Heating a frame house: choosing the best method. Heating a frame house - choosing a heating system Which stove to choose for heating a frame house

Comfortable and warm house, in which autumn slush and winter frosts are not scary - the dream of any country property owner. Therefore, heating issues never lose their relevance. However, most often you have to solve them yourself: if some blocks of townhouses are equipped with centralized systems or at least common boiler rooms for the whole house, then cottage villages and the participation of individual residential construction for the most part leave homeowners alone with the issues of choosing energy resources and designing heating systems.

It is good if gas has already been supplied to the site, or the possibility of its installation is foreseen in the near future. But what to do if “blue fuel” is not available to you for one reason or another? It is also possible to take advantage of the benefits of civilization in this case, because in addition to gas, there are other types of energy resources.

First of all, of course, solid fuel. Moreover, both its “traditional” options - firewood, coal, coke and so on, and modern technological “consumables”: pellets, peat briquettes and many other highly efficient varieties of combustible materials. And it is worth noting, although we are talking about the simplest principle of combustion, today solid fuel heating systems are not only fireplaces and stoves, but also quite modern water heating boilers, unpretentious in maintenance, with advanced functionality and requiring loading a new batch of fuel once a day, and even at large intervals. There are even “combined” models that can operate on both solid fuel and gas, which makes it possible in the future to transfer the system to another type of energy carrier without changing the boiler itself.

The opposite of the above are boilers that run on liquid energy. Today, this is most often diesel fuel (also known as diesel fuel), but there are also models that “digest” petroleum products that are rarer in modern realities, such as fuel oil and even used motor oil. Otherwise, the principle of their operation is similar to solid fuel.

These two options heating systems differ in one common advantage: independence from centralized energy networks. Planned and not so planned outages of gas and electricity are, alas, not uncommon in Russian conditions, where the deterioration of communications is aggravated by a specific mentality. And the opportunity not to be afraid of the next construction and installation team digging a trench under the sign “Caution, gas pipeline!” or a neighbor who decided to connect the house to gas in the midst of January frosts - huge advantage for any owner of a country house.

At the same time, this advantage easily turns into a disadvantage: if centralized networks are centralized so that the problem of regular fuel supply does not bother the owner of the house, then autonomous boilers- is a completely different matter. Here you need to find a supplier, plan expenses, and have some “emergency supply” of fuel at home in case of unforeseen circumstances. And it’s good if we’re talking about solid fuel: it doesn’t need special storage conditions. But a tank with diesel fuel in a house or on a site will require completely different measures. And is it worth saying that, despite all the advantages, the need to independently load fuel into the boiler and control its level begins to tire of even the most patient homeowners over time?

An alternative in this case would be electric heating systems. In their case, the advantages are obvious: there is no energy carrier as such at all (of course, in the house itself - power plants still need it), accordingly, the problem of fuel delivery is eliminated. As a rule, electrical systems are more compact and do not require extensive measures for installing the heating elements themselves, and the absence of smoke and exhaust gases makes it possible to avoid additional ventilation and exhaust air from the room in which the device is located. In addition, electrical systems require virtually no maintenance, and the functionality of most models includes the ability to adjust and configure various parameters.

However, as obvious as the advantages are, the disadvantages are just as noticeable. Electrical systems are directly dependent on electrical networks. And this means problems with a possible blackout, and the need to modify the energy network at home if the use of an electric boiler was not included in the project, and, what can we say, the cost of electricity. To what extent do these disadvantages reduce the advantages? electrical systems? This is exactly what we will talk about today.

First of all, what are electric heating systems?

Unlike gas boilers and heaters using liquid and solid fuels, it is possible here to indirect heating (classic version, when the boiler heats up the coolant circulating through the heating system), and direct, at which heating device affects directly the premises or structures of the house.

The most obvious example of indirect heating remains electric boilers, the principle of operation of which is similar to gas, liquid and solid fuel heaters: a certain volume of liquid is heated in the tank, which then begins to circulate through a closed system, releasing the accumulated heat through batteries or other heat exchanger options. The only difference is that heating here occurs not due to the combustion process, but through transmission electric current through a conductor that converts energy into heat. In essence, such a boiler is just a large water heater, or, if you prefer, an electric kettle. The advantages of this solution are obvious: no combustion - no smoke and soot, which means there is no need for ventilation and regular cleaning and maintenance of the boiler. No fuel – no need to store it, deliver it or remove waste. Plus its small dimensions and weight, due to which there is no need to equip a separate boiler room - the device can be mounted on the wall of the house or even on the heating pipes themselves.

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A typical electric fan also belongs to electric heating systems.

An electric convector is often used as an auxiliary heating system.

Common house ventilation unit with air heating.

“At the junction” of the direct and indirect heating principles there are systems in which air acts as a coolant. If electric boilers can be compared to a large kettle, then this is a large fan that takes in cold air from outside the house and drives it through a heating element or a heater, and supplies already heated air to the premises of the house. Such a system, on the one hand, does not heat the house structure, but on the other, it allows you to get rid of heat exchangers. Without batteries, the air heats up much faster and, more importantly, more evenly. In addition, with the end of the heating season, such a system can be used as supply ventilation or air conditioner. But on the other hand, in this case, the high cost of the system itself is added to the cost of electricity, and installation turns out to be much more labor-intensive - after all, it is necessary to install air ducts into the rooms, cover them with thermal insulation material and hide them under the decoration of the rooms. Another, not so obvious requirement - mandatory installation air humidification systems, which are dried when heated and circulated.

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Infrared heated floor...

And its more traditional version.

Completely “direct” heating principles include options for electrical systems such as heated floors and infrared films. In this case, the coolant is absent as a fact - the room itself and the objects in it become one huge heater, and the problem of uneven heating will disappear by itself. Other advantages of such systems include the fact that, without direct contact with the atmosphere, they do not dry the air in the house, and the heating parts are hidden under the floor covering or, in the case of infrared film, also the walls and ceiling. The absence of radiators and protruding heating pipes gives more space for design ideas, yes and effective area premises increases.

It is worth noting that such heaters can be used not only as auxiliary systems, increasing the efficiency of the same gas boiler– warm floor and infrared film They may well become the main heating system of the house. But - only if the house has high-quality thermal insulation, since the effectiveness of such systems directly depends on the quality of the insulation of walls and ceilings. Otherwise, such devices can claim the title of “systems of the future”: a relatively low price, ease of installation and the ability to install in those places where heating will work as efficiently as possible - these are extremely significant and sought-after advantages in suburban housing construction.

Moreover, what looks more promising in this regard is not traditional heated floors, in which heating occurs by passing current through a thermal cable, but infrared heaters. Their net effectiveness does not show clear advantage compared to traditional systems, but infrared heated floors have much greater efficiency - the process of converting energy into infrared radiation requires much less expenditure of this same energy.

And the price of electricity, alas, remains the main obstacle to the spread of appropriate heating systems. Let them themselves, as a rule, cost less than gas boilers And autonomous systems on liquid and solid fuels, in the future, due to higher (and constantly growing) electricity tariffs, the cost may be equal to or even exceed the costs of “traditional” heating options. So, is the savings indicated in the title possible?

As experience shows, yes. But here, more than anywhere else, you need to understand how these savings occur, where they can be achieved, and where the “won” ruble threatens in winter in a house that heats the street better than the interior.

Thermal insulation

The very first law of profit teaches us that income must exceed expenses. And the expression related to finance is absolutely true for the processes of heat and energy exchange inside a building. You can install an arbitrarily powerful boiler, additional heaters and heated floors, but in the absence of competent and effective thermal insulation, the money spent will literally be thrown away. Therefore, before designing and installing heating systems, it is worth accurately assessing and calculating heat losses. Invite energy audit specialists to work on the project or order a thermal imaging study of an already constructed building - and you will get an accurate picture of heat losses.

It is worth noting that although frame-panel and frame houses already, by virtue of their design, have highly effective thermal insulation, and the factory production of parts makes it possible to reduce the risk of cracks and drafts to a minimum, even they are not ideal in this regard. Additional measures for sealing seams and joints, installation of reflective thermal insulation on the upper and lower floors can increase the already high energy efficiency by new level, significantly reducing heating costs frame house.

Smart Design

IN country house- as, indeed, in a city apartment - there are rooms in which heating requirements are much lower than in living rooms. The need for a comfortable temperature in the bedroom, living room or kitchen does not raise any questions, because that’s where we spend most time. But heating, for example, a pantry is not only pointless, but even harmful if canned vegetables and other preparations are stored there. It is not necessary to heat the hallway, but it is justified if you want you and your guests to be greeted with warmth and a feeling of comfort, but installing heating on the stairs leading to the second floor is irrational, as it will be warm there due to natural convection.

Thus, to optimize heating costs, it is necessary to clearly design the system, which involves dividing the house into zones in which the presence of heaters is necessary, and zones where natural heat transfer can be done. And some rooms can be completely “cut off” from the system due to thermal insulation. But in no case should you go to extremes, for example, heating only the upper residential floors and leaving the first floor in natural conditions.

Automation

It is quite obvious that if saving is one of the most important goals, then it is worth using resources to the maximum. In terms of heating, this means that there is no point in heating a house if it is already warm. And it is better to shift the task of selecting and maintaining heater on/off cycles to the “shoulders” of electronics, that is, central boiler control systems, thermostats and thermostats. Of course, you can turn off the heating manually, but how can you figure it out? the right conditions? Let's say the house has warmed up to 26 degrees, and you are used to turning on the heating when the temperature drops to 20. But imagine that you were late at work, and no one was at home at that moment. The temperature has already dropped to 16-17 degrees. It seems that the difference in numbers is small... but the amount of energy required to heat the premises increases disproportionately, and can outweigh all the savings.

Real cost reduction is only possible if the heating system is controlled with the utmost care high accuracy, turning off when the maximum set temperature is reached and without wasting energy on heating already warm rooms, and turning on at the moment when reverse heating requires least cost energy.

In addition, automation of heaters allows you to set each room its own temperature regime. Constant 24 degrees in the bedroom, 26 in the living room and 22 in the kitchen will require much less cost than trying to warm all rooms above 30 degrees.

"Recycling"

Often, when it comes to optimizing costs, homeowners only consider total costs and the achieved result, ignoring losses arising in the process. So, few people think about how much energy literally flies down the chimney when ventilating a house.

In general, competent ventilation system in itself increases the efficiency of the house - much less heat is lost through it than simply with open windows. And yet, the “exhaust” air goes outside, taking with it the heat and energy expended on it. But this energy can still be used by equipping the ventilation system with a recuperator, in which the air entering the house is heated by the air exhausted outside.

A complex approach

With the right approach, electric heating systems can be used to heat a home with virtually no restrictions. However, due to their compactness and ease of installation, they are more often used as auxiliary systems. Configurations in which a gas boiler is adjacent to infrared heaters, and a fireplace is adjacent to electric convectors, are most often used to increase the reliability of the heating system. So, if one heat source is lost due to a planned outage, a network failure, or simply a delay in the supply of energy, a heater that does not depend on these factors comes into play, and the residents of the house wait in the warmth.

But at the same time, this property can also be used to save money. Two heat sources, one heating the floor and the other heating the air in the room, act much faster, and the overall energy costs are lower than with one heater operating at a higher power.

So, should you be afraid of heating your home with electricity? It’s definitely not worth it - if you follow the principles outlined above, it may turn out to be even more economical than other options. But it’s still not possible to recommend it to “everyone.” But not because of cost - all energy resources are becoming more expensive today: electricity, gas, and even firewood, and diesel fuel can already be called the most expensive option.

Electrical systems have purely technological limitations, which are sometimes very difficult to overcome. Electrical wiring, even in a frame house, can be easily modified so that its “safety margin” is ten times greater than the needs of the water heater. But the absence in the village of a three-phase line, which is required by electric boilers with a capacity of over 10 kilowatts, is already serious problem. And if during the heating season the voltage in the village network drops below 170 watts, you should not hope for uninterrupted operation of electrical appliances.

Of course, all these are not shortcomings of electric heating systems, but worn out or built according to outdated energy grid standards - alas, objective reality for our country. Therefore, before purchasing electric boilers or designing supply ventilation with electrically heated air, you should carefully study the network capabilities and equipment characteristics.

Many realized the advantage frame houses before stone and brick. The system of erecting walls (frames) during construction speaks about the conservation of heat in a frame house. The fact is that during construction, walls are laid between two skins thermal insulation material. In the future, such a scheme will create convenience for owners in winter period. But given the temperatures in our regions, it makes sense to think about insulating the house more reliably.

Every a private house Taking into account the climatic location, it requires heating during the cold period. Frame houses, in which the heating system is mainly water-based, are no exception. For heating equipment use boilers different types: electric, gas, solid or liquid fuel.

is developed by the developer at the design stage of the structure. Heat energy is released by transferring heat through coolants - pipe systems that are laid throughout the house. Frame houses benefit in the sense that everyone heating pipes

, radiators can be hidden in the walls of the room, under the baseboards. For any type of heating system, the project provides a separate room - boiler room

. Equipment that generates heat energy carries risks of emergency and force majeure situations, therefore access to such devices should be limited to children and untrained people. Typically, in the range of heating systems there are many control tools that prevent fire or direct contact with current. But it's still better to be safe.

Boiler room and requirements for it A separate room for the boiler is not a complete solution to the problem. Frame houses, as everyone knows, are built from walls that cannot withstand high temperatures . To install the boiler, you need to do the following in the room: additional masonry at least one brick, and equip the boiler itself at a distance from the wall, taking into account calculations. Residents of Western countries install safer heating systems when building houses - air . Thus, the heating of a frame house occurs due to the operation of a heater into which cold air enters. Once in the heating unit, the heated air exits through the upper blinds. This type of heating device consists of diesel or, air filtration systems and air handling units.

Air heating

The process is that cold air from the street, entering the heat exchanger, changes its temperature and, after filtering, enters the coolants - pipes or radiators. In turn, from them, warm air falls into special gratings located at floor level. All components and components of this equipment hidden in the underground. The safety of the heating device is that everything contact points are closed, the heater works only 1-2 hours a day, taking into account the air temperature in the room. The only drawback is the high cost of such a device.

Warm floor for a frame house

It is also possible to heat a frame house by installing a “ heated floors" Heating a frame house using underfloor heating is becoming increasingly common. The reason lies in cost savings when purchasing and installing equipment and a high heat transfer coefficient from the floor. Wiring of thin metal-plastic pipes It takes up little space in the room, installation is allowed without preliminary screeding with cement. It is enough to lay any solid insulating building material over the structure of the heated floor system, and you can lay tiles, parquet or other covering to your liking.

– the question is relevant. Insufficient thickness of walls and roofs on cold days takes up a lot of heat energy. Taking into account the installation of heating systems, it is important to insulate the house and install good windows.

Video review - Economical heating of a frame house

Statistics on heating costs for some houses, which the owners kindly shared.

Comparing different houses and costs, it is worth taking into account the design features, the amount of insulation, the type of heating source and current tariffs, and most importantly, the mode of operation of the house. For example, for some a comfortable temperature is 19-20 degrees when heating with gas, and for others it is 25 when electric heating and the city tariff, which, of course, affects costs.

1. Frame house on USHP in Beloostrov ~130m2

The house was built in 2014-2015, the insulation of the walls is 200 mm, the roof is 200 mm (the second floor is attic), the flat part of the ceiling is, it seems, 300 mm. The height of the shelves is 2.7 m.

Heating: diesel boiler 24 kW, water heated floors (USHP on the first floor and heated floors on the second floor);
Home operating mode: Permanent residence, 25-27 degrees at the bottom, 20-22 at the top;
Average check for heating in winter: 4000-5000 rubles per month;
Average diesel consumption: 100-150 liters per month (DHW also from the boiler).

2. Single-stay frame 9*13 on USHP ~110 m2

The house was built in 2013-2014, wall insulation 200mm, top floor 300-400mm (ecowool), ceilings 3 m.

Heating: gas boiler 24 kW, main gas and only VTP/USHP;
Home operating mode: Permanent residence, ~22 degrees;
Average check for heating in winter: ~1500 rubles per month;
Average gas consumption:~250 m3/month, at the time of publication 1m3=5.97 rub.

During the winter of 2017-2018, approximately 700-750 m3 of gas was burned, about 200 m3 in December, 300 m3 in January and 250 m3 in February, the readings are not written off from the meter every time. It is also worth noting that the operating mode of the gas boiler (and the choice of its power) in this house could be not the most optimal, maybe there are still ways to optimize.

At the same time, there are additional costs for electricity, on which everything runs. Appliances, kitchen appliances, lighting, etc. day/night figures in kW/h:

  • January 2018: 220\154;
  • December 2017: 200\120;
  • November 2017: 282\190.

That is, another thousand and a half at a city tariff of 4.55 \ 2.62 rubles. (day\night) is spent on electricity - this is the total consumption according to the meter on the fence.

There are also some old statistics from January 2015, when the house was heated with electricity. Total consumption electricity for 8 weeks 3500 kWh: 2250 day, 1250 night.

2250*3.55 + 1250*2.14 = 10,662.5 rub. for two months (then there were different tariffs). The weather outside in the first month was -2-1-0+1+2+3+4, this is approximately the weather, freezing at night, dripping during the day. At home +21-22. In the second month it was down to -18, about 3 weeks of frost, a week of thaw (no warmer than +2).

During the warm month, consumption was 1500 kW/h, of which 500 at night, 1000 per day or 4,620 rubles.
During the cold month, consumption was 2000 kW/h, of which 650 at night, 1350 per day or 6,183 rubles.

Some information about this house.

3. Single-story frame 9*13 at SVF in Matoksa ~110m2

The house was built in 2015, insulation of walls was 150 mm, floors ( pile-screw foundation) and ceiling 200mm, ceilings 2.7 m.

Heating: electric convectors, 1 pc. 2 kW, 4 pcs. 1 kW each, 4 pcs. 1.5 kW each. IR floors in all rooms;
Home operating mode: seasonal, intermittently on weekends, temperature 20-21, in absence 8-10;
Average check for heating in winter: electricity ~4000 rubles/month, in January 2018 it was around 5000 (customers spent all the holidays at the dacha, the rest of the time they maintained +10), the electricity tariff for the day was 4.08 rubles, at night 2.08 rubles .

4. Frame house 9.5*9.5 at USHP in Kolpino ~160m2

The house was built in 2014, wall insulation 250mm, ceiling 400-500mm ecowool, ceiling height 2.7 m.

Heating: gas boiler, main gas. VTP on the 1st and 2nd floors;
Home operating mode: Permanent residence. temperature is approximately 24-25, the window in the bedroom is always open;
Average check for gas in winter: on average 300 m3/month. (about 2000 rubles), electricity approximately 500 kW/h (another 1500 rubles/month);

Tariff: 4.55 rubles per 1 kWh day, 2.62 at night. Gas 5.9 rub. for 1 m3. Thus, the monthly payment now for electricity and gas in winter is about 3.5 tr.
Before gas, the coldest month for electricity was 11 tr (the tariff was lower, but has increased since then).

There are some photographs of the house.

5. Frame house 8*12 at SVF in Olgino ~150m2

The house was built in 2015-2016, the insulation of the walls is 200 mm, the floor and roof are 250 mm, the ceilings are 2.7 m.

Heating: electric boiler 9 kW, VTP on both floors;
Home operating mode: Permanent residence, 2 adults and 3 children, dog and cat, +25 on the first floor, +22-23 on the second floor;
Average check for heating in winter: 9000-11500 rubles/month. (total electricity bill, including heating);

Minimum bill for electricity: 2600 rubles/month. (total electricity bill for July 2017). City tariff: day 4.55, night 2.62 rubles. for 1 kW/h.

Additionally, using the same electricity - a 100l boiler, PMM, washing machine, induction hob, kettle, well pump. Ventilation is not yet complete, periodic switching on exhaust fan, natural inflow + valves on the windows. Probably up to 9 thousand is spent purely on heating, based on minimal summer expenses.

Total electricity costs by month:

  • February 2018 - 11.6 thousand rubles. (monthly average t -8.3, short month);
  • January 2018 - 11 (monthly average -3.9);
  • December 2017 - 9.3 (monthly average -0.9);
  • November 2017 - 9.3 (monthly average 1.03);
  • October 2017 - 9.2;
  • September 2017 - 4.8;
  • August 2017 - 3.6;
  • July 2017 - 2.6;
  • June 2017 - 4.1;
  • May 2017 - 4.9;
  • April 2017 - 7.3;
  • March 2017 - 8.7;
  • February 2017 - 8;
  • January 2017 - 11.4 (monthly average -4.96).

6. Frame house 9.3*9.5 at USHP in Vsevolozhsk ~160m2

The house was built in 2015, wall insulation 200mm, ceiling 300mm, rafters 250mm, ceiling height 3 m below and 2.7 m above.

Heating: water heated floor (USHP at the bottom and VTP in gypsum plasterboard/gypsum plasterboard at the top), electric boiler 9 kW (limited to 6 kW in the settings);
Home operating mode: Permanent residence, ~23 degrees, maybe more;
Average check for heating: ~ 7500-8000 rubles per month (total electricity bill at a tariff of 2.94 day/1.49 night).

The statistics for this house are not very accurate; the owners do not really care about collecting data. Consumption from November 26 to December 28, 2017 is known, this is 2096 kWh day and 1006 kWh night. Then the readings were transmitted on March 23, 2018, the consumption for 3 months was 6712 kW/h day and 3149 kW/h night. It is also known that in the summer months, electricity costs are about 2,500 rubles per month.

While there are no other statistics, this note can be gradually updated and supplemented as new information is received from customers.

Most of the material is taken from a thread on the LittleOne forum, where there are some additional details and also statistics on other people's houses.

Canadian house construction technology is used in many countries around the world, including regions with quite harsh climates. Frame house with boiler room designed if it is intended to be residential all year round. Country frame cottages, as a rule, do not have such premises.

FEATURES OF A BOILER ROOM IN A FRAME HOUSE

When setting up a boiler room in frame houses, which will serve as the basis for heating all rooms, it is necessary to first think through some important nuances:

  • the boiler room must maintain optimal temperature conditions to ensure proper functioning of heating equipment and its durability;
  • It is better to purchase the boiler and the necessary accompanying parts before starting the design of the boiler room - this will allow taking into account all the requirements of the equipment manufacturer for its placement;
  • the room must be provided with ventilation and technological openings for installing a chimney and laying heating pipes;
  • It is better for the boiler room to be located on the blind side of the frame house. If this is not possible, the walls must first be sealed;
  • The area and height of the boiler room ceilings are regulated by special requirements, depending on the type of boiler and its manufacturer.

Considering that a boiler can greatly heat the surrounding space, and the walls of a frame house are susceptible to fire, it is important to ensure their safety. In particular, it is appropriate to protect the wooden structures of the boiler room, as well as the place where the boiler will be installed brickwork, it can be additionally plastered and painted. For heating equipment that will not be in a suspended position, but in a standing position, it is necessary to organize a brick podium. Tiled cladding is appropriate for its finishing.

REQUIREMENTS FOR THE BOILER ROOM

Depending on what kind of boiler you plan to equip frame house with a boiler room, various requirements are imposed on its arrangement.

Gas boiler room

If the total area of ​​the premises to be heated exceeds 60 square meters. m, in frame house projects a boiler room with a volume of 15 cubic meters or more must be allocated. m. During construction, this room must be equipped with inlet openings and ventilation ducts. As inlet a special window will do external wall, the gap between the door and the floor, as well as full supply ventilation.

The boiler room in a frame house must be finished with non-flammable material that can serve as a barrier between fire and wooden structures walls, floor and ceiling for 40 minutes, and also have a window for emergency ventilation and fire door minimum 80 cm wide, opening outwards. In this case, the ceiling height should not be less than 2.2 m.

Solid fuel boiler room

The minimum area of ​​a solid fuel boiler room is 7 square meters. m. When building a house, it is necessary to provide a gas-tight chimney for the boiler, as well as a hole for cleaning the chimney and fresh ventilation. In addition, the floor in the boiler room, unlike the wooden floor of a frame house, must be made of non-combustible materials. In the section of the project dedicated to laying engineering communications, a boiler sewerage supply must be provided, cold water and hidden electrical wiring.

Electric boiler room

A frame house with a boiler room can be equipped with an electric boiler. In this case, there are no requirements for the boiler room other than high-quality electrical wiring. An electric boiler can be located in any room, including living rooms.

Pavel504!

Make a frame house with stove heating It is undoubtedly possible, and sometimes it is probably necessary. On this forum I remember at least one such example - Yuri from BY discussed the project of a frame guest house under construction. There, however, besides the stove there was also a brick internal partition and under the floor - concrete screed(both are the heat capacity of the house). Yuri - professional builder, and he probably did some kind of thermal calculation.

What, very roughly, is the difference, in terms of heating, of a modern frame house from a log hut (the traditional analogy with a Russian stove)? The frame, if you build according to the standards, is much better insulated, requires much less energy(firewood). But it is much lighter (in grams), it has almost no heat capacity of its own, unless it is added artificially. When you fire a stove in a hut, it heats up and - by radiation and convection - heats up the massive house, and then together they gradually cool down until the next heating. There is nothing to heat up in the frame walls except a thin interior lining. Methods for increasing the heat capacity of a frame - concrete slab bases, massive internal partitions, massive interior decoration. A Russian stove and fireplace will also certainly add a nice touch.

When I was figuring this out for myself, I made approximately the following calculations:

EXAMPLE. Consider a small frame house, like 6x9, one floor (one stove is unlikely to be used to heat much more). This turns out to be about 200 m2 of enclosing surfaces - two floors and walls. Let’s assume, for simplicity, that it is insulated on all sides with 150mm mineral wool. Let's add additional heat loss to windows, doors and ventilation, subtract additional insulation due to internal and exterior finishing, and let us accept without additional calculation, again for simplicity, that such a house requires 60 watts of heating power to maintain a temperature difference of one degree inside and outside. It turns out that in frosty temperatures of -40 (as we have here tonight) you need 3.6 kW of heating power (so that it is +20 inside), on an average Moscow winter day - about 1.5 kW. This is power, multiplying it by time, we get energy in kWh (or in cubic meters of firewood, taking into account its humidity and the efficiency of the stove).

Now let’s calculate what the heat capacity of the house should be so that in 12 hours (between fireboxes) it cools down by no more than 5 degrees (for example, or how much do you want?) on a frosty day, for example, at -30. In such frost, the house produces 3 kW, or 36 kW*h in 12 hours. This is how much energy will be given off by cooling by 5 degrees, approximately 6 tons of water, or approximately 30 tons of concrete (brick), or approximately 15 cubic meters of wood. This is how much heat-intensive materials you should have INSIDE THE INSULATION, including the stove and fireplace, so that the house between the fireboxes cools down by no more than 5 degrees. If you have that much, then there is no problem, all that remains is to correctly calculate the power of the furnace. And if not, then the house will cool down - and heat up too! - faster. You will have to heat more often with smaller piles of firewood, which you are unlikely to like)

Like that. This, of course, is a very rough calculation, and you can (should?) make it more precise for your specific case.

PS Personally, I decided for myself that heating a SMALL frame is cheaper, safer, and most importantly much more comfortable with electricity. Coming several times during the winter to sip on romance is one thing, but drowning every day is quite another. IMHO)

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