How to independently level the floor in the apartment - three ways to properly level the base. How to level the floor in the apartment with your own hands: ways How to straighten the floors

Repair of each room begins with the floor. A flat floor is not only an aesthetic appearance of the floor covering, but also the prevention of injuries. Crooked furniture on a curved surface can simply collapse, thereby bringing no small harm to a person. This implies a number of rules and specifics for leveling the floor surface.

Leveling the floor in an apartment, garage, etc.

Concrete floors are characterized by increased strength and durability, resistance to gasoline, acids and solvents, endurance to mechanical damage, moisture and temperature conditions. For these reasons, they are suitable for use not only in residential premises, but also in a garage, barn, bathhouse and other domestic premises.

In an apartment, concrete, as a rule, is a draft material and serves as the basis for further insulation and laying of all kinds of coatings. In other buildings, bare concrete floors are usually left, sometimes ceramic tiles are laid on top.

When landscaping the floor in the garage, it should be borne in mind that the coating must be at least 10 cm thick to support the weight of the car. And also prevent alignment on one wall to prevent sloping and further accumulation of moisture.

To extend the service life, such floors are treated with special compounds, the so-called toppings. The algorithm of actions is suitable as for a typical cement-sand screed.

The reverse situation develops in the bath, when concrete base perform at an angle of 10 about for better drainage of water.

Types of screeds

There are several ways to level the coating applicable to each room. These include: dry screed, semi-dry screed, cement-sand screed, self-leveling mixture.

The choice of material and leveling method is based on the difference in floor height and finish floor covering. If the floor level is different parts the room differs by more than 3 cm, then coarse cement mortars are used.

When the base is more or less even, but dotted with cracks, it is more expedient to opt for self-leveling mixtures.

Advantages and disadvantages of screeds

Dry screed

One of the easiest alignment methods that even a non-professional can handle. Her virtues:

Cost savings - costs less than its competitors.
Saving working time for the installation process, and also does not require additional drying time.
It insulates the living space, therefore it is mainly suitable for use in an apartment or residential building.
Has soundproofing properties.
Does not require the preparation of a solution.
The installation process can be carried out in parts, unlike competitors, when the process affects the entire space of the room.
Possible communications are easier to lay.

This type of alignment is equally well suited for reinforced concrete and wooden floors. Materials for dry screed: expanded clay, quartz sand.

Cement-sand screed

Or the so-called wet screed - a classic method of leveling surfaces that has proven itself among many builders. A rather time-consuming process that requires additional skills and tools. As a result - a durable, perfectly flat surface for the finish coat.

The secret of a durable floor is pouring concrete mortar to a thickness of at least 3 cm.

There are also disadvantages, for example, the concrete floor is a dusty coating, it is impossible to remove various stains and oils from it. But these problems occur more often in non-residential premises, tk. in an apartment on reinforced concrete base lay the finish coats.

Semi-dry screed

A distinctive feature of this material, in comparison with wet way, is the reduced amount of liquid used in the solution.

This led to a difference in technology and filling, and also brought some positive qualities:

Increased density of the material. Due to the absence excess moisture, there is no excess evaporation, as a result - fewer voids, cavities and pores are formed. The result is high strength.
The shrinkage process is abolished.
The setting time is greatly reduced.
Less dirt and dampness at the work site.

Self leveling compound

Leveling mix or self-leveling floors, different names of the same group modern means for the final leveling of the floor. They are a fluid solution that, spilling over the floor, forms a flat horizontal surface.

The advantages of such material are:

Short drying time – the top coat can be laid already after 10 – 12 hours after pouring.
Possibility of spontaneous spreading.
Low layer thickness - suitable for use in rooms with low ceilings.

A self-levelling mixture is used with floor differences of no more than 3 cm, otherwise such a base may crack.

It is worth noting that such mixtures necessarily require a finish coating, due to their low strength.

The disadvantage of this leveling method is that the work must be carried out quickly, because. the solution tends to dry quickly.

Floor leveling for different surfaces

Laminate

With differences of more than 3 mm, you will never get an even and aesthetic laminate flooring. Even the use of a special soft substrate will not help. To level the base under the laminate floor, any of the above methods is suitable, the main condition is to obtain a perfectly flat surface.

Linoleum

Less capricious material - linoleum. When laying it, it is not so much the evenness that is important, but the smoothness of the surface. Any protruding element can break soft material. In noticeable irregularities, linoleum will lie smoothly, bringing with it only an unaesthetic appearance.

You can level the floor under linoleum in any way possible.

Ceramic tile

To install floor tiles, a cement-sand base is required, with a preliminary laying of a waterproofing layer. The use of a semi-dry screed is allowed. In this case, the surface is further leveled tile adhesive. The basic principle of operation is the absence of floor differences.

Under any of the light coatings, large surface differences can be leveled using plywood sheets installed on logs. Especially this method is used to raise the level of the floor.

Necessary materials and tools

For fruitful work, it is worth stocking up with the following list of tools and materials, which may vary depending on the type of alignment chosen:

Portland cement brand 400D20, M500.
Screened building sand.
Filtered water.
Synthetic fiber.
Dry mix for self-levelling.
Bulk ingredient for dry screed.
Construction beacons. They can be metal, plaster or made in the form of a stretched thread.
Building level. Many progressive builders today use a laser level.
Container for mixing solution. It is more convenient and more expedient to use a concrete mixer.
Mixer for preparing the solution.
Rule, trowel, all kinds of spatulas, rollers and other accessories for leveling.

Do-it-yourself floor leveling technology

Each type of floor leveling has its own technology. The first step for everyone is preparing the subfloor, cleaning and removing the old flooring, repairing possible cracks and dilapidated areas.

Detailed step by step instructions

Dry way:

Priming concrete surface to increase the strength of the base.
Laying polyethylene film 20 cm overlap for waterproofing. Sheets of film are fastened with adhesive tape. Along the walls of the room there are allowances for folds of 15 cm, then they are sealed with a damper tape.
In the absence of leveling experience, it is recommended to install U-shaped profile metal beacons.
Backfilling in the resulting cells of the granular mixture. Layer thickness - 5 - 7 cm. It is leveled by the rule.
Flooring sheet material. Plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, can be used here. At the same time, the joints of the material are glued with PVA glue and tightened with self-tapping screws.

Cement-sand method:

Priming and surface drying.
Laying waterproofing material.
Installation of beacons. The work is done using the level. Metal profiles, pipes, boards, timber are used as beacons - they are fixed on a dried solution at a distance of no more than 1 m from each other.
Reinforcement with metal reinforcement or reinforcing mesh.
Backfilling the mortar, gradually from the far edge of the room, and quick leveling with the rule. It is necessary to move not only along the lighthouses, but also in circular motions for a strong compaction of the material. Do not delay the process of pouring the cement-sand layer, in order to avoid the formation of "cold joints".
Cutting shrink joints every 3 m is recommended to prevent cracks in the finished screed.
Wetting with water during drying. The first time in a day, then on the second day and then for a week.

If on the second day it is already possible to walk on the screed, then beacons are removed from it and the resulting gaps are sealed with concrete mortar. Such a base for the floor is covered with a film to prevent rapid drying and cracking. Continue repair work allowed only after complete drying after 1 month.

For the semi-dry method, polyethylene, roofing material hydroisol can be used as waterproofing. The production technology is similar to a cement-sand screed with a slight difference: a semi-dry mixture is used instead of a concrete solution, and it is laid in two layers.

The first layer is compacted tightly, the second layer is leveled with a rule and immediately polished. After a day, expansion joints 3 mm wide are cut on the finished screed. The coating is covered with a film for a period of a week.

Application of self-levelling compound

For convenience, using a construction mixer, a solution for pouring is prepared according to the instructions on the package. The solution is poured quickly onto the primed surface and leveled with a spatula or a special roller in order to expel air bubbles.

The solution hardens within half an hour, however, at least 3 days must pass before complete drying.

To prepare a reliable solution of a cement-sand screed, the following is used: cement grade M500, sifted sand without any contamination, water. Water is added at the rate of 1 liter per 1 kg of cement.

It is allowed to use ready-made building mixtures for pouring - M150, M200, M400. The larger the number in the abbreviation of the name, the stronger the foundation will be.

To correctly prepare a semi-dry mixture, you will need cement, sand and water, and the addition of fiber fibers. fibers in this case the best way to replace the reinforcing mesh:

Cement and sand are mixed dry in a ratio of 1:3.
A mixture of water with fiber is added in portions, the amount at the rate of 80 g per screed layer with an area of 1 m 2 and a thickness of 1 cm.
Mixing continues until the consistency of sandy loam, i.e. resemble clay sand, when squeezed by hand, no water should be released from the lump.

When solving such an important issue in repair, it is worthwhile to correctly consider the choice of materials and the leveling method, taking into account the humidity and temperature conditions in the room, the slope of the base, as well as the expected operational load on the floor.

Is it possible to use self-leveling floor Miners Thin to level individual
sections of the floor (pits 5 mm deep), without flooding the entire surface of the floor, so as not to raise
floor level?

Can. But is it necessary?

The self-levelling compound will, of course, fill the pits. However, it should be taken into account that the self-level, as well as any other liquid, colloid or suspension, is affected by the force of surface tension.

The force of surface tension does not allow a liquid or suspension to spread flush with the surface on which it is located.

And although the composition includes modifying additives that increase fluidity, the border between intact and filled with self-leveling floor areas will not be smooth. The surface of the filled "puddle" will spread horizontally, but after hardening, its edges will be slightly raised above the general level.

The joint between the self-leveling floor and the unfilled screed will not be even

You can reduce this effect by pre-wetting the edges of the proposed filling and leveling with a spatula problem areas at the moment when the composition is just beginning to set.

When leveling individual sections of the screed with a leveling compound, its edges should be leveled with the rule

But the difference will still be noticeable. Perhaps you will be satisfied with this result. For example, if the floor is being prepared for facing with tiles larger than 10x10 cm, a difference of 1-2 mm is not critical. But if we are talking about preparation for a bulk epoxy coating, mosaic tiles, thin linoleum is unacceptable. Also, differences will create problems when laying floating floors if the substrate is thinner than 3 mm.

When preparing the surface for floating floors (laminate, parquet board) does not have a horizontal surface of great importance.

Irregularities can be sanded, manually or with a grinder. This is not very difficult, but it will take time, in the process of work fine dust will scatter around the room, you will have to spend money on abrasive materials.

Small irregularities are easy to remove with a "grinder" with an abrasive wheel

By leveling with a self-leveling compound only separate sections indoors, you may not get the desired result. If the floor plane is strictly horizontal, and we are really talking only about a couple of “pits”, your plan will work and, by grinding the edges of the fills, you will get a flat floor, albeit with additional time and effort.

If the screed is horizontal, and only individual holes need to be eliminated, it makes sense to fill the floor with fragments, it will only be necessary to grind the joints

If there is no common horizon, you risk getting a surface consisting of “patches”, the middle of which is horizontal, the edges are raised, but there is still no general level. To remedy the situation, you will have to grind the entire surface with a grinder or fill it again with a level, but already the entire area.

Grinding the entire surface of the floor with an industrial grinder is troublesome, dusty and expensive

We recommend that before deciding to level the screed in fragments, carefully check the level of the floor over the entire area. If there is no common horizon, it makes sense to fill it with a self-leveling compound entirely, this will provide you with a perfect result. Fortunately, the self-leveling floor "Prospectors Thin" normally spreads even with a millimeter layer (recommended - 1-20 mm). Relative to the highest point, the level of the floor will practically not rise. By calculating the average layer thickness, you can determine the dry mix consumption using the online calculator: http://poli-nalivniye.starateli.ru/catalog/228-228

You will get a guaranteed even and horizontal surface if you fill the entire floor area with a self-leveler. Of course, subject to strict adherence to the manufacturer's recommendations

If you still don’t want to fill the entire area (for example, you need a flat plane, not a level), and the floor has a slope, we recommend filling the holes not with a level, but with tile adhesive. Just use not a cheap mixture, but a composition for complex bases, it is stronger and better adheres to the surface of the screed. Glue "Prospectors Lux" is quite suitable. You can level the plastic mixture with the rule.

A few words about the technology of leveling the screed with a self-leveling floor. It is very important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Violation of the proportion of mixing with water, non-compliance with the time of work with the mixture will inevitably lead to marriage. The technology of production of works should be observed in the most strict manner. The surface of the screed must be durable, thoroughly cleaned beforehand, dust-free, impregnated with a primer intended for concrete.

Deep penetrating primer mineral surfaces strengthens the surface of concrete, improves the adhesion of self-leveling or tile adhesive to it

In order to level the floor with its subsequent finishing, we need to properly prepare its base. Few of the owners can boast of having absolutely even floors in their apartment. We have floors not only with an uneven surface, but also with an uneven plane, and therefore, this has a very negative effect on the future flooring, and also negatively affects the operation of the room. Well, let's devote our article today entirely to the initial stage of floor repair - leveling. Next, we will consider why it is necessary to level the floor, with the help of which building mixtures you can level the floor, and also consider ways to level the floor with your own hands.

Why you need to level the floor

Many beginners ask themselves: why level the floor? The answer to this question is based on several factors. It is wrong to produce any floor finish on an uneven and unprepared surface.

Firstly, if you lay, for example, then the unevenness of the floor will be immediately visible on its surface. When laying on flat surface laminate or parquet, it can creak in the area of roughness or simply begin to deform and crack, especially at the joints.

Secondly, an uneven floor negatively affects the furniture when it stands skewed in the bottom side.

Thirdly, if you decide to take up the floor, then this must be done thoroughly, and not, as the people say: “tyap-blunder”.

You can level the floor yourself and for this it is not necessary to hire a team of builders and make unnecessary waste, because you can do this work yourself, there is absolutely nothing complicated about them.

Floor preparation for leveling

Of course, before leveling the floor, it must be cleaned and all necessary for further work measurements and calculations. In view of the fact that the preparatory stage of the floor before leveling plays a very important role, we will dwell on it in more detail.

Initially, we must remove the existing flooring: linoleum, boards, floor tiles, plinth, etc. After you have dismantled the old floor material, the floor must be well cleaned of debris and dust.

Then, using two levels, long and small, we proceed to measure the level of the surface and the plane of the floor. What is the difference between a surface and a plane - you need to know for any leveling work. The surface of the floor, probably everyone understands that this is the level of the floor itself, but the plane of the floor, remember the course of geometry, is the location of the plate itself, or rather its evenness. In other words, we can say that the surface of the floor is the surface of the floor slab, and the plane of the slab is how correctly (even or crooked) it is laid.

To begin with, we take a long level and determine the so-called big picture from it in order to know what we have to work with. Thus, with the help of this level, we determine the plane of the slab, its evenness of laying. Knowing the skills of our builders, and how interestingly they built houses, very often our floor slab can be laid crookedly, which means that we will need a lot of leveling mixture on that part of the slope. Next, with the help of a long and a small level, we check the floor surface itself and the irregularities present on it. When we have made all the level measurements, we make a decision regarding the method of leveling the floor, which we will discuss below.

After you have taken measurements, consider laying any communications in the floor. Such communications can be autonomous heating pipes, electrical wiring, television and network cable, etc., all wires must be laid in the corrugation.

The final stage of preparation for leveling the floor will be the primer of its surface. For some reason, some people neglect this issue, either for the sake of economy, or because they do not understand the importance of this process. Firstly, the primer will provide a high-quality and reliable connection between the cement screed and the floor. Secondly, the primer will prevent the possible formation of cracks on the leveling screed, and also contributes to waterproofing. To prime the surface, carefully clean the floor surface, after which, using a roller, thoroughly treat the floor with a primer, not sparing it. After 2-4 hours, depending on the room temperature, the primer should dry.

What are the types of floor leveling

Today, 3 types of floor leveling are used:

Alignment with a self-leveling floor;

Alignment with the help of a leveling solution, “along the beacons”;

Alignment with wooden lag.

It is in this sequence, in which we have listed the ways of leveling the floors, that they have a frequency of application. Let's look at the features and differences between these floor leveling methods.

self-leveling floor

The self-leveling floor is made using an appropriate mixture, which is prepared in special proportions with water in order to ensure its uniform spreading around the entire perimeter of the room. Thus, you do not need to produce hard work with kneading cement mixture, its uniform distribution and alignment by the rule.

This method will help you solve the issue of an uneven floor, if there are minor irregularities on its surface or if the plane of the slab goes a little to the side. Based on the depth of the irregularities and the "care" of the slab, it is necessary to calculate the level of the floor filling, while keeping in mind that the self-leveling floor should be from 3 to 35 mm high. Accordingly, if you need a screed over 35mm to level the floor, then this option is not suitable for you. In other cases, we recommend using this particular method of leveling the floor, in view of its prostate and low cost.

Lighthouse Alignment

A distinctive feature of this method of leveling the floor from the previous one is that a completely different leveling procedure is used here, first the so-called beacons are built along which the floor is actually leveled, that is, the beacons are an approximate level, the height of the new floor.

With this method, you can even out significant surface irregularities and floor planes. In addition, this method is suitable if you want to lay any communications in the floor, and if so, they must be hidden under a sufficient layer of screed, which can be solved by leveling with a leveling mortar.

Leveling with wooden joists

Unlike previous methods, this method does not use cement and other leveling mixtures. The alignment procedure consists in the fact that, with a step of several centimeters from each other, special anchors are mounted on special anchors. wooden slats, to adjustable height. Thus, you can raise the level of the floor to the height you need, and carry out overall communication structures under the floor, or else produce inter-floor insulation.

This type of floor leveling is suitable in cases where you have a cold floor, most often it happens in private houses or on the first floors. apartment buildings, thanks to which there is space between the slab and the floor surface that can be used for laying insulation. Also, this method is an excellent solution if it is planned to carry out ventilation, drain and other overall communications under the floor.

Floor leveling methods

After you have decided on the method of leveling the floor, having completed all the preparatory steps in advance, we proceed to the leveling procedure. We will consider each alignment procedure in more detail.

Self leveling floor

As mentioned earlier, the self-leveling floor includes a fairly simple leveling procedure. Self-leveling floors are a self-leveling mixture, due to its rare consistency, it spreads over the entire floor area, thereby more mixture flows into the places of depressions and recesses, less into the places of sagging.

To make a self-leveling floor, you need to purchase a special mixture, where it will be written: "for self-leveling floor." On the packaging of this mixture, it will be written in what proportions it is diluted. To dilute the mixture, you will need a container, preferably a plastic bucket, as it will be more convenient for them to fill in the leveling mixture. We pour the required amount of the dry mixture, pour the indicated amount of water and knead the bulk substance in this container.

Further, when the bulk mixture is ready, from the far corner we make a gradual filling of the substance, moving towards the exit. The mixture should spread over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room. When the mixture has spread, we take a needle roller and use it to get rid of possible air bubbles that may be in bulk mixture. Roll out very carefully, in different directions several times, this is necessary not only to exclude air bubbles inside the mixture, but also to evenly distribute the bulk mixture. The height of the needles in the roller must be greater than the height of the layer of bulk mixture. It is worth noting that if you use this method to level the floor in big room, then the filling must be done by first dividing the room into sectors, but at the same time try to do everything quickly so that all sectors are connected together.

The advantage of the self-leveling floor is that it dries quickly and after a few hours you will be able to carry out further repairs.

Now for the calculations. If the area of your room is 8 square meters, then for a self-leveling floor you will need at least 6 bags of leveling compound.

Leveling the floor with a leveler

Now let's look at the second way to level the floor - along the beacons. When the floor surface is prepared: cleaned and treated with a primer, we take special slats, which we will serve as beacons. Why "beacons" and what kind of rails are they? Let's start in order.

Since for this leveling method we will use a thick leveling mixture, it will not spread by itself, and therefore we will need to level it ourselves. If you think logically, then how can you level the room in this case? To do this, the so-called beacons are laid along the room, according to the level of which we will level the floor. As beacons can be used as perforated metal corners, and any similar equal metal material, but of course, it is best to give preference to perforated corners.

So, for laying beacons, we retreat from a parallel wall a few centimeters, in steps of a meter, and we lay them across the room. We fix the beacons themselves to the floor with the help of a building mixture: alabaster, or cement. With slapping movements, using a spatula, we apply a small amount of the mixture in a row, the layer of which depends on the new level of the floor. Then we put the beacon on top and level it. After making sure that it is evenly laid, we fill the voids between the floor and the lighthouse with this mixture. Then we do this procedure with the rest of the beacons. When the beacons are securely fixed, we begin work.

From the far corner, in the opening between the first and second lighthouses, we throw in a special cement mortar so that it is slightly above the level of the lighthouses and, using the rule, move to the sides, towards ourselves, and then level it from ourselves, relying on the lighthouses with the rule given area. Use a section no longer than a meter for alignment. Then, in the same way, we level the rest of the floor.

Such a floor will dry for at least 3 days. As for the amount of the mixture used, it is very difficult to name it, since it will depend on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the height of the floor being increased.

Leveling the floor with wooden logs

Well, the last option for leveling the floor is with the help of rails. In order to properly level the floor with wooden logs on your own, you will need special anchor bolts. Such a bolt consists of the anchor itself, which is inserted into the concrete floor and tightened with a nut, and a long threaded base, onto which the fixing nut is screwed and a washer is placed, then we insert it through a pre-made hole wooden logs, put a washer on top of the lag on the anchor and fix it on top with a nut.

Thus, we mount the logs on the anchors, which are installed in increments of 50-60 cm from each other, and then, using the level, we adjust their evenness. Between the lags themselves there should be a distance of about 20-30 cm. In the upper part of the log, it is necessary to make special grooves so that the nut does not protrude beyond the surface of the log.

If necessary, heat-insulating material, such as glass wool, can be laid under the logs. Such a floor will be perfectly insulated and has good sound insulation. On top of the lag, the very surface of the new floor is made from plywood, or from chipboard sheets.

Frequent questions that beginners ask when leveling the floor:

How to level a concrete floor

If the concrete floor surface is flat and you need a high quality leveling concrete surface floor, then the self-leveling floor is the most the best option to solve this problem.

How to level the floor under linoleum and parquet

Produced from these materials requires a perfectly flat surface, so it is recommended to use leveling with a self-leveling floor again. If the floor is very uneven, then its alignment can be done using a leveling solution. If for some reason the surface is not even enough, you can make a second layer of the floor, self-leveling, to obtain a high-quality even surface.

How to level the floor in the bathroom

If you are puzzling over the question: how to level the floor under the tiles in the bathroom, then there can be 2 ways to do this. The first way: to make a preliminary leveling of the floor surface and lay the tiles directly on this surface. The second way: leveling the floor directly when laying the tiles, that is, when you apply a large layer of adhesive mixture on the floor or tiles (depending on the laying technology) and level the floor already on the laid tiles.

Video instructions for leveling the floor:

When conducting overhaul the question always arises in the apartment: what to do with the floors? If you plan to lay new laminate or tile, or simply change the linoleum flooring, it is imperative to level the floor before doing so. Carrying out such work is necessary, since the quality and durability of the future coating depends on their implementation. How to level the floor in the apartment and can you do it yourself?

Dry and bulk methods

The preservation of the appearance of the future flooring and its service life directly depend on the preparation of the base. Sometimes it is enough to carry out alignment with the help of a substrate: this option is suitable for covering soft linoleum. Tiles and laminate require more careful preparatory work, as they can swell even because of a very small unevenness.

Now builders use several methods in finishing work, the choice of a specific method depends on the presence of a slope and differences between levels. The floors are leveled dry or bulk.

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With the dry method, logs and crossbars are placed and fixed on a previously cleaned floor. Sheets of plywood, pre-treated with an antiseptic, are laid on the resulting lattice, and then the seams are poured with sealant.

For self-leveling floor, or "wet floor", use special building mixtures, main characteristic which is the setting time. When pouring a large surface, it is impossible to fill it completely at once; in such cases, limiters are purchased, with which the floor is divided into sections. The use of this method is justified with level differences up to 3 cm.

What is the best way to level the floor in the apartment? Among the main methods that are most often used, there are:

Special self-leveling compounds;
Cement-sand screed;
Plywood alignment.

Use of special mixtures

First you need to make a base by laying the logs. In the case of a wooden floor, check the fastening of all boards, if any of them are springy, they must be firmly screwed to the logs with self-tapping screws. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be deepened inward - below the floor level, otherwise they themselves may cause damage to the future laminate flooring.

The base of the floor is cleaned of old paint and debris; at the end of the cleaning, they must be polished.

If there are gaps or voids between the boards, it is recommended to coat them well with acrylic-based putty. Once the surface is dry and ready for next works, it is necessary to treat it with a moisture-proof primer. In preparation for pouring the floor, the walls are pasted over with waterproofing.

Waterproofing is necessary for many types of screed.

In the case of concrete floor slabs in the apartment, the surface is also cleared of all kinds of debris, and the existing cracks are filled with a ready-made mixture solution. After complete drying of the filled cracks, the surface is also pre-primed.

After completion of the preparatory stage, it is necessary to establish the level of the future floor. To do this, you need to read the manufacturer's instructions for the mixture chosen for pouring the floor. The thickness of the fill must not exceed the value specified by the manufacturer.

Mesh to strengthen the screed.

To mark the level in the doorway to the room, a bar is installed, equal in height to the thickness of the future floor. If you need to not only level the surface, but also raise it, then you will have to fill the mixture in two stages. To make the floor more durable, a reinforced mesh is attached to the wooden base. The mesh is fastened with a construction stapler with an overlap of at least 5 cm.

You can also fill the floor with a special mixture yourself, difficulties may arise during the preparatory work. If you doubt that you can handle it yourself, then it is better to call a floor leveling specialist in apartments.

Building materials stores offer big choice dry mixes for the preparation of self-leveling mortars with certain characteristics: accelerated or delayed hardening process, deep leveling mixes in the presence of serious irregularities.

The mixture solution for pouring is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions. Following the instructions in the instructions is very important to obtain a quality result. It is necessary to use the mixture immediately after preparation - the time of use is also indicated in the instructions.

Self-levelling floor compounds are special self-levelling compounds on which the floor covering is laid after curing. The composition of the mixture itself includes several components:

Binders (gypsum or cement is used);
Aggregate (this role is played by fine-grained sand);
Special additives (affect the ease of installation, the rate of solidification of the mixture);
Glue, pigments.

How to level the floors in the apartment with a prepared composition? The prepared base with reinforced mesh is poured with mortar. Then, with a spatula and a rubber squeegee, the mixture is distributed over the surface and finally leveled. If necessary, the needle roller releases excess air. After all the described procedures, it remains only to wait for the mixture to solidify completely and proceed to the installation of the floor covering.

Cement-sand screed

This method of leveling the floor surface is traditional. As a result of the work, you will receive a solid and reliable foundation for future flooring.

The order of work with a cement-sand screed is as follows. First, as well as when using mixtures, the surface must be cleaned: elements of the old finish, paint, debris are removed. The entire base is carefully primed.

Then, before pouring the solution, it is necessary to install special beacons in the form of T-shaped profiles. They are attached to a thick cement-sand mortar, you will be guided by these beacons during the pour itself. It is important to allow the solution to dry completely so that the fixtures do not move further.

Necessary steps installation of cement-sand screed.

How to level the floor in the apartment with cement-sand mortar? The solution is poured between two beacons in the far corner. Then, using a long rule, it must be distributed over the entire surface, while controlling the uniformity of distribution.

It is necessary to work as a rule not only along the lighthouses, but also not to forget about circular movements: this will help the solution fill all the voids.

Many people can cope with a cement-sand screed, it is very important to properly ensure its further drying. Among the main recommendations, it is necessary to note the processing of the filling with a wet roller on the second and third days construction works. After the screed has dried, when it is already possible to walk on it, it will be possible to remove the beacons.

When the screed dries, it must be constantly moistened.

The voids formed after them are filled with a ready-made solution. The floor is then covered with polyethylene and continues to be treated with a wet roller every two days. For complete drying of the screed, it is recommended to withstand it for 2-4 weeks, after which you can start laying the floor covering.

Dry screed and plywood installation

Using the dry screed method is the easiest option for leveling floors. How to level the floor in the least time-consuming way? If you decide to do all the work yourself, then you can deal with a dry screed without experience in this kind of construction work. As materials you will need bulk material and sheets of plywood. Expanded clay or sand is suitable as bulk material; expanded polystyrene can be used for these purposes.

All work, similar to the previous version of the floor screed, begins and its cleaning and priming. The concrete base is cleaned of debris and impregnated with a primer to improve waterproofing characteristics. After the primer has completely dried, the floor is covered with polyethylene: its sheets are overlapped and fastened with adhesive tape. On the walls it is necessary to leave an overlap of a film measuring 15 cm.

For reference, beacons are installed, for which inverted U-shaped metal profiles are taken for drywall constructions. After installation, the floor of your apartment is divided into cells. The selected bulk material is poured into these cells, which must be carefully aligned with the rule.

Installation of plywood sheets.

Plywood sheets must be fixed on top of the bulk material. It is recommended to choose FC class 4/4 plywood. Instead, you can use gypsum fiber boards, characterized by excellent moisture resistance, sheets of fiberboard or chipboard. The choice of material depends on the preferences of the owner of the apartment. The joints between the sheets are coated with sealant. As a result of the work carried out, a smooth and warm floor is obtained, ready for further finishing.

If you need to level the wooden floor

How to level the floor in the apartment if it is wooden? This can be done using self-leveling compounds, but the most popular way in this case is to lay plywood sheets on logs.

The floor surface is cleaned, then beacons are installed - for this you can use ordinary self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are screwed in with a screwdriver at the corners of squares with a side of 30 cm. All beacons are installed at the same level. After that, logs begin to be laid on the floor - plywood strips 3-4 cm wide.

Logs are attached to the floor surface with wood glue (a PVA carpenter will do) or simply with self-tapping screws. Before laying, plywood sheets are cut into identical squares with a side of about 60 cm. Squares with delamination cannot be used to level the floor; it is better to replace them immediately. The resulting plywood sheets are installed on the logs so that their joints fall exactly on the logs.

Laying plywood is recommended to be carried out with an offset so that four joints do not connect at one point. To do this, plywood squares can be cut a little. If it is planned to lay tiles in the future, then the plywood sheets need to be roughly sanded and varnished. If the floor is being leveled for laminate flooring, it is recommended that a polyethylene or cork underlay be applied to the plywood before covering.

How best to level the floor in the apartment with your own hands depends on the time available and the experience of such work. Dry screed requires less time and is less labor intensive than other options. Bulk leveling is convenient when installing a warm floor, since if necessary it will be easier to get to the installed heating elements. This floor leveling method is suitable for do-it-yourself work.

Cement-sand screed takes a long time to dry completely. The strength of such a floor will largely depend on the provision of all conditions for the drying of the solution. If improperly processed, the cement may crack. The use of self-leveling mixtures requires experience in similar work, because if the mixture is poorly distributed, voids may form in the mortar layer. To level the floors in these ways, it is better to contact specialists.

Overhaul often forces the owners to resort to leveling existing surfaces, and this applies not only to vertical, but also to horizontal areas. Proper preparation of the base has a direct impact on the durability and attractiveness of finishing materials, so this issue must be approached with all responsibility. Today we will talk about how to properly level the floor and what tools are best suited for this.

Peculiarities

If you want your home to look aesthetically pleasing and not be ashamed to show it to guests, then it is necessary to think through and refine all the details in it. This applies not only to the color of the finish or furniture design, but also to the neat and even appearance of the surfaces. It's no secret that "wave-like" ceilings or floors are most often striking. Such defects can spoil even the most stylish and original interior its unpresentability.

To avoid such troubles, it is worth leveling the surfaces that need it. It is necessary to carry out such work before you decide on the floor finish. It can be good old linoleum, laminate, parquet board, expensive massive board, soft carpet or tile. All of these coatings require a perfectly flat subfloor. If you lay them on an uneven rough base, they will look sloppy and will not last very long.

Leveling the floor can be done by hand. In this case, you need to be as careful as possible. In no case do not start work without reading the instructions for the selected material. Incorrect actions can lead to noticeable deformations of the base, which will not be so easy to get rid of.

It is worth noting that floor leveling must be addressed not only in the process of repairing a city apartment, but also in a private house. Modern manufacturers produce many varieties of leveling compounds, the drying of which does not have to wait too long.

In addition, thanks to a wide range there are different ways to lay the leveler on the subfloor, so best option every consumer can choose.

materials

Do not think that only dry mixes are sold for leveling the floor, which must be diluted with water. In fact, others are great for such purposes. practical materials with which it is easy and convenient to work. Let's consider them in more detail.

Plywood

This material is the most practical in matters of dry leveling. Floor screed using such parts is less expensive, especially when compared with the use of special expensive mixtures.

If you are going to renovate a room in which there is high humidity, then it is worth turning to moisture-resistant raw materials. In addition to the good old plywood, you can use GVLV, MDF, OSB, chipboard or chipboard.

The choice of plywood base should be approached quite seriously. Depending on the height of the floor differences, sheets of the appropriate thickness should be selected. Also, the type of finish you choose and the method of laying it affect the purchase of leveling plywood. So, for soft carpet or elastic linoleum, it is permissible to install plywood sheets of small thickness. This choice is due to the fact that these finishing products do not require a perfectly flat base.

If we are talking about such popular coatings as laminate or parquet board, then it is worth buying plywood, the thickness of which is at least 12 mm. It should be thicker, as the above floor coverings require the most even surface for installation.

There are no phenols and other similar compounds in the composition of FC sheets. Such materials are absolutely safe for human health even at high temperatures. In addition, FC specimens have an average moisture resistance and resistance to mechanical damage.

If the space holds high humidity, then you should contact to plywood brand FSF. This material is more durable and wear-resistant. He is not afraid of temperature changes. However, such good performance FSF plywood acquires due to the use of harmful formaldehyde resins in the production process. These substances are toxic and hazardous to human health.

In accordance with GOST, plywood sheets of the following grades are produced:

1 grade. These are products that have the highest quality. There is not the slightest defect on their surface. However, GOST allows for small cracks (no more than 20 cm), as well as the presence of minimal warping of the material.
2 grade. For this grade, materials are made in which minimal glue seepage and wood inserts are acceptable. On the surface of such sheets, scratches and dents can be seen, which occupy about 5% of the total surface area available.
3 grade. Material in this category may have noticeable traces of wormholes on the surface, as well as intergrown and fallen knots.
4 grade. Such materials are of the lowest quality. They have many different defects that appear during their production. But despite the big shortcomings, the veneer, as a rule, is glued with high quality and reliably.

Majority experienced craftsmen advises to turn to plywood grade 2.

Among other things, this leveling material is sanded and unpolished. This parameter is indicated by the letter "Ш":

The designation "Sh1" means that the plywood is produced with one-sided grinding;
"Sh-2" - double-sided;
"NSh" - unpolished material.

On sanded plywood sheets, you can find designations of the free formaldehyde emission class (as is the case with laminated chipboard):

"E-1" means the presence of 10 milligrams for every 10 g of plywood;
"E-2" - 10-30 mgm per 100 g of dry weight.

Expanded clay

Currently, there are many different materials that are most often used in leveling the floor before finishing. However, there are cases when there is nothing better than the preparation of the base with expanded clay. This old one and all known material irreplaceable in the following cases:

If the height difference of the base is more than 10 cm. If you install a classic concrete screed on such a surface, then its weight can form a serious load on the floors. Expanded clay is recognized as one of the lightest and most undemanding materials. It does not overload the floor structure at all.
If the base is presented reinforced concrete slab. This material is cold. This is noticeable in the conditions of the lower floors. With the help of expanded clay, you can fix this problem, as it can make the floor a little warmer.
If under the sexual level there are various additional communications or electrical systems heating.
If the repair budget is significantly limited. It is worth noting here that leveling the floor with expanded clay will cost the owners much less than a heavy concrete screed.

The main advantages of expanded clay include the following distinctive characteristics:

Environmental friendliness. Expanded clay, even under conditions of temperature fluctuations, does not emit harmful substances and does not contain hazardous compounds.
Durability. It serves for a very long time and does not create any problems during operation.
thermal insulation characteristics.
Noise isolation properties.
Fire safety. Expanded clay is not a flammable material.
Resistant to temperature extremes.
Low cost.

Experts say with confidence that such material is considered an excellent solution for leveling hopeless foundations. It is often used to tidy up foundations with pits and a slope exceeding 10 cm.

In addition, with the help of expanded clay, you will not only make the floor even, but also provide it with additional noise and heat insulation.

Drywall

Drywall sheets can also be used to level the subfloor. It is laid on the subfloor only after it has been completely cleaned of the previous finish and debris / dust. In addition, to finish the base with drywall, it must be sprinkled with sand. It must completely cover all cracks and irregularities that are visible in the base.

The sand on the floor must be properly loosened and leveled with high quality so that its layer becomes as even as possible and is located over the entire area of the room. It is worth considering that the sand layer should not be thicker than 2-3 cm.

If there are small depressions at the base, then they must be eliminated using a cement-sand composition.

Only after that drywall can be laid out on the floor. Between its plates you need to leave small gaps of 5 mm. In this gap, it will be necessary to fill in a sealant with special protective properties. The ideal option would be special composition designed for ceramic tiles. It can be found in almost any hardware store.

Immediately after the drywall sheets are laid out on the sandy base layer, the resulting coating must be treated with a special primer. It must be different deep penetration. After all the actions taken, it is quite possible to proceed to the installation of the finishing floor material. For example, beautiful self-leveling floors are very popular today, under which a plasterboard leveling base is often mounted. From above they can be supplemented with laminate or parquet board.

fiberboard

This is another common material used in floor leveling. Today, many consumers turn to fiberboard, as it is inexpensive and its installation is quite straightforward. For the manufacture of such coatings, the remains of wood production (shavings, sawdust) are used. Characteristics and properties chipboard largely depend on the level of its density, which, as a rule, varies from 150 to 950 kg/sq.m.

It is worth noting that high-quality fiberboard has good thermal insulation properties, so it is often chosen as a leveling coating. Often, such canvases are laid on top of a cement screed. Also, many consumers opt for fiberboard sheets due to environmental friendliness. In their composition, to a greater extent there are wastes of natural wood.

Such coatings are installed quite easily and quickly. Even a person who is far from repair work can easily cope with this work.

If you install fiberboard boards correctly and accurately, they will last for many years and will not cause any trouble to the household.

Mixes

To level the floor, not only various hard and dry bases are used, but also appropriate building mixtures. They differ from each other in composition, drying speed and other operational characteristics. Let's take a closer look at the most common products that are popular with modern buyers.

Cement and cement-sand

These mixtures are among the most popular. They are classified as universal, since there are many of their modifications. Thanks to a wide range of cement and cement-sand compositions, you can choose for any room and any operating conditions.

Currently in stores you can meet quality options for leveling the base, having a different structure, a different number of influxes and recesses. Most quality cement compositions do not shrink.

You can increase the strength characteristics of this equalizer using regular glue PVA. It shouldn't be too much.

But it should be borne in mind that the hardening of the composition with the adhesive will take a little less time, which means that all work will have to be done even faster. To do this, you can pour it in small portions on different parts of the available area in the room. It is also worth noting that cleaning putty with PVA glue is more laborious. Some people are turning to a stronger tile adhesive. It will be even more difficult to work with him.

Gypsum

Gypsum equalizers are recommended to be used only in rooms with a low percentage of humidity. Also, they are not advised to be installed in rooms subject to regular jumps in temperature values. These recommendations are explained by the fact that gypsum mixtures are able to absorb moisture. This can lead to swelling of the base and loss of its useful characteristics. Such defects are unlikely to have a positive effect on finishing floor coverings.

A distinctive characteristic of gypsum bases is their vapor permeability and lack of shrinkage. Often, such a mixture is addressed in the case of not the most reliable sexual base. In addition, all factory mixtures are divided according to their main purpose and application technology.

Leveling

Such compositions are necessary for the primary finishing of the rough surface, which has many defects and irregularities. With the help of such tools, very strong and reliable foundations up to 50 mm are created. As a rule, these types of equalizers are applied manual method. The material is used exclusively as a special layer. This is due to the fact that large sand particles are present in the composition of the leveling agents, which do not allow the formation of perfectly smooth and regular coatings.

Self leveling

Similar mixtures are used for the implementation of the finish coating. Its thickness can be from 2 to 10 mm. As a rule, such self-leveling has a viscous consistency. It contains small finely dispersed particles, which are evenly distributed over the required area by means of self-spreading.

There are special self-leveling quick-drying mixtures. To fill such a tool, one filling material is enough. Often, a small work team copes with the application of quick-setting agents, in which one or another function is assigned to each of the workers. For example, it can be the direct preparation of the required amount of the mixture, pouring the mortar onto the floor base, spreading it over the surface of the base using a special tool, as well as the necessary removal of air bubbles with a roller.

Some work crews use a rotband to level the floor. However, according to user feedback, this composition is not distinguished by durability and strength, therefore, its use is generally abandoned in favor of more reliable formulations.

Level detection

Floor level can be determined different ways. You can use the following tools for this:

Rack bubble level. The standard line of this device, as a rule, is 1 m, however, in stores you can find two- and three-meter products. These items are inexpensive, easy to use and very comfortable to work with. Besides, bubble levels do not depend on electricity, which makes them autonomous and more practical. True, too large spaces you can't measure them.
Hydraulic level. Bubble levels allow you to determine the condition of the floor only in small or medium-sized rooms. For more spacious rooms it is worth buying a quality hydraulic level. It consists of special tubular vessels. In the inside of this device is tinted water, with the help of which the surface level is determined.

Laser. Using it is very easy and simple. Most models are highly efficient. To determine the desired parameters, it is quite enough to fix the tool in the desired position (for this you should read the instructions). All other actions will be performed by the level itself.
Rotary. With this device, you can not only determine the level of curvature of the floor, but also set and design the values obtained. As a rule, such high-tech items are used by professionals, which is why it is quite expensive.
Optic. Such devices are more common for measuring territorial areas of the outer part of the premises. However, this does not prevent their use in matters of determining the curvature of the floor. Optical levels are in many ways similar to rotary levels, however, their use in spacious rooms will give more accurate results.

Surface preparation

Before direct alignment of the sexual base, it is necessary to make it proper training. You should not neglect this process if you want the floor covering to serve you for a long time and without problems.

First you need to carefully measure the room in which you plan to level the floor. Then you can choose suitable materials and methods of their installation. During the preparatory work, various problems associated with flooring. At the same stage, the level of the existing foundation should be studied. For this, various levels are used, both liquid and laser (their list is indicated above).

Maximum efficiency screeding ensures the use of material that would fit the irregularities found on the surface of the base. For a floor that is in almost perfect condition, it is recommended to use high-quality leveling agents or self-leveling of well-known brands.

If there are noticeable differences on the base, then it is better to turn to sheet levelers or apply cement-sand screeds.

wood flooring

Absolutely any gender can lose its attractive appearance over time. appearance and imperceptibly deform. This trouble did not bypass the quality wooden coverings. Over time, old and dry floors can warp and sag, irrevocably losing their ideal evenness. Ugly gaps often appear between individual boards. On such bases it will not be possible to correctly and accurately lay out the finishing decorative materials, that's why in this case, it is impossible to do without leveling the existing system.

You can give the plank base a flat surface with your own hands using the following methods:

scraping;
leveling using flat materials based on wood (plywood, fiberboard or MDF);
leveling using a self-made mixture consisting of putty for sawdust and natural wood;
pouring special self-leveling compounds.

Most often people choose alignment similar structures with the help of plywood, since the differences between the boards of a wooden floor often become very impressive. For such work, it is recommended to use a sheet of plywood standard dimensions. It is cut into 4 pieces. The cut should be made very carefully so that delamination does not appear on the edges of the sheets.

After these steps, it is quite possible to proceed to laying levelers on the base. The joints between the laid coatings should be above the joists. In areas where communications are located and in other necessary places, plywood must be cut (just as carefully to prevent delamination). After that, the sheets are attached to the base on self-tapping screws with hidden heads. This leveling method is not the most aesthetic, but for the finishing layer it is an excellent solution that will perfectly hide all the irregularities of the wooden base.

concrete base

Quite often it is necessary to make leveling in rooms with a concrete floor base. In this case, there is a simple step-by-step instruction that will help you carry out all the steps to update the surface quickly and correctly.

If the concrete base has not too sharp and noticeable drops, then it is best to use modern self-leveling mixtures, which are sold in every hardware store. As a rule, the main component in them is cement. To perform work with such a tool you need:

pour the dry composition with water;
stir well so that there are no lumps and dry particles left in it;
gradually (in portions) lay it out on concrete (for this you can call an assistant to the rescue).

The self-leveling mortar must fill absolutely all the cracks and cavities present in the concrete base, forming a neat and smooth surface. These mixtures dry out fairly quickly. You can walk on them after 3-4 hours, and after a day it is permissible to start laying decorative coating eg tiles.

If the irregularities concrete floor are more impressive and noticeable, then It is worth turning to a high-quality and reliable concrete screed. This alignment method is one of the cheapest and most popular. Mounting technology concrete screed, first of all, is based on the installation of special beacons. They are installed on the floor (the distance between the beacons should be 500-800 mm), leveling in one plane using a level.

After that, it is necessary to knead the solution of the required consistency and add special plasticizers to it. Then you can start laying out the resulting mixture on the concrete base of the floor. When the screed "grabs", all guides will have to be removed, and the remaining grooves should be filled with mortar. The surface of the concrete screed must be grouted, however You can start this work only after 4 weeks.

It will also need to be strengthened by processing with a high-quality primer.

Before proceeding with self-leveling the floor, you should familiarize yourself with some simple tips to avoid serious mistakes in the process:

Avoid drafts entering the room where you are leveling the subfloor. And if everything is quite simple with a bathroom or toilet, then in other rooms (living room, bedroom, corridor, kitchen and balcony) it is necessary to close all windows and cover the doors (as is the case with wallpapering the walls).
Never use ventilation devices.
Be sure to adhere to the drying time of the solution indicated on its packaging / box. They can only be broken if the composition is applied in a thin layer. Two-layer coatings should not be "disturbed" until they are completely hardened.
Before pouring the existing base, it is recommended to treat the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room with a special primer. It is necessary to provide improved adhesion.

Use only reliable and quality tools, as well as materials and mixtures. Otherwise, the floor may not turn out the way you planned it.
Don't look for too cheap available funds for leveling. Too low a price can hide a low quality product.
Do not forget that the old floor must be completely cleaned of the previous coating. Otherwise, the leveling layer may not lie perfectly, which will affect the decorative floor finish.
If noticeable seams and large gaps are visible on the base (for example, between boards), then they must be covered with putty or the same leveling mixture. For such work, it is worth kneading thicker and more viscous compounds.

In no case do not neglect the preparation of the base. This stage is one of the most important in this work, so experts recommend taking it as seriously as possible.
Always wait until the dust has settled completely while working. You can clean the room with a vacuum cleaner. Do not leave even the smallest debris on the base.
Leveling the floor in a living room is quite possible to do it yourself, but this process is not the easiest and fastest.

Starting to process the sexual base, you need to stock up on all necessary tools, materials and, of course, patience.