How to make a sewerage system in a private house. Correct installation of sewer pipes in a private house. Design of a treatment system in sandy soil

Most of those who live in an apartment do not think about how the sewer system works and is designed. However, if you live in a private house that does not have a centralized sewage system, the issue of waste disposal is always relevant for you. You need to approach the installation of sewerage in a private house with your own hands carefully. As a rule, the first step is to install the water supply pipes, and only then install the sewerage system.

Design

Before you start work, you need to think and plan everything. The best option There will be a design project: you can think about how to compactly arrange the pipes, and also take into account the design features of the house. Moreover, the project can provide for the location plumbing equipment and indicate the method of connecting pipes to it, indicating the number of fittings required. In certain areas of the system, it is necessary to indicate the diameter and footage. This information will be useful to you when purchasing building materials. So, now let's see what is required to complete the work.

We collect building materials and tools

The main element internal system The sewerage system is a common riser. It is used to drain all waste. The wastewater then enters the external sewer system, which discharges it into the septic tank. For this system to work properly and efficiently, it is extremely important not to skimp on quality building materials. This is perhaps the main requirement for the purchase of materials. So, you will need:

• Pipes of different diameters. As a rule, pipes of Ø 100, 75, 50 and 30 mm can be used in home sewerage.
• Bends that must match the diameter of the pipes.
• Tees of appropriate diameters.
• Reducers and adapters.
• Plugs for sockets.
• Pipe fastenings.
• Sealant.

When purchasing pipes, it is important to consider that the diameter of the riser should be the largest. As a rule, a Ø 100 mm pipe is used to drain drainage from the toilet, the same for the riser. A riser is installed in each case in different places. This will be influenced by the characteristics of your home. As for tools, you will need:

• Hacksaw.
• Bulgarian.
• Level.
• Pencil.
• Hammer.
• Hammer.
• Screwdriver Set.
• Caulk gun.

Features and types of sewerage in a private house

The entire sewerage system of a private house is divided into three components:

1. Internal.
2. Outdoor.
3. Septic tank or cesspool.

To ensure that you do not encounter any difficulties during the operation of the sewer system, you need to think through everything carefully.

Internal sewerage

If you compare the city's internal sewerage system with the sewerage system of a private house, you will notice big differences; moreover, in a private house it is much more complicated. This is explained by the fact that an autonomous sewer system often serves not only the house, but also a bathhouse, jacuzzi, shower, barbecue, summer kitchen and so on - buildings that require improvement are added. In order for the entire sewerage system to work perfectly, it is necessary to understand the peculiarities of its design; in case of problems, they can be easily eliminated. Target internal sewerage– collection of wastewater from all plumbing fixtures. It consists of:

1. Plumbing devices.
2. Pipeline.

Please note that pipes can be laid both on top of walls and inside them. If you want to hide pipes in the wall, then this is a very labor-intensive job. Sewerage can also be laid in the floor. Although it is not always possible to route the pipes this way. Some plumbing fixtures are designed in such a way that their connection to the sewer requires the presence of open system. In this case, the pipe at a certain angle should be attached to the wall using special fasteners.

Note! Most important aspect laying sewer pipes - strict adherence to slope. Only in this case the possibility of system clogging will be minimal.

Please note, pipes different diameters require different slopes. For example, a pipe Ø 50 mm must have minimum slope 25 mm, and the maximum or standard is 35 mm per linear meter. If a pipe Ø 100 mm is laid, then its slope should be from 12 mm to 20 mm. Accordingly, a pipe Ø 125 mm – from 10 mm to 15 mm. These indicators are important, because it is from them that you should start when making a sewer system for a private house with your own hands. If you make even a small mistake in the slope, you will be guaranteed constant blockages. It is for this reason that when laying pipes of any diameter it is necessary to use a level.

Note! Maintenance of open sewer pipes is much easier. If you lay the sewer in the wall, the problems will increase.

Once the system is assembled, it should be checked by pouring water and noting the flow rate. Here are some tips on how to do it right inner part sewer:

• The pipe entrance from the plumbing connection side should not be lower than the level of the pipe at the entrance to sewer riser.
• The drain line laid in the ceiling should not be more than ten meters long.
• All pipes must be connected with special fittings in the form of tees.
• Each joint must have a rubber seal.

As for the riser, it is a vertically installed pipe, which must have a diameter of at least 100 mm. Using a special coupling, an inspection should be installed at a height of one meter from the floor. The pipes are brought to the roof for the purpose of ventilation and to prevent the formation of a vacuum in the system. As a result, the sewer riser goes to the roof. The height of the pipe above the roof should be about 700 mm.

Note! If there is an unheated room on some section of the route or riser, then the pipe should be insulated.

As a result, the riser will be connected to the outer part of the sewer. Its structure will be discussed further.

External sewerage

We can say that installation of external sewerage is more complex and responsible. This also applies to the choice of pipes. Not all pipes will be suitable for this purpose. It is recommended to buy corrugated or PVC pipes s made of polypropylene. Before starting installation, you should consider how the pipes will pass. The system must be installed without sharp turns. If you need to turn, make it less sharp. Moreover, it is recommended to lay the pipe at a depth of up to 800 mm. Like the internal system, the external one should also be laid at a sufficient slope. When the trenches are ready, you can do small pillow from sand, preferably coarse-grained. The main thing is not to spare the sand and to compact the resulting cushion well, because loosened soil tends to settle. As for the angle of inclination, the calculations here will differ from those for internal sewerage. For example, if a 100Ø mm pipe is laid in a trench, then for every ten meters the angle should be up to 20 mm. This is an ideal indicator.

Many people who want to live in an individual building are interested in a separate sewer system for a private house: how to properly construct a pipeline system for discharging and discharging dirty liquid. However, you should immediately decide whether it will be possible to install the sewer pipe system yourself or whether you will need professional outside help.

In order to save money, it is possible to build a sewer system with your own hands, since it is not very difficult. The main argument in favor of installing a local sewer system is the presence or absence of a central highway. With an existing central sewer system close to the house, laying a sewer system in a private house will not cause any difficulties.

Due to the labor-intensive nature of the work process, the greatest effort is required for external sewerage in a private house. It is necessary to dig several trenches to lay pipes in them to a depth of 50-150 cm. In other words, the laying depth is provided below the soil freezing level in winter period. If there is no central system running near the house, then there is nothing left to do but consider an autonomous sewage system in a private house. There are several options for doing this yourself. They will be discussed further.

Arrangement of your own sewerage system should take into account the following points:

• residents will be in the house periodically or live here all the time;
• the number of residents regularly present in the housing;
• marking of occurrence of natural waters;
• the size of the site, whether there will be enough space to use it for the construction of treatment plants;
• soil features near the house;
• weather conditions of this area.

More information can be gleaned by studying the necessary sections in SNiP and SanPin.

Drainage systems in an individual home are divided into categories:

• storage (bottomless cesspool in the form of a regular pit, closed storage with a bottom);
• treatment facilities (1-2- and 3-chamber septic tanks, septic tank based on a biofilter, with regular air supply).

Construction of a private sewer network

Preparation period

Before you begin installing a sewer system in a private house, it makes sense to thoroughly plan the wastewater disposal system and prepare design documentation on how to install a sewer system in a private house. The optimal solution in terms of convenience is one in which the kitchen and bathrooms are located nearby in the house being built. And if these premises are close, the points where the pipeline exits to the street.

In a house with two floors, it makes sense to place bathrooms one below the other. This simplifies the installation procedure for internal sewerage and its subsequent repair. Difficulties will arise if there is a bathhouse and a swimming pool in private housing. At large quantities bathrooms and large volumes of wastewater will require a sewer pump.

If possible, a minimum of connections, joints and junctions are provided on internal sewerage networks. When creating a design for drainage networks, it would be useful to take into account the landscape features of the territory. The guideline when choosing a location for a septic tank should be the requirement that it be located at the lowest point, and the pipeline must run obliquely. When deciding on the option for installing treatment facilities and the depth of the external pipeline, it is important to know the height of the location groundwater on the site and the depth of soil freezing.

Sewer diagram for individual housing

The sewerage scheme consists of two components:

• internal with a pipeline inside the house and with all the plumbing fixtures;
• external, which includes a well, a pipeline outside the boundaries of the house and an installation with treatment facilities.

You can get help in drawing up a diagram of a small individual home by contacting specialists. Although it is possible to draw up a diagram yourself for a house of one or two floors, the main thing is to stick to the basics. When developing a schematic image, one should proceed from the location of the main collecting pipe and riser, since sewer pipes are laid out from them.

What do you need to draw up a sewerage diagram in your own home?

• draw up a large-scale plan of the house;
• clarify the locations of risers;
• mark all plumbing fixtures on the plan;
• take into account how they will connect;
• depict all the pipes that connect the riser with all plumbing fixtures (planning is carried out separately for each floor);
• calculate the dimensions of the riser and fan pipe;
• calculate by addition the length of the pipeline adjusted for output;
• draw up a diagram of the external sewerage system.

A diagram for the sewerage of your two-story house is presented. It shows that the pipe goes into a septic tank or storage tank at some angle.

Another thing is the first septic tank. The list of its advantages is much wider. The volume of a septic tank is calculated based on the number of people living in the house. When 3 family members live in a house, the volume of the septic tank is equal to 2-3 cubic meters. Despite the fact that the average consumption per day per resident is 250 liters, the sludge lasts three days.

Sewer pipeline layout

Construction of internal networks involves optimal choice from PVC or PP pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and 110 mm gray. Their transportation and installation are simple, affordable, and no specialized equipment is required for installation. Compared to cast iron counterparts, they are more durable and not too expensive. For them, choosing the necessary elbows and tees is not difficult. In places where they are joined, a special plumbing sealant is used.

For external networks they produce special kind pipes with a distinctive orange color. Due to the fact that they absorb significant loads from the gravity of the soil, their degree of rigidity is quite high. Sometimes a corrugated two-layer pipe is used.

It is advisable to provide space for a riser in the toilet. Possible open or hidden installation. The connection between the internal networks and the riser is made through various adapters and tees. The connection of waste pipes with plumbing fixtures such as bathtubs and sinks is carried out using collectors. To avoid the appearance of unpleasant odors, water seals are used.

In general, the length of toilet drains should not exceed 1000 mm. To remove them, 110 mm polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride pipes are prepared. Waste liquid from the bathroom and kitchen is discharged through PVC pipes (diameter - 50 mm).

Another type of septic tank is represented by a sealed container with large dimensions, from which waste liquid is periodically removed by pumping with a sewer machine. This method is simpler than the previous one. To do this, they dig a hole in the area near the house and install a sealed container in it that receives waste liquid and waste from the entire home.

From inside the room, all pipes should go horizontally from the plumbing to the riser at an angle of 2-15 cm/meter. To ensure reliable turns, it is better to use 2 elbows (45 degrees) or 3 elbows (30 degrees), but not 1 elbow (90 degrees). Then the blockage is less likely to appear, and the cleaning process becomes much easier. The toilet is connected to the riser separately. This will make it possible for the plumbing siphons to be emptied of drain water.

Connection of other devices is made above the toilet. Risers on any floor are equipped with inspection hatches. To ensure normal sound insulation, they are covered with mineral wool or covered with a plasterboard box.

When installing external network the pipes leaving the house are collected together and connected to the street sewer system. If the drainage system is planned before the construction of the foundation has begun, then a sleeve must be installed in it, in the place of which a pipe with a diameter of 140-150 mm will be installed. To install an external network, dig a hole to the freezing depth of the soil and lay it on the bottom. sand cushion and when maintaining a 3% slope, pipes are laid. If it is impossible to provide for a greater laying depth, the pipeline is insulated. An inspection hatch is installed at the junction of the external and internal networks, in the pipe - check valve. This will protect the internal system from contamination by runoff from the street when the septic tank overflows. The septic tank is placed in an area of ​​3-4 m² near the local area.

Ventilation device diagram

Considerable importance is attached to the fan pipe. It is responsible for complete ventilation of the system and correct work septic tank It also maintains internal atmospheric pressure, protecting the network from water hammer and rarefaction of air. Ventilation allows you to extend the life of the system and the efficiency of its operation.

The fan pipe is a continuation of the riser. They take it out onto the roof of the building and install an audit in the area of ​​the joint. It is not allowed to combine ventilation of the sewerage system with the common house one. ventilation system or a chimney. If possible, the outlet of the fan pipe should be moved some distance from the door and window openings, balconies. On the roof, the minimum indentation should be 70 cm. Ventilation and chimney outlets should be arranged at a different height.

Treatment facility options for waste disposal

The sedimentation of heavy impurities in wastewater is provided in a septic tank - a settling tank. Following this, the exiting liquid is purified in a filtration well, where, along with mechanical purification, biological purification also occurs.

Such a container can be purchased ready-made in a store or made with your own hands from metal, plastic or any other material at hand. It is possible to mount from concrete rings, also laying out the bottom and attaching a metal hatch. The main thing is that the container is absolutely sealed. Cleaning with a sewer machine is carried out at intervals depending on the amount of wastewater. If there are 4 residents regularly living in a house, using a bathroom and toilet, sink, washing machine, the minimum capacity of a sealed storage tank is 8 cubic meters. The need for cleaning is once every two weeks.

A sealed cesspool is another option for how sewerage is arranged in a private house, suitable for high groundwater levels. At the same time, the land and water sources near the house are relatively safe from the possibility of contamination. However, a significant disadvantage of this type of system is the frequency of calls for sewage disposal equipment. Therefore, even during the construction of the system, you should choose a convenient location for the container so that the car can simply drive up to it. The hole should not be dug below 3 meters from the surface of the ground so that the cleaning hose can reach the bottom. The lid should be insulated to prevent the pipeline from freezing. The cost of such a sewer system in your home will be entirely determined by the type of material from which the storage tank is made. The most economical option is to buy used Eurocubes; the most expensive option is pouring concrete or brickwork. However, we should not forget about the cleaning costs.

By drawing up a detailed pipeline layout diagram, you will be able to save significantly on reducing the gap from the plumbing to the riser.

The clearance of the pipes should increase with the connection of each subsequent device. There should be no points in the wiring, and the pipes should be laid with an inclination towards the riser or septic tank. On all floors there should be a tee-revision in the riser, which will allow clearing blockages that occur from time to time.

It is not always possible to connect a country cottage to the village sewer system. But fortunately now there are various septic tanks for installation within your own estate. You can always install one of the options yourself and connect pipes from your home plumbing to it. Just how to make a sewer system in a private house so that it serves correctly and efficiently for many years. There are few rules for the design and installation of such autonomous drainage systems, but they all must be followed.

A modern sewer system in a private house is a complex of sewerage equipment, communications and engineering equipment - pipelines, cesspools, septic tanks.

The main function of the sewer system is to collect wastewater from the place where it appears into one network and transport it to the disposal facility.

If the sewerage system is designed correctly, takes into account all the requirements of SNIP and operates it correctly, then it will become the key to comfort and coziness in a private home or.

And vice versa - a neglectful attitude towards sewerage construction can lead to mistakes, which, in turn, will cause dire consequences -.

If the layout of the sewer networks is broken or drawn up incorrectly, this will necessarily lead to the saturation of groundwater with fecal components, and well (well) water will be unsuitable for drinking.

And the saddest thing that can happen is when large volume sewage may flood the building, and this means that the foundation, walls and basement anything can happen. Not to mention the smell that accompanies all these troubles.

A sewerage project for a home should be drawn up based on data from a specific area. Therefore, it is important to follow some recommendations that are common to all projects. The sewerage system in a private house must be based on “three pillars”. This:

1. External sewerage.
2. Sewage tank.

General principles and rules of construction

An autonomous sewer system is built and operates in the same way as a city network. The wastewater generated in the house must be collected in one pipeline and discharged into a septic tank or into.

Then the dirty water is purified several times and discharged into the soil. Or it is spent on economic purposes. Based on this, it is not difficult to understand that the home sewage system is very simple.

From each water consumer (faucet, mixer, shower) you need to lay pipes that are connected to a common riser.

The general sewer drains wastewater into a septic tank, which serves to purify the water.

Any sewer consists of two parts:

1. The internal network consists of a plastic pipeline and plumbing fixtures.
2. External network - the same pipeline, filter collectors and septic tank ( cesspool), which is located on the site outside the house.

What does a sewerage system diagram consist of, and how can you create it yourself for a private home?

You can develop a simple sewerage scheme yourself - knowledge is enough for this building regulations and SNiP. More complex systems sewers require the participation of professionals, because even a small miscalculation will cause large and serious problems.

A standard simplified sewerage scheme includes one common riser, a pipeline through the sewerage elements, external pipeline and a reservoir.

How to plan and draw up a diagram correctly?

1. IN one-story house the kitchen and bathroom should be located nearby, and as close as possible to the place where the sewage drains to the street.
2. IN two-story house the toilet must be on each floor, so rooms with high humidity It’s better to place them on top of each other to make it easier to connect all the pipes to a common riser.
3. The layout of the internal sewerage system should have as few connections, junctions and joints as possible.

When building a two- or three-story cottage with several bathrooms, toilets, a swimming pool, a jacuzzi and other amenities of civilization, you need to use more complex circuit sewerage.

It may be necessary to install several septic tanks, several common sewer risers, and even pumping station. Therefore, for such complex work it is necessary to hire specialists.

Competent calculation of the scheme, simplicity and reliability of the sewer system, taking into account all the details - all this can only be done by a professional.

Before developing a project, you need to pay attention to the following points:

1. How - through a central water supply or from a well (well).
2. What plumbing fixtures and in what quantity will be installed in the house.
3. Where is it planned to build a septic tank (cesspool).
4. The climate in a given area is the amount of annual and monthly precipitation, seasonal temperature changes, and so on.
5. How will the septic tank be cleaned - independently or using sewer equipment. Organization of access roads to the septic tank.

If the sewerage and water supply diagram for the house is drawn up correctly and competently, then it should include the following points:

1. Sewage diagram of a private house indicating all the wiring, with the quantity and size of materials.
2. Layout of sewer pipes and risers.
3. Indicating turns in the sewer system.
4. Locations in external sewer networks.
5. Pump locations.

Internal networks

The construction and dimensions of the internal sewerage network in the house are determined by the size of the premises and relative position water consumers.

Using PVC pipes, all drainage objects must be connected to a common sewer riser.

The pipeline is connected either with special fittings or in a socket, without the use of fittings. Several Yet existing methods connecting pipes - by welding or gluing.

The assembled sewer must be attached to the walls of the house or to some load-bearing structures clamps or clips.

Also, the sewer pipe must be secured next to the tie-in into the common riser, and next to.

This ventilation method is excellent when laying several sewer risers. But it is not recommended to install more than five valves on the entire sewerage system.

The aeration valve cannot completely replace ventilation pipe , because the air movement through it passes only in one direction - into the sewerage system. Therefore, gas can accumulate in the room, and it must be removed outside.

Professional terms

Here are a few special, most common plumbing terms. If you know what this or that word means, it will be easier for you to navigate both when purchasing plumbing fixtures and when installing your own sewerage system in the house.

• The vacuum valve is designed to provide the sewage system with air when the system is discharged, which can sometimes occur inside it. The vacuum valve protects the premises from the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewage system.
• BA is an element of the riser of the sewerage system, which is located in the area above the pipe supply and has a connection with the external environment.
• Outlet - a pipe that connects sewer well, located at the end of the system, with a common sewer network in the area outside the building. The outlet pipe is installed at the very end of the sewerage system.
• The supply line is a pipe that connects all the plumbing to a common riser or to a drain pipe.
• Sewer network (sewer network) - a system of all sewerage devices and devices, pipes and shut-off valves.
• Boner – sewer pipes, installed vertically. The riser ensures the removal of sewage water.
• Discharge pipe - drains sewage outside the premises.

Sewerage can be installed in the house different ways. But the main thing is to choose the right sewerage system for your home, for your individual needs.

A cozy country house is the dream of every city dweller, which can be overshadowed by the lack of practical, functional communications. And indeed, private houses are classified as residential buildings, and modern man I'm used to living in comfort. You perceive resources such as electricity and water supply not as a luxury, but as natural needs, which are quite normal and even natural to have in your private home. Needless to say how important normal sewerage is in it.

Purpose and choice of sewerage

Wastewater disposal has a specific universal name - sewerage. It can be centralized, that is, connected via pipes to central sewer networks (usually in a city), or autonomous.

The need for an autonomous sewer system is very strongly felt outside the city or in the private sector, consisting of individual houses and buildings. These can be not only residential, but also public, industrial buildings, whose activities involve wastewater disposal.

As one of the most important utility systems, sewerage can be divided into two main parts:

In order to correctly and rationally choose the type of sewerage system for your private home, and not make mistakes, be guided by the following parameters:

• Number of consumers (residents) in the house;
• The volume of water consumption per person, taking into account all plumbing fixtures in the house;
• Dimensions of the adjacent plot;
• Soil properties;
• Degree of groundwater occurrence;
• Features of the climate.

More details all current rules sewerage arrangements are described in SNiP 2.04.03-85. “Sewerage. External networks and structures.”

Types of autonomous sewerage for a private house

There are different ways to arrange drainage in a private home. Each of the methods listed below has its own advantages and disadvantages, weighing which it is usually not difficult to make your optimal choice.

• cesspool- the most ancient and simplest method of waste disposal, which not long ago had no analogues at all. The primitive design of such a sewer system is a shallow pit with unreinforced walls and without any bottom protection. After it is filled, the hole is covered with earth, and a new one is made in another place. The construction of a cesspool is more or less practical with a very small volume of wastewater, not exceeding 1 m3. Modern version the cesspool is arranged with reinforced concrete or brickwork its inner part, and a gravel cushion (20 - 30 cm) for soil post-treatment of wastewater. The principle and scheme of operation are very simple: water from the drains, falling to the bottom of the pit, seeps through the gravel base, fecal dense masses accumulate in the pit, and are periodically pumped out by sewer trucks. The addition of aerobic bacteria, which also help fight unpleasant odors, speeds up the wastewater processing process. The cesspool is designed for a small number of plumbing fixtures, and in modern country houses practically nothing is done. Main disadvantages: low permeability, the bottom of the pit should be located at a distance of a meter from groundwater;

Photo: cesspool made of concrete rings without a bottom

Important!
Construction of a cesspool, regulated by SNiP rules. To prevent contamination of soil and groundwater, its location must be at least:

• 3 m from the fence;
• 5 m from a residential building;
• 10 m from the garden;
• 20 - 50 m from a source of drinking water.



• Storage container or tank– ready and inexpensive option Such containers are widely available on the market today in HDPE plastic. You can also equip it yourself, using concrete rings and metal tanks. Principle and scheme of operation: wastewater flows into the container through connected pipes by gravity. Specialized plastic sewer tanks are reinforced over the entire area with stiffening ribs, which also make them as stable as possible during installation. Their body is quite durable. They are equipped with an inspection hatch for pumping out wastewater, which should be insulated for the winter. The deepening of such tanks does not require wastewater control, and does not require any special preparation. The only drawback is that the container needs to be emptied frequently.



Important!
The location of such a tank on the site of a private house must be foreseen in advance, since it must be convenient for subsequent cleaning using a sewer truck.

• Septic tank– autonomous sewer device, providing for wastewater treatment. There are single- and multi-chamber septic tanks, with passive or compulsory process cleaning. The simplest is a single-chamber septic tank. In essence, this is the same cesspool, the bottom of which is strewn with a sand and gravel cushion. You can make it yourself from a large container, reinforced concrete rings, or by strengthening the pit with brickwork. The walls of such a septic tank are carefully waterproofed to avoid soil contamination. Disadvantage: low permeability of wastewater, periodic replacement of silted sand and gravel bed.

Photo: single-chamber septic tank with sand and gravel bed

A two-chamber septic tank is a more advanced design, but its design is simple. It provides several compartments: a settling tank and a filtration well. Such a septic tank is made from ready-made HDPE or fiberglass, providing technologically advanced water seals that allow wastewater to flow in only one direction. There are also inspection hatches and additional chambers for preserving oxygen with vents. This is done so that natural aerobic bacteria can be used in the first chamber of this septic tank, helping the cleaning process and eliminating unpleasant odors. Oxygen is required for them, since this process is accompanied by fermentation and decomposition into the elementary components of the main waste biomass.


Photo: diagram of a two-chamber septic tank

This simple structure is often made with your own hands, monolithic or prefabricated from reinforced concrete rings. Its internal part is reliably waterproofed. The material is relatively comfortable, but extremely durable with sufficient waterproofing measures. A monolithic septic tank can be made quite spacious. Its production is more labor-intensive than prefabricated concrete, since to pour concrete it is necessary to install formwork and a connecting reinforcing cage that strengthens the structural elements. The pouring process itself involves filling, compacting and subsequent drying of the resulting structure. Such work should be done only during the warm season. Made concrete septic tank They are assembled from separate concrete rings, welding them together “in mortgages”, and coating the joints with mortar and bitumen. The resulting well is divided into two halves by a partition in which a small pipe outlet or blocker is placed. Plastic two-chamber septic tanks sometimes provide soil post-treatment in the form of an additional chamber with water diffusers into the soil through pipes. The output of a two-chamber septic tank produces purified water for technical needs. The septic tank itself requires periodic cleaning of flotation cake and sludge accumulations using a sewer truck.


Photo: monolithic concrete septic tank

A septic tank with biofiltration is a structure of several separate or interconnected chambers, the filtration process in which occurs in a passive mode. Operating principle: multi-stage filtration using various bacteria. The best solution the first stage of purification will use anaerobic bacteria, which do not need oxygen. In the inner part of its last chamber, saturated with oxygen from the aeration tank, a biofilter is placed. It consists of a lattice with a colony of aerobic bacteria placed on it, and a backfill made of expanded clay or granular polymer. In this chamber they are created ideal conditions for the life of bacteria. The water here is purified up to 95%, which makes it quite suitable for technical needs.

Photo: diagram of a septic tank with biofiltration

Three- and four-chamber septic tanks are the most advanced in this moment septic tank designs for private homes. They are produced by manufacturing companies specialized equipment for autonomous closed-type sewers. This means that they do not need any soil purification. Such devices are so advanced that the usual rules of retreat from residential buildings, penetration into the soil, control of groundwater and climatic changes do not apply to them. All chambers are united by one durable plastic housing and connected by blocking pipes, the cleaning process is controlled by an electronic sensor system, and the movement of wastewater through its internal part is ensured by one or two powerful pumps that can easily cope with volley discharges of water. To provide life support for aerobic bacteria, oxygen is also forced into the septic tank chambers. This septic tank needs to be cleaned once every 3-6 months (depending on the volume of wastewater). And it’s not even difficult to do it yourself without the help of specialists. All you need for it to work is small pit slightly larger than the septic tank itself, pipes and electricity supply. They are also called deep stations biological treatment Wastewater. The only drawback is that it is not a cheap pleasure. However, wastewater treatment with such systems is possible up to 98%!

Photo: diagram of an autonomous sewer system for a private house

When deciding to properly install sewerage in your private home, you need to pay attention to the following features:

• Before starting all work, it is necessary to make a project of the entire sewer system, which will display its entire diagram, pipes with all elements, a septic tank, as well as calculations for its permeability;
• Pipes external sewerage It is best to insulate it so that the water in it does not freeze in frosty weather. Recommended pipe diameter is 100-110 mm, minimum angle slope of gravity sewer - 5 o;
• Connections of sewer pipes must be reliable and sealed, any leaks are excluded.

Arrangement of a private house autonomous sewerage– very important and not so much hard work. Guided by the rules of SNiPs and SanPinas, you can assemble it yourself, equip it reliably and correctly, providing yourself and your loved ones with exceptional comfort for many years.