Water drainage from the bay window balcony drawing. How to make waterproofing on the balcony with your own hands - useful tips. The step by step instructions are very simple

This room will increase the resource of the load-bearing structure, which is under the influence of an aggressive environment, by 1.5 times. Moreover, waterproofing the balcony with your own hands will reduce the repair budget. This article will help you get the job done in line with existing technology.

Reinforced concrete is distinguished by the fact that it has a porous structure, and an embedded metal element is located inside its body. Water entering these pores expands at sub-zero temperatures and breaks off metal microparticles. As a result, it gradually collapses due to corrosion. For this reason, well-done waterproofing of the balcony will prevent destructive processes. So, waterproofing is necessary for:

floor slabs - two-sided processing is performed from above and below;
parapet - in addition to waterproofing, vapor barrier is also performed at the same time;
visor / roof - the truss system is being processed.

The presence of waterproofing will prevent the appearance of moisture in the air inside the room.

Even home craftsmen can perform such work without special qualifications. Below we suggest you consider the possible materials that can be used for waterproofing.

The choice of waterproofing material largely depends on the finish of your balcony. For example, a coating material is used for a surface made of tiles, stone or polyurethane. For a surface made of wood or concrete - penetrating compounds. Any selected waterproofing material will completely prevent premature destruction and high humidity.

There are several types of waterproofing materials, each of them has its own positive aspects:

Cast insulation. This type of finish serves as a water-repellent composition. However, it can quickly become damaged and lose its integrity. When choosing this insulation, a heated polymer is usually used, which processes the floor of a balcony / loggia.
Adhesive insulation. In this case, roll material is used, which is overlapped over the entire surface of the balcony. Joints are treated with a layer of special mastic. To increase the strength and effectiveness of this waterproofing, several layers are usually laid.
Paint insulation. This method is low cost and easy to use. However, if applied to a wooden surface, a number of disadvantages of this technology are revealed. As a result, sooner or later it will be necessary to update the waterproofing layer. In some cases, at sub-zero temperatures, the coating may completely crack.
Impregnation. This material penetrates deep into concrete or wood, ensuring the safety of the structure. As for the treatment of a wooden surface, impregnation is applied only in dry and warm weather. This is necessary so that the material can dry out.

In a given area, prices for waterproofing material may vary. Therefore, in each individual case, choose the material available to you.

Having settled on one of the waterproofing materials, you can get to work. The process itself looks like this:

Floor treatment.
Treatment of the entire interior surface of the room.
Processing of a peak, a roof, gutters.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for performing waterproofing work.

First of all, a number of preparatory work should be carried out:

Carefully remove the old floor covering.
Then analyze the condition of the concrete base. It is important to determine the places where it fell into disrepair, for example, concrete began to crumble into pieces.
Using a perforator, remove all loose areas.
Remove all debris from the floor with a stiff brush. As a result, the surface must be qualitatively cleaned.
If there are residues of old glue or cement on the floor surface, they should be removed.
If there are cracks, then they are treated with a grinder. In this case, a new screed will qualitatively fill all possible voids. So, if the crack is small, then slightly expand it. And if the hole is large, then trim the edges.
If there is exposed reinforcement, then remove the remains of concrete from it, and clean the rust. You can use chemicals for cleaning. This will completely clean the metal from contamination.
Now you can cover the reinforcement with an anti-corrosion compound.
To restore the concrete pavement, prime the floor surface and fill the holes with a cement-sand mortar.
It is also necessary to inspect the roof of the balcony. Determine where water can enter.
Next, you should clean the surface of the ceiling and walls from the old finishes, glue and possible plaster.
Then apply primer and waterproofing material.

If you live on the ground floor, then waterproofing on the floor of the loggia is a necessary event. It will prevent the penetration of moisture from the basement and the ground. So, first of all, seal all the side seams. Pre-clean the floor from debris and dust. Treat the concrete surface with penetrating waterproofing. When the insulation is dry, the foil vapor barrier material is overlapped. This will prevent condensation on the balcony walls.

A wooden frame is laid on top, on which the OSB plate is fastened with self-tapping screws. Finally, the finishing material of your choice is mounted on the floor.

Just like the floor, the ceiling also needs waterproofing. For this, the slab is treated with a coating or penetrating insulation composition. After that, it is necessary to close up all the existing cracks in the ceiling well. You can use silicone for this. If you live on the top floor, then a layer of roofing material is laid on top of the roof of the balcony or covered with roofing mastic. The joints between the floor slab and the wall are carefully filled with sealant. If metal tiles or tiles are used for roofing, then each joint is additionally processed with mastic.

If there are partitions or other structures on the balcony, then their waterproofing is carried out according to the same principle as the ceiling with the floor. For example, walls can be additionally covered with expanded polystyrene. It should be well glued to the wall. As a waterproofing, a coating or penetrating composition can be used.

If the balcony is completely made of wood, then the waterproofing work mainly consists in treating the boards with a special antiseptic. This is done to prevent the appearance of fungus on the surface. In some cases, it is enough to cover the floor and walls with liquid rubber on the base. After the floors are treated with finishing material.

So, we looked at how to waterproof the balcony on our own. We hope that this technology will be within your power. And if you have any questions, you can ask our expert. Also, if you have your own experience in carrying out the work of such a plan, then write about it in the comments to this article.

Video

You can learn more about how to waterproof a balcony and a loggia from the video:

Reading 9 min.

A balcony is a fenced slab that is constantly under the influence of atmospheric precipitation. In winter, moisture trapped in the pores of concrete expands, resulting in microcracks. If protection measures are not taken, then not only the balcony slab will quickly collapse, but the things on the balcony will constantly deteriorate from dampness. Each owner of a balcony should be aware of the features and methods of waterproofing.

About the features of waterproofing

Balcony waterproofing scheme

A water-repellent and watertight additional layer on the floor, ceiling and balcony partitions creates reliable protection against the damaging ingress of moisture.

Waterproofing is necessary regardless of the location of the balcony. For example, on the balcony of the first floor, moisture gets not only from the environment, but also from the basement. But the balcony on the middle floor of the house is threatened by leaks from neighbors from the top floor.

Properly performed waterproofing increases the life of the balcony without major repairs, and also increases its comfort.

Balcony waterproofing technology depends on such factors:

type of balcony: open or glazed;

location relative to neighboring balconies: next to or separately;

balcony material.

On the open balcony of the last floor, waterproofing of the roof and ceiling is mandatory. With a complex balcony configuration, liquid waterproofing is laid on the floor.

Before waterproofing a wooden balcony, all structural elements are treated with a protective material, and natural ventilation is arranged. Under the wooden flooring, a slope is made and drained to the street.

Basic waterproofing options

When choosing an option for waterproofing a balcony, not only the condition of its surface is taken into account, but also the material from which it is made.

Simultaneous use of various options on the same balcony is allowed. The main options for waterproofing are:

Balcony waterproofing works are carried out in three stages:

preparation;

choice of materials;

waterproofing installation.

Preparatory work

The quality of waterproofing work and durability depend on the preparation. Preparatory work is carried out in a certain sequence:

the base is being prepared for the waterproofing layer. It should not have loose layers and protruding reinforcement. All irregularities are cut off by a grinder;

with an iron brush, the base is cleaned of all contaminants;

concrete is removed around the protruding reinforcement. The fittings are cleaned of traces of corrosion and covered with a protective layer;

the ceiling is inspected, and the scope of work on sealing is determined;

balcony partitions are inspected, and the scope of work on sealing is determined.

It has long been established that the waterproofing of a glazed balcony is more reliable than an open one. That is why double-glazed windows are installed on the balcony before waterproofing work. Their tightness depends on the presence of an external cornice and on high-quality mounting foam.

Read also: The choice of composition for processing lining on the balcony

Material selection

The result of waterproofing equally depends on compliance with the technology of work and on the right material. Conventionally, materials are combined into several types:

When choosing, some features of waterproofing materials are taken into account.

Roll pasting materials from Folgoizolon and TechnoNIKOL are supplied in two versions for creating various types of coatings:

self-adhesive coatings - strong adhesion to the surface occurs due to the sticky bitumen layer. Aluminum foil gives the material strength. Laying such materials is a laborious, but inexpensive process.

Coating materials in the form of various mastics are easier to use. Their peculiarity is that a screed is required from above.

Mastics with bitumen are sold ready-made, so they are immediately ready for use.

Mastics with cement are purchased dry, and then diluted with water according to the instructions. The resulting mixture retains its qualities for no more than two hours, so it is prepared in small portions and immediately applied to the surface.

Step by step instructions for the floor

Depending on the materials used and the way the work is performed, various technologies for waterproofing the balcony floor are used. The following technologies are most common.

Cast way.

Reliable, but expensive technology that solves the problem of waterproofing the floor on the balcony for a long time. The moisture-repellent layer is created in two ways. If you follow the requirements of the instructions, then the work is easy to do on your own.

"Hot" option:

dust and debris are removed from the base of the floor. For this we use a vacuum cleaner;

all cracks are covered;

the concrete slab dries well. We use a building hair dryer;

the base of the floor is primed with a liquid solution of bitumen;

along the perimeter of the balcony slab, formwork made of plywood or thick cardboard up to 400 mm high is placed;

to create strength, a metal mesh is laid;

according to the instructions, the mastic is heated and poured;

with the help of scrapers, the mastic is evenly distributed over the entire balcony slab.

after drying - two more layers of mastic are laid.

"Cold" option.

It differs from the "Hot Option" in that the mastic does not warm up. The sequence of work remains the same:

the surface is cleaned and all cracks are removed;

the concrete slab is dried and covered with a primer;

formwork is installed along the perimeter of the balcony;

metal mesh creates strength for the laid mixture;

the cold mixture is poured, and then leveled with a rule or a scraper.

Coating method.

Simple technology has made this method popular with balcony owners.

Its advantages include, firstly, no special knowledge is required to apply the composition, secondly, a service life of up to 6 years, and thirdly, an affordable price. At the same time, there is a drawback: bitumen quickly collapses at a negative temperature. This limits the use of materials on open balconies without special additives.

Coating materials are applied hot or cold according to the following technology:

dirt, dust, smudges are removed from the surface;

degreasing of the coating area is performed;

2 coats of primer are applied;

a waterproofing composition is distributed on top of the soil with a brush.

Gluing method.

The technology associated with gluing several layers of sheet or roll material is familiar to many. It is equally suitable for balconies made of concrete and wood. However, this technology has rarely been used recently, due to such shortcomings:

before laying, painstaking surface preparation is required;

it is difficult to lay material with large dimensions on a small balcony area;

after laying, a specific smell from the material remains on the balcony for some time;

seams are formed between fragments of the glued material, which often leak;

temperature fluctuations adversely affect the quality of waterproofing using this technology;

the waterproofing layer is necessarily protected by a concrete screed. If it is not possible to make a screed, then another waterproofing technology is selected.

First provides for a waterproofing device on the balcony along the screed, without a drainage mat, second with drainage.

Consider first scheme on systems proposed by CERESIT and LITOKOL.

Balcony waterproofing scheme from Сerezite.

They have a lot in common. But there are minor differences:

At LITOKOL, in the area where the screed adjoins the wall, LITOSIDE is installed - a polyethylene tape for dividing joints in the screed. It is absent on the CERESET scheme. Its purpose is to compensate for the linear expansion of the screed throughout the year.
At LITOKOL, the lower seam of the plinth on the wall is filled with polyurethane sealant, and CERESET is filled with silicone, and it is also applied to the upper end of the plinth. It's hard to say how much he needs there. The lower section of the seam will be movable. If filled with cement grout, the seam will burst. There it is logical to fill with sealant. Although, Kiilto also has a similar solution, filling the top of the baseboard with silicone.

There are no other differences. With the exception of prices for all components of the waterproofing system and subsequent tiling.

Waterproofing scheme for open balconies from Litokol.

In such (first) system, the insulating layer may differ in the composition of the applied waterproofing. It could be:

Cement, one-component (as in the "CERESIT" and "LITOKOL" schemes considered above) waterproofing.
Cement, two-component, with modifying additives.
Acrylic based mastics or flexible liquid membrane.

Cement one-component waterproofing.

The basis of all mixtures of this type of insulation is cement. Water is used for cooking. The technology of preparation is similar to any mixtures - dosing of water, double mixing. The substrate must be sound and moist (priming is not available for concrete substrates, and this is typical for many one-component insulations).

Covers cracks up to 1 mm (mainly 0.75 mm)

The documentation for the use of this type of insulation lists terraces, balconies, horizontal surfaces and pools.

Cement, two-component waterproofing, with modifying additives.

Cement two-component waterproofing

The second component in this insulation (elasticizer) is a polymer dispersion, a milky-white viscous liquid. It gives high elasticity, covers cracks with an opening of up to 2 mm. Compared to single-component, tensile elongation up to 40%.

In this group there are mixtures (BOTAMENT® MD 28) with good vapor permeability. They can be applied on a fresh concrete base without waiting for full hardening.

insulating mastics.

Ready-made insulating mastics.

This is a conditional group of insulating mastics, one-component, ready for use. Some of them, like MasterSeal, are based on an acrylic polymer dispersion. Among this group there are membranes for internal and external works. Some places of use are indicated with reservations - “cannot be used in pools, underground, etc.”

This type of insulation is also called a liquid polyurethane roofing membrane.

The mastic is based on a highly elastic polyurethane resin, which gives the product mechanical, thermal, chemical and UV resistance.

The list of possible uses of polyurethane mastic is impressive: “Waterproofing of green roofs, flower beds, flower boxes. Waterproofing of old glassine and roofing material. Waterproofing and protection of concrete structures, tunnels, stadium stands, car parks.”

Polyurethane insulation outdoors.

In the case of fastening ceramic tiles to the membrane, the last layer of insulation is sprinkled with coarse sand.

Smooth surfaces (ceramic tiles) require Pu Primer.

Problem areas - wall and floor joints, 90 degree angles, pipes must be reinforced with NPG 210 mesh or fiberglass.

Reinforcement of problem areas with fiberglass.

Second system waterproofing of balconies provides for drainage after the insulating layer.

Its idea is built on the assertion that water penetrates through the seams in the tile and accumulates on the waterproofing. If it is not taken away, then in winter the tiles and glue with the insulation layer are destroyed. And in the summer, this leads to the appearance of efflorescence on the tiles.

In confirmation that the tile is not a barrier to the penetration of water into the screed, the video:

If the leveling screed is laid on the drainage mat, the water seeping through the seams will drain to the floor drain. This solution prevents the accumulation and freezing of moisture under the tiles.

The waterproofing sheet in this scheme is arranged under the drainage mat. In such a scheme, the options for installing a waterproofing sheet are expanding - bituminous materials, pool films ......

Waterproofing on the balcony with drainage.

Such a system appeared for the first time in 1985. Adherents of laying drainage under the screed consider an additional advantage of such a scheme to be that the elastic design of the mat perceives all deformations in the balcony structure. In their opinion, this prevents the appearance of cracks in the screed and seams. Such mats have long been used in the West when laying tiles on wooden floors.

An interesting solution (without a draining membrane) in the next video. It is worth disassembling it in detail, after viewing:

What is the difference from the conventional approach:

Replacing a conventional screed with a semi-dry one. What gives?

Moisture, which may in the future get into the screed, will not break it when it freezes. This is the drainage that new technologies are aiming for, but a less expensive option.

Semi-dry screed lies on the adhesive base. The adhesive creates a secure contact.

Thinking out loud or what could be improved :

For screed, instead of sand, take screenings or very coarse sand. This will further increase the drainage capacity of the screed without compromising strength.
Prepare the composition of the mixture as 1:2, or 1:1.7. The moisture content of the mixture should be slightly more than that generally accepted for semi-dry screeds (here is one of the reasons for unsuccessful examples of this method).
It is important to guess the humidity. When compressing the mixture into a fist, the water should not come out, but the hand will become wet. Water, in this composition, is sufficient for a complete reaction of cement. In addition, wet glue is smeared at the base. The solution will additionally draw moisture from the glue. This is more than enough.

If you cover the screed with a film for 6-7 days, then the strength will be like that of good concrete. But, at the same time, unlike concrete, there will be no destruction during freezing. In structure, such a screed is similar to the structure of limestones (or shell rock - one of the varieties). Stone buildings and sculptures made of limestone, which are 200 or more years old, have survived to this day (this feature must be considered separately and in detail).

Despite the draining properties of the screed, waterproofing is made on top - an additional safety net.

And one more interesting detail - the adhesive furrows are directed along the possible runoff of infiltrated moisture. Perhaps this is a coincidence. But the idea is good.

Naturally, there is a double spread of glue. If you stick to the idea of glue grooves along the drain, then applying the mixture to the tile should be “on the sdir”.

P.S.

Remaining vulnerabilities:

There is no outflow.
Around the metal racks, the first destruction is possible (not always).

There are similar ideas, but with an additional (second) balcony isolation drainage system - laying paving slabs made of natural stone on the carving from coarse sand (almost screening out of granite chips).

Also, an interesting design with drainage for balconies was recently proposed at a presentation by MAPEI.

The role of drainage is performed by adhesive furrows applied by large format teeth. The mesh is slightly sunk into the fresh glue, using a large trowel:

Drainage from glue furrows.

If water is poured onto such a structure, it will drain through the drainage channels from the adhesive to the gutter. Laying tiles is carried out on the second day, applying glue on the back side with a notched trowel and across the drainage channels:

Grouting with Ultracolor Plus elastic grout.
Laying around the perimeter, at the junction of the tiles to the gutter, a cord of pressed Mapefoam polyethylene foam.
Applying Mapeisil LM silicone sealant over the sealing cord.

Balcony waterproofing scheme from MAPEI.

In general, the durability of tile cladding on the floor of open balconies and terraces is a problem. Increasingly, there are solutions not to glue the tiles, but to lay them dry, on a layer of rubble:

Laying tiles on the balcony floor without glue.

... Or, as a constructor with drainage under the structure (video):

Below is a collection of videos (playlist) on waterproofing open balconies.

The playlist displays the top twenty foreign videos on balcony waterproofing and is constantly updated.

or on the second channel with my video.

September 9, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Few people know that the waterproofing of a balcony is one of the important and mandatory stages of its construction or decoration. For example, in my son's country house, he is located above the bay window. And if I had not taken appropriate measures in time, rain and melt water would have penetrated into the living quarters, because the tightness of the concrete slab is not enough to retain moisture.

Three days ago I was waterproofing an open balcony in my client's private home and this was a great opportunity to prepare the appropriate material for you. The instructions below describe how to do everything quickly and efficiently.

The need for waterproofing

To begin with, I want to say a few words about how important the waterproofing of a wooden balcony in a country house or a concrete loggia in a city apartment is. If you neglect this stage of construction and decoration, in the near future you risk not only losing the exquisite decoration of this room, but also encountering leaks in the rooms.

I can offhand name only the most negative consequences of the operation of balconies and loggias (especially open ones) without a waterproofing layer:

damage to the decorative material that you used to equip the auxiliary room;
corrosion of metal parts of the balcony and reinforcement of the balcony slab;
the appearance of fungi, mold and other microorganisms (this is especially dangerous if the balcony is wooden).

The worst option of all possible is a violation of the integrity of the supporting structures of the balcony. They can rot or rust to the point where the structure is dangerous to use.

It is very important to waterproof the balcony when insulating it with mineral wool heat insulators. Their technical characteristics greatly deteriorate when wet, so the layer of insulating wool must be carefully protected from the penetration of atmospheric moisture.

I will immediately note another important point. If an open balcony is waterproofed under tiles or similar flooring, measures must be taken to ensure that rain or melt water that gets inside is removed through specially equipped drain holes. Otherwise, during a heavy rain or spring snowmelt, it will quickly turn into a pool.

Waterproofing materials

I hope I have convinced you that it is necessary to protect a balcony or loggia from water. Now let's move on to the story of what materials can be used for this. Description of all the technical characteristics of each waterproofer is not the purpose of this article, so I will go through briefly:

Cast. These are polymer compositions that are heated to a fluid state and applied to the treated surfaces (most often floors). I consider excellent efficiency as a plus (the frozen polymer is absolutely hermetic and has no seams). Minus - the risk of cracks during deformation of the treated plate. As an example, I can name Drizoro Maxelastic Pur.

Painting. Materials based on bituminous resins, which, after hardening, form a homogeneous, hermetic and elastic membrane that does not allow water to pass through to building structures. I often use bituminous mastics to process balconies from the inside with my own hands. They are applied with a brush, roller or spatula and work very effectively. An example of such a material is TechnoNIKOL mastic.

Deep penetration. Waterproofing compounds (for example, Penetron), which, after being applied to wooden or mineral surfaces, penetrate into the material and form directional crystals there that retain water, but do not prevent air infiltration. This is a very effective way of waterproofing if the high price doesn't put you off.

Okleyechnaya. Rolled materials are used, which are rolled out on the surfaces to be treated and fixed on them with glue or bitumen.

The disadvantage of this method is the need to seal the joints. And the installation technology itself is quite complicated. But the cost of waterproofing membranes is low.

I use combinations of different materials in my practice. For example, if inside the waterproofing of the balcony floor can be done with coating mastic, then, for example, it is better to protect the roof with pasting membranes. And treat hard-to-reach places with penetrating impregnations.

Balcony waterproofing technology

Well, now I will go directly to the description of the process of waterproofing the balcony. Let me remind you that in my case we are talking about a balcony with a concrete floor slab and a fence, which is located on the 5th floor of a standard high-rise building in the city.

Surface preparation

I always start with careful surface preparation. To begin with, the concrete floor and part of the walls must be cleaned of old finishing materials (if any), mortar residues, oil and grease stains, dust and other contaminants that can adversely affect the adhesive properties of the floor.

For this purpose, I use a hard brush or vacuum cleaner, which quickly and efficiently removes dust from the mineral surface.

Then I treat the surfaces with a primer (), which improves the adhesive properties of the balcony floor and helps reduce the consumption of waterproofing composition. I always prime surfaces twice with intermediate drying of the layers (which takes about two hours).

During the inspection of the concrete floor slab, I found several defects in the base. If it also happened to you, listen to how to repair:

First of all, you need to remove all the pieces of concrete that themselves peel off and fall off. In these places, I additionally worked with a perforator chisel so that later the base shifts would not violate the integrity of the waterproofing layer.
I did not touch two very small cracks with a chisel, but washed down a little with a grinder with a cutting disc. Then I filled all the defects with cement mortar and carefully leveled it with a spatula (naturally, dust and debris were removed from them with a vacuum cleaner).

In one place, the slab broke off so that a piece of reinforcing bar became visible. I cleaned it with sandpaper from traces of corrosion, after which I smeared the surface with an anti-corrosion compound.

Then, from above, I also sealed this recess with a bar with cement mortar. But you can also use special repair compounds for surfaces (for example, Neocret).

Having finished with the repair, I took an elastic tape (Lipex K-2) and glued it on the joints of the horizontal surface of the floor and the vertical surfaces of the walls (the so-called movable joints). This sealing tape will allow you to maintain the integrity of the waterproof membrane with possible movements of the balcony base.

After completing all the preparatory work, you should get a surface that meets the following requirements:

The maximum allowable difference in the height of the treated surface should not exceed 2 mm.
There should be no sharp protrusions on the floor that could compromise the integrity of the waterproofing layer being formed.
Surface moisture should not exceed 4%. If this parameter is higher, excess moisture will be locked inside the floor slab, which will lead to a gradual leaching of the mineral surface and, as a result, a deterioration in the bearing capacity.

If you are going to waterproof a porous base (for example, foam blocks), then, on the contrary, you need to moisten it a little, otherwise the sealing mastic will not dehydrate properly and it will not form a waterproof layer.

Having finished preparing the surfaces, you can proceed to the preparation of the selected waterproofing material for work.

Sealant preparation

In the case I describe, I used a bitumen-polymer mastic, which was supplied in a bucket and was already ready to work without any additional effort on my part. But some waterproofing agents (for example, cement-based) are sold as a dry powder that must be prepared.

To do this, the dry mixture is poured into a container, where the required amount of water is added (the temperature of the liquid should be in the range from 15 to 20 degrees Celsius), after which the whole mass is mixed with a drill with a special nozzle. You should get a homogeneous mass without the slightest lumps.

Then you need to leave this mass for 3-5 minutes so that all the components are activated (the solution is “ripe”), and then mix it all again. The solution obtained in this way remains suitable for an hour. Therefore, you do not need to dilute a large amount of the solution, otherwise it may harden before you use it.

The cleanliness of the container is very important for the quality of the prepared solution. Never mix a new batch of mortar in the same bucket as the old waterproofing material. Otherwise, it will turn out to be a leaky waterproofing layer, but ordinary garbage, which will then have to be cleaned off and all the procedures will have to be performed again.

That is why, by the way, I prefer to use ready-made mastic.

Application of waterproofing

Well, now it's time to reveal to you all the secrets of applying mastic to the balcony floor. Here, as you understand, there is no need to be seven spans in the forehead. It is enough to take into account the following points:

You can work only if the temperature of the air and the surface to be treated is above + 15 degrees Celsius, and the humidity does not exceed 60%.
At the same time, if work is carried out on a glazed and insulated balcony, then it is necessary to create such conditions there in advance, no later than two days before the start of work. In addition, the same temperature and humidity must be maintained for 12 hours after applying the mastic so that it polymerizes normally.
I apply waterproofing on the surface of the balcony with a wide brush. If the mastic is thick, it can be smeared with a spatula.

The hardening time depends on the thickness of the applied layer and the type of mastic. Usually, further work on the installation of flooring can be carried out two days after treatment.

Features of waterproofing the ceiling

Sometimes it becomes necessary to waterproof not only the horizontal balcony slab, but also the ceiling of the balcony (for example, when it is located on the top floor). In this case, I advise you to use adhesive waterproofing with an adhesive layer activated by high temperature (gas burner or building hair dryer).

In this case, the workflow will be as follows:

I pre-cut sheets of pasted waterproofing (for example, TechnoNIKOL) into segments of the desired length.
After that, I heat the surface of the material with a gas burner.
I lay the membrane on a previously cleaned and repaired surface.
I glue the next strip so that it overlaps the previous one at a distance of about 10 cm.
After installing the first layer of waterproofing over the entire surface of the balcony, I seal the joints between the strips with liquid bitumen.
Then I lay the second layer of waterproofing, but so that the strips run perpendicular to the bottom ones. In this case, maximum water resistance is ensured.

Summary

Now you know how do-it-yourself balcony waterproofing is done. If you are interested in the features of performing work in a wooden house, you can familiarize yourself with them in the video in this article. And I would like to ask you how you waterproof the roof of the balcony on the top floor? What are you doing to keep water out? Post your answers in the comments to the article.

The use of natural materials in the construction of a home is always relevant, due to the environmental friendliness and decorative finishes. Waterproofing a balcony in a wooden house, performed in the correct sequence and subject to the technology of work, will ensure long-term operation of the structure.

Wood materials are able to hide surface defects, have good soundproofing properties, creating an optimal microclimate of the home. The exterior finish of solid wood loggias needs high-quality protection from the effects of atmospheric phenomena and temperature extremes. Waterproofing a wooden balcony is a set of measures to prevent moisture from entering the structure.

The need for work is due to:

normal functioning of the building;
increase the service life of the coating.

Strong wetting of surfaces can lead to the development of mold, reducing the decorative effect of the tree. Subsequently, the material may lose its strength and attractive appearance, and irreversible deformation of the coatings will occur. Properly executed waterproofing of a balcony in a wooden house will prevent swelling, cracks, leading to the destruction of the structure.

The technology of work depends on the type and functional purpose of the loggias. It is important to take into account the features of open and closed structures, the material of the base and finish coating.

The choice of a waterproofing layer option should also provide for the intensity of operation and the intended purpose of the balcony (recreation or work area, pantry).

Materials for work

Balcony waterproofing in a wooden house is carried out using special materials, different in purpose and application methods. Products for the floor are represented by liquid, roll, membrane and film (polymer) finishes. There are several main types of insulation for walls: painting, cast, pasting.

Wooden parts must be treated with flame retardants, special compounds with antiseptic and water-repellent properties. Fungus and mold have a destructive effect, so it is important to prevent their occurrence.

The tree will retain its attractive appearance and strength when impregnated, painted, or varnished. Transparent compositions emphasize the natural texture and pattern of the surface. The varnish is recommended to be applied on the surfaces which are previously covered with drying oil. The final layer of finish can be additionally sealed with penetrating compounds.

perforator and fixing accessories;
cement, sand, bars;
means for waterproofing and processing floors;
expanded polystyrene and OSB boards;
foil steam insulator;
sealant, polyurethane foam;
reinforced mesh.

Timely waterproofing of the balcony floor in a wooden house during construction will eliminate the need to remove the coating in the future. The work plan includes the creation of a concrete screed, the installation of a rolled insulating material coated with a bituminous or penetrating mixture. Only after completion of all stages, you can lay the board.

Waterproofing options for an open balcony

To find out how to waterproof a balcony in a wooden house correctly, the recommendations of experts will help. There should be a slight slope on the surface of the open loggia, which will help prevent the accumulation of water. Excess moisture is absorbed into the wooden floor surfaces on the balcony and leads to deformation of the material. The permissible difference in the height of the platform level is no more than 4 cm, which will preserve the hydraulic properties of the insulation.

The waterproofing layer can be made using various technologies:

Laying a special metal sheet. Insulation is installed at the stage of construction of the dwelling. Be sure to provide a gap between the coatings for ventilation.
Liquid rubber will ensure the tightness of the wooden floor. The finishing surface is removed, all cracks are sealed with mastic, and a layer of the mixture is laid. Upon completion of the work, the final installation of the external coating is carried out. It is important to consider the allowable weight for a particular type of structure.
The use of insulating boards. Sealing is achieved by laying the material under the floor finish.
Roll waterproofing, or applying bituminous mastic. The advantage of the options is the availability and low cost of materials.

High-quality waterproofing of a wooden floor on a balcony should maintain a certain sequence of work. Initially, the surface should be prepared. At this stage, if necessary, the old layer of insulation is removed. After laying the waterproofing layer, the selected finishing material is installed. In conclusion, it will be necessary to treat the tree with an antiseptic.

Having determined the option of how to waterproof a wooden balcony, it is important to maintain the correct algorithm:

laying a draft layer of rolled insulation;
insulation layer flooring;
the use of coating compositions;
finish flooring.

In the event that tiles are the final floor covering of the open loggia, it will be necessary to apply a primer and level the base before installing the insulation. The result should be a durable seamless coating.

Waterproofing technology for a closed balcony

Waterproofing the floor of a balcony in a wooden house with a closed type of construction practically does not differ from the options for open loggias. Additionally, attention should be paid to the ceiling and walls. Treating the ceiling surface with a mastic with a polyurethane composition will provide the necessary protection against moisture. On the outer plane, it is recommended to create a roof covering, or perform work similar to the floor waterproofing technology.

The general scheme for waterproofing floors consists of a coating with a liquid insulating compound, a layer of insulation, a hydro-barrier, a layer of rolled materials and a crate. In conclusion, the external roofing material is mounted. The option is suitable when using sheet-type coatings. In the case of a roof with soft tiles, it will be necessary to perform a sheathing of a continuous type in combination with rolled waterproofing materials.

To find out how to waterproof the balcony in each individual case, the list of available ways to work on the walls will help:

Gluing method. Materials with a self-adhesive base, or requiring exposure to high temperatures, are used. Roofing material, or its analogues, can also be used. The application process is quite laborious and requires special knowledge and skills during installation.
Coloring way. Provides surface coating with a protective varnish with rubber components. The disadvantage of this method is the need for frequent and regular updating of the insulation. The total cost of varnish products makes this option quite costly.
powder method. As a material for waterproofing, cement mixtures are used in combination with hydrophobic additives (tile adhesive, liquid rubber, special plaster). The resulting coating is not resistant to mechanical damage.
Water repellents. The method is based on the use of ready-made compounds that have the necessary insulating and water-repellent properties. A high degree of hydroprotection of surfaces is achieved. It is recommended to use water repellents for internal work, in external conditions the layer is subject to strong destruction under the influence of ultraviolet rays.

Proper implementation of the waterproofing technology for wooden balconies will provide reliable protection of the structure from moisture. It is possible to do the work with your own hands, using the proven advice of specialists. A high-quality waterproofing layer will prevent deformation and increase the durability of the wood material.