Working with artistic parquet: How to do it at home. Making parquet with your own hands: technique for making artistic parquet, advantages and disadvantages How to make piece parquet at home

Parquet is a durable and durable flooring option, which is why it is often preferred. The easiest way is to buy material in a store, but some craftsmen decide that making parquet with their own hands is not a waste of time, but an opportunity to get an environmentally friendly and high-quality coating.

Indeed, parquet can be made independently, but how expedient will these actions be? In order to understand this, you will have to look at examples of how this is done.

One of the Russian families in the early 2000s was able to get about 4 pallets of small bars of mahogany and oak. And at the same time they became the owners of an apartment that needed overhaul, since it had only bare walls and ceilings. The family decided to do all the finishing work on their own and came to the conclusion that they could make wood material parquet. The idea was crazy, but what do the difficulties mean for the hardworking and motivated?

Is it possible to make parquet with your own hands

As a base for parquet, they made M-300 sand concrete - thus, they were able to eliminate floor irregularities, the differences of which ranged from 3 to 12 cm throughout the apartment. Next on bituminous mastic they laid OSB sheets, additionally fixed with dowels. The choice fell on OSB, because this material is very durable and not afraid of moisture. Next, the plates were covered with a special primer.

On a note! To make parquet with their own hands, the family used improvised tools and the material itself, which miraculously fell into their hands. However, self-made parquet can be made at home only without interlocks, which increase the solidity of the coating. It can be a massive or type-setting version of the material. Such parquet can be fixed on the floor only with glue.

Parquet cutting was carried out using stationary circular and trimming machines. The resulting slats should have had the same size - in that case it was 10x70x500 mm. The moisture content of wood should be low - about 9%.

Fixation finished boards on the basis was carried out using the usual. At the same time, sometimes it was necessary to individually adjust the slats to each other. After the installation of the floor, the parquet was sanded, puttying the gaps acrylic composition wood, sanding and varnishing.

Master Class. Independent production of parquet floors with a heating system. Download file (click on the link to open the PDF file in a new window).

Laying the finished parquet

Laying self-made parquet is carried out in almost the same way as installing ordinary, store-bought material. Let's see how this process works in practice.

Step 1. First, the base is prepared - it must be perfectly even, since the parquet will be fixed with an adhesive. To do this, first, if necessary, a cement screed is made from concrete of a grade of at least M250. If the old screed is well preserved, then it should be cleaned of debris and primed with an epoxy compound. In this case, plywood is used as a basis directly under the parquet. Its sheets are cut into squares of the same size. The thickness of plywood should be about 12-18 mm. The squares will have dimensions of 50x50 or 75x75 cm. For convenience, appropriate markings are applied to the plywood sheets.

Advice! If the screed is made from scratch with your own hands, then it is important not to forget to lay the waterproofing material.

Step 3 The next step is laying plywood on the base and fixing it. The installation of individual elements is carried out apart, that is, the seams should not be joined at one point. Between the individual sheets there is a gap of about 2-3 mm. The base is smeared with adhesive mastic, after which the sheets are laid and screwed for additional fixation to the floor using dowels or self-tapping screws (depending on the type of base - wood or concrete).

Step 4 Plywood is sanded using a special machine.

Step 5 For convenience, markings are applied to the plywood, along which the parquet will be laid. It is applied in accordance with the selected pattern.

Step 6 Next, the base is gradually smeared special glue applied with a notched trowel. It is on this glue that parquet boards are laid one at a time. They are pressed tightly against the base, and the gaps between separate elements should be minimal. During the drying of the glue, the parquet can be pressed down with a load.

Step 7 Similarly, the entire draft base of the floor is closed. Next, the parquet is sanded.

Step 8 The last stage is the varnishing of the parquet flooring.

Advice! To close the joint between the parquet floor and other coatings at the exit from the room, you can use a sufficient width of the aluminum threshold.

Video - How to lay parquet?

To make such a floor yourself is extremely simple. To do this, we cut such wooden triangles. The degrees of the angles are shown in the figure. This element is good because it is easily formed beautiful and at the same time beautiful drawing

Working with artistic parquet

Sometimes craftsmen decide to take a desperate step and make artistic parquet with their own hands. This is also a type of parquet flooring, but materials are laid in a special way. In this case, the pattern is made from several types of wood, and may also have patterns made separately.

On a note! For the first time, artistic parquet for flooring was used in the 16th century. Its manufacture was considered a very complex process, and therefore labor costs were equated with those required when weaving expensive carpets. Such parquet was used only for decoration of halls in castles, palaces, houses of the nobility.

But even now, artistic parquet has not outlived its usefulness, although it continues to be a very painstaking species. self made, which is why it is very expensive. The work is also complicated by the fact that it requires care, a sense of taste, responsibility, the right choice of materials - all, even the most seemingly insignificant properties of the wood used, must be taken into account.

Techniques for the production of artistic parquet

For the manufacture of artistic parquet commonly used types of wood such as oak, ash, maple, walnut, etc. The denser the material used, the longer the floor will last, if necessary, it will be easier to repair it, and work with such material faster. The beauty of the finished drawing will also depend on how the wood was processed. For example, sawing a log can be done in different ways and this will also affect the appearance of the floor.

Papa Carlo parquet prices

Papa Carlo parquet

On a note! For artistic parquet, wood with a cross cut is usually used.

Table. Variants of drawings of artistic parquet.

Name	Description
	In this case, to create a pattern, several types of planks are used, which, after processing, are attached to the base shield. The most popular option for making a drawing.
	The finished drawing is laid deep into the base. Materials such as metal, amber, mother-of-pearl can be used for decoration. Less durable option artistic parquet, but more expensive.
	In this case, the pattern is created by cutting grooves for the pattern, which itself is made of dark wood. The method is very ancient and is now practically not used.

Also parquet flooring can be laid with a "rosette" (the parts have an oval or round shape, located in the middle of the picture), “border” (a part of the floor with a certain motif that divides the space of the room), modules (in this case, the parquet is assembled from separate panels - original geometric compositions are obtained).

Advantages and disadvantages of artistic parquet

No wonder artistic parquet is still appreciated. It has a number of advantages:

durability through use hard rock tree;
environmental friendliness;
excellent indicators of thermal insulation;
beauty and originality;
the ability to create your own pattern.

The disadvantages include high cost, complexity in manufacturing, low resistance to frequent and strong mechanical impact.

Making artistic parquet at home

The high cost of this parquet and at the same time the desire to make such floors nevertheless force home owners to try to make this parquet with their own hands.

Step 1. First of all, a design project is drawn up, on which the dimensions, the place where the pattern was created, as well as the main pattern of the parquet will be marked.

On a note! Work should be carried out at a temperature of + 17-23 degrees, humidity - about 40-60%.

Step 3 According to the templates laid on the floor, the future pattern is milled in the parquet base.

Step 4 Unnecessary elements are removed - gaps appear for installing artistic details.

Step 5 Finished gaps are cleaned of the resulting dust, sawdust, chips.

Step 6 According to the sketch from pieces of wood different types details of the pattern are made, which are then glued into the main parquet in the previously prepared places. Bonding is done on adhesive composition designed for parquet. A hammer can be used to get the parts into place.

Step 7 The whole picture is inserted in the same way.

Step 8 A parquet floor with a finished pattern is polished with a special machine.

Step 9 A primer layer of varnish is being applied. On the surface, it is smeared with a spatula evenly and without leaving empty spaces.

Step 10 Lacquer coating after drying, it is polished using a special machine.

Step 11 The floor is cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner - preparations are made for applying the final varnish layer.

Step 12 The final layer of varnish is applied with a roller, and in hard-to-reach places and along the walls - with a brush.

Video - Making palace parquet

Brushed parquet board - what is it?

At home, you can make the so-called brushed parquet. This is one of the new technologies for creating artificially aged floors. The material is subjected to special processing, during which it acquires an original appearance. By the way, this processing method can significantly increase the service life of the parquet base.

Aging of wood occurs due to processing with a hard metal brush, which removes the soft fibers of the boards, while the hard ones remain in place. Thus, textures will be clearly visible on the tree, and if they are covered with oil, the natural beauty will become clearly visible.

After the soft fibers of the wood have been removed, the boards are covered with a patina (special paint), which helps to make the structure of the wood more pronounced, emphasize its porosity, or other materials. Also, the boards can be toned - that is, the wood will change its color by a couple of tones. Usually it becomes a little darker than it was. Wood can be varnished, waxed or oiled.

How to make brushed parquet with your own hands

To make brushed parquet, you will need a grinder, a saw, a drill, a metal hard brush-nozzle for a drill, a milling cutter (it is not cheap, so it is best to rent it). Next comes the brushing process: the wood is cleaned of soft fibers thanks to a metal brush. This process gives it texture.

Advice! To reduce dust in the air, you can wet the wood with water before processing. However, before the next step, the material must dry well.

To get rid of the wood pile formed during the aging process, the board is processed with a polymer brush with a grain size of P80-P120. On the last step finishing material for the floor is polished.

Polymer brushes - end and radial

You can make parquet with your own hands, but all of the above procedures are quite time-consuming and take a lot of effort. How expedient is it to mess around with such parquet? It is impossible to give a definite answer. However, in modern world with its constant rush and lack of time, this type of work is carried out either by specialists or enthusiasts.

All photos from the article

In this article we will try to answer numerous questions regarding parquet boards. We have to figure out how it fits correctly on the glue and on the substrate, how to make a typeset parquet with our own hands and how to restore a worn coating. So let's get started.

Manufacturing

Is it possible to make a parquet board with your own hands using a simple household tool?

Yes, but with certain reservations:

Without special equipment, it is possible to produce only type-setting or solid parquet without locks for adhesive laying;

The tool will not be manual, but stationary. At a minimum, you will need a circular and trimming machine.

The very production of a parquet board consists, in fact, in rocks on slats of the same size (typically 10x70x500 mm). They are laid on a leveled base on glue with the most accurate fit.

After the board is laid, there are several more operations to be done:

Cycling;
Gap patching. For it, you can use an acrylic wood putty matched to the tone or home-made putty from sawdust and PVA glue;
grinding;
Application of the final coating - varnish or impregnation.

Repair

Do-it-yourself parquet board repair consists in scraping, during which the top layer of the board with signs of wear is removed, and re-lacquering. If necessary, even in this case, the gaps formed due to the drying of the board can be puttied.

Laying

Foundation Requirements

Independent laying of parquet of any type begins with the preparation of the base. The requirements that dry (floating) and adhesive laying methods put forward for it are very different.

floating laying

In the first case, it is enough just to level the floor. To remove slopes and noticeable differences, a cement-sand (on concrete panels) or dry (on a wooden base) screed is used.

Small differences (up to 5 mm) can be removed with a self-leveling mixture (self-leveling floor); defects up to 2 mm high are perfectly compensated by the substrate.

Please note: floating laying puts an end to the repair of parquet.
Scraping and sanding over a large area are carried out using power tools and require reliable fastening of the board to the floor.

Adhesive laying

Adhesive laying is much more demanding on the base:

What effect does concrete strength have on paving quality? This instruction is related to the fact that when adhesive laying deforming loads arising from fluctuations in the linear dimensions of wood during an increase or decrease in humidity are perceived by the adhesive layer and then by the base.

The preparation of the foundation in a typical city apartment-new building is carried out according to the following algorithm:

A waterproofing layer is laid on the floor - dense polyethylene with an overlap of cloths and their sizing with adhesive tape;
A damping tape is laid along the perimeter, which will prevent the transfer of shock loads to the walls;
Poured reinforced screed thickness sufficient to compensate for differences between the panels;
After the concrete has completely dried and gained brand strength (approximately 4 weeks from the moment of pouring), it is primed with an epoxy primer, which further increases the strength of the surface layer.

With a plank floor, which for some reason does not want to be removed, the preparation procedure is somewhat different:

Nails are heated with a 5-7 mm finisher;
Curved boards and "propellers" are attracted to the lags with self-tapping screws with a length of at least three times greater than the thickness of the board;
The remaining irregularities are removed with a scraper or planer;
12-18 mm is attracted to the flooring. Plywood is pre-cut into squares 0.5x0.5-0.75x0.75 meters in size and placed apart, with transverse seams bandaged. A gap of 2-3 mm is left between the sheets, compensating for temperature and humidity expansions.

Please note: thick moisture-resistant plywood may well replace a screed or self-leveling floor on a concrete base.
In this case, it is attached to the dowel-screws; for additional fixation of sheets, it is strongly recommended to use a two-component polyurethane adhesive.
The adhesive is applied to the concrete and leveled with a comb trowel.

floating laying

It is performed on the substrate and is possible if there are tongue-and-groove locks on the parquet board.

On a perfectly even base (on a self-leveling floor or plywood), dense polyethylene can be used as a film under a parquet board; if minor irregularities are to be compensated, foam or porous substrates are used:

Polyethylene foam;
Cellulose boards;
Cork, etc.

The procedure is completely identical to that when laying a laminate, adjusted for the fact that tongue-and-groove locks are coated with glue or sealant:

Wedges are installed along the wall, forming a compensation gap of 7-10 mm;
Then the first row of boards is connected. The last board is sawn off in place;

Tip: To minimize the number of cuts, start laying from the longest wall.

The next rows start with a short board (cutting from the previous row). Cross seams should not match in adjacent rows;
The last row is cut in width so as to provide a compensation gap of the same 7-10 mm.

Adhesive laying

Both on the screed and on the plywood, it is carried out using a two-component polyurethane adhesive. The glue is applied with a notched trowel, after which the board is laid and loaded for the duration of polymerization. And in this case, compensation gaps are left along the perimeter of the room.

Tip: Self-tapping screws can be used instead of weight on a plywood backing.
They are screwed into the lower ledge of the board groove at an oblique angle.

Questions and answers

At the end of our material, we have compiled a selection of frequently asked questions and answers to them, thematically not included in any of the sections of the article.

How to make a joint between a parquet board and a tile? Aluminum threshold of sufficient width. It can retain the metallic luster or be dyed in an arbitrary color. If necessary, the thresholds for parquet boards allow you to compensate for the difference in height between the coatings;

What does a parquet board with tongue-and-groove locks consist of? Upper layer- noble wood with maximum wear resistance. Substrate - plywood or cheap softwood with the direction of the fibers perpendicular to the top layer;
Which parquet board is the best and wear-resistant in relation to domestic operational loads? Massive, completely made of oak, beech or ash. Alas, its price is the highest among all competing solutions and reaches 10,000 rubles per square;

In the photo - massive oak parquet.

What is the service life of a parquet board? For multi-layer parquet with locks, the guaranteed service life is 25 years. The oldest examples massive parquet has been serving for more than five centuries;
Why do I need impregnation for parquet board locks? It protects wood without a varnish or wax layer from swelling when water enters the lock. Instead of impregnation, a transparent or colored sealant for parquet boards is often used: it not only prevents the wood from moistening, but also masks the seam that has expanded due to moisture deformation;
Which plinth for parquet boards is better to use? Solid wood, made of wood of the same species that is used to form the top layer of the parquet board.

Conclusion

We hope that we were able to answer the questions that the reader has accumulated. If some topics remain untouched, perhaps the answers you need can be found in the video in this article. We will sincerely welcome readers' comments and remarks. Good luck!

The current prices for “ready-made” building materials sometimes force home craftsmen to resort to various tricks that can significantly reduce the cost of the desired product, and secrets on how to make floorboard with their own hands or turn a rounded log into a beam, which is not inferior in quality to the “store” and is completely passed from mouth to mouth in personal conversations and communication on thematic Internet forums. It would seem, why such difficulties? But, upon closer examination, the goods available for sale often do not meet the stated requirements, and making a board with your own hands allows you to get the material of the desired quality, length and width in the shortest possible time, while sometimes you have to spend more than one precious hour looking for lumber that is suitable in terms of parameters. time. What is required home master to make your own floorboards?

Do-it-yourself floor board: work steps

In order to make a floorboard with your own hands, you will need to purchase a beam or rounded log, which can be “dissolved” into thinner blanks (on average, at least 20 mm thick), it is they who will subsequently turn into lining or tongue-and-groove lumber. The material prepared for sawing is marked and cut according to the selected thickness of the blanks, and then dried in natural conditions until a moisture level of less than 50% is reached.

Sawn and dried wood must be cut in length and width, bringing them to a "common denominator" - usually no more than 2.5 m in length and 150 - 200 mm in width, and give it flat surface cuts with a thickness gauge.

It is better to mark the side of an even cut - the “front” one, simplifying the process further work with material.

The blanks obtained in this way are leveled with a planer or saw, then the board is processed using abrasive materials, the places for eliminating defects are treated with special compounds, and then carefully polished and, if necessary, impregnated or coated with paints and varnishes.

In the case of a grooved board, it will be necessary to additionally carry out work on milling the edge of the lumber using manual or stationary equipment. Experts recommend using so-called "parquet" cutters for this job.

It is worth considering that the percentage of "marriage" with this option for the production of a floorboard will be close to 30% - what turns out to be unsuitable for use in its pure form can be cut off under right size and apply for other purposes.

Making floorboards with your own hands: the subtleties of the process

When starting to make your own floor boards, you should pay attention to such points as:

the choice of lumber for the manufacture of boards - it is better to give preference to coniferous wood, but in general you can use birch or maple;

drying time for lumber - in natural conditions it is at least six months, it makes sense to clarify the degree of moisture content of wood before it is purchased;

Availability necessary equipment- in the absence of a special three-sided machine that allows you to significantly simplify the cutting of the material, you can use a conventional circular saw.

DIY floorboard making is simple and convenient option for those who want to be sure of the quality of lumber, however, in the absence of the necessary tool base, it is worth considering the advisability of carrying out such work “at home”.

In the video below you can see how the floorboard is made with your own hands:

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The article discusses the advantages and disadvantages of artistic parquet, its main types and breeds from which the slabs are made. How to lay the floor covering and create decorative patterns.

Advantages and disadvantages of artistic parquet

The coating has several advantages over conventional parquet:

The user is given the opportunity to create an original floor that forms an individual style in the room.
Artistic parquet does not need additional decorative elements. It can be compared to a real work of art.
The floor has a long service life due to the use of hardwoods. For a long time, it does not lose its attractiveness.
The coating has a high environmental Safety thanks to the use of natural wood.
The porous structure of wooden samples retains heat well in the room and has heat-insulating properties.
The art parquet is not exacting in leaving.
Multiple grinding of elements is allowed.

Among the disadvantages of this type of coating, one can single out low resistance to mechanical stress, high cost of material and installation work. Laying the floor is accompanied by increased dust formation, noise.

The main types of artistic parquet

Decorative styling is a complex and painstaking work that is valued very dearly. Parquet is considered artistic if the following requirements are met:

The floor covering consists of dice different breeds wood, different in color, size and shape. When creating a picture, sometimes up to 60 types of wood are used.
The flooring has a pattern that echoes the general atmosphere in the room.

There are 2 types of artistic parquet:

Piece. It is used to create geometric patterns. All elements are made of the same size up to 50 cm long, 4-7.5 cm wide, 1.5-2.2 cm thick. They are connected with tongue and groove locks. Samples are made rustic, tangential, radial and cross section logs, so they differ in the pattern of the fiber. Most often, for decoration, they buy dies obtained by a transverse cut. Also on sale is a massive parquet board, which is mass-produced, so it is relatively inexpensive.
Palace. Differs in the most complex drawings, which are assembled from elements different sizes and shapes like mosaics. Available in sections 60x60x4 cm, 40x40x4 cm and 40x40 22 cm. Each board consists of two layers. The lower (base) is made of pine. The top layer is formed by pieces of wood that create a pattern. The strips of the section are connected to each other with thorn-groove locks.

The choice of the type of artistic parquet

Dies are made from different types of trees, each of which has its own characteristics. In order for the artistic parquet in the interior of the room to look harmonious, consider the characteristics of the material from which the planks are made:

Oak parquet . Considered a classic floor covering. Dies from it - solid, weakly absorb moisture. On the surface there is a beautiful pattern of various color shades, but over time the wood darkens. Samples with a normal drying time are considered to be of better quality; the accelerated version is not suitable. Oak parquet is a versatile flooring that can be installed in any room.
Beech. It has the same hardness as oak, but the color is softer, with a yellowish or reddish tint. It requires compliance with special operating conditions, otherwise the slats will bend.
Maple. The hardness is not inferior to oak. It has White color which turns yellow after a while. Experienced craftsmen it is recommended to buy materials only with a normal drying time, because. after the shortened procedure, the slats are deformed.
Pine. It is soft, the boards are quickly damaged by sharp female heels.
Cherry. It has Brown color with a hint of pink, darkens with time. The material is not hard, but is popular due to its easy processing. It is often laid in the nursery.

When choosing wood for parquet, consider the possibility of changing the color of the material after processing. Such combinations of wood look good on the floor: maple and walnut; beech and bog oak; Karelian birch and stained maple, etc. For three-color floors, the following combinations are recommended: oak, maple and ebony; walnut, maple, rosewood.

Artistic design of parquet floors

Decorative flooring can be created in different style decisions, which are selected according to the interior of the room:

Classic style. Such parquet is suitable for rooms of any type. It is distinguished by the presence of patterns of strict symmetry created by straight lines. Images are simple, often borrowed from the Greek or Roman heritage (for example, pictures of eagles or dolphins). The style is characterized by the use of material from trees with a red, black and pink tint, such as ash or maple. The color of the floor is chosen depending on the wall cladding.
Art style. The coating is liked by people who prefer calm shades.
Modern style. You can immediately identify by smooth curved lines, asymmetric compositions on floral themes and female figures in spacious clothes. Lilac or purple hue, which are typical for dice made of amarat wood.
Drawings with traditional national attributes. Created from contrast colors- black, white, blue-violet shades.

It happens that in the store and at home the floor looks different. It all depends on the size of the room, the lighting and the general situation. For large rooms, a coating with a large pattern will add solemnity and splendor. Huge paintings depicting vegetation or made in an avant-garde style look good.

In small rooms, make patterns in the form of clear shapes and lines, the background should be light. Dark colored parquet can only be installed in spacious rooms. Ornaments in the national style are created in contrast, from several shades.

Artistic parquet laying technology

When installing artistic parquet, it is necessary to take into account many factors that affect the appearance of the coating and the service life.

Checking the quality of manufacturing dies

For artistic parquet High Quality coverage must be carefully selected. In this case, it is recommended to follow our advice:

Control the width, length and thickness of the elements, the indicators should be the same on all samples. Make sure the front of each plank is flat and the corners are straight. If these conditions are not met, defects will have to be eliminated by deep grinding, possibly up to 1 mm deep. Such a serious refinement at the stage of installation of the flooring reduces the thickness of the plate and the life of the floor, because the permissible thickness of the removal of material should not exceed 0.2 mm at a time.
On the front side of the blanks there should be no knots, chips, cracks.
If possible, buy planks with the maximum thickness of the top layer, which increases the number of parquet polishing during repairs.
The humidity of the boards should be 9-11%.
Check the quality of the grooves and spikes. To do this, fold the boards into a square. If the figure has 90-degree angles, and there are no gaps between the elements, the locks are made with high quality.
Dies with large dimensions have little elasticity, and on uneven surface they can bulge and warp. Long samples on the back side must necessarily have grooves for about half the thickness of the material, which make the product more flexible.
The presence of grinding and polishing significantly saves time for finishing, but varnishing is not always beneficial. Installation work are accompanied by leveling and fitting the surface in one plane, and the varnish layer will be broken.
Sort the samples by cutting method. The most durable planks are obtained by sawing the log along. They are easy to identify by the straight lines on the front side and the solid color of the bar.
Drying of pieces of wood can be carried out using microwave, hot air, vacuum. The last method is the most preferred. The parquet is placed in vacuum chamber with temperatures ranging from 52 to 70 degrees. With such a sparing option, internal stresses do not appear inside the material, therefore, when changing parameters environment the dimensions of the dies will vary slightly.

Installation instructions for artistic parquet

Installation work is carried out after the finishing of walls and ceilings and the final fixing of cables and pipelines. During the procedure, the room should be kept temperature regime- +18-23 degrees. Air humidity should be within 35-60%, floor humidity - no more than 5%, residual humidity of walls - no more than 6%.

Laying is carried out in a certain sequence:

Foundation waterproofing;
Leveling with cement screed;
Surface priming;
Attaching plywood to cement screed or lagam;
Laying artistic parquet in accordance with the chosen style;
Puttying flooring;
Priming the surface for varnish;
Lacquering the floor.

If the floor laying technology is not followed, problems may arise - a creak will appear, the floorboards will dry out or fall off.

Creation of decorative drawings of artistic parquet

To obtain a coating with a complex color pattern, planks from different types of wood are used. Simple images are created from plain planks, placing them at different angles to each other.

Single-skin flooring is often made from oak, which has a pronounced structure, which is good from an aesthetic point of view. Such flooring is more durable than the floor of multi-species planks. Images are laid out in the form of ornaments, cubes, braids, etc.

The most common patterns of single-breed parquet are three images:

Herringbone - used in classic design.
Deck - planks are arranged longitudinally, suitable for all types of interior.
Vietnamese - interlacing of transverse and longitudinal planks.

There are several typical parquet elements that can be assembled from single-species and multi-species pieces of wood. The modular floor is assembled from square panels, tongue-and-groove locks are used for connection. Each section is made from individual dies. The dimensions of the product are selected according to the design of the floor. When determining the dimensions of the sections, it is necessary to leave gaps of 10-12 mm between the lumber and the wall.

When installing the modules, a layer of glue is applied to the plywood, on which the sections are placed. After checking the location, they are fixed with special nails. Some boards are made with embedded dowels. During installation, they are fixed with nails, which are hammered into the milling from the side of the free ends. Then the grooves are closed with dowels. There are 2 strips for each section.

To create a "socket", dies made from several types of wood are used. Elements have different color, so they can be used to create complex patterns, usually in the form of an ornament. The coating looks good in spacious rooms. Considered the most difficult wooden decking. The "socket" usually has a round shape, its dimensions are limited by the size of the room. It is not recommended to create too small, such coatings look unpresentable.

Installation of the "socket" is carried out as follows:

For the procedure, you will need a simple circular device. To make a tool, you need a rail, at one end of which a nail is driven in, at the other a pencil is fixed. With it, a circle is applied to the floor.
The inner space of the circle is filled with planks in such a way that the edges of the elements go slightly beyond the circle.
Draw another circle on top.
Mark the position of the planks inside the circle, dismantle them.
Cut the end boards according to the mark.
Apply a layer of adhesive to the base and level it with a notched trowel. Also grease the ends of the dies with the composition.
Place the boards inside the circle according to the marking and press down with a load while the glue hardens. In the first hours, rearrange the load on the parquet.

"Border" is decorative element, which can be used alone or in combination with other artistic parquet patterns. Often performed in the form of a geometric ornament for zoning the floor.

Installation of borders is carried out in the following sequence:

On the base, at the location of the curbs, draw a line.
Place the planks on the floor with a slight overhand mark.
After the glue dries, trim the edges of the boards.
In places of cut, clean the surface from dust and dirt.
Glue the border end-to-end to the main parquet.
Fasten the decorative element in addition to the base with nails, hammering them from the free side.
Lay a frieze between the decor and the wall, leaving a gap of 10 mm along the wall.

To lay the planks, adhering to the style you like, several methods are used, the most popular of them are:

Marquetry. The main method of installation of colored parquets. The pattern is created from individual planks to the full depth of the flooring. The work resembles the assembly of a large mosaic.
intarsia. Implemented into the finished floor decorative items from other types of wood.
Inlay. When installed together with wooden elements use copper, aluminum and other non-wood parts.

Watch the video about laying artistic parquet:

There is another way of laying with the additional use of nails, but it seems unreasonable to us, if the first two ways can perfectly hold the parquet together.

floating way

Floating parquet laying is the most simple option. The planks of the parquet are joined together according to the “thorn in the groove” principle. Since the floating method does not fix the parquet to the base, it will expand and contract depending on the humidity and temperature in the room. Therefore, when laying, it is necessary to indent 1 cm from the walls. If the indent is not made, the parquet will soon begin to creak, and this is very unpleasant.

It is necessary to lay the parquet in a floating way on a pre-laid layer of vapor barrier, and then sound insulation. Cork insulation is well suited as a soundproofing material, which also has good thermal insulation characteristics due to its porous structure.
If the parquet is laid floating, it can be repaired.

Adhesive laying method

Laying parquet on glue requires more time and labor (and, of course, buying glue, having a notched trowel and a drill with a mixing nozzle). Also, in the case of fixing parquet with glue, the base (usually plywood) must first be primed for good adhesion to the glue. There are primer types for wood and concrete.

The disadvantage of laying piece parquet on glue is the impossibility of repair.

How to install strip parquet

The first thing you need to know is to lay parquet with room temperature and normal humidity.

Laying strip parquet is a process consisting of the following steps:

Preparation of the base for laying parquet. Often a rough floor is made first ( various types we have a whole series of articles devoted to draft floors). If a subfloor is not required, you can simply put roll and slab sound insulation (it can simultaneously have both thermal and waterproofing characteristics; an example is cork backing, DSP boards, sometimes moisture resistant plywood is enough: it depends on what conditions your room has and what is under it). If, for example, this is the floor on the second floor, and there is a bathroom under it, then it makes sense to take care of waterproofing.
Distance from walls 1 cm. when laying any type of parquet, the distance from the walls is obligatory (even when laying on glue). When laying in a floating way, the indentation is needed for the natural expansion of the wood. When laying on glue, the indentation is needed to create additional sound insulation, due to the absence of adjoining the floor to the walls. During laying, the indentation from the walls must be provided with plastic liners 1 cm thick.
Laying parquet according to technology. We will talk about them a little lower. If you are laying parquet using the deck laying technology, then in each next row the board must be offset by at least 30 cm, and preferably half.
Grinding (aka sanding) parquet (if it does not have a finished front surface). For grinding, you need to use a special grinder. It can be rented.
Parquet tinting as needed. Toning is needed to emphasize the contrast of the wood structure: for example, the fibers will be better visible.
Parquet varnishing. It is required, first of all, to protect the parquet, and only then to create a glossy effect.
Plinth installation.

Knock the parquet boards together either with a rubber-tipped hammer or through a wooden plank (the plank must be pressed to the floor so that it does not fly out from the impact and scratch the parquet flooring). When laying the last row, it must be tamped to the already laid row using a special tamping strip (bracket).

Block parquet laying technologies

Parquet planks can be installed according to different technologies, each of which has its own look:

Deck laying (normal);
"Herringbone";
squares;
Diamonds;
Braids (mosaic);
Sheremetyevo star.

Deck

Deck laying is the usual longitudinal laying of parquet planks with the next row offset by about half to increase rigidity. Laying is better to start from the wall opposite the door, moving towards the exit.

If the finished flooring is to be a seamless gloss, then lay the planks lengthwise to the light.

Before laying the first row, lay the planks to their full length, taking into account the distance from the walls of 1 cm, if necessary, mark the cutting line from the end plank, and lay. Depending on connection type block parquet you can simply slide into the grooves of adjacent strips, or you can smoothly start at a slight slope, gradually lowering.

To make sure that the joint is even before laying the next row, after each connection of two planks, you need to connect a piece of plank of the next row at their junction, shake it a little to align the horizontal of the connection. And repeat this with each joint. The second row must first be fixed together, then check the joints with a piece of plank, then connect with the first row.

From the planks located near the walls, you need to saw off a groove or spike (depending on which side the wall is from the plank), so that the indentation from the walls is uniform. This must be taken into account even when measuring for cutting. Sawing, by the way, is done with a jigsaw.

Also deck laying can be done diagonally. It can be positioned at an angle of 45 degrees, or diagonally from one corner of the room to another. In any case, you need to draw a laying line, which will start from one corner of the room.

The first row of parquet is laid along the line, starting with sawing off the corner at the first plank. When the first row is laid, we align the joints with a piece of plank. Then we lay the subsequent rows with a distance between the joints of the rows of about 50 cm (if the boards are long) or half a plank (if they are short).

Herringbone

For herringbone laying, the planks should have a tenon on 2 corner sides, and a groove on the other 2. Laying is carried out in such a way that the connections are directed in one direction.

Planks can be laid at an angle of 45 degrees to all walls, or at a right angle of 90 degrees to the walls (steps).

Laying technology begins with a beacon "Christmas tree" - the first two laid rows. They set an even laying line for the rest of the rows, so the beacon "herringbone" must be perfectly aligned. To do this, you need to either draw or stretch a line between the carnations, relative to which the “herringbone” will be equal.

"Herringbone" is better to lay on the glue. By the way, if laid on glue, parquet planks do not have to have tongue and groove locks - you can do without them, it is still attached to the glue.

Squares and braided (mosaic)

The easiest way is to lay the parquet with a braid in the form of squares (if, of course, the dimensions of the planks allow them to be adjusted to such a shape) and rectangular options. The laying principle is very simple: join the first square of the planks, lay them out; join the second square of the planks and lay out perpendicular to the first. And so alternate perpendicular squares. Every second row shifts the squares by one to get a checkerboard effect.

This is a standard technology, but you can also lay out a mosaic, alternating, for example, the circle of the planks in one direction, and inside the circle in the perpendicular direction, and so move towards the center. You can simply lay out stripes, you can use crosses, you can use large cubes ... There are a lot of options.

Laying planks with a braid or squares begins with a beacon row, which is perfectly aligned.

Also, wicker mosaic squares and rectangles can be placed at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls (diamonds). But for this, as for the "Christmas tree", you have to cut a lot parquet boards, so buy material with a margin.

For laying piece parquet using the Sheremetyevskaya Star technology, it must be made of two types of shapes: simple rectangular and inclined diamond-shaped. The result of a mosaic made using this technology pleasantly pleases the eye with possible combinations of geometric shapes and a play of texture and color.

In order not to get confused, the Sheremetyevsky Star must be laid according to the scheme.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding

After laying the parquet, it must be sanded. >Earlier, grinding was called scraping, because a scraper was used for it. But the cycle can deform the parquet too much. Therefore, special parquet sanders are used. They work like sandpaper- overwrite the surface for a single level, so that all the joints of the planks are on the same horizon. There are different types of grinders with different grinding power attachments.

But the grinder is a rather bulky equipment, and you can’t grind the corners with it. For this, a sanding boot is used - a manual grinder for processing corners and other hard-to-reach for large grinder places (for example, a place under a heating radiator).

It is better to sand parquet with your own hands 2 times:

First, grinding takes place with a hard nozzle to remove all irregularities.
Then the nozzle is changed to a less hard one and sands the parquet to a pleasant smoothness.

If, after laying the parquet, other construction or repair work indoors, then you need to wait for them to finish and only after that proceed with grinding and subsequent varnishing.