We are building a frame house! Having installed and, we proceed directly to the decoration of the facade. This must be done not only for the "beauty" of the house, but also to protect the wooden surfaces of the walls from exposure to atmospheric phenomena. Consider the technology of finishing the facade with siding.
Briefly about siding
Siding is a panel that consists of two paired "wagon boards". The siding comes in several colors. Each panel is supplied with a latch lock, a perforated edge for fastening with nails or self-tapping screws.
The siding panel has the following dimensions:
- panel length is 360 cm
- panel width, (a "clean" width is taken, excluding a latch-lock and a perforated edge) - 20 cm.
You can find detailed information about siding.
The tool that will be required to finish the facade of the house with siding:
- (or screwdriver)
- (or hacksaw)
- simple pencil
- consumables (nails or wood screws).
materials
- siding panels
- start and finish line
- corner
- connecting strip (for connecting panels)
- wooden bars with a section of 50 × 25.
Stages of work
Before you start cladding the house with siding, you need to stuff wooden bars on the surface of the walls (bars are used instead of metal profiles in order to reduce the cost of finishing the facade).
Stuff the bars on the wall at a distance of 50 cm from each other, along the entire perimeter of the walls of the house and along the entire height. At the same time, pay attention to the fact that the bar you are stuffing must be solid - this will stiffen the crate and will not cause warping of the siding when the house settles.
Important! Siding can also be attached directly to the walls of the house, in which case it is necessary to make holes in the connecting corners opposite each panel (for wall ventilation). Although this will negatively affect the appearance of the house, I still advise you to make a crate of wooden blocks to ensure ventilation.
- After the work on the manufacture of the crate is completed, it is necessary to attach the starting bar at the base of the house, around the entire perimeter of the house. In order for the starting bar to be fixed evenly, it is necessary to control the angle of inclination during the fastening process using the building level. The quality of the result of finishing the facade of the house largely depends on how you attach the starting bar.
- Before proceeding with the fastening of the siding to the vertical posts of the crate frame, it is necessary to attach a decorative profile corner to all corners of the house.
- Proceed to install the panels on the battens. Insert the profile spike of the panel along the entire length into the lock-latch of the starting bar and carefully lift the panel up until you hear a characteristic click. A click proves that the panel is fixed.
- Screw self-tapping screws into the perforated edge of the panel - one for each rack of the frame.
- Next, attach the second panel in the upper direction (follow the same technology described above).
- Thus, continue to work, building up a number of panels to the level of the finishing bar.
- Finishing the finish, connect the panels to each other using a connecting strip, which hides the joints and serves more as a decorative element than as a panel fixer.
Today it is fashionable to replace plastic trim elements with wooden options, which gives the home comfort and warmth. The technology of wall cladding with wood has been known for a long time, but remains relevant to this day. Today we’ll figure out whether do-it-yourself clapboard wall cladding is so difficult, and whether it can be done without outside help.
What nuances should be considered when working with lining
Lining is a board of different thickness, which is made from different types of wood. This material got its name because of the place where it was first applied. These are wagons in trains, the inner walls of which were sheathed with small wooden slats. Today it is fashionable to sheathe the walls in the bath with clapboard, as well as in the sauna, or the gazebo.
It must be taken into account that the decoration of the walls with clapboard with one's own hands requires a thorough, balanced approach. Pay attention to the following details:
- Packed boards should be stored on a substrate in a horizontal position.
- The humidity of the storage room must be within the normal range.
- Storage should not be allowed when direct sunlight is directed at the packages.
- It is important to pay attention to the expiration dates indicated on the package.
- The cost of 1 m2 of distillation from linden, which perfectly tolerates temperature changes and high humidity, costs 500 rubles, and in order to sheathe walls in the main rooms at the dacha, on average, you can meet a smaller amount - 300 rubles per m2. Important! The price of the material directly depends on the quality of the wood.
On a note! Lining for walls is bought with a margin, which is equal to ten percent of the total area. It must be remembered that the width of each element is measured by the internal depth, so you need to subtract 10-12 mm of the groove depth.
Lining material processing
After the purchase, the question becomes, how to sheathe the walls with clapboard on your own, so that the coating turns out to be wear-resistant and beautiful? The primary task is the correct pre-treatment, because the manufacturer does not carry out any manipulations with the tree. You need to do the following:
- Needle products need degreasing. To do this, it is better to rinse the board with a 25% acetone solution. Then wipe with a cloth dampened with water and dry.
- All, even the most minor, damage should be repaired with a putty mixture for wood. You can buy it at any hardware store.
- If you need to change the shade, then you can use stain, or other professional impregnations that will preserve the beautiful texture of the wood.
What you need to prepare the walls for lining
There are two main options for how to make a wall clapboard: glue and frame. Note that the first one will require you to have a perfectly flat surface. That is why the second method is preferable, which involves the construction of a crate. Among the advantages of this method is the creation of additional space for warming the room.
In order to fix the lining on the wall, you need:
- Tools. In this particular case, you should prepare a drill with different nozzles, a plumb line (level), pliers, a hammer, a hand saw or a jigsaw.
- Reiki for the construction of the frame. For these purposes, solid wooden beams with a cross section of 30 * 60 mm are suitable. At the same stage, the substrates used to level the surfaces are prepared.
- Fastening materials: dowels, self-tapping screws, nails, kleimers, if necessary, then hangers for the frame.
Important! Even if the frame method of fastening is used, preliminary preparation of working surfaces is required. The procedure is simple, it consists in the fact that all decorative elements are removed from the wall, and the defects are overwritten. After that, an additional primer is carried out.
How to create a crate for lining fasteners
Preparing walls for lining is the most scrupulous process. You will have to tinker with creating a special design. General recommendations:
- Treat the beam with refractory impregnation and antifungal agents.
- Make sure that the slats are located strictly perpendicular to the decorative boards.
- Between the rails, it is necessary to observe a single distance, the step of which is 40-50 cm.
- It is necessary to leave a distance between the floor and the ceiling. This recommendation is especially relevant for wooden houses, which are constantly subject to shrinkage.
- The evenness in the installation of the frame is subject to careful check, for this, plumb lines and a level are used.
- If a space is formed between the rail and the wall, then it must be filled with prepared dies.
Important! The construction of the crate makes it possible to equip the walls with an additional insulating layer. The insulation is fixed between the formed racks.
Which fixation option to choose?
It is important to decide on the method of fixing plank materials. Sheathing a wall can be done in several ways:
- Through view of fasteners. This is the simplest solution that does not require much effort. The point is that the screws are screwed directly through the front side. This method involves marking so that the fastener points are located on the same line. In addition, holes are drilled in advance on the wagon board, which will not allow the tree to deteriorate and crack. When screwing in screws, make sure that their heads are completely recessed into the wood. This is easy to achieve if you pre-drill a place under the hat with a large-caliber drill. Formed holes are masked with special eraser plugs or rubbed with putty. Of the shortcomings, this method significantly violates the external aesthetic appeal of the coating.
- Fastening the lining to the wall can be carried out using decorative carnations. Their hats were originally decorated to match the color of the material.
- A great option would be hidden carnations without hats. The peculiarity is that such nails can only be hammered at an angle of 80 degrees. This will make it possible to hide those areas that have been violated.
- If you have a professional stapler on your farm, then staples can be used for fasteners.
Important! You should not buy a manual stapler, which is sold on every corner, as its use does not provide a secure fit.
- With the smallest thickness of the wagon board, kleimers are used. The main advantage is that the mounts are invisible.
The method of how to fix the lining to the wall is selected individually, based on the specific situation. But we note that recently the most popular are the kleimers.
The process of fastening the lining
Before sheathing the walls, the material is brought into the room and left for two days. This manipulation is essential for the tree to fully acclimatize.
Important! If you rush and skip this stage, then there is a high probability that the structure will warp.
All work must be carried out at positive air temperatures, and the optimum humidity is at least 60%.
The essence of the technique:
- Most often, laying is carried out in a horizontal position, so install the first bar at the bottom so that its pinch (groove) looks up.
- As with wallpapering, fixing should start from a corner that is away from the entrance to the room.
- Check the board carefully with a level, taking into account the horizontal and vertical surfaces.
- The first board is fastened, and the rest are then grooved, and then fixed with clamps. be careful with the first and last elements, it is better to fix them with screws.
- After finishing, you need to decorate the walls with skirting boards and corners, or you can paint the walls from the lining with stain or varnish the surface.
Experience guarantees completion of finishing work in a day, even including the installation of the frame. Natural materials will give the room comfort and warmth, last a long time, and retain beauty.
Video: Do-it-yourself lining installation
Record dated: 12-31-2014
Today, many owners of residential and non-residential premises use lining as a facing material for walls, because of its high quality and ease of use. However, really high-quality material is not cheap, you may want to save money and sheathe the walls with clapboard on your own. In principle, this is not difficult to do, and now we will consider how to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard.
Preparatory process
Choosing a material
There are 2 lining options: wooden and plastic (PVC). Of course, high-quality wood is preferable: it is durable, environmentally friendly, has good soundproofing and heat-retaining properties. But if you are making repairs in a room where humidity is high, you should use PVC. Other characteristics of the room also matter. For example, it is better not to use pine for a bath, because when heated, it begins to release resins, and the appearance of the room will be spoiled.
Cooking material
So, you have made your choice and now you need to prepare the material for further work. The tree must be treated with special means that will prevent the processes of decay, mold formation and damage by insects. You can also treat the planks with azure to give them the desired color. In conclusion, the strips must be brought into the room and allowed to rest for a day, in order to adapt to temperature conditions.
We install the crate
When the material is ready, you can immediately start work. Of course, in order to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard, you must first install the crate. This is done as follows:
1. Pre-prepare the wall. We apply a special moisture-proof putty on it if part of the wall is sometimes wet. If the walls require insulation, then first we lay the insulation and cover it with a vapor barrier, which, among other things, will improve sound insulation.
2. We take a purchased or home-made rail with a section of 20mm x 40mm (if the wall is absolutely flat, then 10mm x 15mm is possible) and fasten it with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver perpendicular to the direction of mounting the panels at a distance of 40 - 50 cm from each other. By the way, the bars also need to be pre-treated with the same materials as the lining.
3. With the help of the mounting level, we check how evenly the rails are installed. If the walls are uneven, you will have to level the crate. To do this, we put a piece of timber, plywood or a mounting wedge under the rail, fix the structure with long self-tapping screws or dowels. We do a level check.
4. We install the slats at the bottom at a distance of 3 cm to 5 cm from the floor for laying the floor covering.
5. We fix the crate along the ceiling, in the corners, around window and door openings. And we proceed to the installation of lining.
wall cladding
Half of the work is ready, now it remains to correctly sheathe the clapboard walls. To do this, you need to determine the method of fastening the material. There are several of them. You can drive nails obliquely on the tongue side, you can fasten the plank with a clip on the groove side, or when using offset profile planks with any of the fastening materials.
With vertical sheathing of walls, you need to start moving from the left corner. The distance between the lining strips and the ceiling should be 5 mm. The distance to the floor covering should be 10 - 15 mm. De-energize and dismantle all electrical appliances. We fix the first lining and check its level, if everything is in order, we fix it with self-tapping screws. Next, we insert the protruding part of the next plank into the groove of the first and snap it, after which, just like the previous one, we attach it to the crate. We pass like this along all the walls to the end.
As for the horizontal sheathing, it is not very different from the vertical one. It always starts from the ceiling, so that the grooves are directed downwards. The lining can always be shortened or cut, in order to properly distribute around the window or door.
Next, we mount the starting profile, leaning its long part against the crate. We fix it with self-tapping screws from the inside. We insert the lining into the groove of the final profile and push it tightly. This method is suitable for PVC panels. For wooden lining, there are also special decorative profiles that will help hide the joints at the corners, give an aesthetic look to the framing of windows and doors. Now the work is completed. This is how you can properly sheathe the clapboard walls.
Interior decoration of the house with clapboard painted
Wood, as you know, is a versatile material and remains so, regardless of its scope and processing options. Particularly relevant is the use of wood in construction, in particular in wall cladding inside the house. Thanks to this material, you can create a favorable microclimate, comfort and beautiful interior in the house.
Application
More and more residents of private houses choose the interior of the walls from the lining inside the house. This is due not only to the comfort and magnificent beauty of the interior, which are achieved through the use of wood, but also due to the presence of certain properties that the lining has.
Among them:
- Excellent sound isolation;
- The surface does not require further leveling;
- A wonderful aroma of wood that will appeal to all residents;
- Biological feature and high environmental friendliness of wood;
- Various ways of laying the lining, as well as its different widths and others, allow you to visually change the proportions of space.
Let's say a few words about the properties of lining to change the space:
- To begin with, it is worth noting that any decorative lining for interior decoration is wooden daughters, the width of which is usually 8.8 cm, which in turn is the standard working size. The length of the rails will vary (from 1 to 6 meters), their variation depends on the dimensions of the room and the methods of installation. Before purchasing sheathing material, it is imperative to make accurate preliminary measurements;
- Also an important point is the method of laying the rails on the walls. They can be placed vertically or horizontally. The horizontal position expands the space of the room, while the vertical masonry increases the room in height.
Grade classification
The classification of the lining directly depends on the quality indicators, according to which the material is usually divided into 4 grades, which, in turn, determines the price of the product.
Saving in this case is not worth it, but buying too expensive lining can be a waste of money. On sale most often found 4: "Extra", followed by varieties "A", "B" and "C".
It is difficult to imagine a type of wood from which it would be impossible to make lining, while the quality of the finishing material will directly depend on the type used.
The following types of wood are commonly used in the Russian construction market:
- Pine;
- Birch;
- Larch;
- Ash and other options.
However, when approaching the choice of the type of wood from which the lining is made, one point should be taken into account - all of the above types of wood are suitable for interior decoration with a lining at home.
Important! It is worth considering some physical features of the rocks, for example, coniferous varieties are not suitable for decorating a bath, because at elevated temperatures, resin will begin to release from this material.
Step by step lining
If you want to know in detail how to sheathe a house with clapboard inside, you should study the step-by-step algorithm of the work process. It is not difficult to perform this procedure with your own hands, a special video and instructions will come to your aid, which will tell you step by step how to carry out wall cladding.
The initial stage is the choice of the lining arrangement, horizontal or vertical. The choice in this case should be dictated by the size of the room and the taste of the owner. For a vertical arrangement, the rack frame is located horizontally, the opposite arrangement is for horizontal laying of the lining.
You must first prepare the slats (or buy), you can cut boards for them, the width of which is from 25 to 30 mm. A prerequisite is that the material must be dry.
Frame installation
The main condition for installing the frame is placing it in one plane. The first rail for horizontal laying should be installed strictly vertically using a plumb line. You can fix the rail with self-tapping screws or ordinary nails.
We pass to the opposite corner, where the installation of a similar rail is required, several nylon threads are pulled between them to create a single plane. Then, along these threads, all the elements of the frame are installed.
Tip: The distance between the slats is strictly maintained in the range should be from 50 to 60 centimeters, the crate after installation requires treatment with an antiseptic.
Fastening lining
The main rule for placing a lining of a horizontal type of masonry is that the groove should be down and the spike up. This will prevent moisture from entering the groove if it forms on the walls. After all, the accumulation of moisture in the grooves will lead to a loss of the appearance of the cladding, as well as to the formation of mold, which is dangerous to health.
You can assemble the lining both from the ceiling and from below, from the floor, this moment is dictated solely by the desire of the owner. However, it is advisable to leave the lining in the room where it will be mounted for a day, so that the tree adapts to future conditions.
You can fasten the rails to the frame by means of nails driven into the groove part, be sure to use a tool such as a doboy (photo), or use a large nail.
The back wall of the groove requires special attention, it is important that it does not crack during installation. Moreover, a small gap (1-2 mm) is allowed between the elements, this will allow you to adjust the shape of the lining in case of deformation of the tree due to high humidity in the room. In the photo - a ceiling plinth that hides all the irregularities. The range of stores is very voluminous
Sometimes the lining is simply varnished if this room does not differ in any conditions. In the event that we are talking about the walls of a bath or sauna, it will be necessary to use protective equipment that can not only prevent the negative effects of moisture, but also protect against temperature changes.
Finally
When wondering how to sheathe a house with clapboard inside, it is not at all necessary to resort to the services of specialists. You can do this work yourself, using our guide.
Wall cladding is one of the final stages in the construction of a frame house. And here the choice of material is of great importance: the microclimate in the premises, the mechanical strength of the walls, the reliability of protection against moisture and cold depend on this. In addition, sheathing serves as the basis for finishing materials, and in some cases acts as a finishing coating and is responsible for the aesthetic appearance of the building.
Sheathing gives the frame of the structure a certain rigidity and takes on part of the load. This means that one of the main criteria is the mechanical strength of the material in bending and compression, the absence of shrinkage during operation. The walls must retain their original shape for years, regardless of the surrounding conditions. In addition, the sheathing must be resistant to moisture, sudden changes in temperature, and the effects of microorganisms.
Next, you need to pay attention to the ease of installation of the material and its ductility during processing. If you plan to sheathe with your own hands, this aspect is of great importance, because it depends on how much effort and time it will take to work. The material should be easy to cut and drill, but at the same time keep the density on the cuts, not crumble, not crack. And, of course, it must be durable so that you do not have to change the skin every 10-15 years.
Material selection
There are several types of materials that more or less meet the specified requirements: moisture resistant plywood, DSP, OSB, edged board, fiberboard. They have similar characteristics and are widely used in frame construction. To make a choice, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the main properties and features of each of them.
Oriented Strand Board (OSB)
OSB panels rightfully belong to the most popular materials in the arrangement of frame structures. They consist of layers of glued wood chips and chips, and in the outer layers the fibers are arranged longitudinally, inside - transversely. Synthetic resins and wax are used to bind the chips, giving the finished boards water-repellent properties.
Standard production provides for the production of these plates in several categories:
- OSB-1 is intended exclusively for interior decoration of dry rooms with reduced mechanical stress;
- OSB-2 is used in the installation of load-bearing structures in rooms with low humidity;
- OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant board of increased rigidity, used in the installation of load-bearing structures indoors and outdoors.
In terms of quality-functionality-price, OSB-3 is the most optimal, and this material is widely used in private construction for wall cladding, the manufacture of load-bearing partitions, and reusable formwork when pouring concrete structures. The plates lend themselves perfectly to grinding, cutting, drilling, tightly hold nails even at a distance of 6 mm from the edge. Such sheathing can simultaneously serve as a decorative coating for walls, it is enough just to treat it with waterproof varnish or paint it.
OSB Advantages:
- dense structure prevents delamination and splitting of the material during processing and during operation;
- plates have elasticity and high strength, perfectly resist vibrations, compressive loads, various deformations;
- the material is resistant to weathering and temperature extremes;
- OSB is resistant to microorganisms, insects and rodents do not like it.
Flaws:
- very low vapor permeability;
- combustibility;
- the content of toxic compounds (phenol and formaldehyde).
Main characteristics
Prices for OSB (Oriented Strand Board)
OSB (Oriented Strand Board)
Cement particle boards (DSP)
This material is a compressed mass of M500 cement and shavings (usually softwood). A standard plate has three layers: the outer ones are made of small chips, the inner one is made of large chips. In addition to the main components, the composition contains hydration additives, the mass fraction of which does not exceed 3%. DSP is characterized by resistance to moisture, high strength, long service life. Plates are widely used in private construction, industrial, for work inside and outside the premises.
When sheathing the frame, such plates serve as an excellent basis for cladding, decorative plaster, painting, as they form a perfectly flat and smooth surface. The material endures 50 cycles of complete freezing and thawing without loss of its characteristics; in the future, the strength of the plates decreases by about 10%. Among wood-based materials, DSP is the leader in terms of environmental and technical indicators.
Advantages:
- very low hygroscopicity;
- resistance to mold and other microorganisms;
- DSPs are not damaged by insects and rodents;
- the material does not emit toxic substances;
- low thermal conductivity;
- Fire safety.
Flaws:
- mechanical processing of plates requires considerable effort;
- DSP has a large weight compared to other materials;
- when cutting and drilling plates, a lot of fine dust is formed, so you need to work in a respirator;
- high price.
Specifications
Fibreboard (Fibreboard)
The material is sheets of pressed shavings, usually softwood. During the pressing process, the raw material is strongly heated, which makes it possible to achieve maximum density without the use of adhesives. Due to this, fiberboard belongs to environmentally friendly materials, and therefore is suitable for outdoor use and for finishing residential premises. The shavings contain natural resin, which acts as an antiseptic and protects the plates from mold.
In terms of strength, fiberboard is noticeably inferior to natural lining and OSB, but it surpasses them in terms of heat and sound insulation properties.
Windproof plate "Beltermo"
Now in the construction market, fiberboards are represented by insulating boards of several well-known brands, the most popular of which are Beltermo and Izoplat. For sheathing a frame house, plates with a thickness of at least 25 mm are used, thinner sheets are used indoors.
Advantages:
- light weight;
- low thermal conductivity;
- ease of installation;
- the material does not exfoliate and does not crumble;
- high vapor permeability;
- resistance to moisture and microbial attack;
- the absence of harmful substances in the composition.
Flaws:
- high price;
- a long stay without a decorative finish causes slight deformation of the sheets;
- the outer skin of fiberboard requires the presence of spacer braces in the frame or a rigid inner skin.
Specifications
Prices for wood fiber boards (MDF)
Fibreboard (Fibreboard)
Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)
GVL consists of pressed gypsum reinforced with cellulose fibers. Due to its high strength, the material is suitable for creating load-bearing surfaces, therefore it is widely used in frame construction. It differs from drywall in greater density, uniformity, and the absence of a cardboard shell. In terms of frost resistance, soundproofing properties, as well as resistance to moisture and combustion, GVL is also several times higher than gypsum boards.
Installation of GVL is carried out in a frame and frameless way. For external wall cladding, the first option is used, where the sheets are fastened to the bearing racks with self-tapping screws. The material is easy to cut and drill, and, despite its heavy weight, is quite easy to install. Such a sheathing serves as an excellent basis for finishing with tiles and decorative plaster.
Advantages:
- low hygroscopicity;
- vapor permeability;
- the absence of toxic compounds in the composition;
- fire safety;
- high heat and sound insulation properties.
Flaws:
- lack of plasticity and brittleness when bending the sheet;
- great weight.
Specifications
Plywood
Plywood is made by gluing thin sheets of veneer of various types of wood (most often coniferous and birch). Sheets are stacked perpendicular to each other relative to the location of the fibers, which increases the mechanical strength of the material and increases resistance to deformation. For the outer cladding of frame walls, plywood of increased moisture resistance is used, which is marked FSF. The thickness of the sheets should be from 9-10 mm, thinner material will not provide the necessary rigidity to the frame.
The grade of plywood does not really matter for sheathing, and the cheapest unsanded 4/4 grade boards can be used.
From the outside, all defects will be hidden under a hinged facade, so there is no point in overpaying. Subject to the sheathing technology, the plywood coating will serve for years without losing its qualities.
Advantages:
- high flexural and compressive strength;
- moisture resistance;
- wear resistance;
- ease of processing and installation;
- frost resistance.
Flaws:
- combustibility;
- content of formaldehyde resins;
- tendency to chipping.
Specifications
plywood prices
Edged board
The use of edged boards for sheathing is the most economical option. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, affordable, easy to install. Boards can be filled not only horizontally, but also at an angle of 45-60 degrees. To save material, boards can be fastened in increments of up to 30 cm, although most often the sheathing is made solid. This design perfectly strengthens the frame and is a ready-made base for a ventilated facade.
In order for the sheathing to be reliable, the boards are chosen with a thickness of at least 25 mm, they can be tongue-and-groove, for greater docking density. Do not use raw lumber: in the process of drying, the wood will begin to warp, deformations of the finish coating may appear.
Advantages:
- wood does not emit harmful substances and has excellent vapor permeability;
- boards are easy to process;
- work does not require large financial costs.
Flaws:
- combustibility of the material;
- wood is susceptible to damage by insects and microorganisms;
- fitting and fixing elements takes a lot of time.
Edged board prices
Cladding technology
Installation of plates on the finished frame is carried out according to the same technology, regardless of the type of material. Simultaneously with the cladding, vapor barrier and wall insulation are performed, and finishing can be done immediately upon completion of construction or after some time. Consider the installation technology using the example of frame sheathing with OSB boards.
Sheathing can be done in two ways - with and without crate. In the first case, the vapor barrier layer is located between the frame and the OSB, in the second - on top of the skin. The batten option is used in cases where the OSB serves as the basis for plastering, painting or tiling, the second method is used, as a rule, when installing a ventilated facade. Otherwise, there are no significant differences.
Step 1. Start trimming from the very corner. The first sheet of OSB is applied to the racks of the frame so that the lower edge completely overlaps the lower trim of the house. Be sure to control the horizontal level. The plate itself is also recommended to be placed horizontally, and not vertically - this provides the structure with greater rigidity. For fixing the material, galvanized self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm are used. About 10 mm must be retreated from the edge of the OSB, the fastening step along the perimeter of the sheet is 15 cm, in the center - 30 cm.
Advice. For strong fixation of the plates, the length of the hardware must exceed the thickness of the OSB by at least 2.5 times. If the self-tapping screw enters the frame beam by less than 30 mm, under the influence of loads, the sheathing will begin to break away from the supporting base.
Step 2 The next plate is installed next to the first, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm for thermal expansion. In the same way, they set the horizontal level, screw the sheathing to the frame guides. The joints of the plates must necessarily fall in the middle of the rack, only in this case the fastening will be as reliable as possible. The rest of the plates are fixed in a circle, leaving open areas for doorways.
Step 3 The second row of sheathing must be mounted with dressing of vertical seams. Between the lower and upper plates, the same gap of 2-3 mm is observed. When sheathing openings, whole sheets should be used, not trimmings - the fewer joints, the tighter the sheathing. Cutouts in the sheets are made with an electric jigsaw or a circular saw, having previously marked out to the nearest millimeter. The edges of the cuts after the installation of the slab must ideally coincide with the lines of the openings.
Step 4 The top plates are installed so as to completely cover the top trim. If the house has two floors, the interfloor piping should be closed by the middle of the slab - in no case can the OSB be joined on this line.
Gallery 1. An example of the construction of a one-story frame house with OSB trim
Gallery 2. Sheathing with OSB boards of a two-story frame house. Example
Step 5 After completing the installation, a windproof membrane is attached over the skin. Her canvases are pulled horizontally and fixed with stapler staples to the OSB. At the joints, the film is overlapped and glued with adhesive tape. The material should not be pulled too tight, but there should be no sagging either.
Step 6 Next, the laths of the crate are stuffed for finishing in increments of 50-60 cm. The laths must first be treated with a protective compound and dried. After that, you can proceed with the installation of siding, lining or other decorative coating for the house.
On a note! If it is planned to paint the facade from OSB, then the membrane, respectively, is mounted only on the inside of the house.
With this method of sheathing, the insulation is placed on the inside of the walls into the cells of the frame and covered with a vapor barrier film. Slabs for interior decoration are sewn over the vapor barrier, for example, drywall or the same OSB.
Video - How to sheathe a frame house from the outside
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