Proper attic ventilation. Effective attic ventilation - from theory to practice Ventilation in a private two-story house

In multi-storey residential buildings, which are built using various building materials, it is necessary to ensure constant ventilation of all rooms and premises. Such a need is especially urgent when using double-glazed windows in the house, which provide thermal insulation of rooms and good tightness.

The inflow and full outflow of air is necessary to ensure comfortable living conditions. Among other things, in this case, the conditions of sanitary-epidemiological and hygienic standards are met, because carbon dioxide and its derivatives, formed during life, are negative factors that contribute to the emergence of various bacteria.

What means can be used to ensure ventilation of the premises, and how should it be designed ventilation in two-story house ? This will be discussed in the article.

Ventilation in a private two-story house - Types of ventilation

Choosing a ventilation system carried out at the initial stages of designing a house, as well as at the expense of household or economic load on the premises. Important take into account the location rooms and the overall square footage of the house.

The following types of ventilation are used to achieve the objectives:

With the combined type, the air flow is realized naturally and when using mechanical devices. This method is the most common. However, in order to achieve stable ventilation in a private two-story house must be installed in the wall exhaust channels of various sizes. For kitchen area, shower room or boiler room, separate boxes must be used. With this method, air masses move naturally. You can also go to the central mine install fan, which will accelerate the outflow of air. The advantages of this method include the fact that unpleasant odors do not penetrate the house, as well as the low noise level during the operation of the fan. The disadvantage will be that it is necessary to install overflow gratings at the bottom of the doors.
Natural. It is not intended to use mechanical means to circulate air. The outflow and inflow is carried out due to the difference in air temperatures between the room and the street. This type is used everywhere, but has several disadvantages.
Forced pull. Such ventilation system of a two-story house combined with natural Air supply can be done with installation of special valves or in a natural way, and the removal of air from the premises occurs by force. To do this, in the bathroom or toilet are mounted exhaust fans forced type. The operation of such a system can be automated.
Supply. To implement this type of air exchange in bearing wall or window frames a special valve is installed, which performs forced air flow into the room. You can also use a supply fan to level the supply of cold air in winter, the system is structurally complicated by adding a heater. Among other things, you can use monoblock complexes that combine a heater, valve, filters and coolers. The equipment can be equipped with a timer, so each owner can set the required response period.
Forced supply and exhaust. The process of outflow and inflow of air masses is provided by using productive equipment. To features forced ventilation refers to the fact that it is local when supply equipment installed in the rooms where it is most needed. With a centralized scheme, one fan is used, located in the central shaft, to which all exhaust ducts are connected.

Ways to create forced or natural air movement a lot, so each owner independently chooses the most optimal way.

Natural ventilation of a two-story house

To create all the conditions under which uninterrupted operation of the system will be achieved, several requirements must be met, in this case natural ventilation of a two-story house will have good performance.

When designing ventilation ducts, vertical shafts are used. One side of the system is installed indoors, while the other is mounted just above the roof ridge. Air movement provided through traction, whose indicators depend on:

Temperature differences between room and street, i.e. at the exit and at the entrance to the mine.
Wind that can improve or degrade traction.
The geometric section of the channel and its height.
Thermal insulation characteristics of the mine channel.
From the spatial location of the mine (absence or presence of bends and turns).

On early stages house design architect chooses the type ventilation and its spatial location inside the building, and at the time of approval of the standard graphic plan the customer is provided ventilation in a two-story house scheme, which clearly shows all the features and nuances.

Do-it-yourself ventilation of a two-story house - Calculation of ventilation in the house

All operations for the calculation of air circulation systems are performed in order to determine the cross-sectional area canals and mines. For this, the position is used SP55.13330.2011., in which the standards for air exchange are fully and capaciously indicated.

Minimum system performance indicators should provide within an hour one shift the total volume of air in the room (relevant for rooms where people are regularly located).
From the bathrooms within an hour should be removed at least 25 cubic meters air. From the kitchen at least 60 cubic meters.

These are the main provisions of the rules. You can always find them online. These rules are publicly available. Especially scrupulously it is necessary to study them for those owners who will independently lay mines, exhaust ducts and install equipment so that ventilation functions stably and correctly do-it-yourself two-story house which directly affects comfort.

Ventilation system of a two-story house - Optimization of ventilation

When designing air circulation systems, care must be taken to install specialized equipment:

At the entrance to the mine ventilation, install an automatic valve, in which the humidity sensor will be located, which will ensure savings in the operation of the system. When the humidity in the room increases, the valve will open wider, which will improve draft.
All living quarters should locate valves equipped with sensors outside temperature. In this case, you can level the flow of cold air, which will maintain the necessary temperature balance.
For free air circulation overflow openings with an area of at least 200 sq.cm should be installed between the rooms.

Please note that the installation fan significantly reduces the throughput of the mine, so this solution is a short-term measure to ensure air circulation. Similar equipment is kitchen hood, since it works for a short time and its use cannot fully ensure the ventilation of the room.

Natural ventilation system in a private house - features and disadvantages

The natural ventilation system in a private house consists of vertical channels that start in a ventilated room and end above the roof ridge.

The movement of air up the channels occurs under the action of forces (traction) caused by the difference in air temperatures at the inlet and outlet of the channel. Warm indoor air is lighter than cold outdoor air.

The draft in the ventilation duct is also affected by the wind, which can either increase or decrease the draft. The traction force also depends on other factors: the height and section of the ventilation duct, the presence of turns and narrowings, the thermal insulation of the duct, etc.

Scheme of ventilation of premises in a multi-storey private house

By building regulations natural ventilation channel should provide normative air exchange at an outside air temperature of +5 about C , excluding wind effects.

In summer, when the air temperature in the street is higher than the specified one, the air exchange deteriorates. Air circulation through the channels of natural ventilation almost completely stops when the outside temperature is above +15 about C.

In winter, the colder it is outside, the stronger the draft and the higher. Heat loss in winter through the natural ventilation system, according to some estimates, can reach 40% of all heat loss at home.

In houses, natural ventilation ducts usually exit from the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler room and dressing rooms. Additional channels are arranged for ventilation of the basement or, for the device.

On the upper floors of a private house it is also often necessary to arrange additional natural ventilation ducts from living rooms in order to ensure the air exchange required by the standards.

In attic rooms natural ventilation, as a rule, cannot provide the required air exchange due to a lack of draft in ventilation ducts of low height.

Norms of natural ventilation

Russian building regulations SP 55.13330.2011 "Single-apartment residential houses", paragraph 8.4. require:

The minimum performance of the ventilation system at home in maintenance mode should be determined from the calculation at least one exchange of air volume per hour in premises with permanent residence of people.

From the kitchen in maintenance mode, at least 60 m 3 of air per hour should be removed, from the bath, lavatory - 25 m 3 of air per hour.

The air exchange rate in other rooms, as well as in all ventilated rooms in non-working mode, should be at least 0.2 room volume per hour.

A room with a permanent stay of people is a room in which the stay of people is provided for at least 2 hours continuously or 6 hours in total during the day.

For comparison, I will give the requirements for ventilation performance in apartment building, least:

The amount of air exchange specified in the standards must be provided for the design conditions: outdoor air temperature +5 about C, and the temperature of the indoor air of the room during the cold season, (for residential premises +22 about C) .

The intake of outdoor air into the premises should be provided through special supply devices in exterior walls or windows.

For apartments and premises, where at an outdoor temperature of +5 °C removal of the rated air flow is not ensured, mechanical exhaust ventilation should be provided.

Mechanical ventilation with partial use of natural ventilation systems for the supply or removal of air (mixed ventilation) should also be provided during periods of the year when microclimate parameters and air quality cannot be provided by natural ventilation.

For example, when the outside temperature is above +5 o C, the performance of natural ventilation ducts is reduced. In this case, it is allowed to increase air exchange in rooms with windows by opening windows, vents and transoms. In rooms without windows, mechanical forced exhaust ventilation should be provided.

The natural ventilation system in a private house works as follows

In old houses, apartments, fresh air from the street penetrates into living rooms through the gaps in wooden windows , then through the overflow holes in the doors(usually a gap between the edge of the door and the floor) reaches the kitchen and bathrooms and exits into the natural ventilation channel.

The main purpose of such ventilation is the removal of gas combustion products, moisture and odors from the kitchen and bathrooms. Living rooms in such a system are not sufficiently ventilated. In the rooms for ventilation it is necessary to open the windows.

In the case of using modern hermetic window structures in the house, for the inflow of fresh air, it is necessary to install special supply valves in the outer walls of the rooms or in the windows.

Often, supply valves are not made even in new houses. For air supply having to keep the window sashes open all the time, at best, by installing “micro-ventilation” fittings on the windows for this. (First we choose and pay money for airtight windows with several levels of seals to protect against cold, noise and dust, and then we keep them constantly ajar!? :-?)

It is also common to see airtight doors installed in the premises of a house, without a gap near the floor or other opening for air to pass through. Installing airtight doors blocks the natural circulation of air between the rooms of the house.

Many are not even aware of the need provide a constant supply of fresh air to the rooms and air circulation between the rooms. Having installed plastic windows and airtight doors, they live in stuffiness, with condensation and mold. And in the air of the premises, an increased concentration of deadly gases - and insidious.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation

All these open vents, ajar sashes, cracks in windows, valve holes in the outer walls and windows cause drafts, serve as a source of street dust, allergenic plant pollen, insects and street noise.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation in our homes is the lack of control and regulation of the amount of air supplied to and removed from the premises.

As a result, often stuffy in the house high humidity air, condensation on the windows and in other places, fungus and mold appear. Usually, this indicates that ventilation does not cope with its task - to remove pollution, pollution and excess moisture released into the air. The amount of air leaving through the ventilation is clearly not enough.

In other houses in winter, it is more often the other way around, the air is very dry with relative humidity less than 30% (comfortable humidity 40-60%). This indicates that too much air is escaping through the ventilation. The frosty dry air entering the house does not have time to be saturated with moisture and immediately goes into the ventilation duct. And heat goes with the air. We get indoor microclimate discomfort and heat loss.

In summer, the draft in the natural ventilation channel decreases, up to the complete cessation of air movement in the channel. In this case, the rooms are ventilated by opening the windows. Other rooms without windows, for example, a bathroom, a toilet, a dressing room, cannot be ventilated in this way. Such rooms that are left without ventilation in summer, humid air easily and quickly accumulates and then appears, smell, fungus and mold.

How to improve natural ventilation

The work of natural ventilation can be made more economical, if an automatic valve controlled by a humidity sensor is installed at the inlet to the ventilation duct. The degree of opening of the valve will depend on the humidity of the air in the room - the higher the humidity, the more the valve is open.

Installed in the rooms supply valves controlled by an outdoor temperature sensor. As the temperature decreases, the density of the air increases and the valve must be closed to prevent excess cold air from entering the room.

Automation of the valves will reduce heat loss with the air leaving through the ventilation by 20-30%, and the total heat loss of the house by 7-10%.

It should be understood that such local automation of the operation of each individual valve will not be able to fully eliminate the shortcomings of the natural ventilation system in the house. Installing automatic valves will only slightly improve ventilation, especially in winter.

It is possible, at a minimum, to install adjustable grilles and valves on the supply and exhaust ducts, and adjust them manually at least twice a year. For the winter period they cover, and with the onset of heat, the exhaust grilles and supply valves open completely.

Building regulations allow the air exchange rate in the non-working mode of the premises to be reduced to 0.2 room volume per hour, i.e. five times. There will always be rarely used rooms in the house. Especially on the upper floors of the house. In winter, be sure to close ventilation valves in rarely used rooms.

ventilator in outer wall provides forced air flow into the room. Fan power only 3 -7 Tue.

The ventilator has the following advantages over a supply valve:

The volume of air coming from the street is limited only by the fan power.
They create excess pressure in the room, due to which in houses and apartments with a poorly functioning channel exhaust ventilation air exchange increases, and also the suction of polluted air from neighboring rooms and the basement is excluded.
Reduce the dependence of natural ventilation on climatic factors.
Achievable deep air purification from dust, allergens and odors as a result of the use of more efficient filters with high aerodynamic resistance.
Provide the best.

Ventilators equipped with an electronic climate control system, air heating, special filters are often called breathers.

There are inexpensive electronic devices for home use that measure air humidity. Hang such a device on the wall and adjust the throughput of the ventilation channels, focusing on the readings of the device. Maintain optimal humidity in residential areas of 40-60%.

Check availability and dimensions ventilation holes to move air between rooms in the house. The area of the overflow opening for air outlet from the living room must be at least 200 cm 2. Usually leave a gap between the edge of the door and the floor in a room with a height of 2-3 cm.

Overflow opening for air inlet to the kitchen, bathroom or to another room equipped with a ventilation exhaust duct, should be at least 800 cm 2. Here it is better to install a ventilation grill at the bottom of the door or the inner wall of the room.

When moving from a room to a room with a ventilation duct, the air must pass through no more than two overflow openings (two doors).

Ventilation ducts that pass through an unheated room (attic) must be insulated. The rapid cooling of the air in the duct reduces the draft and leads to condensation from the exhaust air. The route of the natural ventilation channel should not have horizontal sections, which also reduce draft.

Fan in natural ventilation duct

To improve the operation of natural ventilation, kitchen hoods are installed, as well as electric fans at the inlet of ventilation ducts. Such fans are suitable only for short-term and intensive ventilation of premises during periods of significant release of moisture and pollution. The fans are very noisy, their performance, and hence the power consumption, exceeds the values \u200b\u200bnecessary for constant ventilation.

It should be noted that installing a fan in an existing natural ventilation duct reduces the clearance of the duct. The autorotation of the blades (rotation under the pressure of the incoming air of the blades of a non-working fan) further increases the aerodynamic resistance of the channel. As a result, setting fan significantly reduces the force of natural draft in the channel.

A similar situation is when the kitchen hood above the stove is connected to the only natural ventilation channel in the kitchen.

Filters, valves and a fan in the kitchen hood practically block the natural draft in the ventilation duct. A kitchen with the hood turned off remains without ventilation, which worsens the air exchange throughout the house.

To remedy the situation, in the air duct between the natural ventilation channel and the kitchen hood it is recommended to place a tee with a check valve on the side outlet. When the hood is not working check valve opens, allowing free passage of air from the kitchen to the ventilation duct.

When turning on the cooker hood thrown out into the street a large number of warm air for the sole purpose of removing odors and other contaminants that form above cooker.

To eliminate heat loss, it is recommended to install an umbrella over the stove, equipped with a fan, filters and odor absorbers for deep air purification. After filtering, the air purified from odors and pollution is sent back to the room. Such an umbrella is often called a filter hood with recirculation. It should be borne in mind that the savings from lower heating costs are somewhat leveled due to the need to periodically replace the filters in the hood.

Available for sale fans controlled by a humidity sensor. The fan turns on when a certain threshold of humidity in the room is reached and turns off when it decreases. All the above features of the operation of fans in the natural ventilation system are also preserved when working with a humidity sensor.

In any case, the operation of the fan only leads to an increase in draft in the ventilation duct and a decrease in humidity in the room. But he is not able to limit natural draft, preventing excessive dryness of the air and heat loss in winter.

In addition, in the natural ventilation system, several elements located in different parts of the house work in concert - supply valves, exhaust ducts, overflow grilles between rooms.

Turning on a fan in one of the channels often leads to a disruption in the operation of other elements of the system. For example, air inlets in a home often fail to let through the sudden increase in air required to run a fan. As a result, when the hood in the kitchen is turned on, the draft in the exhaust duct in the bathroom overturns - air from the street begins to enter the house through the exhaust duct in the bathroom.

Natural ventilation in a private house is a system:

simple and cheap to install;
does not have any mechanisms requiring an electric drive;
reliable, does not break;
very cheap to operate - the costs are associated only with the need to perform periodic inspections and cleaning of ventilation ducts;
does not make noise;
its efficiency is highly dependent on atmospheric conditions - most time ventilation is not working optimally;
has a limited ability to adjust its performance, only in the direction of reducing air exchange;
in winter, the operation of the natural ventilation system leads to significant heat losses;
in summer, the ventilation system does not work, ventilation of the premises is possible only through open windows, vents;
there is no possibility of preparing the air supplied to the room - filtering, heating or cooling, changing humidity;
does not provide the necessary comfort (air exchange) - which causes stuffiness, dampness (fungi, mold) and drafts, and also serves as a source of street dust (plant pollen) and insects, reduces the sound insulation of rooms.

Ventilation of the upper floors of a multi-storey private house

IN high-rise building, as in a large ventilation duct, there is a natural draft, under the influence of which air from the first floor rushes up the clearance of the stairs to the upper floors.

If no measures are taken, then on the upper floors of the house we will always have stuffiness and high humidity, and in the house there will be a temperature difference between floors.

There are two options for natural ventilation of the upper floors of the house.

Read:

Ventilation in a wooden house

Interestingly, traditional for Russia houses with walls made of logs or timber do not have special devices for ventilation. Ventilation of the premises in such houses occurs due to walls (“breathing walls”), ceilings and windows, as well as as a result of air moving through the chimney when the stove is fired.

In the designs of modern wooden house increasingly used various ways sealing - machine profiling of mating surfaces of logs and beams, sealants for interventional seams, vapor-tight and windproof films in ceilings, hermetic windows. The walls of the house are sheathed and insulated, treated with various poisonous compounds.

In the rooms of the house, as a rule, there are no stoves.

The ventilation system in such modern wooden houses just needed.

Ventilation of wardrobes and pantries

In the dressing room, pantry must be made ventilation. Without ventilation, the rooms will smell, humidity will increase, and even condensation, fungus and mold may appear on the walls.

The scheme of natural ventilation of these rooms should exclude the flow of air from the dressing room or pantry into the living rooms.

If the doors of these rooms open onto a corridor, a hall or a kitchen, then the rooms are ventilated in the same way as the living rooms in the house are ventilated. For the influx of fresh air from the street, a supply valve is placed in the window (if any) or in the wall. In the dressing room door, pantries leave a gap at the bottom, between the door and the floor, or make another hole for air to pass through, for example, in lower part doors insert a ventilation grille.

Fresh air enters the dressing room or pantry through the supply valve, then leaves through the hole in the door to the corridor, and then goes to the kitchen, to the exhaust duct of the natural ventilation of the house.

Between the dressing room or storage room and the room where there is a natural ventilation channel there should be more than two doors.

If the dressing room doors open into the living room, then the air movement for ventilation of the dressing room should be organized in the opposite direction - from the living room, through the hole in the door, into ventilation duct dressing room. In this variant the dressing room is equipped with a natural ventilation channel.

Ventilation in your city

Ventilation

Ventilation of a private house. Air flow in the house - video:

The purpose of ventilation is to improve the air quality in the home. There is a conflict between the need to improve air quality and minimize the cost of modern ventilation and reduce its energy consumption.

Meanwhile, ventilation is not the only way to improve indoor air quality. The most important is the control of sources of air pollution. We are talking about everyday habits, such as no smoking in the room, taking care that bacteria and fungi do not multiply in the apartment.

The quality of the air in the house clearly depends on whether materials with a low level of harmful emissions are used for construction. natural materials, such as wood, stone or glass, are considered primarily as such.

With a reasonable choice of materials at the construction stage, good quality home air can be maintained even if a less expensive and energy intensive ventilation system is installed.

What functions should the ventilation of the house take on?

Is ventilation really needed to give it so much great importance? A similar question can only arise about an amateur. The need for a permanent air exchange system can hardly be overestimated, both in terms of creating and maintaining the most comfortable microclimate for life and safe for the health of people, and in terms of ensuring long-term trouble-free operation of the entire building as a whole.

Humans need oxygen in the air to function properly. In the process of breathing, it is gradually replaced by carbon dioxide, and if there is no constant replenishment of fresh air, then the atmosphere in a closed room becomes heavy, suffocating, causing rapid fatigue, lethargy, restless sleep, or even more serious reactions in the form of shortness of breath, dizziness, seizures, etc., especially in people suffering from chronic diseases respiratory system and blood circulation.

Air stagnation is a mandatory increase in the concentration of pathogens and allergens contained in it in suspension.
There is no escape from the fact that human life is constantly accompanied by smells. This is sweat, and other quite normal excretions of the body, the aroma of which is not very pleasant, these are perfumes and cosmetics, these are means household chemicals and other sources. Let's add some bad habits, in particular, smoking, as well as odors from pets. If constant effective ventilation is not provided, very quickly the atmosphere in the living rooms will become unsuitable for a normal stay in them.

Houses with "amenities" on the street are practically a thing of the past. The comfort of living is associated with an equipped bathroom or at least a shower, warm toilet or shared bathroom. should be organized in such a way that the air, together with odors and steam from these rooms, does not penetrate into the residential area, but is immediately taken out.

The kitchen always requires special attention. This is due to the increased temperature in this room during cooking, and with combustion products, if a gas stove is used, and with a lot of smells, pleasant and not very, with greasy fumes and big amount water vapor. All this should be immediately removed from the house.

The air exhaled by humans and animals always contains a high concentration of water vapor. In addition, excessive humidity in the premises is facilitated by various Appliances- washing and dishwashers, irons, electric kettles, etc. Here you can add drying of washed clothes, carried out wet cleaning and other reasons. And high humidity, which has no way out due to lack or insufficient ventilation, is dampened walls, which become a favorite "springboard" for the development of various microflora - fungus, mold, moss, this is a decoration that quickly becomes wretched, it is foggy, and in severe frosts - windows covered with ice crust. Yes, and the resource of durability of waterlogged building structures from any material - is sharply reduced.

Unfortunately, not everything is going well with many materials that are widely used for decoration, insulation or for the manufacture of furniture. Many of them are capable of releasing substances that are very harmful to human health into the home atmosphere - formaldehyde, styrene and other toxic compounds. Ventilation helps to minimize the negative effect of such emissions.

If desired, this list can be continued. However, what has already been listed should be more than enough to understand the importance of well-equipped ventilation and imagine what a comfortable home can turn into in its absence.

When designing any buildings in our time, special attention is paid to ventilation issues. If, for one reason or another, the owner got a house that is not equipped with such a system, he will have to do this without delay. And at first, it will be easiest to organize natural ventilation, since it usually does not require excessive costs and large-scale alterations inside the premises.

The principle of operation of natural ventilation. Its advantages and disadvantages.

Under what conditions can natural ventilation be used?

Ventilation of premises can be organized according to various schemes, but all of them can be divided into two main groups.

1. First a large group, which, in turn, is divided into several varieties is forced ventilation, in which air flows are created due to one or another mechanical effect, provided by the operation of special fans. Such ventilation can be supply, exhaust, or created by combined scheme. Such schemes are very complex, they usually require a professional trip, but they allow you to control the quality of the air entering the premises and carry out its necessary post-treatment.

2. Second- This is the natural ventilation considered in our article, which does not involve the forced supply or extraction of air masses. All movement of flows is carried out exclusively due to natural forces obeying the laws of physics.

- Temperature difference - warm air always has a lower density and, therefore, mass, in comparison with colder air, and therefore tends to rise.

- Pressure drop: due to the height of the vertical ventilation ducts, a certain, although not so significant, pressure drop is created, which contributes to the movement of air.

- The effect of the wind.

The operation of natural ventilation does not accept the installation of any highly efficient filtering devices (except for gratings or nets that do not let through, for example, fallen leaves, large debris, insects, etc.). These devices will make it difficult or even impossible for the normal movement of air flows from the street to the premises, which will lead to the inoperability of the entire system of the system as a whole. Thus, it makes sense to restrict natural ventilation only in conditions of clean air in the construction area.

It is clear that the creation of natural ventilation in a house located near a busy highway, where the air is oversaturated with exhaust and dust, becomes an unsuccessful solution. For the same reasons, such a scheme is not applied if it is traditionally felt on the building site bad smell from nearby industrial enterprises, livestock complexes, treatment facilities and so on. Instead of improving the microclimate, the opposite effect will be obtained indoors.

A similar criterion for assessing the admissibility of natural ventilation can be attributed to the noise level (for example, not so far from the site there is a railway line or airport). It should be remembered that such a ventilation scheme always reduces the overall level of sound insulation of the house.

Comfortable living conditions imply the optimal combination of several parameters - air saturation with oxygen, its temperature and relative humidity. Practice shows that natural ventilation will maintain this balance only in the conditions of the so-called inertial house.

This concept includes the fact that the building was erected from materials capable of accumulating thermal energy - this includes brick, gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, ceramic blocks, cinder blocks, adobe walls. In this case, the house must have high-quality thermal insulation, made exclusively from the outside. Walls built of wood (log or timber) or adobe have a certain inertia.

It is in such conditions, when the walls are able to accumulate thermal potential, and then give it to the flow of incoming air, properly organized natural ventilation will work to improve the microclimate in the premises. Heated surfaces become a kind of recuperator, that is, they contribute to the rapid and high-quality heating of the incoming air.

Prices for ventilation systems

ventilation system

But in the so-called inertial-free houses, the picture is completely different. Constantly penetrating free air flows from the outside lead to unreasonably large heat losses, cool the house, and there is no need to talk about ensuring a normal balance of temperature and humidity. Such buildings include buildings erected according to frame technology, from, sandwich panels, polystyrene concrete, vacuum blocks and a number of other modern building materials. In such conditions, the only correct solution is the use of a well-thought-out forced ventilation system.

Natural ventilation is more suitable for buildings that are compact in plan, without long enfilades of rooms, outbuildings and outbuildings. Its creation becomes more complicated with the increase in levels - the floors being built (this will be discussed below). It is practically inapplicable “in its pure form” or very inefficient for ventilation of a residential attic, due to the characteristics of this room, a different scheme will have to be applied here.

So, before you start creating a natural ventilation system, you should evaluate the listed evaluation criteria, and only then make a decision.

The principle of operation of the natural ventilation system of a country house

So, let's now consider what is the fundamental device of natural ventilation of a private house, how it works.

For the functionality of such a scheme, a combination of supply and exhaust channels is required to ensure free, unhindered air movement between them.

Fresh air (shown by wide blue arrows) enters the premises through ajar windows or special intake ventilation valves (item 1). There, it heats up due to the action of heating devices, convection and heat transfer from structures accumulating thermal potential, displaces denser, carbon dioxide-saturated "exhaust" air, which moves (wide green arrows) to rooms in which exhaust vents are installed. For its free movement along the route, either gaps are provided between the floor surface and the door leaf, or through windows in the doors themselves (pos. 2).

Exhaust vents (pos. 3) are usually provided in the most "dirty" rooms that require maximum air exchange to remove odors, fumes or excess moisture. Here, the air flows of “exhaust” air (wide red arrows), picking up all these negative components, exit into the vents and move up the vertical ventilation ducts, due to the temperature and pressure differences already mentioned above.

These air ducts exit through the attic and roof and terminate in ventilation pipe heads above the roof surface (item 4). The placement of these pipes on the roof is also subject to certain rules, which will be discussed below.

So for effective work natural ventilation of the house as a whole, each of the rooms must be equipped with either an inlet duct (valve) or an outlet vent. A number of rooms suggest the presence of both a valve and an outlet.

Prices for air ducts

air ducts

When planning the location of supply valves and ventilation vents, the following rules are followed:

An inlet valve (or other way for clean air to enter) must be provided in any of the living quarters, whether it be a bedroom, living room, nursery, office, dining room, etc.
Ventilation ducts with vents are provided for:

- In the kitchens. It should be remembered that the presence of a kitchen hood above the stove does not exempt from the need to place a ventilation vent.

- In bathrooms, toilets or combined bathrooms, home baths.

- In a dedicated room for home laundry.

- In pantries, dryers, dressing rooms, if they go into the premises of the residential area. If they are separated by a door from the corridor or kitchen, then a supply valve is installed in them.

- In a home workshop, if work in it can be accompanied by the appearance of fumes, smoke, unpleasant odors(welding, soldering, painting, the use of chemicals for various purposes - adhesives, mastics, solvents, technical fluids, etc.)

A number of rooms require the placement of both a supply valve and a ventilation outlet:

- Premises in which gas heating equipment is installed.

- A room in the living area, if there are more than two doors between it and the nearest ventilation duct.

- A living space combined with a kitchen, that is, for example, a kitchen-dining room.

- Home sports or gyms.

A special approach is required to the premises of the second floor. The fact is that warm air from the ground floor necessarily rises, and an additional load is placed on the ventilation system. There are two options here:

— If the second floor is separated from staircase constantly closed door, then the approach to placing supply valves and exhaust vents remains almost the same. True, with a caveat - in the case when there are no "dirty" rooms on the second floor (kitchen, bathroom, toilet, etc.), the outlet can be located in the common hall (corridor), where all the rooms go.

- In the case when the second floor is not blocked by doors from the first, in each of the rooms, regardless of its purpose, both a fresh air intake channel and a ventilation outlet are provided.

In addition, the presence of a supply window and a ventilation outlet is mandatory for basement (basement) rooms and for space under wooden floors on the joists on the ground floor. But basement ventilation is already a separate topic for more thorough consideration, and in this publication it is “bracketed”.

Advantages and disadvantages of the natural ventilation system at home

So, for what advantages systems can be calculated if the scheme of natural ventilation of a country house is selected:

Such a ventilation system requires a minimum financial investment. Most of the work is quite accessible for independent implementation. True, if the house did not previously have exhaust ventilation ducts, this will have to be seriously worked on. Supply valves should not cause any particular difficulties in installation.
The system is reliable, primarily for the reason that its design does not involve complex mechanisms - by and large, there is simply nothing to fail.

Natural ventilation does not require complex care. In principle, it comes down only to a regular revision of the condition of the ventilation ducts and, if necessary, their cleaning.
Such a system is completely non-volatile and does not require additional operating costs.
The absence of mechanisms is also the absence of technological noise inherent in other types of ventilation of the forced principle of operation.

However, we do not forget about quite significant shortcomings natural ventilation:

In most cases, the supply channels do not have high-quality filters (they would interfere with natural circulation), which means that the incoming air carries pollution, dust, odors, pollen. Possible penetration of small insects.
Supply valves are a "gap" in the overall sound insulation of the house.
The system is very difficult to quantify the incoming air volumes.
Natural ventilation is extremely dependent on the time of year and even on the current and weather outside. In winter, when the temperature difference between inside and outside the house is large, ventilation works "to its fullest", which often causes energy overruns for heating needs. Reducing the intake of air from the outside (for example, by covering the supply valves) immediately gives increased humidity - with all the ensuing consequences.

In the summer heat, on the contrary, air circulation can slow down or even stop altogether. There is only one way out: at this time, use the cross-ventilation scheme, opening windows on both sides of the house - air movement will be carried out due to the pressure difference on the leeward and windward sides. But at the same time, from the "dirty" premises, it is quite likely that excess moisture and odors will flow into the residential area.

There are many ways in one way or another to optimize the work of natural circulation - we will talk about this later.

Video: the principle of operation of natural circulation and its seasonal features

How is the performance of a home's natural ventilation system calculated?

It is not enough to correctly determine the location of the supply valves and exhaust ventilation vents. The ventilation system must have a certain capacity to ensure optimal air exchange in all rooms of the house.

These requirements for air exchange volumes are established by the current building codes and regulations for all residential and special premises of the building. From them they begin to "dance" when making calculations. An extract from these regulations is given in the table below:

Room type	Minimum air exchange rates (multiplicity per hour or cubic meters per hour)
	INFLOW	HOOD
Code of Rules SP 55.13330.2011 to SNiP 31-02-2001 "Single-apartment residential buildings"
Residential premises with permanent residence of people	At least one volume exchange per hour	-
Kitchen	-	60 m³/hour
Bathroom, toilet	-	25 m³/hour
Other premises	Not less than 0.2 volume per hour
Code of rules SP 60.13330.2012 to SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning"
Minimum outdoor air consumption per person: living quarters with permanent residence of people, in conditions of natural ventilation:
With a total living area of more than 20 m² per person	30 m³/h, but at the same time not less than 0.35 of the total air exchange volume of the apartment per hour	-
With a total area of less than 20 m² per person	3 m³/hour for every 1 m² of room area	-
Code of Rules SP 54.13330.2011 to SNiP 31-01-2003 "Residential multi-apartment buildings"
Bedroom, nursery, living room	One volume exchange per hour	-
Cabinet, library	0.5 volume per hour	-
Linen, pantry, dressing room	-	0.2 volume per hour
Home gym, billiard room	80 m³/hour
Kitchen with electric stove	-	60 m³/hour
Premises with gas equipment
A room with a solid fuel boiler or stove	Single exchange + 100 m³/h for a gas stove
Home laundry, dryer, ironing	-	90 m³/hour
Shower, bath, toilet or shared bathroom	-	25 m³/hour
home sauna	-	10 m³/h per person

Premises with a permanent stay of people are understood in this case as those in which the residents stay for more than two hours. It is clear that in the conditions of an apartment it is necessary to include all living rooms here, with the possible exception of those that are not in use and are closed. In this case, for these residential premises, the air exchange rate is taken - 0.2 of the volume per hour.

The general calculation is usually carried out in this sequence.

A. They begin by determining the required volume of air intake into ventilated rooms equipped with supply valves.

If you look at the tables carefully, you can see that the regulatory documents offer several ways to calculate - from the total area of \u200b\u200bliving premises, from the volume of rooms (air exchange rate), and sometimes - from the number of people who are constantly in the room. So, it is worth trying to carry out calculations in several ways, and then choose the maximum from the resulting results.

Let's explain with an example:

Residential building with an area of 70 m², three family members live (more than 20 m² per person). In the bedroom with a total area of 16 square meters a permanent stay (more than 2 hours) of two people is assumed. If calculated by sanitary standards(SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning"), then the required air supply is at least 30 m³ / hour for each, that is, 60 m³ / hour.

Thus, from the two values obtained, we select the maximum - 60 m³ / h.

The same house, but already a children's room, with an area of 13 m³, where one person is constantly located. According to sanitary standards - 30 m³ / h, in terms of the volume of a single air exchange from the area of \u200b\u200bthe room - 39 m³ / h. That is, the value is taken exactly 39 m³.
Large living room (20 m²), where all family members gather and spend time together every day. Based on the norm of 30 m³ per person, this is 90 m³ / hour. If we count from the area (volume) of the room - 60 m³ / hour. The larger value is taken.
For a small office with an area of, for example, 11 m², the values will be approximately equal - 30 and 33 m³ / h.
A similar calculation is carried out for each of the rooms where air supply ducts will be provided. Then the maximum values \u200b\u200bare summed up - the result will show how much air is required to be let into a residential building. Suppose, in our example, the total volume of the required air exchange was 192 m³ / h.

To simplify the calculations of the required air intake, you can use the calculator below, which contains the main ratios in accordance with the current SNiP.

From the author: hello dear friends! It has long been known that a properly equipped ventilation system is the key to a comfortable and healthy life. After all, the microclimate is of great importance. That is why today we will talk about how ventilation is arranged in a two-story private house.

Strictly speaking, the layout of the system does not change much depending on the number of floors. The only difference is that when using forced ventilation, it is necessary to use more powerful equipment to two-storey cottage than for a single storey. This is due, first of all, to the volume of air available in the house.

In general, the methods are not too different. And certainly for a house of any number of storeys, it is necessary to approach the issue equally competently. Oddly enough, among some owners of suburban dwellings there is an opinion that private buildings do not at all need special organized system air exchange. Especially often such doubts arise if the house is built from "breathing" materials - for example, from wood.

But let's look at the big picture objectively. Think about it, because you are unlikely to leave the erected walls bare. They will most likely be placed with an insulating layer, and then with a finish, giving the building a beautiful and aesthetic appearance. All of these additions will definitely cut off access to fresh air, which otherwise could pass through the walls.

Even if you are going to build a house from a tree that does not require finishing, keep in mind that modern timber has completely different qualities than the wood that was used in the good old days. Now the material is impregnated with various compounds designed to protect it from harmful effects external environment. In addition, timber is often glued. All these substances tightly clog the pores, so there is simply no possibility for air exchange.

Also, do not forget about double-glazed windows, which are everywhere installed on windows. Previously, ordinary wooden frames with glasses. They had wonderful gaps in their design, through which fresh air successfully circulated in the direction of the house and back.

In general, there are a lot of arguments in favor of arranging a ventilation system. Let's finally start looking at how this can be organized.

Type of ventilation

First of all, it is worth understanding two types of air exchange. It can be natural or forced. Each option has certain advantages and disadvantages, so let's look at them in more detail.

Natural air exchange

Natural ventilation is called ventilation, which does not require the installation of any equipment designed to stimulate the movement of air. Simply put, air masses lead a completely independent life. To remove the exhaust air, ventilation shafts are provided - in other words, channels cut into the ceiling and wall that go to the roof.

The air that has been in the house becomes warm. As everyone knows from school physics lessons, in this case it starts to rise up. This is what they are designed for, the entrance to which is located in the upper part of the room. Air masses reach them naturally, and then follow the shaft up, leaving the pipe to the street.

With this, everything is clear. But as you know, the amount of air that has left the house must somehow be replenished. And here lies the problem. It has already been discussed in detail above that modern walls and double-glazed windows make the dwelling a real fortress, into which the enemy, perhaps, will penetrate, but fresh air will definitely not.

The problem can be solved in two ways:

ventilation. Everyone seems to know how this is done - if it becomes stuffy in the house, you need to open the window. In fact, when stuffiness sets in, your brain has already begun to get tired and experience oxygen starvation. This should not be allowed, since such situations often repeated can seriously harm health. For example, it is fraught with migraines - rather unpleasant conditions that are difficult to get rid of. So, in order not to bring yourself to oxygen starvation, you need to do airing not on the fact of the onset of stuffiness, but at a certain frequency - every three hours. The duration of the procedure is 15 minutes. The problem is that not every family has a person who will agree to stay at home all day long to periodically open the window. As a rule, most people work, so in the evenings they have to return to their dwelling with stale air;
use of an inlet valve. This simple equipment is an excellent alternative to ventilation. The supply valve is installed either in the window or in the wall. It consists, in fact, of an air duct, through which air masses circulate. The equipment is designed in such a way that its installation does not affect the occurrence of drafts or temperature changes in the home. Thus, there is no need to constantly open the window - freshness and oxygen flow continuously through the supply valve.

But even the use of a supply valve is not able to solve the main problem of natural ventilation. This is a low air exchange rate. The fact is that, regardless of the method of fresh air intake, it depends on some external factors. First of all, on the air temperature outside and inside the room.

To ensure at least a relatively normal air exchange rate, it is necessary that it be cold outside and hot in the house. The smaller the temperature difference, the slower the air exchange. But what then happens in the summer, when it is equally hot outside and indoors? Never mind. There is simply no air exchange, or it is, but at such a level that there is no sense.

In principle, natural ventilation can be more or less suitable for small houses - there is a small amount of air, the change of which does not take much time. But since today we are talking about two-story buildings, we immediately dismiss this option for the reasons described above.

Forced air exchange

But this method is the one that is suitable for consideration as an application in a private house of any number of storeys. In this case, the air circulation is affected by the use of special equipment, which is installed either in the shaft, or on the roof, or in one of the non-residential premises - for example, on the attic floor. There are also stand-alone devices, which will be discussed below.

Forced ventilation options

The arrangement of a forced air exchange system is a fairly broad topic, so it is necessary to consider it in as much detail as possible. You should start with the fact that this method is divided into three varieties: supply, exhaust and supply and exhaust ventilation.

Supply equipment

supply ventilation equipment Responsible for pumping fresh air into the house. At the same time, the spent waste comes out naturally through all the same exhaust shafts. This principle is based on the difference in density between cold and warm air.

The first, getting into the room, has a denser structure due to its temperature, it is heavier and is located first in the floor area. Due to these properties, it pushes out the already heated exhaust air masses. Those rise up and go out through the ventilation ducts.

Then the process is repeated. Cold air comes in, old air comes out. In general, natural ventilation works on the same principle. But forced is characterized by a high injection rate, due to which the intensity of air exchange increases dramatically.

For the equipment of such a system, there are two most popular types of devices:

supply valves. Yes, they have already been mentioned in a conversation about natural air exchange. But in this case, these devices also have a fan in their design, which is responsible for forcing air into the room. Despite this, the device is still quite simple. An air duct is laid inside the wall, into which the fan is installed. From the side of the room, the structure is closed with a lid, and outside the building - with a protective grill, the purpose of which is to create a barrier in the way of precipitation, debris, small rodents and various living creatures, which have absolutely nothing to do in a decent house. Installation of the supply valve is very simple: just drill the wall with a puncher, then clean the hole, place the air duct in it and assemble the entire structure;
breather. In fact, this is the same supply valve, but with extended functionality. There is also an air duct, a fan and protective grilles. But in the kit they also come with some “chips” that are responsible for the comfort of people living in the house. For example, these include temperature and humidity sensors, with which the equipment can automatically start when necessary. In addition, a small convector is built into many breathers, which heats the air entering the house in the current mode. Thus, the temperature level in the room does not change in any way - this is both comfortable and saves on heating resources.

Extraction equipment

Another option for arranging a forced ventilation system is the use of exhaust equipment. It is installed, as a rule, in places with an increased need for air removal. Of course, WC and kitchen area.

In the first case, the need is mainly due to high level humidity. If you do not fight it in any way, then over time it will lead to damage to the finishing materials, as well as to the formation of mold, which is directly harmful to health.

The kitchen also needs air removal for obvious reasons: this is grease, and high humidity, and not always pleasant smells. And sometimes it happens that the food is burnt, and you need to get rid of these flavors as quickly as possible.

For such cases, a kitchen hood is installed - equipment that is located above the stove and is connected to the ventilation shaft. A fan is located inside the device, which is responsible for the retraction and further removal of air masses along with odors and humidity.

In the bathroom and toilet, the role of exhaust equipment is also performed by a fan, which is installed at the inlet to the ventilation duct and is closed with a protective grille. It helps to quickly normalize the level of humidity in the room.

The disadvantage of the exhaust forced ventilation system is the same modest amount of incoming fresh air. This has already been discussed many times today, so we will not repeat ourselves. But the problem isn't going anywhere. Especially it concerns two-storey houses where the volume of air is quite large. He just won't be able to fill up. Therefore, for this case it is worth considering the third method of arranging the ventilation system.

Supply and exhaust equipment

From the name it is clear that the devices installed within the framework of such a system are responsible for both the supply and exhaust of air. Most often this is achieved by combining different devices. For example, breathers can be installed as a quality, and exhaust devices can be placed in the kitchen and bathroom.

This approach solves two problems at once. Firstly, the required intensity of air exchange is achieved. Secondly, you can fully control the volume of both incoming and outgoing air masses.

In addition, there are special double-acting devices - supply and exhaust. As a rule, they are equipped with recuperators. This element is designed to retain thermal energy from recycled air and release it to fresh air as it arrives.

Agree that such savings on heating in big house very handy. You will kill two birds with one stone: you will gain a healthy microclimate, and you will not disturb the temperature regime in the room.

Certainly, supply and exhaust ventilation costs much more than other systems. First, the equipment itself costs a lot. Secondly, all devices are connected to the mains and consume a certain amount of electricity during operation.

The latter factor, by the way, is the main disadvantage of forced ventilation, regardless of what type of ventilation is used. Dependence on electricity leads to the fact that in the event of a power outage, all equipment will simply stand up.

So it is recommended to be puzzled in advance by purchasing and installing a backup generator. It will be useful to you to maintain the performance of not only ventilation, but also heating system in case of force majeure.

As for the installation of equipment for forced ventilation, it is not so complicated. You can read about how to do the installation with your own hands in the articles on our website dedicated to this topic. Once you have the information you need, you'll be fine. Good luck!

Full use of the attic is impossible without proper and effective ventilation of this space.

An attic is a residential attic that needs air circulation, like any living space in a house, but to create ventilation for a house with an attic, you should know some of the nuances.

This room is located above the main living rooms home: bedroom, living room, kitchen, shower room. In the process of human life, heat and moisture are released into the surrounding air, which, according to the laws of convection, rises up to the ceiling. The main amount of moist air masses, the ventilation system of the house releases into the atmosphere, but some of it penetrates through the micro-slots in the ceiling and enters the residential attic.

In an attic that is not equipped with ventilation, moist air masses rise to the ceiling, penetrate through the finishing materials and the ceiling, and enter the insulation, and behind it into the under-roof space. Getting into a colder zone, the air saturated with water vapor turns into condensate, which settles on the roofing material, insulation and wooden structures, causing their corrosion and leading to their destruction.

Regardless of whether residential attic space or not, competent ventilation prevents from:

The appearance and accumulation of excess moisture in the under-roof space.
Wet insulation, which prevents the loss of thermal insulation qualities.
Formations of fungal colonies and mold foci on wooden elements roofs.
Corrosion formation on metal elements roofs.

Ventilation of the attic above the attic saves it from overheating in the hot season, and also prevents the formation of ice on roof overhangs in winter.

Features of proper air exchange

Natural ventilation in the residential attic space is carried out through supply and exhaust openings, the area of which depends on its area, in the ratio of 0.2 m 2 /100 m 2. The inflow can be carried out through valves installed in the attic windows. Humid air is removed through aerators mounted in the roof plane or in the roof ridge.

Observing the rule of the ratio of the area of supply and exhaust openings to the area of the attic space, the attic can be ventilated through the gables. Air is supplied through wall inlet valves installed in the lower part of the pediment, and the hood is carried out through adjustable ventilation grates mounted at the top of the opposite pediment.

Ventilation of the roof and under-roof space is most often done using soffits. This device is nothing more than a perforated panel made of metal or plastic, and designed for sheathing the overhangs of the eaves. They can be used by installing around the perimeter of the house, or alternating with non-perforated panels.

Soffits as ventilation elements can only be used if, during the installation of the roofing "pie", gaps were provided for the movement of air flows along the entire roof.

Ways to ventilate a residential attic

To date, there are several basic options for ventilation systems. Air circulation can be natural or forced. The natural movement of air masses occurs due to the difference in temperature, atmospheric and internal air. Forced movement is carried out with the help of fans, supply and (or) exhaust.

The simplest option is to use the natural inflow and exhaust of the air mixture from the attic floor. This type of air exchange is most often chosen by those who do the attic ventilation with their own hands.
With complex attic geometry, you can use the method of creating in its space overpressure with forced flow. Thanks to this solution, the supply air masses will displace exhausted ones through natural exhaust openings, aerators, etc.
With short exhaust ducts, they may not have sufficient draft to efficient removal air from the attic. That is why many developers equip hoods with fans. The influx of air masses, in this case, can also be carried out both with the natural movement of the air flow, and with forced.
The most complex ventilation system is the mechanically driven system. With this solution, powerful exhaust fans are used, which are mounted in the space above the attic. Air supply is carried out supply fans mounted in the openings of the gables.

In order for the created forced ventilation system not to create discomfort, you should know that the performance of the exhaust fans must be equal to the performance of the supply mechanisms.

Proper attic ventilation. Effective attic ventilation - from theory to practice Ventilation in a private two-story house - Types of ventilation