How to attach interior door trim. How to install door frames. Types of platbands and methods of their fastening

All wall finishing work is completed by installing trim on the doors. If they were dismantled on purpose, no problems arise - they are placed in reverse order. If the repair work was accompanied by replacement door block, then very often the question arises about how to install trim on the door with your own hands.

At first glance, nothing complicated. However, in the process of work, moments arise when knowledge of the nuances cannot be avoided.

Below we will consider what material and what shape of trims to buy, as well as how to install them correctly - advice from professionals will help you do the work yourself quickly and beautifully.

Why are platbands needed?

After installing the doors, gaps remain between the frame and the wall, in which fasteners and foam are visible. Previously, the remaining open openings were plastered and then painted or covered with wallpaper, but now they are hidden under extensions (you can see how to do this in the material “Installing extensions on interior doors with your own hands”) and platbands.

The platband is a strip installed on the wall along the perimeter of the doorway on both sides of the door frame.

Based on the above definition, it can be argued that the platband is one of the door elements that closes the gap between the wall and the door block for aesthetic purposes. Consequently, the appearance of both the wall near the opening and the door itself depends on the quality of its installation. Competently installed platbands

allow:
visually align the door frame if errors were made during their installation that led to loss of verticality;

beautifully hide the gap and hangers between the wall and the edge of the frame of the door block;
serve as one of the interior elements that emphasizes the chosen style of room design (curly trims are installed, for example, Doriot, Greco, etc.);

hide various wires and cables.

Simply put, the interior door, being part of the space in which the family lives, along with other elements of the room (floor, walls, ceiling, etc.) creates coziness and comfort. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the selection and installation of platbands.

Types of platbands Door trims can be classified according to different types

the material from which the slats are made;
dimensions;
shape of the front side of the board;
fastening method.

Material

In the production of platbands they use different materials. Each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Tree

Wooden platbands are made from both soft rocks wood (pine, spruce, linden) - a budget option, and hardwood (Karelian pine, ash, beech, walnut, oak, etc.) - an expensive, elite look. Wood planks have many advantages:

environmental cleanliness;
versatility - suitable for any door leaf;
beautiful design - fits into any interior. The main thing is to choose the right shape and color;
simple installation - can be easily installed by the owner of the house or apartment himself;
long service life - with proper care;
maintainability - quite easy to restore with minor mechanical damage.

But wooden products also have their disadvantages:

They do not tolerate significant fluctuations in temperature and humidity - they can swell or dry out. Both options, due to deformation, negatively affect the appearance;
an insufficiently processed surface darkens, losing its original colors;

high price. Thus, an oak casing 70x15 mm costs about 230 rubles. for 1 p.m. Author's works from valuable wood with brass or copper inserts may generally cost more than standard interior door.

Conventional wooden frames cost an order of magnitude lower, but are still more expensive than other materials.

MDF

The main competitor to wooden products is MDF trim. Covered on the front side with natural veneer or special protective film made of PVC (laminated), they imitate the structure of wood, which maintains a consistently high demand for such products.

The material is environmentally friendly - lignin is used to glue wood fibers together. In terms of aesthetic perception, it is only slightly inferior to wood products. Has high wear resistance and resistance to mechanical stress. Attached with glue, liquid or special finishing nails.

The disadvantages include low resistance to moisture - they swell. Therefore, it is not recommended to install MDF trim in the bathroom.

The price of 1 linear meter can be budget (from 120 rubles) and quite expensive (from 1,000 rubles - figured). Veneered valuable species wood planks can be bought for 180-600 rubles. for 1 p.m.

Plastic

Buying Construction Materials made of plastic, the consumer probably knows that it will be PVC. In the case of platbands this is not entirely true. There are also products on the market made from cast polyurethane, which is fundamentally different from polyvinyl chloride products.

PVC. Platbands made of PVC have many advantages:

low price - located in the lower price sector;
resistant to changes in temperature and humidity, which eliminates their deformation;
do not rot;
Easy care - just wipe with a damp cloth;
due to the hollow structure, they allow you to hide various cables inside;

long service life;
installation is accessible to beginners.

There are also disadvantages. Because of internal structure PVC strips (produced in the form of a hollow profile with a large number partitions and stiffeners):

easily damaged mechanically;
When cutting and fastening, there is a high probability of cracks and burrs appearing.

There is also a more significant drawback: the aesthetic perception is significantly inferior to platbands made of other materials - you can immediately see that it is cheap plastic. For fastening, liquid nails are most often used and polyurethane foam— self-tapping screws are difficult to disguise, and finishing nails often lead to cracking and delamination of the material.

Polyurethane. The material made of cast polyurethane (obtained by pressing in cast iron molds) is very similar to planks made of natural wood: African oak or linden. It can be cut and drilled in the same way as regular boards. This technology allows:

getting the front surface is very complex shape imitating stucco, casting or wood carving;
easy and simple to attach to the doorway;

if necessary, paint completely or individual areas;
cut and drill without the risk of damaging the strip.

Among the shortcomings, we note quite high price, which, however, is compensated by a long service life and chic design.

Metal

Metal trims are mainly used when installing steel entrance doors from the corridor or street. In this version, the platbands form a single whole with the box. However, metal strips can also be found on sale as separate elements, which is not surprising. After all, the range of interior doors made of aluminum or galvanized steel is quite impressive.

Metal has many positive qualities:

not afraid of humidity;
does not fade in the sun;
withstands any mechanical loads;
has no restrictions on service life, etc.

Some difficulties arise only during their installation - without any experience, it is difficult to size them. You can buy a set at a price of 4,000-7,000 rubles.

Dimensions

The size of the casing is influenced by 4 factors:

dimensions of the doorway;
door location;
plank shape;
the size of the gap between the wall and the door block.

Doorways differ in different series of houses, and therefore the doors have different widths and heights. And this, in turn, requires the release of platbands different sizes, both according to technical and aesthetic requirements (in order for objects to look harmonious in combination, they must have certain proportions in size). For example, for doors 2 m high and 80 cm wide, the trims should be within 64 mm. Deviations of 5 mm in one direction or another lead to the fact that the installed planks look somewhat ridiculous.

In life, it is not always possible to comply with such requirements. If the gap between the door frame and the end of the wall in the opening is large, and there is no possibility of partially plastering it, wider trims are purchased. When choosing a specific size, you need to focus on the requirements of SNiP. According to it, the width of the platband should be 30 mm greater than the gap.

When doors are located close to an adjacent wall, on the contrary, it is often necessary to install narrower strips.

The dimensions also depend on the shape of the casing: flat models with a width of 64 mm visually look the same as semicircular ones with a width of 70 mm, and telescopic ones - 75 mm. Metal falls out of the overall picture somewhat. It is produced in a width of 40 mm, which must be taken into account when choosing the type of material.

Form

On sale you can find platbands of different board shapes: rectangular and teardrop-shaped. In turn, rectangular platbands can be:

flat (also called straight);
with a bevel of one edge or the entire surface;
semicircular;

curly.

The choice of a specific form depends on the design style of the room and the taste preferences of the owners.

Door mounting methods

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands on interior doors is carried out using several technologies, which differ in the method of attaching the strip to the door block and the type of joining of the vertical platband with the horizontal one.

According to the method of fixing the planks, there are 4 technologies:

nails;
self-tapping screws;
adhesives (liquid nails);
using tongue-and-groove fastening (telescopic platbands).

The corner connection of the vertical and horizontal platband can be made straight (90°) or with a cut at an angle of 45°.

Nails

Wooden trims, as well as those made of MDF and polyurethane, are easiest to attach to special finishing nails. The fixation of the planks is very reliable, and if necessary, they can be easily removed along with the nails (re-placed in the same holes, still ensuring good fastening).

Hats get tucked behind the face. If they are very conspicuous, they are masked with wax pencils. The required length of nails (available in the range of 20-100 mm) is calculated as follows: 20 mm is added to the thickness of the casing, which must be driven into the box. Nailed in increments of 50 cm.

Some experts advise drilling holes for them, which, according to the editors, is not necessary: thin nails can be driven into any material well.

Self-tapping screws

Installing trim on interior doors using self-tapping screws is similar to fastening with nails. Only here the fasteners are hardware 25 mm long and 6 mm in diameter. Unlike finishing nails, it is necessary to drill holes for self-tapping screws.

The drill used is 1 mm smaller in diameter than for hardware. Step 50 cm. To hide the head of the self-tapping screw, a countersunk hole is drilled into the plank to a depth of about 1.5 mm with a larger diameter drill, which, after attaching the platbands, is sealed with a wax pencil or sealed with veneer (protective film).

Glue

Quite often, liquid nails are used to attach platbands. The method has one advantage: no traces of fixation are visible. There are two disadvantages:

weak fastening;
Difficulties during dismantling: in some places it barely holds on, in others it is torn out “with meat”.

However, they cannot be used on a curved wall.

Attention: sometimes you can come across advice to glue platbands onto polyurethane foam. This method has the right to life, but under several conditions:

the platband must be light enough for the glue to hold it;
the wall and the plane of the door frame must coincide;

Before the foam dries, the planks are pressed against the wall and frame with clamps in at least 3 places.

Tenon and groove

The installation of telescopic platbands is carried out in the same way as the construction kit is assembled: the slats are held in place by finger joint. To ensure reliable fixation, experts recommend lubricating the grooves and tenons with PVA glue.

Attention: the use of any type of glue in telescopic systems practically eliminates the possibility of gentle dismantling, which must be taken into account.

90 o. The joining method at right angles is only suitable for platbands with a rectangular cross-section (flat in the shape of the front part). In this case, the top strip can lie on the vertical trim (horizontal joining) or between them (vertical).

45 o. For corner connections of curly or oval platbands, each plank at the joining point must be cut at an angle of 45 o. This is the most common way to connect door frame cladding elements.

Required materials and tools

To cover the door frame, you will naturally need platbands and one of the types of fasteners: nails, screws or glue. In addition, you need the following tools:

screwdriver with drill and bit - necessary when working with self-tapping screws;
hammer or pneumatic hammer for driving nails;
jigsaw or hand saw on wood;
miter box - for cutting corners with a hand saw;
roulette;
chisel;
construction square;
construction pencil;
wax pencil when attaching platbands to nails or screws.

Preparatory work

When installing platbands from the extension side, as a rule, no problems arise. But on the side of the door frame, carpenters quite often encounter a situation where the door block is either slightly recessed into the opening or protrudes outward. In this case, it is necessary to carry out work to hide these shortcomings.

The box is recessed

If the structure of the door block is recessed into the opening, and there is no way to correct the mistake by adding more, a thick platband is taken and an undercut is made in the wall under it. The work order is as follows:

the platband is attached to the box;
the line of the platband is marked on the wall;
using a grinder with a cutting wheel for concrete or brick, an incision is made into the wall along the drawn line;
use a chisel and hammer to knock out a recess for the platband - no need to be afraid to make the cut deeper or go beyond the line;
not done a large number of cement mortar(it is better to use ready-made putty);
the knocked-out recess is lightly covered with mortar and the casing is immediately applied, as tightly as possible. Excess mortar that appears is removed first with a trowel or spatula, and then with a rag or rag;
the casing is removed, and the solution is given time to set.

To prevent the solution from sticking to the back of the plank, it is first moistened with water.

The box protrudes

If the box protrudes beyond the wall, a plane and wooden frames. The technology is simple: the size of the box is marked on the back side, after which a quarter is selected from the back side of the casing using a plane. You need to work slowly, constantly monitoring the process of selecting a recess for the box.

Installation instructions for platbands

When the materials have been purchased and the tools are at hand, all that remains is to figure out how to properly install platbands on interior doors.

All construction works begin with adjusting the material to size. This also applies to platbands. There are two connection methods here vertical strips with top casing. Let's look in detail at how the strips for each of them are measured and cut.

At an angle of 90

The rectangular connection of platbands can be of several types, and therefore measurements are taken in different ways.

Vertical. The connection of the planks with a vertical seam involves the placement of a horizontal platband between the side posts. In this case, the work is performed in the following sequence:

on the side of the hinges, at a distance of 3-4 mm from them, a platband is applied to the door (the indentation is necessary for the doors to open freely) and at the top, on the inside, the line of the strip is marked;

a similar operation is carried out with the platband and on the side of the handle. In this case, one of the platbands must be marked - they may have different heights due to uneven floors;
To door frame the top bar is applied and brought to a horizontal position. If there is a visual distortion, adjustments are made in such a way as to hide the existing defect as much as possible;
taking the drawn vertical lines as a guide, the length of the upper casing is noted;

a mark is made along the top of the plank, close to the edge, which necessarily intersects the previously placed vertical lines;
side trims are applied to the door one by one to determine their length - marks are placed opposite the drawn crosses on the slats;

For reference: in the absence of an urgent need to obtain precisely fitted joints, the width of the casing and the amount of offset from the hinges are added to the vertically installed bar from the lower level of the horizontal beam of the box.

on the surface of the planks, cut lines are marked with a pencil using a construction square;

Using a jigsaw or a handsaw (preferably using a miter box), the platbands are cut to size.

Horizontal simple. With a horizontal connecting seam, the upper casing is first applied to the door frame. After finding its specific installation location along the bottom edge, horizontal lines are drawn from both ends that will show the length of the side trims.

After this, the length of the vertically located strips is determined by analogy with the previous example. Experienced carpenters determine the size of the top platband after attaching the side ones - a perfect match is guaranteed: a horizontal platband is laid on the fixed strips. Marking its length is not difficult.

Horizontal with an overlap. In some cases, designers suggest installing the top trim with slightly protruding edges. In this case, the top strip is laid on the already installed side trims, as in the previous case, and then the cutting lines are marked.

At an angle of 45

It is somewhat more difficult to join semicircular and figured platbands - you will have to cut the ends at an angle of 45 o. Note that this is the most common way to join the trim at the top of the door, allowing you not only to hide the cracks, but also to get a beautifully designed opening. The technological operation consists of several steps:

Step 1. The length of the left and right platbands is determined. To do this, on the side of the hinges, with an indent of 3-4 mm, a platband is applied to the box. The lowest point of the cut is marked. It is located above the door opening by an indent.

Step 2. The length of the second casing is determined in the same way.

Step 3. Platbands are placed on stools or a table. The lower control lines are drawn along the marks. After this, the platband is extended to its width. The upper control line is drawn along the second mark.

Step 4. Platbands are cut at an angle of 45 o. If sawing is done with a hand saw, then the bar is attached to the miter box so that one of the marks is opposite the slot at 45 o. If you have a jigsaw at hand, mark the cut location with a pencil - the upper and lower marks are connected diagonally.

Step 5. Side trims are installed.

Step 6. The top strip is placed on the platbands so that its bottom coincides with the beginning of the cut of the ends of the side strips.

Step 7 The corners at the top bar are cut.

Step 8 Joints are sealed with acrylic or silicone sealant, and then painted with concealer.

The sized planks are attached in several ways.

On nails

The most common method of attaching cash to a door is with finishing nails. They are hardly noticeable on the surface of the planks, do not require work experience, and are easily removed from the box along with the trim. For work, use nails with a flattened head, about 40-60 mm long, and 1.5 mm in diameter. The color of such nails may be different, since they are coated with one of the following metals:

zinc;
copper;
chrome;
brass;
bronze

You can hammer in with a simple hammer or a pneumatic tool. The step between the fastenings is about 50 cm.

If you can’t buy finishing nails, you can use regular ones. In this case, they are not hammered completely, leaving the opportunity to bite off the caps with a side cutter. After removing the heads, the nails are driven in completely.

In most cases, nail heads are inconspicuous and do not require masking. If you need to hide traces of fastening, then use a wax pencil.

For self-tapping screws

Fastening with screws completely repeats the instructions for fastening with nails:

platbands are cut to size;
are applied to the box (side), after which the places for screwing in the screws are marked on them;
holes are drilled (the drill is taken 1 mm thinner);
side strips are attached;
Using the same technology, the top cash is attracted to the box;
the heads of the hardware are masked with a wax pencil, veneer or film.

Attention: with a vertical seam of 90 o, it is necessary to attach the platbands in a slightly different order: the side strip, then the top, the process is completed by side trim again.

For liquid nails

Fastening with glue also does not cause problems. The MDF planks adjusted to size are turned upside down. Liquid nails are applied to them with a snake along the entire length, without gaps. To fix the platbands, they are pressed tightly against the box and held in this position for several minutes - the specific time is indicated on the packaging.

Fastening PVC strips

Plastic panels can be put on glue, which is not the best solution, or can be assembled using a special profile. The operating procedure is as follows:

the planks are cut to size;

A profile is cut to the size of the box. May be a little shorter;
then the profile is cut in half at an angle of 45 o, after which it is screwed to the box with self-tapping screws. The connection at the top should be 45 o. That is why such a cut was made. Naturally, the connection in the middle of the beam should be rectangular;
The strips cut at an angle of 45 o are connected in the side fittings and then snapped into the profile.

Installation of platbands on the front door

Installation of platbands on the front door is carried out in the same way. There aren't even any nuances.

Nuances of the work

Every job has its secrets. Here are some tips from professionals.

How to join the platband to the baseboard

The platband is installed close to the floor. The length of the plinth is adjusted to it. The plastic baseboard has a beautiful cap at the end. Wooden ones are processed: the end adjacent to the baseboard is beveled at an angle of 45 o.

How to trim the casing

When working with a jigsaw, all cutting lines must be very clearly drawn. If you only have a hand saw, then it is advisable to have a miter box on hand. Another important point concerns the width of the cut. It can eat 3 mm from the length of the platbands. Therefore, when applying markings, the easiest way is to raise it by 1.5 mm, and cut exactly along the line.

How to align the plane of the platband with the wall

When installing a door block, it is not always possible to achieve the same plane of the wall and frame. In this case, preparatory work is carried out to eliminate the defect, as discussed above.

Finally, here are some more tips.

Platbands are installed after finishing the walls.
Significant wall defects are well hidden under wide, about 12 cm, platbands.
Errors when joining the platbands at an angle of 45 o can be eliminated with putty, tinted after drying with a corrector to match the tone of the panels.

Visible gaps between the platband and the frame are sealed with acrylic sealant, and then tinted to match the materials with a corrector.

The main problem when installing platbands is not technological process, it is simple, and the correct choice of strips in color, width and shape of the front surface.

Door trims are installed for one purpose, to close the gaps formed when installing the door frame in the opening.
Before you find the answer to the question of how to install platbands on doors, you need to understand the rules for selecting platbands and become familiar with the technology for their installation.

Where to begin?

In order to install platbands on doors, you need to choose them correctly. To do this, cash must be selected according to width, texture, and color.
When choosing the color of the trim, give preference to the one with which the door leaf is also finished.
When choosing the width, try to choose platbands, the installation of which will harmoniously close all the gaps.
By the way, gaps always form when installing a door frame in doorway. There is no escape from them. It is impossible to make a box that fits absolutely exactly in the doorway. More precisely, you can make an exact box and an opening measured to the millimeter, but the costs will be quite high. Is this necessary?
It is cheaper to close the resulting gap with platbands.
For the manufacture of platbands they are used various materials.
Platbands can be made of wood, MDF boards, plastic, veneered or laminated.
Let's try to figure out how to properly install platbands on the door.
Installation of cashing begins after completion of all repairs.
The installation of platbands is a final operation and is performed with or after the installation of skirting boards. It is similar to attaching cornices, in the sense that it is performed after all finishing work has been completed.

Installation of platbands

To make the process of installing platbands clear to everyone, we will divide it into several stages.

Preparatory stage
It is necessary to check the evenness and flatness of the walls adjacent to the doorway. If there is a large curvature, the walls must be leveled. And this must be done.

Attention! When leveling the walls, carefully monitor them relative position. The walls must not only be leveled, but also placed in the same plane on both sides of the opening.

Platbands can hide irregularities and cracks up to 3 mm. But it will no longer be possible to cover differences in unevenness of more than 3 mm with the help of platbands. Knowing how to attach cash correctly, you can hide all the irregularities and gaps.

The use of platbands not only gives the room an aesthetic appearance, but also creates completeness of the room.
The importance of installing platbands can be compared to installing skirting boards or nailing cornices.

The right tool

A few words about the tool used.
When installing platbands main problem is to adjust the mating parts at the desired angle. Platbands are installed either at right angles, but most often at an angle of 45°. It is best to use a miter box.

A miter saw is used to cut the material. It ensures an even cut of platbands made of any material.

But cheap models of machines have play and error, so it’s still preferable to use a miter box for installing platbands with your own hands Among the auxiliary tools you will need a pencil, ruler, square, level, plumb line.

The right choice of material for platbands

When choosing platbands, pay attention to the structure of the material.
The appearance of the trim must match the pattern on the door. Since various materials are widely used for the manufacture of cash registers: wood, plastic, MDF boards, it is not difficult to select trims for doors.
Installed platbands can be covered on the outside with a laminated film, painted, varnished, or sealed with veneer.
Platbands are produced various shapes, allowing you to solve extensive design problems.

When purchasing, it is very important to check the platbands for bending and curvature.

Rules for installing platbands

The rules are given for those who want to learn how to properly install platbands on interior doors.
When installing platbands, you should ensure that the parts fit together without gaps.

The simplest option is to install platbands of a simple rectangular shape.
Ultimately, you just need to ensure that the mating parts are joined at right angles.

Most platbands are produced in more complex shapes and are joined at an angle of 45°.
Attention! To ensure the required angle, it is recommended to use a special device called a miter box.

Step-by-step installation of platbands
Below is step-by-step instruction, how to attach cash on interior doors.

First, the platbands are installed on the side from which the door opens towards itself.

Attention! Do not forget that it is necessary to correctly mark the left and right cuts.

Attention! The platbands are nailed at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the box.

Having cut the standard platband blank into two equal parts, file one blank from one edge. Attach the workpiece to the nailed platband and check that the sawn corner matches. Mark the second edge of the workpiece, file the corner and insert the casing between the vertical trims.

We will rub the deepening places of the nails with wax to match the color of the doors.

You have read the material on how to install platbands on interior doors, understand the principles and the installation sequence will be described in more detail in the video.

But a few useful tips it won't hurt you:

1. There are telescopic platbands, which are fastened using a special slot. The slot is inserted into the groove of the extension or door frame.

2. There are cases when it is impossible to use platbands of the same size, since the cashing cannot be installed in width. In this case, sawing the platbands more than ¾ in width is not recommended.

3. The upper casing is installed after securing the two vertical casings.

4. The construction market offers platbands of various shapes: figured, semicircular, carved or teardrop-shaped.

5. Platbands are available in standard sizes in cm:

W×T×H; where W is width, T is thickness, H is height. 7x1x210.

A few words about the capitals

Capitals are special door trims, the main function of which is to decorate the doors.
Such platbands are made from MDF sheets or wood. Installing a capital makes the doors look rich and finished.

Once again about fastening platbands

Above we described how to attach cash to interior doors, using what related materials. But that's not all.

Platbands can be secured not only with nails.
Liquid nails and self-tapping screws are used to fasten platbands. There are also special fastenings called “beaks”.

The use of finishing nails allows you to subsequently dismantle and replace the trim. The nails should have a flat, narrow head. The length of the nails should be 1.5 cm longer than the thickness of the casing, usually 4 cm. The fastening step with nails is recommended to be 0.5 m.

Liquid nails are glue intended for fastening platbands. The glue is applied to the platband, which is pressed against the door frame, and left for several seconds. This method fastening eliminates traces of fastening.

Fastening with self-tapping screws is more reliable. Holes are pre-drilled in the marked trims, and recesses are drilled for the caps.
Special mounts called "beaks" are easy to use and create a great look.

Conclusions:
- select platbands based on structure and color that are similar to the door leaf;
- the upper casing is installed after fixing the side casings;
- to attach the trim, use nails, glue, and self-tapping screws.

How to install trim on interior doors without nails video

How to install trim on doors video tips

Similar materials

It is difficult to imagine a house or apartment without doors. The purpose of entrance doors is, first of all, to protect and preserve heat, and the main function of interior doors is to zone the space in the room. The variety of materials from which doors are made today is amazing, but door leaves cannot be installed without platbands, because they give the door a finished and aesthetically attractive look.

Peculiarities

What are these platbands? And why doesn’t the door look so attractive without them? To answer these questions you need to understand all the features of these elements.

Platbands are strips installed around the perimeter on both sides of the entrance opening in which the door is located.

The main function of platbands is to cover the gap between the wall and the door frame.

They perfectly hide individual structural and installation elements (the ends of the door frame, screws, fasteners, polyurethane foam), and also prevent the penetration of drafts, thereby retaining heat in the room. Their decorative function is no less important. Properly selected and installed platbands decorate not only the door itself, but also the opening in which it is installed.

Installing platbands is the final touch in transforming the entire room, so their selection and installation should be approached very scrupulously, having thought through all the details and studying not only the features, but also the types of these important elements.

Kinds

Door trims have their own classification, thanks to which they can be divided into types according to several criteria. The most significant differences include the form and method of installation of these elements. Platbands mounted around the perimeter of the doorway usually have rectangular shape

Flat-shaped platbands have a smooth and, based on the name, flat surface; in cross section, such a strip has the shape of a rectangle. Semicircular trims have a convex surface, and depending on the designer’s idea, it can be symmetrical in the shape of a crescent, or it can be slightly shifted to one side of the plank and resemble a falling drop. Flat and semicircular types are among the most common platbands: they are most often installed on interior doors.

A more expensive and less common option is figured platbands. A distinctive feature of this species is the presence of a certain relief on their surface. The relief pattern is located along the plank and consists of shaped depressions in the form of grooves, alternating with hills in the form of rollers. Embossed trim gives the door a rather attractive and original look.

The installation method is another sign that allows you to classify platbands. Depending on what and how the planks are attached to the opening, they are divided into overhead and telescopic.

A more common option is overlay strips. In order to install them in the opening, nails, self-tapping screws, PVA glue, liquid nails or sealant are required. It is with the help of these fasteners that the overhead trims are held on the wall.

Telescopic platbands are attached in a different way: they do not need to be nailed or screwed to the wall - they hold well due to their special L-shape, which is their undoubted advantage. One edge of such a plank has a rounded shape and adjoins directly to the wall, and the other is bent in a special way and, when installed, fits into the recess (groove) of the box, firmly connecting to it.

This method of fastening allows you to avoid installing special extension strips if the thickness of the box does not exceed the thickness of the wall by more than 10-15 mm. If necessary, the telescopic strips can be extended to a length of 1-2 cm. Thus, they will perfectly hide the gap between the frame and the wall.

Telescopic platbands can be attached not only to the box, but also to the extensions. If the distance between the wall and the frame exceeds the mark of 15–20 mm, then the installation of extensions cannot be avoided. Most often, the front door is installed with extensions, since the opening is almost always thicker than the frame.

Platbands can also be classified according to the method of joining. At the top of the opening, the planks are in contact with each other, the angle of their connection is the basis that helps classify the platbands according to the method of joining. The ends of the planks can be connected at either an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.

In order to connect the ends of the plank at an angle of 45 degrees, you will have to trim each plank on the joining side. This cutting method is the most common and suitable for planks with any surface shape.

Platbands joining at the ends at an angle of 90 degrees can have two joining directions: horizontal and vertical. This joining method is suitable for straight planks with a rectangular cross-section.

Platbands with a figured and semicircular surface cannot be installed in this way, since the convex or figured end part with this arrangement will rise above the surface of the joined plank.

Materials

For the manufacture of platbands, materials of different origins are used in production. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are taken into account during installation.

Platbands can be made of wood, plastic, fiberboard (MDF), and metal.

Wood is the most environmentally friendly material. For the manufacture of platbands they use different breeds trees. Budget models are most often made of soft wood species such as pine or linden, while for the more expensive segment oak, beech or wenge are used. Wooden planks are considered universal products: they are suitable for almost any door leaf, the main thing is to choose the right tone using paint, wax or stain. Wooden trims are easy to install and can last quite a long time. long time if you care for them properly.

But wood has its drawbacks: wooden crafts do not tolerate temperature changes and excessive air humidity, without treatment by special means wooden surface absorbs a large amount of moisture, which leads to rotting processes and ultimately to deformation of the product. In addition, the untreated surface of the planks often darkens, losing its original tone. But in fairness, it is worth noting that the material can still be restored. To restore a presentable appearance, cracks can be filled with putty, darkened areas can be cleaned, the surface can be treated with an antiseptic and covered with any paint and varnish material.

The second most popular material is fibreboard(MDF). The surface of MDF trims in appearance is very similar to the structure of wood, so planks made of this material are in great demand compared to other types. This is not surprising, because MDF boards are environmentally friendly clean materials: when gluing fibers, substances of natural origin are used: paraffin and lignin.

In order for the MDF trim to match the tone of the door frame, door leaf, trims and other elements, they are lined.

The front surface of the plank is either laminated or veneered. Lamination is the process of wrapping an MDF blank PVC film, and pasting with a thin cut of solid wood the front side is veneered. Laminated types have good wear resistance, and veneered trims are not inferior in quality and appearance to wooden models.

U MDF material there is only one drawback - it is poor resistance to moisture. As a rule, platbands from of this material Do not install in rooms with high humidity and do not use for lining entrance door openings.

You can attach MDF trims using glue, liquid or special nails.

One of the most practical materials used for the production of platbands is plastic. The service life of plastic panels is much longer than those made of MDF.

It is resistant to temperature changes, which means the planks are not subject to deformation processes. The surface of the panels does not fade in the sun, their color remains unchanged throughout their entire service life. Plastic is a moisture-resistant material, which means that the panels will not rot or become covered with mold. Caring for them is simple: just wipe the products with a damp cloth.

Plastic trims, unlike products made from MDF, can be installed outdoors: they will withstand all atmospheric conditions perfectly.

Plastic panels good quality in appearance they are not much different from similar MDF products, but are sold for a lower price compared to MDF panels. Installation of plastic platbands is simple and accessible even for beginners.

For fixation plastic products Liquid nails are most often used, since disruption of the structure of the material with ordinary thin nails can lead to cracking and delamination of the product into small pieces.

Practical metal is used less often than other materials for the production of platbands. Metal strips differ from the above materials in their increased resistance to mechanical stress, which is why they are used during installation entrance structures. Entrance doors, as a rule, are also made of metal; when installing them, platbands are used extremely rarely as separate elements - their function is performed by the door frame.

The metal is not afraid of moisture, does not fade in the sun, and even significant temperature fluctuations are not able to deform the planks.

Dimensions

There are four significant circumstances that influence the dimensions of the platband: the dimensions and location of the opening, the shape of the planks and the size of the gap between the wall and the frame.

Manufacturers produce platbands with different widths not by chance, but quite reasonably. Dimensions of openings in different apartments and even more so, private houses can differ significantly from each other, which, accordingly, affects the size of the door leaves, the frame itself and, of course, the size of the trim. For standard door leaves (80*200 cm), the width of the platband is in the range of 6–10 cm.

The optimal width is 6.4 cm (64 mm): it is enough to close the gap and cover a small part of the wall. Planks with a width of more than 64–70 mm with standard dimensions of the door structure look somewhat rough, which is why manufacturers produce most models of platbands in exactly this width.

The size of the gap between the wall and the frame is an important indicator when choosing the width of the platband. When installing a door of standard dimensions, it is not always possible to install strips 64–70 mm wide - you have to choose narrower models. There may be several reasons for this:

close furniture;
the door structure has smaller dimensions compared to standard dimensions;
location of the doorway (the door frame on one or both sides is close to a perpendicular wall);
design of the door structure (many decorative elements located on the canvas exclude the use of a wide strip in the frame, and a narrow trim in in this case performs only the function of masking the gap).

In any case, the width of the platband should be several millimeters greater than the width of the gap. According to SNiPs it is 30 mm. As a rule, 40 mm is enough to hide structural details and beautifully frame part of the wall.

The width of the strip also depends on the shape of the casing: for flat models it is 64 mm, for products with a semicircular surface – 70 mm, and for figured casings with a relief surface, the width ranges from 85–150 mm.

For telescopic platbands, the width parameter is within different limits: the standard width for such models starts from 60 mm and ends at 80 mm. The optimal width is 75 mm. Due to their structure, telescopic platbands, in addition to width, also have other parameters: the thickness of the strip and the length of the groove element.

Telescopic bars are produced by manufacturers of different sizes. For models with a flat surface type this is:

75x8x10 mm;
75x10x10 mm;
75x8x20 mm;
75x10x20 mm.

For planks with a drop-shaped surface:

75x16x10 mm;
75x16x20 mm.

The first number indicates the width of the strip, the second the thickness, and the third the length of the mounting edge.

Design

Every person, when buying a door, wants the opening into which the structure will be installed to look perfect: the frame and door panel stand straight, and the trim frames beautifully frame the entire structure. Some people do not tolerate excesses, and they prefer simple door designs with flat or arched platbands around the perimeter of the opening, while others want to emphasize their individuality by installing doors with beautiful figured platbands.

But figured platbands are not the only way to help emphasize the peculiarity of the door design. There are other methods with which you can transform the door leaf. Very often, additional elements are used as decoration in the form of overlays located in the upper part of the casing - capitals.

The capital as a decorative element has been known since ancient times. In essence, this is the upper part of the column, stylized with elements (flowers, leaves, curls) characteristic of a certain architectural style. IN modern design This decorative element is actively used in the transformation of door structures in a classic style.

Capitals of various shapes and figured carvings allow you to visually increase the height of the opening, while adding solidity and high cost not only to the door structure, but also to the opening. They are installed, as a rule, only from the front part of the opening - on the reverse side there are platbands without them.

In appearance, the capital with a platband resembles an antique column. The overlays are located in the upper part of the vertical strips, forming a single composition with them. Between the capitals there is a platband similar in design. Sometimes, as an overlay, another decorative element is added to the top bar - a cornice. This decorative element has a beautiful figured protrusion that resembles a visor in appearance. The cornice goes well with the capitals, but even without them, framed by simple planks, it looks no worse.

You can decorate a door structure not only with the help of capitals and cornices; there are also other decorative techniques. One of these techniques is framing the door using carved trims.

Carved platbands are flat or convex wooden planks with rounded edges and decorated with a carved pattern over the entire surface.

In addition to the usual pattern applied using a sharp tool, the surface of the planks may also contain a pattern made using the burning technique. Such platbands, as a rule, cost more than usual, but the price for such beauty is quite justified. Using carved frames in the house, you can create your own unique style, and also add a special atmosphere and comfort to the room.

How to choose?

Many manufacturers produce door designs with ready-made platbands, which allows you not to think about matching the door strips. But this doesn't always happen. Sometimes, due to various circumstances, you have to do the selection yourself, and in order to choose the right planks that fit most naturally into the existing interior, you need to take into account some nuances.

When selecting platbands, first of all, you should think about the size. Wide trims should be chosen if it is necessary to hide large defects around the perimeter of the box that arise not only during the installation of the box, but also during the finishing of the walls.

Very often, when replacing old planks with new models, it is not possible to purchase platbands of the same width due to the fact that the wallpaper cut does not reach the wall border or the gap between the wall and the frame is much larger than 30 mm. In this case, there are two options: either finish the walls again, which is not very profitable, especially if the renovation was not part of your plans, or buy wider planks than before.

But it is worth remembering that slats with a width of more than 100 mm can visually make the structure heavy and even awkward, so you should opt for standard sizes of slats.

The purchase of planks less than 64 mm wide can only be justified by a narrow door leaf or layout features. The closer the opening is to a perpendicular wall or furniture, the narrower the plank should be. A wide plank with such a layout will only visually reduce the space, especially if it is installed end-to-end.

Not only the width, but also the length of the slats must be taken into account when choosing platbands. In order to correctly calculate the length, you need to know the parameters of the door frame. The slats should be 10–15 cm longer than the vertically installed elements. As a rule, in hardware stores you can see slats 215–220 cm long. To cover a standard door structure, you will need 5 slats on both sides: 2 on each side are installed vertically, and The remaining plank is divided in half and each half is installed at the top of the opening.

It is equally important to select platbands taking into account the material from which they are made and color. The material and color of the platbands must completely match or be as close as possible in structure and tone to the door leaf and baseboards, otherwise the design will not look very organic. It is also permissible to choose contrasting door leaf and baseboard colors.

If you plan to run cables through the door, then most the best option There will be plastic trims with cable channels located on the inside of the slats.

The choice of platbands based on material should be justified by the style of the room. Wooden trim and MDF panels will look good in rooms with classic style, and for rooms decorated in a modern style, practical plastic panels are more suitable.

The type of room also affects the choice of platbands. Almost all materials are suitable for rooms with moderate humidity. For entrance doors it is better to use metal trims. The lining of kitchen and bathroom openings can be decorated with ceramic platbands, especially if the adjacent walls are decorated with a similar material.

The choice of shape depends on the design of the room, compliance with the door leaf and the preferences of the owners. The more decorated the door is, the more modest the shape of the slats should be.

For interiors decorated in Baroque and Provence styles, the best option would be wide (from 90 to 120 mm) figured platbands with a clearly visible pattern.

Installation

In order to install platbands with your own hands, you need accurate measurements and knowledge of some installation nuances. If you have free time and patience, installation will not be difficult, the main thing is to properly prepare the place and planks.

Any installation, including the installation of platbands, requires some preparatory measures.

In this case, this is preparing the surface of the doorway.

Foam is always used between the installed door frame and the wall to close the voids. After hardening, it happens that it protrudes slightly above the surface. To ensure a tighter fit of the plank to the surface, it is necessary to cut off these protruding parts as close as possible to the surface of the wall and frame. They need to be trimmed as carefully as possible, without touching the visible surface of the box.

Sometimes it happens that the surface of the wall and the box are not in the same plane: a difference of more than 3 mm has formed between them. This discrepancy will have to be eliminated, otherwise it will not be possible to install the platbands as evenly as possible.

There are two ways to solve this problem: hollowing out the wall for a niche for the platband or reducing the thickness of the plank.

The first method is suitable if the frame of the structure is strongly recessed into the wall. First you need to attach the trim to the surface of the box and outline the line where the plank joins the wall. Then using suitable option
tool (its choice depends on the material of origin), make an undercut along the box.
Along the marked line, use a grinder or chisel to make a recess under the bar.
To control the depth of the groove, the bar must be applied to the wall from time to time.
Places where the depressions are larger than the intended norm can be cemented or another suitable composition can be used.

To check, the plank must be applied to the wall almost after a few seconds, until the composition has completely dried and the size of the indentation can be further adjusted.

It is necessary to prepare for installation not only the surface of the wall, but also the casing itself. Often, during transportation or unsuccessful storage, damage can occur at the ends of the planks; to eliminate them, you just need to trim the ends by a few millimeters. Trimming is carried out only from the part that will come into contact with the floor.

After preparation, you can begin marking. In order to correctly mark the length of each strip, you need to attach them to the installation site. The mark for the required length depends on the cutting angle and location.

First of all, you need to make a mark on the bar installed on the hinge side. You need to apply the plank to the surface of the wall and frame with an indentation of 3–4 mm. This is necessary so that during operation the door hinges do not come into contact with the bar. On the side of the lock, the bar is also applied with a slight indentation from the rounded corner of the box. If there are extras, the bar is placed at the same level with them.

The length of the vertical bar is measured simply. It is applied to the location and 3–4 mm is added upward from the point of intersection of the inner corner of the box with the bar. To join the planks at an angle of 45 degrees, this mark is final - it is from this that the cut is made. If you plan to join the ends at an angle of 90 degrees, then you need to add the width of the strip to the resulting length. To determine the length horizontal bar it is also necessary to attach it to the surface and make marks on each side, stepping back from internal corners boxes are the same 3–4 mm.

It must be remembered that marks for cutting the length must be made on each plank at the location of its specific installation.

Thus, the floor level in different areas can fluctuate within a few millimeters, and in some cases even centimeters. In addition, in order not to get confused which bar goes where, they are numbered.

For trims cut at a 90-degree angle, the best option would be to leave the ends of the vertical strips open. With this method of cutting, the vertical strips cover the sections of the horizontal platband on both sides, and their open ends are located at the top and are practically invisible to the eye.

For telescopic platbands, in addition to the main cut along the length, another one is made from the side of the location of the element entering the groove of the extension or frame. The undercut on the side allows the top of the plank to fit snugly against the surface of the frame and wall.

After all preparatory work You can start attaching the platbands. The installation method is selected depending on the material of origin of the planks.

You can secure wooden and MDF trims using thin nails, special pins or self-tapping screws. Installation must begin with vertical strips and according to the marks previously placed on them. In order for the plank to hold well, the distance between the nails (screws) should be within 50 cm. During intensive use of the door, the distance is reduced to 15–20 cm.

In order to nail the planks correctly and have the opportunity to correct the platband in case of an error, you do not need to hammer in all the nails at once - it is enough to secure the plank in the center and at the base without hammering them in completely.

The second vertical strip is installed in a similar way, followed by a horizontal casing. After adjusting the end joints, all planks are finally secured.

You can fix the platbands not only with nails or self-tapping screws, but also with liquid nails. This fastening method is suitable provided that the walls have a perfectly flat surface.

The composition is applied to inner side each plank over the entire surface. To fix, the casing is pressed firmly against the surface for 1–2 minutes. As a rule, this time is enough for the plank to stick well.

The method of attaching plastic trims is slightly different from everyone else. In order to fix them on the surface, you must first install mounting profile along the perimeter of the box, securing it with self-tapping screws, and only then insert the upper part of the casing into the grooves. The joints of the ends in the corners are covered with special decorative elements.

Installing platbands is not a difficult task, but it requires a sufficient amount of time, effort and skill. It is difficult for beginners to take into account all the details, but there are standard tips thanks to which the installation of platbands can be carried out with minimal errors or without them at all.

It is better to install platbands only after wallpapering (painting) on both sides of the opening and in the absence of skirting boards. Skirting boards are laid only after the planks are installed, and not vice versa. The lower part of the plank should not rest on the baseboard - only on the floor.
The joining of the side parts of the platband and the plinth depends on the material used to make the latter. For plastic models, the side part is always covered with a shaped plug, so only the length of the product is trimmed. With wooden plinths it is a little different: they do not have plugs, so the side of the plinth adjacent to the plank is cut at 45 degrees.

The most difficult moments in installation are the application of marks, the accuracy of which determines the overall appearance of the structure, and the cutting of the planks at an angle of 45 degrees.
You don’t always have tools at hand that can accurately cut a 45-degree angle, so in this situation you can use a simple square and a pencil.
On the back side of the plank you need to draw a transverse line from the mark. At a distance equal to the width of the bar, another line is drawn. In the resulting square you need to draw a diagonal along which to cut off the excess part of the plank.

At flat surface It’s easy to cut down the walls, the main thing is to accurately mark the location of the cut. But perfectly smooth walls are not available everywhere, and therefore even a correctly made undercut will not save you from the gap between the joints of two planks.
The problem can be solved in a simple but at the same time effective way. To determine the magnitude of the wall difference, you need to tightly attach the platband to the frame. If the width of the gap is no more than 2–3 mm, then the situation can be corrected using a lining of similar thickness. It is only used when cutting a corner to raise one side of the plank. The cut is 45 degrees, but has a slight slope to the surface, which allows the ends to be joined without a gap.

Sometimes it is impossible to completely get rid of the gap, and there is neither the strength nor the desire to reinstall the slats. In this situation, the best option would be to use a sealant that matches the tone. It can also be used to mask the entry points of nails if they are used as a method of attaching planks.

Sections of MDF and wood planks should be sanded using sandpaper. You must act extremely carefully, as there is a risk of damage to the front surface of the plank. After sanding, the sections are painted over using carpenter's markers matched to the color of the planks.

If the platbands are attached to the surface with nails, then for convenience you can pre-drill holes in the strip with a diameter of 1.5 mm. The nails themselves should have a diameter of no more than 1.4 mm, and their length should not exceed 40 mm. To ensure that the places where the nails enter are not so conspicuous, the heads are removed using a side cutter. This tool is also used if the nail does not fully penetrate the surface of the plank and, in addition, is bent. Such a nail should not be pulled out, since with a high degree of probability it will be impossible to drive another one. You just need to break off the bent part and nail a new nail next to it.

When using self-tapping screws as fasteners, the diameter of the drilled holes should be no more than 6 mm. In this case, the attachment points are masked with decorative caps matching the color of the trim.

The aesthetic appearance of the entire structure depends on the tightness of the fit, so very often polyurethane foam is used as an additional measure to increase the adhesion ability of the plank. It is applied on the back side of the plank along the entire length in a narrow strip, and given time to dry. 4-5 minutes are enough for adhesion to the surface of the plank to occur, which is then installed using the chosen fastening method. You should not be afraid that the foam will increase in volume too much and raise the bar, because if you press the bar too hard, the foam will not increase in volume.

Reading time: 7 min.

Finishing a doorway requires certain skills and theoretical knowledge. What framing options to prefer, how to attach platbands to interior doors, which additions to choose, which method is more reliable - professional advice They will help you cope with the installation yourself and without errors.

General rules for installing doors

A door block is a prefabricated structure consisting of a frame, a leaf, installation and connecting units, and fittings.

The box is mounted in the opening and consists of vertical profiles and a crossbar. The sash is installed on one of the profiles using hinges. Profiles are made from durable wood. Sometimes the box is supplemented with a threshold and seal for sound and thermal insulation. In installer slang, a door frame is called a “ludka”.

A movable panel made of wood, veneered with MDF, PVC or metal, closes and opens the opening. Lightweight frames with honeycomb filling or reinforced frames made entirely of wood are sold.

Component elements include platbands and extensions. Framing strips perform a decorative function and cover the joints of the canvas and the box. Extensions cover slopes and joints with walls. Elements come in a special format: for the design of arches and non-standard doorways.

To install a door system yourself, you need tools and basic skills. The quality of installation is affected by the accuracy of measurements: from minimal misalignment of parts, system defects will appear in the future: cracks will form or jamming of the canvas.

The dimensions of the frame must be smaller than the size of the opening, otherwise it will need to be expanded. Professionals consider the optimal size of gaps to the wall to be 10-40 mm.

Door blocks are presented on the construction market in disassembled or assembled format. In the first case, the installer's work will be more complex and time-consuming, since the box will need to be assembled.

The general procedure for attaching an interior door frame looks like this:

Installation of a disassembled box.
Equipping all elements of the door block with the necessary fittings, fastening the door leaf to hinges.
Installing the frame: the door frame is fixed in the opening using hangers or anchors, the gaps are filled with foam
The sash is hung on the fixed “bowl” and adjustments are made.
Platbands and extensions are installed.

Platbands are a mandatory decorative element of the door structure to design the opening around the entire perimeter. Extensions are purchased if the opening in depth exceeds the dimensions of the frame. The protruding surface of the wall is hidden under decorative strips.

Purpose of door frames and extensions

Platbands are flat or three-dimensional planks of different sizes. The installation of horizontal and vertical elements plays a connecting function, combining the parts of the door frame into a completed structure.

They perform an important decorative function: they hide installation defects and give the doorway an aesthetically complete look. Correctly selected door frame harmoniously complements general style rooms.

Sometimes the planks are selected in an unconventional way– to match the shade of the furniture, without maintaining the color of the canvas. This creates an additional accent on the door, and unites the color scheme of the room.

Decorative strips are used to decorate swing doors, sliding compartment systems and arched openings. Upon purchase it is usually offered full set door structure with frame and trim. In this case, the parts are identical in color and texture to the canvas material and have a suitable shape. When choosing original design finishing is purchased separately.

Extensions are special strips for the door frame, made in various configurations. Elements are necessary if the width of the box is less than the thickness of the wall.

For the aesthetic appearance of the uncovered sections of the opening, in the past, a lot of time was devoted to the complex implementation of slopes - plastering, priming, finishing. Now they use the method of adding decorative elements to the door frame. With its use, installation flaws are masked and distortions caused by improper installation of the system are corrected.

Main types of platbands

Door trims vary in installation method, material of manufacture, shape, color and style. The type of product determines the choice of further installation method.
Different materials are used to produce parts:

tree;
metal;

MDF trims are considered the most popular and budget-friendly for finishing interior doors. The undoubted advantage of wood planks is that they can be installed using any type of fasteners.

Varying in style and shape, the planks are:

straight (flat);
with bevel;
teardrop-shaped;
rounded (semicircular);
carved and figured;
typesetting.

An additional element is sometimes installed above the top bar - a capital. Occasionally, the part is used for the lower part of the door frame. The detail plays out deliberately decorative role and is only suitable for rooms in a classic style.

Based on the method of fastening, the planks are usually divided into overhead and telescopic. The first format is fixed using the chosen method directly to the surface door frame, the second is equipped with mounting grooves.

Rules for marking and processing platbands

Installation is carried out after finishing the walls, but before laying the floor plinth.

Preparation of planks consists of correct marking and quality cutting. Vertical trims must be of equal length and correspond to the dimensions of the door frame and opening. When cutting a horizontal crossbar, a small margin is left for perfect adjustment of the corners.

To cut trim made of wood or MDF, you need to use a miter saw. The cut should be made from the reverse side of the product. This method will avoid unevenness and chips. The cut is made using a miter box. Docking at an angle of 45° allows you to join the fragments together perfectly evenly, leaving no gaps.

When marking, lines are drawn with a pencil or a special marker. It is important that the markings are easily erased and not absorbed into upper layer material.

Also common is the option of installing platbands at an angle of 90 degrees with an imitation of a lintel. In this case, the elements are used in a flat shape. When marking, the vertical casing is extended by the width of the horizontal one. The cut areas are painted over with paint or varnish to match the color.

Methods of attaching platbands to interior doors

To attach platbands to interior doors, 4 common installation methods are used. The following materials are used:

nails;
self-tapping screws;
special glue “liquid nails”.

Finds wide application installation of parts according to the tongue-and-groove joint principle.

Door trims for compartment doors have no external and functional differences from the finishing of a regular swing frame. Have standard width and similar fastening methods.

Using finishing nails

Using nails to install platbands is the most traditional method. To disguise fasteners, special small finishing nails with mini-hats are used.

To properly fix the parts, you need to align them using a level. Given the microscopic size of the caps, it is important not to damage the surface of the planks themselves. For hammering, it is better to use a small hammer, and lightly mark the joints in advance with the tip of an awl.

Hammered nails are well masked with mastic or grout of a suitable shade. Light damage to the planks can be painted over with paint, a pencil or even a felt-tip pen.

Application of liquid nails

Installing platbands with liquid nails is considered a quick and simple method of fastening. Hard adhesive composition provides high-quality adhesion to any surface.

First, the correct position of each part is determined. Then a small amount of liquid nails is applied pointwise to the back side of the casing. When pressing, you need to make sure that the glue does not bleed through. If this happens, you need to fix it immediately to avoid spreading; usually only a few dots are applied to the bar.

You can combine the two methods and install the casing first with liquid nails, and then secure it with finishing nails. The combination of fasteners will give the door structure additional strength.

Use of self-tapping screws

Long-term operation without nails will be ensured by installing platbands using self-tapping screws. For wooden planks you will need self-tapping screws about 2-2.5 cm long, a screwdriver or screwdriver, and an electric drill with a wood attachment.

The hole points are marked on the strip in increments of 50 cm. The head of the self-tapping screw must be recessed into the surface. On the front side of the cash, the hole is expanded with a nozzle of a larger diameter to a depth of 1–1.5 mm. Tighten the screws so that the cap is immersed in the recess as much as possible. Then the place of fixation is masked or tinted.

Using clasps with a latch

Snap-on trims are also called telescoping or “beak trims.” The peculiarity of fastening telescopic platbands for interior doors lies in the provided design. To connect the elements, the “tenon and groove” principle applies: the protrusion of the strip is tightly attached to the groove of the door frame, then by adjusting the size of the recess, the required distance is set.

The disadvantage of installation with “beaks” is the inevitable gradual delamination of the structure. Over time, the platbands begin to loosen at the joints. In the future, there may be a need for additional adhesive reinforcement.

Some nuances when installing a decorative door element

Experienced professionals installing interior doors willingly share their secrets on the Internet. We offer several simple tips, which will greatly simplify the process of installing finishing parts and will allow you to avoid errors and defects:

Features of installing extensions

In order to install high-quality extensions, you first need to accurately calculate the dimensions of the door structure. Measurements are taken from the box to the edge of the wall, top, bottom and middle: the width of the additional parts will correspond to the maximum value.

If the platbands are telescopic, then you will need such a number of strips that their total width is desired value. The elements must be made of the material that makes up the remaining fragments door system, and match in color.

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

the product is cut in accordance with measurements;
the door frame is cleaned;
the upper additional part is being installed;
polyurethane foam is blown into the gaps;
side additional elements are installed.

Self-tapping screws are used to secure the finish. Mounting holes with visible screw heads are decorated with plugs to match the additions.

Elimination of defects

Even with experience and skills decorative finishing doorways, you can make annoying mistakes. The following tips will help disguise minor installation defects.

1. If the wall is uneven, the wooden frames may bend and the joints may diverge. To avoid this, during installation the joint is additionally secured with a finishing nail.

2. Significant defects in the wall around the door frame are covered with wide planks (10-12 cm).

3. To disguise nails when installing planks of unsaturated colors, it is good to use light furniture wax or sealant of the appropriate shade.

Tools for work

Before you start attaching the trim of interior doors, check in advance whether you have the necessary tools and details. To finish the door structure you will need:

drill (screwdriver);
screwdriver;
small hammer;
self-tapping screws;
finishing nails with small heads;
fixing glue “liquid nails”;
wood drill with different attachments;
pencil or marker for marking (erasable).

These items are enough to install the trim using one of the installation methods. Naturally, each fastening method and specific products require that the necessary tools be at hand.

Platbands are decorative elements used in finishing door and window openings. They are used to hide cracks. Thereby they serve to improve appearance doors and windows. There are two types of platbands: external and internal. In this article we will talk about platbands for interior doors. They may vary in material, color, shape and method of fastening.

Types of platbands
Necessary tool
Types of fastenings

Finishing nails
Liquid Nails
Self-tapping screws
Beaks

Installation methods

At an angle of 90
At an angle of 45
Telescopic trims

Even before you start choosing platbands, you should know that they need to be installed on interior doors only after finishing the walls and before laying the floor plinth.

Types of platbands

In order to make it easier to choose platbands, or as they are also called - strips, let's figure out what they generally are. The first thing they look at is the material from which they are made:

Wooden planks are considered the most versatile, as they can be painted in the desired color. They are attached to liquid nails if the wall is smooth, or to nails without heads.

Laminated platbands made of MDF (fine fraction) are difficult to distinguish from wooden ones. But unlike the previous ones, you won’t be able to paint them, so choose from ready-made flowers. For MDF, any of the possible mounting options. When attaching to nails without heads, it is necessary to drill blind holes in advance.

Products from PVC, as a rule, used with plastic doors. They are attached either with glue or with a perforated mounting profile.

Metal products are undoubtedly the most reliable and durable. The most common ones are steel and aluminum. However, this type of platbands has a specific appearance and is mainly used on entrance doors.

Exist Also gypsum, ceramic and polyurethane platbands. But they have an unusual appearance and are rarely used in ordinary residential apartments and houses. They are also not durable.

In addition to the material, platbands differ in the method of fastening: overhead and telescopic. The latter have their own grooves for fastening.

Necessary tool

To install platbands you will need:

Pencil
Roulette
Plumb
Square
Level
Miter saw or hacksaw.
Hammer

Types of fastening

Before installing the trim on the workpiece, you must mark the cut angle and the desired length. Using this marking, the plank is cut with a miter saw, or, if it is not available, with a hacksaw using a miter box, which will help cut at an angle of 45 degrees. As in any other case, it is better to use a high-quality tool. This will help to avoid unnecessary irregularities, inaccuracies and, accordingly, unnecessary problems.

Flat platbands are attached at an angle of 90 degrees, wooden and MDF - at an angle of 45 degrees. Let's consider possible options fixation.

Finishing nails

Wooden and MDF trims are easier and better to fasten with nails with flat heads. Then, if necessary, they can be easily dismantled. And so that the platbands do not dismantle by themselves and hold tightly, the nail should be driven into the door frame at least 20 - 25 mm. It is better to make the distance between the nails the same. To simplify the task, you can pre-drill through holes in the lantern. At the end, so that the nails do not disturb the appearance, they can be painted over with a wax pencil.

You can also drive nails into the door frame first. Then use pliers to remove their caps. The length of the visible part of the nail without the head should not be greater than the thickness of the strip. Next, having placed the platband against the nails, a wooden beam wrapped in fabric is applied to the plank at the location of these nails, and with a few light blows of a hammer the plank is pressed onto the nail.

Liquid Nails

For a flawless appearance, without visible fixation elements, use a special glue - “liquid nails”. However, this method is characterized by weak fixation and difficulty in dismantling. In addition, it can only be used on perfectly smooth walls. But if you decide that this mounting method is the most suitable for you, then apply adhesive to the back side of the casing and lean it firmly against the wall. In the case of an interior door, it is enough to hold the bar in this position for about a minute.

Self-tapping screws

This method is similar to the first one, using finishing nails. Naturally, instead of nails there are self-tapping screws. The mounting procedure is similar. The top should be recessed into the plank and painted over with a wax pencil.

Attachment with beaks

This one is different in that it does not use any of the above fasteners. The casing itself is equipped with a latch, shaped very similar to a beak. Hence the name. This fastener is inserted into a recess on the door frame. Thus, the fastening is not visible from the outside. But over time, the joints may collapse, and then they will need to be treated with glue.

Installation methods

The installation of the trim should begin from the side into which the door opens. This is explained by the fact that the hinges interfere with the fastening of the strip to the door frame. Therefore, you have to make an indent that is the same on all sides.

It happens that the door is located in a corner, then the platbands are installed only on two sides. Or you can saw off half the width of the plank and install it from the side of the adjacent wall (as in the photo).

There are also cases when the platband is installed only on one side. For example, when the slopes on other sides are finished with tiles or something else.

90 degree mount

This fastening option uses flat-shaped products. The cut areas should be treated with varnish or acrylic paint. The seam can be made both horizontal and vertical.

Mounting at an angle of 45

This method is suitable for curly and rounded trim. The procedure is as follows:

Measure the height of the vertical slats from the floor. They are placed on the floor, therefore, their joints with the baseboards will be on the side. The height of the vertical elements is measured from the floor. The slats are placed on the bottom flooring, which is why the joints of the skirting boards and door frames are sideways.

Then the workpiece is cut according to the markings using a miter saw, and in its absence, using a hacksaw and a miter box. The top is cut at 45 degrees on the desired side.

Now the side trims are attached no higher than halfway, so that they bend at the top.

The upper loose parts of the platbands are folded back and the upper part is placed under them. At the joints, lines are marked at an angle of 45 degrees, then the excess part is cut off. Now you can secure the platbands in all remaining places.

Telescopic trims

The peculiarity of this type of installation is that no additional devices are required, since the design of the casing itself provides for fastening, consisting of a slot and groove. The main requirement is the presence of a protrusion between the door frame and interior partition. It is also important that the adjacent walls are level.

Installation of plastic platbands

For plastic trims, glue is used extremely rarely, since the connection with it is not reliable. The most commonly used mounting profiles are:

The mounting profile is cut to the size of the door frame (a little smaller if possible).
The joints are sawed off at an angle of 45 degrees.
The profile is fixed with self-tapping screws to the door frame. If the door is cheap (Chinese), then the mounting profile is fixed to the wall, since it will not be possible to securely tighten the screws into such a door.
The profile is screwed from the middle in two directions. At the same time, they monitor compliance with the level.
Then measure the height of the side parts and cut off their tops at an angle of 45 degrees. Next, the workpieces are inserted into the grooves of the vertical profiles, where they can move.
A fastener is inserted into the cut of the planks - corner fittings. The top is measured and cut at 45 degrees on both sides. The product is connected to vertical trims, fixed in the mounting profile.

Joining the platband with the plinth

Some people think that the trim at the bottom needs to be cut, since the baseboard should go there. It is not right. You need to cut the baseboard itself, otherwise it doesn’t look nice. Therefore, at the very beginning of the article, we said that platbands are installed before baseboards.

Plastic skirting boards have decorative plugs that allow you to make the joint of the skirting board with the platband neat.

A 45 degree cut is made on the wooden plinth. This allows you to equalize the thickness of the plinth with the thickness of the platband.

Thus, in this article we examined the topic of platbands for interior doors. By following our tips and recommendations, you can easily choose the methods of fastening and installing the planks yourself and implement them at home.