more prepared. Proper removal branches makes it possible to transfer about 10 degrees more frost than an ordinary neglected shrub.
4. Proper organization of branches. Aesthetic appearance is also important when harvesting. If you correctly remove the shoots and form a “crown”, then you can pick berries without problems and not get hurt on branches and thorns. The fruits are clearly visible and have an excellent decorative appearance.

How to prune currants for the first 2 years

Pruning takes at least 5 years until the plant has up to 20 branches different ages. The bush should consist of no more than 4-5 shoots (you can make 6-7, depending on the variety), on which branches from 5 years to one year old will form. It is they who are fruitful and will give you a solid harvest of berries. The first year you should not fool your head too much and you need to cut off only 15-20% of the length of the shoot so that it begins to form new branches and accumulate as many useful substances as possible before the onset of severe frosts. In the spring, you need to perform a similar operation and shorten the branches a little to make it possible to increase the metabolism in the plant and form correct scheme growth.

If you are interested in the question of how to cut currants for the second year, then it is worth noting that this process is more complicated and requires careful preparation (examination). Here it is necessary to ensure that there is not much overgrowth and remove all emerging processes. You can leave only 4-5 pieces that will be needed to form right bush and will bear fruit next year. Remember that even with abundant fertilizer, you cannot get good harvest if you have up to 15-20 shoots.

Next, you need to pay attention to the two-year plots. We must pinch them, that is, remove the growth point. In this way, you activate dormant buds on biennial stems, which will soon be covered with fruits. By pinching, you can control the harvest time. If it is done early, then ripening will accelerate by 2-3 weeks, and if not done, it will be a little later than the deadline. After performing this operation, it is desirable to enter organic fertilizers and execute foliar top dressing carbamide, so that the process of forming new sections of the stem proceeds as quickly as possible.

The time when it becomes time to cut the currant cannot be precisely determined, since it depends on climatic conditions in which the plant is located. Usually, autumn care performed 2-3 weeks before the first frost, so that the circulation of juice in the stem is minimal and the plant is asleep. You can also remove unnecessary areas in early spring, at the same time checking what is left after the frost and whether the plant has disappeared. Pinching can be done in mid-July, so that the currant still has time to form new knots.

How to prune blackcurrants for the third and fourth year

To begin with, you need to leave all the same 4-5 main shoots that will completely form a bush. All the other “nulls” that appeared over the summer must be removed under the root and made sure that nothing superfluous is left above the ground. They only draw juices, and there will be no benefit from them anymore.

Next, let's pay attention to the biennial shoots that have formed on perennial stems. They need to be pinched so that they grow further to the sides and form a full-fledged crown. The same must be done with annual branches that have recently formed on the stem - we will leave no more than 3-4 buds. Following them, we remove everything that reaches the ground, that is, spread along the floor and grows inside the bush - such formations will be more inconvenience than good, and they will not bring you much fruit.

It is also necessary to take into account the characteristics of each variety, since there are those that have an extremely high ability to restore shoots. Such varieties are cut off almost ½ after the first year of growth and pinched much more often than those that grow very slowly and very rarely give side shoots. In order to determine which pruning method to choose and how much green mass to remove, you can read about the characteristics of your variety on the Internet or follow it yourself for the first year of its life.

After your bush is 5-6 years old, you will also need to remove old trunks that are too thick and no longer form berries. They need to be rooted out. All plant residues after work must be carefully collected and burned, as they may contain a large number of fungal diseases, infections and insects.

Pruning currant bushes is a useful procedure that stimulates growth and improves the quality of the crop. For beginner gardeners, it is important to know how to prune shrubs and what actions should be taken so as not to harm the plant. The answers to these questions can be found in this article.

Necessary trimming tools

For high-quality cutting of branches, special tools will be required:

1. Hacksaw– useful when working with thin branches. When choosing a hacksaw, focus on the size of the cloves: small cloves will not be able to harm the plant.
2. Lopper- resembles a pruner, only with longer handles that allow you to perform the procedure in hard-to-reach places and not harm yourself. It can help improve the healing process.
3. Secateurs - used for cleaning small branches, the thickness of which does not exceed 26 mm. There are secateurs with one-sided and two-sided sharpening.
4. garden knife- will help gardeners to cut the branches of currant bushes evenly thanks to a sharp blade.
5. brush cutters- tools for the care of shrubs. Gardeners use for shaping, removing painful branches. Brush cutters are used to remove shoots whose thickness is 15 mm.

Before proceeding with the autumn pruning of currant branches, be sure to check the tools. Preliminary preparation necessary for the best performance of the procedure. The main requirements are:

• Blade sharpness;
• Comfortable handle;
• Safety in use;
• Light weight;
• Narrow ends (for easy penetration to the base of the branches).

At the end of the procedure, all tools should be wiped with a dry cloth and put in a place convenient for you.

A simple pruning scheme for beginners

The best period for pruning currants is the time of late autumn. Experienced gardeners recommend cleaning at the end of November. For beginners, it is important to know what needs to be cut when it is at rest. In addition to this fact, it is useful for beginners to know what the whole process consists of. There are a number of rules that will help harmlessly cut shrubs:

1. Give more light to the bush. Shoots need a sufficient amount of sunlight, so you need to ensure that it gets inside the currant bushes. A shrub with an age of 4 years should not have more than six shoots. It is important to monitor this, to prevent growth.
2. Work to carry out from the base of the currant. Five-year-old shoots must be cut off, otherwise they will not bear fruit well.
3. Remove lateral growths of shrubs. Removing such branches contributes to a better lightening of the currant bush. Very often, lateral growths become a hindrance to sunlight.
4. Do not leave weak branches. The ability to bear fruit is minimal, they will become an obstacle to sunlight.
5. It is undesirable to remove the tops of the shoots. The tops are left due to the fact that buds form on them, which will bring the crop in the future.

• The presence of thick kidneys is a sign of the appearance of a tick;
• The presence of green tops - poor frost tolerance;
• The presence of twisted leaves is a sign of infection with anthracosis.

Beginners need to be more careful when cleaning fruit-bearing shrubs and prune every year. This will prevent the death of the plant.

High-quality performance of the procedure also serves as a prevention of the occurrence of various diseases. This will prevent the death of the plant.

The order of pruning currants in the second year of vegetation

biennial bushes black currant bear fruit on last year's branches, while forming new basal shoots. The yield of biennial shrubs is about 14% with proper care.

In the second year of the growing season, gardeners begin to shorten the shoots of the plant. There is an order for pruning bushes in the autumn:

1. Removal of "null" shoots. In this case, it is worth leaving from three to five main and strong shoots. Excess branches are cut off at the base.
2. Pruning branches that create shade. Such branches prevent sunlight from breaking through into the bush. It is advisable to complete this procedure before October.
3. Top shortening. The shortening procedure contributes to the formation of a bush with branches of different ages, and ensures the emergence of side branches.
4. Removal of old and diseased branches. Painful branches must be removed when cleaning the shrub, because due to infection by pests, the plant stops producing crops and eventually dies.

Shrub branches are made shorter by 10-13 cm to stimulate the formation of fruits, as well as to increase the chances of new growth.

Some gardeners also argue that in the second year of the growing season, the bushes can be left uncut. One has only to pay attention and remove only those branches that have fallen to the ground.

Features of pruning white and red currants

The formation of buds at the base of annual branches is considered the main hallmark plants. These plants have fewer null shoots. In addition, the degree of thickening of the bush branches is much lower, in contrast to the black one. The fruiting period is from 15 years.

Berry fruits are more evenly distributed, so red currant bushes need less pruning than black currants. A bush of white or red currant usually has up to 20 branches that bear fruit well (regardless of age). Pruning is somewhat different from blackcurrant pruning:

1. When planting, perform the first pruning. In this case, you need to leave about three very shortened boles. Depending on the number of root shoots formed, clean.
2. Leave strong shoots. For better fruiting, do not cut about four young shoots that have the best development.
3. Depending on the intensity of growth - shorten half the length of the shoot.
4. Shortening of young growths is not allowed. With this removal, the risk of reduced yields increases.
5. Removal of old boles seven years old. They impair the fruiting process. You can determine the old age of boles by the black color of the bark.
6. You need to start by cutting off branches that interfere with normal growth. They usually overlap with others and interfere with normal development.
7. Slices lubricate with pitch. If the cut diameter is at least 7 mm.
8. Avoid bush thickening. The cleaning process should be carried out as fouling occurs. You should not perform this process very often, as you can reduce the yield. For gardeners, it is important to choose the "golden mean" for caring for currants.
9. Correct branch cut. To make it as high quality as possible, you need to make a cut on the outer kidney in an upward direction.

red and white currant less whimsical to clean, but the procedure is worth it, as this forms a healthy fruit-bearing plant.

Timely cleaning of fruit-bearing plants normalizes development, increases productivity. This process should be one of the main ones not only for beginners, but also for experienced gardeners. Proper and systematic pruning will not only improve the health of shrubs, but also make them an attractive addition to the garden.

No trim currant bush will not be able to bear fruit with full dedication, because the main part of the berries is tied up on last year's growth of branches of four to five years of age.

Old, withered, affected by pests and interfering with the formation of new shoots, branches must be cut regularly so that new fruit-bearing ones grow to replace them. Rejuvenating a currant bush from time to time, you can get excellent yields from it for 25 years (for black) or 15 years (for red).

When is the best time to prune currants? How to form a bush? Are there any differences in the rules for pruning black and red currants? Now let's figure it out!

Blackcurrant grows in a spreading bush, consisting of many branches. The task of the gardener is to form each bush so that it represents 15-20 branches of different ages (from zero to six years). It makes no sense to leave branches older than six years in the bush: there will be no berries on them. For the correct formation of the bush, pruning is recommended to start from the very first year of the life of the bush, that is, immediately after planting.

Pruning currant seedlings when planting

When planting a currant seedling, you will have to cut off the tops of all available shoots, leaving 2-3 buds on each branch.

You should not worry - by the end of the first year of life, a young bush will give out five or six new shoots.

Pruning currants of the second year

In the second year, young (zero) shoots are cut from the bush, leaving from three to five of the best and most powerful. These branches will become the first skeletal branches of the future bush. Do not leave shaded, feeble shoots that interfere with others.

In addition, to provide education a large number lateral shoots in the middle of summer, young branches are shortened, pinching their tops into two buds.

This procedure helps to increase small fruit twigs (fruits) on old branches, and also stimulates the growth of new zero shoots from the underground buds of the bush.

So two birds with one stone are killed with one blow: both the crop grows and the formation of the bush goes in the right direction.

Pruning currants of the third and fourth years

Everything repeats again: from the youngest (zero) shoots, a few (3-6) of the most developed and well-located are left, and all the rest are mercilessly removed. It is especially important to cut out weak and underdeveloped shoots from the middle of the bush, which can potentially “thicken” the bush, shade fruiting branches and slow down the growth of new shoots.

At last year's branches, the tops are shortened.

On the branches of the second and third years, two to four buds are left on each branch. By this time, the currant bush takes its shape and is considered fully formed.

Pruning currants in the fifth or sixth and all subsequent years

At this stage of life, old branches appear in the currant, and the first “rejuvenating” pruning is required for the bush.

So five- or six-year-old old branches must be cut near the ground along with tops (this is the name of the shoots coming from the base of the old branch), and also remove all dry, frozen, broken, drooping and lying on the ground branches, branches that interfere with each other, diseased or affected by pests.


The rest of the trimming is done according to the knurled pattern:
- at the branches of the second, third and fourth years, each branch is shortened, leaving 2-4 buds;
- the tops of the shoots of the last year are cut off;
- from the shoots of the current year, 3-5 of the most promising are left, and all the rest are removed.

When to prune currants

Pruning of currants of all kinds is recommended annually. The best time for this event - late autumn (after the leaves fall). You can also do additional pruning in early spring (before bud break), for example, cut all frozen tops and branches broken during the winter.

Dry branches can be cut at any time of the year, as soon as you notice them.

Pinching the tops of young currant shoots is usually carried out in mid-July.

Features of pruning red and white currants

Unlike black currants, red and white currants are advised to be cut in early spring or even in summer after harvest.

The formation of the bush occurs in the same way as that of black currant, with one exception: the tops of last year's growths are not pinched, and the shoots of the 2nd and 3rd years are not shortened. That is, pruning red currants consists in removing old branches (moreover, in white and red currants, branches of seven or eight years old are considered old), extra zero shoots, as well as broken, diseased and frozen branches.

Old branches, but still productive branches, can be shortened to the nearest strong lateral branch, stimulating the growth of lateral shoots and thus increasing the life of the bush and the size of the berries.

A properly formed bush of red or white currant should consist of 20-25 branches from one to eight years old.

We wish you success and great harvests!