On any garden plot this ornamental shrub will find its place by supplementing it bright colors and abundant flowering. climbing rose will give beauty, only if you work a little.
Climbing rose arch
Reproduction and rooting of climbing roses
The climbing rose is propagated by cuttings and layering.
When grown by layering, the best shoots are selected. A groove is dug near the bush, its bottom is loosened, humus is poured in and a vertically selected shoot is laid, which is covered with earth and then watered. In the spring, the shoot should be with roots, after which it is cut off from the main bush. For successful rooting and survival, it is better to prevent the flowering of a young bush by breaking the buds.
How to root a climbing rose
Faster and easier propagation by cuttings of climbing roses. When the roses fade, cuttings with 3-4 buds 15-20 cm long are cut from the middle of the stem. They are removed from them lower leaves, and then the cuttings need to be dug in the shade, the embedment depth is 5-6 cm. The plantings are well watered.
Rooting climbing roses is excellent without the use of rooters. All that is required next is the removal of weeds, periodic loosening and watering.
Climbing rose care
In summer, a climbing rose requires rare but plentiful watering, pruning and top dressing. The soil under the bush should not dry out. Climbing roses need to be fed with mineral and organic fertilizers. You can achieve additional flowering of a rose by pruning faded branches.
At the first frost, the bush is spudded, removed from the support and the lashes are pressed to the ground. Shoots can be covered for the winter wooden boxes, dry leaves or covering material.
Climbing roses are pruned twice: in spring, poorly overwintered shoots are removed, in autumn - weak ones, which will be difficult to endure frosts. In autumn, shoots are also shortened by 25-30 cm.
Climbing Rose Garter
It is clear that climbing roses require some kind of support, they should not spread along the ground. Pergolas, arches, trellises, arbors, etc. can be used as a support for roses.
The garter is made with non-sharp material - rope, wire, thread. The lashes are attached diagonally, spirally or horizontally to allow side branches to grow unhindered.
Problems and diseases of climbing roses
It happens that climbing roses rarely bloom or there is no flowering at all, which is one of the problems. The reason for the non-blooming of the rose may be the poor overwintering of the shoots, and not yet the pruning of faded branches.
The next problem is yellowing of the leaves. This leads to a lack of nutrients (iron, nitrogen, etc.), as well as an excess of fertilizers.
Roses are also very fond of pests: spider mite, leaf-eating insects, sawflies, thrips, aphids. Here we need timely processing of bushes with special preparations.
Climbing roses are damaged by various diseases: bark cancer, Fusarium, powdery mildew, black spot, etc. Fight diseases will help effective drugs, of which there are many. They eliminate diseases and prevent new foci from appearing.
Climbing roses after flowering
Starting in September, climbing roses in the garden begin to prepare for wintering. Watering is reduced, instead of nitrogen fertilizers begin to use potash, the soil ceases to loosen around the bushes. In not fully ripened shoots, you need to cut off the tops. in order for climbing roses to winter normally, they must be removed from the support, laid on the ground, and then covered with covering material. Problems with laying young roses should not arise. The old bushes are laid gradually, it may even take 5-7 days for this. You need to have time to do this before frost, because. at negative temperatures shoots become especially brittle and fragile.
How to cover climbing roses for the winter
In order for climbing roses to prepare for winter temperatures, they need to be covered only when the air temperature drops to -5 ºC. If you cover it earlier, then it can either spit out or go into growth due to lack of air. The leaves from the branches, if they remain, must be removed, the branches themselves should be bent to the ground, the shoots that are diseased or damaged by pests should be cut off. The branches are carefully tied and laid on spruce branches or on covering material. Top branches are also covered.
Climbing roses in winter
In winter, you can periodically open the roses and give them a breath of fresh air for a while. The film is removed at the end of spring, when stable warming comes, leaving only spruce branches.
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All roses can be divided into two large groups: remontant, that is, re-flowering, and single-flowering.
Remontant shrub roses in the intervals between flowering periods form a small number of flowers that appear on the shoots of the same year, lateral or apical. The structure of remontant shrub roses is the same as hybrid tea or floribunda, so all the rules described apply to them. Pruning stimulates the growth and branching of strong main shoots. With the rapid growth of shrub roses, this is achieved by regular thinning and rejuvenating pruning every 4-5 years. When rejuvenating pruning, old and faded stems are cut in the immediate vicinity of the root collar. The best time for pruning: April or September.
crown formation
In shrub roses of all kinds, at the end of summer, too long main shoots are cut by a third. Thanks to this, the shape of the bush becomes more even and spherical.
With a strong thickening of the crown in summer, you can cut off several faded lateral growths directly near the main shoot
When rejuvenating pruning with secateurs, old stems are removed very close to the root collar.
Shrub roses require a strong "frame". Thinning pruning in remontant roses consists in removing inward-growing and crossed stems and shoots.
In all single-flowering roses, every 5-8 years, two-thirds of the old stems are cut off in the immediate vicinity of the root neck. At the same time, if possible, do not touch long young growths so as not to lose beautiful flowers and fruits. Cut only too long shoots that interfere with free growth. The best time for pruning is in the summer after flowering.
The long shoots of these roses resemble garlands of flowers and leaves. For greater effect, when pruning, first of all, old stems are removed, the rest of the branches are slightly pruned. Some types of shrub roses with a very dense crown sometimes require thinning pruning, during which faded shoots are also removed.
Once a year, old roses bloom - alba, damask, moss, tea - and "wild" shrub.
On their bushes with long shoots, many short lateral growths are formed. Already in May-June, flowers appear on the latter.
Taming the creepers
According to the same rules, climbing roses of the rambler type are cut - with long and thin shoots. Most varieties of these roses bloom in early summer. Lateral growths are cut off either immediately after flowering or in autumn. These charming creatures also regularly undergo rejuvenating pruning, leaving low stumps in place of the old stems.
Only thanks to pruning and shaping, climbing roses will beautifully "drape" trellises, arches or gazebo walls. If they are left "unattended", then they will bloom only at the ends of the shoots, and a gloomy picture of bare branches will appear below.
Climbing roses with their "prim" strong stems need a trellis or a fence to quickly climb up. In the first two years of life, it is enough to remove dry stems in spring and faded shoots in summer. At the same time, incorrectly growing lateral growths are slightly pruned.
During the summer, it is important to guide the growth of the main shoots and side shoots. They are tied in the form of an arc to a trellis, fence or stretched wire. A picture of lush flower foam is created by directing the shoots to the top of the fence, on which the inflorescences beautifully fall. To make the plants look good from all sides, they should remove dead and thin stems every 3-4 years.
Beautiful arcs. Shoots of climber-type roses in the form of arcs or horizontally are tied to a support, best before the leaves appear. It stimulates the formation of flower shoots
Left: Lateral growths of climber roses are shortened by about two-thirds after flowering in summer.
Right: lateral growths of climber roses cut off leaving 2-4 buds
Any plastic materials are suitable for tying roses. Do not fix the escape too tightly. Make sure that it does not rub anywhere and that the garter does not grow into the wood
Putting them on a flat wall is not the best design solution. Their long and flexible stems are designed for pergolas, arches, obelisks, pyramids, pavilions or gates. complex shapes, of course, will require more careful maintenance. In the spring, dry stems must be removed, and in the summer, young shoots are regularly tied up.
Formation
The height of the climbing rose can reach seven meters. Mandatory conditions successful cultivation are sunny place, regular pruning, garter to the supports before the start of the growing season and removal from the supports, followed by careful covering of the lashes for the winter.
The correct garter of climbing roses stimulates the formation of new flowers, so the lashes are tied up so that they are located horizontally or in a spiral (for climbing varieties). The vertical fixation of the shoots stimulates the growth of a large amount of leaf mass and replacement shoots, makes the bushes more magnificent, but flowering will be weak and short-lived. The peculiarity of climbing roses is that the flowers appear along the entire length of the stems, formed horizontally.
Young climbing roses need to be formed initially so that their shoots grow in the direction you need. The main shoots are distributed along the wall, support or fence in the form of a fan, this stimulates the formation of numerous side lashes. If a climbing rose is grown around a pole or column, its lashes are fixed on a support in a spiral.
Climbing roses do not have tendrils like other climbing vines. They do not have the ability, like climbing vines, to twist around the support, so they must be tied to the support with wire. The wire must be wrapped in plastic. Metal wire is not suitable for these purposes. You can use twine, but wire is more convenient to work with.
It is not necessary to tie the lashes tightly. When wrapping with wire, free space should remain, since the lashes will continue to grow not only in length, but also in thickness. It is very important not to tighten the wire or rope too tightly so as not to damage the shoots.
Use in landscape design
Supports for climbing roses can be installed in any corner of the garden: above the gate or gate, above the path, at the entrance to the house, at the wall of the house. A fence, a gazebo can serve as a support. An interesting element landscape design will become a tower of roses when the plants are grouped around a high rack and wrap around it.
Climbing roses are often used to decorate walls. country houses. It is better to place them under the window, and not in the wall between the windows. This will cause the bush to grow in width. Roses are tied to the wall with special wire fasteners, one side driven into the wall.
Climbing roses can drape not only fences and poles.
An old tree entwined with climbing roses looks very beautiful. But it is best to fix the stems of roses on a large-mesh wooden lattice with a mesh size of 30x30 cm. It is convenient to tie lashes of roses to the lattice, and then it is easy to untie and remove them for the winter to put them in shelter.
Hello, my dear readers! Today in my blog I have prepared interesting material for beauty lovers. After all, what could be better than fragrant, amazingly shaped flowers? Therefore, our topic today is climbing roses planting and care. I am sure that each of you often find unique compositions from this plant. After I share with you myself necessary information, a weaving rose will certainly take root on your site and will become not only an ornament, but also your pride.
Even before this marvelous plant appeared near my house, I believed that the climbing rose was not capricious and undemanding. My very first experiment of obtaining a queen of flowers from seeds failed completely, because there was no experience in it. Now 5 varieties flaunt on my site, and I am sure that this is just the beginning.
First I want to tell you when is the best time to plant. It is best to do this in the spring, when the frosts have passed and the soil warms up deeply. Important point– if you buy a plant in a nursery, plant it in open ground only after the leaves have blossomed on the trees.
If curly acquired at the end of summer, be prepared for the fact that the bush will not have time to take root before the cold weather. What does it threaten? The fact that the plant will die after the first frost. Shelter may also be useless - the roots will rot.
If you are interested in the propagation of climbing roses, then there are several ways:
- seeds;
- layering;
- cuttings;
- division of an adult bush.
Site selection and soil preparation
I will share with you a little trick - to reduce the risk of climbing diseases, you need to plant it in a place that will be under direct hot rays in the morning. Ask why so? Everything is very simple, cold dew will evaporate from the leaves of the plant in the morning, thereby protecting the rose from the appearance of rot or fungus.
I also want to warn you that the climbing rose is afraid of drafts, consider this point also when choosing a place. Cold winds can adversely affect plants, keep this in mind too.
The most important thing is that a curly rose is afraid of strong moisture, so if at the place that you have identified for planting, they pass close ground water I advise you to find another place.
I will say a few words about soil preparation. Curly rose feels great on the lungs clay soils. A mixture of clay, sand, peat, compost and leafy earth is the perfect composition for the queen of flowers.
Correct fit
If you have become the proud owner of several bushes, plan to plant them in a row, then the distance between the plants should not be less than a meter. I also warn you right away - if you plant near a fence or wall, then leave 50-80 cm between the building and the plant. Why? quite powerful, they can damage the formwork, and they will also not be comfortable near the interference that prevents them from growing.
Before planting, carefully inspect the seedlings. Be sure to remove all damaged or rotten roots and shoots, sprinkle the fabric with crushed coal. Also cut off the shoots, leaving 1-2 buds.
Before planting in open ground, I dip all shrubs in a special mixture of clay, mullein and phosphorobacterin tablets. I don’t know if this is the case, but the seedlings take root without loss at all. A bucket of water needs 0.5 kg of clay, the same amount of mullein and 4 tablets of the drug.
When planting, the root neck should significantly go into the ground. A layer of soil above it at 10 cm will help the climbing shrub to let out numerous shoots and will perfectly help to endure winter frosts.
Are you afraid that the plant will not take root? Build a small greenhouse, in which in a few weeks the rose will begin to produce new shoots. I don’t advise you to immediately remove the cover, it’s better to leave the plant for 4-5 days for several hours. outdoors, only then remove the greenhouse completely.
Another helpful advice- do not feed the curly rose for the first year after planting. She will be enough useful elements from the ground. You can sprinkle the soil near the roots with a generous layer in late summer or early autumn. wood ash and loosen the soil.
Basic rules of care
For good developing plant it’s easy to care for, it won’t take much time, special knowledge as well. But at proper care get gorgeous branches blooming all summer. Basic care processes:
- watering;
- removal of weeds;
- pruning shoots (a cool tool for this you will find here);
- top dressing.
After the winter cover is removed from the bush, be sure to carefully inspect it, remove all suspicious and dried shoots. Loosen the earth immediately, remove the remnants of last year's weeds. I also advise you to spray the plant with pesticides, in case pests have started there during the winter.
It is better to burn the remains of shoots or weeds immediately. If they are infected with diseases, they should not be left near the site in any case. Some flower growers advise to carry out secondary digging after a few days, to a depth of up to 30 cm, in order to completely eliminate the appearance of diseases that could be stored in the soil for the entire winter season. I refused this, because many roots are injured.
The next step is mulching. Compost or humus is perfect here. A thick layer of mulch will retain moisture and replenish micronutrient deficiencies.
The main pest of climbing roses is the caterpillar, which can damage up to 80% of the leaves of the plant. I carry out preventive pest control in May. I will warn you right away - if they are nearby fruit bushes, cover them with polyethylene so that chemicals do not get on them.
Garter and trim
Did you know that only two-year-old shoots are covered with flowers on climbing roses? Therefore, the plant requires such a responsible process every year - pruning. I usually do this in late summer, removing weak annuals or thick old shoots with sharp garden shears.
Curly also need skillfully. Do not think that if you constantly point them up, then this will give the plant aesthetics. From my own experience I know that it is better to tie the shoots in horizontal directions. Then new sprouts will certainly go up from them, which is what is required from the plant if you need to create a thick dense wall with fragrant flowers.
I have special decorative lattices for roses, but the plant will grow well even near a tree or a pole, it is enough to give it the right direction several times, wrapping it with lashes around such a support.
Wintering climbing roses
This type of rose needs cover for the winter. Please note that there should be free space between a thick layer of spruce branches, pine needles or sawdust. Remove the branches from the support, immediately remove the weak or affected by the disease. Place them carefully on the ground. I additionally fix with steel hooks.
Now it’s up to the small thing - to cover with roofing felt or roofing material, pour insulating material and at first press it with pieces of brick or wood. Only then, when the insulation is caking, you can remove the load.
It happens that it is rather problematic to remove an overgrown shrub from a support. Here you can do this: wrap the pole along with the branches with burlap and additionally wrap it with pine branches, securing it with twine.
I think I told you everything that I myself knew about this wonderful plant. I have no doubt that even slight difficulties in growing will not make you back down and give up, because the curly rose will really serve as a real decoration for your site. By the way, look interesting photos, I prepared them specifically for this material. Maybe your friends will also find it useful to learn about growing the queen of flowers? Share with them, please, in social networks, I will be very grateful to you. In the meantime, I say goodbye to you, all the best to you!
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