Floor covering needed mandatory protection from the harmful effects of moisture. This task is of particular importance in the case of foundation on the ground, which are often equipped in a warm climate. Here, both the waterproofing of the earthen floor and the concrete floor are equally important, since in the first version it cuts off the capillary penetration of moisture from the soil, and in the second it prevents its absorption by the concrete screed.

Why is it necessary to waterproof the floor on the ground: what is the danger of penetrating moisture

At some depth of the soil there is a water-saturated layer. Since any soil is water-permeable to some extent, it is natural that, as it becomes more porous, it absorbs moisture. The capillary rise is the greater, the more dense the soil is, and the pores in it are thinner.

Moisture, even in the case of dense and oily clay, very slowly, but rises above the aquifer by at least 12 m.

If moisture meets some obstacle in the lifting zone, say, a concrete floor, then it is gradually saturated with liquid droplets and water vapor. Salts from the soil dissolved in water slowly corrode the concrete and destroy the structure of the wood, thereby reducing the operational life of the floors.

Moreover, the moisture that has entered the pores of concrete expands by about 9% when it freezes and breaks it. The resulting microcracks open the way for active penetration of moisture. In addition, alternating cycles of "freeze-thaw" slowly turn the tree into dust, and the concrete completely cracks.

This problem is not new at all, and there are many ways to solve it, but in any case, this requires competent floor waterproofing, which primarily requires the presence of a “cushion” under the building.

Layered "pillow" under the dirt floor

The layering of the base allows you to avoid the formation of pits and failures - undesirable consequences that are fraught with natural subsidence of the soil. The structure of such a structure is determined by the characteristics of the soil under the house under construction.

The sequence of layers in the "pie"

"Bottom up" materials are arranged in the following sequence.

Dense soil. At this stage, the natural earth base is strongly compacted. In these works, special tools are used, for example, a level.

Bedding. It is performed in two layers, each about 10 cm. Crushed stone is used as a material, preferably a coarse fraction and sand - without any restrictions. Everything should be compacted as much as possible. The backfill does not allow water to penetrate capillary into the higher layers and provide for further work leveling base. If the distance from the GWL (level ground water) to the base of more than two meters, then crushed stone can be replaced with expanded clay.

But to replace it with a broken brick or similar material unacceptable.

Having laid all three layers, proceed to the next steps. What they will be depends on the type of future floor, whether it will be wooden or concrete.

Floor in basement

Proper waterproofing of the basement floor involves a number of activities, which include work with the foundation and the installation of a drainage system around the house. First of all, they study the features of the soil for the structure, that is, the relief and its saturation with groundwater.

Device at low groundwater level

Most often, a carefully compacted sand and gravel cushion of 10-15 cm is enough to keep penetration groundwater Into the basement. The sub-base is cleaned and leveled. Clay can also be laid and compacted. Next, a reinforced concrete screed is poured, which is kept for about two weeks. The screed is covered with mastic and rolled waterproofing is laid with an overlap on the walls. Insulation sheets are laid with an overlap of 10 s and welded with a gas burner.

Device at high groundwater level

When raising water from the ground higher than the floor level in the basement, their pressure increases and approaches to implementation finishing works in the basement, respectively, change.

GWL up to 20 cm from the basement floor. Coating waterproofing is applied to the walls of the basement and a “castle” of clay is arranged. Oily crumpled clay is also used to prepare the concrete base.

Today, another technology is used for the “lock” device - bentonite. The bentonite clay underlying it has high colloidal properties, which makes it possible to limit the height of the protective layer to 1-2 cm. Concrete is laid between the geotextile or cardboard.

GWL at a height of 20–50 cm from the floor. The floor surface in the basement is leveled with a cement screed, and then, after preparing the concrete, roll material is laid in two layers. From below, the structure is under high hydrostatic pressure. To balance it, concrete must be laid on top of the waterproofing.

UGV at a height of more than 50 cm. In this case, three layers of rolled materials or waterproofing are used and a reinforced concrete slab is arranged. It must be embedded in the basement wall, which perceives the hydrostatic pressure created by groundwater, as it works in bending. In addition, along the walls of the basement, the places of their junction with the base are insulated with bitumen-polymer tapes.

To increase the hydrophobicity of cement-sand bases, it is also recommended to use penetrating materials. They include additives from chemically active substances. Through capillary moisture through open pores, they enter the thickness of the substrate. When they interact with the components of concrete, filamentous crystals are formed, narrowing, they reduce water permeability.

Use of liquid rubber

Liquid rubber allows you to get a seamless surface that is completely insulating from water. Considering the insufficient strength of rubber to mechanical damage, geotextiles are laid on top of it for protection and poured with a reinforced concrete screed. In this case, it performs two functions: it protects against damage and pressurizes when groundwater rises.

Ground waterproofing concrete floor

When constructing a concrete floor, the same three base layers of the “pie” are needed. However, it requires a serious approach. This is due to the contradiction between the structure of soil and concrete: the first is mobile, and the second is a monolith. It is necessary to take into account and combine both of these factors, usually two possible methods are used.

The sequence in the first variant is as follows:

Behind the sandy part another of fine gravel is laid.
As a rough screed, gravel is not poured with a thick layer of a solution of cement and sand.
The maximum height difference for every 2 m is 3 mm.
Next, roll material is laid - two layers. More often, roofing felt or roofing material is used for this. The joints are insulated with a gas burner.

Waterproofing materials must be free of powder.

After laying the thermal insulation, a finishing screed is performed.

In the second variant, the first hydrobarrier is created using a polyethylene film laid on top of the sandy one. All joints must be insulated with adhesive tape or other adhesive-based impervious material.

Even minimal damage is enough for the film to cease to serve as an insulator.

Next, a rough screed is laid from a standard cement-sand composition. Its thickness is limited to 50-70 mm. Waterproofing is laid on the subfloor. Any rolled material is suitable for it - whether it be a membrane or roofing material. Then in order - thermal insulation and finishing screed. With a surface location of groundwater, it makes sense to additionally arrange waterproofing on the ground.

Any floor covering must be reliably protected from moisture.

In cases where the floor is laid on the ground, this task is most relevant. Floors of this design are often built in warm regions. In places with dry soil, there are practically no problems with waterproofing.

Otherwise, a base made of several layers is required. The installation of a waterproofing layer is a radical way to deal with penetrating moisture. Let's consider the factors dictating the need for a reliable waterproofing of the base floor on the ground: From a water-saturated layer located at a certain depth, water rises through capillaries. Moreover, the denser the soil, the thinner the capillaries and the more active the capillary rise. Interesting! Even if the soil consists of dense and oily clay, the water in it is able to rise above the water-saturated layer by about 12 m. If there is a concrete floor in the way of rising water, then the floor of concrete or wood will be saturated with vapor and drops of water. Salts dissolved in groundwater have a detrimental effect on these building materials. Water penetrating into the pores of concrete structures, when sub-zero temperatures freezes.

At the same time, it expands by 9% and destroys the material. The cyclical freezing and thawing of water in the pores of concrete and wood causes their gradual complete destruction. Rules for the preparation of a multi-layer base During the construction process, a multi-layer “cushion” is created under the house. It prevents the possibility of holes and dips due to natural subsidence of the soil and provides primary protection of the floor from moisture.

Work begins with markup. Using an optical or laser level, set the zero mark. Soil compaction is carried out using tamping devices. Crushed stone-sand layer.

For its device, crushed stone of a large fraction and not too fine sand are used. This backfill interrupts the capillary rise of the water and provides a foundation for subsequent work. It is recommended to fill the layers in turn in the following order: crushed stone - 300 mm, sand - 300 mm, crushed stone - 150 mm, sand - 150 mm.

Pegs, which are installed in the corners of the perimeter, help control the height of the stacked layers. The horizontality of the backfill is regulated using the building level. If the groundwater is below 2 m, then crushed stone can be replaced with expanded clay. It is forbidden to use broken bricks for these purposes. The technology for carrying out further work depends on the type of floor.

It is created using a polyethylene film laid on the top sand layer. Joints are insulated with tape. The film should not have any damage. A rough cement-sand screed is laid on top of the film, the thickness of which is in the range of 50-70 mm. insulating layer using gluing roll materials or polymer-based membranes.

The strips of one layer are rolled out in the same direction with an overlap glued with adhesive tape. There should be two layers in total. There should be no dressing between the layers.

Waterproofing material must be brought to the walls by 150-200 mm. After complete installation excess parts of the floor structure are cut off with a sharp knife. The gaps at the exit points of the pipes are sealed with non-hardening sealants. A heater is laid on top of the waterproofing. AT this case mineral wool, hydro-extruded polystyrene foam or expanded clay are used. One of the options for insulation is hydro-extruded polystyrene foam Device for finishing cement-sand screed. There is another way to install a concrete floor on the ground: In this technology, the top layer is crushed stone, which is poured with cement-sand mortar. bitumen and a rolled waterproofing waterproofing is laid on it. Two layers of rolled waterproofing material are laid on top of it.

When using roofing material, the joints are heated with a gas burner. After installing the heat-insulating layer, a finishing screed is performed. Features of waterproofing a wooden floor on the ground The height of the ventilated subfloor should be 150-200 mm. If its height is less than 150 mm, ventilation worsens, if more, heat losses increase. Most effective option is laying logs on brick bedside tables. Wooden floor installation scheme: A substrate is created on the ground.

For loose soil, crushed stone impregnated with bitumen is used for this purpose. Crushed stone is poured with a layer of 50 mm and compacted tightly into the ground. On the basis obtained, the locations of the brick supports are marked, they are poured with a cement-sand screed. After it dries, they begin laying bedside tables. For laying supports under a wooden floor, you can not use fake diamond or silicate brick. Brick bedside tables serve as a support for the log.

Two layers of roofing material are laid between the brickwork and the tree. The bars are usually laid across the room, and they are connected along the perimeter with crossbars. The subfloor is wrapped with a hydro-vapor barrier membrane in such a way that equal spaces form between the lags, in which insulation is laid - rolled, polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay. A waterproofing material is spread over the insulation. The boardwalk is laid on the logs in such a way that the boards are as close to each other as possible. Modern technological developments offer many ways to build a subfloor on the ground and carry out waterproofing measures. If you want to continue this topic - write to our website.

The floor covering needs mandatory protection from the harmful effects of moisture. This task is of particular importance in the case of foundation on the ground, which are often equipped in a warm climate. Here, both the waterproofing of the earthen floor and the concrete floor are equally important, since in the first version it cuts off the capillary penetration of moisture from the soil, and in the second it prevents its absorption by the concrete screed.

Why is it necessary to waterproof the floor on the ground: what is the danger of penetrating moisture

Moisture, even in the case of dense and oily clay, very slowly, but rises above the aquifer by at least 12 m.

The sequence of layers in the "pie"

"Bottom up" materials are arranged in the following sequence.

Dense soil. At this stage, the natural earth base is strongly compacted. In these works, special tools are used, for example, a level.

Bedding. It is performed in two layers, each about 10 cm. Crushed stone is used as a material, preferably a coarse fraction and sand - without any restrictions.

Everything should be compacted as much as possible. The backfill prevents water from penetrating into the higher layers by capillary action and provides a leveling base for further work. If the distance from the GWL (groundwater level) to the base is more than two meters, then crushed stone can be replaced with expanded clay.

But replacing it with broken bricks or similar material is unacceptable.

Having laid all three layers, proceed to the next steps. What they will be depends on the type of future floor, whether it will be wooden or concrete.

Floor in basement

Most often, a carefully compacted sand and gravel cushion of 10-15 cm is enough to keep groundwater from entering the basement. The sub-base is cleaned and leveled. Clay can also be laid and compacted.

Next, a reinforced concrete screed is poured, which is kept for about two weeks. The screed is covered with mastic and rolled waterproofing is laid with an overlap on the walls. Insulation sheets are laid with an overlap of 10 s and welded with a gas burner.

Device at high groundwater level

When water rises from the ground higher than the floor level in the basement, their pressure increases and approaches to finishing work in the basement change accordingly.

GWL up to 20 cm from the basement floor. Coating waterproofing is applied to the basement walls and a “castle” of clay is arranged. Oily crumpled clay is also used to prepare the concrete base.

GWL at a height of 20–50 cm from the floor.

The floor surface in the basement is leveled with a cement screed, and then, after preparing the concrete, roll material is laid in two layers. From below, the structure is under high hydrostatic pressure. To balance it, concrete must be laid on top of the waterproofing.

To increase the hydrophobicity of cement-sand bases, it is also recommended to use penetrating materials.

They include additives from chemically active substances. Through capillary moisture through open pores, they enter the thickness of the substrate. When they interact with the components of concrete, filamentous crystals are formed, narrowing, they reduce water permeability.

Use of liquid rubber

Liquid rubber allows you to get a seamless surface that is completely insulating from water. Given the insufficient strength of rubber to mechanical damage, geotextiles are laid on top of it for protection and poured with a reinforced concrete screed. In this case, it performs two functions: it protects against damage and pressurizes when groundwater rises.

Ground waterproofing concrete floor

When constructing a concrete floor, the same three base layers of the “pie” are needed.

However, it requires a serious approach. This is due to the contradiction between the structure of soil and concrete: the first is mobile, and the second is a monolith. It is necessary to take into account and combine both of these factors, usually two possible methods are used.

The sequence in the first variant is as follows:

Behind the sandy part, another of fine gravel is laid. As a rough screed, the gravel is poured with a thin layer of cement and sand solution. The maximum height difference for every 2 m is 3 mm. Next, roll material is laid - two layers. More often, roofing felt or roofing material is used for this. The joints are insulated with a gas burner.

Waterproofing materials must be free of powder.

After laying the thermal insulation, a finishing screed is performed.

Even minimal damage is enough for the film to cease to serve as an insulator.

Any rolled material is suitable for it - whether it be a membrane or roofing material. Then in order - thermal insulation and finishing screed. With a surface location of groundwater, it makes sense to additionally arrange waterproofing on the ground.

Waterproofing the soil base is a job that requires accuracy and responsibility. It is possible to mount such floors when the soil in the area is dry, there is no groundwater or they lie deep.

It is necessary to take into account the level of precipitation observed in the construction area. The waterproofing of the floor on the ground itself does not take much time, but along with it it is carried out concrete pouring. It already takes almost a month to dry.

An example of a common mistake in construction: a leaky joint between the floor waterproofing on the ground and the horizontal waterproofing of the foundation wall.

The advantages of such floors are:

Lack of work on laying large and massive slabs, beams. The floor is simply poured with concrete. High quality and strength of the resulting surface.

Of the minuses, it should be noted that the soil requires careful preparation. You can’t just start working on the ground if it is not brought into line with all the requirements. Laying concrete floor on the ground can be carried out various methods, but the most acceptable of them remains this:

The soil base is carefully compacted, after which a layer of sand is added. The second layer is expanded clay or crushed stone of small and medium fractions. The floor is directly waterproofed. After that, a rough concrete screed is laid. There is a layer of vapor barrier material. screed. The selected floor covering is laid, but only after the concrete has completely dried.

Such a course of work is considered optimal. Even without special experience, such a floor can be made with your own hands, without resorting to the services of specialists.

Substrate preparation and concrete layer waterproofing

Scheme of a concrete floor on gravel with waterproofing.

Soil preparation before waterproofing is the most important stage of work. It is necessary to check that the soil is dry, and then compact it. When it is ready, the first preparatory layer is filled with sifted river sand.

The sand after filling is slightly moistened, carefully compacted.

The second layer is crushed stone of small and medium fractions, it is leveled and compacted. On this, the preparation of the soil surface before waterproofing is considered completed, it is only necessary to additionally check the horizontalness. This is done using the usual building level.

Waterproofing the concrete floor on the ground is carried out in this way:

Bituminous roll material or polymer-based membrane is rolled out on the base, observing the overlap. All strips should go in the same direction, the overlaps are glued with construction tape, which ensures reliable protection from moisture. If the materials are laid, it is necessary to re-check the complete absence of any surface damage. If there are gaps, cuts, etc., then such a film is completely unsuitable for use. During installation, you will have to make sure that the film goes on the walls by about 15-20 cm.

After installing the entire floor, small parts of the waterproofing material will remain above the surface. They are carefully cut with sharp knife. In some cases, the use of such materials is not possible.

You can replace this stage with pouring a concrete layer, for which a completely different type of waterproofing will be used. For this, apply coating materials, which completely covers the concrete. This option cannot be called worse or better, since both of them have their own characteristics and advantages.

An earthen floor is one of the simplest and most obvious flooring options for a home. In the old days, the recess was filled with several layers of tightly packed clay. Today, the earth floor in the original sense is very rare in houses, baths or other outbuildings. However, the very principle of covering the ground has developed and improved, is now known as a dirt floor or floor on the ground, and is widely used in cottage construction.

An earthen floor is one of the simplest and most obvious flooring options for a house.

Due to the fact that the building is located on the ground, contact between the foundation and the frame with moisture is inevitable even in areas with a dry climate. The impact of moisture is carried out in three ways: capillary contact of groundwater with elements floor base, accumulation of water vapor and contact with precipitation.

In the first case, water during periodic freezing and heating mechanically destroys the structure of concrete or wood flooring. In addition, mineral impurities contained in water have corrosive characteristics.
In the second case, water vapor causes rotting materials and the occurrence of fungi, bacteria and mold that are dangerous to health. In the third case, precipitation falls on the basement of the house, penetrates into the ground. All this reduces the service life of the building several times and gives the residents of the house a lot of practical inconvenience, not to mention excessive cash costs. It is expedient to prevent premature destruction of the building even at the construction stage by making a competent hydroprotection.

An earthen floor is often used in cottage construction.

Necessary conditions for high-quality waterproofing

Reliable waterproofing of the floor on the ground cannot be considered as a separate independent operation.
The construction of any building begins with the development of a project, taking into account the type of soil, climate and groundwater levels.
This is followed by work on the foundation, in which there is also horizontal and vertical moisture insulation.
If necessary, create drainage outlets against water ingress from below at the base and blind area against surface precipitation.
Without these measures, even the most expensive and thorough waterproofing of floors on the ground will turn into a waste of resources and time.
The durability of the building directly depends on the observance of construction technologies and the use of high-quality materials.

The durability of a building directly depends on compliance with technology

Soil waterproofing technology

After the foundation is created and the walls with the ceiling are erected, you can proceed to the floor device. In general, the entire floor structure is a multi-layered cushion of reinforcing, insulating and warming materials, or the so-called "pie". Below is the procedure for laying the tiers of the floor device.

The lower base is the compacted native soil, top part which is removed at the stage of laying the foundation. good decision the laying of a densely packed layer of homogeneously mixed clay is considered. Clay to a small extent passes moisture, acting as a reliable barrier to groundwater. However, this step requires additional shrinkage time and is rarely used.

The soil inside the contour of the foundation walls is covered with sand to a height of 10 centimeters or more. The sand is compacted using special equipment and additionally sags with the help of irrigation. This type of work requires river sand any size with high ability pass water. Other types of sand may contain clay impurities and are not suitable for these purposes.

A good solution is to lay a tightly packed layer of homogeneously mixed clay.

Next, crushed stone of a large fraction is poured to approximately the same height, and it is also carefully compacted. Granite crushed stone has the highest strength and frost resistance, so it is preferred over gravel. It should be clarified that sand and gravel together create a cushion that prevents the rise of water from below. A large stone is used for the reason that the voids between the individual grains do not allow water to build up pressure and rise up. At this stage, the building is protected against capillary wetting. At the same time, both layers, when compacted by their own weight, press on the soil below, which also contributes to waterproofing and the overall strength of the structure, as well as the stability of the foundation.

Large rubble will not allow water to rise up

At the next stage, the work will differ depending on which floor is provided in the building: concrete or wood. A non-decaying geotextile is laid on top of the gravel to prevent the concrete from leaking into the gravel layer. Top poured cement strainer low strength. The thickness of the layer is calculated by the designers based on the expected load of the building on the base. This screed is a preparation before waterproofing and is called a subfloor. For a wooden floor, a frame with lags is built above the primary screed, a draft floor of boards or plywood is stuffed on them.

Further, the waterproofing of the floor on the ground is carried out directly, at present it practically coincides with the vapor barrier. There are several types of floor waterproofing: coating, plastering, gluing, cast and impregnating. Each of the methods has its own characteristics, which should be carefully studied, compared and choose the most optimal in terms of price and quality.

Film floor waterproofing

In the coating method, liquid sealants, micro-solutions, rubber compounds and polymer varnishes are used. The method is relatively easy to use, does not require special skills and sophisticated equipment. Plaster insulation refers to coating and differs in materials. It uses plaster mortars higher density with fillers, cement, polymers or gypsum.

In the coating method, various mixtures are used

In gluing insulation, specially designed roll, tile or sheet materials, for example, polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC films, diffusion membranes, roofing felt, roofing felt. Often there are economical recommendations with the use of a film as an insulator. The film is laid with a rise on the walls and with an overlap along the edges of 10 - 15 cm, the seams between the strips are glued with adhesive tape. It should be noted that at the slightest damage and rupture of the film, the insulating role loses its power. In comparison with bitumen-based roll materials, the film with more than one layer is significantly inferior in strength and durability. It is much more efficient to fuse rolled bituminous material onto the screed with the obligatory entry into walls from a few centimeters high up to the upper level of the foundation.

The film is applied to the floor and rises slightly to the walls

Roll materials are perfect for waterproofing

Cast waterproofing is a filling of the surface with a continuous layer of special hot mastic. This process is more time consuming than the others, as it requires special training and equipment. The surface to be coated must be dust-free, leveled, absolutely dry and pre-primed with bituminous mortar. For greater efficiency, the process is repeated two or more times.

For greater efficiency, the process should be repeated several times.

Impregnation waterproofing of the floor - application to the base of a substance that can be absorbed by concrete and stone surfaces. The materials are mixtures containing bitumen, polymers, liquid glass, synthetic resins. Distinctive feature this method It can be called that it is used not only at the construction stage, but also when it is necessary to repair the house.

This method can be used not only at the construction stage, but also when repairing a house.

With regard to a wooden floor, it should be noted that the underground must be ventilated by natural or forced ventilation. This must be taken care of at the stage of laying the foundation. All wooden elements structures are covered with liquid several times protective compounds. The draft floor can be covered with a film, cast or impregnating method.

At the end of the waterproofing work, the surface is laid with a heater. The most common extruded polystyrene is a durable option with a low water saturation coefficient. The connection of the foundation, walls and floor is vulnerable to low temperatures. It is advisable to additionally equip the lower sides of the walls with vertical pieces of polystyrene. Instead, fibrous layers of mineral, slag wool, foam glass, expanded clay can be used.

Film waterproofing is perfect for a balcony

If a vapor barrier was not provided during the waterproofing, it is produced on top of the insulation layer. Suitable as a protective layer different kinds specialized films or liquid rubber.

Waterproofing floors on the ground is effective in combination with other construction activities

The last, floating screed reinforced with mesh is poured onto the extreme insulating layer of the concrete floor.

The final stage is the laying of any finish coat floor, the choice of which is dictated by the design of the room, profit or other considerations of the customer.

Summing up, we repeat that the waterproofing of floors on the ground is effective in combination with other construction activities. The direct impact on the quality of workmanship is influenced by the observance of technologies and the responsible choice of materials. When choosing them, it is necessary to evaluate technical indicators, quality, predicted service life, suitability in data climatic conditions, consumption, compatibility with each other, and other details. It is extremely difficult for a beginner to take into account possible risk factors. All stages of construction, including the arrangement of a concrete or wooden floor, are recommended to be carried out by experienced specialists.

Video: Floors on the ground. How to do it right?

Video: Floor waterproofing - repair technology

Schemes for flooring on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bath

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

with support on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on logs;
based on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options would be better and easier?

In homes without a basement, ground flooring is a popular solution for all ground floor spaces. Floors on the ground - cheap, simple and easy to perform, it is also beneficial to arrange in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple design, application modern materials, placement in the floor of the heating circuit (warm floor), make such floors comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of the floor on the ground may be less than that of the floor above the ventilated underground.

It is better to refuse the floor on the ground if it is necessary to backfill with soil at too high a height, more than 0.6-1 m. The cost of backfilling and compacting the soil in this case may be too high.

The floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on a pile or column foundation with a grillage, which is located above the surface of the earth.

Three basic schemes for laying floors on the ground

In the first variant concrete monolithic reinforced slab floor rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be calculated for the standard load of floors, have appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as a temporary formwork during the device iron concrete slab overlap. Such a floor is often referred to as a "suspended ground floor".

A suspended floor on the ground has to be done if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is the floor on the foundation - the slab, when reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of the building, serves as a support for the walls and the base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden lag in the intervals between load-bearing walls supported by bulk soil.

Here, the floor slab or logs are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the last option to correctly call the floor on the ground, which will be our story.

Floors on the ground should provide:

thermal insulation of premises from the conditions of energy saving;
comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
protection against penetration into the premises of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon;
prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensate inside the floor structure;
reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling a soil cushion for a floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-porous soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, then the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for the pillow device: sand, fine gravel, sand and gravel, and with a low level of groundwater - sandy loam and loam. It is advantageous to use the soil left in the area from, the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The soil of the pillow is carefully compacted in layers (not thicker than 15 cm.) by tamping with spilling the soil with water. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if a mechanical rammer is used.

Large gravel should not be placed in the pillow, broken brick, pieces of concrete. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the pillow from bulk soil is recommended to be made within 300-600 mm. Compact the bulk soil to a state natural soil still fails. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of loose soil can lead to too much and uneven subsidence of the floor.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted rubble or expanded clay in the pillow. This underlying capping layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles with a size of less than 4 mm in this layer should be no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protection from gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay with a thickness of 18 cm. in terms of heat-saving capacity corresponds to 50 mm. foam. To protect against punching of insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured over the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Prior to filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water and sewer pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes of the soil ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for mounting pipes in them in the future.

Ground floor construction

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

ground floor with concrete screed;
ground floor with dry screed;
ground floor on wooden beams.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive in the device, but more reliable and durable than other designs.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

Laid on a soil cushion ground filter materialmoisture contained in freshly placed concrete (eg. polyethylene film thickness not less than 0.15 mm.). The film is put on the walls.
Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, on overall height all layers of the floor are fixed separating edge layer from strips with a thickness of 20 - 30 mm cut from insulation boards.
Then arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete of class B7.5-B10 on crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer designed for sticking waterproofing. The radius of the junction of concrete to the walls 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The grid fits into lower part slabs with protective layer concrete at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations, it can alsouse steel fiber length 50-80 mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. At the time of hardening, the concrete is covered with a film or poured with water. Read:
For hardened concrete floor preparation bonded waterproofing. Either two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bituminous basis with the establishment of each layer on the wall. Rolls are unrolled and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture, and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The waterproofing layer of the floor must always be connected to a similar waterproofing layer of the wall. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
On a layer of hydro-gas insulation laying insulation boards. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Styrofoam is also used, with a density of at least PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage). Styrofoam eventually collapses upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying the foam on polymer-bitumen coating one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by heat engineering calculation.
On the insulation layer laying underlayment(for example, a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to the moisture contained in the freshly laid concrete floor screed.
Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a "warm floor" system (or without a system). When underfloor heating, it is necessary to provide expansion joints in the screed. Monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. performed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf / cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The grid is laid in the lower part of the layer. Read: . For a more thorough leveling of the surface of the concrete screed, especially if the final floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling mortar from factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 cm.
For screed installing a clean floor.

This is a classic floor on the ground. On its basis, various versions are possible - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floor on the ground is often done without a layer concrete preparation . A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a basis for sticking rolled waterproofing on a paper or fabric basis impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation as a waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the soil cushion.

A profiled membrane is a high-density polyethylene (PVP) sheet with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or in the form of a truncated cone) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. Available in density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with a width of 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed to the sandy base, without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into the sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying thermal insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands without breaks the movement of workers and vehicles for transportation concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand cushion with spikes down. The spikes of the membrane will lock into the pillow.

The seams between the overlapped rolls are carefully glued with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which makes it possible to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If extruded polystyrene foam boards with profiled joint joints are used for the construction of the thermal insulation layer, then such boards can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Bedding of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

The polymer film of waterproofing in this embodiment is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If a upper layer soil cushions are poured out of expanded clay, then you can abandon the layer of insulation under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with bulk density 250–300 kg / m 3 it is enough to make a heat-insulating layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with a bulk density of 400–500 kg / m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation capacity, you will have to lay a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers with a thickness of 15 cm and compacted with a manual or mechanical rammer. The easiest way to compact is multifraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay decrease thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to arrange a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Expanded clay concrete is coarse-pored without sandy encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a waterproof cement capsule.

Durable, warm and with low water absorption will be the base for the floor, made of coarse-pored claydite concrete without sand.

Ground floor with dry screed

In floors on the ground as the upper bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises of the first floor of the house more simple and cheap option there will be a floor installation on the ground with a dry combined floor screed, Fig.5.

The floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - a bathroom, a boiler room.

The floor on the ground with a prefabricated screed consists of the following items(positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Flooring - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum-fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous-fibrous mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 - Expansion dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Concrete reinforced base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The device for adjoining the floor to the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Lacquer coating parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Adhesive and primer for parquet, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.
6. Water-dispersion adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of PSB 35 foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam, according to the calculation thickness.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. Outer wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay the insulation in a strip along the outer walls (pos. 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for the floor without underfloor heating (without warm floors).

The thickness of the floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation in the floor, along the perimeter of the outer walls, with a tape, at least 0.8 wide m. Outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of up to 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the outer walls, depends quite strongly on the outside temperature. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and plinth.

The soil temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes must be insulated. For this, it is recommended to arrange thermal protection at two boundaries (Fig. 7):

Insulate outside the basement and foundation of the house to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation in the floor structure along the perimeter of the outer walls. The width of the insulation tape along the outer walls is at least 0.8 m.(pos.11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the total resistance to heat transfer in the floor - ground - basement section should not be less than the same parameter for outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the basement plus floor insulation must be no less than the thickness of the outer wall insulation. For the climatic zone in the area of Moscow, the total thickness of the foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the outer walls.

When choosing the dimensions of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that the insulation of the foundation helps to reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its sole.

it minimum requirements to floor insulation on the ground. It is clear that the larger the size of the heat-insulating layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Lay thermal insulation under the entire floor surface in order to save energy, it is absolutely necessary only in the case of underfloor heating in the premises or the construction of an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room is useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor surface. Heat absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the soles of the feet). This is especially important if the finishing floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W / (m 2 ° С). A calculator to calculate this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on logs on a concrete screed

Base plate made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. on a layer of crushed stone, compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden bars - logs with a minimum section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., it is recommended to lay on the waterproofing layer in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By sliding or pushing the linings, the height of the lag is adjusted. Span between adjacent support points lag no more than 900 mm. Between the lags and the walls should leave a gap of 20-30 mm.

The joists lie freely without attachment to the base. At the time of installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary bonds.

For the device of the subfloor, wood-based boards are usually used - OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the plates is not less than 24 mm. All joints of the plates must necessarily rely on the logs. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the plates between adjacent lags.

The subfloor can be made from a grooved floorboard. Such a floor made of high-quality boards can be used without a floor covering. Permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the lags. Plates from mineral wool be sure to cover the top with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents the penetration of microparticles of insulation into the room.

Rolled waterproofing from bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials applied in two layers on the concrete underlying layer by melting (for welded roll materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. On device pasting waterproofing it is necessary to provide longitudinal and transverse overlapping of panels not less than 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground floor space on the ground along the logs, slots in the baseboards must be provided in the rooms. At least two opposite corners of the room leave holes with an area of 20-30 cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on the logs on the posts

There is another constructive scheme of the floor - this is wooden floor on the ground on logs, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5.:
1-4 - Elements of the finishing floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden log.
9 - Wood leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

The device of the floor on the logs along the columns allows you to reduce the height of the soil cushion or completely abandon its device.

Floors, soils and foundations

Floors on the ground are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If heaving, then the floor in winter and spring can "walk" under the influence of forces.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this, and the underground part

The design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Warming the soil under the house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can only be recommended for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils Location on.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is also necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multi-layer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the basement and load-bearing part walls bypassing the wall and floor insulation.

During the operation of the house, excessive moisture can cause irreparable damage to its structure. If in apartment buildings floor waterproofing is necessary only in order not to flood the neighbors from below in the event of a pipe break, then floor waterproofing in a private house is a glaring necessity. The water contained in the soil rises up through the capillaries and, penetrating into the room, changes the microclimate in it and violates the integrity and structure of the floor and foundation of the building. Acids, alkalis and salts dissolved in water adversely affect wood and concrete. To protect the floors in the house from the negative effects of water, it is necessary to perform a number of works. About which ones, we will tell in this article.

For waterproofing floors on the ground, it is necessary to start with backfilling at the construction stage

Floor waterproofing on the ground

In private houses, the floor on the first floor is equipped directly on the ground, which causes some difficulties in providing protection from moisture.

Rising through capillaries from deep soil layers, water can penetrate into the structure of wood or concrete, saturating it with moisture. In addition to the destructive effect of salts contained in water, there is another negative factor. Wood or concrete saturated with moisture, freezing and then, thawing, lose their integrity: air bubbles form in the concrete, and the wood begins to crumble, which will further lead to destruction.

That is why all work on waterproofing the floor does not begin with the use of newfangled modern materials, but with the correct equipment of the "cushion" under the building.

Important! Floor waterproofing on the ground must be carried out at the construction stage. In an already operated building, all attempts to waterproof the floor will be in the nature of "half-measures" that do not bring 100% of the result.

The technology of "filling" to ensure high-quality waterproofing:

We carefully compact the soil at the bottom of the pit under the building;
We fall asleep crushed stone with a fraction of 30 - 50 mm (large) with a layer from 7 cm to 10 cm or more;
We tamp the rubble;
We fill the sand with a layer of 7 - 10 cm. You can use any: river, ravine (quarry).
We carefully tamp the sand.

Performing such filling, we create wide air pockets, cutting off the capillary rise of water upwards. The ability to keep water out will depend on how carefully the layers of the bedding are compacted.

Sometimes, for safety reasons, large stones are first laid on the bottom of the pit on compacted soil, and only then - crushed stone. This way also exists. The main thing is to tamp well.

Important! It is impossible to replace the layer of crushed stone in the bedding with expanded clay, since the latter takes in water and swells. But if the groundwater is very far away, the soil is constantly dry, then expanded clay can be used for backfilling. In this case, the entire bedding will not perform the function of waterproofing, but only a quality base.

The “filling” described above is mandatory if the groundwater level is above 2 m. Otherwise, it is optional, but desirable - as a safety net.

After completing the pillow, there are two ways: to perform a wooden floor on logs or a concrete floor. The technology of their waterproofing is different.

Wooden floor waterproofing

To equip a wooden floor, it is necessary to erect support posts under the logs. They can be made from brick or monolithic concrete poured into the formwork.

After the concrete has dried, the surface of the columns should be treated coated waterproofing from all sides. On top of the posts, you can lay rolled material, for example, roofing material. Thus, we will protect the logs at the junction with the supporting pillars from the influence of moisture.

After laying the log, it is necessary to equip the subfloor. To do this, you can use thick sheets of moisture-resistant plywood and nail them to the logs from the underside. And you can make a traditional - plank draft floor.

Subfloor waterproofing looks like this:

If we use moisture-resistant plywood, it will already perform some waterproofing functions;

The base of the subfloor made of waterproof plywood can be waterproofed with a dense polyethylene film

We lay a layer of roll film waterproofing on plywood. For example, 200 micron polyethylene film or diffuse membranes. Be sure to lay with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm, gluing the joints with tape. We put a heater on top.
We lay the rough plank floor on the logs.

We also lay a plastic film for waterproofing on a rough wooden floor.

We lay a plastic film on the subfloor again, make an overlap on the walls of 20 cm.
As an additional thermal insulation, we lay a layer of polyethylene foam, which also has some waterproofing properties.

This completes the waterproofing of the wooden floor. Even in the technology described above, provided that sheets of moisture-resistant plywood were laid, and polyethylene film was laid on them, laying polyethylene film on the subfloor is an additional measure. may serve as an additional measure.

Scheme of arranging a concrete floor with layers of waterproofing

The arrangement of a concrete floor on the ground is complicated by the fact that it is necessary to create a monolithic structure in conditions of moving soil. After completing the “cushion”, a rough screed should be made. There are two ways to do this.

First option.

On top of the sand, which is the finishing layer of the "bedding", pour a layer of fine gravel. Then knead cement-sand mortar slightly liquid consistency and fill it with gravel, so that a layer of a rough screed of at least 3-5 cm is formed on top.

After the concrete has dried, lay a rolled waterproofing on it in two layers, for example, roofing felt or roofing felt, always without sprinkles. Carefully glue all joints with a gas burner.

Then lay the thermal insulation and perform a finishing screed.

Second option.

Spread a 200 micron polyethylene film on top of the sand. Smooth it out and glue all the joints well with tape. In this case, it is necessary to act very carefully so as not to tear the film.

On top of the film, make a rough screed from a cement-sand mixture (normal consistency). This layer is also called "lean concrete", as it is only needed for waterproofing. The layer should be 5 - 7 cm thick. To prepare the solution, crushed stone of a fraction of 5 - 10 mm (fine) is used, sand - only river sand.

For waterproofing a concrete floor, rolled sheets can be spread on a rough screed. waterproofing materials

On the rough screed, you can also spread a layer of waterproofing (roofing material or PVC membranes). A heater is laid on top, then a finishing screed.

The above is enough to provide high-quality waterproofing in most cases, but there are situations when additional waterproofing is required.

Do you need additional floor waterproofing?

When groundwater is too close to the surface of the earth, additional measures may be required to protect against it. It is possible to determine whether additional waterproofing is really needed by making the appropriate calculations. This is done by specialized companies that carry out house construction projects. Soil analyzes are taken, water levels are measured at different times of the year, and a verdict is made based on the data obtained.

Additional work to ensure floor waterproofing:

We ram the soil base;
We lay a layer of oily clay or roofing material in 2 layers;
We lay gravel and sand;
We impregnate layers of crushed stone and sand with bitumen;
We lay a rough screed from "lean concrete";
We carry out waterproofing of the subfloor roll material or coating mastics.
We lay the vapor barrier.

The measures taken will be quite enough to ensure high-quality waterproofing of the floor in conditions of close moisture.

Kitchen floor waterproofing

The floor in the kitchen is affected by moisture not only from below - from the ground, but also from above - in the process of washing, cooking and other kitchen work a lot of water gets on the floor.

Therefore, it is necessary to protect the floor not only from below, as it was written above, but also from above.

The principle of waterproofing the floor in the kitchen largely depends on the finish flooring.

Equipping a wooden floor in the kitchen is impractical, as it is most susceptible to moisture, and it will be difficult to protect it. If it is decided to lay parquet, parquet board or massive board, you should open their surface with a waterproof varnish.

For additional waterproofing of the floor in the kitchen, you can treat the concrete base with a painting material.

If it is planned to use linoleum as a finishing coating in the kitchen, then the concrete base on which it is laid should be treated with a waterproofing material, for example, by painting or coating. Then put the linoleum on the glue. In this case, linoleum itself will act as a waterproofing material.

Ceramic tiles also have water-repellent properties, but as a safety net, it will not be superfluous to process concrete screed bitumen-polymer mastics, paint or otherwise. And for better adhesion tile adhesive with a base on top of the waterproofing must be impregnated with a special primer.

Waterproofing the floor in a private house is a very responsible matter. If this is not done on time and with high quality, fungus and other mold may appear over time, which cannot be removed. And the structure of the whole house will gradually collapse. O high humidity indoors, which leads to frequent allergies and other diseases, needless to say. It is better to think over everything and complete it on time than to rebuild and repair it later.