It will be useful for beginner gardeners to learn how to thin out beets in order to get a good harvest of large and tasty root crops. You can grow this vegetable in both seedless and seedling ways. Therefore, the strong seedlings remaining after the breakthrough should not be thrown away - they can be used as seedlings. More often, beets are planted after the first thinning, but if necessary, grown seedlings with 4-5 leaves can also be used.
Beet seeds germinate at a temperature of +4 ° C, but one should not rush into planting, as seedlings and grown plants do not tolerate frost well. The vegetable shows the highest germination at +10 ° C. The seeding rate is 17-20 g per 10 m². Planting depth - 2.5-3 cm. With deep planting, germination decreases and the growth rate of the plant slows down due to lack of oxygen in the soil.
Beet seeds are infructescences or concretions of fruits, connected by 3-5 pieces into dense balls. Each infructescence can give 2-4 full-fledged shoots, which leads to thickening of seedlings. If you do not remove the extra shoots in time, then the root crops will grow small, deformed and tasteless. The seedlings remaining after thinning can be planted in free places.
If you want to get a crop of large root crops, then you need to thin out the plantings at least twice. Moreover, the thinned distances should be 3-4 cm during the first procedure and 8-10 cm during the second breakthrough.
How to thin out beets?
An important agricultural technique for all root crops, especially for beets, is thinning. You need to know how to properly break through plants. The size of the harvest will depend on the timeliness and quality of the procedure. To create an optimal feeding area for each plant, it is necessary to carry out 2-3, and sometimes 4 thinning of seedlings.
As soon as the first permanent leaf appears, you can begin to thin out the plantings. Sometimes the first breakthrough has to be carried out at the stage of cotyledon leaves. Do not question the need for the procedure; friendly germination is, of course, good, but in thickened plantings the plants will oppress each other. Growing full-fledged root crops in such conditions will not work.
Thinning is preferably carried out on a cloudy day or in the evening. The soil should be moist, so the day before the procedure, the plants are watered abundantly. Before thinning, the aisles are loosened. The strongest plant is left in each nest, and the rest are removed.
In order not to damage the desired seedlings, you should not uproot the plants, it is better to pinch the sprout near the ground. For convenience, you can use tweezers or scissors. If strong seedlings remain after the breakthrough, then you should not throw them away. Beetroot can be transplanted into prepared furrows or in those places where it has not risen.
Second procedure
Under favorable conditions, the plants grow well, as a rule, after 2-3 weeks after the first breakthrough, the beet manages to grow 5-6 leaves, and the root crop reaches 3-4 cm in diameter. You can proceed to the second thinning procedure. Remove the largest plants that have reached beam ripeness, as well as poorly developed specimens. The distance between the remaining plants should be at least 6-8 cm.
The third thinning is carried out when the root crops reach 4-5 cm in diameter and they can already be used for food. At this time, the final density of standing is formed. So that the root crop does not outgrow, the interval between plants after a breakthrough should be no more than 10-15 cm. The vegetable grower always has a choice - either to grow in the seed way, or to plant seedlings, so that later they do not have to thin out.
Subsequent breakthroughs are multiple selective harvesting.
Transplanting beets when thinning
After the first thinning, there are many strong plants that can be used as seedlings. It has been noticed that planted beets take root well and form larger root crops than those planted with seeds in a permanent place.
If there are no additional beds for planting plants, you can find a place for seedlings between cucumbers, sweet peppers, dill, and other vegetables (except beans). You can also root seedlings of the root vegetable on the sides of the beds with strawberries. These plants get along well with each other.
It is advisable to transplant beets during thinning in rainy cloudy weather, which will ensure better survival. The vegetable reacts very sensitively even to minor damage to the root, so you need to remove it from the ground with a narrow garden spatula. Then carefully place in the prepared hole, avoiding bends and creases, otherwise the root crop will grow deformed.
If the root is too long, then it is better to shorten it by one third. Before planting, you can dip the roots of seedlings in a mixture of mullein and clay for good survival. In grown seedlings, all foliage is removed, leaving one central sprout. After transplanting, it is advisable to shade the plants by sticking small branches of a maple or other tree with large foliage next to them.
Many experienced vegetable growers do not recognize the sowing of beets immediately in a permanent place, but plant them only in seedlings. The advantage of this method is that there is no need for thinning and large root crops are obtained.
How to plant beets so as not to thin out?
To get a productive and sweet root crop, thinning beets in the open field is carried out 2 or even 3 times per season. If it is not possible to break through the plants, you can immediately plant seedlings at a distance of 7-10 cm from each other. Beets have large seeds, so this is not so difficult to do.
Many gardeners lay out beet seeds in advance on paper tapes covered with a paste. During planting, the tapes are embedded in furrows to a depth of no more than 2-3 cm and lightly sprinkled with earth. The disadvantage of this method is that some of the seeds may die, and seedlings will be uneven. Therefore, in stock it is necessary to have a small plot of plants for seedlings, so that there is something to replace the dead seedlings.
Beets are demanding on soil fertility and do not tolerate shading. There are a number of conditions on the fulfillment of which the quality of the crop will depend, so it will be useful to listen to the simple recommendations of experienced gardeners:
- If you want to get a good harvest of large root crops, then you need to grow only zoned varieties of domestic selection on your site.
- Before sowing, beet seeds must be treated in a weak solution of manganese or ash (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water). Then wrap in a damp cloth and put in a warm place until the sprouts peck.
- Too large root crops are poorly stored, accumulate more nitrates, and often have poor taste. To get medium-sized maturing beets, it is necessary to reduce the distance between rows to 18-20 cm, and in rows to 8-10 cm.
- Experienced gardeners do not want to waste time fighting thickened beet seedlings; it is much easier to grow high-quality root crops from seedlings.
- Beets do not develop well in acidic soils, so it will be useful to water them with ash water twice a season (1 cup of ash per bucket of water). You can dust the aisles with dry ash (with subsequent loosening of the soil).
- Wood ash is also a good pest repellent.
- To increase sugar content, beets are watered twice a season with lightly salted water (1 tbsp. Salt without top per 1 liter of water). The first watering is carried out during the period of tying the root crop, the second - a month before harvesting.
Even a novice summer resident can grow an unpretentious and tasty root crop. By putting into practice the useful advice of experienced gardeners, you can get a significant increase in yield.
My family members and I eat beets all year round. Therefore, I definitely grow vegetables in their summer cottage. I always wanted to get large root crops, but instead shaggy, lopsided and small fruits grew. Even when I found out at what time and how to thin out the beets in the garden, I did not follow the recommendations.
She believed that this culture did not need special care. As a result, I received a small harvest, in the spring I had to buy more vegetables to cook my favorite vinaigrette or borscht.
I was proven wrong in the following years, when I began to follow the rules of vegetable crop farming. Mom told me that when planting from one seed, 2 and 3 sprouts grow. In order for all of them to develop fully and give large beets, you need to plant the extra ones on another bed.
There are varieties on sale, from the seed of which only one sprout grows, but we are adherents of Bordeaux. Thinning can be learned even by a beginner.
Friendly plant shoots are a joy for any gardener. The impetus for their development is fully given by thinning. After the procedure, the root crop develops without feeling the "shoulder" of the neighbor. From the soil, the plant receives good nutrition.
Bordeaux beets and other traditional varieties, as well as cylindrical ones, need agrotechnical reception. Feed varieties of root crops are also thinned out.
We live in the Moscow region. For the first time I thin out beets in the last decade of May. I plant seeds at the beginning of the month immediately in moist soil. If there is no precipitation for a long time, then I pre-soak the seeds. Usually there are no problems with germination, and by the end of May 3-4 leaves are formed on the bed.
I do without the second thinning, but it happened that I didn’t notice and left little space for the beets - for adult plants you need at least 6-8 centimeters. And also accidentally left undivided triple or double landings. Then the operation was carried out as needed during June.
In July and August, when the plants begin to form a root crop, it will begin to increase in size, I do not thin out. The root system becomes large and penetrates deep into the ground. When transplanting, its parts are injured, there is a high probability of pinching off the tail.
Adult specimens of the culture take root in a new place for a long time, get very sick and then form ugly root crops.
In any case, I transplant beets in the afternoon after 16 hours. The goal is to minimize stress on the crop and improve the adaptation of the transplanted plants to the new location.
Proper thinning of the plant
On the eve of the manipulations, I carefully shed a bed with seedlings in the open field. I carry out the procedure itself on cloudy days or midday hours, when it's cool. I draw attention to the fact that the soil on the new bed is moist.
I prepare a new bed in advance and introduce azofoska into the soil. I draw furrows on the ground for planting beets. I water the soil and make small indentations for the plants. Then I begin to plant the culture correctly.
- At the first stage, I loosen the ground between the rows.
- I place a special spatula with a sharp shape deep enough into the ground next to the seedlings, I lift the clod with sprouts according to the lever principle.
- I carefully take out the plants and separate them. Sometimes it is possible to pull out two pieces, and one plant remains in its place.
- I plant 2-3 plants at once, so that the beets almost instantly find themselves in the ground. If I have to delay with a transplant, then I keep the plants in the water. I choose shadow for this.
- When planting, I leave a distance of 6-7 centimeters between plants.
- I water the new bed with plantings abundantly with warm and settled water.
- On the old bed I add humus, straighten the disturbed sprouts and also water with warm and settled water.
Any transplant of beets during thinning requires care and lack of haste.
I advise you to learn about growing and thinning beets in the garden by watching the video:
If there is not enough space for all the plants on the new bed, then I plant the beets to other crops where there is free space. I planted it with carrots, potatoes, onions, greens. These cultures take root perfectly together and even help protect each other from harmful insects. Yes, and the root crop in the open grows large.
Caring for planted beets
It is not enough to plant beets according to the rules, you need to provide care for the vegetable. After the transplant, the next day, with the scorching sun, I shade the plantings. To do this, I cut lilac branches with leaves, insert them next to the root crops. I water the plants in the evening if necessary.
- Two weeks after thinning, I sprinkle the beets with wood ash. Natural fertilizer provides plants with potassium and protects against pests.
- Responsive culture and the introduction of organic fertilizers. During the summer, I feed the plantings with a solution of horse manure or mullein.
- During night frosts, which occur in May and early June, I cover tender beet sprouts with covering material.
How to plant a vegetable so as not to thin out
When growing a seedling crop, thinning is carried out earlier by 3-4 weeks. Plants dive into separate containers, so that when planting in open ground, do not disturb the root system of the plant.
The following varieties of beets do not require thinning:
- Bordeaux single seed,
- Virovskaya one-seeded,
- Russian one-seeded,
- single-growth,
- Belarusian one-seeded,
- Lgovskaya,
- North Caucasian.
A seed contains one germ and produces one plant. In terms of ripening time and taste, the varieties do not differ from traditional ones that require thinning.
Foreword
In order to harvest a quality crop, you need to know a lot of important details before planting and during the growing season. Our review will help you learn more about the timing, landing site and care!
To enjoy beetroot dishes all year round, you need to choose the right ones that have different ripening periods, as well as provide care for the vegetable. This is a rather unpretentious plant, which already in the first year of growth forms strong roots, and in the second it produces flower stalks and seeds suitable for the next sowing. For good beet growth, it is enough to choose a lighted place, although slightly shaded areas will also not become an obstacle to growing.
Preparing the garden for planting
Therefore, do not try to choose the central part of the garden for it, beetroot likes to grow along the edges of the beds. Give this place to carrots, onions, cucumbers or cauliflower, believe me, they need it more. Better pay more attention to the type of soil and its acidity. Usually, light or medium loamy soil is chosen for planting beets, not prone to waterlogging, rich in organic matter and always with a neutral environment. Remember, heavy clay soils significantly reduce your chances of getting a high-quality and rich harvest, and increased acidity makes the tops red and ugly, the root crop is small and hard.
To neutralize acidity, it is necessary to regularly water the soil with limestone mortar throughout the entire growing season of beets. This rule is also observed when fodder beet is planted, especially demanding on the soil. You can get a juicy and sugary root crop only on a fertilized bed. It would be nice if a sufficient amount of organic fertilizers were previously applied to the landing site. However, if this did not happen, it is possible to ennoble the soil by introducing compost or humus, as well as mineral fertilizers: superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium chloride.
Don't forget that the soil you grew beets in last year is best not to be reused for a new crop. During this period, it could accumulate a lot of pests, in particular the sugar beet nematode. Therefore, choose the soil for planting new table beets, where other vegetables were previously planted, such as tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, peppers, eggplants, onions, legumes. But the beds, where carrots have already been, are not the best option, since the planting conditions, care and pests of these crops are very similar.
You can start planting your favorite table beet at the end of October to get an early harvest, but still, many gardeners prefer to perform this procedure in the spring. In this case, do not rush, the soil should warm up enough so that at a depth of 10 cm it is at least +8 ° C. Often, this indicator is reached in early to mid-May, and the ripening time is more dependent on the duration of winter cold and precipitation.
Planting a young seedling
It is also important to ensure that the temperature at the beginning of beet growth does not fall below +4. ° C, however, heat and drought are also bad companions in this matter. Therefore, it is best to plant seeds before prolonged rains. This will enhance the growth of the root crop and lead to the early emergence of the first shoots. But as for the depth of the seeds, the planting pattern will largely depend on the looseness and type of soil. If you are going to grow beets with seeds on loamy soil, then it should be 2.5-3 cm, and in lighter soil (sandy and sandy loam) - 3-4 cm. Before planting, the seeds are immersed in a special solution that enhances their growth and then dried. However, now many manufacturers, especially foreign brands, have already taken care of the waste of gardeners' time by releasing pelleted seeds.
They are seeds coated with an inert material that reliably protects them from pests and increases the accuracy of sowing. It is clear that they do not need to be pre-soaked in a solution and spend time on this. Seeds are completely ready for use. The best beet seeds are rightfully recognized , Podzimnyaya A-474, Bordeaux 237, Cold-resistant 19, Incomparable A-46, Renova, Gribovskaya Flat A-473, Egyptian Flat. In addition to growing with seeds, planting beet seedlings is often used. In this case, it is necessary to be 100% sure of the quality of the seedlings and be able to properly prepare it for planting.
Our grandparents were very fond of using these methods, and conservative housewives use it to this day. How do we start preparing seedlings? Take advantage of single-sprout early beet seeds by planting them in small containers about a month before planting seedlings in the ground. It is best to use small cups with a diameter of 4-5 cm for these purposes. It is necessary to fill them with earth and make a small depression in the middle, about 1.5 cm, pour water into it and throw a seed, sprinkle it on top of the earth.
Beet seedlings for planting
We cover the prepared cups with a protective material (ordinary cellophane is quite suitable) to prevent the evaporation of moisture, and put them in a warm place, without direct sunlight.
Next, we perform minimal care for the seedlings and wait for the first shoots to appear above the surface of the earth. Then we rearrange the cups to a more lit place, for example, on the windowsill. After 1 month, the seedlings will be completely ready for planting. The finished sprout, preferably together with an earthen clod, must be pulled out of the cup and planted in the prepared soil in your backyard. Landing in open ground is best done between May 10 and May 20, and in the case of using a stationary greenhouse, even earlier - from the end of April. In the latter case, the chances of getting the first harvest in mid-June are much higher.
If you are planting beets with a large number of sprouts, then you need to make wide enough furrows in the aisle so that the sprouts do not interfere with each other after germination. The optimal planting pattern in this case is a distance of 20-25 cm. As for the depth of planting seeds, it will depend on the type of soil, which has already been discussed, but not less than 2 cm. To make the rows better visible, stick along the edges of each row small pegs and pull the wire on top.
This will help you to zone the area, as well as greatly simplify maintenance and improve the accuracy of marking. Before planting seeds, do not forget to water the furrows with plenty of water, and also dig up the ground. If it is not loose enough, mulch it by adding a thin layer of sand or peat. After the appearance of the first shoots, we continue to care for the plant. Keep an eye on soil looseness and watering, performing the advantage procedure in the evening. Watering contributes to the maximum access of oxygen and nutrients to the root system, which means that the beets will grow faster.
Properly marked bed with beets
Due to the fact that many gardeners generally prefer to grow beet varieties with 2-3 sprouts, this helps to save the budget on buying seeds for planting a new crop. Therefore, wait until the root crop puts out a few mature leaves, and then carefully dig out the extra sprouts and transplant them to another bed, while maintaining a sufficient distance along the length of the bed of 8-10 cm.
This method will certainly help you get a full-fledged crop, but before transplanting, you need to perform one tricky manipulation, shortening the tip of the plant root by 5-8 mm. This will help the root system grow well and make the root crop even, without bends. And if you want to simplify your work and not pile up the garden with tedious markings, plant single-sprout varieties of beets. Many also prefer to grow elongated beets in their garden. - Mona, Renova, Cylinder, Negress. Such varieties are distinguished by the tender pulp of the root crop and the ease of cleaning.
Planting beets and the appearance of the first shoots is only the first stage of painstaking work and obtaining a long-awaited high-quality harvest. Further care for beets should be no less attentive than before. First of all, it concerns weed control. They must be weeded as they appear, otherwise the weeds will take away most of the nutrients from the table beets, which are also necessary for the growth of a weighty juicy root crop. Also thin out the sprouts when the third leaf appears on the plants.
The next important point that should be taken into account so that the care of the beets is as correct as possible is compliance with the rules of watering. Beetroot loves moist soil, so it needs to be watered abundantly and regularly. For convenience, there is a simple scheme: 1-2 times a week in normal weather and 3-4 times in dry weather. This is very important during the period of active root formation. But about a month before harvesting, watering will need to be reduced, since waterlogging at this stage can adversely affect the appearance.
Beet Care Tips
Together with intensive watering, 2 weeks after planting, potash fertilizers must be applied for better and faster growth of young shoots. At this stage, you can also fertilize beets with organic matter. The best option in this case would be a solution of mullein, at the rate of 1 part fertilizer to 12 parts water. However, in everything you need to know the measure. This also applies to organic fertilizers. To improve growth, 1-2 top dressings will be enough, otherwise nitrates may begin to accumulate in the root crop. 21 days after such top dressing, you can water the bed with a solution of ash, and also spray beet leaves with it, no more than 2-3 times, at the rate of a glass of dry matter per 8 liters of water.
In addition, the ash can also be used separately in dry form. A glass will be enough for every 1.5 m of the bed. Ash can be sprinkled on the beds or poured into the ground during digging. Nitrogenous fertilizers are used to enhance the growth of tops, however, one should be very careful with the use of this top dressing. The fact is that beets have the ability to accumulate nitrogen in the root crop, which makes it extremely harmful to human health. However, if you are sure that it is the beet that lacks nitrogen for growth, fertilize no more than 2 times a season.
Beets can be deficient in manganese, sodium boron, potassium, and magnesium. A lack of potassium is usually indicated by yellowness on the tops. This can be corrected in an accessible way by watering the beets with limestone milk. It is prepared at the rate of 200 g of lime and 80 g of potassium chloride per 10 liters of water. If after the first procedure the yellowness does not disappear, it can be repeated only after 10 days. The redness of the tops of the leaves usually signals an acidic environment and a lack of sodium. Watering the beet leaves with salt water and sprinkling the beds with ash will help correct this situation. The recommended amount of watering with salt water is 2-3 times per season. Prepare such a solution at the rate of a glass of salt per 10 liters of water. In addition to replenishing the necessary substances, this method also helps to make the root crop more sugary.
Active harvesting of beets is carried out before frost. It is very important not to miss this moment, root crops after freezing are poorly stored. It is also important to get the beets out of the ground without damage. In this case, experienced gardeners use a pitchfork. They gently pry off the tops of the root and pull out, without cutting off the lower root. To consolidate the entire chain of actions, look at the video of how experienced gardeners do it all.
Harvested beets from the beds
After removing the tops from the soil, it is better not to cut the tops with a knife, but to cut them off with twisting movements with your hands, and then leave the root crop to dry in the air so that the “wounds” at the site of the torn tops are tightened. If, however, the beets were damaged during harvesting, sort them into a separate container. And another tip, so as not to once again injure the delicate skin of the beets and not to shift it from place to place, use dry, clean boxes for cleaning.
Beets are my family's favorite vegetable, boiled, stewed, pickled, beet kvass, beetroot and so on. How can you do without this vegetable? Even the ancient Greeks sacrificed beets to the god Apollo, how ancient and respected this vegetable is.
For sowing this vegetable, I always try to buy seeds of imported selection and always with an excellent harvest. Since overseas seeds are quite expensive, I value every seed. The germination of seeds is not known in advance, it is necessary to sow quite thickly, according to the principle "This is dense, it will not be empty." In addition, each beet seed is a whole seed, and several sprouts sprout from one seed at once. As a result, it turns out quite thick. However, I am not worried about this.
To get a good harvest, one of the requirements is the distance between plants. No matter how much I want to compact the plantings, the root crop needs space to grow. Therefore, no matter how sorry we are, the crops need to be thinned out. And here comes the moment, painstaking and accurate work on the safety of each sprout.
It is better to start thinning beets when the sprouts are not yet large.
For this procedure, I choose a cloudy day. I water beet seedlings abundantly. 
Gently, with a small knife, I dig up the sprouts and take out the extra ones in a bowl.
I water the remaining sprouts abundantly.
Now comes the moment of planting, the so-called seedlings of beets. You cannot delay this process. The sprouts are very tender, watery and fragile, they dry out very quickly. Therefore, I do not immediately dig out all the excess, but ten at a time, and without a moment’s delay I immediately land it in a pre-prepared place. 
This year I decided to compact the planting of cucumbers with beets. Since the place for cucumbers was already ready, the process went quickly. The neighborhood of beets and cucumbers is quite good, I have checked this more than once. Cucumber and an excellent predecessor for beets. Both beets and cucumbers do not tolerate acidic soils, both crops are quite moisture-loving. I grow cucumbers on a trellis net, all lashes occupy a vertical position, and the place below remains free and is perfectly mastered by beets. 
After transplantation, the bushes do not have a very attractive appearance, as a rule they lie. 
But literally a little time passes, the sprouts rise, come to life and safely continue their growing season.
Beetroot is considered to be a rather light-loving plant and does not form tubers well in partial shade, but the openwork shadow of a cucumber is absolutely not a hindrance to this.
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