How to level a wooden floor: leveling an old wooden floor with your own hands. Is it possible to level individual sections of the screed with a self-leveling floor How to level the floor in the apartment

Updated: 12/25/2018

Replacing floor coverings is impossible without high-quality leveling of the rough base. This can be done in different ways: using a wet and dry screed, installing raised floors from plywood, pouring leveling compounds. In most cases, floor leveling can be done independently, because there is nothing complicated here.

Plank flooring can be a reliable base for any floor covering, as long as it does not have serious defects. In the presence of strong deflections, creaking when walking, rotten boards or logs, it makes no sense to repair the floor; but if the irregularities do not exceed 10 mm, the paint has peeled off a little or small gaps have appeared, it will not be difficult to fix the defects.

In the process of work you will need:

• a hammer;
• self-tapping screws;
• electric planer;
• drill;
• primer;
• putty on wood;
• putty knife;
• brush or roller;
• level;
• waterproof plywood.

Step 1. Eliminate bumps

All protruding areas on the floor must be removed with a planer; if the elevation is not more than 5 mm, you can use a grinding nozzle and a grinder. Nail heads in these areas should be sunk into the boards by a few millimeters. After processing the boards, the surface is checked with a building level to make sure there are no irregularities.

Step 2. Puttying

Recesses, small cracks and gaps between the boards are sealed with acrylic or PVA-based putty, having previously treated the problem areas with a primer. The putty mixture is well leveled with a spatula, and after drying, sanded with sandpaper.

Table. Putty mixes

Name and packaging	Base for application	Consumption kg/m2	Maximum layer thickness	Drying time	Price rub./pack.
Putty based on PVA, 4 kg	Plaster, concrete	0,450	3 mm	5 minutes	154
Putty stone flower, 25 kg	Concrete, wood, plaster, drywall	1,4	10 mm	24 hours	138
Putty ready Sheetrock, 3.5 l	Any	0,67	2 mm	5 o'clock	350

Step 3. Priming the floor

The puttied and sanded surface is cleaned of dust and a primer is applied with a roller or brush. A small brush is used in the corners and along the walls so that there are no dry areas left. Since wood is a rather porous material, it is recommended to prime the floor twice.

Step 4. Plywood flooring

Plywood sheets are laid out on the floor so that there is a gap of 15-20 mm around the perimeter of the room, and about 8 mm between the sheets themselves. These gaps are necessary to compensate for deformations that occur during temperature and humidity changes. The plywood is fastened with self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm, while each row is laid with seams offset by ½ sheet.

Instead of plywood, you can use gypsum-fiber sheets or chipboard with a thickness of 8 to 14 mm. It is not recommended to use fiberboard for these purposes: under the influence of loads, this material takes the form of a subfloor, revealing the slightest defects. After laying, the plywood is sanded, its horizontalness is checked and dust is removed. This completes the leveling process.

The concrete floor is leveled in several ways - wet and dry screed, dry screed on logs, grinding and pouring self-leveling mixtures. Floor grinding is applied on surfaces with minimal irregularities; this method is the fastest and cheapest, the coating can be laid immediately after the primer has dried. Filling with mixtures is suitable for floors with differences up to 5 mm; wet and dry screeds are designed for the most uneven concrete substrates.

Floor grinding

Step 1. The floor is cleaned of debris and the surface is treated with a grinder or grinder with a nozzle.

Step 2 The horizontalness of the base is checked, all detected cracks and delaminations are cleaned, dust-free, primed and sealed with a thick cement mortar. Instead of a solution, you can use polymer putty.

Step 3 When the putty dries, these areas are polished again.

Step 4 Carefully remove dust, prime the surface.

Manufacturer	Description	Consumption	Volume and price
PrimeGround	Deep penetration primer with antiseptic	0.08 -0.2 kg per 1 m2 depending on the absorbency and the treated surface	10 l, 600 rubles
CT 17, Ceresit	Deep penetration primer	0.1-0.2 l/m2 with a single application depending on from absorbent foundation abilities	10 l, 500 rubles
OSNOVIT UNKONT T-51	Soil universal	100-200 mg. per 1m2	10 l, 450 rubles
OSNOVIT DIPKONT T-53	deep penetration primer	50-100 mg per m2	10 l, 500 rubles
Knauf-Tiefengrund	Universal primer	0.07 - 0.1 kg/m2	10 l, 650 rub.

Pouring self-levelling compound

• primer;
• wide brush;
• doctor blade;
• roller with spikes;
• construction mixer;
• dry mix for floors;
• level;
• waterproofing material.

Step 1. Cracks in concrete are expanded along the length, exfoliated areas are cleaned, all defects are sealed with mortar or putty.

Step 2 The highest point of the floor is determined and, using a level gauge, mark the pour line on the walls.

Step 3 The base is dedusted and primed, the primer is applied in two layers.

Step 4 A waterproofing film is spread on the floor, leveled, the edges are led onto the walls, and adjacent strips are overlapped and secured with construction tape.

Step 5 In the proportions indicated on the package, the dry mixture is diluted with water and stirred with a construction mixer. The mixture begins to harden 15 minutes after cooking, so calculate the amount correctly.

Step 6 The mixture is poured onto the floor in the corner farthest from the doors, a wide spatula is taken and the polymer is leveled along the wall with a wide strip.

Step 7 As soon as the solution is evenly distributed and forms a layer of the required thickness, its surface is rolled with a spiked roller, removing air bubbles.

Each next section of the floor is poured in exactly the same way, but no later than ten minutes after the previous one is poured. The borders of adjacent strips must be leveled especially carefully so that thickenings do not form. A completely flooded floor is covered with a film and left to dry; all this time the room should be free of drafts, fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

Leveling with cement screed

What you need for work:

• water and building level;
• large capacity;
• trowel;
• rule;
• dry gypsum;
• guides;
• waterproofing film;
• reinforcing mesh;
• cement and sand;
• primer.

Step 1. On the walls, with the help of a water level, marks are placed to indicate the floor line.

Step 2 The surface is cleaned and treated with a primer.

Step 3 Lay a film for waterproofing, reinforcing mesh on top. Pieces of plastic are placed under the mesh in several places to raise it by 5-10 mm. There should be a distance of about 1-2 cm between the grid and the wall.

Step 4 Guides are laid out on the floor so that there is an indent of 20 cm from the side walls, at least 1.5 m between the beacons, and the beacons themselves lay in parallel rows.

Step 5 Gypsum mortar is kneaded and beacons are fixed to them. With the help of a level, the horizontalness of the guides is checked, if necessary, a solution is added, or vice versa, the rails are sunk into plaster. The upper edges of all guides must be in the same plane and coincide with the marking line along the perimeter of the room.

Step 6 Take 1 part of cement M400 or M500, 3 parts of sifted sand, mix and dilute with water to the density of sour cream. It should be stirred very intensively so that no lumps remain in the solution. The cement mixture is poured between two rows of guides, and then stretched with a rule, removing excess mortar from the surface of the beacons. If voids have formed, it is necessary to add more solution and again carry out the rule.

Table of cement consumption

The screed must be completed in one day, then the coating will be as monolithic and durable as possible. After a day, the guides should be removed from the screed, the grooves should be sealed with a fresh solution of the same consistency, the surface should be covered with polyethylene. It will take at least 28 days to dry, all this time the concrete must be regularly moistened, closed from direct rays, drafts, and any loads and vibrations must be excluded.

Dry screed

Necessary tools and materials:

• level;
• primer;
• roller;
• lighthouses;
• film for waterproofing;
• rule;
• damper tape;
• sheets of chipboard or GVL;
• expanded clay;
• self-tapping screws.

Step 1. The concrete surface is cleaned, cracks are sealed, two layers of primer are applied.

Step 2 Along the perimeter of the room on the walls mark the level of the finished floor.

Step 3 The base is covered with plastic wrap or roofing felt, leading the edges of the material onto the walls.

Step 4 Install guide rails and fix them with gypsum mortar. Instead of gypsum, cement can be used, but such a solution sets longer. The level controls the location of the beacons relative to the horizontal, adjusting their height by pressing into the solution. The distance between the rails is approximately 1.8 m, the indents from the side walls are at least 20 cm.

Step 5 A damper tape is glued along the marking line. The space between the beacons is covered with expanded clay or other loose filler, with the help of the rule it is leveled and slightly compacted.

Step 6 Sheet material is laid on top of expanded clay, starting from the doorway. Each new row is laid with the obligatory displacement of the seams by half the sheet. It is recommended to mount the rough coating in two layers, fastening them together with glue and self-tapping screws. The top sheets should be positioned so that the bottom seams are completely closed. Coincidence of the lower and upper seams is not allowed!

Step 7 The recesses from the heads of the self-tapping screws are covered with wood putty, the horizontality and evenness of the rough coating are checked, all the roughness is polished. Finally, the floor is cleaned of dust and primed.

Waterproofing material laid on the floor

Step 3 The bars, pre-treated with an antiseptic primer, are laid out on the floor in parallel rows at a distance of 60 cm. Holes for dowels are drilled at the base and logs are baited. Then, using a level, adjust the location of the beam horizontally, if necessary, placing wedges or removing excess with a planer. It is convenient to mount the logs on special adjustable support bolts with external threads, the use of which significantly speeds up the installation process.

Logs for prefabricated screed

Step 4 A damper tape is fixed along the marking line and the laying of the sheeting is started. Plywood, chipboard, GVL or cement-bonded particle boards are suitable for this. The material is attached to the lags with self-tapping screws; sheets are laid with offset joints in each row. The number of coating layers depends on the thickness of the sheets and the expected loads. If 2 layers are made, the plates are fastened together with self-tapping screws.

Joints between boards should be sealed.

Step 5 In conclusion, the roughness is polished, the joints are rubbed with a putty mixture, and the ground surface is also dusted.

The described methods do not require special skills and extensive construction experience. Here it is important to follow the technology and adhere to the recommended proportions in the manufacture of working mixtures. Properly executed screed will provide a perfectly flat and durable surface, ready for finishing.

Video - Leveling the floor with a mixture of vetonite

Video - Leveling the floor with a leveling mixture

If you are making major repairs, both in the room and in the entire apartment, then you certainly cannot do without the floor leveling procedure. Floor leveling is an integral part of a major overhaul, because it is unlikely that the floor in your apartment will be even, especially if the house was built a very long time ago. Also, without leveling the floor, laying a new floor covering is illogical. That is why we want to dwell in more detail on the issue of leveling the floor.

The content of the article:

Floor leveling methods

Floor leveling is the very first repair procedure, of course, after all the preparatory steps. Thus, it is necessary to level the floor before leveling the ceiling and walls. There are several ways to level the floor, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages, and we will describe them so that you can choose the leveling option that is most suitable for your room.

So, today there are three ways to level the floor:

• Leveling with self-leveling floor;


• Floor leveling.

Let's briefly describe all these options for leveling the floor, analyzing their "pros" and "cons", as well as telling which of the options to use in a given situation.

Floor leveling on beacons

This leveling option received such a name in view of the fact that for leveling on the floor, beacons are initially laid and fixed - metal slats, according to the level of which the screed is leveled. Leveling the floor with lighthouses is the most common leveling method, it is most often used to level the floor of large rooms: a hall, a bedroom and a kitchen. The advantage of this leveling method is a high-quality, durable and even surface, which can be achieved even with large uneven floor surfaces. The disadvantage is that the screed can dry from 10 to 30 days, everything will depend on the temperature and humidity in the room, as well as on the screed layer. If you want to make repairs as quickly as possible, then this method is not particularly suitable for you.

Leveling the floor with beacons is the best leveling method for laying laminate and linoleum, since it is for laying these floor coverings that a perfectly flat surface is needed.

Leveling the floor surface with a leveling mortar is the easiest and fastest way to level the floor. The essence of this leveling lies in the fact that with the help of a rare special cement-based mortar you fill the floor, thanks to the specific feature of such a mixture, it will evenly spread over the floor, which will eventually create a flat surface. Unlike the previous method, leveling with a self-leveling floor occurs faster in time: both in the process of leveling and in the drying time of the screed, since its layer is several times smaller than the screed layer when leveling the floor along the beacons.

It is worth noting that the layer of the self-leveling floor must be at least 3 millimeters. The maximum height of the self-leveling floor layer should not exceed 35 millimeters. Therefore, if the level of irregularities is very large, that is, the plane of the floor slab goes to one of the sides, and from the top level of the floor to the bottom is more than 35 mm, then this method is not suitable.

The undeniable advantage of leveling the floor with a self-flowing mixture is speed, since this does not take much time. This is a great way to level out minor unevenness in the floor surface, as well as for pouring underfloor heating. In addition, this method is the cheapest, which makes it, in fact, the most optimal. The disadvantage of the self-leveling floor is one - it cannot be used with large floor irregularities.

The last way to level the floor is to build it up. The essence of this method lies in the fact that wooden logs are mounted on the floor, with the help of which a flat plane is created, after which boards or plywood sheets are fixed on the logs.

This method of leveling the floor is best suited for the first floors of buildings, as well as for summer cottages and cottages. The advantage of this method is that when building up the floor, the empty space can be filled with heat-insulating material, which will make it possible to insulate the floor. It is also a great option if you need to carry out any communications along the floor, for example, autonomous heating pipes. A method that is more painstaking even compared to leveling with beacons, but it will allow you to raise the floor level to the required height.

Floor leveling when laying tiles

In addition to the above methods of leveling, one should also mention the leveling of the floor when laying tiles. This method, in fact, is not a full-fledged method, which is why we did not mention it above, but it is impossible not to mention it. It is used for uneven floor surfaces, but not planes.

The essence of leveling the floor when laying tiles is that with a slight slope or unevenness of the floor surface, it can be leveled when laying the tiles, adding more mortar to its base. To do this, you just need to find the lowest area of ​​the floor and the top one, then you need to calculate how high it will be necessary to raise the level of the tile in one or another area of ​​the floor in relation to the highest point.

Floor level measurement and preparation for leveling

In order to choose a floor leveling method and calculate the required amount of material, you need to measure the floor level. In order to make a measurement, you need to dismantle the old floor covering, otherwise there will be no sense from the measurements. When the floor is ready, we check it for irregularities.

It is worth noting that the floor can be uneven for two reasons: due to the unevenness of the floor slab or when it is incorrectly (curved) laid during the construction of the house. Most often, both types of irregularities occur. That is, in most houses the surface of the floor slab itself is uneven, and it is laid crookedly.

To measure the level of the floor, you will need a long level, with which you need to check the level of all sections of the floor. First, check for irregularities on the plate itself, then its plane. Mark the highest point of the floor level and the lowest.

If the slope of the slab or its surface has minor irregularities, the maximum amplitude of the differences or the slope of which does not exceed 35 mm, then we recommend leveling the floor using a self-leveling floor. If the irregularities are significant or the slab strongly “leaves” to one of the sides, then the only way that will help solve the problem is alignment with the beacons. When you have determined to what height the floor level will be raised, check if this is possible, since in the end the balcony or door to the room may not open, or it will be necessary to raise the radiator of the battery. Therefore, before performing any actions to level the floor, think over and decide all the nuances.

In some cases, if the floor plane itself is even, and there are, for example, irregularities in the joints of the floor slabs due to the fact that the seam is not sealed up neatly, then the irregularities can be knocked down with a perforator and then this part can be leveled with cement.

As a mixture for leveling the floor, you can use both ordinary cement, mixing it in the right proportions with sand, and special mixtures that are specifically designed for leveling floors.

How to level a concrete floor

How to level the floor according to the beacons

Before leveling the floor, it must be carefully swept, and then treated with a primer layer. In order to level the floor along the beacons, we need metal perforated corners. Beacons are laid along the room. The first beacon is laid at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, the next - at a distance of 100 cm from each other. The last beacon should also be laid at a distance of 30cm from the wall. To fix the beacons, we need a cement or gypsum mortar.

So, lay the beacons along the room, if necessary, adjust them in size. Then, hardly with “slap” movements, we apply the solution in parts, with a step of 20-25 cm. Beacons are placed on the solution and leveled. As soon as the beacons have seized a little, the voids between the floor and the beacons are also filled with mortar. When the beacons are aligned, let them fix firmly and then proceed to level the floor.

To level the concrete floor, you need to prepare a cement-based mortar, dilute the mixture to the so-called sour cream density, keep in mind that the mixture should not be too rare, as it will be difficult to level, and it will also dry even longer. It is also unnecessary to make an overly thick mixture, since it will be very difficult for you to smooth the surface of the screed - it will be loose.

We start leveling the floor from the far corner, moving towards the exit. We fill from the first and second rows at the same time, since the first row is only 30 cm, and at the end we do the same with the last and penultimate sectors. The finished part of the mixture is distributed over the sector, and evenly distributed with a trowel in order to prevent the formation of voids inside the screed. After that, by the rule, placing it with an edge, leading along the beacons, we align the part of the sector filled with mortar. First, we move the rule towards ourselves, from side to side, and when you have achieved a flat surface, then for the last time we draw the rule along the beacons exactly. In the same way, make further leveling of the concrete floor. It is important to note that each subsequent pour should be done very carefully, because due to the different consistency of the cement mortar, bumps may form in the places of influxes, this must be monitored.

When the floor is leveled, let the screed dry, and we can proceed with further repair work. To make the floor dry faster in winter, you can turn on the heater. In general, this procedure is best done in the summer, the screed will dry completely in a couple of days.

Leveling with a self-leveling floor

Leveling the floor with a self-leveling mixture begins with cleaning its surface. When the concrete base is cleaned, you need to carefully prime the floor surface, using a special primer used for self-leveling floors.

Then we dilute the self-leveling mixture in such proportions as indicated on the package. Although the consistency of the mixture allows it to spread on the floor on its own, it must be rolled with a spiked roller to remove possible air bubbles inside the mixture. The height of the needles of this roller must be greater than the height of the layer of leveling compound. The filled space must be carefully rolled with a roller in different directions. After that, let the floor dry, as a rule, this takes several hours.

Floor leveling

If you want to insulate the floor, or raise its level, then the best option is to build up the floor using wooden logs, it is also called floor leveling with plywood. The advantage of this method is obvious, since this is the only easy way to raise the level of the floor, in which you can insulate its base, as well as conduct communications inside it.

In order to level the floor using this method, you must first inspect its surface. If there are any gaps or holes, for example in the corners, then they must be repaired. Then you need to prime the floor surface. After the primer dries, proceed to laying the vapor barrier film, which must be laid with an allowance to the wall with a height equal to the height of the extended floor. Between themselves, the sheets of the film must be glued with adhesive tape. After that, proceed to laying the lag.

To lay the log, you need to know the level of floor deflection, as well as determine to what height the floor will be raised. Logs can be attached both to anchors and to special metal plates - you choose the method of attachment. To fix the level of the lag and so that they do not bend, it is necessary to place wooden or plastic wedges under them, to which the lags are fixed with self-tapping screws. Lay the log along the room, at a distance of 5 cm from the wall, in increments of 50 cm. When the logs are laid, they must be fixed to the floor.

The next stage of work is the laying of insulation in sectors between the lags. Use glass wool sheets as insulation. Sheets of glass wool must be cut to the size of the sectors, leaving a few extra centimeters of allowance so that they fit snugly into the sector. After that, either wooden boards or plywood are laid on top, fixing them on self-tapping screws.

In the first video, you can visually get acquainted with the procedure for leveling the floor using leveling by beacons.

If you want to level the floor with a self-leveling compound, then this method is disclosed in this video.

And finally, the third way to level the floor, with the help of its extension. This method is somewhat different from that proposed by us and is more suitable for leveling the balcony floor, but you can borrow some of the main points for yourself.

Is it possible to use self-leveling floor Miners Thin to level individual
sections of the floor (pits 5 mm deep), without flooding the entire surface of the floor, so as not to raise
floor level?

Can. But is it necessary?

The self-levelling compound will, of course, fill the pits. However, it should be taken into account that the self-level, as well as any other liquid, colloid or suspension, is affected by the force of surface tension.

The force of surface tension does not allow a liquid or suspension to spread flush with the surface on which it is located.

And although the composition includes modifying additives that increase fluidity, the border between intact and filled with self-leveling floor areas will not be smooth. The surface of the filled "puddle" will spread horizontally, but after hardening, its edges will be slightly raised above the general level.

The joint between the self-leveling floor and the unfilled screed will not be even

You can reduce this effect by pre-wetting the edges of the proposed filling and leveling the problem areas with a spatula at the moment when the composition is just beginning to set.

When leveling individual sections of the screed with a leveling compound, its edges should be leveled with the rule

But the difference will still be noticeable. Perhaps you will be satisfied with this result. For example, if the floor is being prepared for facing with tiles larger than 10x10 cm, a difference of 1-2 mm is not critical. But if we are talking about preparation for a self-leveling epoxy coating, mosaic tiles, thin linoleum - this is unacceptable. Also, differences will create problems when laying floating floors if the substrate is thinner than 3 mm.

When preparing the surface for floating floors (laminate, parquet), the horizontalness of the surface is not of great importance.

Irregularities can be sanded, manually or with a grinder. This is not very difficult, but it will take time, in the process of work fine dust will scatter around the room, you will have to spend money on abrasive materials.

Small irregularities are easy to remove with a "grinder" with an abrasive wheel

By leveling only certain areas in the room with a self-leveling mixture, you may not get the desired result. If the floor plane is strictly horizontal, and we are really talking only about a couple of “pits”, your plan will work and, by grinding the edges of the fills, you will get a flat floor, albeit with additional time and effort.

If the screed is horizontal, and only individual holes need to be eliminated, it makes sense to fill the floor with fragments, it will only be necessary to grind the joints

If there is no common horizon, you risk getting a surface consisting of “patches”, the middle of which is horizontal, the edges are raised, but there is still no general level. To remedy the situation, you will have to grind the entire surface with a grinder or fill it again with a level, but already the entire area.

Grinding the entire surface of the floor with an industrial grinder is troublesome, dusty and expensive

We recommend that before deciding to level the screed in fragments, carefully check the level of the floor over the entire area. If there is no common horizon, it makes sense to fill it with a self-leveling compound entirely, this will provide you with a perfect result. Fortunately, the self-leveling floor "Prospectors Thin" normally spreads even with a millimeter layer (recommended - 1-20 mm). Relative to the highest point, the level of the floor will practically not rise. By calculating the average layer thickness, you can determine the dry mix consumption using the online calculator: http://poli-nalivniye.starateli.ru/catalog/228-228

You will get a guaranteed even and horizontal surface if you fill the entire floor area with a self-leveler. Of course, subject to strict adherence to the manufacturer's recommendations

If you still don’t want to fill the entire area (for example, you need a flat plane, not a level), and the floor has a slope, we recommend filling the holes not with a level, but with tile adhesive. Just use not a cheap mixture, but a composition for complex bases, it is stronger and better adheres to the surface of the screed. Glue "Prospectors Lux" is quite suitable. You can level the plastic mixture with the rule.

A few words about the technology of leveling the screed with a self-leveling floor. It is very important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Violation of the proportion of mixing with water, non-compliance with the time of work with the mixture will inevitably lead to marriage. The technology of production of works should be observed in the most strict manner. The surface of the screed must be durable, thoroughly cleaned beforehand, dust-free, impregnated with a primer intended for concrete.

Deep-penetrating primer for mineral surfaces will strengthen the concrete surface, improve the adhesion of self-leveling or tile adhesive to it

Concrete pavement is the modern basis of the floor in the current housing construction. It is strong, stable and reliable. In the apartment, laminate, carpet, ceramic tiles and much more are laid on it.

Level the floor, walls or other surfaces - these works do not aim to create an aesthetic appearance of housing, but they play a huge role in creating aesthetics. In addition, when the surface is uneven, premature wear of the coating may occur. Tiles or linoleum can break or wear off, gaps, cracks can form on the floor. For the same reasons, you should not lay a coating on a screed that is poorly made.

Aligning the concrete base for the future coating is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. The disadvantage of a concrete floor is that over time, despite the strength of the stone, flaws (potholes, chips) may appear on the surface. Floor leveling can be done without a specialized education, the main thing is to know all the features of the process.

A change in the structure of such a floor can occur for the following reasons:

• local level rise due to house settlement
• smooth wave changes in the level of the floor due to the destruction of concrete
• ripples - a consequence of the influence of excessive moisture

If you are looking for a specialist who can level the surface for laying laminate, ceramic tiles or other flooring material, contact the service.

Alignment methods

What is required to clean the floor? You can get a flat and smooth base for laying laminate flooring using either screed or self-leveling compounds.

To level a concrete floor (or other) you will need:

• construction "beacons" on which the surface will be leveled
• solution container
• level
• roller, drill

For any floor, leveling is a key step in preparing for repairs, the foundation.

Among the several ways to do this, and lead to an ideal state, different means can be used - it all depends on the conditions at hand.

Can be used:

• dry screed
• semi-dry
• wet

Thus, craftsmen use either a mixture with water or a dry composition.

It is very important to mix the solution in the right proportions. If you make even a slight mistake, then after hardening the floor may crack. Gypsum or metal products can be used as building "beacons". Quite often, special tension threads are used. Install them at a distance of 1 to 3 meters.

We level the floor in the apartment with a cement-sand screed

This option is ideal for those cases where the difference in the level of the base exceeds five millimeters. Although the technology of such a screed is laborious, nevertheless, it is this method that has an excellent result. The surface will be even, so there will be no problems with laying the laminate.

Stages of a wet screed:

• oily stains are removed and a layer of waterproofing is laid
• "beacons" are installed using metal profiles
• the solution is mixed and poured between the profiles
• after a day the surface is wetted
• on the third day, the profiles are taken out and the voids from them are filled
• the screed is moistened and covered
• the surface is polished

So that the solution does not dry out quickly, it should be moistened for several days. Moisture will not allow the solution to crack.

The use of a cement-sand screed is one of the most popular methods of working with a floor in a room. But this method is best applied to durable floors, the structures of which are able to withstand heavy loads. It is very important in preparing the basis for the future coating with a cement-sand screed to mark its level. Its masters indicate with the help of a laser level - you need to find the point to which you will need to raise the floor. Do not forget about the minimum height, which is 3 centimeters. The laser level will set the necessary point, which must be marked with a simple pencil on the walls of the apartment. The laser allows you to make accurate marks on the walls without using a chalk line, which takes less time and greatly simplifies the process.

Dry screed: leveling methods using GVL

How to level the floor for tiles or laminate using a dry screed? During this procedure, gypsum-fiber sheets are used, which are laid on expanded clay.

Step by step workflow:

• put a plastic film on the floor
• granular mixture is poured on top of the film
• sheet material is installed

The polyethylene coating will perform waterproofing functions, and the leveling mixture will perform thermal insulation. This method of screed is great for installing laminate in an apartment or for reinforced concrete flooring.

Advantages of dry screed:

• provides a high level of thermal insulation in the apartment
• no solution needed
• the screed is fast and facilitates the laying of the necessary communications

Dry screed

Due to the fact that such a screed is simple, and the work on the implementation is not burdensome, you can do it yourself.

There are such advantages of a dry floor screed in comparison, for example, with concrete or cement:

• the first advantage is that it can be done independently, but for cement it will be necessary to involve specialists - this is a very time-consuming and complex process. Firstly, such a screed cannot be done in several stages - after all, the cement hardens. You need to immediately prepare the floor, at least in one room, which cannot be done without some experience
• a dry screed will allow you to use the room almost immediately after its installation. When creating a concrete screed, even if it is laid perfectly, you have to wait a while - until it dries completely. Only after the material has completely hardened can the repair be continued.
• dry screed gives the floor extra warmth. Concrete is cold, but expanded clay floors are much warmer. With a dry screed, you will not need to worry about additional heating
• dry screed isolates loud sound. Soundproofing occurs due to the special properties of the backfill and the edge tape, which is laid between the screed and the wall over the entire area of ​​the room

How to level the floor with a self-levelling compound

If the level difference in the apartment does not reach 3 millimeters, self-leveling mixtures can be used. The main purpose of this method is to prepare the floor for laying laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles or carpet. The solution spreads easily and forms a perfectly smooth surface.

Features of adjusting the concrete base with a self-leveling mixture:

• a steel spatula is required to apply the solution
• to fill a room with a large area, you should immediately prepare the required amount of the mixture, because the solution dries quickly
• the coating will dry in half an hour, but any subsequent work can be done only after 3 days
• the temperature in the room should not fall below 5-6 degrees
• fluidity of the mixture from 20 to 60 minutes
• it is not recommended to leave it without subsequent coating

If the cracks in the floor exceed the specified limit, they should be filled with a special solution in advance. The low thickness of the coating makes this method ideal for apartments with low ceilings. Even after laying the laminate, most of the free space is retained.

Seamless floors most often just serve as the basis for the subsequent coating - that is why it is very important to carefully and professionally approach the creation of the base. First of all, make it even.

In order to visualize how such work is done, you can watch the videos

The wooden floor, despite the emergence of many other modern options, remains in the top of popularity. It is widely used not only in old houses, but also in new buildings, as it is warm and durable. However, over time, under the influence of many factors, it may begin to sag on one or more sides. And as a result of this, there are serious level differences.

On such a coating, the furniture is crooked, and in the cabinets, due to distortions that have arisen, the doors do not close. Floorboard creaks are inevitable. In addition, gaps form between the boards, which negatively affects both the appearance of the floor and its insulating qualities. Therefore, sooner or later, all owners have a question about how a wooden floor, while making it more stable, warmer, more comfortable for walking and more beautiful in appearance.

The main methods of leveling a wooden floor

Dismantling and reassembly of the boardwalk is a complex, lengthy, time-consuming and dirty process, which can be difficult to decide on. However, it is often impossible to do without it - if the floor boards are rotten, sag, they show signs of mold or fungus damage. In this case, there is nowhere to go - a complete replacement of the wooden flooring is required. If the boards are strong, well knocked together, but there is a serious difference in the horizontal plane or in certain areas of the floor, then you can do without opening the boardwalk. Under favorable circumstances, superficial leveling measures are dispensed with.

Depending on what kind of irregularities appeared on the wooden floor during the period of its operation, the method of their removal is chosen.

There are several methods applicable for leveling the boardwalk:

• Cyclevka.
• Local alignment of a specific area.
• Self leveling compound.
• Lag alignment.
• Lining alignment.

To determine which method is best suited for a particular case, you must first measure the differences in the floor surface using a laser or conventional building level at least 2000 mm long. The permissible value of irregularities that can be put up with (unless, of course, squeaks appear) should not exceed 2 mm per linear meter of the base.

But what if the floor is even, but began to creak?

Definitely not all right with him. It is necessary to conduct an audit, to identify the cause of the appearance of unpleasant sounds. Well, then - by applying certain methods, which are described in detail in a special article on our portal.

How to do alignment with your own hands?

Local leveling of the floor surface

It happens that the irregularities are local in nature, that is, they are located only in certain areas of the floor. Alignment of the boards protruding above the main plane can be done using a planer or hand grinder. Of course, in these areas, you should inspect the fastener caps - nails or self-tapping screws. They should not interfere with alignment, that is, if necessary, either deepen them into the thickness of the board, or even temporarily unscrew them.

If, on the contrary, concave small areas have formed on the floor, then they are raised to the general level of the surface. This process can be done using oil or acrylic wood putty, or a self-made composition of small sawdust and PVA glue.

The repair compound is applied to the cavity and spread over the surface with a spatula. The edges of the recess, located flush with the main plane of the floor, will serve as beacons with this alignment. After the putty mass has dried, it is cleaned with a grinder.

The methods discussed above are good only in cases where the plank flooring is being prepared for painting or under its sheathing with plywood sheets. If the floors are being prepared for varnishing while maintaining the natural color and texture of the wood, then you will have to apply scraping of the entire surface.

Scraping a wooden floor

The scraping method is used in cases where it is necessary to free the floors from the old coating or the top darkened or damaged layer of wood. In addition, if the deformation of the surface and its height differences are no more than 10 mm, then the floors can also be leveled using a scraping machine. This method is quite noisy, but fast, as it allows you to update the boardwalk in a short time, preparing it for further finishing.

It is not difficult to carry out this process on your own, but the equipment is expensive, and hardly anyone will purchase it for a one-time task. Therefore, if a decision is made to level and clean the floor with your own hands, it is best to rent the device for a certain period.

When choosing this processing method, the thickness of the floorboard should be taken into account. And also the fact that after leveling, the height from the surface to the connecting lock of the tongue-and-groove board should be at least 4 ÷ 5 mm. That is, you will have to act very carefully and carefully.

For scraping, in addition to the scraping machine, it is necessary to prepare the following auxiliary materials and devices:

• A set of abrasive nozzles with grain of different fractions - circles and tapes. Don't buy too many consumables. The best option would be to consult with specialists when renting a car, explaining the characteristics of the boardwalk. In addition, you can purchase several nozzles with different numbers and test them in practice empirically.

• Disposable sawdust bags.
• Personal protective equipment - gloves, respirator and goggles.

Before starting work, it is necessary to revise the surface of the boardwalk. It must be dry and clean. The gap between the floorboards should be no more than 5 mm. In addition, metal elements - nail heads or self-tapping screws - should not come to the surface. They should be deepened into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2 mm below the thickness of the layer intended for removal.

The cycler must be prepared for work by installing nozzles with large grains on it and adjusting the clamping force of the device using a special screw.

The first stage of cleaning is carried out along the fibers. It is required to move slowly, without sharp jerks, but also without long downtime in one place. The car must run smoothly.

Having cleared one strip of coverage, the next one should be started by shifting the apparatus by ⅔, that is, by ⅓ capturing the previous one, just processed. As the abrasive layer of the nozzle wears out, it must be replaced with a new one.

Having processed the entire surface of the floor with a nozzle with a coarse grain, you can proceed to grinding the boardwalk by installing an abrasive tape with a fraction of at least P240. This nozzle will help to make the floors perfectly smooth.

Further, the wood is treated with an antiseptic primer or tinted stain. After that, the surface is puttied, cleaned and varnished, waxed, oiled or painted in the chosen color.

If the surface differences are more significant, then to level it, you will have to resort to more time-consuming methods.

Leveling the boardwalk with a dry screed

Necessary materials

This method of leveling the surface is suitable for both plank flooring and for. When choosing this method of bringing the floor in order, it is necessary to take into account the height of the ceiling of the room and the magnitude of the surface differences.

To equip a dry screed, you will need the following materials:

• Dry expanded clay, perlite or silicate-slag mixture of fine fraction, specially designed for dry screed. An excellent version of this material would be the composition of the company "Knauf". Good reviews also deserve the material of the Belarusian production "Compevit".

The standard packing of backfill is bags with a capacity of 40 liters. The calculation of the required amount is carried out from the floor area and from the thickness of the proposed leveling backfill. The thickness cannot be less than 20 (or better - 30) mm. It is undesirable to make it more than 60, maximum - 80 mm. If there is a significant level skew from the horizontal on the base floor, this is also taken into account.

• The covering sheet material is the finished floor elements (EP) made of gypsum fiber boards. Such EPs are equipped with specially designed locking lamellas, which speed up installation and make the coating neat. In addition to this material, waterproof plywood or chipboard can be used to cover the backfill. However, the best option would still be gypsum fiber boards, which have optimal characteristics for flooring:

— Thickness 20 mm. (Two layers of 10 mm each. The layers are placed and connected with an offset, which is precisely what forms the interlock with a width of 50 mm).

— Standard linear dimensions of EP - 600×1200.

Other floor elements are also on sale, in particular, with a size of 500 × 1500 × 20 mm, that is, with an aspect ratio of 1:3.

Floor elements are purchased depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. A 15% margin is made, since, firstly, there will be waste when cutting. And secondly, on those elements that will be laid from the walls, the lock lamella is cut off in a mandatory manner from the side adjacent to the wall.

• Damper tape for installation along the wall around the perimeter of the entire room. Acquired along the length of the perimeter of the room with a small margin.
• Waterproofing material for flooring on the surface of the base for backfilling. For wooden floors, glassine, thick paper impregnated with bitumen or roofing material is best suited. You can also use a plastic film with a thickness of at least 200 microns. It is purchased by floor area with a margin of 15%.
• Metal profile for placing temporary beacons.
• Adhesive for mutual fixation of plates along the lines of interlocking joints. Good quality PVA glue is fine.
• Self-tapping screws. Optimal - special self-tapping screws for GVL (GVVL), which are distinguished by a two-start thread and have a self-tapping head.