Remember!
1. Chrysanthemums are relatively drought-resistant.
2. Chrysanthemums are photophilous (the bushes will be less lush in the shade).
3. Chrysanthemums are cold-resistant, they need shelter for the winter.
4. Chrysanthemums need proper pinching.
Landing
Chrysanthemums are planted and transplanted both in spring and autumn. In the spring - when the threat of night frosts has passed. In autumn, no later than 2-3 weeks before the onset of stable frosts. Half a bucket of humus or compost, or biohumus is brought into each landing hole.
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When planting, seedlings do not deepen. After planting, be sure to water. The minimum landing pattern is 30×30. Otherwise, the bushes will not be lush and will be too tall. During summer season until the moment of flowering, do not forget about top dressing, water every two weeks with complex fertilizer.
Formation of chrysanthemums (pinching)
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are grown in one or three stems with one flower on each of them.
For large-flowered chrysanthemums, it is very important to pinch in time. As soon as the young chrysanthemum releases the 8th leaf, pinch the crown. Then the plant will release several new shoots. Of these, 2-3 of the strongest are left, and the rest are removed. By the way, the removed extra cuttings of chrysanthemums can be rooted by cuttings.
Large-flowered chrysanthemums stepchild, removing periodically appearing side shoots, otherwise the flowers will be small.
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This article will focus on the "flower of the samurai" - the chrysanthemum. We will talk about how to care for a chrysanthemum, what kind of soil it likes and how often you need to water the plant. Consider possible pests and teach how to deal with them. We will tell you how to achieve luxurious flowering of chrysanthemums.
Did you know? Chrysanthemum is depicted on coins and the state emblem of Japan. This flower is revered in the country so much that one of the highest awards is called the “Order of the Chrysanthemum”.
Conditions for growing chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemum belongs to the genus of annuals and perennials. herbaceous plants, which includes 29 species. In nature, the flower grows in the temperate and northern zone of Asia.
When growing chrysanthemum, you need to follow the rules so that the plant blooms and has a healthy appearance.
The soil
To begin with, consider what kind of land is needed for chrysanthemums.
Chrysanthemum is demanding on the soil, so the substrate must be selected special. The soil should be nutritious, loose and have good drainage properties. Thus, if you have heavy clay soils, then before planting a flower, you need to cultivate and apply a sufficient amount of organic fertilizers. Otherwise, the chrysanthemum will not grow well and will not accumulate enough energy to endure the winter.
Did you know? Chrysanthemum is translated from Greek as "golden", as many species have yellow flowers.
Lighting and air humidity
Chrysanthemum is a flower of short daylight hours. Plant the plant so that at noon its petals do not burn the sun. The plant is photophilous, but the light should be diffused. If the flower is grown at home, then the flowerpot should be placed on the east or west side. Thus, the plant receives the necessary light and does not "burn out".
Humidity should be around 40-50%. Therefore, it needs spraying only in summer or in winter (if the flower is kept in the house).
Watering and feeding chrysanthemums
We turn to watering and feeding the plant.
Chrysanthemum, although drought resistant, should not be taken as a rule. The flower needs to be watered often, but you should not moisten the ground too much so that the roots are not affected by rot. Moisturize the soil when dry upper layer soil.
Important! When growing at home, you do not need to install a tray and add water there.
Chrysanthemums are very fond of additional top dressing. The plant grows well on soils rich in minerals and humus, but the supply of nutrients is not eternal, so it is necessary and important to apply fertilizers. The plant loves organic fertilizers in the form of humus and compost. The plant also needs peat for normal growth and development.
Feeding stages
- First stage- after landing in the ground. Use organic matter, to which superphosphate is added.
- Second phase- 2 weeks after the growing season. The third top dressing is applied during the formation of buds (a mixture is introduced in which 25 g of phosphorus and 45 g of potassium).
Fertilizers for chrysanthemums.
Nitrogen-potassium. They are introduced under small-flowered plants. Such fertilizers should contain more potassium than nitrogen (use a mixture in which 25 g of nitrogen, 25 g of phosphorus and 45 g of potassium).
Important! With excessive saturation of the soil with nitrogen, the plant stretches, and the buds lose color and become faded.
Nitrogen. Used for tall chrysanthemums with large flowers. In this case, the dose of nitrogen in fertilizers is increased (50 g of nitrogen, 25 g of phosphorus and 25 g of potassium). The lack of nitrogenous fertilizers leads to the fact that the plant begins to wither, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, the flowers become smaller. The lack of nitrogen is determined by the pallor of the leaves (in a healthy flower, the color is dark green).
Phosphorus. This element is necessary both during flowering and during the growing season. Phosphorus is especially important for large plants.
Important! A large dose of phosphorus with a small dose of nitrogen increases the safety of flowers in a bouquet.
Nuances of care
Each plant needs at least minimal care. Chrysanthemum also requires attention, which we will tell you about.
Transfer
Since the chrysanthemum is an open ground plant, it needs frequent transplants, which are carried out at least once every 3 years.
Did you know? In China, there is a city that is named after a flower - Chu Xien. In this country, the chrysanthemum is considered a symbol of autumn and is included in the group of “four nobles”.
Let's start with autumn transplant plants. Transplanting into a pot is carried out during flowering, when the temperature drops below zero at night. The new "house" is filled with nutrient soil, gravel or stones are placed at the bottom of the pot for good drainage.
Place on winter period choose cool (+3 ˚С would be the ideal temperature), with low lighting. When the chrysanthemum fades, you need to cut the flower, leaving about 15 cm of the stem, cover with a paper bag and leave it until spring.
Important! When transplanting, you need to be careful with the roots. The slightest damage is detrimental to the chrysanthemum.
Spring transplantation is carried out after warming, when the temperature does not drop below zero at night. To begin with, the bag is removed from the flowerpot so that new sprouts appear. When the chrysanthemum "wakes up", it can be planted in open ground.
Trimming and pinching
For a plant, pruning and pinching are very important, since after these actions, the formation of new lateral shoots occurs and the development of the root system improves.
Important! Small-flowered varieties of chrysanthemums are only pinched. Cropping is not applied.
Pinching and pruning are techniques during which the upper part of the flower shoot is cut off. The difference between pinching and trimming is the size of the top that is cut off. In order to get a lush bush, you need to prune the chrysanthemum in the spring. Pruning is also carried out if new cuttings are needed. If cuttings are not required, pinch.
Let's start with pinching. Large-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched when the plant reaches a height of 15 cm. Pinching consists in removing the top bud. Of all the shoots, 2-3 are left, in which all side shoots and buds are removed, except for the apical one. 
Chrysanthemum bud formation scheme: 1 - spring bud; 2 - the first crown; 3 - second crown; 4 - third crown
Pinching small-flowered plants consists in the formation of a well-developed crown with large quantity shoots. To do this, trim the shoot over the 5th sheet. From the remaining buds, shoots appear, which are pinched over the 8th leaf. After pinching, we get a plant with lush crown, which gives about 30 inflorescences.
Important! After the first pinching, you need to water the plant with a solution of fertilizers that contain nitrogen.
Chrysanthemum cutting. Most modern chrysanthemum hybrids do not need pruning buds, however general rule is: than fewer buds- even bigger flowers. If you want to get a lush inflorescence of large diameter, you need to cut off all the side shoots and buds, leaving one main one.
Wintering
If you do not transplant chrysanthemum into a pot for the winter, then you should take care of sheltering the plant. Let's write out the "instruction" of preparation.
Preparation of the plant for winter begins in early September. The plant is fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which increase the frost resistance of the flower. After top dressing, dry branches are cut and checked for diseases (if the flower is sick, we are engaged in treatment, and only then we continue the transplant). After processing and checking, the chrysanthemum is spudded and the soil around the plant is leveled. Before planting chrysanthemums before winter, you need to shorten the stem so that no more than 10 cm remains.
The plant has been prepared, now it is worth building a shelter. To do this, bricks are placed around the bush, and boards are placed on top of them. Such a structure will protect the plant from freezing and will not allow it to "suffocate". In this case, it is important to observe the following rules: do not cover chrysanthemums until severe frosts, as they can rot from an excess of moisture; shelter should not be very heavy and dense.
Another option (more complex in terms of execution) involves the following: dig a trench 50 cm deep and 0.7 m wide; dig up the chrysanthemum bushes (save the root ball) and place them in the trench. From above you need to fill everything with dry leaves or straw. When frosts begin, you need to cover the trench with metal or slate leaves and cover it with earth on top (the layer should be about 12-15 cm).
Important! The disadvantage of the second method is the inability to check the bushes. They may wake up earlier and sprout sprouts that will begin to stretch towards the light. In this case, the plant will spend a lot of energy and may die.
Chrysanthemum propagation
Chrysanthemum can be propagated in three ways:
- cuttings,
- dividing the bush,
- seeds.
cuttings
The best option for cuttings of chrysanthemums is the period from March to the end of May. Early varieties cuttings are taken in March or April, later - in April or May. During intensive flower growth, it is often watered and fertilized every 2 weeks. Cuttings are broken out (less often cut) from shoots that have at least 4 leaves (the cutting itself should also have 3-4 leaves). 
Important! After pruning plants, the tool must be decontaminated to prevent the transfer of diseases.
On the cut cutting, the most bottom sheet, others retain. The shoot is planted in a substrate that "breathes" and allows moisture to pass through. To do this, use peat, perlite or a mix of soddy land, peat and sand (in equal parts). The soil layer must be at least 10 cm.
Moisturize before planting. Cuttings are planted to a depth of 1.5 cm so that future roots receive maximum nutrients. When planting, you need to maintain the temperature around 17 ˚С (more heat can lead to rotting of the shoot). Do not forget about lighting, which is very important for photosynthesis. At night for additional illumination use 100 watt bulbs.
In the first week after planting, you need to regularly moisten the soil and air. Watering is carried out every 2 days.
The rooting period of the cutting in January-March is 24-25 days, in April-May - about 18 days.
After rooting, chrysanthemum plants are fed 2 times a week with full mineral fertilizers.
Did you know? Chrysanthemum tea is very popular in Asia. Tea from this flower has healing properties and protects the body from cardiovascular diseases.
The division of the bush
Chrysanthemums can be propagated by dividing the bush. To do this, the plant is dug up immediately after flowering and the roots are thoroughly washed. If the bush is very high, it should be cut so that the flower does not lack moisture (the longer the shoot, the more it evaporates). 
The central lignified shoots are also removed. Next, a part is broken out from the peripheral part (the knife can not be used) with developed kidneys and is used for planting.
Before planting, you need to dig a hole of the same depth on which the mother bush “sat”. After planting, the young plant is watered abundantly.
seeds
We turn to the cultivation of chrysanthemums from seeds at home. This method can be used to grow both annuals and perennials.
You can sow seeds directly into the ground, or you can - in a pot. When sowing in open ground, the seeds are placed in the holes (the distance between the holes is 25 cm) 2-3 pieces, watered warm water and sprinkle with earth. A week after sowing, you need to feed the plant with highly diluted liquid fertilizer. When young chrysanthemums grow up to 10 cm in height, it is worth leaving the strongest one out of 2-3 plants. Landing in open ground is carried out in the month of May.
The disadvantage of landing in open ground is the time of flowering of chrysanthemum, which will occur only at the end of August.
When sowing in a pot, the start of "work" is postponed to the end of February. To do this, take shallow boxes, put drainage in the form of gravel at the bottom and cover it with earth (soil + peat + humus in equal amounts). When sowing perennial chrysanthemums, the seeds are left on the surface, annuals are placed at a depth of 5 mm.
After that, the earth is sprayed with water, covered with glass or film and put in a warm place (+ 24-25 ˚С). Periodically, crops need to be checked, sprayed with warm water and ventilated. Young plants germinate 14 days after planting.
If the seedlings have risen densely, then after the appearance of 3-4 "real" leaves, they are transplanted into cups or other, more capacious containers.
Important! Before transplanting, it is necessary to moisten the soil so as not to damage the young roots of plants.
Immediately after transplantation, the plants are sprayed with the Zircon preparation so that the chrysanthemum takes root better.
After the most difficult stage, caring for young plants comes down to maintaining the temperature at 16-18 ˚С.
Seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June.
This completes seed propagation. After transplanting into open ground, the conditions of care are the same as for an adult plant.
Major pests and how to deal with them
Aphids are very common on chrysanthemum, so this is the first pest on our list that we will help you deal with.
Aphids not only deprive the plant of strength, but are also a carrier of diseases, so it must be dealt with the sooner the better.
Folk methods control offer a huge number of "drugs" to combat aphids. Here are the most popular:
- a decoction of dry onion leaves (used at any time chilled);
- garlic tincture (chopped garlic is infused for 2 hours; the infusion is diluted with water and the plant is sprayed every 3-4 hours);
If folk methods do not suit you, then you can use the following drugs:
Another unpleasant "guest" for your flower. You can only see it with a magnifying glass, but the small cobwebs on the plant can also be seen with the naked eye. 
These mites, like aphids, suck out plant juices. They bite through the cells and feed on the nutrients of the flower. At severe defeat leaves lose color and dry up.
Important! The greatest harm spider mites apply in dry and hot weather.
Consider pest control methods.
- ultraviolet light. The tick does not tolerate ultraviolet light, so once a week is enough, using home ultraviolet lamp, illuminate the flower for 2-3 minutes.
- Alcohol processing. The whole plant is wiped with 96% alcohol, applying a small layer of solution with cotton wool. The treatment is repeated in a week.
Folk methods of dealing with ticks:
- tincture of garlic (500 g of chopped garlic is poured into 3 liters of water and infused for 5 days in a dark place; 60 ml of the infusion is diluted in 10 liters of water and 50 g of soap is added);
- chamomile tincture (1 kg of dry chopped chamomile is poured into 10 l hot water and insist 14 hours; the solution is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and soap is added);
- tincture of dandelion officinalis (0.5 kg of fresh leaves are infused for 2-4 hours in water at 40 ° C; treatment is carried out after the leaves bloom and after flowering).
Remember! The tick can return to the plant, so after processing the chrysanthemum, you need to disinfect everything within a radius of 1 sq. m from the flower.
These are small worms that cannot be seen with the naked eye. After being hit by a nematode, black dead tissues appear on the plant in the form of spots, which are located between the veins of the leaf. 
There are some varieties of chrysanthemums that are resistant to nematode damage:
- Sunflower,
- Kathy Ernst,
- Bergatet.
To rid the plant of the nematode, you need to carry out heat treatment plants with warm water 45 ˚С. You also need to remove the affected parts of the plant mechanically.
If the previous measures did not help, then, unfortunately, the plant must be destroyed along with the land in which it grew.
Important! When planting new plants, land plots where plant damage by nematodes was observed should be avoided.
Diseases of chrysanthemums, their treatment
Gray rot is a fungus. When a flower is infected, brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow to the edges of the leaf. From the leaves, rot can “migrate” to the stem, forming light brown spots on it.
Eventually, the flower turns into a wet brown mass and dies. All affected parts of the plant are covered with a dense gray coating of the fungus.
The main reason for the development of the fungus is high humidity air and soil. Rot most often develops in spring and autumn on cuts and "wounds" of the plant.
To get rid of gray rot, use the following fungicides:
- "Ronilan FL 0.15%",
- "Rovral 50 SP 0.15%",
- "Sumilex 50 NP 0.1%",
- "Fundazol 50 SP 0.1%".
powdery mildew infects the plant in late July - August. This happens due to the accumulation of dew on the leaves, when using a large number nitrogen fertilizers or lack of potassium.
To get rid of the disease, you need:
- provide regular watering,
- ventilation and good plant lighting.
- remove diseased and dried leaves from the plant.
You can also use the following drugs:
- "Anvil 5 SC 0.06%",
- Bayleton 25 SP 0.05%,
- "Triadimefon 25 SP 0.05%",
- "Sistan 12 EC 0.03%".
Important! Different varieties of chrysanthemums show different sensitivity to chemicals, so a test spraying of a small area should be carried out before the plant is completely treated.
A microscopic fungus that appears as small yellowish-green spots on the leaves. Gradually, the color of the leaves changes to yellow with black dry spots, then dies off.
The fungus twists the leaves down, causing the chrysanthemum to change its appearance.
To get rid of the disease, you need to feed the plant with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The bush should be sprayed with fungicides (Fundazol or 1% colloidal sulfur). All affected leaves are cut off and burned outside the site.
When root cancer is affected, growths form on the plant (very similar to tumors in animals). The causative agent of the disease lives in the soil. When the chrysanthemum is damaged, the cancer grows rapidly and destroys the plant. There is no cure for this disease, so the bush is dug up and burned.
Important! It is necessary to disinfect the soil after the affected chrysanthemum before planting other plants.
To prevent your plant from getting cancer, you need to carry out prevention. It is necessary to dig up the soil in the fall and remove all plant debris from the site. Also make sure to improve drainage.
Spotting, or chrysanthemum septoria, appears as pale patches on the leaves. Orange spots appear on the reverse side of the leaf. Septoria is also caused by microscopic fungi that are dangerous to the plant. 
To get rid of the disease, you need to remove and burn the affected leaves, spray with fungicides:
- "Polycarbacin (30-40 g / 10 l)",
- "Homecin (40 g / 10 l)",
- "Kuprozan (50 g / 10 l)".
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The main autumn flowers are chrysanthemums, planting and care in open ground for these flowers are not particularly difficult, but require compliance with a number of conditions when growing, both in spring and autumn. Do not break the rules if you want to plant a flower from a bouquet or root a shoot, and to propagate a plant in the fall, check out the main points. If you don’t know how to form a beautiful bush with a ball, then remember that you need pinching and pruning for the winter, or try to grow a special variety that will need only a single pinching ...
Methods and timing of reproduction of chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums are annuals - they are grown annually from seeds, and perennials - they can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, queen cells or dividing the bush. Chrysanthemums are planted in spring and autumn, each season has its own advantages:
Seeds are sown in open ground in May, and when the seedlings grow by 10 cm, they are pinched. Chrysanthemums are blooming in autumn
Cuttings are a very popular way of propagating chrysanthemums. You can grow a bush by cutting off a cutting even from a bouquet. How to root a chrysanthemum shoot? A shoot about 6 cm long is rooted in a soil consisting of sand and peat. The box covered with glass is kept in a cool place, not higher than +15°С. When the roots appear, the plants are seated in separate pots and then, with the end of frost, in open ground. If you purchased a cutting of the desired variety in the fall, do not plant it in the ground, but root it in a container and leave it in a cool room until spring
A mother liquor is an overwintered chrysanthemum rhizome from which shoots will sprout, it can be purchased and planted in early spring
The division of the bush is the only way to plant chrysanthemums in the autumn, in which the plant is carefully dug up, the roots of the mother bush with shoots are divided into several copies with secateurs and seated. This procedure is supposed to be carried out every two years to rejuvenate the plant.
Chrysanthemums, planting in spring and autumn
Please note that if you decide to grow chrysanthemums, planting and care in the open field differ in spring and autumn - during spring planting, mother liquors and cuttings take root better, but in autumn you can choose flowering bush and not be mistaken with his appearance.
In very frosty winters, choose Korean small-flowered hybrids of chrysanthemums, which are nicknamed oak - this species combines many varieties zoned in middle lane and Moscow region. Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums are tall - they grow up to a meter, and sometimes up to one and a half, but they are afraid of the cold and freeze easily.
For chrysanthemums choose a sunny, preferably elevated place. Flowers do not like stagnant moisture, so waterlogged soil is drained by adding a layer of large river sand. The soil is preferably slightly acidic or neutral, light and loose. Too dense - mixed with peat, humus or rotted compost.
Chrysanthemum plants are placed every 30-50 cm. A shallow hole is dug so that the shoots on the mother liquor or two-thirds of the cuttings are not covered with earth, when dividing the bush, this is about 40 cm. No more than 0.5 kg of humus or compost is added to the hole. If you overdo it with fertilizers, the flowers will be small, and only foliage will be lush. It is recommended to water the roots with a stimulant (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin), and then fill it with soil and compact it. cuttings after spring planting it is advisable to cover from the sun with spunbond for a couple of weeks.
At autumn planting the chrysanthemum bush must be watered abundantly, this will compact the soil, eliminating voids in it, due to which the roots can freeze. In addition, the flowers are cut and a third of the stems are left so that the nutrients go to the development of the root system.
Chrysanthemums, care - watering, top dressing, pruning, shelter
Chrysanthemum does not tolerate stagnant moisture, but loves watering - without water, the stems become stiff, the flowers become smaller. At the same time, the flower does not tolerate sprinkling, you need to water it under the root, preferably with rain or settled water. The earth after watering is loosened to avoid crusting.
In the spring, chrysanthemums need nitrogen fertilizing for rapid growth, it can be done 2-3 weeks after planting. In the second half of summer, with the beginning of budding of chrysanthemums, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to ensure lush flowering and strengthening plants before wintering. In autumn, you can feed the flowers a little with organic matter. Tall varieties are tied up, as their fragile stems can break.
The beginning of frosts is a signal that it is time to leave for the winter. The trunks of chrysanthemums are cut off in late autumn, leaving 10-centimeter stumps and insulated with sawdust or foliage. The most tender varieties are wrapped on top with a covering material and something flat is placed on top to protect it from moisture - for example, a plywood shield. Some growers dig up the roots and store them in a dark, cold cellar over the winter to make sure the variety is preserved.
How to create globular chrysanthemum bushes
For flowers such as chrysanthemums, planting and care in the open field is not all that is needed, and simple processing will allow you to create real masterpieces from them.
Chrysanthemums are cut and pinched after winter to get a beautiful spherical bush. There is a variety in which the bush itself grows in the form of a ball, without needing to be formed - this is a multiflora chrysanthemum, a low-growing bush up to 20 cm in height - when two pairs of leaves appear on the shoot, they pinch it, and then the ball forms itself.
Multiflora can be grown not only in a flower bed, but also in a pot. But after flowering above-ground part plants are cut and sent to rest - in a dark, cool place, for the whole winter. Periodically, dormant chrysanthemums are watered so that the roots do not dry out. In February, the first sprouts appear, which means that the plant has woken up, and it's time to get it out of the basement. If a globular chrysanthemum grows in a flower bed, the stems need to be cut to 10 cm and covered with sawdust and non-woven material for the winter.
Multiflora loves soil rich in fertilizers, when planting, add more humus to the hole and wood ash. If you grow it in a pot, you can prepare the soil with 30% humus and 20% sand, the remaining 50% is soddy land.
It is possible to form a ball from other types of chrysanthemums, in small- and medium-flowered ones, the main shoot is pinched when it reaches 10-12 cm, then the side shoots that have grown to the same length are cut off, after that they actively branch, pinching is done until buds appear.
In large-flowered species of chrysanthemums, stems 15 cm long are cut, in total one or two pinchings are carried out no later than June, in addition, they are stepchildren - from mid-July, shoots appearing from the axils of the leaves are removed daily, and starting from August - every three days, then you can get a spherical bush with large flowers with a diameter of up to 10 cm.
How to properly cut and pinch indoor chrysanthemums.
Pruning gives abundant flowering and promotes good growth plants. Pruning is done if you need to rejuvenate or shape beautiful crown, as well as for the sanitary needs of the plant.
Pinching helps to slow down the growth of the plant in height by pinching the tips of the shoots over the first pair of leaves. Pinching causes abundant branching of shoots and awakens lateral buds. Pinching can cause abundant flowering and branching of plants.
Chrysanthemums can be grown not only in the garden, but also at home, delighting yourself with beautiful flowers.
Indoor chrysanthemums are quite unpretentious and beautiful home plant. They love fresh air, coolness, moist, but not waterlogged, earth, they are happy to shower when sprayed from a spray bottle. Indoor chrysanthemums do not tolerate temperatures above + 15 ° C, so do not place the flower next to a heating radiator and try to shade it from bright sunlight by creating a light penumbra. The sun, for a small amount of time, is necessary for the chrysanthemum to open the buds.
In order for indoor chrysanthemums to form additional buds and bloom in a lush, lush color, it is necessary to take care of such an important procedure as pinching the shoots. Pinching the shoots will give not only a lush color, but will also allow you to form a thick beautiful bush.
Pinching of chrysanthemums is carried out if the peduncles do not have enough strength for the inflorescences to fully open, i.e. if the formed buds do not open. Then you need to remove some of the buds and stepsons so that the remaining inflorescences can open. When, after flowering, the inflorescences of room chrysanthemum begin to fade, they must be removed immediately, thus giving strength and the opportunity to increase the duration of flowering of the remaining buds.
Large-flowered indoor chrysanthemums are pinched 2-3 times per season, leaving 4-5 pairs of leaves. We do the first pinching in May-June, when the plant reaches 17-20 cm in height. We do the second pinching three weeks after the first. The third pinching is done, if necessary, 70 days before the chrysanthemum blooms. After pinching has been done, chrysanthemum bushes begin to grow very quickly.
Small-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched 1-2 times in order to form good plants bushy form.
If you notice that in the spring the chrysanthemum began to stretch strongly during the active growth phase, then you should prune the plant, pinch it in this case can be safely ignored.
Annual pruning of indoor chrysanthemums is carried out immediately after flowering. Cut the chrysanthemum to short stumps and put it in a cool place for the winter, for example, in the cellar. Store plants at a temperature of +2 to -3 degrees Celsius.
Korean chrysanthemum is a generalized name for a group of perennial small-flowered varieties of garden chrysanthemum. Its origin is hybrid. "Korean" is named because the first specimens (and it was a Siberian chrysanthemum) used for crossing were brought from Korea. Differs in relative frost resistance. It is grown in open ground everywhere. There are a lot of varieties of this chrysanthemum. They differ in terms of flowering, the height of the bushes, the structure and size of the inflorescences, and the color of the flowers. They are characterized by rapid growth.
Korean chrysanthemum - plant short day. The laying and formation of inflorescences occurs with a reduction in daylight hours. It is drought-resistant and photophilous. close occurrence ground water can lead to the death of the plant. For abundant flowering she needs five or more hours of sun daily.
If the Korean chrysanthemum is planted in the spring, then it is advisable to prepare the soil in the fall, apply organic fertilizers, and dig it up. Otherwise, when planting in each 20 cm hole, it is necessary to put humus or compost, filling it by a third, and then plant a rooted cutting (this is the best planting material). This procedure is carried out at the end of the frost.
For better lighting, it is advisable to plant chrysanthemums in a checkerboard pattern, leaving 40 cm between plants. If the cuttings were in pots, then they need to be transplanted with an earthen clod, without deepening, and watered.
At first, it is desirable to loosen the soil often, because at this time the root system and underground shoots grow, from which a bush will form. In the future, loosening must be stopped so that the young shoots are not damaged.
Korean chrysanthemum loves mulching, which protects against fungal diseases. For this purpose, pine needles, oat straw, chopped pine bark are excellent.
Without top dressing, it is difficult to grow chic bushes. At the beginning of cultivation, young plants need to be fed nitrogen fertilizers for building green mass, and then - phosphorus-potassium, for better flowering.
The formation of Korean chrysanthemum consists in removing buds that appear at the wrong time (in spring and early summer) and in shortening shoots that violate the shape of the bush. To achieve good branching, it is necessary to carry out 1-2 pinching (removing the tops of the shoots) with an interval of 30 days. If after the first pinching, which is carried out when 10 leaves grow, 7-12 shoots are formed, then the second pinching is no longer required. Otherwise, the tops of the grown lateral shoots are pinched over the 3-5th leaf.
Korean chrysanthemums bloom around September. Some varieties - earlier, others - later. Flowering lasts until frost, after which you need to cut off the entire aerial part, leave a small stump. When establishing frosty weather, it is necessary to insulate root system chrysanthemums. In the southern regions, it is enough just to sprinkle with earth. In colder regions, you still need to cover with spruce branches, cover with leaves.
In the spring, you need to remove the remnants of the stems, unscrew the central shoot completely, because it will no longer grow. The resumption of the bush will occur from underground side shoots. Korean chrysanthemum in one place can grow well for no more than three years. For the 3-4th year, the bush needs to be dug up and divided, throwing out the central part.
When it gets colder, a flowering bush can be dug up and transplanted into a large pot or bucket. Chrysanthemum at home will bloom for a long time, perhaps until the New Year. After flowering, the stems need to be cut and the pot placed in a cool place. In the spring, cuttings can be cut and rooted, and later planted in flower beds.
The autumn garden, in which the colors fade, evokes melancholy. Chrysanthemums are able to fill it with new tones. Plant these wonderful plants, they will delight bright colors and green foliage until frost
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Pinching and pinching chrysanthemums : In order to grow larger, well-developed flowers and inflorescences, it is necessary to pinch (pruning) and pinch. Let's consider these operations separately.
Pinching (cutting): You have planted a rooted cutting of a large-flowered chrysanthemum. Sunny weather and proper care (watering and fertilizing) for the plant will give its results - the chrysanthemum will begin to grow rapidly upwards. As soon as the plant reaches 20-25 cm in length (7-10 leaves), it is necessary to trim or pinch - remove the upper part of the stem. The difference between pinching and trimming is only in the size of the top that is separated. When pinching, only the very tip of the shoot is removed, and when pruning, the detachable part of the shoot used for rooting is at least 7-10 cm.
Cut when cutting upper part plants by 7-10 cm (3-4 leaves) if the plant has reached a height of 20 cm. If you need to pinch, then simply remove the top of the chrysanthemum growth. As a rule, pinch once:
1) plants of early varieties;
2) undersized varieties of chrysanthemums.
Large-flowered we also recommend pinching once. If you do not pinch this group, then the primary bud will give an inferior flower. Pinching (pruning) helps to retard plant growth, better development of the root system, the formation of side shoots and the removal of spring buds. Plucked cuttings of chrysanthemums can be rooted, and later planted in the garden.
Pasynkovanie.
After pinching the plant, the rapid growth of lateral shoots begins. Therefore, in order to properly form a bush, it is also necessary to pinch - the removal of side shoots and buds, the so-called. stepson. They consume nutrients, greatly delay the development of the main stem and bud. Usually stepchildren are removed as soon as they grow to such a size that they can be grabbed with fingers. At the same time, please note that two or three stepchildren must be left in reserve in the upper part in case the main bud is damaged by pests and therefore underdeveloped. Large-flowered chrysanthemums periodically stepchild, removing unwanted shoots, and thus only one full-fledged flower is formed on each trunk.
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