Step-by-step instructions for laying paving stones. Methods for laying paving slabs on different bases Stages of laying paving slabs

The sidewalk is an integral part of any suburban, commercial and other types of sites. There are several options for arranging the sidewalk zone, but the most popular are the laying methods. paving slabs which will be discussed in this article.

Paving slabs and stone (paving stones) have solid strength, durability, decorative finished coating and such improvement of the sidewalk differs favorably from other methods in that it does not require specialized equipment such as asphalt roller (when asphalting), vibrating type concrete rammer (when concreting), etc.

This method of arranging the sidewalk is also advantageous in that long technological pauses can be performed with it, which will not be possible with asphalting and concreting, when work must be done at a time to get a solid, high-quality layer of paving.

As in all other technologies for arranging the passage zone (sidewalk) of a summer cottage or other area, the technology for laying concrete paving slabs also includes the following sequence and production stages:

preparation of the base (soil); bedding device; paving slab/stone coating device.

Consider all these stages of preparation for arranging the pavement with tiles in general terms, all the nuances and rules are a separate, very voluminous article based on normative documents and technological maps for the performance of relevant land and special works.

Foundation preparation in the simplest case includes a complex of simple processes, such as: etching and uprooting of vegetation, digging and leveling the soil (cutting mounds and filling holes), tamping the soil.

If we are talking about large irregularities of the soil surface over large areas, then the base for paving slabs is prepared by special construction equipment (bulldozers, scrapers, excavators) and specialized instrumentation (level), but this is a completely different topic.

With elementary soil preparation, first, work is carried out to uproot green spaces: you need to check that there are no cherry roots and other fast-growing ones, as well as pull out all the small weeds and etch the soil. Next, ground irregularities are detected using a level (you can laser level) and cut off the hillocks, the soil is poured into the pits and rammed.

The installation of the bedding layer is carried out on a stabilized, prepared soil and there is nothing more than preparing the base for paving slabs with several layers of loose stone materials (crushed stone, screenings, sand).

These layers are applied one after the other with a certain thickness in one case or another.

Also, the bedding layer may be a concrete pad or absent altogether if there is an old, durable coating that is suitable as a base for laying paving slabs (old asphalt pavement, for example).

The paving slab / stone coating device can be produced in several ways, it all depends on the coating on which it is laid.

An important nuance that distinguishes the process of laying paving from tiles is that at the slightest deviation from straightness along the cord, it will be almost impossible to “play” with seams and correct the situation.

As for the laying itself, the main thing is to maintain straightness along the cord, and the plane and level - this depends on the previous stage - the installation of a bedding layer for paving slabs.

Leveling flaws (holes and deviations from the level) in the case of laying on mortar is very difficult, since paving concrete or stone slabs are heavy material and simply squeeze out the excess thickness of the mortar under its weight.

AT this case we are talking about low and medium loads on such a sidewalk (people, cars), therefore, it does not require special stabilization of the base by concreting with a reinforcement device.

However, depending on the soil itself and on the intensity of the load, a different arrangement of the underlying layer is produced, and various underlying materials are used, on which paving slabs are directly laid. At the same time (as can be seen in the figure), there is a natural circulation of precipitation, that is, the soil "breathes", which does not happen when asphalting or concreting.

AT modern arrangement land plots, most often paving slabs are laid on the ground in the following ways:

laying paving slabs on the carving; laying paving slabs on sand; paving slab laying.

With this list, there are many configurations of the structures of the litter layers themselves (the thickness of the drainage-litter and leveling layer, the presence / absence of geotextiles, etc.), all these are engineering calculations that are calculated according to SNiP regarding the type of soil and loads.

Laying tiles on the carving is carried out in most cases if the sidewalk goes with a significant slope.

The fact is that the carving is a dry cement-sand mixture, which seizes under the tile at the very first precipitation (or watering from a hose after laying) and securely adheres it (the tile) so that the possibility of its slipping towards the slope is excluded.

Also, carving is used if the earth does not have sufficient water absorption, which can lead to washing out of sand from under the tile (if it is laid on it).

An important nuance when laying a tile on a carving is that it burns out very quickly in the baking sun, so work on sunny summer days must be done quickly or with shade. Also, the carving is not stored for a long time when used. wet sand(moisture will be transferred to the cement and setting will start).

Laying tiles on the sand is perhaps the most ancient, classic way of arranging sidewalks. Laying on a cement-sand mixture (on a carving) and on sand are absolutely identical and are made on a layer of compacted gravel 10-20 cm thick, which serves as a cushion for paving slabs. In this case, the sand layer itself, as a rule, should not exceed 10 cm in order to prevent excessive shrinkage.

With this laying technology, it is necessary to be safe from washing out the sand from under the tile. To do this, it is necessary that along the perimeter of such a sidewalk there is a curb concreted with outer side mortar with a strength grade of at least M100.

It will also be effective against washout to have a layer of geotextile under the layer of sand embankment. In addition, the technology can accommodate two layers of geotextile: the first directly on the prepared soil, the second - on the compacted crushed stone layer.

Laying paving slabs on screenings can be observed as a cheap alternative to the first two methods. Granite screening itself is a waste from crushed stone, which consists of crushed stone sand and small fragments, which makes it possible to use it both as a base for paving slabs, a crushed stone layer, and as a sandy layer on which paving slabs are directly laid. At the same time, it is easily leveled and rammed like sand and has less shrinkage.

However, if the soil is unstable and does not absorb water well, then it is still necessary to make an embankment of crushed stone as a drainage layer, and then install paving slabs on the screening layer. At the same time, it will also be good to include geotextile material in the technology.

It is possible to observe the use of granotsev as a material that replaces the crushed stone bedding when laying paving slabs on carving or sand. Also this material comes out of excellent quality. concrete mix for concreting sidewalks, blind area, pouring the same concrete paving slabs.

Laying paving slabs on a monolithic base

This technology is very costly and requires many additional workflows, however, it is necessary if high and intense loads on the pavement are expected, because the rammed bulk base is not able to perceive them.

The essence of the technology is to create a kind of platform that will not be susceptible to problem soils that bulge, sag and deform in every possible way, and will also evenly distribute the load from the operation of the sidewalk.

In this case, there is only one way of laying - laying paving slabs on the mortar, while there are several options regarding the surface:

laying paving slabs on concrete; laying paving slabs on asphalt.

There are many rules and regulations regarding the loads on concrete base, they are all calculated according to SNiP ( building codes and rules) - the brand of concrete, the class of reinforcement and its diameter, etc., etc., we will consider the main options for private suburban arrangement.

Laying paving slabs on concrete involves not just on a concrete pad, but on a whole reinforced plate, 10 cm thick with a reinforcing mesh frame with a 10x10 cm cell of reinforcement, preferably A400C with a diameter of 10 mm or more.

The plate may have a more complex reinforcement structure and a greater thickness of the concrete layer.

Such coverage is provided on unstable soils, as well as in places of constant high and intense loads, the most elementary example of such a case is parking lots.

It is clear that the laying of concrete paving slabs in a private suburban area on a layer of concrete is most often a bedding of rammed gravel, on which a 10 cm concrete pad with 6 mm reinforcement is laid. The tile itself is laid out on a 2 cm layer cement-sand mortar(the higher the concrete strength grade, the better).

Laying paving slabs on asphalt according to the technology as such is not provided, it is performed if it is decided to replace the old asphalt coating (in a private house), but the owners do not want to dismantle it.

In this case, it is necessary to remove the areas that do not hold well and pour them concrete mortar(under the asphalt there is, as a rule, a crushed stone embankment). In addition, it is necessary to level the pits, “open cracks” and also fill them with concrete.

If there is asphalt, then it is better for them to “patch” the old coating, in short, to carry out ordinary repairs, as roads are patched. Such a base for laying paving slabs must be cleaned of dirt and dust with water from a hose, after which you can proceed to laying a couple of cm on the solution layer.

Laying is an obligatory stage in the arrangement of any local area, because the paths make the site not only more comfortable, but also aesthetic. For these purposes, you can use the most different materials, but most often the choice falls on paving slabs. There is nothing surprising here: it has a lot of advantages, and the material laying technology is so accessible that literally everyone can do it with their own hands. In order to properly lay the path and thereby ennoble the summer cottage, you only need to follow the step-by-step instructions - we suggest that you read it further.

Why choose paving slabs

So that you have no doubts about the advisability of using this material to create country paths, consider the main advantages:

A large selection of shapes, shades, as well as textures of textures - tiles make it possible to embody any design idea and create a harmonious landscape ensemble.
Ease of use - puddles do not remain on the paths of paving slabs, since all excess moisture goes through the tile seams.

Paving slabs are comfortable and durable

Durability - the material is not deformed under the constant influence of the scorching sun, precipitation and sudden changes in temperature. In addition, the tile is durable and low abrasion, so it can withstand long-term intensive use - over 15 years. But even if some part of the coating is damaged, it can always be restored by replacing a few tiles.
Ease of installation - laying a path will not be difficult even for those who have never dealt with such landscape work. To make sure of this, consider step by step the technology of laying tiles.

Stage 1: Choosing a scheme for laying tiles

First of all, you need to decide how you will lay the tiles - the shape, size and amount of material for the track depends on this.

The most common schemes:

Classical ordering is the easiest laying method, involving the placement of paving slabs one after the other. Most often, square or rectangular elements are used - they are easier to dock with each other.

Advice. To give such a rather uncomplicated track originality, you can combine different colors and tile textures.

Offset - one more traditional way laying: tiles are placed so that their joints do not match. Here the combination is actively welcomed. different colors and textures, but the shape of the elements must be uniform.
Herringbone - laying at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. Rectangular or curly elements can be used. A complex version of the Christmas tree is braided: paving slabs are also laid at an angle, but with alternation - along and across. To make the pattern clear, it is recommended to use only two colors.

Paths made of paving slabs look very modern and beautiful.

Chess - laying square two-color tiles in a checkerboard pattern. Although the option is simple in execution, due to the play of colors, it looks very impressive.
Geometry - diverse geometric patterns are formed from tiles: squares, rhombuses, zigzags, etc. The composition is created by using elements of different colors, but of the same shape.

Stage 2: Preparation of materials and tools

When you decide on the laying scheme, you can go for tiles in hardware store. When choosing a product, be guided not only by its design, but also by performance indicators: slip level, maximum allowable weight loads, processing capabilities (cutting, painting).

Advice. In order to correctly determine the number of tiles, it is better to draw up a simple plan in advance: indicate the shape and dimensions of the intended track. Later, taking into account the area working area and the dimensions of a particular tile, you can easily calculate the required amount of material.

In addition to the paving slab itself, you will also need:

dry cement;
sand;
small crushed stone or gravel;
small pegs - wooden or metal;
mallet - rubber or wooden;
Master OK;

Before laying tiles, the surface must be leveled.

level;
tile knife;
tamper;
profile;
geotextile;
twine.

Stage 3: Laying on a concrete base or sand bed

A well-prepared base is a guarantee of successful laying cottage path, so this stage needs to be thought out to the details. The first step is to mark the future path: mark its boundaries, drive in pegs around the perimeter and connect them with twine.

Advice. If on site clay soil, take care of drainage: make longitudinal and transverse slopes in the resulting trench so that moisture flows to the edges.

And now you need to solve the most important question: what kind of base will you lay the tiles on? There are two options:

Sand pillow. First, a layer of sand must be laid on the ground - 5-10 cm in height. Pack it up and moisturize. Lay geotextile on top. Then lay a layer of crushed stone or gravel - also 5-10 cm high. Walk along the base with a rammer and add up to 5 cm of sand. After that, perform the final moistening and compaction of the pillow. This version of the base is only suitable for narrow and short paths.
Concrete base. First, fill the trenches with a layer of sand - about 5 cm. Moisten and compact the base. Then cook cement mixture: 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. Fill the trench with the resulting composition - the layer should be 4-5 cm. Be sure to level the concrete with a trowel. This version of the base is more durable than the first, therefore it is suitable for tracks of any size.

Laying tiles on sand cushion

Stage 4: Tile laying technology

The last stage is the direct construction of the path from paving slabs. You need to start laying only from yourself - so you do not deform the prepared base. According to the chosen scheme, install the first tile, adjust its position and fix it on the base, carefully knocking it out with a mallet.

Focusing on the first element, lay the entire track, keeping gaps of 2 mm. Tamp each tile with a mallet so that it firmly "sits" into the base. Periodically check the height of the cover - if you notice that any element is laid unevenly, use a trowel to gently lift it, adjust the position and re-fix it on the track.

After the paving slabs have been laid, fill the joints with either sand or a dry cement-sand mixture. Then remove excess filler and carefully moisten the gaps. The seams must be tight, as they will account for part of the load that the track will take on.

Advice. To fill the joints, use only clean sand, which does not contain any organic impurities, so that vegetation does not soon appear between the tiles.

You can walk along the laid path only 2-3 days after its arrangement.

Laying paving slabs is relatively inexpensive, but spectacular way ennoble adjoining territory. As you can see, the arrangement of paths does not require professional skills or complex tools - it is quite possible to make paths with your own hands. So study carefully step by step instructions styling and you can safely get to work.

How to lay paving slabs: video

Paving slabs in the country: photo

How to lay paving slabs? This question has a modern sound, as the arrangement of tracks with its help is gaining impressive popularity. It is posted not only because it is fashionable. This is facilitated by a beautiful appearance, and practicality, and ease of installation. Modern construction industry makes it possible to choose a material from a wide range of products that differ in shape, color, size. However, it should be borne in mind that the tile is still different in quality, and therefore you should not use the services of dubious sellers - such a product will not last long.

The essence of the material

At its core, paving slabs are a high-strength tile block designed for street laying when forming sidewalks, paths, and playgrounds. It is not for nothing that it is also called paving stones, as it resembles a stone coating in appearance. Laying street tiles allows you to get rid of such procedures as asphalting or concreting.

The main advantages of such a coating are ease of installation and operation, the possibility of repair, high strength and wear resistance, resistance to sunlight, heat, precipitation, temperature changes and frost resistance. Its decorative effect is especially noted, since the variety of shapes and colors make it possible to create various ornaments and even drawings on the ground.

Paving slabs can be made from various materials. The most widespread are concrete products formed according to special technology with the addition of pigments. Less often (taking into account the increased cost) tiles from natural stone, baked clay with the creation of an original texture, as well as rubber-based.

concrete tiles you can make your own. To do this, as in the factory version, one of 2 methods is used: vibrocasting and vibrocompression. In the first case, the form is filled with a concrete solution with compaction, after which it is subjected to vibration for a specified time, and then dried in natural conditions. The second method is more complicated, since it involves combining vibration with compression of the workpiece using a press, that is, vibration is performed under pressure, which provides a more monolithic structure of the product.

In general, the choice of paving slabs is carried out according to the following parameters: dimensions, thickness, shape, color, surface topography. Smooth tiles are not placed on the sidewalk to prevent slipping of the feet. A certain relief is created on its surface, which is also capable of playing a decorating role. The relief pattern is considered an important parameter in the selection of products. It can be slightly noticeable, that is, in this case, the tile just has a rough surface. When forming a certain design, preference is sometimes given to a pronounced relief in the form of an ornament or pattern.

The shape of paving slabs, even factory-made, can be very different: square, rectangle, polygon, roundness, etc. The following forms are recognized as the most popular: paving stones (rectangle), honeycomb (hexagon), wave, gzhelka, flower, scales, clover, fleece.

Required Tools

When laying paving slabs with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

grinder or angle grinder;
tamper;
Master OK;
putty knife;
shovel;
scoop;
mallet;
a hammer;
hacksaw;
hacksaw for metal;
jigsaw;
construction level;
metal ruler;
square;
protractor;
roulette;
hose nozzle.

Laying rules

Paths and platforms on the site will please the eye for a long time if the issue of how to properly lay paving slabs is resolved. The event itself, although it takes a lot of time, is carried out quite simply, and therefore everything can be done independently. Certain rules for laying paving slabs will help in this.

In general, the entire installation process can be divided into several milestones:

development of laying scheme;
preparatory work;
directly laying tiles;
filling tile joints;
installation of curbs.

It should be noted that event planning is very importance. At this stage, a laying scheme is developed, namely, the shape of the track, the pattern on the surface, color scheme. Already at this stage, it is important to accurately calculate the need for specific elements. It should be borne in mind that if there is a shortage of tiles, there will certainly be problems with the spread of sizes in different batches of goods and with a color tint. Everything must be purchased in 1 entry.

When designing tiled masonry, it must be taken into account that such an element of arrangement is striking, so it must be in harmony with the style of everything. landscape design. The choice of element dimensions must also take into account the load on the surface being laid out, in particular, the possibility of collision with vehicles or the rolling of heavy carts.

The question of how to lay paving slabs is related to the dimensions of the site, location on the site, and the purpose of the coating. There are several ways to lay paving slabs, which provide a different visual perception. Most commonly used traditional schemes laying: brick (ordinary), column, herringbone, chess. Such masonry forms regular geometric shapes and can be carried out in a horizontal, vertical or diagonal direction, as well as in a combined way. At the same time, you can satisfy your imagination and provide styling with unconventional methods: in a circle, wave and other fancy options.

In order to lay paving slabs with your own hands, it should be remembered that it is impossible to lay out the surface only from solid elements. You will definitely have to cut the bricks, and for this, without having the skill, you may have to ruin more than one tile. At the same time, the amount of necessary cutting increases when choosing diagonal system styling, especially with an unconventional scheme. Cutting tiles is done with a special knife or a grinder with a disc for cutting concrete.

The correct formation of the coating implies the satisfaction of the following conditions:

elements are placed in recesses, and protrusion above the ground surface should not exceed 3.5-4.5 cm;
tiles are laid only on carefully compacted dense soil;
the surface must be flat;
good drainage (drainage) should be provided, excluding the appearance of puddles on the laid paving stones.

Preparatory stage

The solution to the question of how to properly lay paving slabs is largely determined by the careful preparation of the area where the process will be carried out. On the preparatory stage the following main activities are carried out:

Digging a hole. The work begins with the removal of the top layer of soil, which helps to solve 2 problems at once: to level the work site and create the desired recess for laying tiles. As a rule, the soil is removed to a depth of about 19-22 cm for footpaths and 28-32 cm in case of a possible collision with vehicles.
Soil compaction. Over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe dug recess, it is necessary to carefully compact the soil. This condition is especially important when solving the problem of how to lay paving slabs on sand. In this case, it is recommended to soak the bottom of the recess well from a hose terminated with a sprayer.

When preparing the working area, the need for drainage should be taken into account. Most often, it is provided by forming a general slope of the entire site (approximately 3-4 º per meter).

Zone restriction

An obligatory element of a sidewalk or paving slab is a side limiter in the form of a curb. In its absence, the extreme tiles will move over time under load and moisture. It is best to use a ready-made concrete curb for this purpose. You can make it with your own hands by pouring concrete into the formwork or using bricks, which are then plastered.

Installation of curb plates is carried out in this order. A trench is dug around the entire perimeter, which is 5-10 cm larger than the width of the curb. At the bottom of the trench, a sand cushion 6-8 cm thick is poured with careful compaction. Plates are installed on top of the pillow, which are aligned with each other and in a vertical position. To exclude their displacement during the work, fixation is provided with the help of pegs. To fix the limiter, the prepared trench is filled with concrete mortar.

Foundation preparation

Paving slabs are laid on a prepared base - a pillow. Its main tasks are to level the surface and prevent subsidence of individual elements. It is made of sand and gravel in several layers.

The first layer is sand 5-8 cm thick. The next layer is provided with crushed stone, and it is designed to redistribute loads over the entire area. Its thickness is 14-18 cm. Additional filling of crushed stone with sand allows you to get rid of voids. If in the first layer of the pillow, the quality of the sand is not presented special requirements, then the outer layer is formed from fine sand. After that, the entire surface is moistened and carefully compacted to create a flat area with the necessary slope. Finally, it is recommended to fix the pillow by pouring a thin layer of a mixture of sand and dry cement.

The laying of paving slabs is carried out without haste and in the direction "away from you", which is important to avoid violations flat surface pillows. The elements are laid down in a certain order corresponding to the selected scheme (drawing). A gap of 1.5-2.5 mm is left between them, and to form one of its widths, wedges made of wood or plastic are used throughout the site.

The tile is deepened into the sand layer by about half its thickness. Alignment along the plane is carried out using a mallet and wooden block. As it is laid, evenness is checked with a level. First, all solid elements lie on the pillow. At the final stage, cutting of the tiles is provided. To do this, it is applied to the installation site, where the cutting line is carefully marked. All elements are cut in fact.

The laying of paving slabs is completed by sealing the seams. Their shift at this stage is excluded by filling the gaps with a dry mixture of sand and cement powder. After filling, water is sprayed over the entire surface of the pavement, as a result of which the cement holds together individual elements between themselves. Before the solution is completely dry, the fixing wedges are removed. The procedure is carried out several times (3-4 times) - for better filling of the seams. Excess mass is removed without waiting for complete curing. At decorative design a pigment of the desired shade can be added to this mixture.

The durability of paths or paving slabs depends on the correct preparation of the working area and the laying of elements. Such work can be done with your own hands, but taking into account the recommendations of specialists. High-quality tile laying will provide practicality and a beautiful appearance that will delight the owner of the site for a long time.

Paving slabs - perfect option covering paths and grounds in front of a country house. It is characterized by increased wear resistance, practicality of operation, highly aesthetic appearance. Its installation is not a too complicated process, while laying paving slabs with your own hands requires compliance certain rules, which are described in our step-by-step instructions.

In our article, we will tell you how to properly lay out paving slabs with your own hands, what tools and materials you will need for this, and also give useful advice in video tutorials.

Main advantage self-assembly is the maximum reduction in the cost of the process. For any work you need to pay, and services of specialists today cost a lot. In addition, with self-laying, you can do everything without haste, following all the recommendations.

At the same time, it is quite difficult to find workers capable of laying the slab with high quality and correctly. The desire of any team is to complete the order quickly in order to receive payment, quality often suffers from this. With self-laying, the owner will be able to take into account all the features of his site, because only he knows the weaknesses well.

It is unlikely that a team of hired workers will take these nuances into account so carefully, unless they demand sky-high pay for their work.

The disadvantage of self-assembly is the need for a thorough study of the rules, additional costs for the purchase of a special tool for work.

Main types and selection rules

The composition of the paving slab is a cement mixture with the addition of various dyes, mineral components, plasticizers. Use of raw materials High Quality guarantees compliance with GOST, therefore, the durability of the coating.

Proper dosage, adherence to technology - quality assurance, therefore, it is worth purchasing material from trusted manufacturers, not chasing the cheapness of handicraft production.

It is advisable to give preference to the option that has additives of granite chips, polymers, high-quality clay. It is better to refuse the option consisting exclusively of a concrete-sand mixture, since it will not last long.

Modern manufacturers offer the consumer There are two main types of paving slabs:

It has most often a rectangular, square or diamond shape, uniform colors.
Manufactured manually, so it differs more colors, the maximum variety of forms.

When choosing, the quality of the base is taken into account, functional purpose coverage areas. Experts advise choosing material small sizes because it is more resistant to cracking. It is important to consider the thickness of the blocks. The minimum is three centimeters, for parking and car passages - at least 5-6 centimeters.

The color and shape are selected in harmony with the decoration of the building of the house. considering your own preferences. The installation of a diamond-shaped and rectangular slab is more complicated, it requires the use of some work skills. It is easier to lay the curly one, because the flaws are less noticeable.

IMPORTANT. When choosing a stove, one should take into account its environmental friendliness, since heating the surface in summer will cause emission harmful substances which will adversely affect the health of the family.

Each plate is carefully examined, its quality is evaluated. It is worth refusing to purchase material that has the following disadvantages:

Inhomogeneous structure of the outer side.
Too bright color.
Uneven coloration.
Spots dark color on the other side.
Clots of material in the structure.
Smooth, high gloss surface.

ADVICE. By knocking two copies against each other, you can determine their quality: a dull sound indicates the fragility of the material. A high-quality plate should be sonorous.

We will tell on the pages of our site everything about! You will learn many useful tips and recommendations.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, you need to purchase tiles, expendable materials, tools.

How to calculate the amount of material needed

The calculation method depends on the drawing that is supposed to be posted. Complex compositions require a special approach and specific recommendations. The quantity is calculated based on the selected pattern, after drawing up a preliminary sketch plan of the entire site.

If selected simple shapes worth remembering school course geometry and calculate the area of a particular geometric figure, which is a site or its individual parts.

The area of all parts that need to be covered will be taken as a basis. Number of tiles per one square meter manufacturer indicated on the packaging, therefore, by simple mathematical operations, it is calculated required amount purchased kits.

Experts advise to purchase material with a margin one square meter for each part of the surface to be covered. This is necessary so that there are fewer joints in non-right angles.

REFERENCE. There are special online calculators, automatically calculating the number of tiles after entering parameters (lot area, block size). Using it, they make accurate calculations.

Additional border available, which is set to prevent blocks from moving around the edge. Its quantity is calculated according to the length of the perimeter of the covered area.

When purchasing material and planning the size of the coating, you need to try to make calculations in such a way that there is no need to lay cut copies around the edges. The fewer cut pieces will be in the coating, the more aesthetically pleasing it will look.

What you need

Do-it-yourself installation of paving slabs requires using special tools:

Rammer
Roulette.
Rubber mallet.
Line or cord for marking.
Rule.
Level.
Bulgarian with discs for concrete.
Master OK.
Rake.
Broom.

In addition to tools, consumables are purchased:

Sand (on standard plot 2-3 tons).
Cement.

Foundation preparation

Careful preparation of the base is the key quality styling. After making a plan, marking is carried out using pegs with a thread stretched over them. The quality of the soil of various parts is preliminarily assessed, the sides of the slope are clarified. If it is located towards the house and yard buildings, a drainage system is preliminarily thought out.

Sites are carefully leveled., the soil is removed with a height of 15-20 centimeters. Then the surface is compacted. At the same time, drainage and sewer pipes are being installed.

After leveling and tamping crushed stone pillow is poured. For do-it-yourself garden paths made of paving slabs, the thickness of the layer is 10-15 centimeters, for parking lots and the roadway, the thickness of the crushed stone is doubled.

The pillow is rammed by a special machine, is covered with geotextile, which will prevent the penetration of sand between the rubble. In areas with weak, loose soil, geotextiles are additionally placed under crushed stone.

The prepared pillow is poured with a cement-sand mixture (1X5), sand is poured on top of such a height that, before tamping, the plates are 1 cm above the surface.

ADVICE. To prepare the base, it is advisable to use guides from boards along the height of the pillow. Particularly careful preparation requires a foundation in the event that the site has soft soil. It is rammed after moisturizing.

The whole further process will depend on the quality of the preparation of the base.

Important to avoid mistakes! If you want to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands, watch the video of a person who decided to lay it wrong:

Safety

The organization of work requires compliance with safety measures:

The workplace is freed from foreign objects.
If the slab is laid on a concrete base, the notches are made with goggles.
All work is carried out in rubber gloves so that the skin is not injured and corroded by the cement mortar.
The sorting of the material and the processing of the edge of the tile is carried out in tight mittens.
Knee pads are used to protect the legs.

On our site you will also find out! How to work with such surface paving elements?

About the features of laying porcelain stoneware and how to properly prepare the base for this material - read.

You will learn how to make steps from paving slabs with your own hands by reading our next material:

How to lay correctly: technology and work procedure

After preparing the base for laying tiles with your own hands, the following steps are necessary:

Pull the cord along the edges of the tracks and platforms with the help of stakes.
Install curbs along the borders, digging them into the soil to the desired height. For greater stability, the curb is fixed with cement mortar.
Arrange drainage for the outflow of water. The pipe is wrapped with geotextile, placed in a prepared trench next to the curb.
Further, starting from the curb, begin to lay the slabs. Rows can be arranged diagonally or in a straight line. The rows are laid away from themselves so that the prepared base does not collapse when the workers move along it. The laid paths must be strictly parallel to the stretched cords.
For the uniformity of the gaps between the tiles, special crosses are used.
The slab is laid on a sand cushion, tapped on top with a hammer for a snug fit to the surface. If a distortion of some specimens is noticeable, the blocks are lifted, a cement-sand mixture is poured under them for leveling. The building level is used to control the horizontal.
If corners or obstacles are encountered along the laying path, they should be bypassed with whole specimens. Then the remaining places are filled with suitable fragments. The tile of the required shape for these purposes is cut using a grinder with a disc for concrete. These areas are filled as a last resort.
After laying all the rows on a continuous area, the seams between the tiles are covered with a mixture of sand and cement. Excess that did not wake up in the cracks must be brushed off with a broom.
After all gaps are filled sand-cement mixture, the surface is watered with water from a hose so that the blocks are fixed together. It is imperative to put a diffuser on the hose so that the jet of water does not knock out the filling mixture.

Process proper styling You can watch paving slabs with your own hands in this installation video tutorial:

Another useful video tutorial on how to properly lay paving slabs with your own hands - what you need for this and how to lay it correctly:

IMPORTANT. When laying each section at the end of the day, it is covered with a sand-cement mixture and thoroughly swept. If this is not done, moisture that accidentally enters can spoil the appearance of the coating even before the end of all work.

Coating care

For durability of a covering and preservation of its beautiful appearance you must follow the rules for caring for him:

Actually, this simple process, with which you can completely cope on your own, but you should not rush. The work requires thoroughness, painstaking work, it is better to do the work slowly, carefully following the recommendations of specialists.

Submit an application

Leave your phone and the manager will contact you

What is needed for laying paving slabs, where to start the work?

Laying paving slabs consists of the following steps:

, calculation of the amount of raw materials needed.
Site preparation.
Border marking.
Determination of slopes for the removal of rain and melt water.
The device of the underlying layers.
The styling itself.

Let's consider each item in detail.

When choosing curly paving elements, be guided not only by your aesthetic views and financial opportunities, but also necessarily on the technical requirements for the operating conditions of various areas.

If you are equipping the veranda of a private house, 3 cm thick tiles are enough. When a passenger vehicle arrives, paving slabs are used for paving - no thinner than 4.5-5 cm, trucks - 6-10 cm (depending on traffic intensity).

When determining the amount of material, consider the following points: if the site is close to a rectangle, it is enough to add 3-4% to the total volume of the FEM; in the case of curvilinear - 5-7%. This is due to the fact that part of the material will go to waste when trimmed, something may break during delivery and unloading.

It is advisable to leave a few squares in stock, because if in a few years there is a question of repairing the coating, this type of tile may not be on sale. The amount of waste also depends on the laying method: there are more of them with a diagonal than with a parallel one.

The volume of bulk materials required can only be calculated approximately: multiply the total area by the thickness of the bedding, taking into account a compaction factor of 1.4. ZIL includes about 3-3.5 m3 by weight of 5-6 tons, KAMAZ - 6 m3 or 12 tons. To limit paving slabs, a curb (park curb) or a road curb is needed. These elements can be different sizes and are applied depending on the purpose of the site.

Be sure to ask suppliers for quality certificates and sanitary and epidemiological conclusions for purchased building materials. The responsible manufacturer and seller will always provide you with the originals of these documents.

Site preparation for installation

Proper preparation for laying paving slabs is a guarantee of the durability of the completed paving. Before starting work, be sure to check the opening of doors and gates, check into the garage, and the height of the porch. Keep in mind that the completed coating will add at least 10 cm.

It may be necessary to excavate or fill up to required level. Excavation is also mandatory if there is fresh soil on the site - subsidence of the FEM cannot be avoided. It is better to fill up to the required level with crushed stone; soil cannot be used for these purposes. If your site has an old compacted base and the height allows, you can not do a recess.

Customers often have a question: is it necessary to remove the old asphalt or concrete pavement. You may not remove it, but keep in mind that the old coating will retain moisture and prevent the tiles from drying out quickly after rain, this can lead to mold and moss growth.

If for some reason you do not dismantle the old coating, provide drainage by punching holes with a perforator or jackhammer at the rate of 4-5 pcs. per 1 m2.

markup

The layout of the territory must be thought out in advance: measure the dimensions of the site, the size of the buildings, the distances between the main points, taking into account large plants, and draw up a plan.

Everything is transferred to the terrain with the help of pegs and a cord. On straight sections, you need to hammer pegs in the corners, on curved sections - around the perimeter. Stepping back from the surface of the earth 7-10 cm, a cord is pulled to mark the boundaries.

Determination of slopes for the removal of rain and melt water

It is very important to properly organize slopes for water flow - from buildings and structures to the lawn, to drainage or drainage wells. The slope can be transverse, longitudinal or combined and be at least 5% (5 mm per 1 m).

Under no circumstances should water be allowed into the domestic sewer system- it is prohibited by law.

For large areas it is better to use a level, but most often the stackers use a hydraulic level or a regular level in combination with a cord-order.

The device of the underlying layers

For the device of the underlying layer, crushed stone is used, granite sifting, granulated slag, carving (dry mixture of cement and sand at the rate of 1:8). The type of base depends on the operating conditions, the thickness of the plates and is determined by the design of the work. All layers must be carefully compacted and watered.

Consider three options for preparing the base for compacted soil:

Intensive traffic of freight transport: crushed stone fraction 20-40 mm, thickness 10-20 cm, concrete pouring 10 cm with reinforcing mesh without a binder, the tiles are laid on a mortar grade M150 (cement and sand 1: 3).
Passenger transport: crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 mm 10 cm thick, carving or granulated slag - 5-7 cm.
Without the arrival of transport - a layer of carving or granulated slag 5-7 cm.

Gartsovka is best prepared directly on the construction site in a concrete mixer based on one work shift; over time, its quality, especially in wet weather, deteriorates.

Laying on clean sand is not recommended, as it will be necessary to take additional measures to prevent it from being washed out from under the tile: completely coat all the connections of the FEM with a solution, especially from the inside, organize them installed on concrete. These measures will lead to an additional rise in the cost of laying paving slabs, although the sand itself is cheaper than other loose ones.

Learn from this video even more about the technique of preparing the base for laying paving slabs, and how the step-by-step process takes place:

FEM paving technique - the order of work performed

For the production of work on laying paving slabs, the following are necessary:

rubber or wooden mallet (special hammer);
rammer (it is better, more reliable and faster to use mechanical gasoline or electric, but on small areas you can do it manually);
pegs;
cord;
Master OK;
level;
rule;
mop or rake;
hard brush.

There are many ways to lay FEM, they are divided by color (single-color and multi-color) and by the location between tile joint(clearly directed, radial and chaotic).
There are basic rules and.
Paving slabs are laid on a carefully leveled underlying layer and rammed with a mallet. The correct laying is controlled by the level.

To limit the site, it is necessary or a curb. To install it, a cord is pulled, a trench is dug along it. Sand is poured on its bottom and rammed. After that, the side stone is installed on concrete.

You should pay attention to the symmetry, the correct laying of tiles in the central places of your site - the gate, the entrance to the house, the view from the window.

Before laying the FEM around the house or garage (especially if there is a basement), it is necessary to carry out a blind area with a set of waterproofing works, since water will seep through the seams of paving slabs and enter the basement. Tiles can be laid on top of the blind area, and the entire area will look like a single canvas.

Dry sand is scattered over the surface of the laid FEM and carefully distributed into the tile joints. It is advisable to do this procedure several times, combined with watering from a hose or watering can, in order to fill the cracks with sand.

In this video tutorial, learn step-by-step instructions on the technology of laying paving slabs - how to properly install it:

Be sure to inspect the entire surface for concrete or mortar ingress - in a few days it will simply be impossible. Backfill curb stone, remove all the garbage - and now you are the happy owner of a new yard, gazebo or parking lot.