In the fall, when the entire crop has already been harvested, work in orchard do not end. Until the site is covered with snow, there is a lot to do. How to prepare the garden for winter?
In autumn, trees and shrubs call for special attention. In October, remove the remaining fruits, bury the carrion deep into the ground, carefully inspect the plants and assess their condition. It is possible that they will have to be treated, since trees and shrubs should winter healthy.
leaf cleaning
Gather the leaves carefully with a rake. If your trees and shrubs have not been affected by diseases and pests, send the foliage to the compost heap or warm beds, use as mulch for overwintering flowers. But keep in mind: leaves infected with scab, powdery mildew and other diseases are not suitable for this. Take them out of the area and burn them.
Do not forget to remove the leaves from the roofs of buildings
Caring for fruit trees in autumn
The harvest largely depends on the activities carried out in the fall. next year. Therefore, do not send trees for the winter in an untidy form.
Remove old dead bark, moss and lichen. Pest larvae like to winter under them, so in the spring it is important not to leave insects a single chance. Also, remove all trap belts. Disposable (paper) - burn, and fabric - wash, dry and put away until spring.
tree pruning
Before the onset of frost in dry weather, prune fruit trees. Using a sharp pruner or garden saw, completely remove dry, damaged, diseased, and inward-growing branches. Then treat the sections with a solution blue vitriol(Dissolve 1 tsp of the substance in 1 liter of water) and cover with garden pitch or oil paint.
Treatment against diseases and pests
After leaf fall, proceed to autumn processing garden. If you notice signs of mold on the trees, spray the plants with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. To get rid of pathogens of coccomycosis, scab, powdery mildew and other common diseases, treat crowns with urea (0.5 kg of urea per 10 liters of water). Also spray the soil around the trees, only with a more concentrated solution (1 kg of urea per 10 liters of water).
Urea treatment helps to destroy pests wintering in the topsoil and on tree branches
In the fight against pests, loosening the soil with a pitchfork in tree trunks to a depth of 20 cm helps. After this procedure, insect larvae appear on the surface of the earth and die during severe frosts.
Autumn top dressing of trees
As organic fertilizers at this time of the year, they use slurry diluted 1:10, compost (for trees from 1 to 7 years old - 1.5-2 kg per 1 sq. M of the trunk circle, for trees over 7 years old - 2-3 kg), ash (100 g per 10 liters of water), humus (1/2 bucket per 1 sq. M of the trunk circle).
In autumn, fruit trees also need mineral fertilizers, with the exception of nitrogen, which activates growth processes that are undesirable at this time and reduces the winter hardiness of plants. In the near-trunk circle of each tree, add phosphorus potash fertilizer.
For trees under the age of 10 years, use 2 tbsp per 1 sq.m of the near-stem circle. superphosphate and 1 tbsp. potassium chloride. Feed trees older than 10 years at the rate of 4 tbsp. superphosphate and 2 tbsp. potassium chloride. Feed cherries and plums with 3 tbsp. superphosphate and 2 tbsp. potassium sulfate diluted in 10 liters of water. For each mature tree use 4 buckets of this fertilizer.
Abundant watering
It is important that fruit trees do not dry out for the winter. If the autumn was not rainy enough, water the soil well in the near-stem circles. During moisture-charging autumn watering, spend on mature plant about 50 liters of water. Water the trees in stages: about 12-15 liters per hour. The soil should become wet to a depth of about 1 m. At the same time, keep in mind that the water temperature should be 5 ° C higher than the air temperature outside.
After watering, mulch the tree trunks with peat, spruce branches, humus or compost. This will help keep moisture in the soil.
Autumn whitewashing of trees
To protect trees from pests and spring sunburn, whiten the trunks to the base of the lower skeletal branches. Use ready-made whitewash (sold in garden stores) or cook it yourself: dilute 3 kg of lime and 500 g of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water.
Autumn whitewashing of the garden is carried out in October-November
Protection of trees from rodents
Hares and mice love to eat the bark of fruit trees in winter. Rodents can cause serious damage to plants, especially young seedlings. To prevent this from happening, wrap the trunks to a height of 50-100 cm with nylon tights, roofing material or cut plastic bottles.
Shelter of grapes for the winter
Grapes are a rather whimsical crop, so in the fall it requires special care. After the foliage has fallen, cut the vine, treat the bush with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate, and then cover the grapes with spruce branches, reed mats, straw or other materials for winter shelter of plants.
Preparing for winter shrubs
In autumn, remove unnecessary shoots, diseased, dried and old branches from berry bushes.
Make cuts above the kidney, which is directed outward of the bush
In addition, at black currant cut at the root of all branches over 5 years old, red and white currant cut branches older than 8 years. This will allow young shoots to start growing faster in spring. In order for the bushes to overwinter better, after pruning, feed them with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer (for example, use 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate for each plant).
bushes gooseberry in autumn, 30-50 g of double superphosphate are fertilized (applied to the ground to a depth of 7 cm) and 20-25 g of potassium sulfate under each bush. Under digging, you can make 2-3 tbsp. ash on a bush. Pruned bushes in the fall annually, after they reach 6 years of age. All dry, diseased and unproductive branches are subject to removal. Root shoots are cut as they grow.
On the bushes summer raspberries cut out all fruit-bearing, diseased and bush-thickening branches. Leave only healthy annual shoots. If necessary, bend them to the ground so that the plants overwinter better. branches remontant raspberry cut near the ground (but you can do this in early spring).
Feed raspberries effectively with rotted manure (6 kg per 1 sq.m of soil), diluted chicken manure(1:12), as an alternative, you can use double superphosphate in the amount of 20 g per 1 m of the raspberry row.
Now you know how to prepare the garden for winter and competently take care of fruit trees and berry bushes. We hope that your green pets will winter safely and will give a good harvest of delicious fruits next season.
Young trees need regular care and watering in order to make it easier for them to take root in open field and develop properly.
We hasten to warn you that for trees recently planted in the ground, you need special care, which is different from that which is used for already rooted and fruit-bearing trees. Of course, there are similar procedures, however, the frequency and intensity of their implementation will differ.
Vegetable crops, strawberries and potatoes are cultivated in the aisles of the young garden. It is undesirable to plant bushes of currants, gooseberries, raspberries and other crops under the crown of fruit trees.
Fruit tree care
In young gardens, it is necessary to achieve an annual growth of shoots of at least 40-50 cm, and in plantations that have come into fruition - 30-35 cm. With this in mind, the doses of applied organic and mineral fertilizers:
- If the growth is weak, then the plants are not sufficiently provided with nutrients. In autumn, manure, compost, phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied to the near-stem area with a circle diameter of 2-2.5 m.
- Then the soil is dug up directly under the crowns of trees to a depth of 10-12 cm, and behind the projection of the branches - by 18-20 cm (taking into account the depth of the roots).
- Usually, in young gardens, based on one near-trunk area (with a circle diameter of 2-2.5 m), 25-30 kg of manure or 40-45 g of a.i. is applied in a year. phosphoric and 50-60 g a.i. potash fertilizers. Nitrogen fertilizers - 40-50 g a.i. contribute annually in two doses - in early spring (50%) and at the beginning of increased growth of shoots (50%).
The best results are achieved by those who, in early spring and 10-15 days after flowering, use slurry diluted with water (1:3), a solution of mullein (1:8), (1:15) or ammonium nitrate as top dressings for fruit trees (30-35 g per 10 liters of water). After the June shedding of the ovaries, the trees are fed with a complex of mineral fertilizers (nitrogen, phosphorus, potash). When fertilizing apple trees, fertilizers are applied not close to the stem of the tree, but into annular grooves dug along the periphery of the crown. Water the trees immediately after feeding. warm water.
Top dressing of fruit trees in areas with sandy soil
Manure, phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied annually, and nitrogen fertilizers are applied in early spring and during the period of active shoot growth. Fruit trees react positively to spraying with a weak solution of urea (50 g of urea per 10 liters of water) immediately after the leaves bloom and two weeks after flowering. Before leaf fall, but still on green leaves, the trees are sprayed with a more concentrated solution of urea (350-400 g of urea per 10 liters of water). These measures improve the supply of plants with nutrients and suppress the development of fungal diseases.
Fruit trees are most demanding on water in spring and in the first half of summer.
During the dry season, water them more often and more abundantly. It is usually watered at the beginning of flowering, a week after flowering and after harvesting. In practice, it is enough to water fruit trees once every two to three weeks (depending on soil moisture). Frequent and excessively abundant watering is harmful both to the soil (nutrients are washed out) and to the roots (oxygen starvation appears). In the second half of summer, tree feeding is stopped, watering is limited so as not to cause prolonged growth of shoots and a decrease in winter hardiness of trees.
On flat areas, soil turfing in the aisles of the garden is carried out only after the trees enter the time of full fruiting. Before sodding in autumn, organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to the site in high doses, embedding them in deeper layers of the soil. In the spring, the surface of the site is leveled with a rake, grass mixture is sown per 1 sq. m area 3 g of fescue, 2 g of bluegrass meadow, the soil is rolled and mulched with peat, humus. Then sprinkler irrigation is carried out. The green mass of grasses is mowed at least 5-6 times during the growing season and left in place in quality.
Grasses remove many nutrients from the soil. Given this, when sodding the soil, fertilizing with slurry after flowering is mandatory, after two weeks - with mineral fertilizers (80 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium salt and 50 g of urea per 10 l of water). After fertilizing, water abundantly with water. In the autumn, once every 2-3 years, two annular grooves are dug under the crown of a fruit tree, where they are brought in at the rate of 1 running meter 10 kg of rotted manure, 150 superphosphate and 100 g of potassium chloride and dig up the soil.
Autumn and winter care for apple and pear trees
In autumn (October), boles and bases of skeletal branches of old trees are cleaned of dead bark, whitened lime mortar(2.5 kg of lime, 0.5 kg of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). Young trees are whitewashed with a chalk solution. For the winter, the stems and bases of the skeletal branches of apple and pear trees are tightly tied against rodents with raspberry stems, young branches of cherry, hazel, and willow. For these purposes, you can use roofing felt, roofing material and wire mesh, after tying the trunks of trees with matting or burlap. Roofing felt and roofing material are whitened from above with lime (chalk) mortar. Used nylon stockings and fiberglass are also used to tie the stem of trees for the winter.
In winter, boles and bases of skeletal branches are covered with snow. On the warmest days, the snow around the trunk is compacted with a foot so that mice cannot get through. After every heavy snowfall, the trees are spudded with snow. In the spring, they make sure that the heavy snow crust does not break the branches.
Some gardeners mistakenly believe that by covering snow at the end of winter under the crowns of fruit trees with a thick layer of sawdust, straw, peat or manure, you can push the start of flowering to a later date and avoid frost damage to flowers. This technique does not bring the desired results, since it only delays the thawing of the soil, and not flowering. Buds in the crown of an apple tree bloom at an average daily air temperature in the garden of 8-9 degrees Celsius, regardless of the soil temperature in the root zone. At average daily air temperatures of 10-12 degrees Celsius, the flowering period begins. Shelter of snow under the crowns of trees with a thick layer of peat, sawdust, manure disrupts the provision of branches with water and nutrients.
Some gardeners pre-place containers (tub, barrel) with warm water under low-growing trees, and in the evening before frosts, the tree and the water container are covered with a synthetic film. During the warmest hours of the day, the film is removed so that the flowers are pollinated by bees.
At the end of May, trapping belts (made of paper, burlap) are placed on the trunks and bases of the skeletal branches of fruit-bearing apple trees, where they climb. They are periodically destroyed.
Harvest
It is very important to correctly determine the removable maturity of the fruit. At this time, the growth of apples in volume stops, summer varieties acquire a characteristic color and taste, and easily come off the fruit. The fruits of summer varieties of pears are removed a little earlier before they acquire a bright color in order to prevent their overripeness. Pre-prepared for harvesting fruits garden stairs, baskets-columns lined with burlap inside, boxes and packaging material (wood chips). The fruits are removed in the morning after the dew has dried, sorted, stored in a fruit storage, cellars, cellars, where the temperature is maintained from 0 to 3 degrees Celsius, air humidity -85-90%.
Save so you don't lose!
garden care in autumn period consists of a set of works that must be carried out on time and in accordance with all the rules.
Caring for fruit trees in October consists of a thorough check of plants, pruning and removal of shoots and tops, as well as whitewashing boles.
In November, it is necessary to collect and burn fallen or cut branches and leaves. It is also recommended to dig up the soil around the trees this month. When digging, plants can be fed - add superphosphate (100 g under a tree), potash and nitrogen fertilizers (50 g under a tree).
Pruning fruit trees
Spend autumn in the garden sanitary pruning. It consists in removing all weak and crossing shoots from the trees, as well as broken and dried branches. This must be done because pests or pathogens may well hide on such branches.
Apples, pears, plums and other fruit trees are very convenient to cut in the fall, after harvesting. Trees can usually be pruned before the first frost. In November, it is no longer worth disturbing the plants: it is already cold enough for this.
To do everything right, carefully inspect the trees, make sure that the branches of each grow correctly and do not create obstacles for each other. Anything that interferes must be removed. You can form a tree crown using a pruner (cuts branches with a diameter of up to 26 mm) and a delimber (cuts branches with a diameter of up to 40 mm).
Removing tops on trees
Spinning tops are strong, fattening shoots with big leaves and underdeveloped kidneys. Most often they form on old skeletal branches. Usually tops grow from dormant buds, starting to develop actively. Why are wolves so dangerous? They take away the strength of the tree, thicken its crown, and they never bear fruit.
Tops grow on a young fruit crop after the tree has been damaged. For example, you cut a large branch or it broke on its own. In old fruit trees, fattening shoots may appear after pruning. Also, excessive feeding can provoke the growth of tops. nitrogen fertilizer and abundant watering.
You can get rid of tops with pruning. Her goal in this case is not only to thin out and lighten the crown of the tree, but also to form new young shoots, direct them along such a trajectory so that they do not thicken the crown. It is necessary to remove the fattening branches inside the crown on the ring. After cutting the tops, the wounds on the tree should be treated with garden pitch.
Protecting the bark of fruit trees
Sharp temperature changes during weather changes often lead to the fact that cracks (frost cracks) appear on the bark of fruit trees. These faults are quite deep and cause significant damage to plants. In addition, cracks can occur under the influence of the active sun (sunburn), strong wind or night chills. Pests can also cause cracks in the bark. fruit crops.
To protect the trees, trunks should be covered with whitewash or a special protective fiber in autumn. This is necessary in order to protect the trunk from direct sunlight. Whitewash can be prepared independently. To do this, dilute 2.5 kg of lime, 0.5 kg of copper sulfate for disinfection and 0.1 kg of wood glue in 10 liters of water for a stronger “adhesion” to the bark.
To protect trees from damage by insects or rodents, it is necessary to use special protective nets that are wrapped around the trunk.
Autumn top dressing of fruit trees
Autumn top dressing of trees is carried out after harvesting. It is performed to improve the soil, which has been depleted over the season. In autumn, fruit trees need to be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, preferably without nitrogen content (diammophoska, nitrophos, superphosphate).
Fertilizers are applied to the near-trunk circles - under the roots of trees. foliar top dressing useless at this time of year. Depending on which fertilizer you choose (liquid or dry), the principle of their application depends.
Liquid fertilizers are applied into special grooves made in the trunk circle around the tree. The more grooves, the better the effect.
To apply dry fertilizer, you must first remove upper layer soil (1-2 cm) in the near-trunk circle, evenly distribute fertilizer and return the earth back.
In autumn, it is best to use the second feeding option, since in this way fertilizers will be absorbed by plants gradually, coming to the roots along with melted snow. Liquid formulations more effective in spring and summer.
As a dry fertilizer, superphosphate can be applied at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq.m of the trunk circle and potash fertilizers at the rate of 50 g per 1 sq.m. After fertilizing, the soil in the near-stem circle should be covered with a layer of mowed grass - it will act as mulch.
Autumn pruning fruit.
Pruning fruit trees in the fall can be performed in 2 types:
- thinning;
- shortening.
thinning consists in cutting the branches of a tree at their very base. It allows you to improve the access of air to the tree and provide more branches with sunlight, which is necessary for a decent harvest. Thinning of young trees is carried out until the formation of the crown. To do this, weak or unevenly distributed shoots are removed. For adult trees with an already formed crown, thinning is carried out once every 2-3 years, in this case, incorrectly growing shoots are also removed, which only drown out other branches.
Shortening- this is the cutting of the upper segment of the shoot at the level of the kidney. This pruning allows you to control the growth of branches and, therefore, the size of the crown, increase the yield of the tree and promote the development of side shoots. If the shoot is growing in the wrong direction, shortening can also help - the cut branch begins to grow again in the right direction.
autumn pruning carried out after the fall of the leaves. Dried, broken, rotten branches are cut off, which also grow in the wrong direction.
If the tree has grown very actively and the crown does not allow enough light to pass through, then additional summer pruning is carried out.
It is advisable to foresee these moments in the spring, because then the tree is at rest and it is easier to tolerate the procedure.
An important point: winter pruning is carried out only in regions with a warm climate, because in the cold the branches can be too fragile and break, which will damage the bark. The same point should be taken into account when pruning in autumn. The procedure must be carried out before the first frost.
Broken and dried branches are removed in autumn. First, the weakest shoots are removed, then growing at an acute angle. In order for the cut to heal quickly and successfully, it is treated with garden pitch or paint on oil based. Cut branches can be burned or buried.
plum pruning
In autumn, you need to be careful with pruning. There is a risk that wrong actions, in summer the tree will not bear fruit. Therefore, in the fall, it is only desirable to remove dried and diseased branches.
Autumn top dressing of fruit
September-October fruit trees and shrubs need to be fed only with phosphate (superphosphate) and potash (potassium sulfate) fertilizers. The main phosphate fertilizer is superphosphate. Usually on sale it can be found with the markings "simple" and "double". The use of double superphosphate is more convenient. This fertilizer is produced in the form of a powder or (more often) dark gray granules.
Surface (scattered, without embedding) application of superphosphate for fruit crops is completely useless. Phosphate fertilizers must be embedded in the root layer of the soil. For fruit crops to a depth of not less than 10-15 cm, for berries - about 7-10 cm. Of course, not at the very trunk or base of the bush (there are practically no active suction roots), but along the periphery of the trunk circle.
Potassium for preparing plants for winter is no less important, and possibly more than phosphorus. It is also only available in powder form. Instead, you can use potassium chloride for top dressing and for the main application. It is usually cheaper, also contains about 50% potassium in terms of oxide, in addition, this fertilizer has chlorine. For most fruit plants it is not dangerous, say, an apple tree and a pear are not afraid of chlorine ions. But some crops are sensitive to chlorine. For example, it is better to add potassium sulfate or ash under the berries. Row vegetable crops, such as potatoes and tomatoes, will also prefer chlorine-free fertilizers.Autumn top dressing of fruit very important, because it is a guarantee good harvest and disease resistance.
Potassium sulphate is the best potash fertilizer, because. does not contain harmful impurities of chlorine, sodium and magnesium (add 5-10g per square meter), which cannot be said about potassium chloride, which contains harmful chlorine. If you add potassium chloride, then you need to do this in advance so that the chlorine is washed out in the lower layers of the soil, but this also does not make it easier for worms and bacteria.
Phosphorus and potassium can be added together. To increase the effect of the use of phosphate fertilizers, they are applied with organic matter. For 10 kg of peat, humus or compost, we take 300 g of double superphosphate, mix and moisten. Such a mixture ripens for 1-2 months, after which it is laid in the near-trunk circles, embedding as deep as possible, and also brought into the planting pits, adding potassium.
Work in the garden in September.
Harvest autumn varieties of apples, pears, as well as plums, nuts, sea buckthorn, black elderberry. Leave some of the small fruits on the branches for the birds. Remove from the trunks and burn the hunting belts, remove lichens and flaky bark, whiten the stems water-based paint. From mid-September, stop feeding shrubs and trees. In September, it's time to purchase fruit tree seedlings and prepare planting pits. start autumn plantings. Until mid-September, complete the planting of garden strawberries.Work in the garden in October.
Whitewashing is unnecessary for young trees with smooth bark, but it is necessary to tie a bole and skeletal branches with light paper, preferably in two or three soybeans. Can install wooden screens on the south side, thus protecting the trees from the March sun. If September was dry, then at the end of October the trees need water-charging watering. Around trees and shrubs, make grooves at a distance of 50-80 from stems and let water into them. This will enhance autumn root growth and prevent winter freezing.November work.
Wrap tree trunks with roofing material, fine mesh or spruce branches, so you save the bark from rodents. Spreading shrubs with thin branches tie it so that the bush does not fall apart with snow. Mulch tree trunks under young plants. When persistent frosts occur, cover the strawberries with compost, dry peat or geotextile.We have a lot more on our website:
Dear guest of our site, I do not insist, but I will be pleased to see your feedback, advice or wish! New articles are published once a week, and sometimes more often, which means that our blog lives an active life and your feedback will not go unnoticed!
Regards, Tatiana!
September. In the first decade of the month, the planting of strawberries on a previously prepared site is completed. Its rows are mulched with peat, making sure that the apical bud is open.
The fruits of plums, autumn varieties of apple trees and pears are removed and placed in storage facilities, which are dried in advance, ventilated, cleaned of dust and dirt and disinfected by burning sulfur (10-20 g per 1 m3) in a carefully closed room. By the end of the harvest, the hunting belts are removed and burned.
In fruit trees, intensive root growth begins approximately one to two weeks after harvest. During this period, they should be given basic fertilizer. If the soil under the crown of the tree is kept under black fallow, fertilizers are evenly distributed over the entire crown projection area and the soil is carefully dug up with garden forks. Fertilizers are applied locally on the sod near-stem circle. At the same time, for the introduction of organic fertilizers along the border of the crown projection, they dig a trench to the width of a shovel and a depth of two bayonets. The turf is carefully removed, the earth from the trench, so as not to spoil the lawn, is placed in an iron trough or on a piece of film, roofing material. After filling the trench with organic matter, it is compacted, earth is added on top and the turf is laid in its original place. Excess land is transferred to the dug up area. To make the turf take root faster, it is immediately watered. When only mineral fertilizers are applied, wells are made with a garden drill along the border of the crown projection, as described for June. Fertilizers are thoroughly mixed with the excavated soil and the well is filled with the mixture.
For an apple and pear tree up to 6 years of age, the fertilizers that were laid in the planting pit are enough. Under a tree 7-12 years old, 4 kg of organic fertilizer and, accordingly, two-thirds and a third of a faceted glass of superphosphate and potassium chloride must be applied per 1 m2 of the near-trunk circle. Under a tree for 13-20 years, 6 kg of organic fertilizers, 1 faceted glass of superphosphate and half as much potassium chloride are applied per 1 m2. Under a tree older than 21 years - 8 kg of organic fertilizers and, respectively, one and a half and two thirds of a faceted glass of superphosphate and potassium chloride. Organic fertilizers (compost, peat, humus, rotted manure) are applied every 4 years. If instead of the mentioned mineral fertilizers nitrophoska or wood ash, then they are given in the same doses as superphosphate. For cherries and plums, the doses of mineral and organic fertilizers are the same as for apple and pear trees under the age of 12, but it is advisable for them to replace potassium chloride with sulfate.
October. Cleaning starts chokeberry, winter varieties of apple and pear. It is better to do this in dry weather, since wet fruits are more quickly damaged by harmful microorganisms during storage. If the fruits are harvested in the rain, then before laying in the storage they must be dried in a ventilated place. They contribute to the preservation of fruits by layering them in a box of small wood chips or sawdust hardwood, as well as wrapping in paper soaked in mineral (vaseline) oil. Apples of many varieties (except for Antonovka ordinary) are well stored in sealed plastic bags with a capacity of up to 1.5 kg.
After the first air frosts or a week before the mass leaf fall of apple and pear trees of those varieties that are damaged by scab, they are sprayed with a 5% solution of urea (500 g per 10 l of water) or a 10% solution of potassium chloride (1 kg per 10 l water), processing not only foliage, but branches, trunk and fallen leaves under the crown.
Dig and fertilize planting pits (see the chapter "Placing and planting fruit and berry crops"). If there are dying or dead adult fruit trees on the site and the gardener intends to replace them with new ones, then he must remember that a seedling of the same species can be located no closer than one and a half meters from the trunk of the tree to be removed. For example, you cannot plant an apple tree after an apple tree, but a tree of a different breed is quite acceptable. This rule also applies to berry crops. For example, the area freed from under the old blackcurrant bushes, after fertilizing the soil, can be occupied by any fruit or berry crop, of course, except for blackcurrant.
After leaf fall, the site is carefully raked and then the fallen leaves, weeds, tops of potatoes, root crops, etc. are composted. The site should be clean and well-groomed before winter. At the same time, they start pruning currants and gooseberries. The absence of foliage and relatively warm weather allow this operation to be carried out qualitatively. Cut branches, as we have already said, are cut into pieces for use in hidden drainage.
If there are trees on dwarf rootstocks on the site, then the soil under them is mulched with a 5-10 cm layer of peat, humus or sawdust, since they root system due to low frost resistance and surface placement in the soil, it can freeze slightly at the onset of early severe cold weather, especially in the absence of sufficient snow cover.
In non-hardy raspberry varieties, the shoots are bent to the soil and tied to each other at a height of 30-40 cm from the soil surface. Its winter-hardy varieties are not bent down for the winter, but tied to a trellis so that in the spring they are not broken by settling snow. Sometimes, for the same purpose, currant branches are carefully tied into a bundle.
Second half of October - best time for planting berry crops. Planted plants are watered regardless of the weather, giving half a bucket per bush, and then the soil is mulched with peat or humus.
November. All plant residues are removed from the garden. The compost heap is covered with old plastic wrap, roofing felt or roofing material. If the site is located on a slope, then anti-erosion measures are taken to avoid washing off the soil in the spring: they dig grooves, arrange small earthen ridges, etc.
Mice cause great harm to apple trees (up to the age of 15-17 years). Therefore, the boles are tied with roofing felt or roofing material, but without fail first placing burlap or rags so that in the spring the bark does not receive thermal burns. The old nylon stockings, which are applied starting from the soil surface, have proven themselves as a strapping. Since there is no warming under such a harness, it can be applied long before the autumn cold, but it is better in dry weather. There should be no open areas of bark between the strapping and the soil. Must be protected very carefully lower part trunk of trees grafted onto dwarf rootstocks or vigorous ones with an insert of a dwarf rootstock, since the thick and juicy bark dwarf rootstocks particularly attractive to rodents.
In soddy areas, the probability of damage to fruit trees by mice increases. Here, a seed should be applied against them. For this, zinc phosphide is used (50 g of the substance per 1 kg of grain, except for oats, and 50 g sunflower oil), but you can do it the same way as against water rats. The seed is placed in paper bags and placed one at a time near the stem of the fruit tree. They are also laid out on strawberry and raspberry plantations, about compost heaps. In the spring, seeding is often the cause of the death of birds. To prevent this from happening, the bags should be covered with pieces of board or put in a piece of pipe, and after the snow melts and the soil dries, they should be destroyed.
In snowless winters and in poorly protected areas, strawberry plants often freeze out, and in clayey places, plants can also be pushed out of the soil, especially on a newly planted plantation. Therefore, rows of strawberries should be mulched with peat after the soil freezes to a depth of 5-6 cm. Shields are installed on a strawberry plantation for better retention and accumulation of snow, or cut currant branches are scattered. It is good to carry out snow retention on a young plantation of berry bushes.
A very common winter damage to fruit trees is sunburn, which affects the trunk and bases of skeletal branches. You can protect them by applying a creamy mixture of clay with mullein with a brush. Whitewashing has also proven itself (2.5 kg of lime and 0.5 kg of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). Suitable, as we have already noted, is thin light-colored paper, such as newsprint, applied in two or three layers in early autumn.
After the first 5-10-degree frosts, annual shoots of fruit crops are harvested for grafting.
...But also in winter months there is work in the garden. For example, snow retention, which we have already talked about. And after heavy snowfalls, snowdrifts in the near-trunk circles of fruit trees are compacted, protecting them from mice. As snow accumulates, boles and bases of skeletal branches are systematically spudded with it, thereby improving wintering conditions for fruit trees. Snow for this is taken, as they say, from the outside, that is, where garden and garden crops are not grown.
Loading...