Whatever roses you grow in your flower garden or at home, in any case it will be useful to know how roses are transplanted correctly.
Features of transplanting an adult rose to replace a dead bush
When one of the rose bushes suddenly dies in the rose garden, another, also an adult bush, is planted in its place.
When growing these beautiful flowers, sooner or later there is a need for a transplant - immediately after the acquisition, you need to move to a larger pot with fresh nutrient soil, and garden roses have to be transplanted for various reasons:
- it is not always possible to initially correctly plan the design of the site, or construction suddenly begins, and there is no other way out but to move the flower bed with roses to another place;
- when planting seedlings, neighboring plants were not taken into account, from which the roses began to hurt and die;
- due to sandy, unnecessarily loose soil the roots of roses were deepened, or on a heavy clay soil were extruded to the surface;
- the main ones on the site were not taken into account;
- under the mature bushes in the old rose garden the soil was depleted;
- rose bushes have grown too large and have lost their decorative effect.
The latter option is possible with improper care of own-rooted roses, if you do not cut the roots of the bush in time and allow the stems to grow in different directions. At the same time, it is not at all necessary to dig out the entire bush, it is enough just to cut off and transplant part of the bush, so you will rejuvenate old bush, you will achieve more abundant flowering from it. In addition, you do not have to worry about how to root a rose before planting in a new place - it will already have a developed root system.
Video about correct transplant roses
In other cases, if the landscape design of the site was thought out in advance, and a place suitable in all respects was chosen for planting roses, it will no longer be necessary to replant the established rose bushes.
When one of the rose bushes suddenly dies in the rose garden, another, also an adult bush, is planted in its place. At the same time, you need to carefully approach the choice of a plant - a rose must have the appropriate size of a bush, the color of its flowers must be in harmony with the environment. It is better to use the same variety, since planting, for example, a strong-growing variety among weak-growing varieties will negatively affect other plants.
A new bush can be transplanted in April or October, having previously dug up the old plant and completely replaced the ground with a new one to a depth of up to half a meter, within a radius of about 30 cm. For greater convenience, all necessary work it is recommended to prune adjacent rose bushes before transplanting. And in order for an adult rose bush to take root better in a new place, after transplanting in the first year, all emerging buds should be removed from it.
Rose transplant
What to consider when transplanting roses
The best time to transplant roses is in early spring, before the buds open, or in October, three weeks before the hard frost. AT spring time roses should be transplanted in the late afternoon, or in cloudy weather.
Before transplanting, overgrown spray roses are cut to 20 cm, climbing varieties- half, and standard ones - by a third. You should also remove weak and broken branches, cut off the leaves from the plant.
When digging up a rose intended for transplantation, it is important to know whether it is a native or grafted bush. In the first case, the root system is located superficially in the ground, in the second case, the taproot goes deep into the soil. Given these features, try to remove the rose bush from the ground as carefully as possible along with the earthy clod. Especially do not worry that some of the roots will still be lost - everything will be restored in a couple of weeks. Roots that are too long need to be trimmed.
A dug up rose can be transferred to a new place by tying the root system in a cloth.
A dug up rose can be transferred to a new place by tying the root system in a cloth so that the clod of earth does not fall apart and the roots are not damaged. Plant the plant directly with the fabric - it will soon rot in the ground.
Pit preparation
Prepare the landing pit begin three weeks before the proposed transplant. The size of the new planting hole should be no less than the hole from which the rose bush was dug. The average diameter of the pit is about 60 cm, the depth is 45 cm. Loosen the bottom of the pit and cover it with soil mixed with compost, and cover it with ordinary soil on top so as not to burn the roots of roses. Water the hole well before planting the rose.
Planting a rose
The grafted rose is placed in the planting hole so that the root neck is five centimeters below ground level. In a self-rooted rose, a clod of earth with roots should be on a par with the surface of the earth. Cover the established plant with garden soil, lightly tamp and water abundantly.
Video about the correct planting of roses
Rose fertilizer
Around transplanted rose bush at a distance of 15 cm from the shoots, apply mineral fertilizers intended for roses (with autumn transplant nitrogen fertilizers exclude), loosen the ground again to a depth of no more than 10 cm and water. Mulch the surface of the soil around the rose with well-rotted manure. For the winter, do not forget to spud the bushes and remove all unripe shoots.
In the next three years after the transplant, try not to move freshly planted roses to a new place anymore - let the plants come to their senses.
Pelargonium prefers drought rather than excessive moisture. The plant is recommended to be watered rarely, but plentifully. So how do you water? Optimal - 2 times a week. Excessively moist soil can cause mold to appear on the leaves of the flower. One of the signs of improper watering is yellowed leaves, a fading plant. The soil in the pot should be slightly damp.
Important! Do not spray the leaves, this can lead to burns.
The importance of proper fertilization
The choice of fertilizer for pelargonium is an important issue. The flower does not need organic feeding. Geranium requires a complex of mineral fertilizers with potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. Which must be applied in equal portions. But first, the dose of nitrogen decreases, and the dose of potassium, on the contrary, increases.
When and in what cases is top dressing required?
In winter, the flower does not require fertilizer. The indoor pet is fed only in the spring-summer period. It is enough to carry out the procedure twice a month, an hour after abundant watering.
Sick pelargoniums cannot be fertilized.
You can not fertilize pelargonium if it has been in the bright sun all day. The flower must be shaded, then watered, and only then applied necessary substances. Pelargonium can not be fertilized 2 weeks before transplantation and within a week after it.
What and how to fertilize?
The main rule of plant nutrition is compliance with the dose of fertilizers. Withered or yellowed leaves indicate an overabundance of nutrients.
Nitrogen substances must be applied only after.
- To prevent burns of geranium roots, liquid fertilizers should be applied only after watering.
- After adding minerals, the ground under the plant needs to be loosened.
What to feed for the formation of buds?
For abundant flowering, the culture must be fed. mineral fertilizers. One-component top dressing is required - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iodine.
Reference! Phosphorus is essential for bud formation. Its deficiency slows down the process. With a lack of potassium, culture growth stops. Nitrogen promotes stem, leaf and root growth.
It is recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers in the spring- during the period of active growth of pelargonium. The most popular nitrogen fertilizers are ammonium sulfate and ammonium nitrate. You can use ready-made mineral compositions with a high nitrogen content for indoor flowering plants. You can buy them in specialized stores.
To achieve active flowering, you can use vitamins as top dressing, which are sold in a pharmacy in the form of ampoules - B1, B6 and B12. They are introduced by the method of alternation - the vitamin ampoule is diluted in 2 liters. water, the resulting solution is abundantly watered bush. After 2-3 weeks, another vitamin is used according to the same scheme. Vitamin dressings increase the quality of budding and the immunity of the flower. It is advisable to use them in spring and summer.
How to fertilize pelargonium for lush flowering explained in this video:
Folk ways
What if you did something wrong?
- Excess fertilizer can lead to the development of root rot. And with a deficiency of nutrients, geranium leaves lose their elasticity and brightness.
- If the pet does not bloom, then perhaps flower pot too much or too much nitrogen fertilizer in the soil.
- Overfeeding pelargonium provokes an increase in the mass of green leaves, while the peduncles, meanwhile, weaken.
The flora is rich and varied. Some cultures love shade and moisture, others grow only on sunny places and dry soils. What do irises love? How easy is it to grow them in your backyard? How to care for irises in the country? About all this - further.
The nuances of care and cultivation of irises in the open field
This plant cannot be called capricious. But for healthy growth and beautiful flowering, he still needs several conditions. In addition, it should be borne in mind that they are different in bearded, beardless and bulbous species.
Landing time
In the spring, from March to May, as soon as the earth warms up, already acquired for winter period planting material, regardless of its type. That is, both rhizomatous and bulbous varieties. On condition proper fit Iris will bloom in early summer.
Important! A culture grown from a bulb in the spring is very likely to bloom only next year.
June - July is the best time for breeding. Iris shoots are rooted in greenhouse conditions, but can also be grown in open field, creating a small greenhouse above the sprout. However, the most successful method of division is still rhizome. The plant must have time to take root in order to endure the winter cold.
At the end of August, it is time to plant bulbous iris species. They will delight with their flowering in early spring.
In the autumn, a month before the onset of cold weather, all transplants in the open field should be completed. At the same time, you can sow iris seeds in pots for propagation at home.
Place for planting in open ground
Contrary to erroneous opinion, iris for the most part does not like shady places and excess moisture. Grown with a lack of light, on moist soils it loses its decorative effect and blooms for a short period. This does not apply to swamp varieties. But they also can not stand stagnant water in the ground. When planting a plant in the garden, it is recommended to choose a place protected from strong winds. Otherwise, it will have to be additionally strengthened with supports.
Planting irises
Soil composition requirements
Culture saves abundant flowering and healthy growth in fertile, loamy soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Large doses of nitrogen in the earth cause various diseases irises. acidic soils will not allow the culture to bloom.
You can deoxidize the soil by adding chalk, ash, lime. In soil with a high percentage of peat, it is recommended to add organic matter before planting. In clay - sand or compost.
Important! Application fresh manure as a top dressing causes rot on iris tubers.
Watering
feeding requirements
- before flowering (during the period of tying buds);
- after flowering is completed (to prepare for winter).
Additional requirements
Shelter - some varieties of rhizomatous irises need it for the winter. Digging - bulbs after flowering (May, June) are recommended to be removed from the soil before autumn planting.
Iris bulbs
How to care for irises outdoors in July and August
During these summer months, almost all varieties of irises finish their flowering. Time to propagate, transplant and start preparing for the winter dormancy period.
reproduction
What to do with irises in July? By mid-summer, the culture has a well-developed root system and sprouts appear on it. It is during this period that it is easier to propagate them by dividing the bush:
Additional Information. Flowering is the optimal time for breeding. Therefore, in the markets you can find planting material with peduncles.
Transfer
What to do with irises in August? The last month of summer is favorable for transplanting.
The soil should be prepared in advance. About a week before the event, it is necessary to dig the earth to the depth of a shovel, apply fertilizer so as not to burn the roots of the plant.
Important! best time change the landing site is considered the third week after the end of the flowering period.
Fertilization
When preparing a crop for winter, you need to take care of top dressing. Phosphorus-potassium compounds are applied in July or August after the flowering of irises, according to the instructions on the packages. Phosphorus will strengthen the roots of the plant, and potassium will allow you to lay healthy buds of future flower stalks.
Important! Top dressings are applied under the root on moist soil and by the “by leaf” method.
Planting bulbous
In order for the planting material to adapt in the ground before the cold weather, it is recommended to plant it already in the third decade of August or early September. The process takes very little time:
- loosen the earth in a small space and make a recess;
- lightly press the bulbs into the ground and level it;
- mulch planting with compost;
- cover from penetration excess moisture non-hygroscopic material.
Important! To prevent rotting of the bulbs, you should not water them when planting. Abundant growth during this period of summer is enough for rooting.
give beautiful view a flower bed of irises can be formed by forming it compactly, in small figures.
How to feed irises
AT spring period to help the plant quickly form green shoots, it is recommended to fertilize the soil with complex mixtures. A well-developed root system is essential for healthy growth. Phosphorus promotes this process. And to grow beautiful and large green leaves, nitrogen is required, which comes from the soil through the roots. Nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers are best applied at the very beginning of the growing season. It is allowed to feed the plant even in the snow at the end of March, the first days of April.
When it comes to flowering, potassium is needed. It is he who will help the plant to bloom magnificently and for a long time. With a lack of one of the elements in feeding, the cost of its implementation will not be successful. Therefore, the use of two or three-component formulations is recommended. Irrigation of phosphoric potash fertilizers improve the quality and size of flowers.
How to feed irises after flowering in July? Having given strength to the formation of peduncles and the ground part, the plant is weakened. Therefore, it is susceptible to various diseases. Another source of potassium is wood ash. It can be sprinkled on the ground around the crop, reducing the acidity of the soil and preventing fungal infections.
Top dressing of irises with potash fertilizers with the addition of phosphorus is repeated 3–4 weeks after flowering, when next year's buds begin to form and new roots grow.
Additional Information: it is recommended to add 3–5% sulfur powder to the compositions of autumn top dressing to prevent bacteriosis.
For plants of the first year of life, the rate of fertilizers indicated in the instructions is halved.
Timing and sequence of transplantation
To preserve the decorativeness of the variety, it is recommended to change the planting site of the plant every 3-5 years. You can transplant the culture during the entire growing season. When to dig up irises for transplanting? The best time is considered July or early August. If you plan to fertilize the soil, this should be done in advance. But in order not to burn the young roots, you can feed the flowers after rooting. Transplantation and subsequent care of irises requires a sequence:
- the plant is removed from the soil;
- flower stalks are cut, leaving a couple of centimeters from the root;
- the leaves are shortened to a height of 8–10 cm, giving the shape of a pitched roof;
- cut the roots by 1/3, dry ones are removed;
- the rhizome is divided into parts, each of which has a growth point or a bunch of leaves;
- if rot was removed on the rhizome, then it is treated with a weak solution of manganese;
- sprinkle cut points wood ash or crushed activated carbon and dried in air for 2–3 days;
- make a depression in the soil, add 200 g of sand, compost, ash and mix;
- they form an elevation, the main root is placed on it, and the young roots-threads are straightened below, in the direction of growth;
- sprinkle with earth, lightly tamp, leaving a recess for irrigation around the perimeter;
- if the planting is not single, observe the distance between the divisions from 30 to 70 cm, depending on the size of the roots.
Important! The back of the rhizome should be visible above the ground after planting.
Before the onset of cold weather, the culture will have time to take root and, under cover, will successfully endure the winter frosts. There is no need to extract it from the ground.
How to store irises before planting in the fall
When it comes time to dig up irises, you need to think about storing them for future planting. Bulbous plant varieties are taken out of the ground after flowering in 20 days. Do not wait until the leaves begin to turn yellow. The bulbs are dug up, cleaned from the ground. Wash with disinfectant if necessary. The roots are cut to 1–2 cm, dried in a warm, ventilated room. Then, before planting, place in a cool place.
Thanks to the refined and unusual shape, a diverse palette of colors, this plant has taken a strong position in landscape design. In addition, caring for irises in the garden and on household plots does not require much effort. And the result of observing the basic rules of cultivation will be their abundant, lush and bright flowering.
How to fertilize garden trees when transplanting- today we will dwell on this issue, since a misconception about this process can lead to the death of a tree.
Transplantation plants are most easily tolerated in the fall during a period of natural deep dormancy. Therefore, it is highly desirable to transplant seedlings of decorative and fruit crops after the completion of their growing season. In principle, fruit trees can also be planted in winter and spring, but the outside temperature must necessarily exceed zero degrees.
For successful transplantation and survival of seedlings, the following sequence of actions is important - first cooling, then leaf fall, as a result, the plants go into a dormant stage, and only after this period seedlings should be transplanted. Do not confuse! During this period, just a transplant gives, according to observations, the largest percentage of survival.
Planting a garden does not mean that you will always have a stable harvest. In the process of growth, each tree needs everything large quantity various nutritional ingredients. It's a paradox, but the less fertilizer you apply, the better they are absorbed by the tree itself. And the more fertilizer there is, the higher the likelihood of dying off the roots or other diseases. It is especially important to feed a tree when transplanting it even a short distance from the main place in the garden, not to mention changing the soil. It loses about eighty percent of the roots in this case.
When the roots come into direct contact with undecomposed organic matter, nitrogen or potassium, then it is then that they can become dead and the tree die. Therefore, do not rush to immediately fertilize, but simply loosen the ground more often, water and monitor the water temperature during the irrigation process. But when new roots grow, then pour the tree trunks with weak solutions of complex fertilizers or put well-rotted manure and dig the ground with it shallowly. Such prepared manure, humus, compost can be mixed and added to the pit when filling it up after transplanting seedlings.
Organic fertilizers play a physical role in plant life. They improve its structure and at the same time nourish the plants. In addition, this type of fertilizer perfectly mulches the soil around the tree. Under raspberries, such a mulch should always be kept. And so that the earth does not dry out and always “holds” the temperature that is necessary and comfortable for raspberries, the mulch is covered from above with straw or white sponbond. Nitrogen should only be applied to the trunk circle when necessary and only when you are convinced that the trees have fully taken root.
Competent and timely fertilization is a guarantee harmonious development seedlings. However, many gardeners are ill-informed about when and what kind of dressing to apply. This article will help you understand all the intricacies of an important process aimed at increasing the productivity of plant growth.
Proper fertilization of the soil will create favorable conditions for the existence of crops and avoid problems in the future. But it is necessary to fertilize with knowledge of the matter. Uncontrolled introduction of organic matter or complex dressings can harm. So, how to feed the seedlings?
Young plants primarily need phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. Usually it is they that are lacking in the soil, which means that this should be compensated. Hydrogen, oxygen, carbon are no less important components of "excellent health". If the nutritional value of the soil leaves much to be desired, then the seedlings will lack these elements of the periodic table. But calcium, sulfur, magnesium, manganese at the beginning of the journey requires a minimum amount.
The need for certain fertilizers depends on the type of crops that you have planted. So, pears and apple trees in more need organic. Cherry and apricot - in minerals.
How to find out what exactly is missing?
If the seedlings are not rooting well, you should take a closer look at them. With careful visual inspection you will definitely find characteristics deficiency of an element.
Thin weak stems, small pale leaves indicate that the seedlings lack nitrogen. Leaves dry at the edges, turn yellow or brown? You need potassium. An acute shortage of magnesium manifests itself in the form of blanching of the leaves, which subsequently turn yellow and fall off.
Small and almost black foliage, mainly in the lower part of the plant, is a signal that phosphorus should be fed. Intensive wilting of leaves and shoots indicates a lack of iron. Most often, raspberries, grapes, apple trees, and plums need iron. But when there is not enough copper, the leaves at the tips brighten, become lethargic and soon die off.
Phosphorus and potassium: what you need to know
Experts advise to make phosphorus and potassium only in the 4th year after planting. It is better to do this in the fall, because. such complexes contain hardly digestible substances. An exception is made for fruit-bearing plants - they are fed in the spring.
Many make such fertilizers during fruit set. And they do it right - it favorably affects the quality and quantity of the crop.
So what fertilizers for seedlings containing potassium and phosphorus should be applied first?
- potassium sulfate used as the main fertilizer for fruit-bearing crops. The content of the main active ingredient is 50%. It is applied mainly in spring;
- potassium salt. Universal top dressing is suitable for any type of crops. The content of the main substance is 40%. It is brought in in the fall;
- superphosphate. Fertilizer in granules. The content of phosphoric acid - up to 20%. It is brought in at the rate of 35-40 gr/m2;
- phosphate rock. Not only a valuable fertilizer, but also an effective neutralizer hyperacidity soil. Phosphorus content varies from 15 to 35%. Designed to feed any fruit trees.
There are special mixtures containing other substances in addition to potassium and phosphorus. For example, nitrophoska and diammofoska include potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen in different ratios.
Nitrogen: when and how to apply?
If the soil was fertilized with nitrogen during planting, then the first top dressing is practiced in the 3rd year after planting. Most of nitrogen is introduced in the spring, less - in the fall. Calculate as follows: 20 g / m2 (for poor soils) or 10 g / m2 (for fertile soils). If you plan to apply nitrogen, then you should use:
- urea (carbimide). Contains rapidly digestible nitrogen. Young plantings can be fertilized with urea in two ways: by instilling a dry mixture into tree trunks or spraying the trunk and leaves with a solution (for this, 0.5 kg of urea is dissolved in a bucket of water);
- ammonium nitrate. Feeding in granules is well absorbed by seedlings. Saltpeter can be used in dry (15 g / m2) and liquid (25 g / bucket of water) form;
- compost, bird droppings and manure. Designed to feed the soil of medium fertility. Contains a small amount of nitrogen. Optimal as an addition to other mineral complexes.
Weak seedlings should not be fertilized with nitrogen. This will significantly extend the growing season and reduce frost resistance.
Organics: rules to remember
The most useful fertilizer for seedlings is manure. It should be made in the 3rd year. Especially valuable chicken manure. They fertilize the land in the spring at the rate of 5 kg / m2. For fertilizing fruit trees, manure is diluted with water (1 kg / bucket of water) and infused for 4-5 days. In autumn, the dosage of manure is reduced to 0.3 kg/m2. Manure from domestic animals is brought in only in a rotted state. Fertilize with manure once every 3 years. If the land is very poor, you can once every 2 years.
Another useful organic fertilizer- peat. Improves air permeability and soil structure. Furnace ash reduces the acidity of the earth. Make it at the rate of 100 g / m2. Mix with other organics or prepare a solution.
Compost deserves special attention. It is introduced in the first year after planting. Increases the nutritional value of the soil, enriches it with humus and improves aeration. Contains substances necessary for seedlings to grow.
High-quality compost can successfully replace any mineral mixtures. It is also easy to make compost. To do this, they dig a trench in the fall and fill it with leaves, grass, sawdust, tops, tea leaves and other waste. compost pit they fall asleep with earth and safely forget about it until spring. During the winter, everything that you threw into it will turn into a wonderful fertilizer.
The interval between top dressing is 2 seasons. Optimal time for fertilizer with compost - September-October. Important: the compost is lightly dug into upper layer land or simply laid out near tree trunks.
Don't know what else to feed the seedlings? Well proven ready-made fertilizers- Aquarin, Kemira, Ecofoska, AVA, Uniflor-growth, Florist, Ferovit, Uniflor. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions (the composition of the drugs is different) and follow the dosage.
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