How to perforate a pipe for a drainage trench. Drainage system technology. How to clear a blockage in a drain pipe

The drainage pipe is the main component of the drainage system, which in turn is a structure designed to collect and drain filtered rain, melt and groundwater. Rain and melt water cause unwanted groundwater rise, increasing the destructive impact on building foundations and landscape design elements.

The use of drainage pipes effectively protects the house from damage associated

with high humidity, mold and frost formation, prevents flooding

cellars, the formation of puddles and spring ice on footpaths, prevents rotting of garden plants due to excess moisture in summer cottages and garden plots.

Drainage pipes are corrugated perforated pipes with stiffeners and a large number of rational small holes located in the wave cavity (corrugations). The stiffening ribs make it possible to evenly distribute the soil pressure along the entire length of the pipe and perceive additional loads that arise. These pipes are designed for laying to a depth of 0.7 to 6 meters. The stiffening ribs make it possible to evenly distribute pressure throughout the pipe and absorb additional loads that arise. Drainage pipes are designed for laying to a depth of 6 meters. The presence of a large number of small holes of a special profile per linear meter of the product contributes to a faster collection, passage and removal of excess water from the drained area.

The presence of a large number of optimally located small holes of a special profile along the entire length of the pipe contributes to a faster collection, passage and removal of excess water from the site. Due to its low weight - (a coil 50 meters long and with an optimal diameter of 110 mm weighs only 25 kg.) - installation and transportation are carried out without special

Also, one of the advantages of these pipes is their high corrosion resistance in aggressive groundwater. The service life of a drainage system made of polymers, with proper operation, is 50 years or more.

Efficient drainage prevents groundwater from rising too high at the base of the house, protecting the building from damage caused by moisture, mold and frost. If it is required that the drainage work in the cold season, it should be laid at a depth exceeding the freezing depth of the soil. Specialists

believe that drainage is almost always necessary for central Russia.

Drainage flexible corrugated pipes made of polyethylene with a filter are used for

the creation of melioration systems (drainage), to protect buildings or sites from excessive

moisture, seasonal rise of groundwater. Drainage is an extensive system

of interconnected pipes located around or into the system, water flowing down the ground enters.

Each pipe (specialists call it a drain) has a network of holes (perforation) on its walls. They are at the same distance from each other. Drainage can be laid both before and after waterproofing the foundation and basement, but strictly before the general backfilling of the outer side

foundation. The water collected through pipes enters the collector (transport network), and then into the water intake well or into the water intake (river, stream, ravine). Sometimes water from a water intake well is pumped out by a pump into the nearest ditch, ditch or sewer well. As a result of well-executed drainage, the level of groundwater decreases, fertility improves, drained soil is easier to prepare for sowing, and such land also accepts fertilizers better.

DRAINAGE- this is a system of underground channels, called drains, through which groundwater is drained from building structures and its level is lowered, as well as land is drained for the cultivation of agricultural products. Water from the drainage network is discharged outside the drained area into the water intake. Thus, a drain is an artificial watercourse in the soil for collecting and draining groundwater (usually underground). Drainage systems are used in agriculture, forestry, landscaping and construction projects.

Where are RUVINIL drainage systems used? ?

Construction

The foundation of any building structures, even at a shallow depth of 1.5-2 m, is exposed to groundwater. The composition of groundwater includes components that have destructive properties. Even waterproofing does not protect in this situation. A high level of groundwater leads to the destruction of building foundations, flooding of basements, the appearance of fungal formations, etc. When constructing roads, sidewalks and open flat areas, it is also necessary to take into account the characteristics and degree of soil moisture.

Land reclamation and agriculture

A high level of groundwater leads to rotting and freezing of fruit trees, the occurrence of fungal diseases of plants and waterlogging of the area. If it is necessary to drain swamps and waterlogged areas, it is effective to use polyethylene corrugated pipes, which provide a quick and cheap laying of the drainage system. The drainage system, mounted even on flat areas with the help of a drainage pipe, removes the backwater of groundwater and significantly reduces their level.

Classification of soil types

crushed stone soil	sandy soil	Clay soil	Mixed soil (loamy type)
Can be used drainage pipe perforated without filter material.	used drainage pipe with a filter made of non-woven fabric - geofabric; it is also necessary to make a backfill of crushed stone around the pipe.

Can the owner of the site lay the drainage system himself?

Laying drainage is not difficult if you have auxiliary tools (shovel, water level and rope). The pipes are very light - so a coil 50 meters long with a diameter of 110 mm weighs only about 25 kg. Drainage work on the site is usually carried out in conjunction with activities for its development. To remove excess moisture from the soil, it is necessary to ensure the maximum flow of water to the drainage pipeline. The factor that determines the access of water to pipes is the permeability of the soil. Increasing water permeability is achieved by backfilling drainage pipelines with filtration materials such as crushed stone, pebbles, gravel, etc. The presence of a filter also helps to increase the volume of water collected by the system. To prevent the network from silting up, the speed of water flow in the pipe must be at least 0.2 meters per second. This speed is ensured by the corresponding minimum pipe laying slope - 1 centimeter per 2 meters of pipeline length. The main condition for effective drainage of the site is the creation of a guaranteed possibility of draining water by gravity into a street ditch, ravine, decorative or natural reservoir or well (tank), storm sewer, etc. When constructing drainage systems, wells are used, both made of reinforced concrete and polymeric materials, specially designed for these purposes, which can significantly reduce the amount of excavation work and save significant money.

Methods for laying drainage systems

There are two main approaches to the construction of drainage systems:

Surface method - it is based on the planning of the territory, including work on creating slopes from buildings, installing a drainage network with upland ditches to intercept water, pits and trenches;
Deep method - the removal of groundwater directly from the area of \u200b\u200blocation of structures using pipes for drainage and wells. In modern dacha and cottage plots, as a rule, a combined drainage method is practiced, which does not disturb the appearance of the territory and allows the use of soil over drainage systems for planting plants or arranging lawns.

Typical mistakes when laying drainage pipes

The most typical errors in the construction of the drainage system are:

The use of pipes that are not intended for laying in a certain type of soil (for example: a pipe without a filter was laid in loamy soils),

Drainage water supply is laid without filter coating;

The minimum slopes for the drainage device are not observed;

The trenches are not covered with filter soil;

For various reasons, timely removal of excess water from the collection well is not carried out.

To ensure the effective operation of the drainage system, the choice should be carefully made:

Pipe diameter. The choice of the internal diameter of the drainage pipes depends on the area to be drained. The larger the inner diameter of the pipe, the higher its throughput. Drainage with geotextile is usually used in sandy and mixed soils, and in coarse soils, a pipe without geotextile can be used.

Type of pipes (with geotextile, without geotextile). Drainage with geotextile is usually used in sandy and mixed soils, and in coarse soils, a pipe without geotextile can be used.

Depth of laying pipes;

Pipe angle.

For this you need:

Know the vertical layout of the site;

Determine the level of groundwater (this requires hydrogeological surveys to a depth of 3-4 meters);

Set the type of soil (see the table “Classification of soil types”).

Such an integrated approach to solving the problem of drainage gives a positive result in determining measures to protect the fertile soil layer and structures.

A layer of sand is poured into specially dug trenches, then a layer of rubble (at least 20 cm high). The width of the trench along the bottom is equal to the outer diameter of the pipeline plus 40 cm. In cross section, the trench can have a rectangular or trapezoidal outline. The bottom of the trench must be free of hard lumps, bricks, stones, etc. (which can push through the bottom wall of the pipe laid on top of them).

A drainage pipe is laid on top of the rubble layer. The upper part is covered with backfill - a layer of crushed stone (at least 20 cm), and then again with a layer of sand. The outer part of the soil is covered with turf. Layer Sequence
is significant because not crushed stone, but sand should be turned to water. A cushion of sand and gravel at the bottom of the trench acts as a filter-shock absorber and allows you to maintain a slope for gravity water flow. Backfilling with crushed stone and sand (blanket) is a filtering layer and protection of the drainage pipe from mechanical damage. The purpose of the filter is to pass water and prevent small soil particles from entering the drainage pipe. Otherwise, the drainage holes will quickly become clogged and the system will have to be cleaned.

In order to ensure normal operation, drainage pipes are laid to a frost-free depth (at least 80 cm).

The minimum slope of the drainage pipe towards the drainage well or natural watercourse according to building codes is:

3 mm per 1 linear meter in clay and loamy soils; (slope not less than 3 degrees)

5 mm per 1 linear meter - in sand.

Often in practice, for a good flow of water, a slope of 10 mm per 1 linear meter is made. m. At the same time, the water flow rate should not be high (no more than 1 meter per second).

To maintain drainage systems, it is necessary to install manholes in straight sections at least every 50 meters, as well as in places of turns, intersections and changes in the angles of inclination of drainage pipes.

The drainage network is discharged into an open reservoir through an outlet pipe with a grate valve, or into a storm sewer through an outlet pipe with a check valve.

In the conditions of garden and summer cottages, it is advisable to lay drainage around the house (at a distance of 0.5-1 m) and divert water into the nearest ditch, any natural reservoir or well. Depending on the dimensions of the site and the level of groundwater, it is possible to make additional drainage (for example, along the perimeter of the site).

In cross section, the trench may have a rectangular or trapezoidal shape. The bottom of the trench should not contain solid lumps, brick, stone, construction waste, which can push through the bottom wall of the pipe laid on them.

Couplings and tees are used for building and joining drainage pipes with each other.

The most common drainage system is laid in the form of a "herringbone", i.e., a network of the same drainage pipes-collectors is fed into a large drainage pipe-collector from both sides. Through a drainage pipe-collector, groundwater flows by gravity into a storm sewer or a roadside ditch. In the case when the places of water discharge are above the level of the site, a drainage well is required, from which water is removed using a pump.

The installation of the pipeline is carried out at an ambient temperature of up to minus 10 degrees.

Along with drainage work, it is advisable to carry out the installation of engineering networks, ranging from the equipment of septic tanks (for domestic sewage) and wells (wells) to the routing of electrical cables to the connection points of street lamps. As cable routes, you can use a double-walled corrugated pipe.

Maintenance and repair of drainage systems

Maintenance and timely repair of drainage pipelines greatly contribute to their efficient operation for the entire estimated life.

The operation of drainages is carried out by control and supervision services, whose task is to:

Periodic inspection of drainage devices;

Troubleshooting;

Systematic monitoring of the position of the groundwater level in the drained area in order to establish the effectiveness of the drainage;

Drainage water quality control;

Carrying out scheduled preventive and current repairs, liquidation of accidents.

Clogged filter holes.

All products of CJSC "RUVINIL" are certified

Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "extra" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washing out of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the territory, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer, it is impossible to walk through the summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article, we'll look at:

How to arrange water drainage on the site.
How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of the developer and the suburban homeowner

About the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems, you can write a separate book. Therefore, we will leave a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence outside the scope of this article, and concentrate on practice. But without the minimum theoretical knowledge, to take up the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewers is to throw money away.

The point is that even improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped with geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of the drainage is associated with a large amount of excavation work with the involvement of equipment.

Therefore, simply digging and shifting a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying is difficult and expensive. The site has already been inhabited, landscape design has been made, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire site around.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological survey data(which will help to find a water-resistant layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or swamping of the site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snowmelt and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

capillary water.
Ground water.
Verkhovodka.

Moreover, surface water, if it is not diverted in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground, turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be diverted by storm (rain) sewage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!

Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, leading water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief in the backyard. This will avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made with an independent drainage device:

Non-observance of the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on the "wrong" ground. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

The use of cheaper limestone rubble instead of granite, which is washed away with water over time.
Savings on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as the transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm sewer

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm sewers on the site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain meltwater that comes from a neighbor. Water must be diverted to a ditch. I thought about how to make a water outlet. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they will leave “extra” gratings, and I don’t need special aesthetics for storm water. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them along with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted by the need to saw asbestos-cement pipes on their own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users responded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes on their own, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for laying trays.

The result is the following pie:

Soil base in the form of a bed.
A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
Concrete about 7 cm.
Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget shower at the dacha. It took: 2 days to dig a trench, two more days to concrete and install the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track "overwintered" perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also of interest is the option of rain (storm) sewage of the portal user with the nickname yuri_by.

yury_by Member of FORUMHOUSE

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer to remove rainwater from the house. I want to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yuri_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter if water gets between the two layers.

Eventually yuri_by I decided to take a budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement of internal sewage. Although he had fears that the pipes, which did not have such rigidity as the "red ones", would break in the ground, practice showed that nothing happened to them.

yuri_by

If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the storm drain works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

Paint the manhole cover.

We make a tie-in into the well of a drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the route of 1 cm per 1 running meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or board.

We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the “right” sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not an easy summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the site or to drain and bring the site in order.

In order not to engage in various costly alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save the family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE member

Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. In my area, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain does not go into the ground. To divert the top water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are laid in it, tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with "unnecessary" pieces of slate in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "cover" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “heavy” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of 8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the country house stands for a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the very heat in summer. No one wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with the neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to put all the "unnecessary" water from the site.

A high level of groundwater can bring a lot of trouble not only to garden plantations, but, first of all, to the foundations of buildings. As a result, the house can give uneven shrinkage and, as a result, a violation of the geometry of walls, roofs, windows and doors. In addition, the constant moisture of the walls causes the formation of fungus, which can lead to a deterioration in the health of those living in the house.

If you know that on your site groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth, then you should take care of a drainage system that will drain excess water outside the site, keeping the foundation of the house intact, your health and the health of your loved ones, as well as plants in garden.

Making a drainage system on your own is not very difficult, you just need to know the technology for the production of work.

What is drainage?

The very concept of "drainage" means the removal of excess water in a natural or artificial way from the soil surface or from the ground. Drainage is used both in construction and in agricultural technology to drain storm or groundwater using a system of channels, drainage wells, wells, laid pipes and other devices.

Drainage must be done if:

the groundwater level has been raised on the site,

In the old days, when plastic materials were not produced, asbestos-cement, ceramic or steel pipes were used for the drainage system. To get a complete drainage system, it was necessary to manually drill holes in such pipes. Not only was such work not easy, the holes eventually became clogged with soil, which negated all the efforts spent on arranging the drainage system. Currently on sale there is a large selection of different pipes for drainage.

For the installation of a drainage pipe, it is better to purchase a corrugated plastic pipe, in which there are ready-made holes. So that the holes in the pipes are not clogged with soil or silted up, they can be wrapped with low-density geotextiles, which cost mere pennies.

Corrugated Drain Pipe

What are the advantages of plastic pipes:

First of all, plastic differs from all other materials in durability. The service life of such materials is estimated at 50 years or more.
Plastic pipes, regardless of the material (polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene, and others), can be easily processed with improvised tools that are in every home.
When installing a drainage system, plastic pipes can be laid to any depth.
The assembly of pipes is easy, thanks to their design features and the availability of a variety of connecting elements for sale.
And finally - plastic pipes are several times cheaper than metal or ceramic ones.

Drainage system device

The laying of drainage pipes begins with the preparation of a site plan and a project, which should indicate:

pipe locations,
length and depth of trenches,
installation of drainage or manholes,
a method of draining water into a storm sewer or other container for collecting water.

The project should indicate the level of groundwater occurrence, the level of soil freezing, the type of soil on the site. It is unlikely that anyone is able to do such a project on their own, therefore, in order for the drainage system to work flawlessly, you need to turn to specialists who will competently make all the calculations. And the technical work itself is quite within the power of the owner of the house.

Before laying plastic drainage pipes, a trench should be prepared according to the design dimensions. The trench is dug wider than the diameter of the pipe by 40-50 cm, if the depth of freezing of the soil is small and the worker can fit in such a trench.

With a large depth of soil freezing, it is more convenient to dig when the width of the trench allows you to turn around with a shovel. There are no exact instructions here, everyone digs a trench in the way that is more convenient for him. The main thing is that the slope from the house to the drainage wells or other place of water collection is observed.

The technology of laying drainage pipes involves laying several drainage layers of sand and gravel at the bottom of the trench. But first, geotextiles are lined on the bottom and walls of the trench, only after that is sand is added, then crushed stone. And already a perforated plastic pipe is laid on the crushed stone layer, which is poured in the reverse order - crushed stone, sand, geotextiles and previously selected soil. The use of geotextiles protects pipe openings from silting.

The slope when laying drainage pipes must be maintained within 3 degrees throughout the entire length of one branch of the drainage system.

In some cases, the drainage system is arranged according to the “herringbone” system - this is when more perforated pipes are connected to the main drainage pipe, similar to branches extending from the tree trunk.

Laying drainage pipes according to the herringbone principle

In addition to laying drainage pipes, it is necessary to arrange manholes that allow, if necessary, to clear blockages and monitor the water level in the drainage system.

Inspection wells should be located no further than 50 meters, and at the bends of the drainage system or a sharp change in the slope of the pipes, they must be arranged without fail.

All collected water - from the ground or rainwater, must be discharged either into a storm sewer or into a special reservoir, from where it can be used for irrigation or other technical needs on the farm.

If water is to be drained during the installation of drainage pipes into an open body of water (river, lake, pond) or into a storm drain, check valves must be installed at the ends of the drainage pipes.

Causes of malfunctioning drainage system

During the installation of the drainage system, the technology or sequence of work could be violated. For example, at first crushed stone was poured, and then sand was poured to the bottom of the trench, and as a result, the holes in the pipe could clog.

Or maybe the drainage filling was not done at all. Or the slope was broken when laying pipes, as a result of which water cannot drain by gravity into a drainage well or into a storm sewer.

When draining water into an open reservoir, check valves were not installed or for some other reason.

Even if you did everything right, and your drainage system is working flawlessly, you need to remember that any device needs periodic inspection and maintenance, which consists in measuring the water level in the manholes, cleaning the drainage system from accumulated debris and dirt. Inspections are recommended to be carried out 4 times a year, i.е. every season.

Laying a drainage pipe - how to do it yourself?
The drainage pipe acts as a drainage system and protects the foundation of the building from destruction. We will understand the device of this design, how to properly install

Drainage sewerage is a system of perforated pipes, called drains, functioning as one unit with the sewer system of the house and the septic tank.

At the same time, very often drainage sewers are made to drain effluents from the bath, because there are no large fractions here and such water, which has passed through a layer of crushed stone and sand, can be passed into the ground without worrying about the state of the environment.

Storm drainage can also be provided. It is necessary to divert rainwater from the soil surface. In this case, trenches will be laid around the house, equipped with water receivers coming from the drain.

How does a do-it-yourself drainage system work

Having understood what a sewage drainage system is, you should consider the features of its design.

There is nothing complicated here.

It is a perforated pipe laid in a trench on a drainage layer.

The role of the latter can be played by different materials - depending on the characteristics of the soil, the level of groundwater, as well as the degree of pollution of wastewater.

Gravel, sand and geotextiles are commonly used for drainage.

In combination, they provide additional wastewater treatment, prevent clogging of sewer pipes with silt.

Gravel, sand and geotextile

According to a similar principle, the drainage system of the site is equipped with one's own hands in cases where it is necessary to provide protection from an excessive rise in the level of groundwater and flooding of the site.

Also, such a system will be a good method of organizing storm sewers that drain water from downpipes, preventing flooding of the building foundation. The only difference here is the lack of drains.

Drainage system of the site without drains

In all of these cases, you should carefully consider the last moment - where the water will flow from the drainage pipes or trenches.

If the runoff from the house must be discharged exclusively into a septic tank or a filtration well, then groundwater and rainwater can flow not only into a special collector, but also, for example, into a pond, any other body of water.

It can be used to equip a birdbath.

Schemes of the drainage system of the site

How to make a drainage pipe from a sewer pipe

The drainage pipe for sewerage is a conventional perforated pipe.

You can buy it in any store.

But, if you have a PVC sewer pipe for arranging an external sewage system, then you can make a drainage pipe out of it, and with your own hands, because sewer and drainage pipes differ only in the presence of holes in their surface.

Drainage pipes for the site

There are two ways to implement this idea. The first is with a circular saw.

You will need to do the following in this case:

take DISC SAW. The disc must be equipped with carbide tips,
using this tool, make many cuts in the pipe, distributing them evenly over the entire surface of the product. Their length should be 10-20 cm. It is necessary to ensure that there are not too many cuts, because then the pipe will lose its strength,

Circular saw for cuts in plastic

The work will look like this:

Holes in the drain pipe with a drill

take a drill and make a large number of holes in the pipe,
it must be taken into account that the diameter of the hole must be less than the size of the crushed stone fractions used for arranging drainage. This will prevent clogging of the drain pipe. The optimal hole diameter is 5 mm. The distance between them should be a maximum of 10 cm.

Drainage pipe with holes

We looked at how to make a drainage pipe from a sewer. Which method to choose, you can decide based on the tool available.

How is sewage drainage done?

Thinking about how to make sewer drainage correctly, you should consider a step-by-step instruction that can clarify the situation and give an idea of the sequence and features of the work being done.

The drainage will be equipped as follows:

Drainage Installation Instructions

We dig a trench of the desired length and depth. It is recommended to observe its optimal depth of 1.2 meters. If the groundwater level in the area is not high, you can make a trench 1.5 meters deep. Be sure to take into account the slope - 1-2 cm per meter of pipe,
we fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand, carefully compact it, observing the slope. For such work, you need to choose sand with a grain size of 1.5-1 mm,
instead of sand, you can fill up a layer of gravel. The size of the fractions should be 20-40 mm,
we cover the trench with geotextiles necessary to prevent silting of the pipe. Its edges should go outside the trench,

Drainage installation and pipe laying

Backfilling with crushed stone and wrapping with geotextiles

This is a fairly common drainage system.

A trench of the required width is dug here, its depth will be 1-1.5 meters.

In the same way, the bottom is equipped with a sand cushion, only several drainage pipes are laid on it parallel to each other with a distance of 0.7-1 meters.

This is what the drainage filtration field looks like

Of course, you can do without geotextiles, but it is still recommended to use this material. It prevents silting of the drainage pipe, extends its service life by an average of 4-5 years.

Types of slope of the drainage system

It is also important to know that the slope of the sewer pipe will depend entirely on its diameter.

The standard diameter indicators are 110 mm, and the slope is 1-2 cm per meter of the product.

If the diameter of the drainage pipe for the sewer decreases, then the slope should increase.

There is a regularity here: the larger the diameter of the perforated pipe, the greater its throughput.

Drainage system and how to make a drainage pipe from a sewer
Drainage sewerage is a system of perforated pipes, called drains, functioning as one unit with the sewer system of the house and the septic tank. At the same time, very often drainage sewers are made to drain effluents from the bath, because there are no large fractions here and such water, which has passed through a layer of crushed stone and sand, can be passed into the ground without worrying about the state of the environment.

The use of drainage pipes effectively protects the house from damage associated

with high humidity, mold and frost formation, prevents flooding

cellars, the formation of puddles and spring ice on footpaths, prevents rotting of garden plants due to excess moisture in summer cottages and garden plots.

The presence of a large number of optimally located small holes of a special profile along the entire length of the pipe contributes to a faster collection, passage and removal of excess water from the site. Due to the low weight - (a coil 50 meters long and an optimal diameter of 110 mm weighs only 25 kg.) - installation and transportation are carried out without special

believe that drainage is almost always necessary for central Russia.

Drainage flexible corrugated pipes made of polyethylene with a filter are used for

the creation of melioration systems (drainage), to protect buildings or sites from excessive

moisture, seasonal rise of groundwater. Drainage is an extensive system

of interconnected pipes located around or into the system, water flowing down the ground enters.

Where are RUVINIL drainage systems used? ?

Construction

The foundation of any building structures, even at a shallow depth of 1.5–2 m, is exposed to groundwater. The composition of groundwater includes components that have destructive properties. Even waterproofing does not protect in this situation. A high level of groundwater leads to the destruction of building foundations, flooding of basements, the appearance of fungal formations, etc. When constructing roads, sidewalks and open flat areas, it is also necessary to take into account the characteristics and degree of soil moisture.

Land reclamation and agriculture

How to lay drainage pipes?
How to lay drainage pipes? – informational article

Modern drainage pipes are light in weight, affordable and easy to install, for their laying there is no need to use heavy equipment, and also to hire over qualified specialists, it is enough to follow the phased work and our recommendations, and the installation of drainage pipes is carried out in the following sequence:

trench preparation

A drainage (filtering) layer of fine crushed stone of a fraction (grain size) of 10-20 mm with a height of at least 15 cm is poured into an open trench.
The drainage layer is planned with a constant slope, at least 10-15 mm per 2 m of length. For control, you can use a water level and a cord or level fixed on a two-meter rail, at one end of which a boss is fixed that fixes the size of the slope. In this case, the design slope will be reached when the bubble is in the center of the level.

Pipe laying

Laying installation of drainage pipes starts from the upper mark to the downstream well (reservoir).

The pipeline is assembled from separate drains (perforated pipes) and fittings (adapters, bends, tees, plugs) and is laid on a planned drainage layer.

In the case of using ceramic and concrete pipes, the gaps in their joints (5-15 mm) should be used as water inlets, protecting them from flooding with turf laid down with grass, moss or other fibrous materials.

The connection of asbestos-cement pipes should be carried out on couplings with sealing rings.

The finished pipeline is sprinkled with a drainage (filtering) layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 10-20 mm, at least 20 cm high above the top of the pipe, without breaking the connections and without changing the created slope.

On top of the drainage layer, you can lay a layer of harvested turf with grass down. The trench is backfilled with permeable soil such as sand. to the surface of the earth, and a fertile layer of earth is laid on top.

Installation of drainage pipes:

drainage (filter layer) from crushed stone of fraction 10 - 20 mm, 20 mm thick,
drainage pipe,
permeable soil (sand) - 90 - 100 mm,
fertile layer of earth (sod) - 10 - 15 cm.

The appearance on the market of new products for drainage, such as corrugated perforated pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) with filters for various types of soil, has greatly simplified the work. Such pipes with stiffeners make it easy to install drainage pipes, they evenly distribute loads throughout the pipe, which makes their service life almost unlimited.

PVC drainage pipes are laid to a depth not exceeding the freezing level, in accordance with the depth of the existing foundation, installation of drainage pipes performed in the above sequence. Filters are used to protect the drainage system from silting. A pipe with a geotextile filter is designed for sandy and sandy loamy soils. A pipe with a coconut fiber filter is laid in peat bogs, clays and loams.

In addition to these materials, freshly cut brushwood without leaves and bunches of fascines connected from it, poles 6-10 cm thick, flaky (flat) stones, cobblestones, bricks can be used as drainage.

Drainage along the fence can be arranged in separate sections. A ditch 2.5-3 m long, 0.5 m wide is dug to a depth of 1-1.5 m and gradually filled with household, poorly disposed waste (broken glass, cans, construction debris, stones, etc.). After layer-by-layer compaction, the ditch filled to the lower level of the fertile layer is filled up. Then they dig another ditch into the joint. And so, over the course of a number of years, a drainage system is created.

How to install drainage pipes: step by step instructions
In order to properly install drainage pipes, it is necessary to correctly follow certain instructions and sequences. This material describes how to install drainage pipes yourself.

Making a drainage system on your own is not very difficult, you just need to know the technology for the production of work.

The very concept of "drainage" means the removal of excess water in a natural or artificial way from the soil surface or from the ground. Drainage is used both in construction and in agricultural technology to drain storm or groundwater using a system of channels, drainage wells, wells, laid pipes and other devices.

Drainage must be done if:

the groundwater level has been raised on the site;

a residential building with a basement is being built;
the relief of the site changes;
heavy soils on the site, which impede the natural drainage of storm and melt water.

What are the advantages of plastic pipes:

First of all, plastic differs from all other materials in durability. The service life of such materials is estimated at 50 years or more.
Plastic pipes, regardless of the material (polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene, and others), can be easily processed with improvised tools that are in every home.
When installing a drainage system, plastic pipes can be laid to any depth.
The assembly of pipes is easy, thanks to their design features and the availability of a variety of connecting elements for sale.
And finally - plastic pipes are several times cheaper than metal or ceramic ones.

Drainage system device

The laying of drainage pipes begins with the preparation of a site plan and a project, which should indicate:

places where pipes run;
length and depth of trenches;
arrangement of drainage or manholes;
a method of draining water into a storm sewer or other container for collecting water.

The project should indicate the level of groundwater occurrence, the level of soil freezing, the type of soil on the site. It is unlikely that anyone is able to do such a project on their own, therefore, in order for the drainage system to work flawlessly, you need to contact specialists who will competently make all the calculations. And the technical work itself is quite within the power of the owner of the house.

The slope when laying drainage pipes must be maintained within 3 degrees throughout the entire length of one branch of the drainage system.

In addition to laying drainage pipes, it is necessary to arrange manholes that allow, if necessary, to clear blockages and monitor the water level in the drainage system.

Inspection wells should be located no further than 50 meters, and at the bends of the drainage system or a sharp change in the slope of the pipes, they must be arranged without fail.

Causes of malfunctioning drainage system

Or maybe the drainage filling was not done at all. Or the slope was broken when laying pipes, as a result of which water cannot drain by gravity into a drainage well or into a storm sewer.

When draining water into an open reservoir, check valves were not installed or for some other reason.

Therefore, in order to know how to properly lay a drainage pipe, you need to take an interest in the technology for the production of such work. There are plenty of examples on the Internet - both articles and videos.

Drainage is an engineering system designed to collect and remove excess water from the surface of the earth and deeper layers of the soil. It consists of channels, gutters, perforated pipes, inspection and collector wells, wells.

Laying drains is a necessary part of the construction work in areas with a high level of groundwater, a large amount of seasonal precipitation, and on swampy lowlands. The article highlights the main steps and rules for installing drainage pipes that will help the developer effectively drain the site and the area around the house.

Drainage system for removing water from the house

Purpose of drainage pipes

Increased soil moisture adversely affects building structures, especially the foundations of buildings. Under the influence of water and temperature fluctuations, the base quickly collapses, cracks appear on the basement and walls. Flooding of the garden plot can cause the death of plants, damage to household structures.

To reduce the impact of floods, precipitation or groundwater, site owners lay drainage pipes with their own hands. Timely drainage eliminates the cause of winter frost heaving, as a result of which foundations, blind areas and paths are destroyed. In basements or cellars, air humidity decreases, mold spots disappear. The walls of underground structures do not freeze during the cold period.

Drainage of marshy soil in a personal plot leads to its earlier warming up. This favorably affects the growth of plants, the yield increases. Gardeners have noticed that crop pests and mosquitoes are getting smaller. Sites, paths and other elements of landscape design on dry, stable ground last longer.

Water drainage helps to preserve the elements of the improvement of the territory of the house

Drainage pipes are widely used in industrial and civil construction when draining pits, laying roads, and in land reclamation.

The principle of operation of the drainage system

Drainage - an extensive network of drains and wells on the surface of the earth or in its thickness. Water flows into gutters or is filtered from adjacent soil by perforated pipes surrounded by a layer of drainage material. The elements of the system are connected to prefabricated collectors, where moisture flows by gravity or is pumped.

In order for the liquid to rush into the wells, the pipes are laid with a slope. The water accumulated in the collection tanks is removed in different ways:

seeps into the soil;
moves, following the natural terrain, to the lowest point of the site or a reservoir;
is pumped out by a pump for irrigation;
is removed into the sewer or cesspool machine.

An extensive network of water conduits to remove excess moisture

In addition, to drain groundwater, downholes are drilled to a layer of drainage rocks or common gutters are arranged in several areas.

Types of drainage and design features

According to the nature of water collection, surface and deep drainage systems are distinguished. In the case when the soil is poorly permeable, and the groundwater is deeper than 3 m, the first type of drainage is used. In lowlands, with a high occurrence of moisture in an area with clayey rocks or in the vicinity of a reservoir, both options are used at once.

Surface drainage

Designed to collect perched water from the territory adjacent to the house - rain or melt water. The liquid flowing from the roof, blind areas and paths enters the equipped grooves or wells, does not moisten the soil layers adjacent to the foundation.

Surface drainage of the site

Surface drainage is arranged in the form of:

linear system - a network of shallow channels laid along the walls of the building along the perimeter, closed from above with gratings or without them;
point drainage - open or closed drainage collectors located near drains, basement walls, retaining walls, terraces.

Surface drainage is performed from pipes, trays, sand traps, storm water inlets, superstructures and plugs. Concrete and metal structures were replaced by light and durable plastic profiles. They are laid in grooves with a slope on a prepared base, protected with gratings.

Deep drainage systems

With the help of deep drainage, low-lying areas are drained with groundwater coming to the surface, clayey, loamy soils, peat bogs, sapropels, and also areas adjacent to the reservoir that are prone to waterlogging. The underground drainage system is more complex and time-consuming, sometimes it is performed in several levels.

Deep drainage device

In low-rise construction, underground dewatering systems are most often used:

horizontal - drainage pipes are laid with a slope in trenches, connected to drainage wells and covered with earth from above;
vertical - they drill lowering wells or dig wells 20-50 m deep, from which water goes into the lower permeable layer or is pumped out by a pump;
combined - combine horizontal pipe laying and water drainage through vertical water-absorbing structures.

Depending on soil conditions, topography and tasks, various constructive forms of drainage are used:

ring - to protect a group of buildings on sandy soils;
wall-mounted - to remove moisture from the foundation of the building at a high groundwater level on clay soil;
reservoir - for the withdrawal of interstratal waters into a bowl under the base of the structure, filled with drainage materials.

When arranging surface and deep drainage, it is desirable to provide for the natural flow of liquid into wells or boreholes. If this cannot be achieved, drainage pumps are used to pump wastewater to the desired point.

Technical requirements for the placement of the drainage system

Engineering systems for water drainage are designed in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 2.06.15-85, 2.06.03-85. The standards regulate the location of drains, water receivers, connecting nodes, manholes.

Placement of system elements in accordance with building codes:

Drainage collectors - at the lowest points of the site;
Drainage wells - at the turns of the channels and every 20 m.
The minimum pipe slope is 2 cm per 1 meter in clay soils, 3 cm in sandy soils.

Important! Most often in low-rise construction, water conduits with a diameter of 110-160 mm are used.

Diagram of the drainage system of the house

To ensure that the work on draining the site does not lead to the opposite results, it is necessary to determine:

depth of the drainage pipe;
optimal drain slope;
number and location of wells;
method of removing water - into a gutter, pond, sewer, sewer truck or for irrigation.

Pipelines for surface drainage are laid to a depth of 1 meter. They are located along paths, playgrounds, drains. Storm water cannot be combined with underground drainage. In the event of heavy prolonged rains or snowmelt, the system may not be able to withstand the multiple increase in liquid volume. When the common channel overflows, water flows back into the drainage. This causes waterlogging and erosion of the deep layers of the soil. As a result, the strengthening of the forces of frost heaving in winter, the destruction of the blind area, damage to the foundation.

The result of soil heaving

For the device of underground wall drainage, the following is calculated:

Laying depth. So that the water in the lumen of the pipe, turning into ice, does not break the walls, the channels are laid below the freezing point of the soil. Its coordinates are determined according to SP 131.13330.2012 or a table on the Internet. The height of the crushed stone pillow of 40 cm is added to the value.
Laying the base of the foundation. If the base is a shallow tape, the laying depth is taken according to the calculation from paragraph No. 1. In other cases, the drainage is located below the level of the structure by 30-50 cm.

After calculating the parameters of the drainage system and making a detailed drawing, the consumption of basic materials is determined - pipes, fittings, wells, geotextiles, crushed stone for backfilling.

Drain pipe selection options

For drainage of territories, drains from various materials are used:

ceramics;
metal;
asbestos cement;
concrete;
chrysotile cement;
polymers - polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC.

The most popular in private construction are plastic products. They are durable, lightweight and corrosion resistant. You can install drainage pipes yourself. With proper maintenance, profiles can last up to 50 years.

Various types of drainage pipes

When choosing pipes, the main criteria are:

ring stiffness class - the higher it is, the deeper the product can be laid;
the volume of the discharged liquid - the flow must pass freely;
the presence of a filter cover - if it is absent, protection against silting must be performed during installation yourself.

Polymeric drainage is produced in the form of single-layer and double-layer perforated pipes. They differ in features and price. The latter are 2-2.5 more expensive.

Single-layer are products made of HDPE low pressure polyethylene. Since they are not very rigid - class SN4, they are laid in trenches up to 2.5 m deep.

Double layer drains are much stronger. They are made of 2 layers of polyethylene - low HDPE and high pressure HDPE. Products are characterized by greater rigidity - SN6. Pipes can be buried up to 5-6 meters.

Covers made of geotextile or coconut fiber are used to prevent silting of holes. Filters allow water to pass through, but retain debris, particles of earth or sand.

Pipe with geotextile

An alternative option for a drainage device without a crushed stone cushion is the laying of a pipe with a filtration layer of expanded polystyrene. Products can be mounted in channels without backfilling with non-metallic materials. Their role is played by small polymer balls.

Flexible pipes are rolled into bays and sold by the footage, rigid pipes are produced in segments. Perforation on drains is located over the entire surface or on its part, it is a slotted hole for the penetration of water from the surrounding soil. Solid non-perforated products are used to divert collected water outside the site.

Perforation around the perimeter of the drainage pipe

The inner surface can be corrugated or smooth. In the first case, the pipe is flexible and easily rolled up into coils. When mounting the corner sections, the profile is bent without the use of docking elements.

Pipes with a smooth inner layer do not bend. They are harder - product class SN8 or SN16. They can be laid to a depth of 6 m. They are produced in lengths of 6-12 m with or without sockets. Additionally equipped with connecting parts.

Installation of the drainage system

To reduce the risk of ground, rain or flood water flooding, you need to know how to properly lay a drainage pipe in your area. This will require materials:

crushed stone, gravel, sand for pillows;
geotextiles for filtration of wastewater;
fittings for system assembly;
shovels, wheelbarrows and other equipment for work.

The technology of self-laying a drainage pipe includes:

Channel preparation. During the period with the least amount of precipitation, the route is marked using pegs and cords. They dig trenches of the required depth with hand tools or with the help of construction machines. Observe the slope towards the water collector at least 2 cm per 1 m. The walls must be vertical. Geotextiles are subsequently attached to them.
The device of widening the floor of the collectors in the places corresponding to the project. Their diameter should exceed the size of the channel by 20-30 cm.
Backfilling the bottom of the trench with sand in a layer of 15-20 cm.
Laying geotextiles and fixing panels on the walls of the pit.

Pipe installation with geotextile laying

Backfilling the track with crushed stone 30 cm thick. A recess is arranged along the axis.
Installation of a drainage pipe. They are joined with clamps, couplings, bends, tees, crosses. Sewer fittings of the appropriate diameter can be used.
Control of the deviation of the drain pipe with a stretched cord and building level.
Sprinkling the water conduit with crushed stone.
Laying overlapping geotextile sheets over the backfill.
Installation of revision wells is done in extensions, connection to the system - couplings, adapters.
Filling the cavity between the collector and the trench wall with crushed stone, expanded clay, foam. This will protect the revision from freezing.

The drainage pipe is led out into the gutter, pond, well. The trench must be covered with sand or buried. If the products already contain a shell of filtration material, they are laid on a crushed stone pad without a geotextile backing. Polypropylene profiles are connected by welding, glue can be used for PVC.

Common Mistakes

The device of the drainage system will not lead to the expected result if errors were made during the calculation and installation:

the slope towards the drainage wells is not maintained;
deepening of pipes is not enough;
too small a diameter of drains or a type of perforation that does not correspond to the type of soil is selected;
there is no crushed stone bedding, geotextiles are not laid;
the number of conduits is insufficient;
the drain well fills up too quickly.

Important! Inefficient operation of the drainage system can be the result of the use of low-quality materials, improper assembly of elements, clogging of the pipe.

Flooding of the site with groundwater

Rules for the maintenance of the drainage system

To prevent the pipe lumen from becoming clogged with deposits, the system is cleaned once every 3-4 years.

Ways to eliminate blockages:

flushing with a garden hose;
blowing with a compressed air compressor;
mechanical cleaning with a metal cable with a wide nozzle;
hydrodynamic impact on pollution using pneumatic equipment.

Flushing of pipes is carried out through revision wells on both sides. Installation of sand traps will significantly reduce the ingress of insoluble particles into the channels. Special services are invited to clean deep-lying tracks.

Cleaning the system from contaminants