Every master who started an independent construction project understands that doing a roof with his own hands step by step is a difficult task, but still doable. In the material below, we will try to understand all the intricacies of the work and understand what the phased construction of a gable type roof looks like.
Important: in order for the assembly of the roof of a private house to be as accurate as possible, and all the material to be purchased for it with a small margin, it is better to involve professionals in the design of the roof. At the design stages, they will calculate the slope of the roof slopes and the amount of building material needed for it, including steam and heat insulation, as well as roofing material, and will give you a finished roof project.
To understand what a roof in a private house will look like with your own hands, you need to understand what types of roofs exist in general. Based on this, choose the type of construction.
Important: however, when designing a roof, it is always worth considering the wind and sedimentary (rain, snow) load on the ceiling, as well as the weight of the roofing material.
So, today most often they mount such roofs of a private house with their own hands:
- Shed. Roof sloped to one side. This is the simplest option for roofing, but it is not the most reliable for a private house, since a high load is placed on such a structure when removing precipitation. Basically, such a roof is mounted on auxiliary premises (verandas, extensions, sheds, etc.).
- Double roof. A very simple and at the same time reliable option for covering the roof of a house. Two slopes evenly distribute the load on the truss system when removing water and snow.
- Hip (four-pitched roof). It is a little more difficult, but at the same time it is an equally convenient option for overlapping. In most cases, the hip roof has four sides, two of which are made in the form of a trapezoid, and two - in the form of a triangle.
- Broken roof. As a rule, this is a gable roof with creases on both sides. Such an overlap is convenient in that it is possible to arrange an additional attic living space under it, thereby increasing the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe house, especially if it has one floor.
- Multi-gable roof. The most complex design. It is used over a large box of a private house with a complex configuration.
Important: it is worth remembering that the step-by-step construction of a roof for a house will be the more difficult, the more complex the configuration of the room. This is due to the fact that a complex structure requires a complex truss system.
Materials for work
Independent construction of the roof of a private house requires the preparation of the necessary tools and materials. In particular, you will need:
- Bar with a section of 100x100, 100x150, 150x150, 150x200 or 200x200 mm for Mauerlat. The cross section of the beam depends entirely on the width of the masonry of the house and on the design of the roof. In our case, when installing a standard gable roof, a beam of 100x150 mm will suffice.
- Boards with a section of 150x50 mm for rafters and crossbars. The cross section of the boards may be smaller if the load on the roof is low (depending on the roofing material). The calculation of the number of boards for rafters is done in such a way that rafters can be installed on one side of the roof in increments of 80-120 cm. That is, if the length of the wall of the house is 4 meters, then it will require 5 rafter boards with a spacing of 80 cm.
Video: how to make a roof correctly (step-by-step instructions for building a roof with your own hands).
Important: the installation step of the rafter legs depends on the weight of the future roofing material. The heavier it is, the smaller the pitch of the rafters should be.
- Beam with a section of 100x150 mm for racks in the roof frame.
- Hydro and vapor barrier for roofing pie.
- Boards and beams for crates.
- Electric jigsaw or grinder with wood discs.
- Brackets, angles, studs and self-tapping screws / bolts.
Important: below for a complete understanding of the work process, a detailed video is presented.
Work technique
Mauerlat device
Photo 1: 
To mount the roof of a private house strong and reliable, you need to take care of fastening the mauerlat - the wooden trim of the house, which serves as a transitional boundary from the stone to the wooden part of the building. Fix it in two ways:
- Bay reinforcing belt around the perimeter of the building and fixing the construction studs in it. The step of the studs should be from one to one and a half meters.
- Having embedded the fixing studs in the last rows of masonry at home.
Important: the height of the elevation of the studs above the wall should be equal to the height of the beam being laid plus 3 cm. Such a calculation is necessary in order to securely fix the Mauerlat with nuts and bolts.
Cutting and installing rafters
Photo 2: 
The rafter system for the roof is the most difficult part of the job. It is important not only to install the rafter legs, but also to cut them correctly. In the event of the slightest distortion, the entire roof frame will “walk”, which is not good for the roof. So, do-it-yourself roofing will be easier and faster to build if you cut out a pattern-rafter from one bar in advance and form all the rest on it.
To create a pattern, it is necessary to make an internal cut in the lower part of the rafter board at a right angle. This place she will rest against the Mauerlat. The cut is made not from the very edge of the board, but stepping back from it upwards of 50 cm. These will be roof overhangs that protect the walls of the house from rain. A cutout can be made according to a bar template or simply by drawing a right angle on the board.
Now it is necessary to cut off the top edge of the board in such a way that the rafter system of two parallel legs can be joined by cut edges without voids and gaps. To do this, you need to raise the board up, lean it on the Mauerlat and raise it to the desired slope angle. A vertical line must be drawn along the center of the floor to the rafters. This will be the cutting line of the board. That is, in the upper part of the rafter leg, we will get an oblique cut.
Photo 3: 
We assemble all the rafter legs cut according to the pattern on the ground, securely connecting them in the upper part (ridge) with brackets, ties and bolts.
Important: if the length of the rafter exceeds 3 meters, then it is desirable to additionally strengthen the system with crossbars - transverse beams that are mounted horizontally with respect to the triangle of rafters. The location of the crossbar should be in the first third of the upper part of the triangle.
Installation of the truss system begins with two extreme gables. They are installed, a control cord is pulled between them, and the entire skeleton of the roof is already leveled along it. All rafters are fixed to the Mauerlat with special corners and brackets.
Photo 4: 
Important: you can additionally strengthen the frame with special racks that support the crossbars. And the racks, in turn, should preferably be installed on the beds (special wide boards like skis, which will remove the point load of the racks on the floor).
Lathing device
In continuation of the topic “how to build a roof”, it is worth noting that the next step will be the installation of the crate and the construction roofing pie. As soon as the rafter system is ready, it is necessary to lay the crate, which will become the basis for all other materials of the pie - vapor and waterproofing, as well as insulation and roofing material.
Photo 5: 
The crate on the roof can be mounted from unedged boards with a section of 100x50 mm. In this case, the spacing of the boards depends entirely on the final roofing material. The heavier it is, the smaller the step of the crate should be. In general, the check of the crate is approximately 30 cm.
Important: it is advisable to pre-lay a layer of vapor barrier under the crate. It will protect the insulation from vapors penetrating from the premises of the house. Lathing boards are already laid on top of the vapor barrier.
Now, perpendicular to the wood of the crate, a beam is laid in increments equal to the width of the plates or rolls of insulation material. A heater is laid between them, reliably driving it into the existing grooves.
Photo 6: 
From above, everything is covered with a layer of waterproofing material and fixed with another perpendicular crate (in this case, horizontal). And already on it the final roofing material is mounted.
Photo 7: 
At the very end of the installation of the roof on a one-story house, it is also necessary to install a drain. It is made from plastic pipes cut along, or ready-made drain elements are bought in advance. Now it remains to sew up the gables of the roof with the selected material. It can be either wood or stone.
With the existing variety of roofing materials, roof installation, as a rule, takes place according to the same scheme, united by several basic rules.
The importance of a properly shaped roof structure
In order for the shape of the roof slopes to have the correct shape, it is necessary first to very carefully measure the diagonal of the box of the house, the length and width, the height of the building. Roofers usually face difficulties because the shape of the house does not have right angles, the box has an irregular shape, or the height of the walls of the house is different, or they can be tilted several centimeters beyond the allowable error. All errors, if possible, must be eliminated and taken into account in further work in order to be in a horizontal position, and the slopes in the same plane.
Then you can proceed to the device of the truss system: installing a bed and a mauerlat for inclined rafters, linings for hanging ones. All this must be done at the water level in a strictly horizontal position. The installed one must be checked for compliance with the same distance between the bed and the Mauerlat, check the diagonal distance, if necessary, correct the discrepancies found. At this stage of work, a lot of time can be spent, but it is worth remembering that the more accurately these works are performed, the faster and with the best result it will pass.
After installing the bed, they begin to fasten the racks, which must have the same size in height and be fixed strictly along the plumb line in the transverse and longitudinal directions, after which the run must be laid in them. After that, you can proceed to, which must be installed between the run and the bed of the wind struts.
Installation of rafters and battens
For the installation of rafters and battens, you will need some materials and a set of tools.
Necessary materials:
- rafter beam;
- board for Mauerlat, lying down;
- inch board or timber for crates;
- insulation;
- steam and waterproofing;
- staples, nails;
- antiseptic for wood processing, brush, roller.
Scheme of installation of the rafter system: A - the attachment point of the rafters to the Mauerlat, the attachment of the filly; B - a general view of correctly executed rafters; B - stretching and brace; G - correct fastening of the skate; D - fastening to the strut; E - rafters in the assembly.
Required tools:
- roulette;
- level, plumb line, cord, square;
- hacksaw, electric saw, jigsaw;
- hammer, nail puller, axe, wire cutters;
- safety belt and rope.
Rafters must be installed at the same distance from each other, it is called a step, and is calculated by dividing the length of the house by their number. For example, with a wall length of 8 meters and after m they will need 9 pieces on each side. The extreme roof rafters are installed according to the water level in relation to each other, and those that are between them along a stretched cord.
It is better to assemble a triangular circuit with it below on the ground, because such a structure is difficult to assemble in a vertical position, it is better to install them assembled. Thanks to the equally assembled shape of the roof trusses, set on a plumb line and precisely installed gaskets, strictly according to the level, the horizontal position of the structure is obtained without much effort.
The roof lathing can be solid, made of an inch board or a bar with a section of 50x50 mm, which is installed at the junctions of the roofing material. Depending on its length, the required amount of timber between the joints is calculated. The excess crate sticking out at the ends of the house is cut off at the same distance from the extreme rafters, leaving the edges to protrude 10 cm beyond them, forming a free overhang for roofing materials. On a continuous crate, you can lay out rolls of roofing material or a vapor-tight film.
Calculation and laying of roofing material
The calculation of the required amount of one or another type of material for the roofing device is carried out by measuring and calculating the area of the slopes, for example, with a length of 8 m and a width of 3 m, the slope area will be 24 m. Thus, given the overlap, you can set the exact number of sheets required for coverage roofs of the house. If you cover the roof with a profiled sheet 3 m long and 1 m 15 cm wide, then 8 such sheets will be needed.
Regardless of which roofing material is chosen, the order of its laying starts from the bottom up, as if towards the flow of water, in one direction of the marking applied to it. When laying asbestos-cement slate at the junction of its four corners, it is necessary to bite off the two lower covered corners, this is done so that in winter snow does not accumulate in the attic and in spring it does not flood the upper floor with melt water. Basically, roofing materials are fastened with nails or self-tapping screws, they are often painted to match the color of the coating and have a sealing gum.
After the completion of these works, a ridge is installed and connections are made around the pipes or a viewing window, if it is provided for by the roof structure. usually finished with siding or other chosen material. When carrying out work, one should not forget about safety, it is necessary to use a mounting belt and a special proven rope, you can knock down a walking ladder, which is easy to move along.
Taking into account all the technological features, it will serve without the cost of its repair and operation for many years. Work on its device is best entrusted to professionals who know all the subtleties.
Everyone who builds a private house wants to save a little. So the idea of \u200b\u200bmaking a roof with your own hands arises. And for this, it is necessary to correctly install the truss structure and lay the roofing material, and each of these stages has its own nuances.
Construction types
Today, roofing acts not only as a protection for your home, but also as its distinctive architectural feature. Depending on what kind of roof the house has, there is a general impression of the facade. For example, a mansard roof makes the look of the house more conservative, while an exploited flat roof is built over modern cottages in high-tech, modern, eco styles.
flat
Despite their apparent primitiveness, it is flat roofs that are the most difficult to build. They are not very popular with the Russian consumer, since they are associated mainly with Soviet-built high-rise buildings, but recently an increasing number of people appreciate the convenience and functionality.
There are operated and non-operated flat roofs. In the first case, the roof surface is used as an additional functional space. So, here you can set up a garden, put a playground, organize a gym or adapt it to a terrace. In the second case, a roof is just a roof.
It is worth noting that the device of an unexploited version is much simpler, so for self-erection it is worth choosing it.
Flat roofs heavily load the walls, so you should not choose this model if you live in a frame house. In addition, it is advisable to consult with a professional so that he draws up a project and makes all the calculations. From a financial point of view, even with the help of a specialist, the arrangement of a flat roof is much cheaper than any other.
The biggest problem is removing snow from such a roof. In this case, it will have to be periodically cleaned manually so that the snow load is not excessive for the structure. You will also need to organize a drain (the internal option is best suited for flat roofs). We must not forget that flat roof suitable for initially strong or additionally reinforced walls, otherwise the load-bearing walls may not withstand and crack.
Shed
Shed roofs are rarely chosen for full-fledged private houses. This is due to their small decorative qualities. Indeed, the shed design looks unfinished. Therefore, much more often you can see a shed roof over a private country house, an extension or a garage. If it is chosen for a cottage, then it is most likely made in a modern style.
The first and main advantage of a shed roof is its simplicity. Even a beginner can make a shed roof, starting with drawing up a drawing and ending with finishing. Complex calculations are not required here, you just need to know the basics of geometry. The shed roof can withstand both snow and wind loads well. It is only important to install it correctly. As with a flat roof, savings are achieved through the small amount of materials required.
Not to mention the difficulties with ventilation. There is almost no free space under a shed roof, so some difficulties may arise. It is practically impossible to make an attic under an ordinary shed roof, as well as to take at least some space under the attic. Most often, a shed roof is used as an unusual ceiling for the upper floor, which imposes additional obligations on its insulation and waterproofing.
The most popular are structures with multi-level shed roofing systems, which look much more unusual and futuristic, especially if the house itself is correctly integrated into the surrounding landscape and is made in modern stylistic directions.
gable
Gable structures can be found much more often than single-sided ones. This is due to their traditional appearance, which many residents associate with comfort and coziness. The construction of a simple symmetrical gable roof also does not take much time and effort and will be on the shoulder even for a beginner. However, financially, a gable roof is much more expensive than a single-pitched or flat roof.
You don’t have to take care of a gable roof: it will not be necessary to manually clean the snow from it, the maximum is to renew the paintwork from time to time. In favor of gable roofs, the fact that they equally distribute the load on the walls also speaks. In the case of, for example, a single-slope structure, more weight will fall on the “low” wall, and a dual-slope structure distributes the weight between two parallel walls. In this regard, it can be erected over houses from fragile, in a general sense, materials.
An example is a frame cottage.
Before construction, it will be necessary to draw up a scheme or project, so that in the future the rafter system can withstand the weight of the roofing material. By the way, the rafter belt is made on the ground and only then transported to the installation site. Therefore, not even the strongest person can make such a roof, but professional builders still advise doing a gable roof with a partner.
With preliminary calculations and proper preparation, the attic space under the roof can be turned into an attic, however, the decision to build an attic floor is best taken at the design stage of the building and the roof in particular, since a number of requirements are put forward for attics (especially residential).
hip
This type is one of the most popular. The four-slope design with two triangular and two trapezoidal slopes is comfortable, functional and beautiful. A big plus is that here you can organize a spacious attic - even after the roof is built. To do this, you will need to carry out some insulation and insulation work, but you will not need to disassemble the roof: everything can be done from the inside.
All hip roofs are able to withstand strong snow and wind loads. The structure has four stiffeners, each of which has approximately the same weight, which is why the structure acquires similar strength. There is another reason to choose a hip roof: with this type, you can make large cornice overhangs along the edges, which will protect the walls from rain or snow. Due to the fact that all overhangs are in the same plane, they are less destroyed, since they are all exposed to the same negative environmental factors.
An important advantage is also in the aesthetic side: a house with an attic under a hip roof looks more harmonious, not so elongated upwards.
The disadvantages include difficulties with the construction of a roof of this type, high cost. It will take not only impressive financial investments, but also a lot of time. It will not be possible to make such a roof alone - you will definitely need a whole team. If there is an attic under the roof, and the windows are located directly in the roof itself, then water can seep through them if the installation was not carried out completely correctly. The solution would be to cover the windows from the outside, but this is impractical.
Half hip
Half-hip roof began to be popular in our country not so long ago. In appearance, it is very similar to the classic hip, however, it has one difference, which is that the end slopes do not fall to the level of the Mauerlat, but remain slightly higher, as if opening part of the wall. As a result, windows can be made in a flat wall through which water will not seep through.
The most demanded are gable half-hip structures, however, four-slope ones can also be found. It should be borne in mind that it is impossible to make a four-slope half-hip one yourself: you will need the right plan, a project with all the calculations.
It takes special knowledge and skills to do this.
Half-hip roofs have all the same advantages as hip roofs. An additional advantage is the presence of walls in which you can make windows or arrange access to the balcony. Materials for construction will also require much less. However, the time spent on construction will increase markedly, since the construction of this type of roof is more complex.
When planning and designing, it is also necessary to take into account the type of roofing material, since it directly affects how rigid the truss system should be. In addition, it must be borne in mind that the truss system will have more components. The process of laying the finishing material will also become more complicated.
Shatrovaya
The hipped roof also belongs to the popular four-slope, but it has a significant difference from the hip and half-hip. Here, all four diagonals converge at one point, which is the peak of the roof. The design can be flat or high. It depends on climatic features: the direction and strength of the wind, the amount of snow and the like. Since the roof is similar in structure to a tent, it got its name precisely because of this.
An important advantage is the absence of the need for the construction of gables. Thus, a significant amount of building materials and time can be saved, thereby spending less money on construction. Another advantage is the low risk of leakage. Due to the pyramidal structure, precipitation easily rolls off the roof without lingering. On the other hand, this shape of the roof contributes to its uniform heating, so in the summer months you can use the attic or attic as a living space without worrying about additional heating. Finally, here you can not equip a drainage system, since the water from the roof drains without hitting the walls, thanks to the wide overhangs.
There are some nuances. So, it is quite difficult to design a hipped roof on your own, since this implies a special structure of the truss system. It is also not easy to build a truss frame with your own hands: there are many connections that must be highly reliable and rigid. Thus, the need to hire specialists leads to the fact that a large amount of financial resources will be spent on construction. It must be borne in mind the fact that there is a high risk of delamination of the finishing material (for example, tiles or slate).
conical
A cone-shaped roof is often referred to as a round roof because it is made up of many facets, making it appear from afar that the base is round rather than polygonal. For typical cottages, this type of roof is not typical. The conical structure can be found above mansions or castles, and also as part of a roofing composition with a bay window. The cone-shaped pattern gives the building an interesting fairy-tale look, distinguishing it from all other houses.
The positive qualities of the design include its seismic resistance. Thanks to the many stiffening ribs, as well as the rounded shape, such a roof will withstand any wind and snow loads, as well as earthquakes or other similar disasters.
Unfortunately, such roofs have more disadvantages than advantages. So, you cannot make a window in the roof itself. This is due to its shape, tapering upwards, as well as aesthetics: windows in a cone-shaped design do not look very attractive, spoiling the whole view. Another disadvantage is connected with this - the inability to organize an attic, because the insufficient level of illumination is a significant drawback. Materials for construction will require much more than for other roofs. It is not only about the rafters, but also about the finishing roofing material. The design and construction itself is quite complex, so you will need to hire specialists with the necessary knowledge.
Attic
This name generalizes several options for roof structures at once, however, an important factor is the presence of an attic space under the roof. This is not about an ordinary attic space, but about a full-fledged attic. It has a number of requirements, one of the main ones is the height of the ceilings. Here it should be at least 2.5 m. The ceiling may be lower, however, lowered ceilings should occupy up to 50% of the total space.
The mansard roof can be laid both at the planning stage and after construction is completed. Of particular interest are residential attic rooms, which can be organized far from under all roofs. So, it is problematic to place one under a single-pitched or double-pitched structure, but all four-pitched roofs involve converting the attic into an attic in the future.
It is worth bearing in mind that some roofs do not necessarily need to be insulated right away. Sometimes it is possible to insulate and waterproof the roof from the inside, when the need arises.
Windows are another highlight. If the attic was taken into account at the planning stage, then there may be built-in windows in the roof, lying in the same plane with it or specially attached, similar to birdhouses. It is undesirable to do without windows completely, therefore it is advised to make windows there when converting the attic into an attic.
Keep in mind that roof windows are several times more expensive than ordinary ones, since they, along with the roof, must prevent water and drafts from entering the attic.
Complex
The roof of a complex structure is the most interesting, but it is also problematic to build it yourself. This is due to technical difficulties: you need to correctly calculate the load on the rafters, on the Mauerlat. If the calculations are carried out incorrectly, then there is a high risk of collapse of the roof or cracking of the walls.
As a rule, complex roofs are built in order to expand the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe house: under such a structure, you can place a full-fledged attic room, or even two. In this case, the roof is insulated and prepared in advance so that in the future you do not have to deal with it from the inside. A complex roof is not easy to process without being completely disassembled, as there are many joints, joints, corners.
The advantages of complex roofs include their attractive appearance. It is always possible to design a structure so that it is fully consistent with the surrounding landscape. Among the shortcomings in the first place is complexity. It is almost impossible to make such a roof on your own, so you will have to hire a team of professionals. In addition, an impressive amount of materials will be required both for the construction of the truss system and in order to cover the roof.
All the variety of types of roofs will allow you to choose the option that is ideal for your cottage or home. You need to calculate your budget and strength in advance, as well as pay attention to the environment - not every house will fit harmoniously. For example, a flat roof requires a modern landscape around, while a conical one requires as traditional as possible.
Preparation and tools
At the first stage, it is necessary to carry out all the preparatory work, prepare all the necessary materials and tools. The list can be called standard. So, you will need mastic and sealant, end and cornice strips, a construction knife, a trowel, a hammer and a roofing mop. All these tools are suitable for laying a soft roof, because it is this type that can be mounted alone.
First you need to strengthen the existing truss system. If you do it yourself, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the design features of the form you have chosen. In the vast majority of cases, the truss frame is assembled on the ground, after which it moves up and is attached to the Mauerlat. For strengthening, you can use plywood, OSB-boards or tongue-and-groove boards. Please note that plywood is not suitable if the attic or attic is residential, since the material is highly flammable and releases toxic substances when heated.
It is better not to work in winter. If it turned out that the installation is carried out in the winter, then do not forget to leave expansion gaps of 3–5 mm between the seams so that the layers do not deform during expansion. In addition, you need to thoroughly treat all wooden parts with an antiseptic to prevent the appearance of microorganisms or mold fungi .
Such processing will significantly delay the possible rotting of the rafters, especially if you do not do the waterproofing correctly.
To build a truly high-quality roof, you need to follow some recommendations:
- When transporting materials intended for roofing, make sure that they do not bend, do not deform. This is especially true for easily bending options, such as corrugated board.
- If possible refuse mechanical loading, since rigid slings are capable of deforming some materials. Use soft slings or the manual method.
- Don't forget about drainage. It is necessary to decide in advance whether the internal drain will be designed or external. The design of the roof directly depends on this. For example, choosing a flat option, you need to make a small slope to the outer edges with an open gutter system or a small depression in the center with internal water drainage.
- When working with each of the finishing materials its specificity must be taken into account. For example, metal tiles or corrugated boards are attached to the roof with dowels in places where the wave deflects, while soft materials can be attached anywhere.
- All laying work is done from top to bottom. This applies to both the reinforcing layer and the finish. It is necessary to attach one sheet at a time, they are also transported up one by one.
- Finishing the ridge is done last. The material here must be overlapped to avoid moisture penetration in the future. It is the ridge connections that are the most vulnerable place for water.
Sequence of work
It should be remembered that everything starts with design. It is the plan that is the fundamental condition that allows you to rebuild a truly high-quality and beautiful roof in the future. So, it is necessary to clarify the dimensions of the roof, its height, the presence of windows, as well as the orientation of the roof. Remember that the orientation in relation to the cardinal points is chosen depending on the prevailing wind direction. The project must be drawn up according to all the rules, so that in the future you can avoid unpleasant surprises in the process of both construction and operation.
If necessary, before starting work, it is necessary to install a reinforcing belt. It will slightly strengthen the walls and Mauerlat, thereby removing part of the load from them, and it will be possible to choose a heavier roof.
Reinforcement is relevant for not the most durable houses, for example, frame houses.
Check and process all available materials and tools. If something is missing, it is much easier to add to the list at the preparation stage than after the work itself has begun. Check materials for integrity and suitability. If there is any doubt about the quality, it is best to replace the part. How warm and comfortable it will be in the house largely depends on the reliability and tightness of the roof, so it is important that everything is of good quality.
After all the preparations are completed, you can proceed directly to the construction. Step by step instructions are given below.
Erection: technology
The easiest to build is a gable design. It is more often than others made by hand, without resorting to the help of professional craftsmen, so it makes sense to consider it.
Rafters can be hanging or layered. In the first case, the rafters rest against the side walls, as if serving as spacers, as a result of which the impact is enhanced. To relieve the load, the rafters are additionally interconnected by an additional beam, called a puff. This helps reduce stress.
The layered version assumes the presence of a load-bearing wall in the middle. Above it, another overlap is created, to which the side slopes lean. It turns out that the load is distributed evenly between all three walls. However, the most common case is a combined case, when part of the structure is layered, and part is hanging.
Please note that the rafter system is completely assembled on the ground, and only then it is installed in its rightful place. The rafters are attached to the Mauerlat, securely fixed (usually with metal brackets). First, the extreme elements are attached, and then the intermediate ones. After the main elements (legs) are securely installed, you can attach everything else.
Protective layers: laying order
The lining layer must be made in full accordance with the specified sequence. Failure to comply with the order leads to the fact that the roof will leak, let in heat and drafts, and the rafters will rot.
- Under the rafters there must be a high-quality vapor barrier. An ordinary vapor barrier film is suitable, which will not allow condensate to fall on the insulation and wooden parts.
- Next fit directly rafters.
- Next, put a heater. Please note that it is much more convenient to work with insulation in slabs, since it can simply be laid between the rafters without fixing it, and it will hold securely. Consider also the use of foam insulation, which is the best in terms of its heat-retaining properties.
- A layer of waterproofing is placed on the insulation. Experts recommend using a new material - a waterproofing membrane. It will protect against moisture, while not retaining the condensate formed due to the collision of hot and cold air. The membrane is attached to the rafters with battens.
- Lay on top of the lathing roofing material.
Please note that with self-assembly, the need to use high-quality materials increases many times over, so that in which case it is possible to level the consequences of minor errors. As for the insulation, pay attention to mineral wool, but do not use glass wool if a living room is planned under the roof.
Finish coat
A huge variety of materials can be used as a finishing roofing. Today, there are many forms and types: some are suitable for warm climates, others for more severe ones; some can be mounted manually, for others you will definitely need to use special equipment. However, each of the popular options has its own individual advantages and disadvantages.
All materials for roofing are divided into two large types: soft and hard. In the first case, they are easy to bend, adjusting to the desired shape. In the second case, the material is made in the form of panels, which are subsequently lifted one by one and mounted on the roof in their original form. Both of them can be cut, only for soft materials they use a construction knife, and for hard ones - a hacksaw.
Before you cover the roof, you need to decide which type is most suitable for you. Keep in mind that when working alone it is best to use soft varieties, while pair or team work allows you to easily transport large panels to the top without damaging them. In both the first and second cases, it is better to prefer machine transportation: there is less risk of accidentally damaging the sheet, dropping it, or splitting it. We remind you once again that it is better to choose soft cables, as they will not press on the roof slabs and will not scratch them.
Types of roofing materials
As mentioned above, roofing materials are divided into two broad categories. The most common is shingles, which are soft materials. A big plus of this option is that it is suitable for all types of roofs, including even complex and cone-shaped ones. When laying, you will not need any professional tools - you can get by with the set of tools that every owner has.
With regard to performance, soft bituminous tiles have established themselves as a reliable material that can withstand pressure drops, exposure to precipitation and sunlight, and also has excellent decorative properties.
Slate is popular among sheet materials. Despite the fact that it is fragile and easily cracks under strong impacts, it withstands environmental influences perfectly. It is also important that slate is quite inexpensive, so it is chosen when building country houses or with a limited budget. It should be borne in mind that the heat and sound insulation qualities of slate leave much to be desired, therefore, if possible, for a house in which they will live year-round, it is better to choose a more modern analogue.
Finally, the most worthy and at the same time expensive material is a metal tile. She greatly wins against the background of others in terms of aesthetic indicators. Such a roof will look expensive and presentable, while the material will not lose its properties for many years. A metal tile can last about fifteen years, while maintaining its original appearance. Unfortunately, there is one drawback here - poor sound insulation, so it is advisable to take care of this additionally.
Mounting methods
It would seem that the finish coating can only be attached with dowels or self-tapping screws, but in reality it turns out that these methods have to be abandoned. This is especially true for soft roofs. So, soft roofing materials are usually fastened by the fusing method, also called the hot method. This approach ensures complete tightness, but many problems arise in the process.
For example, environmental conditions are a common cause of poor attachment: it may be too humid, too hot, or too windy. It is also important what characteristics the roofing material itself has.
To ensure the maximum quality of work, they are carried out mechanically.
When choosing a screw fastening, care must be taken to guarantee tightness at the puncture points. To do this, use specialized grout. Some particularly resourceful owners choose mounting foam, but professionals strongly do not recommend sticking to this method, since the foam is absolutely not intended for this, and the roof will leak soon.
Regardless of which method you choose, pay attention to the uniformity of fixing materials: with the hot method, the seams should be even and beautiful, and when using screws, each of them must be carefully sealed. Such precautions will save you from an early repair.
Decking
The professional flooring is sheet material. With its wavy structure, it looks like slate, but this is where all the similarities end. The professional flooring belongs to metal materials. The sheet is fully processed, pasted over with a variety of layers that prevent the occurrence of corrosion.
For roofing, special corrugated sheets are used, which are a modern analogue of iron roofs so popular in the past. Separately, it should be noted that corrugated board is ideal for pitched roofs, but for complex round structures it is undesirable to use it.
The material has both its advantages and disadvantages, which should be discussed in more detail. It should be noted in advance that there are many more advantages.
Advantages and disadvantages
The main reason why many choose corrugated board is its cost. It is quite low in comparison with analogues, however, corrugated board is not inferior in terms of operational properties. Another plus is the abundance of color solutions: in the product line you can find almost any shade. The most popular are brown, dark green, burgundy, gray. The corrugated roof does not burn, does not emit toxic substances into the atmosphere, which is why it is considered environmentally friendly. The service life is also impressive: such a roof can last up to 50 years, depending on the class of the material.
As for the shortcomings, they are few. Many are alarmed by the simplicity of the material: it does not seem particularly interesting.
Another drawback is poor sound insulation: rain drumming on such a roof will spread like thunder throughout the house - you will need to spend additional funds on insulation and soundproofing work.
Characteristics and features
The arrangement of the roof of corrugated board takes very little time and effort. No wonder this material is considered one of the easiest to install. To carry out the installation correctly, you need to remember some of the nuances:
- It is best to select sheets of corrugated board that fully match the size of the roof slope. Then it will be possible to close it without resorting to joining elements.
- If it was not possible to select panels according to the size of the slope, they resort to joining short elements: the sheets are overlapped by 15–20 cm, fastening them with self-tapping screws at each such joint. Silicone sealant is suitable for insulation.
The roof is an element of the roof. It consists of a base and a cover. Roof installation is necessary to protect the house from atmospheric precipitation and mechanical influences.
Roof structure
Any roof structure includes the following elements:
- slope;
- skate;
- intersections of slopes (valleys and grooves);
- overhang on cornices and gables;
- drainage system.
The roof consists of a base (sheathing or solid flooring) and a covering (natural materials, polymer, bitumen, sheet metal). It is a complex system that is assembled in several stages and according to certain rules.
Roofing material must meet the following requirements:
- Waterproof.
- Weather resistance.
- Corrosion resistance.
- Beautiful appearance.
- Durability.
The most common coatings are metal tiles and sheet steel.
Installation of a roof from a metal tile. Instruction
The roof is mounted on a truss system. The size of the slope is taken as the basis, under which the dimensions of the sheets are adjusted. They can be standard or custom made. The optimal dimensions of the sheets are 4-4.5 m. They are convenient to mount and will not tear off the self-tapping screws during temperature deformations. The working width of the sheets is taken 8-12 cm less (taking into account the overlap). The vertical margin is 15 cm.
Laying waterproofing
The roof does not allow precipitation to enter the house and the truss system, but moisture constantly condenses under it, from which protection is also needed. When it evaporates, metal corrodes, and wooden structures begin to rot. Therefore, under the roof you need waterproofing and ventilation. In order for the space to be blown from below with air, gaps are made from below and above at the rate of 1/100 of the area of the entire roof.
The film is rolled out horizontally, from bottom to top, with an overlap of 15 cm on a wooden base. It is fastened with a construction stapler. Do not confuse the top and bottom sides of the film. Waterproofing can be made profiled to improve ventilation and ensure that water flows down.
If thermal insulation is used, then to prevent its saturation with moisture, ventilation is made double-circuit, with gaps of the order of 50 mm.
How to mount the crate
Under the metal tile, a board 32x100 mm is used. The initial purlin, passing at the very bottom, is set thicker than the others by the height of the wave. The step depends on the type of metal tile, since its profile may differ. Docking of boards is made on rafters. For greater rigidity of the system, the joints should be alternated.
Boards are nailed on top of the entire length of the ridge, on both sides of the roof. Under the joints of the slopes (valley), near the chimneys, a solid base is made.
The crate is taken out to the length of the gable overhangs (about 50 cm). A bar is nailed to them from below - from the eaves to the ridge. An end plate is installed on it, which is connected to the rafters with bars. They hold the filing of the gable overhang.
Frontal boards are nailed to the lower edges of the rafters. Before installing the coating, install the eaves and brackets in increments of 50-60 cm. The roofing material is laid with a ledge from which water must drain into the drain gutter.
Laying metal tiles
A capillary groove is made on the sheets so that moisture does not seep into the vertical overlap zones. The installation of a roof made of metal tiles is carried out so that the groove is inside the wave. Laying sheets start from the side where they do not need to be cut. The methods may be different, but there are the following general rules for all:
- self-tapping screws are screwed into wave deflections, where the sheets fit snugly against the crate;
- near the end board, the metal tile is attached to each transverse profile;
- vertical overlap is connected by self-tapping screws at the wave recession;
- sheets are attracted to each purlin.
Laying in several rows is done ta6
- From right to left, the 1st sheet is laid, aligning along the end and cornice.
- The next one is applied on top and temporarily fixed in the center from above.
- The sheets are leveled and fastened together with self-tapping screws.
- Similarly, the entire row is laid out, and then the final fixing of the metal tile is made.
Single-row laying is carried out from the eaves to the ridge.
Complex connections
For marking in the valleys, a hinged "parallelogram" of boards is used. A metal tile for cutting is laid on a coated roof. One vertical board should be located in the valley, and parallel to it - on a loose sheet. A line is drawn along it, along which cropping is done. Coatings on oblique ridges are prepared similarly.
The joints of the slopes are made in a similar way. The lower valleys are laid from below, and on them - a metal tile. Upper valleys are placed on top. A porous water-repellent sealant is placed under them so that moisture does not seep from the outside.
The chimney is closed with junction strips, matched in color to the metal tile. With the upper part they are wound into a strobe, sawn by a grinder in the laying of the pipe, and with the lower part - to the crate. From the inside, waterproofing is glued to the chimney with adhesive tape and wrapped with Ecobit film. The outer "apron" performs a decorative function and is laid around the pipe.
After the installation of the roof, the instruction provides for its grounding in case lightning does not strike the lightning rod, but the roof of the house.
How much does a cover installation cost?
The cost of installing a roof by specialists is high, but the quality will be much higher than doing it yourself. Especially the services of professionals should be used for finishing exits through the roof and, if necessary, the use of special tools.
Prices for roof installation are always overpriced and amount to 2.5-3 thousand rubles / m 2. When concluding a contract, it is advisable to discuss each operation to the smallest detail. Then the cost can be reduced to 1.8-2 thousand rubles / m 2.
Roof sheets are connected with folds. The main materials are steel, aluminum, copper. The copper coating looks especially beautiful.
Roof elements are called paintings. The edges of the strips along the slope are made standing, and the horizontal ones are recumbent. Folding devices can be manual or electromechanical.
Benefits of seam roofing:
- surface evenness, facilitating the removal of precipitation;
- ease of construction;
- plasticity of the material, which allows creating a complex shape of the coating;
- ease of roof repair.
The disadvantages include the ease of plastic deformation and the need for a special tool for rolling seams. Some designs are self-latching, where the edges are joined by a simple push. The cover can be removed in the same way.
Seam roofing is used with a slope of at least 14º. At smaller angles of inclination (from 7º), only a double seam connection with silicone sealant is allowed.
The base is made solid or in the form of a crate. The roof should not be allowed to sag. In areas where the coating is adjacent to pipes, walls and eaves, the base must be made solid. The roof can be mounted directly on the insulation layer.
Waterproofing is done in the same way as when laying metal tiles. It is laid on top of the rafters and fixed with a stapler, placing gaskets under the brackets to increase the strength of the connection. To create a uniform ventilation gap, the film is supported by rails, and the overlap is fixed on a solid base.
Traditionally, roofing is done in the following way.
- According to the drawing, blanks are cut out of sheet metal and the edges are bent.
- The paintings are stacked on the roof and connected to each other.
- The coating is fastened to the crate with clamps, which enter the fold at one end.
- All exits to the roof are covered with aprons.
Roll material spreads over the entire length of the roof. This roof installation technology has the advantage that horizontal connections are not required. As a result, the roof is more airtight.
Conclusion
When building a roof, certain skills are required, especially when Installation is done, instructions for it, the availability of all tools and components - this is not all that determines the quality of the roof. Each production has its own technological features that accumulate with experience, and you need to know them.
Do-it-yourself roof installation is always a problem, especially in terms of tightness. Many from precipitation even if they are built by specialists. Therefore, you should carefully weigh your options so that you do not have to redo the coating again.
If you do the work yourself, without resorting to the services of professionals, you can use better and more expensive materials that increase the reliability of the roof. It is advisable to pre-practice on the construction of the roof of less critical objects, such as a barn.
Experts assure that the construction of the roof of the house is the most difficult stage in the construction of the building. In this article, we will consider how the main elements of the roof structure fit together. Because the quality of the end result depends on it. Having understood the information received, you will understand what and why the masters do when installing the roof and will be able to ask the right questions when discussing the type of construction and the sequence of work.
A variety of roof structures is just a change in the complexity of assembly. Because there are very simple roofs, for example, shed roofs, which are not only easy to build, but also cheap in terms of the amount of materials used. In this regard, hip structures are many times more complicated. This means that more time is spent on their construction, and the consumption of building materials exceeds several times.
We will not go into the details of the variety of roofing structures. Let's just point out what they are. The photo below shows them in full.
The main elements of the roof structure
We must immediately make a reservation that not all roofs contain the elements that we list below. But since in general there is a conversation about the technology of building a roof, then everything must be designated. In this case, we indicate the dimensional parameters of the elements. They can vary depending on the applied loads. But for average roofs, standard sizes are also suitable.
Mauerlat- a bar on which the rafter legs rest. Its purpose is to distribute evenly along the walls the loads emanating from the roof structure. The optimal section of the Mauerlat is 150x150 mm.
ridge beam. This is a run, located in the uppermost part of the roof, on which the rafters abut with their upper ends. More often, a board with a thickness of 50 mm and a width of 200 mm is used for this.
Racks that support the ridge beam or rafters. Here, a bar with a section of 100x10 or 100x150 mm is used, depending on the section of the supporting elements.
Puffs, runs, struts are used as additional elements. Their cross section varies from 50x100 to 100x150 mm.
crate. There are two types of lumber here: a 50x50 lath or a board 20-25 thick and 100 or 150 mm wide.
Separately, it must be said about the rafters. This is the basis of the roof, so they are calculated taking into account the type of roofing material, snow and wind loads, as well as the installation step and the length of the span of the house. We will not go into details, we simply denote the dependence of the cross section of the rafter legs on the installation step and length. In the table below, this relationship is clearly visible.
The ratio of the cross section of the rafters with the installation step and their length Source banya-expert.com
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of calculating and installing roofs and roofing. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
The sequence of construction operations
Installing a roof on a house is a strict sequence of construction processes. It cannot be broken. Here are the main steps:
measure box dimensions buildings, because often the actual parameters may differ from the design ones;
preparatory work associated with the preparation of tools and the acquisition of the required amount of building materials;
treatment lumber antiseptic;
Mauerlat installation;
ridge run installation, if there is one in the roof structure;
installation of rafters;
styling and batten fastening;
roofing installation, installation of a ridge, gable and cornice strips, droppers and other additional elements.
If the project includes roof insulation, then a heat-insulating cake is laid.
So, the stages are indicated, now let's move on to considering how all the above-mentioned lumber is attached to each other and to the walls of the house.
Mauerlat fastening to the walls
There are several options here, but more often they are used as anchor fasteners, which are fastened by welding to a reinforcing frame made of steel reinforcement, which is laid in the armored belt. The latter is a strip construction made of concrete, which is poured around the entire perimeter of the building along the upper horizontal planes of the walls.
Please note that if a wooden house is being built from logs or timber, then the upper crown of the building is used as a Mauerlat. If the house is frame, then the upper harness is made of timber.
Fastening rafter legs to the Mauerlat
There are also several options here. But with the advent of perforated fixing profiles in construction, the installation process itself has been simplified several times. Today, few people use cuttings and other tricks. It is easier to install a profile, and fasten two wooden elements with self-tapping screws, adding a couple of long nails for reliability.
Attaching rafters to each other
Let's start with the fact that the roof manufacturing technology is two options for the truss system: layered and hanging. The first in its design has a ridge beam, the rafters rest against it, and are also attached. The second is a design without a ridge run. The rafters rest against each other.
The first option is easier to build. All actions are performed on the roof. That is, first a ridge beam is installed on the supports. Racks with their lower ends rest against the floor beams. And on the top they put a beam that forms the ridge of the house. The elements are fastened with the same metal fastening profiles.
The rafters are laid on top of the ridge run, rested against each other and fastened together with perforated plates, and also attached to the ridge beam with mounting corners.
As for the hanging rafter structure, it is more difficult to implement. There is no ridge beam, the rafter legs at the top have nothing to rest against, so they are joined to each other. Doing it on the roof is not easy. Therefore, the construction of individual pairs of rafters connected by horizontal puffs is assembled on the ground. This structure is called a farm. After that, the finished trusses are lifted to the roof, installed and fastened together by intermediate runs. The connections of the truss elements to each other are exactly the same as in the previous operations.
Reinforcement of the roof structure
If the task is to build the roof of a house whose span exceeds 12 m, then you need to take care of strengthening the truss structure. In this case, they take one single option - the installation of props under the rafters. In fact, these are ordinary racks, which rest against the floor beams with their lower end, and the rafters with their upper end (somewhere in the middle of its length).
But it is necessary to take into account the installation step of the rafter legs. This is especially true of the hanging variety. They do not have an upper support, so there is a high probability of truss collapse. There is only one way out - to install runs on intermediate racks. They will link the farms together into a single structure. By the way, often such a run is also installed at the highest point. But this beam does not perform the function of a skate.
Some craftsmen believe that runs are an optional element, because the trusses are held together, ultimately, by a crate. For the installation of roofs of small sizes, the statement is correct. But for large roofs with hanging rafters, additional runs are indispensable.
Lathing installation
This is the simplest process in the construction of a roof structure. To do this, use either nails or self-tapping screws as fasteners. The main requirement for the length of fasteners is double the thickness of the crate element. And this is the minimum.
And a few more nuances:
join the elements of the crate only on the rafters;
if a solid version is assembled from plates or sheets, then you need to choose a moisture resistant material;
slabs and sheets are laid on the roof in a checkerboard pattern, the main thing is that the joints are not on the same line.
Roofing and creating a heat-insulating cake
In this situation, the main thing is the accuracy of the sequence of construction operationsth.
On rafter legs across the roof laying waterproofing film. The process starts from the eaves and moves to the ridge. The subsequent waterproofing strips are laid on the previous ones with an offset of 10-20 cm. The joints are closed with self-adhesive tape.
Spend installation of roofing material.
The rest of the processes are transferred to the attic.
Laid between rafters insulation.
From above, strips, as in the case of waterproofing, are laid vapor barrier film.
When using heat-insulating materials that do not absorb moisture, for example, Penoplex boards, the vapor barrier film is an extra layer.
Video description
The sequence of the construction of the roof in the video:
Conclusion on the topic
Since there are several options for roofing structures, they build roofs in different ways. But at the heart of any model are the same construction operations. And these are: installation of a power plate, installation of a rafter system, battens, laying roofing material and assembling a heat-insulating cake. The latter may be absent if a cold roof is being built according to the project.
Loading...