How to make a bath sewer drain. How to drain water under the bath. Prices for metal barrels

How to make a drain in the bath? This issue should be a priority, since the duration of the operation of the bath, the protection of the foundation from fungus and unpleasant odors, comfort and ease of use will depend on the correct construction of this structure.

To date, experts offer several options for how to make a floor in a bath with a drain, and each of them can be done by hand.

Ground filtration - the easiest and cheapest way

Drainage of water in the bath during ground filtration will be carried out directly into the ground. Choosing this method, you need to consider the following factors:

Foundation safety. Most often, a bath is built on a strip foundation, so draining water from a bath under the floor can lead to its destruction, and constant moisture will become an excellent breeding ground for fungus.
Soil composition. If the soil has a clay base, then it will be impossible to drain the water from the bath. Natural absorption will be minimal, water will constantly collect under the floor.
Terrain relief. If the site is sloped, then this can lead to water remaining in one part of the foundation and cause its rapid destruction.

If a soil filtration system for a bath is chosen, then the best option would be to equip a soil purification well for water.

Drain well from a car tire

Craftsmen argue that the use of expensive sewer systems in summer cottages is not always justified. If the cottage is not used for permanent residence, then you can build a drain from an ordinary car tire. Using the above guide, you can complete the task in one day.

For a drain pit, you need to take car tires from KAMAZ or UAZ vehicles. Having determined the size of the tires, you need to dig a drain hole. Car tires will be stacked on top of each other.

Drainage is poured at the bottom of such a well. The sewer pipe, which is located between the floors of the bath, is brought to the wheels, into a hole cut in advance.

As practice shows, tire wells are ideal for any terrain, as they do not freeze through and serve for a long period.

Drainage channel - the best choice

Many experts say that in the country it is possible to build a bathhouse with a drain - a drainage channel.

The drain system will work according to the following principle: water flows by gravity into the sump through a metal gutter located in the floors. From the gutter, water enters the sewer pipe, which ends in a drainage well.

When making a drain in the bath with your own hands, it is worth remembering such important points:

soil freezing level. The bottom of the well should be below the level, while the bottom must be covered with expanded clay.
In order to prevent freezing of the sewer pipe, it is worthwhile to fill up the expanded clay above the freezing point, covering it with earth on top. The poured earth must be rammed.
The choice of material for the floor. Many experts advise using floorboards, as they can always be dried. If the flooring is made capital, then it should be with a slight slope towards the built-in drain.
When choosing a drainage channel, it is worth remembering the ventilation drain. It is made next to the drain, while the diameter of the ventilation pipe must be at least 10 cm.

Internal sewerage

Internal sewerage is the best choice for a drain system in a bath. It is necessary to install such a drain even at the construction stage of the structure.

The scheme of work execution is as follows:

Small trenches are dug with a slope of at least 2 cm per linear meter. The optimal depth of trenches is 0.5-0.6 m.
The bottom of the dug ditches should be covered with a sand cushion. Its height is 15 cm. When filling the pillow on your own, it is worth remembering the slope and careful tamping.
Pipe laying. When performing this stage of work, it is necessary to provide for the presence of all connections.
Internal sewerage schemes provide for a drain for the toilet. It is necessarily attached to the wall with clamps, ventilation equipment is supplied to it. The pipe for the toilet must be above the level of the sanitary equipment and have a check valve.
When the internal sewerage is assembled, proceed to the flooring. Sewer outlets must be provided with grates so that water can freely enter the gutters and large debris remains on the floor.

Performing the internal sewerage of the bath with your own hands, it is worthwhile to provide for the presence of water seals in all areas of the water intakes. This will help to avoid unpleasant odors inside the room.

Drain well options

The system for draining waste from the bath also includes a drain well. Experts offer several ways to equip such wells.

It can be plastic or metal containers, reinforced concrete structures. The main condition for the proper functioning of the structure is the chosen place. The drain well should be at the lowest point on the site so that water can flow by gravity from the bath. When choosing a place for a future construction, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of an unobstructed entrance for a sewage truck.

How to make a drain well?

You need to dig a hole. This process is carried out independently or an excavator is called. The dug hole should have smooth edges, not crumble.
Bottom preparation. In order to subsequently easily and freely clean the bottom, it must be done at a slight slope towards the hatch. A pillow of sand and a layer of concrete are laid at the bottom of the pit.
When the bottom of the concrete dries, you can proceed to laying the walls of brick. The best choice would be red brick. The thickness of the masonry should not be less than 0.25 m. When laying, it is worth leaving a hole for the entrance of the sewer pipe.
Brickwork must be carefully sealed.
A hatch is installed on the completed well and covered with soil so that there is only one hatch on the surface.

If it is possible to buy reinforced concrete rings for the well, then this will speed up and facilitate the work process.

Drain structures in the bath are systems without which it does not function.

Draining water in the bath with your own hands: how to do it right, device

How to make a drain in the bath? Draining water from the bath: diagrams, drawings

When building a bath, it is imperative to arrange a high-quality drain. In this case, the smell from stagnant water will not subsequently enter the room. Floors will last much longer. There are several options for arranging a system for draining water from a washing and steam room. We will tell about them further.

The simplest drain in the bath

First, let's see how to make a drain in a bath of the simplest design. In the event that the soil under the building is sandy and easily absorbs water, you can not “bother” and arrange the receiver right in it. At the same time, a hole is dug under the sink, and the floors are made slightly inclined towards it. In order to prevent an unpleasant smell from penetrating the bath, vent holes are made in the foundation. However, more often the drain has a more complex design. In this case, when pouring the foundation, if it is tape, a hole is left in it for the drainage pipe.

Trench and drain pipe

Under the pipe through which the water will drain, of course, you will need to dig a trench. Do not arrange too long drain.

It is also not necessary to dig a drainage well or install a septic tank very close to the foundation. The optimal distance from the walls of the bath to the receiver is 1-3 m. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the trench. The question of how to make a drain in the bath comes down, among other things, to what material and what diameter pipes should be used. Usually, plastic ones are taken for the water drainage device. A steel drain will quickly rust. The diameter of the pipe depends on how many people will bathe in the washing room at the same time. The minimum allowable is 50 mm. The trench must be dug at an angle. The steeper the pipe is inclined, the better.

well receiver

How to make a drain in the bath, we found out. Where will the used water go? As a receiver, an ordinary well is most often arranged. Its depth should be at least 1.5 meters. The diameter depends on the amount of water received. One person spends in the bath about 20 liters of water per visit. Five people will thus consume 100 liters. For such an amount of water, a well diameter of one meter is enough. Next, the receiver must be half filled with expanded clay or crushed stone. The walls are coated with clay. From above, the well is covered with boards and covered with earth. The pipe should enter it at a distance of about 60-70 cm from the upper boundary of the soil. This will prevent the sewage from freezing in winter.

Receiver-septic tank

If desired, you can arrange near the bathhouse (photo below) not a well, but a simple septic tank. It is made from an ordinary standard plastic barrel. A hole is also dug beforehand. You need to dig down to the sandy layer of soil. Usually it is located at a depth of 1-1.5 meters. Further, as in the first case, a layer of rubble is poured onto the bottom. It must be tamped down.

A hole is drilled in the side of the barrel for a pipe, which will subsequently be attached to the drain pipe. Any septic tank must be connected to the open air. To ensure air exchange, a hole is drilled in the middle of the barrel for an exhaust pipe of small diameter. If this is not done, with an increase in air pressure in the barrel during the inflow of water, it will simply be squeezed out through the drain pipe into the bath room along with an unpleasant odor.

Next, a pipe is inserted into the side hole, and an exhaust pipe is mounted in the cut out in the bottom. Then the barrel is placed upside down in the pit. Then the socket of the pipe is put on a pipe coming out of the ground, through which the water is drained from the bath. Even if the rubble at the bottom of the pit is compacted very carefully, the barrel can still sag over time. To prevent the pipe from slipping off the pipe, it is drilled to it on the sides with two self-tapping screws. After installation, the space between the walls of the barrel and the walls of the pit is covered with rubble. Next, the structure is sprinkled with earth.

Since the septic tank is outside, someone can step on it from above. Therefore, in order to prevent the bottom of the barrel from being squeezed, it should be covered with boards or a piece of thick tin before backfilling.

Drain device in the bath itself

Drainage in the floor of the bath can be arranged in several ways. In any case, the soil under the floor is concreted with a slope towards the pipe. A small receiving pit-tray is arranged around it. This is necessary so that the water leaves the bath faster. The floors are laid on the logs. The latter are placed on concrete or brick square columns erected on this concrete base. From above, the logs must be waterproofed with mastic or roofing material. Next, mount the floor boards. Sometimes they are not nailed, but simply laid with a distance of 5 mm from each other. Water flows into these cracks. From time to time, the boards are removed and dried in the open air. Such floors are called leaky.

Of course, such a floor device is not very convenient. Firstly, when walking, the boards will move, and secondly, in winter, cold air will flow from the cracks. Therefore, the floors in the bath are often made capital.

Tiled floor in the bath

Sometimes a tiled floor device can also be used. Baths are also used to relax and unwind. And since ceramics is a slippery material, and, moreover, it also heats up at high temperatures, it is usually additionally covered with wooden shields for ease of movement. From below, so that the surface of the latter is horizontal, bars of different thicknesses are stuffed. Like leaking wood floors, these boards get dried out from time to time.

Clay floor in the bath

The clay version of the coating is also a rather interesting floor device. It is quite pleasant to walk in baths with such a finish, since this material has a very low degree of thermal conductivity. In this case, instead of a concrete solution, a clay mixture is simply used. However, such floors have one significant drawback. When wet, the clay swells noticeably. After drying, it takes on its original dimensions, while cracking strongly. Subsequently, water begins to stagnate in the cracks. As a result, an unpleasant odor appears in the bath.

Water seal device

This is how the floor is made. It is pleasant to go to baths with any of these coating options only if there is a so-called water seal. Without it, cold and bad-smelling air from the receiving pipe may begin to enter the room. A water seal can be made by simply installing a special plastic cup with legs on the pipe that goes into the tray. Entering the receiver, the water will lift it and go into the drain. Air will not enter the bath from the pipe. The receiving tray should be closed with a grill. This will prevent leaves from brooms and other debris from getting into the drain.

Insulated floor in the bath

If you intend to use the bath in the winter, it is worth arranging insulated floors in it. In this case, a draft floor is first stuffed, on which expanded clay is poured or expanded polystyrene is laid. In the middle, a receiving chute is carried out. Next, a finishing floor is stuffed onto the logs of different heights. It should be with a slope of the boards from the walls to the gutter. Before backfilling expanded clay, the subfloor is covered with a vapor barrier. On top of the insulation, waterproofing is laid. The gaps between the boards of the finishing floor are sealed. Expanded clay for insulation is suitable only mixed - at least from two fractions of different sizes.

Screed insulation

Thus, we have found out how to make a drain in the bath and what the floors should be like. Now let's look at how to properly make a concrete base for coating. Before pouring it, the soil is carefully tamped, arranging a slight slope towards the receiver-tray. After that, a layer of rubble about 10-15 cm is poured on it. The foundation should be protected by laying a layer of clay around it. Then everything is poured with concrete. If desired, floor insulation can be arranged at this stage. In this case, a thin screed is poured over the rubble. A layer of expanded clay is poured on it. Next, the main concrete floor is poured. This layer must be reinforced. The easiest way is to use a regular chain-link mesh for this purpose. After pouring, the concrete surface must be leveled as carefully as possible with a board.

How to prepare a concrete solution

Of course, the concrete floor of the bath should be as reliable as possible. Therefore, the solution should be prepared strictly adhering to the established technology. Sand must be taken large and necessarily sifted. Cement for the device of a concrete bath floor is used only the highest grades. M400 is the best. Kneading is done in a ratio of 1:3. Mix the ingredients as thoroughly as possible. It is best to do this using special equipment. It is very difficult to prepare a homogeneous composition manually. The presence of non-mixed parts noticeably weakens the flooded structure.

Shower in the bath

Showers in the bath suit quite rarely. Its simplest option is an ordinary bucket suspended above the entrance to the steam room. However, you can use other, structurally simple, but somewhat more “advanced” options. After all, contrasting water procedures are actually very useful. You can, for example, install a tank on the ceiling and bring a branch pipe into the bathhouse from the ceiling. Next, a regular watering can is connected to it. Water can be pumped into the tank from a well through a hose. The shower drain in this case can be arranged according to the same principle as the main bath. Most often, the used water simply leaves the bath through a common receiver.

Bath device diagrams

A drain is not the only feature of such an unusual building as a bathhouse. It will be convenient only if the layout of the location of its premises is correct. Therefore, finally, let's consider what the bath scheme should be. There are many options for the location of the steam room, washing and changing rooms. If you wish, you can develop your own project. However, it is worth observing some basic rules:

The stove is best placed in the middle of the building, so that it is possible to heat not only the steam room and washing room, but also the locker room. Otherwise, it will be cold to dress in winter after visiting the bath. If the building is large, it is worth arranging two furnaces.
Even in a very small bath, it is desirable to equip a vestibule with an area of at least a square meter. If the front door is located too close to the street, in winter it will begin to freeze to the frame due to condensation.
If in the future it is planned to arrange gatherings with beer in the bathhouse, it is worth allocating a little space for the toilet.

Bath room dimensions

The scheme of the bath, of course, should include such information as the size of its premises. When drawing up a project, it is worth considering their minimum allowable area per person:

Based on these figures and knowing how many people will wash at the same time, it will not be difficult to calculate the required area of the building.

How to rationally arrange rooms

Most often, two entrances are arranged in the vestibule: one to the washing room, behind which there is a steam room, the second to the locker room. This is really the most convenient scheme. In small bathhouses, the vestibule usually also serves as a dressing room. To finally decide on what the building should be, you can view different drawings of the bath. One of them is presented to your attention on this page a little higher. And this is how saunas are built in Europe:

Thus, having correctly carried out the layout, having arranged a good drain, as well as having completed all other work with strict observance of the established technologies, it is possible to build a comfortable and durable bathhouse in a suburban area. If there is no particular desire to build something on your own, you can order a service from a construction organization such as a turnkey bath. In this case, our recommendations will help you control the work of the hired team.

How to make a drain in the bath? Draining water from the bath: diagrams, drawings

How to make a drain in the bath, many owners of country houses would probably like to know. After all, the convenience of taking water procedures depends on how well it will be arranged. There are several ways to dispose of used water.

How to make a drain in the bath with your own hands

There are many options for draining used water from a bathhouse, which practically do not require financial investments and connection to a central sewer. A carefully thought-out drain in the bath will ensure the durability of the floors and foundations, and prevent the appearance of fungus on the walls.

Recommendations for arranging a floor with a drain for a bath

The creation of a drain system inside the bath begins at the stage of manufacturing floors. Water will quickly leave the room if the floor is built according to the recommendations:

To drain liquid from the room, install a drain pipe in the floor of the bath (usually in the washing room).

Sewer system outside the bath

The following factors influence the choice of drainage method:

Soil composition.

In addition, the risk of contamination of the site with dirty bath water should be taken into account. A large amount of fat, suspended particles, detergents can contaminate the area around the bath, an unpleasant smell will be felt in the room and an uncomfortable atmosphere will be created. Consumers can choose one of two ways to dispose of dirty water - draining sewage into the ground next to the bath or collecting it in an airtight container and transporting it outside the site.

Drainage of water into the ground under the bath

The simplest option for draining is to drain water into the ground under the building. Usually this is how they get rid of water in the summer. Even when building a foundation under the sink, dig a shallow hole and fill it with a sand and gravel mixture. During the construction of the floor, bring the drain pipe right there. In this case, drain pipes are not installed. After washing the bath room should be thoroughly dried.

For structures erected on a strip foundation, this method poses a certain danger. The strip foundation is built using a concrete mix that absorbs moisture well. A small amount of sewage next to it will not affect the structure of the concrete, but intensive use of the bath can affect the strength of the foundation. Therefore, water is drained under the bath, if the number of washers is not more than three.

Drainage type sewerage for a bath

This method of drainage is used on soils that are well permeable to liquids, and in the case when groundwater is deep.

At a distance of 1–1.5 m from the foundation, dig a hole 50 cm deeper than the freezing level. The minimum diameter of the hole is 1 m (for a small number of washers).

This option is useful for those who are interested in how to make a drain in the bath at minimal cost.

Using a filtration well for draining a bath

There are few microorganisms in wastewater that cause a fermentation reaction, it is easier to clean. Therefore, drains can be collected in special wells for self-cleaning. A well is built no closer than 3-5 m from the wall of the bath. Find out in advance the depth of soil freezing.

Dig a hole 50 cm deeper than the freezing point. Set the horizontal dimensions at your discretion, usually the dimensions are determined by the diameter of the concrete pipe, which is installed in the pit to protect it from crumbling soil.

When laying pipes in a trench, comply with the following requirements:

The pipe must be free of turns to avoid clogging.

Drainage of water from the bath into a sealed drain pit

According to the requirements of the sanitary and epidemiological service, sewage cannot be poured into the ground without treatment. However, there is a rule that allows you to make a floor in a bath with a drain without violating the environment - with a volume of drains of less than 1 cubic meter. m. per day. After all, who measures these drains. Instead of a drain pit without a bottom, it is required to make an airtight pit if there are such reasons: the distance between the pit and the bath is less than 5 m, from the pit to the fence - less than 2 m, if it is impossible to build a pit deeper than the water intake level.

It is built at the lowest point of the site so that the water flows by gravity.

A sealed drain pit can be made by hand in the following sequence:

Dig a pit 2–2.5 m deep and the same size in a horizontal plane.

Using septic tanks for drains from the bath

The sewer system needs to be cleaned periodically. The most practical cleaning method is septic, which does not require the use of sewage trucks. Usually this method is used for frequent use of the bath, when large companies wash, or if there is a bathroom in the room. A large amount of sewage can quickly pollute the area near the building.

At a distance of at least 1.5 m from the wall of the bath, dig a hole 2–2.5 m deep, but it can be deeper.

Do-it-yourself water lock for a bath

To prevent cold air and unpleasant sewer odors from entering the bathhouse in winter, the drain device in the bathhouse is equipped with a water seal. It can be made from improvised means and installed in a drain pit in the following sequence:

Replace the handle on the plastic bucket with a metal one that can be made from galvanized iron.

Fulfillment of simple requirements will allow you to create an effective drainage system. The festive mood with which visitors come to the bathhouse is largely supported by the quality of the sewer system.

Do-it-yourself organization of a drain in a bath

The correct approach to organizing the discharge of wastewater from the bath involves compliance with building codes during operation. We offer you a description of the designs of popular drainage systems that can be

How to make a drain in the bath

An integral part of the steam room is water. But so that it does not stagnate, it is important to know how to make a drain in the bath. In this case, certain nuances must be taken into account. For buildings that are on piles, a thoughtful approach will be required so that communications do not freeze. Depending on the load on the premises, different decisions will be made.

Even before construction

It is worth thinking about the sewerage system even before the laying of the foundation begins. In this case, it will be much easier to draw a conclusion. The following points should be analyzed:

What is the size of the planned building?
What is the frequency of its use?
How many people will be inside at the same time?
Will a toilet be installed?
Will the washing room be a separate room or combined with a steam room?
What is the depth of soil freezing?
What is the composition of the soil?
Is there a central sewer?
How much free territory is there around the bath?

This questionnaire will greatly simplify the creation of a gasket drawing, and will also provide an opportunity to determine which of the options that will be described below is best for a particular situation.

Briefly about the floors

A big role in how effectively all moisture will be removed from the steam room or washing room is played by the correct approach to the manufacture of the floor, as well as the drain hole. The flooring can be wood or concrete.

The essence of the leak is that a space is left between the boards through which water can simply merge under the building. This solution is suitable for the southern regions. In the second version, the boards are laid in two layers with tight joints. In this case, a slope is observed towards the groove or drain hole.

The concrete floor must be insulated. If this is not done, then the legs will be very cold. When pouring, just as in the case of a non-leaking wooden floor, a slope is observed towards the drain hole or in the middle where the gutter will pass. Additionally, wooden gratings are laid on top to make it more comfortable for those staying in the room.

The ladder for different designs will also be different. If this is a bathhouse that is constantly heated, or it is known that the room does not freeze through, then you can install a product with a water damper. Usually it is located in the corner or in the middle, where all the liquid collects. Installing such a structure in a wooden floor will not be difficult:

Work is carried out before the final floor is installed.
The location of the drain hole is selected according to the slope of the surface.
Marking under the ladder is being made.
A hole is drilled so that a jigsaw file can be inserted. An opening is cut out for the product.
The entire surface of the floor is covered with a dense plastic film.
A slot is made in the place where the drain hole will be located.
The plastic drain is mounted in place.
The joints of the film are coated with silicone sealant.
Finished flooring is being produced.

Note! With this solution, even if water seeps somewhere under the floor, it will flow down the oilcloth to the drain point.

But most often, baths are used less frequently, and if a similar design is made there, then this may be fraught with the fact that the water inside freezes and the product simply breaks apart. To prevent this from happening, you can make a ladder with a barrier without liquid. One of the solutions is easy to implement in a wooden bath, the other in a bath with a concrete floor.

You will need a small sheet of galvanized metal measuring 62 × 38 cm.
It must be marked as follows: from each edge, set aside 2 points at a distance of 10 cm. The points of the two sides must match so that a square with a side of 10 cm is obtained on the corner.
In the resulting squares, a diagonal is drawn from the corner to the point.
All points are connected by a line to form a rectangle inside. These marks will serve as our guide for the fold.
At a distance of 17 cm from the edge of the smaller side in the middle of the sheet, we make a notch. This will be the center of the hole for the pipe if it is 50 mm in diameter.
Now, along the lines drawn, it is necessary to bend this sheet to get a small trough.
The sharp edges sticking out on the sides are bent to the larger side.
A plastic or wooden plank is laid inside. In size, it should be 39 × 17 × 0.5 cm.
The capacity of this container is about 6 liters. When the water begins to drain, it lifts the bar and freely enters the hole. After the level drops, the plank falls into place and closes the hole. This is done so that there is no smell.
Even if it happens that the board freezes to the trough, then when hot liquid gets in, it quickly thaws.

Note! Such a drain mechanism will be very relevant for baths that stand on a pile or column foundation, when the temperature is below zero under the floor.

In order to implement the project, you will need a plastic or durable rubber ball.
When the floor is poured, it will need to be placed above the drain hole and drowned a little there. From above it can be pressed with something so that it does not move.
An additional slope is created around the ball.
In this position, the ball remains until the screed is completely solidified. After it is very simply separated from the frozen mixture.
It is he who will serve as a shutter. When the water begins to drain, it will lift the ball. After that, it will fall into place and close the hole, preventing the penetration of an unpleasant odor. This should not freeze, and if it does, it thaws quickly enough.

Simple water collection systems

The simplest solution for draining liquid would be a leaky floor solution.

A hole is dug under the steam room (or washing room, if they are not combined). Its dimensions will coincide with the area from which the water will drain.
You need to deepen it a little below the freezing of the soil. Sand is laid on the bottom in a layer of 10 cm and is well rammed.
The rest of the space is covered with gravel or expanded clay so that another 10 cm is left to the top. Everything is carefully rammed.
The rest of the space is filled with soil that has been dug.

Nothing more needs to be done. The liquid will fall into this hole, be filtered and go further into the soil.

Note! This design will be relevant if the bath is used no more than once a week and at the same time there are 3-4 people in it. In the case when the soil under the bath is clayey, then it will be necessary to make a transition pipe to the pit, which can be located a few meters from the bath.

To implement the following idea, you will need a plastic or metal barrel with a volume of 200 liters.

A place is chosen near the bath.
A hole is dug to a depth below freezing of the soil. Its diameter should be 30 cm larger than the diameter of the barrel. This is necessary for ease of installation.
A layer of sand of 10 cm is laid on the bottom and is well rammed.
For another 10 cm, a layer of fine gravel is laid and is also well rammed.
A hole is cut in the side wall for a pipe through which water will flow.
A hole is drilled in the bottom with a drill and a feather drill for 26 mm. It is necessary for the ventilation hose.
A nut is screwed onto the ¾” branch pipe and a sealing gasket is put on. It slips through the hole. Another gasket is put on and the whole structure is fixed with a second nut. An adapter is screwed onto the upper thread for a HDPE pipe, which will act as a ventilation pipe.
The barrel is placed upside down in the pit.
A drain pipe is connected. It is desirable that it go inside by 15‒20 cm. So, when the soil is displaced, it will not be pulled out.
Approximately to the middle of the pit, it is covered with gravel and rammed, but so as not to damage the barrel. The remaining space is filled with soil.

This disposal method is also suitable for non-clay soils. The capacity is quite enough for 5 people to take a bath at the same time once a week.

Systems in heavy use

In cases where the bath will be used more intensively or there will be a toilet in it, it is necessary to provide solutions that will allow the system to cope with a large volume of liquid. If the building is located near a private house and VOCs are provided for it, then you can draw a conclusion directly to it. The fastest way to prepare a single-chamber septic tank or cesspool, for this you need:

Dig a pit. Its depth should be just over 3 meters so that 3 concrete rings can easily fit, and they do not reach the surface by 30 cm.
If the bottom is planned to be made filtering, then a sand bed of 20 cm is made, a layer of crushed stone of 30 cm is laid on top. Everything is well rammed. If not, then concrete is poured in a layer of 20 cm and the rings are immersed in it.
The walls can be strengthened in another way, for example, laid out of brick. In this case, it is necessary to make masonry with holes for water drainage.
A suitable hole is made to enter the sewer pipe.
From above, the pit is closed with a reinforced concrete slab.
A ventilation pipe is installed in the lid.

Such a septic tank is cleaned with a sewer. It must be positioned so that it has an entrance. The distance to the building must be at least 2 m. It is possible further, but then communications will have to be laid to a greater depth.

In order to increase the interval between cleanings, you can make several cameras. In this case, the water will be cleaned more efficiently, and it will also be possible to increase the volume of average daily flows. The essence of the device is to make the first two containers sealed according to the described method, and make the last one with a filter bottom. At the same time, they are connected to each other with the help of pipes. In the first and second compartments, heavy particles settle. There they are decomposed by bacteria. Partially purified water enters the third section, which then goes into the ground.

Alternatively, you can use plastic containers or buy a ready-made septic tank. Also, the output of wastewater from the last chamber can be carried out to the filtration fields. To do this, sufficient space must be available for their organization.

The most expensive option would be to install a ready-made system. All actions are carried out automatically. At the output, cleaning reaches 98%. Water is drained using a drainage pump. She can water the garden or vegetable garden, except for fruit and berry plants. The installation of such a unit comes down to preparing a pit and supplying a drain pipe. Electricity is also needed for the compressors. It can be located near sources of drinking water.

How to make a drain in the bath - wastewater disposal from the bath photo

Learn how to make a drain in the bath. The article describes possible options for a wastewater discharge device.

Having your own sauna is the dream of most homeowners. Many of them embark on self-construction to make their dream come true. One of the most important points in the construction is the organization of water drainage. A well-designed and installed structure will protect the foundation and wooden parts from destruction, prevent the possible appearance of fungus and unpleasant odors. How to make a drain in the bath according to all the rules? Let's figure it out.

The collection of wastewater in the bath can be carried out in different ways. The choice of the best option depends on what floors are planned to be laid. They may or may not leak. In the first case, it is planned to equip a special reservoir for collecting water, from which effluents will go into the sewer. In the second case, an inclined floor is equipped, and gutters and ladders are mounted along which water will drain.

In any case, the sewerage system must be equipped before laying the floors. The general scheme of its installation is as follows:

On this, the installation of sewage inside the bath can be considered completed. It remains only to connect sanitary equipment and a toilet bowl to the system, if necessary. Now it's time to tackle the outdoor sewerage.

Video - the process of installing a sewer in a bath with your own hands

Prices for pipes for external sewerage

pipes for outdoor sewage

How to choose a waste disposal method?

There can be many options for organizing an external bath sewer. When choosing one of them, be sure to consider the following points:

estimated intensity of use of the bath;
building dimensions;
type of soil on the site;
soil freezing depth;
the presence or absence of a sewer system on the site;
Possibility of connection to the centralized sewerage system.

These are the most important aspects that will determine the best way to divert water. For example, for a small bath, where two or three people will wash once a week during the warm season, it is not worth equipping a complex sewer system using soil filtration. A drain pit or even a pit under the building will be quite enough here. Whereas for a bath in which it is planned to wash all year round, a more complex drainage system will be needed.

The type of soil is also important. For well-absorbing sandy soils, a drainage well is the best solution. This is not suitable for clay soils. Here, the best option would be to equip a drain pit, from where drains will be periodically removed. When installing the system, one should not forget about the level of soil freezing. If it is not taken into account, water in pipes laid above this level will freeze in severe cold and destroy the sewer.

Methods for arranging wastewater disposal

There are several effective and relatively low-cost ways to organize the draining of water in a bath. All of them are fairly easy to do on your own. Consider their main advantages and disadvantages.

Drain well

It is a sealed container in which drains from the bath accumulate. When the well is full, it is emptied using a special machine. System advantages:

simplicity in arrangement;
It does not require special care;
low cost.

The disadvantages include the following:

the need for regular calls cesspool machines, which incurs certain costs.
organization of convenient access for special equipment to the well;
the drain well should be equipped at the lowest point of the site.

drainage well

It is carried out in the form of a pit filled with filtrate, which cleans the drains. As a filler, you can use sand, crushed stone, small pieces of brick or furnace slag. Design advantages:

low cost;
simplicity in arrangement.

Drainage well - as an element of diverting water from the bath

The system has one drawback - the need to change the contaminated filtrate or clean it every six months, which requires serious labor.

Pit

A hole dug directly under the floor of the washing room in the bath. Its bottom is filled with filtrate, through which runoff passes, is cleaned and gradually passes into the lower layers of the soil. System advantages:

the use of pipelines and other structural elements is not required;
low installation cost.

A pit is the easiest way to equip a sewer in a bath

The disadvantages include:

low throughput;
the technology is unsuitable for use in the construction of a bath with a slab foundation;
suitable for use only on highly absorbent soils.

Using the Ground Filtration Method

It is a system consisting of a septic tank and pipes diverging from it, through which purified water is discharged. Pipes are laid at a slope so that the liquid flows by gravity and is absorbed by the soil. Design advantages:

completely autonomous work;
can be used to equip a full-fledged sewer system with several points for collecting wastewater;
the possibility of cleaning not only "gray", but also "black" drains, in this case at least an anaerobic septic tank is installed.

Significant disadvantages:

the need to allocate a site for a septic tank;
time-consuming installation process, the need for a large number of land works;
rather high cost of equipment and consumables.

As an option, you can consider connecting to a centralized sewer. This is the optimal solution to the problem of wastewater. In this case, no external devices for receiving and processing wastewater will be needed. Another plus is the ability to connect several points of water intake at once. The disadvantages of this option can be considered the high cost of the services of contractors and bureaucratic red tape, which often occurs when issuing permits.

Drain well: manufacturing technology

Drainage pit is a practical solution for wastewater disposal. It can be set up in a variety of ways. The easiest is to dig a plastic or metal container into the ground. You can make a hole from reinforced concrete rings, fill the walls with concrete or lay them out with bricks. Let's consider the last option in detail.

Drainage well - an excellent solution for draining sewage

We start by choosing the right place. It should be located at the lowest point of the site, since the sewage will have to move by gravity. In addition, we take into account that the pit will regularly need to be freed from drains, so it is necessary to provide a convenient access for cesspool cars. Having outlined the location, we get to work:

The drain pit is ready for use.

drainage well

Such a system can only be installed in a site with deep groundwater. Otherwise, due to the design features of the drainage well, it will be constantly filled with groundwater, and there will no longer be room for drains. Before starting work, we determine the place where the well will be located. It is optimal to take it from the wall of the bath by 2 meters. If the distance is greater, certain difficulties will arise with the organization of the necessary slope of the drain pipe, which is necessary for the drains to drain by gravity.

A drainage well is a great way to equip a sewer in a bath

In addition, the close location of the well threatens the foundation with wetting or subsidence. Having decided on the installation site, we find out what materials we need for installation. It depends on the type of soil. If it does not crumble, we will not need to strengthen the walls of the pit. However, such soils are not found everywhere. Most often, the walls need to be strengthened. You can do this in different ways:

Let's get to work:

The drainage well is ready for use.

Tip: If the site has sandy, well-absorbing soil, instead of a well, you can equip a horizontal drainage pad. It is a trench about 1 m long, 0.3 m wide and 1 m deep. A crushed stone pillow 20 cm high is laid out on the bottom, soil is poured on top. Drainage is brought directly to this pillow, cleaned and absorbed into the soil.

Prices for a drainage well

drainage well

Pit

The pit is a reservoir for wastewater, located directly under the wash room. You need to understand that such a system will be effective only for small baths that are used infrequently. Pit construction work is carried out in the following sequence:

We dig a hole under the future floor, the volume of which will be enough to collect water.
We strengthen the walls of the pit in any way possible: brick, wild stone or slate.
At the bottom of the resulting tank we lay a filter pad. First, a layer of crushed stone, broken brick or expanded clay is laid. We put sand on top of this layer.
We mount logs on top of the pit. We lay a wooden floor on them, the floorboards of which should not fit snugly against each other so that water can drain into the pit.

Tip: The floorboards of the wooden floor laid over the pit do not need to be nailed to the joists. In this case, they can, if necessary, be removed and taken out to dry.

There is another option for arranging a pit, which in this case plays the role of a water collector, from which effluents, having reached a certain level, are discharged into a sewer or septic tank. Such a system is usually arranged under "leaking" floors. Let's get to work:

Installing a water seal. This element is necessary to prevent the penetration of unpleasant sewer odors into the bathhouse. The simplest version of a homemade water seal is a metal plate installed with an inclination. We fix it to the pipe in three places, leaving the lower part unfixed. Important: there should be 5 cm from the bottom of the pit to the bottom edge of the plate. Another option for a home-made water seal is a children's rubber ball fixed above the pit drain. When the tank is filled with water, it floats up and opens the drain. As soon as the water drains, the ball drops and closes the pipe.

Ground filtration

One of the main elements of such a system is an autonomous septic tank, which is both a sump and a distribution well. Drainage pipes depart from it, which distribute purified water throughout the site. A septic tank can be purchased at the store or assembled by yourself. In the latter case, the easiest option for self-production is the construction of plastic or metal containers. A septic tank made of concrete rings, as well as a structure made of concrete or brick, works effectively.

A septic tank is an excellent solution for the removal of sewage

In any case, the installation of the system begins with the installation of a septic tank. We install the tank to a depth of 1.2-2.5 m. It is not necessary to lower the tank deeper, otherwise there may be a problem with the post-treatment of wastewater, which is carried out by anaerobic bacteria. We bring a sewer pipe to the septic tank. It should be buried below the freezing level of the soil. After installing the septic tank, we proceed to the preparation of drains, the so-called drainage pipes.

Their length and diameter depend on the number of drains. Most often, standard plastic pipes with a diameter of 11 cm are used. You can take ordinary plastic sewer pipes and make holes in them. You need to know that in the upper part of the part, the diameter of the holes should be smaller than those located in the bottom. This is done to ensure that the outflow of water is uniform. The number of holes at the beginning and at the end of the pipe also differs. At the very beginning, perforation is performed more often, and at the end - less often, and most of them fall on the lower half of the pipe.

For proper arrangement of drainage, several rules are used:

the length of each drain cannot be more than 25 m;
the pipe laying depth is about 1.5 m, always below the level of soil freezing;
minimum distance between drains - 1.5 m;
the minimum width of the trench for the pipe is 0.5 m, the optimal width is 1 m.

After the pipes have been prepared, you can proceed with their installation:

Scheme - the use of a septic tank as an element of arranging a sewer in a bath

Important: The soil filtration system requires periodic maintenance. It consists in replacing the silted sand and gravel cushion and the soil under it. Depending on the workload of the system, such work is carried out once every 10-15 years or less.

Properly organized draining of water in the bath is the key to its long and trouble-free functioning. It will protect the building from the damaging effects of moisture and prevent contamination of the site with wastewater. Even for small baths, the arrangement of a sewer system is necessary, especially for large rooms with a separate shower room and toilet. The organization of the drain should be treated with all responsibility, avoiding mistakes and imperfections. And then the new bath will only please its owner with a long, impeccable service.

A well-planned bath project not only increases the operational life of the building, but also protects it from the appearance of mold and pathogens, and also increases the heat transfer of the heating installation. The main requirement of the bath is a thorough draining of wastewater.

A properly designed structure using concrete and boards will eliminate odors and reduce the growth of pathogens.

How to make a drain in the bath with your own hands? You will find the answer to this question in our material.

How is the sewerage system arranged?

The correct outflow of wastewater in the bath can be done in several ways:

flowing;
not flowing.

In the first case, it is collected in a special department, where the waste liquid flows into the sewer pipes. In the second option, during the construction of the building, a certain angle of inclination is made with additional gutters to drain dirty water.

A detailed diagram helps to avoid common mistakes in self-construction. It includes:

Trench preparation for pipe laying. The depth of the grooves must not exceed 0.5 m. During the laying process, the correct angle of inclination must be observed. To do this, each subsequent pipe is fixed 3 cm above the previous one.

The bottom of the trench is sprinkled with sand. The height of such a substrate should be 16 cm after tight tamping. In the process of laying, it is important to observe the angle of inclination.

Further, all the pipes are interconnected and laid on the bottom of the pits. If there is a bathroom in the bath, then it is necessary to install an additional sewer riser. To do this, it is fixed at the wall surface with a special fixative.

For proper circulation of air masses in the toilet, it is necessary to install additional ventilation. This will reduce the lingering of unpleasant odors indoors.

After that, proceed to laying the flooring. In the process of installing the sewer, it is necessary to attach additional metal gratings. They will prevent large debris from entering the drain hole.

To eliminate an unpleasant smell, special water seals will help. They are rubber pads that are fixed in the area of \u200b\u200bthe drain hole.

The main parameters for choosing a sewer system for a bath

How to make a drain in the bath? Before proceeding with the construction of an external sewage system, it is recommended to consider several main factors:

intensity of use of the bath room;
building dimensions;
the type of soil composition in the area where the premises will be located;
the level of freezing of the soil cover in winter;
connection to the central sewer.

These factors are an integral part of the initial stages of designing a bath. For frequent use of the premises, it is necessary to design a complex sewerage system.

In addition, ground filtration is carried out. In addition, it is enough to use a sewage pit. Waste will gradually be absorbed into the thickness of the soil cover.

If the site is dominated by sandy soil, then drainage rings are used for reliability. For clay soil, the best solution would be to strengthen the internal walls. As the pit fills with waste, it must be cleaned with special equipment.

Advantages and disadvantages of sewer drain devices

To date, there are a huge number of devices for arranging drain sewers for a bath. They have both positive and negative sides. These include:

Drainage well. It is a deep pit, the walls of which are filled with filtrate. For this, sand, small gravel, pebbles are used.

The advantages of this method include: low cost of materials, ease in the process of arrangement. The disadvantages include the laborious process of replacing filtered masses with new ones.

Drain well. This is a large container for collecting sewage liquids, in which waste from the bath gradually accumulates. As it is filled, it is cleaned using special equipment or a machine.

The advantages of such a system are: ease of installation and arrangement of the drain pit, low cost. The negative qualities include: frequent cleaning, inconvenient location of the drain well. As a rule, installation should be carried out at the lowest point of the site.

Pit. It is located under the floor covering of the bath. Drainage waste is collected in this pit and is self-cleaned through a filtrate of fine materials.

The positive qualities of the system include: low cost of materials, easy installation. The disadvantages of such a structure are: low throughput, it can be used on sandy and sandy loamy soils.

Ground filtration. This is a system that consists of a septic tank and several pipes. Purified water flows through them. The pipeline is laid at a certain angle, due to which all the liquid will independently drain and be absorbed by the soil.

The advantages of such a system are considered: it can be used for the entire sewer network, it is used to thoroughly clean the liquid from harmful impurities. The photo of the drain in the bath shows the process of filtering sewage waste.

Photo drain in the bath

Proper drainage of water from the bath is one of the most important points in the construction. Its durability directly depends on this, the absence of harmful smells of raw materials or fungus in it, and how often the foundation will have to be repaired later. In this article, we offer you to understand the various options for the device of the drainage system.

The easiest way is to install a drain pipe

The simplest and most tried and tested for decades draining water in a bath is a drain pipe, which is laid even during the construction of the steam room foundation. It must be done obliquely with respect to the drain pit itself - so you do not have to additionally insulate it.

The pit itself should be dug at a distance of 3 to 5 meters from the bath, and it is imperative to strengthen its edges from possible collapses. It is better if these are concrete rings - or a frame filled with concrete. But the bottom of the pit is important to make it so that the water in it is absorbed into the soil freely.

So that the drain of water for the bath does not become clogged, it is advisable to make the pipe completely without bends - after all, it is from them that it is most difficult to remove debris. And yes - you can only take a sewer pipe for these purposes, the diameter of which has its own strictly defined value.

Installing a drain pipe is quite simple, just follow these instructions:

Step 1. A pit is being prepared, and a trench is digging from it to the bathhouse.
Step 2. A drain pipe is installed - and it is not necessary to insulate it, but it will not hurt.
Step 3. A cement floor is made in the washing room, with a slope around the entire perimeter to the drain pipe. It is important that the floor really turns out without dents - then water should not stagnate anywhere.
Step 4. So that the bath can work all year round without any problems, the water drain is equipped with a grid - all garbage will collect on it, and there will be no blockages in the pipe.
Step 5. After all this, you can lay tile tiles on the cement floor - of the color and style that you like and matches the style of the bath interior. And already wooden grates with special impregnation are placed on the tiles - so that during pleasant bath procedures you do not have to walk barefoot on hot tiles.

Where and how best to drain the water?

But where the water itself will go - it all depends on the planned budget and the load on the drainage. So, it never hurts to build a separate cesspool at a distance from the bath, and already lay a trench from it and lay a sewer tube in it in good insulation.

And the most budget option is right under the washing bookmark of gravel (both large and small), where the water will go.

Funnel - easy

Some attendants still make something like a funnel under the washing and steam rooms - they concrete its walls and smear them with liquid glass. In the center of such a funnel is a drain pipe that extends beyond the bath: into a pit, the walls of which are reinforced with bricks, or the pit itself is an old iron barrel without a bottom.

At the bottom of the pit - gravel, on top - a cover made of thick metal and a hole for a ventilation pipe. Judging by the reviews, such a simple but reliable system can not be opened for ten years.

We also recommend reading the article about installing a shower drain in the floor under the tiles on the Vannapedia website - the technology for installing a classic water drain system is very well described there.

Drain hole outside the bath

But some builders today are convinced that water must be taken out of the bath. Like, the sand dries for a long time even in summer, and in winter all the water that goes under the foundation in the old fashioned way will simply turn into ice - and you can forget about warm floors in the steam room until spring.

Others are sure that very little water is used for one or two people in the bath, the steam room is usually used from time to time, and if the sand is not taken as ordinary, but as a large fraction, then no problems should arise ...

But the pit itself can be made using a technology that has recently become especially popular among attendants: the pit is made from the tires of a jeep or a car similar to it. Water flows into this pit through plastic pipes, and so that neither cold nor unpleasant odors get into the bathhouse in winter, a water seal is made - something like a hydraulic lock:

Point 1. A five-liter plastic bucket is taken, a handle is made of galvanized tape, and an iron pipe is placed on the lowest cord from the top tire - across the pit. A bucket is hung on it - it will hang like a cauldron over a fire, below the upper level of the pit.

Point 2. A corrugation is put on the end of the sewer pipe, which is lowered from above into the bucket - it will be at a distance of 10 cm from the bottom and 10 cm from the edge, i.e. in the middle of the bucket. That's the whole hydraulic lock - after draining, all the water will be collected in a bucket and overflow over the edge, gently flowing into the pit. And when the drain stops, the water that remains in the bucket will not allow the same air to enter the bath. And, even if dirt or leaves settle on the bottom of the bucket, it can always be turned over to clean it.

What system to make for a large number of people?

For a steam room, which three or four friends visit from time to time, one water outlet in the bath is needed, but for a whole company of regulars it is already different. In a bath for a small number of bathers, a drain pit is usually arranged right under the foundation. Its walls can be lined with bricks and covered with coarse sand - for a summer bath, that's it. But in the second case, you will already need a special pipe that will go to the drainage well - and below the freezing level of the soil, otherwise it will freeze. Or you can combine both methods - using the first in summer, and the second in winter.

And so that the water from the bath does not waste in vain and does not pollute the environment, you can use a septic tank that will clean it and distribute it through irrigation pipelines. The most complex and expensive way to remove and purify water from a bath is a well with biological filters. It contains slag, brick battle and rubble. The whole secret is that with the constant entry of bath wastewater into the well, it eventually becomes covered with silt, and in the sludge there are microorganisms that then purify the wastewater. Such a septic tank is usually built in the lowest place on the site.

That's all! Nothing complicated - a competent drain in the bath can be done with your own hands.

The device for draining water in a bath is one of the most important processes, without the proper organization of which a comfortable and long-term operation of the structure under construction is impossible. Therefore, the implementation of this type of work is given a significant amount of time and money. The entire system for draining waste and used water in the bath consists of two parts:

performing a drain inside the bath, which consists in a special floor design;
subsequent drainage of wastewater outside the bathhouse through any of the sewerage options (drain well or pit, etc.).

Drainage device in the bath floor

As a rule, the drainage of wastewater in the bath is provided directly in the floor structure, and is carried out immediately during its construction. This is the easiest and most effective way to organize the draining of water in the bath.

In most cases, the three most common design options for draining water in a bath with different floors are used:

flowing;
non-leaking;
concrete.

Draining water in a bath in a leaky floor

To make a drain of water in a bath in a leaking floor is a fairly simple structural and technological task. But for all its simplicity, the design under consideration has a significant drawback - its operation is possible only in the warm season. Given the low cost and ease of the device for owners of baths in summer cottages, using them only in the season, it is quite a common and convenient solution.

a hole is dug to a depth of about 60-70 cm, approximately in the center of the pit, dug to make the foundation of the bath;
then, from the pit towards the sewer well or where the drain pit is planned, a trench is dug into which the pipe is laid with a minimum slope of 5-6 degrees;
then it is necessary to fill in the foundations of the bath, then along the edges of the underground it is necessary to excavate the soil and pour the screed. Its purpose is to direct the water flowing from the bath floor, first into a pit, and from there through a pipe into a sewer or drain well or pit;
make the floors of the bath from wooden boards, which are laid on pre-mounted beams.

Do not forget about the mandatory processing of all used wooden structures under the floors. It consists in antiseptic absolutely all and waterproofing of hidden wooden surfaces.

Beams, logs and boards used for bath floors should preferably be made of hardwood, this will increase their service life. The bath floor boards are laid with a gap of at least 5 mm, are not nailed, but are fastened along the edges, which makes it possible to periodically remove them for drying.

Advantages of draining water in a leaking bath floor:

low cost of materials used;
simplicity of design and technology of the device, which allows you to perform the whole range of work with your own hands;
simplicity and simplicity of repair work;
a sufficiently high level of comfort provided by the use of wood, and the feeling of a "warm" floor.

The disadvantages of this design, in addition to the complexity of use in cold weather, include a rather short service life. This is partly offset by the ease and low cost of repairs. In addition, the installed wooden pallet, taking on some of the water, will also slightly increase the service life.

Draining with non-leaking floor

The considered option is to drain the water in the bath - the work is somewhat more complicated than the previous one. However, it is devoid of the disadvantages described above, can be easily used all year round, and is more reliable.

Work sequence:

The design of the water drain in the bath under consideration is technologically more complex, financially more expensive, but it is also much more reliable and has a longer service life without the need for repair.

Drainage when laying a concrete floor

Concrete floors in the bath have one important disadvantage, compared to any wooden option - they are cold. But, despite this circumstance, when building a bath in modern conditions, it is relatively often used. The reason is that they are durable and easy to use, tiles can be used over them, and modern ceramic tiles are one of the most durable and reliable materials. In addition, the tile has an attractive appearance, so that various design solutions are possible. In addition, a wooden pallet is often laid on top of concrete or tiles, reducing the problem of a "cold" bath floor.

This drain design is carried out when the foundation work has already been completed, before the start of the flooring work.

Work sequence:

make a hole in the insulation necessary to install a ladder to drain water;
from the lower mark of the drain, install a chute attached to the side of the ladder so that the slope is at least 5 degrees;
connect the ladder with a pipe to the existing drainage system (sewer or drain well, pit, drainage system);
when performing a finishing floor, regardless of whether tiles are used, seal all joints and install the grate on the ladder.

With this design, the drain is installed either in the center of the steam room, or in one of the corners near one of the walls. The second option is much simpler, so it is much more common. After completing the above work, the following scheme is formed:

used drains fall into the drain;
from there, through the gutter, they follow into the ladder;
from the ladder they move along the pipe to the sewer system provided and operating on the site.

Aftertreatment Systems

There are several of the most common and frequently used drainage systems:

using the principle of natural filtration;
drain hole;
construction of a drain well;
using a pit directly into the soil under the bath;
common sewer for the entire site.

natural filtration

Relatively complex system that can be used with a relatively large volume of wastewater, except when it contains solid particles. The system consists of a container and an extensive system of sewer pipes that extend from it and are located over the area of the site.

The tank contains a septic tank, which partially processes particles polluting the water. The volume of the container must exceed the volume of drains at least three times. With a certain frequency, the septic tank in the tank changes, and the sewage machine pumps out the sediment that accumulates in it.

drain hole

A fairly simple design, can be used when groundwater is deep enough. The volume of capacity that the drain pit needs depends on the number of drains. For example, if the bathhouse is operated by three people, a sufficient volume of the drain pit is 75 liters. The pit is located 2-3 meters from the building. In most cases, the edges are simply reinforced with ordinary ceramic bricks or stone, after which filter material is placed there. It is usually arranged from two layers: in the lower one - fragments and crumbs of brick, expanded clay, crushed stone, and in the upper one - building sand.

Quite often, instead of fixing the walls with bricks, they use the digging in of a plastic or metal barrel, from which the bottom is first knocked out, and numerous holes are made in the walls.

Drain well

No less simple and affordable for self-manufacturing design. It can be used when groundwater is close to the surface and a drain hole is not possible. The drain well consists of a sealed container, to which a pipe is connected for the flow of effluents. Periodically, the liquid should be pumped out by a sewage machine. Usually arranged at a distance of no more than 5 meters from the building.

Pit (soil under the building)

Quite often used design, which is popular due to the simplicity and reliability of the design. The pit is made directly under the floor of the steam room. It is filled with some kind of filtration material, which is usually expanded clay, crushed stone, sand, or a mixture thereof. In fact, this system also uses the principle based on the natural filtration of wastewater. Its use is possible when their volume is insignificant or the bath is used infrequently.

sewerage system

If a single sewerage system is completed and operates on the site, then wastewater is discharged directly into it. For normal operation, it is enough to observe the difference in level marks.

Conclusion

Properly and correctly executed water drainage system will help to increase the service life of the bath and the level of benefit and comfort from visiting it.