For an adult plant, even in very good shape, this is normal. The trunk, as it grows, is freed from excess leaves, they dry and die. If the leaves dry very hard, the cause may be an unbalanced soil.
Attention! A common mistake is adding coconut fiber to the potting mix yourself.
Often this fiber is of low quality and enriched with sea salts. Exactly an excess of minerals in the soil causes adenium health problems. The solution in this case will be to transplant the plant into a newly purchased balanced soil made in the factory.
The tips of the leaves wither
Why do the tips of the leaves dry? A similar problem affects almost all young adeniums in the offseason. The tips of the lower leaves dry up while new foliage emerges at the top. This is how the plant responds to temperature changes. In this situation, it is recommended to increase the temperature of the content.
turns yellow
Why do leaves turn yellow? There can be two reasons for this phenomenon:
falls off
It happens that adenium does not bloom and sheds leaves. If this happens in the fall and the number of dried and fallen leaves is small, then this is the norm for adenium. If this happens before the start of the dormant period, there may be several reasons for dropping leaves:
- The plant was planted in unsuitable soil. The problem is solved by transplantation.
- Incorrect pruning of the plant. When trimming, you need to focus on the size of the caudex. The procedure is only valid if it is wide enough (how to properly form a caudex in adenium and what to do if it dries and fades, you can read in, and we talked about how and when to cut adenium at home).
- The plant may lack moisture. The solution will be competent regulation of irrigation.
- Foliage may fall off if the adenium was abruptly transferred from a warm room to a cold one, or if it stood for some time in a draft.
It loses its variability
Why does the variability disappear on the leaves? If adenium begins to grow completely green leaves, there may be four reasons:
- Lack of lighting.
- General weakness of the plant.
- Excess nitrogen supplements.
- Degeneration (return from mutation to original form).
For the first three reasons, it is enough to adjust . In the case of the last problem, nothing can be changed. The mutation process may, on the contrary, intensify and the plant will begin to grow exclusively white leaves. This is dangerous for the flower and can lead to its death. But the appearance of just a few white leaves should not cause concern. Normally, this happens after pruning or in the spring and summer. By autumn, the leaves will turn green.
round spots
The reason for this type of adenium disease lies in the high humidity of the air. The disease is fungal and after the leaves it attacks the caudex of the plant. The solution would be preventive treatment with fungicides twice a season.
burns
If the humidity of the soil and air is very high, adenium can get a bacterial burn. Outwardly, it is very similar to the sun, but the methods of struggle are to collect the affected leaves, treat with an antiseptic, and take measures to improve the soil.
The improvement of the soil includes its treatment with special bactericidal agents.
Pests
Mealybug
An insect that lives in leaf axils. It affects young shoots, foliage and buds. Signs of damage are:
- White, waxy, cottony coating.
- Sugar discharge in case of prolonged illness.
Adenium stops growing and begins to experience problems with flowering. Severe damage leads to death.
Fighting methods:
- If the disease is in the initial stage, the plant can be treated with soapy water, cleaning the worms and their secretions. In the future, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments with a weak soapy or alcohol solution.
- Spray plants with special preparations in accordance with the instructions. Repeat the treatment weekly.
IMPORTANT! The older the larvae, the more difficult it will be to rehabilitate the plant.
bedbugs
Sucking insects that appear on adenium seed pods and seriously damage them. In this case, treatment with special preparations helps. A mustard solution may also help. Dissolve 100 grams of dry powder in ten liters and spray the plant damaged by pests every three days.
caterpillars
May appear on adenium due to transfer from other plants. This often happens when keeping a flower outdoors in the summer.
Small caterpillars or their larvae are light green in color and are often difficult to distinguish from the foliage of the plant. The insect eats holes in the leaves, the growth of adenium slows down.
As a control measure, it is necessary to manually collect all caterpillars from the flower and destroy them, and treat heavily affected areas with insecticides.
Aphid
A sign of damage are twisting leaves. When such a symptom appears, the reverse side of the leaves should be examined. The aphids are very noticeable. Its larvae look like gray-green insects.
Destroyed easily. It is enough to carry out one treatment with any specialized preparation.
coccidia
Common name for scale insects, false scale insects and scale insects. Sucking insects that damage the leaves and shoots of plants. Coccids secrete thick, sticky substances covered with a black, sooty coating. It is better to deal with them at the stage of larvae.
Adult insects are covered with "shields" and are more resistant to various kinds of drugs. Most often, adenium suffers from a root worm, as the pest prefers dry, breathable soils.
Reference! The root bug feeds on the juice from the roots, injecting into them a substance that negatively affects the plant. In the affected adenium, the leaves fade, and the roots become covered with a white coating.
The following measures can save the flower:
- Soil treatment with special preparations (Dantop, Mospilian, Aktara). The most effective method, since the mealybug larvae are covered with a hard-to-penetrate cocoon, which can only be destroyed by chemicals.
- Root hot bath:
- Place adenium in hot (+55 degrees) water and hold for 15-20 minutes. Then dry for 20 hours.
- Remove the flower from the pot along with the earthy clod.
- Clean the roots from the ground and rinse thoroughly.
- Cut off all affected parts of the root system.
- Wash the roots with insecticide.
- Plant in a new pot and fresh substrate.
A photo
And so the pests look in the photo:
Diseases and other problems
The flower does not grow
Why the flower does not grow and what to do about it? Most often this happens in low light during the dormant period. You can fix the problem by adjusting the care:
- organize the plant a long daylight hours - 12-14 hours;
- eliminate the absence of drafts;
- maintain looseness of the soil;
- adenium pot should not be too spacious.
Why does it drop buds?
This is caused by stress (most often a cold snap), associated with a change in the conditions of detention in the process of budding.
You should take maximum care of the plant during the period of budding.
We talked about how to make adenium bloom at home, in.
rots
Decay of adenium is promoted by low temperature and high humidity. The top of the plant begins to dry and the leaves fall off. For prevention, watering should be limited in winter and in cloudy weather.
What to do if the flower is rotten? The following steps will help get rid of rot:
Recommendation! The minimum allowable temperature for indoor maintenance of adenium is +10 degrees. It should also be borne in mind that when pruning, the flower releases poisonous juice. It should be blotted with a napkin, and all work with the plant should be carried out with gloves.
Branches dry up
Due to the slow movement of the juice. Having found a similar phenomenon on adenium, the main thing is not to cut off the dried areas - this will not help. A treatment option would be to completely smear the plant with gruel from tetracycline with foundationazole and irrigate with stimulants. Adenium should be in bright sun.
A healthy adenium pleases the eye with abundant flowering, bright foliage and a strong trunk. This flower reacts with gratitude even to minimal care, maintaining an excellent decorative appearance all year round.
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Why do buds and flowers fall?Very often we ask the question: “Why do buds or flowers fall”? Falling buds or flowers can be caused by dry air, poor lighting, excess nitrogen, or moving the plant from one place to another. Most often it can be a consequence of a lack of light and moisture, as well as exposure to cold air. Most houseplants are cold tolerant but not frost tolerant. A sudden drop in temperature in a warm room or dry cold causes many problems.
Consider the reasons for the fall of buds and flowers according to the most famous and common indoor flowers:
- Azalea - during flowering and budding, the plant cannot be moved from place to place, rotated (even the slightest change in the refraction of rays can lead to falling buds). Drafts and very high air temperatures in the summer also affect the fall of the buds.
- Adenium - buds can drop due to the presence of pests on it, turning the plant during flowering relative to light, irregular watering. With a lack of lighting, it can drop flowers without opening them.
- Achimenez - with the appearance of the first buds, you need to apply mineral fertilizer once every 2 weeks. And you also need an annual spring transplant into nutrient soil.
- Balsam - by dropping buds, it reacts, most likely, to a short-term overdrying of the substrate. This can also be from a lack of nutrition, from temperature changes, from too many buds - the plant cannot feed everything and sheds some of them - this is called self-regulation, and from many other reasons. If the buds do not bloom, there may be several reasons: lack of light, lack of nutrition, excess nutrition, too low temperature, drying out of the soil, dry air or transplant.
- Begonia - falling buds can be caused by water getting on them, dry air or insufficient watering.
- Gardenia - during the formation of buds and flowers, the plant does not tolerate temperature fluctuations. Irregular watering causes dropping of buds. Sometimes there is a massive fall of the buds, which depends on the dryness of the air, the drying of the soil clod in the pot, and the temperature drop is less than 16 degrees. Buds may not open during long periods of cloudy weather. During the period of budding and flowering, it is undesirable to turn the plant.
- Hibiscus (Chinese rose) - during budding and flowering, the hibiscus is not rearranged, moved or rotated, as this will cause the buds or flowers to fall off.- Gloxinia (sinninginia) - there can be several reasons for the fall of buds. When the tuber is healthy, good large leaves, the buds fall off from lack of nutrition for them. Give a complex mineral supplement containing trace elements (“Flower”, Sudarushka or others). Spray around the air with water, but not flowers and leaves. Do not allow the earthen clod to dry out and drafts. Hybrid Gloxinia are more demanding on the temperature regime (it should not be below 17 ° C).
- Zygocactus (Decembrist, Schlumberger) - the plant sheds buds or parts of segments on the leaves at too low a temperature, insufficient watering, rearranging to a new location, excess fertilizer, pests or diseases, and it is also necessary to check the roots.
- Camellia - at high temperatures there is a risk of falling buds. And also, when plants in the budding phase are moved to another place (a change in the light regime affects).
- Medinilla - With a lack of light, the medinilla may not bloom or shed flowers. During flowering or budding, you can not turn or rearrange the pot.- Orchid - sometimes sheds buds. There can be many reasons for this behavior. Check: have you flooded or dried out the roots? Are you getting too carried away with fertilizers? Did the room smoke? Was there a sharp change in temperature, cold air from somewhere? Is it hot in the room?
- Roses - do not tolerate dry air and high temperatures, especially in winter, because of this the leaves become smaller, dry and crumble, buds do not form or bloom is short.
- Fuchsia - violation of the watering regime, insufficient lighting, too warm air or moving the flowerpot.
Adenium grows in a pot with a diameter of 20 cm. Soil mixture: humus, peat, black soil, vermiculite. Watering - as the earthen coma dries out. It is on the south window.
Picks up buds, but they turn black and dry out. Help, please, advice. It is good that the flower is on the southern windowsill - it has enough light for flowering. In many other plants, the buds often dry out due to low humidity and dry air, but it’s not for nothing that adenium is called the “desert rose”, I think it’s not about humidity.
In my opinion, the plant is planted in a too nutritious mixture. Peat, humus, black soil - components rich in organic matter. For adenium, this is too much. With such a soil mixture, the irrigation regime may be disturbed. The soil compacts, becomes impermeable, as a result, the roots of the plant suffer.
I advise you to transplant the flower (preferably in spring) into a mixture of leafy soil, vermiculite and fine expanded clay. I usually use succulent soil, vermiculite and fine expanded clay.
When transplanting, pay attention to the condition of the roots. In such a light, breathable mixture, adenium will have to be watered frequently. In the summer heat - about every other day. And, of course, for abundant flowering, it is necessary to give the plant a winter rest. In addition, as I noticed from personal experience, adenium can also drop buds due to the presence of pests on it, turning the plant during flowering relative to light, and irregular watering.
The age of the plant should also be taken into account. I had a 2.5-year-old seedling that dropped buds for two summers in a row. Flowers bloomed only from the third time. I think the point was that he simply did not have enough strength to bloom. Additional questions immediately arise. When was it: summer, autumn?
How long did adenium grow in an apartment? Was there a sharp change in the conditions of detention? If adenium grows on a well-lit window at temperatures above +25 degrees, and is going to bloom, then it needs nutrients and timely watering. Especially in the summer. If the plant is under-watered, it may start dropping buds.
If the soil, on the contrary, is too wet, not only the buds, but also the leaves will begin to crumble. The same will happen with a sharp drop in air temperature and drafts. However, I am more inclined to believe that the room has dry air, heat, and watering is insufficient and without fertilizers.
In general, watering adenium should be approached very carefully. It directly depends on the composition of the soil. Maybe there is a lot of peat in the composition of the soil mixture, and the earth dries out quickly?
Then, if there are no pests, rots on the plant, the caudex is dense, without soft areas, the leaves do not turn yellow and do not crumble and outwardly the adenium looks healthy - water more often, but little by little, adding a small amount of fertilizer to the water. But only if the plant is going to bloom.
With a lack of lighting, adenium can also shed flowers without opening them.
If the adenium was bought already with buds and transplanted into a new soil, it can also drop buds from a sharp change in the conditions of detention, but with good lighting it adapts rather quickly.
If you bought a plant in the fall, you need to transplant it into fresh soil, remove the buds, cut off the shoots by 1/3 and water very moderately at first, allowing the soil to dry out.
It is necessary to remove flowers in order for the plant to gain strength and adapt to new conditions. Since in the fall without additional lighting it is difficult to achieve full-fledged summer flowering.
Florists adore succulents because of two features: adenium blooms with beautiful funnel-shaped gramophones, simple or double in many cultivars, thanks to which the plant is often called the “desert rose”, and also because of the caudex, a characteristic thickening at the base of the stem. Having replenished his home collection with an exotic succulent, the owner of the plant is often puzzled - why does the adenium not bloom?
It seems to be according to all the recommendations that are gleaned on the Internet from experienced adenium growers, and the conditions of detention meet the requirements, but the plant does not form buds. Having carefully examined the succulent, one can understand by appearance that something is happening to the flower that does not correspond to a healthy state - a disease or an attack by pests. Why doesn’t a succulent, which seems to be absolutely safe at first glance, not bloom? Having got to the bottom of the true cause and eliminated the moments of care that are inappropriate for the plant, you can admire wonderful flowers for several months and twice a year.
A mature plant usually blooms in spring, starting to form buds in late March - early April. The second time it blooms the petals already less abundantly in the fall - in early September. Adults are specimens that have reached a certain age characteristic of a particular species or variety.
Plants usually bloom earlier than seedlings, which first open buds in the 3rd or 4th year after sowing, although in some varieties flowers, albeit not as massive as in adults, open already in the second season. However, a non-flowering young succulent, which is more than 4-5 years old, already causes a well-founded concern for the grower. Therefore, it is necessary to look for the reason for the refusal to bloom in something else, for example, in placement.
Conditions necessary for flowering adenium
The succulent is very photophilous, for its successful cultivation it is necessary to provide a southern or southwestern location. Moreover, he does not really like his neighbors, so it is better not to have other plants in the immediate vicinity of him. In principle, they cannot be the main reason why adenium does not bloom at home, but attentive flower growers note an abundance of bud formation in succulents after moving partners on the windowsill to another place.
Attention! Adenium can drop buds if, at the time of their formation, the plant is moved to another place with different lighting conditions, or even simply rotated around its axis, substituting the reverse side of the flower for the light source.
During the period of bud formation, other factors of succulent content are also important. In conditions of high humidity and temperature, the buds rot inside, crumble, and adenium does not bloom. Therefore, low humidity is necessary for blooming flowers, but the thermometer in the room where adenium is grown should not be less than 18–20 degrees Celsius.
The role of flower capacity in the flowering of adenium
Adenium will not bloom until its root system completely entangles the entire earthen ball with its roots - many flower growers, even beginners, know this. It turns out that during transplantation, a new flower container should be selected in such a way that its diameter is only 2–3 cm larger than the circumference of the previous vessel in which the succulent grew before transplantation.
However, the plant does not like tightness. In a small vessel, flowering is less abundant than in a pot, the size of which corresponds to the size of the root system. Some flower growers practice growing seedlings several in one container. Even having reached a fully mature flowering age, such plants refuse to open their gramophones until they are transplanted into separate pots.
Can the soil mixture be the reason for the refusal to bloom
Soil composition also plays a role in flowering. In nature, the succulent grows on poor sandy or stony soils of the Arabian and North African deserts, which means that at home it requires the same soil composition. In the soil enriched with humus, the plant develops perfectly, intensively increases its green mass, but, unfortunately, often refuses to bloom.
Adenium grower during transplantation, making up the substrate for the succulent, must remember that the plant will feel comfortable in loose, breathable soils with a minimum amount of organic matter. Therefore, although the soil mixture cannot be a pronounced direct reason for the absence of buds, it is quite capable of influencing the process of their formation.
Errors in care, leading to a lack of flowering
The reasons leading to the absence of adenium flowering include care errors - non-observance of the dormant period, as well as an obligatory component of the succulent content - crown pruning.
Too much nitrogen fertilizer
Care errors primarily include overfeeding with fertilizers containing a high percentage of nitrogen. The plant "fattens", builds up a lush aerial part to the detriment of the formation of buds. The flower grower should remember this property of adenium and give preference to those fertilizers for succulents, which contain a minimum of nitrogen.
Improper care during the winter dormancy period
The reason for the refusal to bloom is also non-observance of the dormant period. For adenium, it comes with a reduction in daylight hours, and caring for a flower at this time requires a reduction in watering, lack of fertilizers, a decrease in room temperature to 15 degrees, preferably not higher than this indicator, but not less than 12 degrees. In the event that the grower does not comply with these conditions, he may not wait for the spring flowering of the plant.
However, some adenium growers believe that the flower needs stimulation of flowering, which consists in maintaining a low temperature and no watering. Often, a plant recovers from such stress for a long time, sheds foliage, or looks weakened for a long time with drooping leaves and. You can make adenium bloom at home by competently observing all the rules for caring for a flower that is at rest.
Pruning is not a mistake, but too drastic is the reason
Pruning, as an essential element of adenium care, can also be the reason why the plant does not bloom at the right time, if it is done radically, “under the stump”. Adenium growers remember that a friendly flowering of a plant can only be achieved on young pagons of the current season. If there are few of them, accordingly, few flowers are formed, therefore, at the beginning of spring, to stimulate the formation of more buds, the succulent is cut off or pinched off the tops.
However, if there is a need, as a result of which most of the crown is removed, flowering will have to be sacrificed. A similar situation arises when pruning the root system during the formation of the caudex. Until the plant recovers from all the manipulations and does not grow new roots and a young crown, it either blooms poorly or does not form buds at all in the near future after pruning.
Diseases and pests of adenium - a common reason for refusing to bloom
Often, during the dormant period, the grower violates the watering regimen of the plant, moistening it too abundantly with a relatively cool content of adenium. As a result, rotting of the root system and caudex. The plant looks tired, weakened, the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off, we are not even talking about flowering at all, the diseased succulent certainly does not have enough strength to form buds.
In such cases, you should save the flower as soon as possible, because if the process rises higher along the stem from the rotten caudex, it is easy to miss the moment when you can still cut off the top and root at least a small apical cutting or it on a healthy seedling. With valuable varietal specimens, delay and loss of time proves to be a threat to lose a rare plant.
The only salvation is to detect rotting as soon as possible and take all necessary measures to eliminate it: cut off the damaged part of the succulent, treat the remaining part with antibacterial agents, dry it and plant it in a fresh substrate, maintaining a very gentle irrigation regime in the future.
Once in the field of action of pests - mealybugs and spider mites, adenium weakens and is also unable to prepare for flowering. During the inspection of the plant, special attention should be paid to the underside of the foliage - mites and their larvae often hide there. Scales are easy to detect by the presence of characteristic cotton balls in the axils of the leaves.
Against spider mites, treatment with acaricides is used, and worms are disposed of with the help of systemic insecticides, not forgetting to shed the soil, because some types of worms lay eggs not only on the plant, but also arrange oviposition between the roots. Having got rid of pests, you should not arrange flowering stimulation for the plant, it is better to give it the opportunity to rest and recover from the invasion of parasites.
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