Powdery mildew causes plant disease. Powdery mildew on plants - pathogens and causes of plaque, drugs for treatment and prevention. Treatment with folk remedies

- one of the most common and unpleasant diseases from which suffers a large number of plants. It is imperative to fight it, since the result of a neglected disease is the death of a plant culture. It is especially unpleasant when illness destroys beauty.

What is dangerous powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is very often encountered by gardeners, gardeners and flower growers, as it affects cereals, fruit and berry crops.

This is fungal disease caused by a number of pathogenic fungi. If we talk about, then a fungus called "Sphaerotheca pannosaLew" settles on them. var. rosae Voron". As a result of its settlement on leaves, stems and flower buds, the plant loses decorative look, stops growing; its buds are deformed, do not open; leaves turn brown, blacken and dry. As a result, the death of the flower may be observed. Even at the initial stage, the disease greatly reduces the immunity of plants, and they cannot tolerate adverse external conditions, winter cold.

Important! Two types of roses are most susceptible to powdery mildew: hybrid tea and remontant.

Signs of defeat

The symptoms of powdery mildew are quite characteristic: they do not allow this disease to be confused with any other. In case of damage, plant organs are covered with a powdery cobweb grayish-white thick coating - mycelium. It looks like the leaves were sprinkled with flour. After the spores mature, drops of liquid can be observed on the plaque - this is where the name of the disease came from. Later, at the end of summer, the bloom becomes brown, and small dark brown balls appear on the surface of the leaves and stems - spores.

Usually, infection occurs in the first month of summer- it is at this time that the spores of the fungus are released, which had previously wintered in the fruiting body on plant debris. It starts with lower leaves, gradually capturing the entire flower.

Favorable factors for the spread are heat, high humidity, sudden changes in temperature during the day and at night. Usually, a temperature of 22°C and above and an air humidity of 60-90% are sufficient.
There are several reasons for the spread of the disease on roses:

  • planting infected seedlings;
  • not correct agricultural technology;
  • thickened landings;
  • overabundance;
  • nutritional deficiencies, in particular phosphorus and;
  • lack of preventive measures;
  • presence in the rose garden;
  • poor air permeability of the soil.
Fungal spores are spread from plant to plant with the help of wind and water, as well as by contact with a diseased plant. In winter, the fungus switches to, and returns in spring.

Preventive measures

Of course, as with any disease, it is better to prevent it than to deal with its consequences. Therefore, preventive measures come first when growing roses.
These include:

  • regular inspection of plants;
  • compliance with the recommended conditions during planting (drainage of the soil, sufficient distance between the bushes, selection of a site with correct lighting, landing on an open area protected from the winds);
  • timely removal;
  • proper agricultural practices, including regular watering and compliance with nutrient standards - do not overfeed and avoid deficiency and give preference;
  • preventive spraying with special protective ones;
  • careful autumn processing rose garden with cleaning of dry foliage and deep trunk circles;
  • choice for planting resistant to diseases.

According to experienced flower growers, the top five most resistant varieties include:
  1. "Leonardo da Vinci".
  2. "Wedding Bells".
  3. "New Down".
  4. "William Shakespeare 2000".
  5. Rosarium Utherson.
Preventive spraying with powdery mildew agents is carried out in spring and autumn periods. Use preparations containing copper (for example, copper sulfate), with the addition of. For example, you can treat with such a solution: copper sulfate (15 g), green soap (200-300 g), soda (50 g).

Also used are 0.25% Benomyl, 0.4% Zineb, 0.1%. As a rule, the treatment is carried out in the spring before flowering and in the autumn after the leaves are shed, the interval between sprayings is 10-14 days.

Powdery mildew prevention measures also include foliar feeding, which should be carried out before flowering using a mixture of (0.3%) and (0.3%).

Folk remedies

At the first symptoms of powdery mildew, treatment should not be started. folk remedies. Here are some effective recipes.

Recipe 1. Milk whey (1 l), (10 drops) mixed in water (10 l). Use for spraying leaves and stems twice with an interval of 7-10 days.

Recipe 2. Mix soda (40-50 g), soap (40 g) in 10 liters of water. Spray twice a week.

  1. Spraying should be carried out in the evening to avoid burns on the leaves.
  2. A fresh solution is prepared before each treatment. Such funds are not subject to storage.
  3. Spraying is carried out at least two times, until the signs of damage disappear.
  4. Before processing, it is necessary to remove and destroy infected leaves and buds by burning.

Important! Despite the fact that substances dangerous to human health are not usually used, nevertheless, the eyes, nose and mouthduring treatmentsshould be protected so that the solutions do not get on the mucous membrane and do not cause allergic reactions.

chemical attack

If folk remedies turned out to be helpless against powdery mildew on roses, it is necessary to move on to more radical control measures - to spraying: drugs developed for the treatment of fungal diseases.

Presented for sale today big choice bio-fungicides and systemic fungicides.

Cultures affected by the fungus Peronosporaceae become sticky to the touch, and leaves, berries or buds covered with powdery mildew acquire a bluish coating. Fruits with a touch of leucorrhoea will no longer ripen - they will crack and fall off. The same will happen with flowers, if you do not take necessary measures and not defend their landings.

What does powdery mildew look like

powdery mildew is a fungal disease. Powdery mildew is caused by ascomycetes. Most often more actively manifested in the spring. Young leaves and tops of shoots on plants are affected first. They are covered with a white powdery coating, stop growing and deform. The plaque becomes gradually thicker and darker. The affected parts of the plants begin to die off, the ovary does not form on them. This disease fruit crops reduces yield by 50-80%, and also reduces their resistance to frost.

Powdery mildew often affects cucumbers, zucchini, squash and pumpkins.

Look at the photo - the leaves affected by powdery mildew turn pale, wrinkle, then darken and dry out:

The stems and young leaves of plants are pale, and the fruits are underdeveloped, ripen earlier than usual and lose taste qualities. Fungi persist in the soil on plant debris and weeds. Powdery mildew most often affects vegetables grown in closed ground. In gooseberries, berries are also affected with it.

On strawberries, powdery mildew spots have a purple or reddish tint, and it is almost invisible on berries. Affected berries dry out unripe or soften quickly.

On potatoes, powdery mildew occurs at the end of the growing season in the form of a barely noticeable cobweb coating covering the stems and leaves.

The disease affects most species cultivated plants: fruit trees, berries, vegetables, gourds(, pumpkin, strawberries, raspberries, pears, apple trees, cabbage, cucumbers, beets, dill,).

Means to combat powdery mildew

What to do if powdery mildew hit your plantings? What means of control + powdery mildew are most effective?

Sick parts of plants are destroyed. Plants are sprayed during the period of bud swelling with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture or 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. To prevent the disease, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied to the soil in moderation, the crown is regularly thinned out. It is recommended to plant varieties of currants and gooseberries that are resistant to powdery mildew.

In addition, at the first sign of illness, spray the plants with a powdery mildew preparation such as Zircon (6 drops per 1 liter of water), or pour Phytosporin solution over the leaves (2 tablespoons of the solution per 10 liters of water). Use carbendazim, yogurt whey, brewed hay dust, iodine (bottle 10 ml 5 / o solution per 10 liters of water). Spraying or dousing should be repeated after a week until the plaque ceases to appear.

Also, at the first signs of powdery mildew, spraying is carried out with a 0.5% solution of sodium phosphate disubstituted (no more than 3 times) or a 1% emulsion of colloidal sulfur. After flowering, the plants are pollinated with a mixture of 1 part sulfur with 2 parts road dust no more than 5 times with an interval of 2 weeks. Strawberries and raspberries are sprayed with 0.75% colloidal sulfur before flowering and at its end.

The leaves are sprayed on both sides with sulfur-containing preparations (colloidal sulfur, sulfaride solution). For the prevention and treatment of this disease, preparations of agate 25k, bayzafon, prestige, thiovit jet, bayleton, quadris, kurzat, rovral, scor, topaz, immunocytophyte are used. earlier than 3-4 years later.

Diseased leaves are removed from plants. The remains of plants must be destroyed, and the soil is deeply dug in the fall.

Powdery mildew on cucumbers and a photo of the disease

Powdery mildew of cucumber is a very common disease in greenhouses and in open field.

As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew on cucumbers is expressed in the appearance of a white coating on the leaves, which spreads quickly, causing the leaves to turn white (as if sprinkled with flour), then dry out and the plants die:

Often, small brown spots appear on leaves, young shoots, and sometimes fruits, covered with a whitish-gray coating. Gradually, they capture the entire leaf, which dries up. Young shoots do not develop. Dampness and cold are not necessary for the appearance of this disease; in hot and dry weather, it also successfully spreads (and sometimes even more strongly).

How to get rid of powdery mildew on cucumbers: remedies

Saving cucumbers from the spread of powdery mildew is a little easier than from downy mildew. To begin with, regularly carefully inspect your garden plantings and ruthlessly remove any damaged leaves. AT compost pit they should not be thrown away, it is better to burn them.

How to deal with powdery mildew on cucumbers to save the crop? Spraying with a solution prepared from liquid helps well. cow dung with the addition of urea (1 liter of mullein mix well in 10 liters warm water and add 1 tbsp. l. urea). The filtered composition is sprayed from the sprayer with leaves on both sides. You can use an infusion of only manure (1 part manure, 3 parts water, insist for several days, then add the same volume of water, mix and filter). You can add wood ash.

Simple dusting of plants with dry ash can also help - the ash is placed in a gauze bag and, like powder, the leaves are sprinkled on both sides. For better adhesion, you can first spray them with water.

How else to treat powdery mildew cucumbers without using chemicals? A “cocktail” of weeds also helps (plantain, nettle, celandine, coltsfoot, Ivan tea, wood lice, dandelion). To prepare it, all of the listed weeds are finely cut, placed in a bucket (about half the volume) and poured with a small amount hot water. Everything is ground, 1 teaspoon of urea is added, the same amount of liquid soap or potassium permanganate solution (1 g of dry matter), and then topped up with water to 10 liters and mixed thoroughly. Spraying can be carried out several times at weekly intervals. You can also use spraying with whey.

The causative agent of powdery mildew and fine sulfur powder is afraid. Pollination is done through a three-layer gauze on a dry hot day, after which the greenhouse or garden bed must be closed for 2-3 hours.

For the treatment of powdery mildew on cucumbers, spores in the soil can be treated with a decoction of horsetail (per 10 liters of water 1 kg of fresh or 100 g of dried horsetail, first leave for a day, then boil for 2 hours, cool, strain and dilute with water 1 :5). You can spray both the soil and young plants. In a similar way, a decoction of tansy is prepared (for 10 liters of water 300 g fresh or 30 g dry), but it is more poisonous, so care should be taken when working with the resulting solution.

Even knowing how to get rid of powdery mildew on cucumbers, do not forget about preventive measures against the disease: for this, crops are rotated; deep autumn digging; removal of affected leaves, plant debris and weeds; maintaining a temperature of 20–25 ° C in greenhouses and optimal humidity.

How to fight and how to treat cucumbers from powdery mildew?

When the first signs of mealy plaque appear on the leaves, they must be sprinkled with a solution of mullein: for 10 liters of warm (25 ° C) water, take 1 liter of liquid mullein and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea. The solution should be well stirred, filtered and sprayed on the leaves in the morning in warm weather. Leaves should be processed from the sprayer both from the bottom and from the top. Pollination of plants with finely ground sulfur helps. To do this, sulfur is poured into a bag of three-layer gauze and the plants are pollinated during the day in sunny weather at an air temperature of 23–28 ° C. When processing in a greenhouse, it is necessary to close the windows and doors, and cover the cucumbers in the garden in the open field with a film for 2 hours. A good result is obtained by spraying plants with a solution of potassium permanganate (1.5 g per 10 liters of water). An effective way to combat powdery mildew is to spray plants with colloidal sulfur - 40 g of the drug per 10 liters of water. In this case, the processing is carried out in cloudy weather.

A more reliable means of combating powdery mildew on cucumbers is spraying with Topaz. To do this, take 1 ampoule (2 ml), diluted in 10 liters of water ( room temperature), stir and pour into a sprayer with a fine spray. Spraying is carried out both at the first signs of the disease, and for prevention. Spray cucumbers 2 times. The first spraying is carried out when 8-10 true leaves appear, the second - at the beginning of flowering (about 10-12 days after the first). Cucumbers are processed both in film greenhouses and in open ground in calm calm weather, preferably in the morning, evenly wetting the leaves. You can spray the plants with a solution of the Hom preparation - 40 g of powder is diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed at the rate of 1 liter of solution per 10 m2.

To prevent the disease, it is also necessary to keep the garden clean, to feed in a timely manner (potash and phosphorus fertilizers increase plant resistance).

It is worth remembering that during the annual sowing or planting of cucumbers on the same bed, pathogens of this disease accumulate on it. They spread rapidly with low temperatures and watering. cold water. The disease can be transferred from weeds, flowers, etc.

Powdery mildew on currants and gooseberries (with photo)

The disease on currants and gooseberries manifests itself in the form of a white coating on the ends of young shoots, leaves and berries.

As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew of currants and gooseberries gradually forms an increasingly dense coating, similar to felt:

The berries stop growing, the shoots turn black and dry. Powdery mildew spores are easily carried by the wind and germinate on healthy plants at a temperature of 16-23 ° C, thus giving life to a new mycelium.

Pay attention to the photo - with powdery mildew of currants and gooseberries, suction cups often appear on the mycelium, through which they receive nutrients from the host plant:

Spores usually mature only in the spring next year, remaining during the winter on fallen leaves, shoots and affected berries of gooseberries and currants.

The spread of powdery mildew of gooseberries and currants is facilitated by dense plantings and wet weather.

Powdery mildew control measures on currants and gooseberries

The main measures to combat powdery mildew on currants include, first of all, planting disease-resistant varieties of white (Versailles white, Dutch pink), red currants (Jonher van Tets, Chulkovskaya, Dutch red). Of course, the list of varieties resistant to powdery mildew is not limited to those listed, the list can be replenished annually with new resistant varieties bred by breeders. After flowering, as soon as the first signs of the disease appear, the plants are sprayed with a solution of soda ash (50 g per 10 l of water) with the addition of 40 g of laundry soap.

An effective myrrh in the fight against powdery mildew on gooseberries and currants is the use of ash infusion. To prepare it, take 1/3 of a bucket of ash, fill the bucket with water to the top, boil for 1 hour, cool, filter and spray with this infusion. You can also spray with mullein infusion. To prepare the last 1/3 bucket of mullein, pour warm water to the top, insist 3 days, dilute with 3 buckets of water, filter and spray. These sprays also serve as good foliar top dressing. If the disease is strongly developed, spraying is repeated after 7-10 days 3-4 times. The latter is allowed to be carried out 5 days before harvest.

How to treat currants and gooseberries from powdery mildew

AT last years such an effective and environmentally completely safe method of protecting currants from powdery mildew as spraying bushes with boiling water in early spring is common. As soon as the snow melts, and the currant buds have not yet begun to swell, the water is boiled, poured into a watering can and the bushes are poured evenly and thoroughly with this boiling water. For a large fruit-bearing bush, one full watering can of boiling water is enough. The bush is sprayed very carefully so that drops of boiling water moisten each branch from top to bottom.

The peculiarity of this spraying technique is that the bush should be treated in one go. Even if not all the branches got drops of boiling water, then re-spraying the bush is unacceptable. The fact is that boiling water, burning and killing pathogenic fungi on the surface of branches, shoots, buds, quickly cools down, giving off its heat. And when re-treated with boiling water, the bush will already be warmed, and high-temperature hot water will easily penetrate the kidneys, burn them, and they will die.

It is important that at the time of spraying the buds on the bushes should not begin to swell and be open. For the convenience of carrying out this procedure and enhancing the effect of treatment before spraying, the bush must be tied with twine so that it has a diameter of 60–80 cm in diameter. If the bushes have not yet been released from autumn tight binding, then, on the contrary, they are somewhat released.

Spring spraying of bushes and spilling the soil under them with boiling water also kills pathogens and other diseases, and also has a detrimental effect on pest eggs laid on the surface of branches.

How else can you process currants and gooseberries from powdery mildew on personal plot? Both young seedlings and fruit-bearing currant and gooseberry bushes are sprayed in the spring before flowering and after flowering with Topaz (2 ml per 7 liters of water). The third treatment is carried out after the final harvest. 40 g of colloidal sulfur are diluted in 15 liters of water. They spend from 1.5–2 liters of working solution per 1 large bush.

Powdery mildew on roses and a photo of the disease

The disease always affects young tissues. In the upper part of the bushes on young leaves and shoots with buds, a white, powdery, gradually graying coating appears. Over time, the plaque becomes denser, and black dots of the fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the fungus form in it.

Look at the photo - with powdery mildew on roses, the affected leaves turn brown and dry prematurely, the shoots are deformed, the buds often do not open:

The infection persists in plant debris and in the bark of shoots, on which in spring the mycelium grows from overwintered fruiting bodies in the form of rounded convex spots. Spores are formed on the mycelium, which re-infect young growing leaves and shoots.

Powdery mildew appears in both wet and dry weather. However best conditions for its development - warm weather and shade. At the same time, the fungus does not tolerate high temperatures and direct sunlight, which turn out to be fatal for it.

If you do not start fighting powdery mildew in a timely manner, then it will cause serious damage to the plant, as a result of which the rose will grow and develop worse, and its appearance will also worsen.

All types of powdery mildew fungus can only survive on a living plant. On roses, the fungus lives on buds and stems, in the winter it can go to some weeds, and in the spring it will spread again from them to roses. In order for powdery mildew to develop on roses, an air temperature of 20–25 ° C and a humidity of 40–90% are required. If the plant is in the shade, then this can also affect the development of the fungus. From the onset of the development of the disease to the appearance of new spores, it usually takes about 2–3 days, and if the weather is unstable, then this period can last 1–1.5 weeks.

To avoid powdery mildew, it is quite enough to carry out prevention and control proper development roses. This also facilitates the fight against powdery mildew, if the disease still affects the plants.

It develops rapidly on plants growing on soils rich in nitrogen, so it is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers in strictly specified quantities. And it is better to give preference to organic.

Also great importance has distance between rose bushes. If they have access to fresh air, then this prevents the appearance of powdery mildew.

Treatment of powdery mildew on roses: effective control measures

It is necessary to regularly remove and destroy the parts of plants affected by the disease, and in this way it is possible not only to fight powdery mildew, but also to increase the flow of fresh air to all parts of the plants. If a rose bush is severely affected by the disease, then it must be dug up and burned - it is better to sacrifice one plant in order to save all the others.

After the destruction of parts of roses affected by powdery mildew, spraying is recommended to treat the disease. For this purpose, you can use drugs such as Skor, Fitosporin, Baktofit, Topaz. If the first signs of powdery mildew appear on the roses, you need to spray the plants with fungicides containing sulfur, and after 1-2 weeks, repeat the spraying if necessary. A large amount of sulfur is found in garlic, so you need to plant it next to rose bushes to prevent the development of powdery mildew. You can also create powdery mildew solutions at home using squeezed garlic juice. If roses are sprayed in time, it is easy to prevent the development of powdery mildew, as well as to simplify the fight against it if the fungus still infects the plants.

One more effective measure powdery mildew control on roses is a solution baking soda to be sprayed once a week. Baking soda helps to raise the pH of the surface of the rose leaf, which prevents the development of powdered spores on it. When treating roses with preparations with sulfur or baking soda, you need to make sure that both the top and Bottom part leaves.

To prepare a solution of baking soda at home 1 tsp. soda is diluted in 1 liter of water, and then a few drops of liquid soap are added. Before spraying roses with this solution, you need to make sure that the plant will tolerate such a procedure well. Why should you apply the solution to several leaves and observe them for a couple of days. If there are no changes, you can safely spray the roses.

It is important to cut off the deformed affected shoots in a timely manner. At the first symptoms of powdery mildew, sprinkle the plants with one of the preparations: Vectra, Topaz. If necessary, repeat the treatment, trying to alternate the preparations. It affects roses in open and closed ground. The disease often manifests itself in the second half of summer and quickly spreads to neighboring plants. Leaves, shoots and buds are covered with a white powdery coating, curl and dry. Powdery mildew has a different effect on different kinds and varieties of roses. Plants with thick, leathery leaves are affected less frequently than those with thin, tender ones.

In autumn, cut and remove all affected parts of plants, dig the soil deeply. Bushes are sprayed with chemicals. In early spring (until the leaves have blossomed), the plants are treated with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water). At the first signs of the disease, the bushes are treated with Topaz (4 ml diluted in 10 liters of water) or Skor (2 ml per 10 liters of water). Spraying "Gray colloidal" (40 g per 5 liters of water) is effective.

Thickened plantings, high humidity, abundant nitrogen fertilizer, lack of lime in the soil contribute to the spread of the disease. In open ground, roses are recommended to be grown in well-lit areas.

Powdery mildew of peas and cucurbits

The strongest development of powdery mildew on peas is observed in dry summers.

Leaves, sometimes stems and beans are affected. A white powdery coating appears on the surface of the affected organs. It contains hyphae of the fungus with conidia. Conidial sporulation occurs several times during the summer. The degree of development of the disease depends on its intensity. Conidia are carried by wind, raindrops and insects.

Powdery mildew on peas looks like on other plants: white coating over time, it becomes denser, becomes dirty gray, and the leaves dry out. The disease develops intensively at a temperature of 22–25 ° C and air humidity of 60–70%.

The causative agent of powdery mildew overwinters on plant debris.

Control measures: destruction of plant residues, early sowing of peas. It is effective to spray plants when the first signs of powdery mildew appear with Energen: 10 drops per 1 liter of water, solution consumption - 1 liter per 10 m2. Repeat after 10 days.

Powdery mildew of pumpkin crops affects plants in open and closed ground. First, rounded powdery spots form on the upper side of the leaves, and then on the lower side, which increase and merge over time. Leaves darken and wrinkle. Powdery plaque is nothing more than a mycelium of pathogens. Affected stems remain underdeveloped, the fruits become tasteless. The disease is favored by temperature fluctuations and heavy dews. The causative agents of the disease overwinter on plant debris and weeds.

How to deal with powdery mildew on grapes and how to treat the vine for treatment

Powdery mildew of grapes affects the green parts of plants, which are covered with a powdery coating of light gray color, consisting of fungal hyphae. They penetrate the epidermis, and the plant organs (leaves, berries, shoots) stop growing and developing and soon die.

The mycelium is preserved in the eyes of the vine, under their scales, around the beginnings of inflorescences. It is difficult to track the moment of infection, but when the first signs are found - grayish-whitish spots - urgent measures should be taken and the plant should be sprayed with a solution, for example, DNOC (100 g per 10 liters of water). They can be used 1 time in 3 years before flowering plants.

Before you fight powdery mildew on grapes, remember that this disease gives nine generations during the growing season. Mushrooms reproduce most actively at a temperature of 25–29 °C and a relative humidity of 70–80%. If the mushrooms are treated with ground sulfur in time, a good effect can be observed.

How else to process grapes from powdery mildew in order to preserve the harvest? Well help fungicides "Strobi", "Vectra", "Tilt" and others. Prevention is green operations in the vineyard and the application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and trace elements.

For the treatment of powdery mildew on grapes and quality preventive measure spraying with 3% Bordeaux liquid after flowering can be used.

Fighting powdery mildew on strawberries

The source of infection are strawberry plants affected during the growing season. The fungus overwinters on fallen leaves or infected plants. Favorable conditions for it are high humidity and a large amount of precipitation.

Signs of defeat. The edges of the leaves are twisted; on the underside of the sheet, and sometimes on the top, a white coating is observed. Powdery mildew affects the entire plant, but more leaves.

To combat powdery mildew on strawberries, it is necessary to use healthy planting material. It is better to plant plantations in well-lit and ventilated areas. If the plant is still sick, then it is necessary to systematically remove the affected parts. Spraying with colloidal sulfur (70 g per 10 l of water) or soda ash (50 g per 10 l of water) before flowering and after harvesting helps.

Powdery mildew on flowers and protection measures

Symptoms of powdery mildew on flowers appear soon after the start of the growing season. A white, then a grayish-white powdery coating appears on the affected organs, consisting of a superficially developing mycelium and conidial sporulation of the fungus. The leaves shrivel, dry up; shoots lag behind in growth, their tops often dry up. Buds at severe defeat do not unravel.

The pathogen is preserved on plant debris in the form of cleistothecia, less often in the form of mycelium.

The spread of the disease contributes hot weather, drip moisture and excess nitrogen fertilizers. During the growing season, the disease is spread by conidia that are easily dispersed by wind or insects.

The main protection measures are the removal of affected and dried leaves. Avoid sharp fluctuations in temperature in the greenhouse, overdrying of plants, one-sided use of nitrogen fertilizers.

The treatment of affected plants with the following fungicides is also effective: benlat, vectra, topaz, cumulus, thiovit, colloidal sulfur.

Watch the Powdery Mildew Control video for a better understanding of how to get rid of this fungal disease:

♦ SIGNS OF PLANT DEFECT:

Gradually, the linen captures the stems and other parts of the houseplant. Over time, the spots increase in size, the mycelium thickens (becomes felty), the plaque darkens and acquires a brownish color.

It should be noted that flowers can also be affected by downy mildew (peronosporosis), the external signs of which are similar to real underwear. But, unlike the real one, downy mildew in the form of a plaque appears only on the underside. leaf blade, then the spots turn yellow, increase in size and then acquire a brownish color.

♦ WHAT DAMAGE DOES BELLOW DO TO HOUSEPLANTS?

many buds flowering species do not open and fall off, the flowering period may not begin at all. The leaves of the plant gradually turn brown and noticeably deform, dry out and fall off.

The development of the plant noticeably worsens, growth stops. Soon, only bare stems remain from the plant, covered with a darkening coating. decorative value the flower is completely destroyed.



- leaves affected by powdery mildew: photo

♦ WHAT CAUSES POWDER DEW?

◉ as a rule, powdery mildew appears on indoor flowers when the home care regimen is violated. Promotes the appearance of whiteness too heat against the background of high humidity (70-80%);

◉ if there are drops of water on the plant after watering and spraying for too long;

◉ reduced turgor of the leaves and stems of the plant, as well as wilting caused by any disease;

◉ too vulnerable a weakened plant damaged by such dangerous pests as spider mites, flower thrips, scale insects, whitefly larvae, mealybug or white aphid;

◉ incorrect feeding of the plant. Spores (conidia) of fungi are carried through the air and fall on the plant. With an excess of nitrogenous fertilizers and an insufficient amount of calcium in the soil, the plant's resistance to the development of powdery mildew from conidia decreases.

♦ HOW TO PREVENT POWDERY DEW ON PLANTS?

❂ the best prevention of the disease is to organize the correct and timely care of home flowers in order to make them as resistant to fungi as possible;

❂ do not forget to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to the potting soil in time and keep the proportions while preparing the solution;

❂ stagnant air contributes to the rapid spread of plaque with powdery mildew throughout the plant. Ventilate the room more often, improve air circulation;

❂ severely affected by linen, dried, deformed leaves and shoots should be removed;

❂ useful to pollinate houseplants ground sulfur in the summer. It is enough to pollinate 1-2 times a month ( best option- 4-5 times for the whole summer).

♦ HOW TO FIGHT POWDER DEW IN HOME?

➊ if you managed to detect the first signs of underwear damage in a timely manner, then you can get rid of the fungus with folk methods. For example, an infusion of garlic is very effective on early stage defeat. To do this, grind 30 gr. garlic and stir in 1 liter clean water and then put the product in a dark place for 24 hours. Spray the entire plant from a spray bottle 3 times with an interval of 1 week;

➋ one more good way processing - soap solution with blue vitriol. In 1 liter of water, add 2-3 grams of copper sulfate and 30 gr. chopped laundry soap, mix everything thoroughly. After 12-14 hours, you can use the product by spraying the plant from a spray bottle. Treat at least 3 times with an interval of 4 days;

➌ fungicides against powdery mildew. With a strong defeat of the plant with powdery mildew without treatment with special chemicals not enough. Fortunately, most modern fungicides do not cause severe damage to flowers. Effective remedies against leucorrhoea include drugs such as Colloidal sulfur, Fundazol, Topaz, Skor, Vectra, Thiovit, HOM.


♦ WHICH HOUSEPLANTS ARE AT RISK?

Almost all popular species potted flowers can be affected by the activity of powdery mildew fungi. The most vulnerable include varieties with soft and tender leaves -

Powdery mildew is a headache for every gardener. If you do not start to fight it in time, you can lose the entire crop, or even the plant itself or part of it. This disease usually manifests itself in the second part holiday season and affects all types of plants without exception, even indoor flowers.

The soil contains a huge number of spores of various pathogens of fungal diseases, including powdery mildew pathogens. They become active when favorable conditions arise for them. For example, in high humidity and cold weather, spores come to life and begin to multiply actively.

First, they populate the leaves located below, as they are closer to the ground, and then they infect the entire plant completely. Spores can also enter through the contaminated water with which it is watered, and through the air from already infected vegetation.

Symptoms of the disease

As the disease spreads, the plant becomes more and more covered with plaque, which acquires a dense structure and turns brown. On the surface of the plaque, capsules are formed, in which there are fungal spores. The damage caused by the disease is enormous. The disease has various types and signs.

downy mildew

With this disease, the following symptoms are characteristic: white or gray spots on the leaves, and gray mold on the back of the leaf. The plant becomes sickly. The causes of the disease are bacteria. Downy mildew occurs when there are sudden changes in temperature with high humidity. These conditions are optimal for the germination of spores of pathogens. Downy mildew infects all plants, but indoor flowers are rare. They can become infected only from soil in which spores are present.

Powdery mildew control measures

At the first sign of the onset of the disease, it is urgent to deal with it. Otherwise, this disease will flood your entire garden. Treatment requires an integrated approach and prevention. To begin with, reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizers and regulate the irrigation regime - this harms the vegetation.

Preparations for powdery mildew are:

  • chemical;
  • bacterial;
  • folk remedies.

Chemicals

Preparations for the treatment of fungal diseases - fungicides. They will help to quickly get rid of powdery and downy mildew. The most common systemic fungicide against powdery mildew is Buperimat. It effectively fights the disease, both at an early and advanced stage.

Fungicides are sprayed on the buds and soil of plants. After the flowering process, for prevention, the plant can be sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate. If the disease appears on indoor flowers, they must be taken outside and treated with a fungicide solution.

When choosing chemicals, it is necessary to pay attention to their composition. If the fungicide contains sulfur, do not treat it fruit bushes they don't tolerate it well. Sulfur is suitable for the treatment of grapes, peaches and some varieties of strawberries.

Remember that sulfur is a method of prevention, it is beyond its power to cope with the disease.

The use of a fungicide can harm the plant and affect the quality of the crop. The components that make up their composition can accumulate in fruits and berries.

Bacterial preparations

Unlike chemical species, they do not harm your "green pets", but can effectively fight the disease. Diseases such as powdery mildew are well treated with phytosporin. This is a bacterial preparation. Available in paste, powder and liquid form. Suitable for the treatment and protection of indoor flowers.

Phytosporin is used in early spring as soon as the snow melted. They spray the soil and the plant. Also, to consolidate the effect after flowering, the plant is treated with a solution of vitriol or sulfur. Phytosporin Processes planting material, increases the resistance of the plant to various types of pests, and also stabilizes the growth of seedlings. The drug phytosporin reduces the germination of all types of seeds.

Treatment with folk remedies

Most often they are used to prevent the disease. There are many types of treatment, but at a severe stage they are ineffective. But they do not harm plants.

Based on vitriol

Downy mildew is well treated with a soap solution to which copper sulfate is added. Make the solution as follows: dissolve 50 grams of soap in 5 liters of hot water. Add 5 grams of copper sulfate to the container. We process the affected leaves of fruit or indoor flowers with this emulsion. Soda with vitriol is great for treatment.

Before bud break, a tree or plant is sprayed with a solution of vitriol. Soda is applied to processing after the appearance of flowers.

Sulfur

Sulfur can effectively fight this disease. Sulfur in the amount of 40 grams is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spray the currants with the solution until flowers appear. Sulfur cannot be used to process gooseberries. Sulfur itself does not affect the destruction of the fungus. But penetrating inside the spores, it forms hydrogen sulfide with hydrogen, which has a toxic effect and destroys the disease.

Soda

Soda ash is good at eliminating downy and powdery mildew on indoor flowers. Soda in the amount of 40 gr. diluted with 5 liters of water. Soda is pre-diluted with 50 grams of laundry soap. Spray the plant every 10 days. Such protection fights the disease well.

Solutions of fermented milk products relieve this disease well. Lactic acid bacteria are able to destroy pathogenic fungi, but they cannot get rid of spores. The spray solution is prepared very simply: one part of the fermented milk product is diluted with 10 parts of water.

For the treatment of indoor flowers, mullein infusions are suitable. We take three parts of water and one mullein. The resulting solution is infused for three days. Dilute with water before processing.

A decoction of garlic will quickly cure a diseased plant. 100 grams of garlic pour boiling water and cool. They treat the affected areas of the plant.

Disease prevention

In order to avoid the treatment of plants and flowers, not only the fight against powdery mildew is important, but also the prevention of plants. First of all, planting should be carried out only on healthy soils, where infected trees or flowers have not been previously planted, as well as:

  1. Delete in a timely manner weeds Location on.
  2. Infected parts of flowers and plants should be burned.
  3. Every year, after fruiting, cut off old and dry branches from trees that harm the plant.
  4. During the summer season, plants and flowers are periodically sprayed with a sulfur solution.
  5. It is necessary to thin out densely growing plants.
  6. Plants most susceptible to this disease are best planted in an open and bright place.
  7. When watering a plant or indoor flowers, try not to wet the leaves.
  8. Regularly remove fallen leaves from the site, as it is the main carrier of fungal spores.

Powdery mildew on houseplants is manifested due to various problems. If there are no external signs of the disease on the culture, then it is rather difficult to find out whether it is sick or not. To obtain healthy plants, it is necessary to fully prepare the soil and seeds for planting, observe all aspects of care. Only in this case, indoor flowers and other plantings are rarely affected by infections and have strong immunity.

What is powdery mildew

All gardeners know diseases garden plantings, shrubs and house flowers. Many struggle with them annually, someone manages to defeat pests in a few weeks. Unfortunately, garden owners often encounter a plant disease - powdery mildew (other names are ash, white, flour).

She strikes garden trees, bushes, vegetable crops(zucchini, squash, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, pumpkins), as well as many flowers, even indoor ones (oidium, phlox). To protect at home from this scourge, 3 methods were invented: with the help of folk remedies, biofungicides and fungicides. How to use each method and avoid infection - read on.

Powdery mildew is a lightning-fast spreading disease that is the vital activity of various types of microscopic fungi. A white coating appears on the leaves of infected plants, resembling flour or mold (mycelium), and then droplets of liquid.

How to recognize and what provokes?

If you see a gray-white coating that can be mistaken for dust and even easily removed with your finger, but at the same time it will reappear in a few days, hitting an even larger area, then you have powdery mildew. If you look very carefully, you may notice that ulcers have formed at the site of the lesion. Soon the stem and peduncles will turn white, acquire a yellow tint and lose their elasticity. New ones grow ugly and twisted.

What causes? White plaque, similar in appearance to flour or mold, is a mycelium that lives off the host's nutrients. Her spores are dark brown balls.

Pathogens - various types of imperfect fungi such as:

  • Sphaerotheca mors affects gooseberries. Bacteria attack not only leaves, but also berries. The ashtray quickly moves from one bush to another.
  • Sphaerotheca fuliginea - pumpkin. The yield of this crop falls by 50 percent. The quality of pumpkins and zucchini also suffers.
  • Erysiphe graminis is a threat to grain.
  • Sphaerotheca pannosa - roses. The shrub loses its decorative appearance. Leaves and buds stop growing. The tormentor can lead to the death of the plant.

If you do not take measures to destroy the infection, then complete damage to the stems, up to death, is possible.

Powdery mildew appears in early summer. When the spores are released from the overwintered fungus, infection begins. Spores can live in the soil for a long time, they begin their reproduction when the weather is favorable for them.

Causes

The ashtray appears due to many factors:

  • Cool weather (+15-25 degrees), excessive humidity 60-80%, rainy season. Most weather affect street and balcony seedlings.
  • The soil is oversaturated with nitrogen.
  • Seedlings planted too densely.
  • Humidity is broken. Excessive or rare watering are the right prerequisites for reducing the immunity of the seedling, the appearance of flour.

To avoid infection of plants, the above errors in care and cultivation should be corrected.

How does powdery mildew spread?

There are 2 main modes of transmission of bacteria:

  • Asexual way. Reproduction in this way occurs due to conidia. It is because of the motionless spores, which got their name from the Greek konia - dust and eidos - view, that they can be seen on the affected areas, which look like a whitish coating. They are easily separated from each other, the wind takes them to a decent distance. Thus, all new shoots are infected throughout the summer.
  • Sexual reproduction by cleistothecia. This is the name of the fruiting body of the fungus, consisting of hyphae and containing millions of spores, each of which contains up to 8 ascopores. Cleistothecia calmly endure the winter on fallen plant waste, waiting for spring and suitable conditions for reproduction.

At a spring temperature of +15 degrees, only 5 days pass from the moment of infection to the formation of conidia.

The yield is reduced by 50%. Cucumbers grown in greenhouses where there are drafts are most susceptible to the disease. bad light. The first foci are born near the windows and doors. Not only whole lashes, but also all planted seedlings can die from the disease.

Do not overfeed seedlings with nitrogen-containing fertilizers during bud set. On the contrary, top dressing with potash and phosphorus agents will reduce the risk of damage by ash.

On gooseberries and currants, the disease is noticeable due to twisted shoots that lag behind in growth, they become ugly, then dry out. On gooseberries, berries are also affected. At first, white spots appear on them, darkening over time. The fruits stop growing, shrivel, sometimes fall off. To destroy the mycelium, the affected ends of the shoots should be cut.

Fertilizing with organic and phosphate fertilizers is effective. During flowering and after harvest, diseased plantings are treated with fungicides. It is useful to irrigate the bushes in the spring with copper sulfate (10 grams per ten-liter bucket), 1% Bordeaux liquid, after flowering - soda ash (2 treatments in 10 days).

When an apple tree is damaged, leaves and young shoots suffer. They also stop growing, curl up and fall off. Most often, the disease covers old, unpruned trees. Ashpellet affects the above-ground organs in raspberries, strawberries and wild roses. The leaves curl, their underside is exposed, over time it becomes a bronze hue. On the berries you can notice a slight coating, they smell specifically of mushrooms.

To protect tomatoes from infection, seedlings are treated with sodium humate. It completely prevents the germination of mycelium. To protect against pest fungi, a 1% solution of Baktofit helps well. They should spray tomatoes three times with an interval of 7-10 days at the first appearance of signs of damage. Also treated with fungicides. For better adhesion of the preparations to the leaves and shoots, a little laundry soap or silicate glue is added to the sprayer.

Prevention for zucchini is advised to be carried out in early spring with a solution of nitrofen. If a white coating appears, cut off and burn the diseased parts, dig the soil around the bush. It should be treated three times in 7-10 days. Strawberries can be saved if they are not allowed to grow too densely, thinning and planting out in a timely manner. When spraying, make sure that the drug gets not only on the surface, but also on the entire bush from all sides.

flower treatment

To prevent infection of outdoor, indoor flowering crops, use preventive measures:

  • regularly inspect the plantings;
  • follow the recommendations when landing (choose correct distance between the bushes, a properly lit area, plant on an area protected from drafts);
  • remove weeds in a timely manner;
  • do not use nitrogen for fertilizers, choose organic top dressing;
  • for prevention, spray with special compounds;
  • in the fall remove the dried vegetable waste, dig deep at the trunk circles;
  • choose varieties that are immune to ashtray.

For confrontation with white bloom on indoor flowers, fungicides are used. Spill the soil with any similar preparation, also the walls of the pot. If the flower is severely affected, you need to remove upper layer substrate contaminated with fungal mycelium and replace it with fresh, disinfected soil. Most effective method- pour the healing liquid into the basin and completely dip the greens into it, pour the earth abundantly.

How to use fungicides and biofungicides?

Timely and correct application chemical measures against ashtray effectively. Chemical preparations are sold in specialized stores and the price is quite low. For convenience, sprayers are used. When working, it is recommended to observe safety measures: carry out the procedure in a respirator and gloves.

The most commonly used fungicides are:

  1. 1. Copper sulfate. Only one treatment is possible per season - in early spring. To make a mixture, 50 g of the substance is diluted in 10 liters of water. To prepare the most effective remedy 35 g of vitriol are added to 500 ml of boiling water, 150-200 g of soap chips are mixed separately in 10 liters. Then slowly and carefully pour the resulting liquid into the soap substrate, stirring constantly.
  2. 2. Thiovid Jet. Acquire for the treatment of pears, apple trees, cucumbers, grapes.
  3. 3. Fundazol. Unfortunately, it is not sold in small packages, it is produced in bags from 5 to 20 kg. Soil watering is recommended, especially in infected violets.
  4. 4. Topaz. Produced for the prevention and treatment of flour.
  5. 5. Colloidal sulfur. Suitable for processing different types crops, shrubs and trees. A special difference between this fungicide and others is that it can be sprayed 3 days before harvest. But it is not recommended to sprinkle sulfur on gooseberries. With caution - on watermelons, zucchini, melons, cucumbers and pumpkins, as these plants do not tolerate the effects of sulfur. Spray strictly at an air temperature of + 27-32 degrees, otherwise there will be no effect.
  6. 6. Also popular are Zato, Forecast, Topsin-M, Tilt and Quadris.

As part of biofungicides - live bacteria that can eliminate the development of infection that accumulates on plants.

Biofungicides are environmentally friendly, so they are used even during the ripening of the crop. Their effectiveness is lower than when using chemicals - their action is not long-lasting. They should be used repeatedly. Most often, Fitosporin, Pseudobacterin-2 and Alirin-B are used.

The fight against powdery mildew folk remedies

Prepared decoctions and infusions from the ingredients that are in almost every home not only help well, but are completely non-toxic. On the initial stage manifestations of powdery mildew, it is recommended to try to cure the culture using safe methods and preparations.

How to deal with underwear on cucumbers and tomatoes

Before spraying, you need to remove diseased areas of the bush, burn plant waste. You can achieve a good result after dusting cucumbers with sulfur powder (it will take 25-30 g per 10 square meters) or colloidal sulfur (25-30 grams diluted in a bucket of water). It is also useful to water cucumbers with mullein (cow dung).

To prevent the appearance of the disease on the bushes, seeds for seedlings are soaked in a solution of Epin or Immunocytophyte for 42 hours. When planting sprouts in a greenhouse, they monitor soil moisture, do not allow drafts and sudden changes in temperature. Timely open and close windows and doors, observe the irrigation regime. Already affected tomatoes can be sprayed with 10% whey, ash solution or reverse.

Treatment of zucchini, eggplant and berry crops

Folk decoctions are used every other day. It is better to carry out the treatment in the evening, on days without precipitation, with water with the addition of soda ash or mullein, as well as an ash pan (water with ash).

For the treatment of currants, dusting with sulfur, an emulsion with soda, ash water, whey, even kefir or yogurt, a weak solution of manganese, a decoction of horsetail, tansy, infusion of rotten hay, is well suited. onion peel. Do not forget to carry out disinfecting pruning every autumn and spring.

Saving apple and cherry trees

The most effective way would be to treat the trees with soda ash with laundry soap (for better adhesion of the product) or colloidal sulfur every 3-4 days (more often in rainy weather) until complete recovery.

Folk recipes for the fight against powdery mildew:

  • Soap and soda solution is a fairly common lifesaver, as every gardener has the ingredients. For cooking, take 10 liters of plain water, add and dilute 50 g of baking soda or soda ash and 20 g of grated soap (it’s easier to add liquid). Irrigate the plantings with the resulting mixture at least twice with an interval of seven days.
  • Milk serum. It will take 10 liters of water and whey in a volume of one liter. The main substance is added to water, stirred well and treated three times a day with a three-day interval. Spraying is recommended in dry weather.
  • Mix with kefir. If there is 1 liter of fermented yogurt or kefir, then consider the means to combat ashpel is almost ready. Pour in fermented milk product in a ten-liter bucket of water. The resulting mixture must be processed every 3 days.
  • Decoction using field horsetail. 100 g of the plant should be filled with water in the amount of 1 liter and infused for one day. Then the broth is boiled for 2 hours over low heat. After it has cooled, it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 5. It will be enough to spray 3-4 times with a five-day interval. Undiluted decoction can be stored in a dark and cool place for no longer than a week.

Mixtures and infusions from the fungus

A mixture of mustard and water: for cooking you will need 2 tablespoons of mustard and 10 liters of moisture. The product can be both sprayed and watered.

A solution of potassium permanganate: pour 5 g of potassium permanganate into 10 liters of water. Manganese helps to stop the development of the disease and washes away the pores of fungi.

Ash pan: 1 kg wood ash diluted with water in a volume of 10 liters, stir and infuse for a week. Then it must be carefully drained and add 20 grams of grated or liquid soap. In a bucket where particles of ash remain, you can add water and water.

To prepare a medicinal mixture, you will need one part of manure and three waters. All components are mixed and kept indoors for 3-5 days. Further excess moisture drain and add 3 more parts of water. The feeding procedure is done until the powdery mildew disappears.

Broth with garlic: take 50 grams of chopped product, add to a deep container and pour water. Insist 2 days, filter before use. This tincture should be used undiluted.

Onion infusion: to begin with, boil 10 liters of water, pour 200 g of husks with boiling water. They insist for two days.

Iodine: 1 ml of iodine is diluted in 1 liter of water. For spraying roses, a more concentrated liquid is prepared - for 400 ml 1 ml of iodine. The remedy is effective at the first signs of the disease. For the treatment of severe lesions, it is advised to use strong drugs.

We hope that these methods will help prevent infection, timely choose an effective way to treat your plants from an unpleasant pest. But do not forget about prevention. Good yield!

Loading...
Top