You can make a shower in the country. Making a summer shower out of wood with your own hands: the main stages of constructing a building on a summer cottage. How to auto-fill a tank

So, you’ve decided to build a wooden shower at your dacha with your own hands – where should you start? Of course, from choosing a location for the shower and designing it. The next stage will be.

After this, they proceed to the construction of walls. When this stage is over, you can start installing the floor, roof and installing the door. Well, now about each of these stages in more detail.

Choosing a place for a summer shower cabin made of wood with your own hands

Before you make a wooden shower with your own hands, you need to carefully choose a place for it. If the water in the shower tank is heated only from the sun, then the place for the country shower should be located only on the sunny side.

The water tank should be exposed to sunlight for as long as possible during the day, especially in the morning. In this case, the water will warm up to a comfortable temperature. It is advisable that the sun also illuminates the shower stall. In addition, it should be located in such a way that it is not blown by winds.

Also, before making a shower out of wood, the place where it will be built must be equipped with a water supply and drainage system.

For normal operation of a summer shower, high-quality drainage and quick disposal are necessary. waste water. By placing the garden shower in an elevated position, good water flow is naturally ensured. In the heat, the load on the summer shower increases significantly.

It is necessary to take into account the possibility of not only supplying clean water, but also the installation of a concrete receiving well for wastewater. To do this, you should equip a drainage hole with a volume of about 2 m. If a summer shower requires a small flow of water, then you don’t have to make a drainage system. Water after swimming will be absorbed by itself, even if there is waterproof clay in the area under the soil layer.

If a family consists of 2-3 people, then several tens of liters of warm water will be enough to take a shower. For 4 people or more, the amount of water required for a shower increases to several hundred liters.

If you make your own wooden shower with additional heating, you need to place it away from a residential building.

When constructing, you should remember the nature and properties groundwater. If the garden has sandy soil, then in the depths it is usually underlain by clay rock. Then the used water from the shower can easily seep into the soil up to the clay layer, and then it will flow into the aquifer or local reservoir. In this case, there is a danger of wastewater getting into well water.

How to make a shower out of wood: design

Before you make a wooden shower, you need to draw up its design. To do this you need to decide on the size future design. For good jet pressure, it is necessary to place the container with water at a height of 2.5 m. The convenience of the cabin is of great importance so that you can comfortably wash in the shower at any time. If the dimensions of the booth are at least 2 X 1.5 m, then inside it you can place a clothes hanger, a shelf for soap, etc.

When arranging a summer shower made of wood with your own hands, remember that the dimensions of the internal space in the stall must be at least 100 x 100 cm, so that you can freely raise your arms or bend over without bumping into the walls.

The cabin must have a shower compartment and a changing room protected from water, the width of which is usually at least 60 cm, so the internal space of the cabin for a summer shower cannot be less than 160 X 100 cm. It is advisable to design a structure of 190 X 140 cm. These parameters should be added add more wall thickness, resulting in 200 X 150 cm.

How to make the foundation of a wooden shower for a summer house with your own hands

To build a wooden summer shower with your own hands, you do not need a special foundation. The installation technology implies strict adherence to the strict verticality of the frame posts and a strong connection with the strapping. In this case, the supports should rest tightly on the pads. Compliance with these rules is mandatory, since a heavy tank of water will be installed at the top. After determining the dimensions, it is necessary to make markings, marking a rectangle on the ground with dimensions of 170 x 110 cm or 190 x 140 cm. The height of a summer country shower can be 2.5-3 m. If not large area support it will not be stable enough. To avoid the structure overturning, it is recommended to install a pile or. It is easy to erect, but it can reliably hold the shower under wind and other loads, since the 200-liter water tank has significant weight. As a material for the foundation, you can use metal pillars, metal or asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 90-100 mm and a length of 1.5-2 m. After this, four wells with a depth of 1-1.5 m must be drilled in the ground at the corners of the shower. insert pipes or pillars so that each of them rises above the ground level by at least 30-50 cm. Then, at the corners of the pillar foundation, you need to lay hewn timber with a cross-section of 100 X 100 mm.

When constructing a wooden summer shower for a dacha with your own hands, the ligation of the pillars can be done in the form of a closed strapping, starting from the top.

This foundation design is a rigid frame. It is more convenient to assemble it on the ground, and then fasten it with long bolts.

The strength of the structure is ensured by the coincidence of all axes. In addition, fastening must be done using long bolts. In this case, a water barrel with a volume of about 200 liters can be installed on the roof of the shower. A shower stall is considered the most stable if there are six foundation pillars under it. Under the columnar foundation, six holes should be dug with dimensions of 20 X 20 or 30 X 30 cm and a depth of 40-50 cm. The dimensions and depth depend on the structure of the soil. The holes must be filled with cement-sand mortar mixed with pebbles or gravel.

The places for the shower frame are ready. The base of a wooden shower frame for a dacha with your own hands should be made waterproof, with a slope towards the drain, which is connected to the used water drainage system. Between the pits it is necessary to remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 20 cm, and along the edges of the resulting pit it is necessary to strengthen the formwork from boards or plywood.

The recess under the shower can be covered with roofing felt or PVC film, but it is better to concrete it, forming a kind of waterproof pan to prevent silting of the ground under the country shower. After this, the bottom of the hole needs to be filled with sand, spilled with water, compacted, and then filled with mortar so that the platform rises 10 cm above the ground and covers the space for the foundation.

From a pan that has a slight slope, water will flow into the gutter, so the slope must also have a drainage gutter. The drainage of water from the summer shower must be organized into a special drainage ditch (septic tank) located on the site or outside it. Water must be drained through a pipe laid in a trench with a certain slope towards the drainage pit.

You can build a strip foundation up to 30 cm deep under a wooden shower with your own hands without a monolithic concrete platform. To give the future design the correct geometric shape, it is necessary to check the equality of the diagonals of the foundation using a rope or thick fishing line. After this, you can proceed to digging a trench 30 cm X 30 cm. The foundation should be poured concrete mortar, prepared from 1 part cement, 3 parts clean sand and 5 parts crushed stone small fraction(5-20 mm).

Before preparing the solution, the sand must be thoroughly sifted. The solution must be poured into the dug trench. When it has completely hardened, use a level to check the horizontalness of the foundation.

If there are any unevenness, they need to be leveled using cement-sand mortar. If you plan to constantly use the shower, then you must pour a concrete pad under the foundation or lay it out of brick in the form of a rectangle. Concreting the foundation site should be done with a slope to the side sewer pipe, and place a wooden grate on top.

How to make the walls of a wooden shower cabin for a summer house with your own hands

When building the walls of a wooden shower stall with your own hands, you should take into account that when high humidity the wood may begin to rot, so it should be treated with special anti-rot agents. It also has a number of advantages: it is an environmentally friendly, visually attractive and quite durable material.

If it is not possible to make the entire cabin out of wood, then you can use wood to build load-bearing pillars. The remaining parts will be easier to attach to wooden posts than to metal pipes. The construction of shower stall walls should begin with the construction of a rigid frame.

For a slate frame you will need four cast iron pipes, but you can use any other available material. For pipes in concrete or brick foundation You should prepare the holes, insert pipes there and concrete them for strength. When cement mortar completely dry, you need to proceed to installation slate sheets. For such a booth you will need three sheets of slate. They should be attached on three sides directly to the prepared frame.

There will be a door on the fourth side. The frame for the booth can be made of metal corners. Its two elements are the lower and upper “circles” made of metal corners. For them you can use corners 30 x 30 mm.

The third element of the frame is the connecting “circles”: pieces metal fittings with a diameter of 12 mm and the required length. For greater structural strength, the lower “circle” of the frame should be concreted into the base. It is recommended to supplement the vertical reinforcement with several wooden blocks to make it easier to attach the material used to cover the cabin.

Do-it-yourself wooden shower posts are best sheathed on both sides wooden clapboard. Such walls will reliably protect the building not only from cold, but also from heat. Since frame pillars are usually located at a distance of approximately 1 m, it is not necessary to erect an intermediate frame.

Horizontal strips can be attached directly to corner posts. For these purposes, slate, sheet asbestos cement or other materials should be used. Plastic and metal are allowed, but not recommended.

To install the simplest version of a summer shower cabin, you will need boards and bars to construct the room, as well as bricks and cement to lay the base.

After marking and preparing the base, the bars should be attached to the foundation using brackets and anchors, then sheathed with boards or clapboards. Along the perimeter, the bars must be tied in three places.

When building a shower cabin from wood with your own hands, it is recommended to choose a 100 x 100 mm beam for constructing the frame.

After laying the foundation and external piping, it is necessary to make a bandage inside the frame, which will serve as joists for the shower floor. Rigid elements (mitters) must be made between adjacent pillars, which must be installed in the thickness of the wall itself. Most often, the walls of a summer shower are arranged in the form of shields made of quarter-planed boards.

Towards the construction of the summer wooden shower must be approached thoroughly. To give the entire structure the necessary stability, it is necessary to concrete the bases of the beams or dig them into the ground. Before this, they should be tarred or coated with machine oil. In addition, they can be wrapped in roofing felt. This is done in order to prevent the wood from rotting in the ground. The supporting pillars on top should be connected to each other by a bandage made of the same timber. This will give strength to the entire structure, which can withstand weight up to 200 kg. After this, you can begin the bottom bandage, which will become the base for the shower floor.

The walls should be upholstered wooden planks, having previously treated them with drying oil, which will prevent wood rotting. It is recommended to insulate the walls using polystyrene foam or one of modern insulation materials made of foamed PVC.

Owners of dachas in summer period I have to spend a lot of time in the gardens. And working on the land is not only an opportunity to get in touch with nature and grow environmentally friendly, “homemade” products, but also hard physical work, after which you want to relax and take a shower.

The main disadvantage of many country houses is their lack of livability. Housing for seasonal residence often has neither water supply nor running water. It is impossible to take a shower in such conditions, so the best way out of the situation is to build an appropriate structure on the street, where you can quickly set up a temporary shelter, or, after spending a little time, build a beautiful structure made of wood with one or two sections (this could be a shower and a locker room, or shower and utility room).

Among the undoubted advantages of this wooden structure include:

aesthetic appearance;
environmental safety;
warmth (the material is pleasant to the touch, and you can stand barefoot on the floor for a long time);
ease of installation;
relatively low cost (especially for assembly from scrap materials - timber and boards left over from previous construction work are used).

The obvious disadvantages are:

dependence of water heating on the weather (for example, rain will not allow you to take a shower);
the unsuitability of the building for use in the cold season, when gardening work is still underway.

For construction have a nice shower On average, only two to three days of work are required.

Of course, the owners need to have the skills of a joiner and carpenter, be able to draw up a plan and have general ideas about plumbing. If you don’t have the opportunity or skills to build it yourself, purchasing a ready-made outdoor one may be a good choice. It will cost more than construction materials, but installation time will be reduced.

Main types

Exists several common design options such dacha building. Each owner can choose the one that seems most acceptable to him (or easy to assemble):

The rack is the simplest open structure, which includes only two walls and plumbing fixtures mounted on one of the walls.
Panel - design involves fastening plumbing fixtures(watering can and tap) directly on the wall of the house or fence. Instead of walls, a curtain made of opaque polyethylene is used.
A separate room in a ready-made building - such a design requires proper removal of water and steam. A house or a pure outbuilding (part of it) can be used as the main structure.
A full-fledged cabin is the best option, allowing you to take into account the features of the terrain and turn the shower into a real decoration of the yard or garden, organically complementing the design. The booths can have one or two sections. Two-section construction is very practical! In addition to the shower room, under one roof can be accommodated:, utility block with tools, or a comfortable changing room.

In fact, only the last option in the form of a separate cabin can be considered a full-fledged wooden shower for a summer house. This is exactly the design that many owners strive to implement. summer cottages.

What is taken into account during construction?

Design features are largely determined technical requirements to the shower cabin:

the dimensions of the structure are selected taking into account the largest family member (his height is especially important);
the location must correspond to the main technical standards(for solar heating of water, open areas are selected, and a shower with electric heating elements can be installed in any convenient place);
the frame is calculated taking into account the weight and size of the tank (up to 40 liters of water are consumed per person, plus a reserve of 20-25 liters) - the entire structure must withstand a filled one.

It must be remembered that showers can be open and closed type(with door and main walls). They have natural heating of water in the tank from sunlight or use forced heating through electric heating elements. They are built with one section or two or three sections. These technical issues also affect the appearance of the building.

A typical shower structure consists of the following: main elements:

floors with built-in drain;
housings with a door (frame);
plumbing fixtures (taps and watering cans);
tank or barrel for water (installed on the roof).

However, if there is a lack of funds or unwillingness (inability) to engage in construction work, no one forbids the owners to make do with a stand or panel. This solution to the problem is relevant if the area allows you to hide from prying eyes and take a shower in peace.

How to choose a design?

In choise appearance The owners have no restrictions on the shower construction. This can be different decoration and styling (for example, like a Russian tower), different location on the site (separately, next to a pool, house or other building), the presence or absence of a door (windows, roof, solid walls - often only circular curtains are used) .

There are buildings that include additional sections, or have open terrace for relax. Some homeowners decorate the shower walls with hanging flower pots or paint them in bright, rich colors. Everything in design depends on the imagination and wishes of the owners! The main thing is that the building fits into general form yard or garden.

How to build?

On initial stage the owners need to draw up a plan for the future building, determining its size and location.

Here are some projects for a summer shower made of wood:

Using an accurate plan, it will be easier to calculate the required amount of building materials. Timber is used for the base of the frame and the floor; the walls and floor are sheathed with boards. The door is made from the same material. The foundation requires pipes with a diameter of 9 centimeters, which serve as the basis for the pile structure.

We are installing a sewer system

The most important element designs is . It is with ensuring the drainage of used water that construction begins. Moreover, you can also use an existing one, if it is available on the site. If there is a drainage hole or not, it is necessary to equip a septic structure from. To work you will need:

five to seven old tires;
wire to strengthen the structure;
boards or a finished manhole cover.

The hole is dug two to three meters from the shower. It is not recommended to place it directly under the building! This may result in the appearance of unpleasant odor or erosion of the foundation. To ensure slow filtration of water into the ground, sand and crushed stone (at least 50 cm) are poured into the bottom of the pit, and then tires fastened together are installed. Water is drained through a plastic pipe buried in the soil or through a gutter. To do this, a hole of suitable size is cut in the top tire.

Building the foundation

The foundation is a structure on piles. Four pipes with a diameter of 9 centimeters are concreted at the corners of the future building. Each of them rises above the ground by 15-20 centimeters. Studs are welded to the top of the pipes. The ground under the building is covered with several layers of roofing material, giving this kind of pallet a slope towards the drain pipe or gutter. The pallet can also be made of concrete.

The bottom trim is made of timber measuring 10 by 10 centimeters. The structure is attached to the piles using nuts and a stud already present on each pipe. The beams are tightened together with self-tapping screws and secured into a lock. To prevent rotting, lubricate the harness with used machine oil!

We install the frame, floor and roof

A frame is installed on the base; it is also made of beams. At the top there are side posts and racks forming doorway, tied with an upper bandage, also made of timber.

The floor is made of boards 1.5-2 cm thick. A small gap is left between the boards - this lattice structure does not interfere with a person’s standing and ensures free flow of water.

The outside walls are sheathed with boards, tightening the structure with self-tapping screws. At the top, between the roof and the ceiling, there are gaps of 20-30 centimeters - they act as ventilation windows and at the same time let daylight into the cabin.

The upper floor is made of boards, but only two beams can be laid and secured with self-tapping screws, serving as the base for a water tank. All recommended wooden parts pre-coat the structures with drying oil. This material will serve as a primer for the paint and prevent water absorption.

We supply the shower with a tank

A plastic or metal barrel is used as the main container.

It is advisable to cover it with dark paint for better heating water in the sun.

The optimal capacity is from 100 to 200 liters. Additionally, the roof can be covered galvanized metal or place foil under the barrel - the sun's rays will be reflected from the polished surface and absorbed by the walls of the barrel, thereby speeding up the process of heating the water.

A plastic or metal pipe with a tap and watering can is mounted to the tank. To do this, a suitable hole is cut or drilled in the bottom of the barrel, through which a pipe with external thread at the end. Stacked on top and bottom rubber seals, and then the pipe is tightened with a nut. The tap (valve) is installed using a tee, to the lower end of which a watering can is attached with or without a hose (depending on the wishes of the owner).

Door installation

At the final stage, the door is installed. Loops are used for fastening. Additionally, you can install an internal deadbolt and an external hook. The inside of the cabin is equipped with hooks for towels and a hanging soap dish. At this point, construction work is considered completed.

Summer is a great time for a country holiday. It can be overshadowed by the lack of a shower, since a person, regardless of whether he is working or resting, needs to perform water procedures.

If the dacha is used only in summer time, then the easiest way to organize a shower is on site. You can make a mobile shower, or build a solid outbuilding.

Portable summer shower

You can find it in stores foot shower. There is no need to build or carry out anything to operate it. As a rule, you only need a small container of water to use it.

An existing hose is lowered into the container and connected to the pump. It resembles a small rug. The water comes out through a hose with a watering can, and for it to flow, a person just needs to mark time in one place.

This device is simply irreplaceable, as it is suitable not only for the garden, but also for picnics, and you can take it with you on hikes.

With its help, water procedures can be carried out not only on the street, but also in the house when it is very cool outside.

To do this, you just need to put a basin and wash yourself. Another advantage of a mobile shower is self-adjustment water temperature. Such a shower at the dacha simply cannot be replaced.

Stationary shower

Many summer residents are interested in how to make a stationary shower. This option is quite expensive compared to the first. However, it will serve you for many years.

Before you start construction, you need to think about where the water will drain from it. It’s good to have an antiseptic on site. You can drain the shower into it.

If it is missing, then you need to make a hole and fill the bottom with expanded clay. A family needs a pit measuring 60x60x60 cm.

If the soil is dominated by sand, the walls of the recess will have to be strengthened so that they do not crumble. Suitable for this metal grid or boards that are no longer needed.

Shower base

As a rule, a shower building weighs little. Therefore, there is no point in making a foundation for it; it can be replaced with blocks. They are aligned to the same level so that the structure stands level.

This is much cheaper than a foundation, and takes much less time for construction, since the foundation must dry, and the building can be immediately erected on the blocks.

The blocks should be placed 20 cm from the ground, this is necessary so that the wood does not rot.

If you are going to make a structure from metal, then the blocks do not need to be leveled at a level of 20 cm. Such a frame can be installed on ordinary paving slabs.

Construction

There are two types of construction. The first is when the building is divided into several parts. In one part there is a shower, in the other there is a locker room or technical room where the boiler is installed.

Note!

The second type is a simple shower with a curtain, where only water procedures will be performed. Therefore, the dimensions of the shower are calculated based on what kind of construction is planned.

Types of frame

Metal. The frame can be made of profiled pipe, 3 mm in size. For the work you will need a welding machine.

It is best to weld the pipe joints, this will make the structure stronger. If the device is missing, then the joints can be fastened with special bolts.

Tree. For construction you will need timber. Typically, timber measuring 50x50 mm is used. Before starting construction, you need to make a drawing of the shower in the country.

Shower trim

After the frame has been erected, the shower needs to be covered with material. There are no specific standards for the material. Everyone chooses according to their own pocket.

Let's highlight the most popular materials:

oilcloth;
textile;
wood;
slate;
polycarbonate

Water container

You can use absolutely any container as a tank. Basically, these are metal or plastic barrels. They can be purchased at any construction and country stores.

Note!

When choosing, consider your region of residence. For southern cities, any container is suitable, but for northern regions only a metal one, as it heats up faster.

Shower tray

It is best to purchase a ready-made pan, since it will have a drain that will directly drain into the pit. The pallet is made of plastic or metal. Metal will last much longer, so it is advisable to choose it.

Making a summer shower in the country is not so difficult. The main thing is to approach the design thoroughly and calculate in advance the amount of material required.

For clarity, you can look at a photo of a summer shower at the dacha with your own hands. It will make your stay comfortable and enjoyable.

Photo of a shower in the country with your own hands

Note!

It is recommended to install a garden shower on a personal plot in the following cases:

the country house does not have utility networks. The lack of running water significantly complicates the installation of a stationary shower indoors;
The garden house is used only for short-term recreation in the summer. If you build a shower stall in such a room, then problems arise. big problems with preparation for its negative temperatures. It is necessary to completely remove water from the system, prevent freezing of pipelines, etc.;
in order to save energy. Water for a garden shower can only be heated by sunlight. If you want to expand the functionality of the shower stall, you can connect electric heating, but use it only in adverse weather;
financial resources do not allow the construction of expensive capital bathrooms.

The presence of a garden shower significantly increases the comfort of relaxation in a country plot; you can wash yourself in it after working in the garden beds, etc. It is impossible to list all possible options for arranging a garden shower in one article; each owner can make his own changes depending on preferences, skills, and characteristics terrain of the site and financial capabilities.

To make it easier for inexperienced builders to choose the best option for a garden shower, we present a table of the most commonly used designs with a brief description of their characteristics.

Name of structural element	Technical description
Frame	Can be made from wooden blocks or rolled metal. The dimensions of the bars are approximately 50x50 mm; slats measuring at least 20x30 mm are used to make side stops. It is better to make a metal frame from square or rectangular pipes measuring at least 20x20 mm.
External surface cladding	All lining options are suitable, including natural ones. Widely used profiled metal sheets, cell phone or monolithic polycarbonate. The cheapest options are plastic film or thick fabric.
Water drainage	Some options may have special septic tanks, and most do not require storage tanks. Several tens of liters of water are quite successfully absorbed into the soil, especially if its composition is sandy or sandy loam.
Water tanks	Both metal and plastic containers are used. The best option is to buy shower containers in specialized stores. The minimum container volume is 100 liters, external surfaces must be painted black.
Water heating	Sunlight or combined with the use of electric heating elements. It is recommended to make a specific choice taking into account the climate zone where you live and the time you use the shower.

Garden shower

The construction of a shower consists of several stages; compliance with them allows you to avoid many troubles.

Stages of constructing a garden shower

The conditions listed below for placing a garden shower will increase the comfort of its use, reduce the amount of construction work and increase the time of use. These conditions are considered universal and must be taken into account when constructing any construction option.

Location. The shower should be located in a well-lit area of the garden, preferably on a hill. If the land is sandy or sandy loam, then this arrangement will allow you to do without a septic tank or dirty water storage tank.
The distance between the shower and the residential building should be minimal. It may be adjacent to outbuildings, garage, etc. The main thing is that after water procedures there was a place for shelter, which would eliminate the possibility of hypothermia in unfavorable weather.
Methods for filling a container under water. In all cases, the distance from water sources to the shower stall should be small.

After the issues with the location of the structure have been resolved, you should decide on the size and type of structure, and materials of manufacture. As we mentioned above, the choice is huge and depends only on the owner of the site.

Instead of building a frame, you can place the shower head on one of the walls of existing buildings, having previously taken special measures to protect it from moisture. There are options for placing a shower rail in an open space (vertical support, tree branch, etc.).

An original solution - the water tank is installed on the ground, and the supply is ensured using a special device, the so-called “treadmill”. It looks like a rubber mat with built-in water supply pumps. You need to press on them one by one with your feet, water is sucked out of the container and supplied under pressure to the shower head. At the same time physical exercise, and shower. An excellent option, you can install it anywhere in your summer cottage. To set up such a garden shower you do not need any construction skills, materials or time.

In this article we will dwell in detail on two more complex, but also more comfortable options. To build these structures you need construction material and a little time and experience. The frame materials are wood or profiled steel. The standard dimensions of the structure are 100x100 cm around the perimeter and 220 cm in height. You shouldn't reduce it, it will be inconvenient to wash. If you want to do it in your heart separate place for changing clothes and storing bath accessories, you can increase the perimeter of the structure.

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower with a wooden frame

Step 1. Make the markings concrete slab grounds. To simplify water drainage, it is recommended to leave a recess in the middle of the shower for natural moisture absorption. The fertile layer must first be removed from the ground and sand cushion 10–15 cm thick, compact and level the area.

Step 2. Prepare the formwork. You need to make two square boxes. One with a square side of approximately 100×100 cm, the second inner one with a square side of approximately 60×60 cm. The height of the formwork is at least 10 cm; for manufacturing, use boards approximately 20 mm thick and 10–15 cm high. If you are afraid that the boards will bend under load concrete, then reinforce the formwork around the perimeter with wooden or metal pegs. Check the corners with a square; the formwork can be assembled using ordinary nails.

Step 3. Place the formwork on the prepared site and check its position. The small box should be located exactly in the center of the large one.

Step 4. Prepare the concrete for pouring. For manufacturing you will need cement, sand and gravel in a ratio of 1:2:3. The accuracy of the proportions does not matter much; the strength is quite enough for light loads. Fill the formwork with concrete and use a level lath to level the top surface horizontally. Allow approximately 10 days for the solution to set.

Step 5. Dismantle the formwork and begin making the frame. It will require bars measuring 50x50 mm or more; the amount of material can be easily calculated. It is necessary to add the length of four vertical posts to the sum of the two perimeters.

Step 6 Make a base for the vertical posts. You can connect the bars in half a tree; a jumper should be made in the middle of the base; it will serve as an additional support for the wooden shower grate. Make sure that all corners are right; you can connect the bars with nails or self-tapping screws. The base bars (frames) should lie approximately in the middle of the concrete slab; the specific dimensions do not matter.

Important. Be sure to soak the base several times with an effective antiseptic. There is no need to install waterproofing between the frame and the concrete; it will only cause harm. The fact is that water gets on top of the insulation and cannot be absorbed into the concrete. Consequently, wooden structures contact with water for a long time.

Step 7 Saw off the vertical posts to size, you need 4 of them. It is better to cut by hand electric saw, if it is not there, then you can use an ordinary hacksaw.

Step 8 Begin installing the vertical posts. For fixation, it is better to use galvanized metal corners. They greatly simplify and facilitate the work and guarantee proper stability of the structure. It is impossible to install vertical racks yourself; hire an assistant. Temporarily secure the racks with any pieces of boards; later they will be replaced with real stops. Constantly check the verticality of the racks, use a level.

Step 9. Make a second square from the bars, the dimensions are identical to the first, a water tank will be installed on it. If the container has a large volume, then you will have to install several additional jumpers; the distance between them depends on the size of the container.

Step 10 Using corners, secure the top square to the vertical posts. Check all frame elements with a level and correct errors if necessary. You can place wooden wedges at the joints; this will not affect the strength and stability of the structure.

Step 11 One by one, remove the temporary spacers and install the permanent ones. Use the same bars as for making the frame. The length of the spacers should be equal to the distance between the vertical posts; saw the ends at an angle of 90°. For fixation, use the same galvanized metal corners. Spacers are the most critical component of the frame; take all measures to ensure maximum strength.

Step 12 The frame is ready - start covering the side surfaces. Any material can be used for cladding. You can make doors to enter or use a retractable curtain. If the cladding is solid, then windows should be provided under the ceiling. Leave ordinary holes; you can cover them with glass or film. It is recommended to seal the sheathing cuts at the outer corners with even edged boards.

Step 13 Place a container of water on the roof of the frame.

Practical advice. If you plan to take a shower in rainy weather, then you should cover the roof with a piece of metal profile and make a hole under the outlet of the shower head.

Step 14 Paint wood surfaces with durable exterior paint.

You can install electric heating elements in the tank to heat water, but you must certainly follow the rules of the Electrical Regulations.

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower with a metal frame

To make the frame you will need a metal profile pipe, an angle grinder, a welding machine, a tape measure and a level.

After manufacturing, it is recommended to protect metal surfaces from corrosion processes with paint for exterior use. The amount of metal is determined based on the dimensions of the frame, as we described above. It is better to use a purchased water container; the length and width of the structure are adjusted according to its size.

Step 1. Draw a sketch of the frame indicating the length of each element. Take your time, carefully consider ways to strengthen the vertical posts. To strengthen loaded units, you can use pieces of rolled sheet metal with a thickness of at least 1 mm. Prepare squares or triangles with a side of 10–15 cm from it. Make sure that the angle is right and the cuts are even.

Step 2. Cut the blanks with a grinder. It is necessary to cut in compliance with all safety regulations; the grinder is a very dangerous tool. If you have many identical parts, it is recommended that you first accurately measure and cut one, and then use it as a template. This increases the accuracy of the elements.

Important. Make sure that the cutting disc rotates in in the right direction. At correct installation sparks should fly towards the master, but some people find it inconvenient to work this way and change the direction of rotation. This is very dangerous; while biting, the grinder is thrown onto the worker, which can cause serious injuries. It is impossible to hold the tool with your hands; the ejection force is too great.

Step 3. Start welding the frame. In order for the weld to be strong, maintain the welding conditions. The electrode thickness and current indicators depend on the profile parameters. For the frame, it is enough that the pipes have a wall thickness of 1–2 mm; such rolled products have the required physical strength and will fully withstand the load of a water tank. For welding, we recommend using a Ø 2 mm electrode; make sure that the slag is evenly blown off the surface of the molten metal and the seam is continuous.

How to weld a structure correctly?

Prepare a level workspace; the dimensions should be such that the largest elements can fit freely.
Place the two parts to be welded on the workbench and check their position under the square. As we already mentioned, the angle should be right and the parts should lie in the same plane.
Tack the parts on one side, the length of the tack is no more than a centimeter, give the metal time to cool. During cooling, the unit will move to the side and the correct position will be disrupted.
Using a hammer, trim the corners and turn the pieces over to the wrong side. Check the dimensions and spatial position again.
Carefully weld the parts on the other side, now you can make a seam along the entire length.
Turn the assembly over again and make a full tack weld. Weld metal pipes on all sides at the same time.
Remove slag from the surface of the weld and check the quality of the weld. If there are large shells, then re-suture.
Use a grinder to remove sharp metal stains.

Thus, you can independently prepare two side planes of the frame; all that remains is to connect them into single design. It is very difficult to do this alone; it is better to call an assistant. One will hold the elements, and the second will weld them. You need to constantly check the corners, don't rush. Practice shows that reworking an incorrectly welded frame always takes much more time than carefully checking the dimensions and spatial position during the preparation of structural elements.

It is better to make vertical posts and a platform for the tank from a rectangular or square pipe, with the same dimensions as the round one, they have significantly best characteristics physical strength for bending and compression. As jumpers, in addition to sheets at the corners, you can use any wire rod, square or reinforcement. Pieces left profile pipe of sufficient length - use them.

Step 4. At the bottom, weld a platform for the sheathing boards. The dimensions do not matter, it is intended only for support. The grille can be made non-separable or assembled from individual elements. For manufacturing, take smooth lumber; the thickness of the boards or slats should support the weight of the washable ones. If you have thin materials, then make several jumpers for them.

Step 5. Install the frame over the shower location. It could be concrete platform or ordinary temporary stops made of stone. The second option is preferable for several reasons. Firstly, there is no need to deal with earthen and concrete works. Secondly, at any time, if necessary, the shower can be moved to another place.

Metal frame - old lattice, wound with wire

If you weld legs with support platforms made of sheet steel at the bottom of the vertical posts. The dimensions of the platforms are approximately 20x20 cm, this is enough to guarantee the stability of the structure. Such a platform makes the shower more mobile when moving; for installation you only need to slightly level the ground under the supporting platforms; this work takes a few minutes.

Practical advice. Many people are concerned about water drainage. If your booth is located near the entrance of the house, and everywhere on the plot sidewalk paths, then it is recommended to make a dirty water storage tank. If the shower is located at the back of the buildings, then you don’t have to waste time and effort on building outlets. For hygiene procedures, 10–15 liters of water is enough for one person; such a small amount will be absorbed into the ground without any problems. For complete peace of mind, you can dig a hole under the shower for 2-3 car tires, water will accumulate in it. After moving the frame, the tires are removed and the hole is filled with earth.

Step 6 Align the cabin, make sure that the racks are strictly vertical and the platform for the container is horizontal.

Step 7 Clean the surface metal structure from rust, oil stains and dirt, check the stability of the frame with your hands. Everything is normal - you can start painting. Choose the color of the paint as desired, the main thing is that it is suitable for painting metal surfaces and for outdoor use. Don’t be too lazy to do the painting very well, use brushes, carefully rub the paint into the frame. If one layer is not enough for uniform coverage, you will have to repeat.

Metal frame coated with primer

Step 8 Place a container under water on the top platform and attach a shower head. If desired, you can do additional outlet for collecting warm water for various household purposes.

Water supply through a tee with taps on taps

If there are no doors in the cabin, and only a plastic curtain is hung, then the wind can blow it inside the cabin. This creates some inconvenience when taking a shower. There are several ways to correct the situation:

Attach to the curtain in several places of attachment. Two approximately in the middle of the height is enough.
Hang any “hangings” next to the plastic curtain. The main selection criterion is weight. The heavier they are, the better they will hold the curtain.

If you want to increase the comfort of taking a shower, then it is better to attach a door. For its manufacture, you can use both lumber and rolled metal. The design of the doors is elementary; they are hung on vertical side supports.

When making the frame, think about this point; little material and time will be required, but the convenience of using the shower will increase significantly. The compartment also needs to be equipped with wooden gratings for the feet.

Silicone mat to prevent feet from slipping on wet boards

If children will use the shower, be sure to install a shower head with a flexible hose for them. Place the water supply switch tap at such a height that children can reach it without any problems.

Video - Garden shower options

A summer resident who wants to preserve his health and good spirits, after field work must wash off the dust and put on clean clothes. And for this, a shower cabin is needed on the site. You can make such a structure with your own hands, observing all the subtleties of construction.

Types of country shower

The problem of adopting hygiene procedures at a summer cottage can be solved in several ways. Let's look at them, moving from simple to complex.

Portable

The portable device is sold as a set in a suitcase container. There are two varieties:

with a soft polymer hanging bag with a volume of 16–20 l, equipped with a sprayer;
with a pump - suction depth up to 1.5 m - to which a shower head is connected using a hose.

You can simply hang a bag or watering can on a tree, but then you will have to wash in a swimsuit or swimming trunks. To take a full bath, you will need to build something like a shower cabin from an opaque rolled material, for example, polyethylene film or polypropylene (PP) tarpaulin, which is preferable as it does not stick to the body.

The lightweight shower structure can be installed anywhere - no foundation is required for its installation

The easiest way to place such a fence is near the wall of the house. Firstly, it is convenient to attach a cornice to the wall for hanging curtains, therefore, there is no need for racks; secondly, in this case, fencing is required only on three sides. Thus, the cornice can be made semicircular by bending a heated PP pipe.

Pins or pieces of pipe are embedded into the wall onto which the cornice will be mounted. You will also need to attach a holder for hanging a bag or shower head with dowels.

Placing the shower near the wall of the house helps save materials

The advantages of a portable shower are as follows:

low cost;
mobility;
there is no need not only for any construction, but even for organizing a cesspool: water can flow directly into the flowerbed.

It is clear that one should not expect anything special from this purely camping option. The disadvantages will be:

Possibility of operation only in hot weather;
no water heating;
the impossibility of frequent and long-term use, since the soil in the place where the water drains can quickly turn sour.

Modular

A modular shower is a completely finished cabin, often equipped with adjustable legs. The owner of such a shower will also not have to deal with drainage issues, since there is a built-in septic tank inside, the filler of which will need to be changed periodically.

The module is fully equipped and ready for use

The only drawback is the significant cost, which not every summer resident is willing to accept.

Light summer shower

For a summer shower, a frame is made from polypropylene pipes, covered with rolled or rigid sheet material. Walls can also be formed from available materials, for example, from willow vines like wattle.

A garden shower with a wicker cabin looks attractive in a summer cottage

But it is best to use matte (non-visible) polycarbonate sheet - it partially transmits solar heat. An attractive feature of this material is that it can be bent to form a rigid, self-supporting wall (prestressed structure). Thus, racks for a round polycarbonate shower cabin will not be needed - the frame will consist only of two rings of PP pipe (they are also pre-stressed), located at the top and bottom.

Polycarbonate is not visible, but transmits well sunlight

The requirements for polycarbonate are minimal: the cheapest 4 mm sheet with a 2R structure from any manufacturer will do.

A small water tank is installed on top of the cabin, which may have an electric heater (such tanks are commercially available today).

The water tank can be heated

Being designed for full-scale use, such a shower requires a cesspool, and therefore cannot be attached to the wall of the house. In order to avoid the foundation being washed away by infiltration, the cesspool must be at least 15 m away from the house. But the construction still cannot be considered complex, since a lightweight and flexible building, even with high heaving soil, does not require a foundation.

All that needs to be done is to remove the fertile layer of soil and fill it with sand and crushed stone in layers of equal thickness (minimum 15 cm each), then drive reinforcing bars into the ground on which the frame will be placed.

In case of distortion due to soil movements, the frame is made collapsible, connecting PP pipes and corners not by welding, but by self-tapping screws (for this, the corners need to be taken one size larger). The shower will be easy to repair by replacing damaged parts. Self-tapping screws must be phosphated - they can be recognized by their black color. Diameter - 4.2 mm.

It is best to use PP tarpaulin as soft covering. In cool weather, a cabin made of such material will be warmer than a polyethylene one, and in hot weather it will not be so stuffy.

A significant disadvantage of a light shower is that it is only suitable for use in warm weather.

All weather

"All-weather" means the ability to use throughout the entire summer season, including early spring and late autumn, when it is relatively cold outside. The building is also frame, but in comparison with the previous version it has a number of improvements:

in addition to the washing department, there is a locker room;
the walls are equipped with insulation;
heating is present.

The frame must be built from wood or rolled metal - PP pipes have too low strength. Due to the poor resistance of these materials to moisture, it has to be raised above the ground, which requires a pile or columnar foundation. The durable frame allows you to install a larger water tank.

All-weather shower has two compartments

Capital

A building constructed from brick or foam blocks. Construction is labor-intensive and expensive, but in terms of durability, such a shower is significantly superior to all others.

The foundation can be made as a solid monolithic slab- due to the small size of the structure, it will not require large expenses.

A major shower requires a foundation

Choice of frame material

Before starting construction, you need to select the frame material. As it was said, plastic pipes disappear due to insufficient strength, so you have two options to choose from: wood or rolled metal.

Wood

Positive sides:

low cost;
ease of processing.

The disadvantage is a short service life due to susceptibility to rotting and drying out.

Beams of a certain cross-section are suitable for the frame

Specifically you will need the following lumber:

for the bottom trim: insulated shower - timber with a section of 150x150 mm, lightweight - from 60x60 mm (optimal - 100x100 mm);
for racks, oblique connections and top harness: board with a section of 100x40 mm.

Rolled metal

It is important to understand that in this case we are not talking about galvanized metal profiles with a thickness of 1.5–2.5 mm - this material is not suitable for such tasks. A channel with a height of 50–80 mm is used as the lower frame; the posts and other frame elements are made of a square pipe from 25x25 mm with a wall of 1.5 mm to 40x40 mm with a wall of 2 mm.

A shower with such a frame will cost much more than a wooden one, and it is also more difficult to build - steel is more difficult to process, and electric welding will be required to connect the parts. But the gain will be significant: the frame will be stronger and more durable.

Metal construction is more durable

Calculation of shower sizes

The drawing shows the dimensions of the shower

Choosing a waste disposal method

Even if a cesspool or septic tank for a toilet has already been built on the site, the shower room must be equipped with a separate structure. This is explained by the presence in the shower drains of a large amount of alkali and surfactants, which can destroy the beneficial microflora in the septic tank.

Sanitary standards require making cesspools with a volume of 2 m3 or more. But this requirement is relevant for standard drains. In the case of a shower, their value will be much smaller, so the volume of the pit can be reduced. Since, due to the need to heat the water, showers one way or another have to be taken with long pauses, its size can be taken equal to the volume of the shower water tank.

Another important question is how deep wastewater can be dumped into the ground so that the chemicals it contains do not poison the fertile layer. With a volley discharge of up to 50 l or a gradual discharge of up to 100 l/h, the safe depth is two thicknesses of the fertile layer. A country shower fits well into these figures.

Therefore, instead of a full-fledged cesspool, you can make a drainage well from metal barrel height 0.85 mm and volume 200 l. We can guarantee that such a height will certainly be enough, since a fertile layer with a thickness of over 40 cm is quite rare in summer cottages.

If the thickness of humus is small, you can also use plastic barrel smaller sizes, the main thing is that it should not be smaller in volume than the shower water tank.

You can build such a well directly under the shower stall.

The volume of the wastewater receiver must be no less than the storage tank

If you decide, as is often advised, to make a drainage well from old tires, then do not forget to periodically disinfect it with bleach: internal space tires, the water will stagnate.

Preparing tools

The builder must have the following available:

pegs and a roll of twine - for marking the territory;
garden auger;
shovels and bayonet shovels;
bubble and water (hose) levels;
plumb line;
roulette;
wood hacksaw;
grinder with cutting disc for metal;
drill;
hammer, screwdriver (or screwdriver);
marker, chalk or pencil for marking materials.

At the shower installation site, the top fertile soil layer is completely cut down to the underlying layer.

Construction of a pile foundation

Piles must be installed at the corners of the building and, if necessary, along the perimeter, so that the distance between adjacent supports does not exceed 1.5 m. The length of the piles must be selected so that their lower end rests on non-freezing soil, and the head is located at a height of approximately 30 –45 cm above the ground. This height is determined by the sum of the heights of the low tray (see below), the siphon attached to it and ventilation gap, which should be 20–25 cm.

The height of the pile above the ground should be approximately 30–45 cm

Bored piles should be used. They are created in the following way:

If the soil is weak and you need to increase the support area, get a camouflage attachment for the drill. It allows you to make a widening at the base of the well, in which, after pouring concrete, a so-called camouflage heel is formed.

Another option: you can use sections as piles steel pipe with a diameter of 60 to 150 mm, the ends of which are flattened by blows of a sledgehammer. For driving, the same sledgehammer or headstock, made from a suitable piece of cast iron, is used. The disadvantage of such piles is the high corrosion rate, which is due to the lack of waterproofing. In a bored pile, the concrete is protected from moisture by a pipe (the asbestos one must be coated with bitumen mastic).

Construction of a drainage well

The well is constructed in the following sequence:

A pit is dug with a depth equal to the height of the barrel.
The barrel with the bottom cut off is installed in the recess. If it does not have a lid, but only a narrow neck, then an inspection hatch must be cut out in the upper plane. You will need to choose a tight-fitting lid for it.
The pit is backfilled.
Fine crushed stone is poured inside the barrel in a layer 15–20 cm thick.
Crushed stone is a good filter
Liquid is poured evenly onto the backfill in a thin stream. clay mortar, prepared at the rate of 1–1.5 kg of clay (any will do) per bucket of water. Stop pouring the solution only when it completely covers the crushed stone.
After the solution has dried (it will take 1–2 days), the filter should be thoroughly stirred by repeatedly piercing the entire surface with a sharpened reinforcing rod. If you have a welding machine, then for ease of use top part The barrels can be cut off, and after laying the filter, welded again.
There is a filter inside the plastic container

Frame construction

You can start building the shower frame.

Floor arrangement

The floor in the shower should be made of tongue and groove boards, which are laid along the short side of the building. With a thickness of 40 mm, the boards can have a span of up to 1.5 m without supports, therefore, logs will not be needed.

The tongue and groove board is laid along the short side of the shower stall

To protect wood from moisture and rotting, it is best to use the following method:

The boards are treated twice with a water-polymer emulsion with a time interval of about 1 hour between treatments.
The wood then dries overnight. This process can be accelerated by placing the material in the sun. Then, if the weather is warm (in the shade +22 °C or more), it will be ready by the evening (if processing is performed in the morning).
The next stage is impregnation with an antiseptic. It is advisable that it be warm outside and that the boards warm up well in the sun before processing. Please note that some formulations are intended for processing under pressure - read the instructions carefully.
After 4 hours, acrylic varnish is applied in two layers. The second layer - after the first has dried (usually dries within a day). When the second layer has dried, you can begin laying the boards.

The frame and outer cladding can be treated in the same way if they are made of wood. Only instead of varnish, heated bitumen mastic should be applied in 2-3 layers.

Pallet installation

The drain can be organized using a linear drain installed along the wall, but it would be more rational to install a shower tray in the washing compartment. Recommended Specifications:

Type: Choose a model that is installed in a cutout in the floor rather than on legs (low tray).
Size: the most popular - 100x100 cm.
Material: enameled steel (acrylic in rural areas wears out quickly due to the large amount of sand).

You can purchase a tray with a side length equal to the width of the shower - then it can be rested directly on the bottom trim.

You can install a ready-made tray in the shower

Work order:

If you definitely want to have a wooden lattice, for example, from bars with a cross-section of 30x30 mm, the wood should be processed according to the same scheme as the floor boards. It is advisable if costs are not a concern, instead acrylic varnish apply the same composition to repair bathtubs - the coating will be more resistant to abrasion by soles.

Before use, the grate is treated in the same way as floor boards.

When entering a low pallet, unlike a high one, the user takes a normal step, as a result of which there is a high probability of slipping. Therefore, it is advisable to place the same grid in the pallet.

Frame covering

Now you can sheathe the walls, install the roof and door. The cladding is made double: from the inside, for example, plastic panels are installed, then foam plastic is glued to them and the entire building is sheathed from the outside. Most attractive in the role external cladding looks like corrugated board. Will be more accessible vinyl siding or plastic lining.

An opening window must be provided at the top of one of the cabin walls.

An opening window should be provided at the top of the wall for ventilation and natural light.

The roof of the shower room is made pitched with a slight slope. You can use the same corrugated sheeting, hemming it underneath with foam and plastic panels.

You can separate the washing room and locker room with a curtain. It is advisable that it be waterproof, otherwise, being indoors, the material will take a long time to dry and will soon dry out. For this reason, tarpaulin will not work - it is better to use regular polyethylene.

Tank installation

A tank for a country shower can be purchased at the store. In this case, you only need to install it on the roof and connect it to electricity (if there is a heating element), water supply and watering can. If you intend to make the tank yourself, consider the following requirements:

It is imperative to provide for the presence of sanitary drainage - a tube with a shut-off valve through which absolutely all the water can be drained (the source is located at the lowest point and flush with the bottom).
But the pipe for supplying water to the shower head cannot be located at the very bottom, otherwise sediment will pour onto the user’s head.
If you plan to connect the tank to the water supply by installing a float valve, then you need to add an overflow with a flow area twice the size of the valve. The tank lid must be at a sufficient distance from the float so that it is guaranteed to rise and completely shut off the tap.

The float must be able to completely close the tap

If the user plans to pour water into the tank manually, the design will be slightly different.

A manually filled tank differs in the height of the water supply pipe

As you can see, the pipe for supplying water to the watering can is located at the bottom, since the water level is constantly decreasing during the procedure.

Most often, the blank for a homemade tank is a steel barrel laid horizontally. Thanks to the cylindrical surface, sediment is completely removed from it. You need to cut a wide inspection hatch at the top, which will make it possible not only to fill the container and monitor its condition, but also to cover it from the inside acrylic composition for renovation of bathtubs or enamel for yachts.

You can also use a plastic barrel. Since it is impossible to weld the pipes to it, threaded fittings with a flange are installed on the gaskets, secured externally with a nut and washer. Fortunately, the wide neck that plastic barrels are equipped with allows this to be done. It is important that the diameter of the washer and flange is at least 3 times larger than the outer diameter of the fitting (usually products with M12 - M16 threads are used), but it is not less than 40 mm. Otherwise, the fitting may become distorted due to temperature deformations.

It is better to install the barrel horizontally

A watering can and water supply are connected (if provided). In this case, the connection can be made not with pipes, but with a reinforced garden hose on clamps - it will be simpler and cheaper. You should choose a special shower head - with a valve.

If a heating element is installed in the tank, heating the water is not a problem. In this case, you will also have to heat the shower room inside before visiting with electricity, for example, with a fan heater. However, due to the high cost of electricity, this method of heating water does not suit everyone. In addition, it will not be possible to equip a homemade tank with a heating element according to all the rules, since emergency automation is required (protection against overheating of the heating element in case of a large amount of sediment and boiling water).

As an alternative, the following solution can be proposed: the tank is connected using a supply and return pipelines to the water heating unit, through which the water will circulate, gradually heating up. Circulation will be provided by a circulation pump similar to those used in heating systems. With a large diameter of pipes in the mains and heat exchanger, installing a pump is not necessary - the water will circulate due to convection. In this case, the heat exchanger must be positioned so that its “hot” side is higher than the “cold” side. In this case, the heated water should be able to immediately rush upward.

The role of a water heating unit can be:

Solar collector. You can make a simple option yourself by placing a battery made of black-painted steel, copper or aluminum pipes in a glass-covered box. A factory-made collector will require purchasing costs, but it will also be more efficient due to its use modern technologies much higher: some modern models are capable of heating water to +70 °C in cloudy conditions and 20-degree frost.
A solar collector is an economical and environmentally friendly way to heat water using natural energy
Solar oven. It is a system of reflectors that focus sunlight from a large area onto a coil. Reflectors should be foil-coated, since a regular mirror reflects only the visible range well, and absorbs IR rays.
You can make a solar oven yourself using a pattern
Cooking oven. Quite often, such a structure is erected in country houses to prepare food. A water heating register connected to the tank can be built into it.
Gas stove. If instead of an oven you use one connected to gas cylinder stove, then the water heating circuit from copper tube with a diameter of 6–10 mm can be laid in the form of loops around the burners. Now the heat, which previously simply evaporated during cooking, will be absorbed by the water in the shower tank.

If you have a water heating unit for heating the washing room, you need to install any thin-walled heating radiator and carry out the “return” through it.

At this point, the process of building an all-weather shower can be considered complete.

Video: construction of a wooden shower on a summer cottage

Features of operation

In rural areas, a wide variety of pathogenic microorganisms always enter the water tank. In order not to turn the shower into a breeding ground for infection, it is highly advisable to regularly empty the container through sanitary drainage, draining away all accumulated sediment along with the water. If there is a break in the use of the shower for a week or more, this procedure must be completed.

A simple factory-made shower stall costs about 10 thousand rubles. For the same money, or even less, you can build a warm and durable country shower with a locker room. As you can see, the game is worth the candle, so you can, armed with our advice, get down to business.