Preparing the beds for spring in the fall. Autumn work to prepare the garden for winter. Secrets of experienced gardeners

Many gardeners are of the opinion that all autumn work on garden plot ends with the arrival of autumn and cold weather.

However, the preparation of beds for winter is just beginning. This is a fundamental point for a future harvest without chemicals. Let's figure it out and find out in more detail what autumn work needs to be done on the site and how to prevent land depletion and maintain fertility. These methods can be used in Siberia, the Urals and the Moscow region.

Principles of preparing the garden for winter

Sowing green manure. Should be started immediately after harvest. This helps to cover the surface of the earth in autumn, not to freeze in winter, snow is better retained on the surface, microorganisms remain in the soil and multiply much more, and this can provide the soil with everything it needs without the use of fertilizers.

Mulching. It is necessary to cover future beds with a layer of manure, humus or compost (if green manure has not been sown).

Warm beds. For their preparation, you can take the tops of any garden plants(without visible infection). And in the spring season, just pour them with liquid microorganisms and then the process will start.

Treatment from harmful insects. In order to avoid contamination of the soil and undesirable consequences from pests, it is necessary to shed liquid microorganisms.

Let's dwell on each question in more detail.

Preparing beds for winter

Fertilization of the soil plays a special role in the preparation. Farming experts believe that there is no need to dig up the earth and add manure or other fertilizers: all these measures will not benefit your garden. The soil does not need to be dug up, but it is important to place fertilizers on top of the ground.

The most positive outcome will be the use of exclusively natural fertilizers. This category includes items that are considered organic waste - branches, boards, old paper. Ash after burning such things will perfectly nourish the soil of the site. It should be scattered throughout the garden.

It is also worth paying attention to manure: it is great view fertilizers. It is undesirable to use purchased manure, as it may contain infections that will get into your soil. Application of manure from own pets will good decision. Such fertilizer should be mixed with sawdust and placed over the entire surface of the site.

The note! " organic species Soil recharge can be harvested throughout the year."

It is necessary to prepare the beds as they are released. An empty bed should be dug up with sand and sown with green manure. After the emergence of seedlings and they reach the flowering phase, you can again dig the ground. But it is necessary to do this so that the plants are under a clod of earth (do not break the clods).

This method of digging the soil has its advantages: it is processed small areas and garden soil before it is covered with snow, it looks well-groomed. Sowing green manure in the fall has an aesthetic appearance and is partly a replacement for manure or humus. With a preventive purpose for the destruction of the larvae of various insects, you can apply:

• dig up the soil;
• spill the earth with a 40% solution of metham-sodium;
• fumigation with sulfur;
• collect the visible larvae with your hands.

Then we fertilize the greenhouse beds. When digging, we simultaneously add organic fertilizers, humus, manure, compost. The amount of fertilizer will depend on the choice planting material to this greenhouse.

Sprinkle sand or ash on top and cover with dry grass or foliage. And you can also cover the soil with snow. In spring, during thawing, it will saturate the soil with moisture.

warm beds

These include beds, which consist of the remains of plants. Its device lies in the fact that in the process of decay organic plants formed a large number of thermal energy, which heats root system(for example, a tomato) and helps to endure a cold period. And also during the processes of decay, carbon dioxide is formed, which contributes to the formation of nutrients.

The note! “This type of beds is made before the winter period, since in autumn there is a lot of vacant land and plant remains.”

For its construction, you need to make a box of wooden planks and put wood waste (shavings, sawdust) on the bottom. Then put a paper layer (newspapers, paper, etc.), sprinkle with compost or manure on top. The top layer is cut grass, foliage, weeds, etc.

It is necessary to shed such a bed every day for the formation of a rotting process. In the spring, you need to pour humus over the existing layers, and plants can be planted.

Digging the earth in open ground

There are two methods of digging in the fall in open ground:

• dumpless; in this case, the dug up soil is not turned over or broken; this allows you to save the natural environment;
• dump; here the earth is turned over so that upper layer was at the very bottom. Such a measure allows you to prevent the growth of weeds and destroy harmful insects during the winter period.

It is impossible to single out one of these methods as the best. However, in any case, the dug-up soil should not be broken, otherwise the earth may freeze, and when it becomes warmer, the snow will melt, soak into the ground and it will be crumbly.

The note! “The digging process is carried out with a shovel or villas. Usually one shovel bayonet is enough for proper digging in open ground.

in the greenhouse

Land care in a greenhouse has a slightly different approach. Remove up to 10 cm of the top layer of earth to kill pests, and then place fresh soil there. If it is not possible to replace the soil in the greenhouse, then it should be disinfected. This can be done with boiling water, a solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate and other methods.

siderates

Preparing the garden for winter includes sowing green manure in the fall. This is an important step to get good harvest and fertile soil. Competent use This solution makes it possible to conserve land even when crops are grown annually in the same place.

Do not forget that before sowing green manure, data on their compatibility with other crops should be taken into account. It is important to pay attention to the plants that were planted last year and are planned to be sown. Given this information, you should make a choice of green manure.

If you choose the wrong green fertilizer, it can ruin future harvest. There is no need to place green manure underground. Such a measure will not bring any benefit and you will just waste your time. Nutrient components are located in green manure. Worms will process this part of the plants. Planting and supporting the development of green manure is all that is needed for good soil fertility.

Compost

The first step is to prepare the compost pit. It must be filled in autumn period. At this time, there is enough organic debris on the ground. The bottom layer should be waste that rots for a long time, namely wood (branches, boards, etc.). Next, you need to put food waste, grass and manure. At the top, you need to put leaves, then earth. Such a pile needs to be watered with EM preparations.

When you completely fill the space of the pit, you should cover it with polyethylene and leave until spring period. Up to this point, all elements will rot. Cold temperatures will not harm the recycling process and you will have ready-made compost at the beginning of the gardening period.

Mulching

Mulching in the fall is an important step in growing your own vegetable garden. This measure allows you to give the soil required amount important organic matter, which will allow the land to have high fertility for a long period. It is the autumn period that is most favorable for this process. The crop has already been harvested, and there is a lot of organic garbage on the ground.

Leaves, the remains of vegetables and fruits, as well as other natural waste should not be removed from the soil. Add sawdust, leaves, plants on top of it all and cover it all with cardboard. If there is no complete thick sheet, then you can use carton boxes. This method of mulching will protect the earth from the cold, and also allow it to become healthier.

Fruit trees can be insulated with mulching. For this, the same organic waste is used. They are able to protect tree roots from cold conditions. However, you can not use dry grass, because rodents can start in it. For each of the measures listed, you can find a video instruction that will help you to carry out the activities correctly.

Save so you don't lose!

Many novice gardeners calm down from worries by the end of autumn and leave the beds until spring without special attention. Those who have been taking care of the land for more than a year know that the harvest will largely depend on the condition of the garden in the winter. next year.
In autumn, it is necessary to make a number of techniques that will become the basis for good development and fruiting. vegetable crops and less hassle next year.

The main rule for a high yield with minimal cost labor is neatness. It is precisely how scrupulously we approach the cleanliness of our beds that largely determines their infestation with diseases and pests. Most of these enemies of the gardener not only infect plants during the season, but, remaining on plant debris, successfully overwinter and infect crops of subsequent seasons.

We clean the garden from plant residues. Therefore, even if the crop of the current year was harvested with attention, the beds could accumulate the remains of cultivated crops, weeds, wind-blown debris. By winter, they must be carefully collected and laid in compost heap, and parts of plants affected by diseases should be completely removed from the site or burned.

There are several rules:

Autumn digging, as the basis for preparing for spring plantings Except surface cleaning, the earth also needs autumn digging. Today, many gardeners are arguing on this issue, but if you look at the advantages of this agricultural technique, it still turns out that doing it is more useful than harmful. Why?

The dug up earth freezes better - this is a good prevention against fungal, viral, bacterial infections and insect pests wintering in it. Saturated with oxygen. Acquires a looser structure. Holds snow well. It is better saturated with spring moisture. Part of the seeds of weeds that have fallen on its surface during the growing season fall to a depth from which they cannot rise. And in the spring, it is even easier to take care of a garden bed that has been treated since autumn.

In addition, it is for autumn digging that it is recommended to apply the main fertilizer, lime, clay and other components aimed at improving the soil. Only in autumn it is possible to deepen the arable layer by cultivating the land. Thus, replace autumn digging, especially for heavy clay and acidic soils, spring will not succeed, as they have different tasks and advantages. Only on light soils can this agricultural method be abandoned in favor of spring work, replacing autumn digging with surface loosening.

How to properly dig the soil in the fall

To achieve the greatest effect, it is necessary to prepare in advance for the autumn digging:

the first stage is the cleaning of the beds from the plants cultivated on it;
the second - surface loosening of the earth in order to provoke a new wave of weed growth;
the third is the pre-winter digging itself.

Usually, autumn digging is carried out at the end of September (where winter begins earlier) and up to the end of October (where autumn is characterized by a measured decrease in temperatures). The main thing is to guess the moment before the onset of prolonged rains.

The soil coming out from under the shovel is not loosened, but left in clods. In this state, it freezes better, accumulates more snow, and in areas with a slight slope it retains spring melt water.

The depth of digging is chosen depending on the cultivated layer. Usually it is about 20 cm, but in general from 15 to 35 cm. On lands that need to increase the fertile layer once every three years, the digging depth is increased by 3-5 cm with the obligatory turning over of the layer and fertilizing.

We prepare the beds.
On well-cultivated soils, during autumn digging, the earth layer is not turned over.

Disinfection

It happens that the crops in the beds were very badly damaged by diseases and therefore the soil after them must be disinfected. Here, a good solution is not only deep digging with a turnover of the reservoir, but also sowing green manure (for example, white mustard), introducing semi-rotted cow manure, spreading ash, tilling the soil with any microbiological preparation, scalding the earth with boiling water. If possible, you can plant the vegetative mass of marigolds into the soil. In cases where none of the above is at hand, spread the straw over the bed and burn it.

When applying organic fertilizers the best choice is cow dung. It is scattered over the surface of the beds in the amount of 3 - 6 kg per 1 sq. m, and carefully dug up, planting in the soil on the same day, to a depth of 15 cm. The result of manure application is observed within 4-7 years (depending on the type of soil), so it is not necessary to apply it annually, but should be applied every 3 - 4 years. In addition, not all crops respond well to it, therefore, it is introduced under the most responsive of them - potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes.
An even more effective option is the combination of organic matter with mineral fertilizers. But here it is necessary to remember that it does not make sense to introduce nitrogen for autumn digging, but only the phosphorus-potassium group. Here excellent choice potassium sulphate can become - it has calcium, magnesium and no chlorine, and it can be used on any soil. For light sandy and sandy loamy soils - kalimag. From phosphate fertilizers - superphosphate, phosphate rock.

We build warm beds.

Highly good option for late autumn application, narrowly focused complex fertilizers marked “autumn” are used. Today they can be found on sale not only with recommendations for use for a particular crop, but also in packages labeled “for strawberries”, “for grapes”. This facilitates the selection and ensures the literacy of the application.

Warm beds

A good owner does not waste anything. Therefore, at the time of collecting plant residues, many gardeners form warm beds. Plant debris, fallen leaves, cut branches just go into the dug trenches. During the winter, all this rots and becomes an excellent food for plants.

The earth must not be empty

In areas with high winds, on slopes, and even where the land already needs to be updated, planting green manure for the winter is a very good agronomic technique. It can be rapeseed, winter rye, winter vetch or oats. In addition to the fact that their roots will loosen the soil, and the vegetative mass will become an excellent organic fertilizer, these crops will bring other benefits: they will retain snow on the soil surface, protect the earth from leaching and weathering, and protect plantings (for example, strawberries) from spring return frosts.

You can sow green manure in several stages: already in August, then later landing will have to repeat, or in September. If crops were delayed for late deadline- it doesn’t matter either - they will sprout in the spring and still have time to fulfill their function. Podzimnye planting It will not be superfluous to think about winter plantings before winter. Crops planted in autumn will sprout two weeks earlier, give hardened, disease-resistant seedlings, save spring time work and allow re-sowing. Most often, carrots, beets, salads, dill and parsley are sown before winter, planted winter garlic and onion sets.

We carry out winter landings.

Start off winter crops it is necessary not earlier than with stable thermometer readings around 0 ° C and continue until the first stable frosts on pre-prepared beds.

Crop rotation.

And finally, crop rotation. The condition of the soil, the contamination of the garden with weeds, the prevalence of insect pests, the mass reproduction of bacterial and fungal diseases, and the need to apply certain fertilizers depend on how well it is thought out and observed. Therefore, if it is not there, it is precisely in the autumn period, when the beds are empty, that you need to be patient, pick up a pencil, study the characteristics of crops and draw up a plan for their alternation.

Getting ready for the new gardening season begins ahead of time. Even in the fall, they carefully dig up the earth, supply it with the necessary fertilizers and get rid of garbage. At the end of winter, you need to make detailed plan preparatory and sowing work, which will allow you to plan future plantings and achieve efficient use of time with the onset of spring.

When do the beds begin to be prepared?

Usually, all ground work in the season begins in April. More the exact date it is impossible to name, since much depends on the established weather and on the climatic features of your region. Often at this time there is still snow, and the temperature is kept below zero. Do not rush into the furrow as soon as the snow has melted. At this stage, the earth is still very heavy, filled with moisture and cold. You need to wait for the sun to dry and warm the soil, otherwise your exit to the garden will be like kneading mud. The only thing you can do while the earth comes to its senses after a long winter period, - release shrubs and plants from winter protection.

To find out that the soil is ready, take a little in your hands and crumble it. It should break up into small lumps, and not lie in a heavy massive lump. Do not wait for the drying of the earth. If early sowing of crops is planned, then soil preparation begins earlier - when there are still remnants of snow. In this case, the beds must be sprinkled with peat or ash, which will accelerate the heating of the earth and allow planting crops much earlier.

Stages of preparation

Spring preparation and its stages, first of all, depend on the work done in the fall. The better you work in October, the easier it will be for you when the new season begins. Therefore, it is recommended to start preparing the beds for spring immediately after the end of the previous season.

Digging or loosening

What exactly and in what sequence to perform depends on the characteristics of the soil and how the site was treated in the fall. If at the end of the previous season the earth was not dug up, then it will have to be done in the spring - many gardeners do just that, while fertilizing the soil with nitrogen-containing fertilizers - they will allow weed residues and other organic matter to decompose. In the spring, you do not need to dig deep (no more than 15 cm) - a more thorough plowing should be left for the fall. Much technique is more important- try to ensure the turnover of the formation in order to Bottom part appeared on the surface.

After spring digging, the earth should stand a little and compact - it is impossible to plant vegetables and other plantings immediately. As a rule, 3-5 days are enough, after which you can proceed to landing work. If the earth was dug up in the fall, then it is loosened. At the same time, it is necessary to remove the roots of weeds as much as possible, otherwise they will quickly fill the space and absorb the main elements from the soil. nutrients so necessary cultivated plants.

To loosen the soil, a rotary cultivator or star roller is used, which easily breaks up earthen blocks and makes the soil evenly crumbly. It is enough to “comb” light soil with a conventional rake.

What to do with weeds

All vegetable waste, which are collected in the spring from the beds, it is better to put them in a compost bin. Last year's leaves, and various rhizomes, sprouts and flowers of dandelions go here. You can fertilize the compost pit with manure, but in this case you will have to wait until it overheats, and only then use the resulting humus. Cabbage stumps, tomato roots are not put in the compost - all this can be a carrier of diseases. In order for the compost to ripen as soon as possible, do not forget to turn it with a pitchfork on sunny days to saturate the cavities with oxygen.

Soil nutrition

How and how to fertilize the soil in spring is a matter of dispute for many gardeners. Some prefer organic fertilizers, others choose mineral fertilizers, and still others get by with the right crop rotation. To understand what exactly is needed, evaluate the characteristics of the soil - the level of acidity and moisture availability. Most often used:

• compost - retains moisture well, saturating the earth with nutrients;
• sand - improves the drainage qualities of clay soil, it is better to use a building variety;
• manure - applied during digging, helps retain moisture and provides drainage, due to the high nitrogen content reduces the number of weeds;
• calcium-containing materials - reduce the acidity of the soil, are scattered over the surface before the formation of beds;
• peat moss - perfectly retains moisture, used in sandy soil;
• sawdust is an excellent drainage material that gets rid of excess water.

When using fertilizers, it is important to observe the measure - their excess is just as detrimental to plants as a lack. Follow the fertilizer recommendations for the type of soil and crops you plan to grow.

disengagement

One of the most time-consuming procedures that require considerable experience and skills from gardeners. Many people prefer to dig up only the ridge itself, where the crop will be planted. At the same time, the distance between the ridges remains intact in the full power of weeds. On the one hand, there is less work: there is no need to open and plow the compacted earth (if the path has always been in this place). But on the other hand, it is this path that becomes the source of the spread of weeds. Grass shamelessly grows on carefully cleaned beds, forcing you to weed again and again. Sawdust or mowed grass allow you to cope with this - they are periodically sprinkled on the aisles, which does not allow weeds to appear.

If the territory allows, arrange narrow beds - 50 cm wide and with a boundary of 90-100 cm. With this approach, plants get the maximum solar energy, nutrients and moisture, due to which they grow rapidly without special efforts from the side of man. In cold regions, it is advisable to form high beds. Their borders are treated with any suitable material: logs, slate, boards, etc. The width of such a bed is 1-1.2 meters, and the height is 50 cm.

Preparation of beds for different crops

• For a rich harvest carrots It is recommended to mix the seeds with a small amount of sand. good neighbor an onion is used for an orange vegetable - a little sand is also mixed into it, which, by the way, makes it easier to harvest.
• cucumbers grow well if in autumn or in early spring add a solid layer of compost to the soil (not fresh, but prepared in advance). To get rid of various organisms in the soil, it is recommended to steam the soil with boiling water shortly before planting or pour it with a pinkish solution of manganese.
• For garlic use either compost or double superphosphate and others mineral fertilizers, depending on the type of soil. Since this is a sun-loving plant, it is recommended to plant it on high narrow beds. Some gardeners prepare the ground for garlic planting using a mixture of peas, oats and white mustard.
• For tomatoes the earth must be closed from evaporation - it is slightly dried up and leveled with a rake, due to which its heating is accelerated. After some time, weeds appear on the surface - it is important to remove them completely at this stage. Tomatoes love organic (rotted) and mineral fertilizers.
• A bountiful harvest potatoes can be obtained if you dig the ground well in the fall, and repeat the procedure in the spring, but to a lesser depth. Along the way, you need to make nitrogen fertilizers. After plowing, the bed is harrowed. In too wet soil, it is necessary to organize drainage channels and sand the soil.
• For strawberries treat the soil with mortar blue vitriol(2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Bird manure or compost is used as fertilizer. It is advisable to sprinkle the beds with ash or chopped straw (sawdust). Nitrogen fertilizers will not be superfluous either.
• noble harvest beets can be obtained if the soil is generously flavored with humus or compost - 2-2.5 kg is applied per 1 m 2. A little ammonium nitrate (17-19 g), superphosphate and potassium chloride will not hurt.

Preparation of beds in greenhouses

Usually, the same crops are planted in greenhouses from year to year, which requires gardeners to pay special attention to the soil in the greenhouse. It is important to properly prepare the soil so that the next harvest is plentiful enough. This requires:

1. Replace the top layer of soil - remove 10-20 cm and pour in a purchased or self-prepared mixture (one part of soddy land accounts for one part river sand, three humus and five peat).
2. Sow green manure in the aisles.
3. Use EM preparations designed to make the harvest environmentally friendly and safe.

Greenhouses are protected from snow in winter, so the soil inside can be dry in spring. To prevent this, throw snow in late spring. When it melts, the ground will be saturated with moisture and prepared to receive seeds.

Preparation of beds using EM technology + video

AT recent times more and more often they talk about the processing of beds using EM technology. It's about mixing cultures. beneficial organisms, which create optimal microflora in the soil, creating Better conditions for enhanced plant growth. The essence of the technique is to treat the beds with special solutions that saturate the soil necessary elements and significantly increase fruit set.

To prepare the land using this technology, it is necessary as soon as the soil "ripens":

1. Treat it with a Fokin flat cutter or a hoe.
2. Pour EM solution at the rate of 1:100. For each square meter accounts for approximately 1.5-2 liters of such a solution.
3. Sow as desired.
4. Plant seedlings directly into green manure crops, which are then mowed and used as mulch in other areas.

After such preparation, seeds and seedlings are planted only after 2-2.5 weeks. Such preparation has a particularly beneficial effect on the yield of root crops and gourds: the number of rotten and affected by pathogenic microflora fruits decreases, the natural fertility of the soil is restored, humus accumulates.

Regardless of whether you are going to grow vegetables, flowers or shrubs and trees, the first step is to prepare the soil. In well loosened soil, the roots will be able to develop optimally, it easily seeps into such soil rainwater and water from irrigation, and exactly where you need it - directly to the roots, and excess moisture is easily removed. Soil with small clods is the optimal cradle for yours.

If you didn't do deep loosening in the fall, you can do it in the spring. However, it must be carried out in a timely manner, when the soil is not frozen and is no longer too wet. After all, after loosening, the soil should settle a little more and compact - only after that you can plant it in it. Try not to trample loosened soil as much as possible. For example, work mostly in reverse and lay a board if you still need to step into the garden.

Preparing beds and other areas for planting

Compost provides nutrients slowly but for a long time and generally improves soil properties. And the plants after planting begin to grow well. But it is necessary to use mature, mixed with the ground and sieved compost, which was “ready” last fall (especially for seedlings). It is best to apply it a couple of weeks before sowing. First spread the compost with a shovel or bucket over the area to be planted in a layer of about 1 cm, and then mix it into the soil, but do not bury!

Prepare the beds - loosening in the spring: give air, weeds away

If deep loosening of the soil was carried out in autumn, light loosening is enough in spring to ventilate its upper layer:

• To do this, use a grubber, cultivator or ripper.
• In dug up soil, you first need to crush large clods of earth with a pickaxe.
• At the same time, carefully collect the roots of weeds - these efforts will pay off in any case.

It is best to loosen a couple of days before planting, so that the soil has time to settle again.

How to get loose soil - an important point in preparing beds for sowing and planting seedlings

The rotary cultivator, or star roller, is a practical tool for breaking up clods and clods and removing weeds. It will be especially useful on soils prone to clumping; in other cases, you can get by with a rake.

Expert Tip: Put large clods of earth on top - they'll serve you well.

Level the ground well

Some soils are sometimes very difficult to level. To do this, you have to work with a rake up and down on the surface and rake large clods to the side. The fact that the soil is again slightly compacted does not harm the plants at all, on the contrary, it provides the seeds and roots of plants best contact with earth.

Expert Tip: Level holes that get waterlogged because they can damage seeds and seedlings.

Paths and borders between beds

If the aisles are not paved with anything, then it is best to trample them down well, and then cover them with bark mulch or rubble. To keep the edges of the beds clear, use a rope stretched between the pegs, or a piece of hose. A simple and flexible border for beds can be durable plastic border tapes or vertically dug plates. The wooden palisade looks, of course, more beautiful, but it outlines too rigidly.

Preparation for the gardening season begins in early spring. But before that, at the end of winter, careful planning must be done so that preparatory work proved to be the most effective. If you have a site plan, great. If not, you will have to make a trip to the dacha and conduct a “reconnaissance” of the area. You need to get an accurate idea of ​​what and how much you will grow in the coming season. And as soon as April comes, start preparing the land for the future bountiful harvest.

Preparation of beds in the spring begins depending on climatic conditions your area. Traditionally in middle lane it's april. The main thing is that the snow melts and the temperature rises above zero.

You should not go "into the field" as soon as the last snow has disappeared. Wait until the sun dries the top layer of soil, and the moisture from the melting snow goes deeper into the ground.

While the garden looks like a mud bath, the summer resident has something to do. Gardening also requires attention. And so as not to waste precious time on processing and trimming fruit trees and berry bushes do it first.

They need to be freed from insulation and protective shelters, whitened, if you have not done this before, spend sanitary pruning until the kidneys wake up, and perform preventive treatment to save the young green leaves that will soon appear from greedy pests.

How to know that the soil is ready for cultivation

To understand whether or not the land is ready for spring preparation of beds, people have long used a proven method. Take some earth in the palm of your hand and try to crumble it. The soil should break up into small fragments.

If it lies in a sticky block, it is too early to process. But if it crumbles as soon as you touch it, then you are a little late, and the earth has dried up.

You should not wait for the soil to dry out, otherwise you will have to carry out water-charging watering of the entire garden before sowing. To make the soil ready for cultivation faster, for sowing cold-resistant and early crops, pour peat on the remaining snow on the beds. This will speed up the warm-up and allow you to start processing earlier.

Preparation by stages

As with any planned action, spring training the beds have their own stages, each of which must be completed in its own time. Much depends on what garden work were held in the fall.

Digging

If you have not dug up the ground since autumn (it is recommended to do this in October, when the crop is harvested, the remains are removed, but the cold has not yet come in full force), digging will be the first step in preparing for sowing. Don't dig deep in the spring. If autumn digging is done 25 cm deep, in spring 15 cm is enough. But the turnover of the reservoir must be complete so that all the lower part of the soil is on top.

Fertilizer

Simultaneously with digging, the soil is saturated with nitrogen. You can only apply well and completely rotted compost or manure. If in the fall you dug up the garden and added organic matter, you can skip these two steps and go directly to loosening. If you are digging and fertilizing in the spring, wait a week for the soil to recompact slightly.

loosening

The dug up earth must be loosened. The loosening layer should be shallow - 5-10 cm. In this case, all roots are removed weeds so that they do not germinate, becoming an obstacle to the sprouts of sown cultivated seeds. If digging is carried out with a shovel, then for loosening it is better to use a rotary cultivator or, in the case of the formation of earthen blocks, a star roller.

These devices can break up earth seals, give the soil uniformity and light structure.

Weeds and other plant waste that you have removed from the garden can be composted. Also, autumn foliage collected from the site is allowed here, if the trees are not affected by fungal diseases. Plants can be transferred to compost pit manure or sprinkle with humus. In the first case, it will take more time to rot the compost mass.

Leveling and marking ridges

Loose soil must be leveled. This can be done with an ordinary rake. After that, you can start marking the ridges. Traditionally, the maximum width of the beds should not exceed 1.2 m, so that it is convenient to carry out sowing, weeding, breaking through and other plant care work. The length can be any, at your discretion.

Along the edge of the bed, if there is no border on the border with the passage, it is good to fill in earthen rollers, up to 8 cm high. They will not allow moisture to drain from the ridge during irrigation and protect the usable sown area from the penetration of weeds from the outside.

If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden allows, create ideal beds, the width of which will be 60-70 cm. Between them, arrange paths of approximately the same width. Then everyone, even tall garden plants will have enough sunlight moisture and space in the soil to grow to its full potential.

Interesting way:

The paths are also dug up, like the ridges, but not as deep, only to remove weed rhizomes from the soil. After the beds are ready, the paths are sprinkled with sawdust or other mulching material. So weeds will not grow on them, which otherwise will soon be on usable area beds, interfering with cultivated plants and taking away their nutrients.

You can equip high beds. This is especially true in the northern regions. Their borders are outlined half a meter wide wooden beam, slate, board, any materials so that you get a kind of box. The inside is filled with earth at a level higher than 35-45 cm than the level of the garden. The width can be about a meter, but not more than 1.2 m.

How to improve the soil

Sometimes it is necessary to improve not only the structure, but also the quality of the soil. In the spring, this is done by fertilizing. To understand exactly what substances need to be applied, evaluate the quality of the soil. This can be done manually by determining the type by the nature of the earthy coma. Clay soils from a coma do not break. Fertile chernozems break up with medium force. Sandstone crumbles instantly.

What can be used.

1. organic fertilizers.
2. mineral fertilizers.
3. Peat or sand bedding.

When fertilizing and excipients important measure. Don't cut many components, choose one or two, depending on the needs of your soil.

What ingredients are added to the soil.

How to cook ridges in greenhouses

In the greenhouse in the spring, it is also necessary to prepare the area for sowing. This is done two weeks earlier than the weather allows you to start preparing in the garden.

Often in greenhouses, crop rotation is not observed very carefully. They have been sown the same crops in their places for years. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully prepare the soil for sowing in a greenhouse.

1. Replace the top layer first. Remove about 15 cm of the old soil, take it out of the greenhouse (it can be used in open beds) and fill this place with freshly prepared soil.
2. For topping up, the soil is prepared from soddy soil, river sand, humus and peat in a ratio of 1: 1: 3: 5.
3. Next, the poured soil must be well moistened by choosing any method of watering. It is possible, if there is still snow outside the greenhouse, to throw it on the greenhouse beds. When melted, it will provide the necessary moisture.
4. The last step is loosening, marking the beds and arranging holes or furrows for sowing seeds.