How to make the floors in a private house with your own hands? Do-it-yourself wooden flooring: wooden flooring designs, do-it-yourself installation Wooden floors in a private

The process of erecting a private wooden house consists of several stages, one of which is associated with the construction of the floor. Its variety is chosen at the design stage of the structure and many factors are taken into account. About what are the floors in a wooden house, and the features of their designs will be discussed in this article.

The floor on the first floor in a wooden house, when an unheated basement is located under it, has its own characteristics. In this regard, several types of structures can be distinguished:

1. Cold floor construction, arranged on an earthen base (without underground). The device of this kind of cold floor is possible only if there is dry soil under the building and a high location of the floors of the lower floor, under which a layer of compacted sand is laid. On top of it is poured another layer of clean, calcined, dry sand. Logs made of coniferous timber with a thickness of more than 150 mm are buried in the formed soil base and abut against special recesses in the walls of the house. From above, a single boardwalk is performed, the thickness of which is from 30 to 40 mm.

2. A warm floor with a cold underground is recommended in areas where there is a high level of groundwater. Such a construction is arranged as follows:

cleaned sand with a layer of 10 - 15 cm is laid on the ground in the underground and rammed;
install supports with a height of at least 50 cm. To do this, you can pour concrete mortar into vertically dug pipes with a metal frame of the required height;
a double layer of waterproofing material and wooden slabs 3 cm thick are laid on top of the supports;
load-bearing beams are laid.

For thermal insulation, it is necessary to mount a subfloor laid on rails nailed to the ends of the log. For flooring, cut unedged boards are used. Then a layer of vapor barrier and insulation are laid. After that, a plank floor is laid over the beams.

3. The device of a cold floor with a warm underfloor is recommended where the soil has a low level of soil water. In the same way as in the previously described method, the structure is installed, but the stage of installing a subfloor with insulation is skipped and a clean floor is installed.

What should be a wooden house

The floor in a wooden house must be strong, durable, warm and even, with an aesthetic appearance.

When performing work on the installation of the floor in a wooden house on their own, they take into account the above requirements, and also determine the procedure for performing the upcoming work, take into account the characteristics of the structure of the building and the individual characteristics of the operation of the house. First, you need to consider different floor options that can be installed in a wooden house, study their pros and cons, and, taking into account the operating conditions, choose the appropriate option.

An important criterion that the floor must meet is its evenness. Regardless of the floor material, it must meet the standards of sanitary and hygienic, constructive, operational and aesthetic requirements.

Floor types

Floors in wooden houses are made of wood or concrete - the most common building materials. The technology of the “heat-insulated floor system” device can also be implemented.

Now in the construction market there are several varieties of "warm floors". They differ in the type of coolant and work efficiency. We will tell in our article.

Concrete floor

A popular way to obtain an even base in a relatively short time is to pour a concrete screed. If it may take a month to completely dry the screed, then the installation of a new wooden one will take longer.

The advantages of concrete floors are as follows:

In a significant reduction in the cost of the finishing coating device.
After the screed dries, an even base is obtained, but which can be laid with any finishing material.
With an initially high-quality screed, additional alignment before the finishing stage of work may not be necessary, which will save time, physical strength and material costs.
The screed device can be done independently, without the involvement of specialists.

How to equip a concrete floor in a private house on your own in two main options - on the ground and on the floors - you will learn

Among the shortcomings, one can note the large weight of the monolithic floor structure and, as a result, an increase in the load on the foundation. Therefore, the necessary calculations of the foundation are performed at the design stage of the house. Another nuance is that when the walls vibrate, cracking of the screed is possible, which will lead to heat loss. Therefore, when installing a warm floor, it is necessary to perform high-quality thermal insulation of the base.

Wooden floor

Another common material for flooring in a wooden house is natural wood. Its advantages include the following:

Environmentally friendly material with a rich natural pattern.
Wood is safe because it does not contain harmful additives, it is completely natural and does not release harmful toxins into the environment.
Aesthetic appearance and organic combination of wood with the rest of the building surfaces, while the concrete floor will look unnatural.
When installing a wooden floor, you can refuse other finishing materials. With the help of varnishes, oils, stains and other impregnations, a wooden finishing base can become stronger, more durable and acquire an original, noble appearance.
Wood is very durable and, depending on the breed, you can choose a material with certain performance properties and texture.

The undeniable quality of natural wood gives an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, creates an optimal microclimate and comfort in the house.

Important! The wooden floor is repairable. To carry out the current repair of its fragment, it will not be necessary to dismantle the entire flooring; a separate fragment can be replaced. This will require a minimum set of tools and construction skills.

Of the minuses of a wooden floor, the high cost of the material is noted, the laboriousness of its installation. In addition, getting a perfectly even base can be quite difficult.

Which is better - concrete or wood

At the design stage of a private house, it is necessary to immediately decide what the floor will be - wooden or concrete. To choose the most suitable option, you need to know what the difference between such floors is.

Price

To pour a 5 cm thick screed, you will need 0.5 bags of cement (300 rubles / mesh) and 1.5 (50 rubles / mesh) bags of sand. Thus, 1 m 2 of the screed will cost an average of 225 rubles. If the work will be performed by a hired person, then the cost of the work must be added to this amount - 250 rubles / m 2.

If we take a dry timber 10 x 10 cm as a basis, in increments of 40 cm (400 rubles / m 2) and OSB plates (600 rubles / m 2) 18 mm thick. With the work of a carpenter, the cost will be 1250 rubles / m 2.

Communications

In modern houses, the heating, water supply and sewerage system is laid inside the floor structure. In the event of a pipe break, wooden ones can be quickly cut and accessed to communications. It is more difficult with concrete floors - you will have to use a professional tool to remove the screed, and the process itself will take a lot of time and effort.

Timing

The screed gains full strength within 28 days from the date of pouring. Moreover, it gains 70% strength in the first week. All this time, the solution gives off moisture and nothing can be laid on it.

The wooden floor can be used immediately after installation.

Durability

If the laying of the wooden floor is not carried out by a professional master, then after a couple of weeks you can hear a characteristic creak when walking on the floor. This disadvantage is deprived of a concrete screed. Moreover, when the work is performed by hired workers, the result and the quality of their work can be assessed immediately.

Weight

The weight of 1m 2 OSB-sheet 18 mm thick is 12 kg, logs per 1 m 2 weigh about 25 kg, depending on the type of wood. Thus, 1 m 2 of a wooden floor will weigh about 40 kg. A 1m 2 screed with a thickness of 5 cm weighs 100 kg.

The process of erecting floors on poles

When erecting such a floor, the following procedure must be followed:

Prepare the base. For this, marking and excavation of the soil with a plant layer is carried out. The resulting recess is covered with rubble, and on top with sand, which is then rammed.
Then, brick support pillars are installed, taking into account the basic design requirements regarding the height of the mark of the finished floor and the structure below it.
It is mandatory to take into account the ratio of the height of the supporting column and the section of the brick. So, with a support height of 25 cm and above, the recommended width of the support column is equal to two bricks.
It is necessary to start installing supports first along the perimeter of the future premises, and then within the specified boundaries.
On the upper plane of each column I lay two layers of roofing material to ensure the waterproofing of the structure.
Then the wooden linings are fixed. Logs from logs or timber are installed on them. The width of their spacing relative to each other is chosen depending on the width of the floor boards to be laid.
Slag filling, which does not reach a lag of 5 cm in height, is used in order to exclude the mobility of the floor structure in the cold season when the soil freezes. The remaining free space provides ventilation of the structure.

Flooring on top of the installed logs is done with the help of boards, which begin to be laid, stepping back 1.5 cm from the wall. The resulting gap performs a ventilation function, which is very important for the correct and long-term operation of a natural wood floor.

Boards are attached to the joists with long nails hammered at an angle of 45 degrees. While the wood is not completely dry, install temporary skirting boards.

Single layer floor

The single floor structure can be placed on pillars as described above. Only on top of the sopors are beams, on top of which the flooring is made of tongue and groove boards.

The second option is to install the floor along the beams cut into the body of the load-bearing enclosing structures of the building. Beams act as the basis for the floor, and brick supports are no longer required.

Due to the large free distance between the beams, the fastening of the flooring from the boards is carried out along the crate:

The crate is made of a bar with a square section of 5-6 cm.
The step of the timber in the crate depends on the thickness of the floor board. The smaller the thickness of the board, the smaller the distance between the lags.
It is important to control its horizontal position during the installation of the crate, so that in the end you get an even plank covering.
The fastening of the boards begins after all the logs are installed in their places and securely fixed with nails.
If it is not supposed to lay an additional decorative coating on top of the flooring - laminate, tile, linoleum, then it is finished.
After the single flooring is mounted, it is covered with two layers of protective varnish.

Advice. If the flooring is rough, then an unedged board can be used for its installation.

In the manufacture of a single floor, serious professional skills, serious time and financial costs are not required. But its disadvantage is low thermal insulation properties.

The optimal solution for arranging the floor in a wooden house is a two-layer structure, consisting of a rough and finishing layer. Installation of such a structure occurs in the following way:

The black floor is mounted from an unedged board up to 4.5 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic composition. In this case, preference should be given to coniferous wood - it is durable, resistant to moisture, dampness and decay.
The boards are laid tightly to each other, and a layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool, foam plastic, expanded clay or sawdust is laid on top.
In addition to insulation, it is necessary to perform vapor and waterproofing of the structure in order to extend its service life.
Clean floor boards are laid, as for other types of structures, leaving a gap between them with a black floor of 1.5 cm.

A clean floor can serve as a finishing coat or serve as the basis for laying a decorative floor covering that will not only decorate the room, but also increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor.

Start of work - installation of the subfloor

A draft floor when installing a plank floor is necessary for several reasons:

To increase the operational life of the structure due to the presence of high-quality floor ventilation.
It performs the function of a solid base for laying insulation and finishing floor.
Makes the frame of the structure more rigid.

Before starting work on the installation of a draft structure, check the following:

The wood chosen as the material for the subfloor device must have an optimal moisture level - this will eliminate the possible deformation of the structure during its subsequent operation.
Boards should not have pronounced defects.
If an inexpensive board can be used for a subfloor, then for a finished floor it is purchased with a margin so that later you do not have to look for material of the same shade.

Training

Installation of the subfloor can be carried out both on the ground and on floors. In any case, it is necessary to perform a set of preparatory measures:

The walls of the building must be equipped with ventilation windows, closed from the outside with special gratings.
All wooden parts are treated with antiseptic compounds to increase the life of the structure.
Given the size of the room in which the floor will be mounted, calculate the required amount of material.
Throughout all work, it is important to monitor the horizontal position of the floor structure in order to exclude the formation of a slope.
The beam and logs are subject to processing, in which they are cut to eliminate slopes and bevels.

Subfloor laying

So that the floor does not creak, does not vibrate, is even and warm, it is necessary to pay special attention to laying the subfloor and, first of all, to the lags.

The logs should be hung on the beam supports in increments of 60 cm - a heater will be laid in the formed gap. It is not worth saving on beams in order to avoid deflection and vibration of the floor during operation.

Where heavy equipment, such as a stove or fireplace, will subsequently be installed, the floor is reinforced by placing beams in 30 cm increments.

Fastenings in such places are also additionally reinforced.

At the bottom, bars are nailed across the beams. Between floors, the beams are nailed along the beams - this will save the height of the room and, if necessary, use the upper beams as a decorative element in the interior after their additional finishing.

An OSB sheet is laid on the bars in the gap.

After that, mineral wool slabs are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and on top there is a continuous layer of vapor barrier, which covers the logs and is fixed with a construction stapler. The seam of the vapor barrier is glued with adhesive tape.

The second layer of vapor barrier is overlapped, and a ventilation gap is formed on top. To do this, use a bar 40 x 100 mm, screwed to the floor logs. A finishing floor will be mounted on top of these bars.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

Video - Wooden floor insulation

Finished floor laying

To obtain an aesthetically attractive and durable finished floor, it is recommended to use a milled board with a tongue and groove fastening.

Table 1. Instructions for laying a finished floorboard

Illustration	Description
	The first board is laid with a groove against the wall, leaving a compensation gap.
	It must be fixed with self-tapping screws so that you can later close the attachment point with a plinth. There are 2 options for further fastening the boards.
	In the first option, self-tapping screws are used, which are twice as long as the floor board.
	Self-tapping screws are screwed into each lag in the center of the board. Subsequently, the hats can be masked with wood putty.
	Then take the next board and combine the spike with the groove.
	If necessary, the boards are adjusted by hitting the block with a mallet.
	Or pressed with a chisel.
	The second mounting option is to screw the screws at an angle of 45 degrees into the spike. To prevent the board from bursting, you must first drill a hole for the self-tapping screw.
	With this option, the boards adjoin each other more tightly, and the fasteners are invisible.

After all the boards are laid, their surface is sanded and coated with wear-resistant varnish in several layers.

Concrete floor in a wooden house

The most common way to install a concrete floor in a wooden house is to pour it over the ground, but with the obligatory condition that the ground must be dry.

Stage 1 - preparation

Preparatory work includes the following steps:

Using a level, determine the main indicators and calculate earthworks.
In order to prevent soil subsidence and cracking of the concrete floor in the future, the soil is carefully rammed with the help of special devices.
A well-packed sand cushion is made on the ground. The bedding will be denser if the material is poured in excess of the required volume by 25%, moistened and thoroughly compacted with a roller or vibrator.
Expanded clay or gravel layer is laid on the sand.

Stage 2 - waterproofing

The next step is to perform , so that it does not absorb moisture from the concrete screed, and it will also protect the floor from ground moisture. For this, bitumen-based roll materials are used. You can use a thick plastic film.

The waterproofing material is laid with an overlap, leading it to the wall by 20 cm, and then the joints are glued with adhesive tape. It is important that the material is homogeneous, without damage.

An alternative method is the coating method, when mastic waterproofing is applied at the stage of filling the subfloor.

Stage 3 - pouring the black floor

A black or technological floor serves as the basis for a hydro- and vapor barrier layer. For its manufacture, concrete of class B7.5 - B10 and crushed stone 50-20 in size are used. There are no strict rules for pouring the rough layer, the main thing is that its thickness is about 50 mm, and the difference does not exceed 4 mm.

Stage 4 - vapor barrier and insulation

A vapor barrier material is laid on top of the subfloor in the form of inexpensive fiberglass or polyester membranes. PVC membranes are a durable material that is not afraid of rotting. Insulation is laid on the vapor barrier - this allows you to increase the energy efficiency of the dwelling by 20%. The following materials can be used as a heater:

Mineral wool, the density of which does not exceed 120 kg / m 3. So that it does not accumulate cotton wool, it is isolated with polyethylene.
Where the floor is subjected to heavy loads, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam, which deforms during compression and then returns to its original state.
When using foam to give strength, it is covered on all sides with polyethylene.

Stage 5 - final screed

At the final stage, the final screed is performed, which will become the basis for the decorative floor covering. It can be monolithic or dry. In the first case, a solution with a large filler in the form of crushed stone, stones, small pebbles or a cement-sand composition (quartz sand) is poured using lighthouses. Start pouring the screed from the far corner of the room, leveling the solution with the rule. Complete drying of the screed occurs after 30 days.

An alternative is a dry screed based on fiberboard, plywood and asbestos-cement sheets, GKLV. The technology is simple and fast:

Lined with plastic wrap.
A technological gap of 1 cm is left along the walls, into which soundproofing material is placed.
Perform a sand backfill 5 cm thick.
The sheet material is laid in two layers and securely fixed to each other using self-tapping screws or building glue.
Perform puttying and grinding of joints.

Finishing materials

The material for finishing the floor in a wooden house is selected depending on the interior solution. If the appearance of the house inside retains the flavor of natural wood, which is not hidden behind other finishes on the walls and ceiling, then the flooring should be organically combined with it.

Table 2. Types of flooring

Illustration	Description
	In a wooden house, the best solution would be to install a floor made of natural wood. It will organically fit into the interior with wooden wall paneling. Wood has low thermal conductivity, it is environmentally friendly and safe. Natural wood flooring is distinguished by a variety of textures and a rich natural pattern.
	A beautiful and natural floor covering for a wooden house can be obtained by laying natural wood parquet, which has high aesthetics, a variety of shades and good performance.
	In rooms with high humidity - a bathroom, a shower bath, in the kitchen, as well as in the hallway, laying tiles will be a practical solution.
	An alternative material to expensive natural wood is laminate, which has high strength, wear resistance and decorative effect. This material imitates many, even rare and very expensive types of wood.

Prices for popular types of piece parquet

piece parquet

A wooden house is distinguished by a special atmosphere of home comfort and warmth, so natural, natural materials look natural in its walls.

From the author: Hi all! As you know, all people are divided into two types - those who like to live in apartments and lovers of private houses. So, my friend Ivan belongs to the second, for which he paid the price. When he and his wife bought a living space for themselves, he did not understand anything about repairs, but the building needed improvement, and there was no money for professional builders.

I had to learn a lot, but now Ivan can do all the construction work and even lay the floors in a private house with his own hands. He learned most of the useful information from his best friend (that is, me). If you also want to equip your home on your own and save on the wages of workers, then you have come to the right place. Let's get started.

During the construction of housing, the question always arises: “Which flooring is better to do?”. After all, under any circumstances, it must meet such requirements as the creation of healthy living conditions and safe operation. The floor must above all be: level, durable, hygienic and non-slip. There are several types of floor coverings:

the favorite of residents of private sectors is considered to be a wooden floor, since wood is not only an environmentally friendly material, but also, compared to concrete, it is warm;
for those who prefer strength to heat, concrete floors are suitable;
floating and bulk floors are still gaining their popularity, but I think that over time they will eclipse even wooden ones, because their installation takes only 1 day.

Before choosing one of these coatings, I recommend getting to know each one better.

Several ways to lay a wooden floor

It is really possible to build a wooden floor even without the help of specialists, for this it is enough to familiarize yourself with the technology of laying it on different types of bases. The wooden covering happens in one and two layers (with a subfloor). If we talk about the advantages of wood flooring, we would like to note environmental friendliness and ease of installation. Aesthetically pleasing, practical and durable, wood flooring can brighten up any home.

Installation of covering on supporting pillars

The second name for this installation is "floating floor". This type of coating is produced mainly when the connection of walls with lags is impossible. The work takes place according to the following scheme:

Source: http://otdelkaexp.ru

We start with the formation of holes in the underground, in which we will install brick supports in the future. We cover the bottom with a 20-centimeter layer of loose material, for example, gravel, sand or crushed stone, fill it with water and carefully tamp everything.
On the compacted material, we begin laying brick supports (it is advisable to use red brick). There is a second option: it is necessary to install reinforcement in the arranged formwork and pour the composition of cement and gravel. If you decide to form supports in the second way, then the section should be 50 * 50 cm. Check the height with a level and adjust if necessary.
From above, we introduce anchors or threaded studs into the poles to a depth of 15 cm (beams will be attached to them). In a small dwelling, the floor on the supporting pillars can be made in almost the same way as in a spacious one. The only difference is that the pillars are placed only around the perimeter of the room and the beams are chosen more massively.
After completing the preparation of the pillars, we lay 3-4 layers of roofing material on them. It will act as a waterproofing.
We make holes in the beams for mounting studs.
We put logs or beams on our roofing material, hook them onto studs and adjust them with a laser or water level. After laying the base, we fix the lining to the logs with nails. We also need to fix the logs on the poles with the help of nuts and washers.
We cut off the excess height of the studs using a grinder.
We fill the surface of the underground with expanded clay sand, a layer of 20 cm. I recommend using expanded clay, as it perfectly insulates the floors.

Source: http://izolexpert.ru

If you still decide to make two-layer floors, then you must immediately lay the floorboards on the beams, and completely fill the underground with expanded clay sand, while leaving no more than 10 cm between the layers.

Installation of a rough coating

The draft floor can be mounted in several ways. The method is selected depending on the insulation material used in the work. If either slag, then the coating must be made continuous, from floorboards that are attached to the lower cut of the beams.

We cover all the cracks with clay, and after it dries, we pour insulation into the cells.
We attach a layer of vapor barrier film to the bottom boards and beams and lay thin plywood.
Next, we put the insulation and again cover everything with a vapor barrier, fix it to the beams with brackets.
We fasten logs of 10 * 3 cm to the beams, which will become a support for thick plywood or floorboards.

How to make a draft floor you can see clearly in the video:

Installation of wood flooring on the ground

Installation of wooden coverings can be carried out not only on support pillars, but also on the ground. However, the scheme of work here will look different:

We thoroughly tamp the soil and pour a pillow 20 cm thick on it from gravel, crushed stone or sand.
We compact the bulk material and lay roofing material or any other material for waterproofing on it. The entrance to the walls must be at least 10 cm.
On top of the waterproofing layer, we put a support for the beams on the mortar (concrete blocks or bricks can be used). The distance between the beams must be at least 60 cm so that insulation can be placed there.
In the free gaps between the beams we lay insulation (polystyrene, mineral wool, etc.).
We install wooden beams on supports made of blocks or bricks, level them and fix them with a corner.
Whatever coating you choose, it is better to additionally insulate the surface with mineral wool slabs.
We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film and lay the floorboards, fixing with nails.
In order for the floor to be ventilated, we leave gaps of 1-1.5 cm in size near all walls.

Installing a wooden floor on a concrete base

If a screed acts as a base under a wooden covering, you can lay logs directly on it. When the floor needs to be raised by 10-20 cm, it is laid on threaded studs. Do not try to save on lags - the reliability of the entire coating and the duration of its operation depend on them.

I’ll immediately note such a moment - there must be a rough coating on a concrete base. But, this should not scare you anymore, because we already figured it out earlier. So, the installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

We mark the placement of the lag (the distance between them will be 60 cm).
On the lines broken off by color, we put points at intervals of 30-40 cm and in these places we make holes into which we insert the fixing pins necessary to hold the beams, in which we will also make cuts.
Use the level to adjust the horizontal.
We drive the nuts twisted on the studs into the drilled holes. If there is an excess part, you can cut it off with a grinder.
Now you can mount the subfloor (see above) and the decorative coating.

Installing the lag on the screed

It is not at all difficult to install logs on a concrete screed, especially if you have all the necessary equipment.

The simplicity of the construction of the boardwalk is apparent. And it's not just that the ultimate load must be taken into account; for example, for the floors of the basement floor of a private house and the attic, it is different. Wood is a material, although malleable in processing, but “capricious” in its own way, as it easily undergoes deformation when humidity and temperature change. In addition, there is a specificity of its laying, depending on the type of base (floor). It is realistic to mount a high-quality wooden floor with your own hands, only having dealt with all the nuances of this work.

A wooden floor is a somewhat vague concept. Basically, when it comes to such a design of the lower part of the room, it means laying boards on the supporting structure. But if further, “finishing” finishing with other material (laminate, parquet board or something else) is expected, then mainly products (slabs, sheets) based on wood are used - multilayer plywood, chipboard, OSV, MDF.

The main purpose of such flooring is maximum leveling and ensuring sufficient surface strength. But there is no need to talk about a wooden field in a private house as such in such cases; this is his intermediate version, "finishing".

How to choose the right boards? When arranging a wooden floor in a private house, it is definitely not worth saving on them. Otherwise, such problems will arise (cracks, grooves in the flooring, deformation of individual floorboards) that subsequent repairs (taking into account the complexity of the work associated, among other things, with the need to free the room from everything) will be much more expensive.

Board type. Only grooved. Do-it-yourself processing at home is a very complex process, requiring practical skills, appropriate tools (which are not available in every home), time and a separate room.

There is another option - from the glue beam. But this lumber is used, as a rule, in rooms of a private house with an increased load on the floor, since it is not cheap.

Linear parameters (mm). Here it must be taken into account that the tree must provide not only high strength of the flooring, but also good thermal insulation of the lower part of the room. The optimal dimensions are: total thickness - 45 ± 5 (depending on the specifics of the room), width - around 150.
moisture content of wood. 12% is the acceptable upper limit of its value. Therefore, you should purchase an industrial drying board. Naturally, it will be expensive. But all recommendations on how to remove excess moisture from a tree on your own are nothing more than profanity. It is necessary to choose an appropriate place on the site, to make a competent stacking of lumber, to organize its protection from moisture, good ventilation, acceptable temperature conditions. And most importantly, wait. And this is time. Moreover, a high result is not yet guaranteed.

The grade of the tree. And in this regard, it is irrational to buy cheap boards. Not only that, even paint, especially varnish, will not hide large flaws in the form of knots, chips, and so on. Defects in the floorboards during the operation of the wooden floor will become more and more pronounced. The cracks will only get bigger; knots fly out of the boards, and “pits” or through holes will appear in their place.
Type of wood. Here it is desirable to maintain the optimal ratio between such properties of lumber as strength, beautiful texture and resistance to geometry changes under the influence of external factors. Experienced craftsmen recommend paying attention to oak and ash. Such boards are expensive, but for a wooden floor they are considered the best, as they are able to carry an increased load.

If this factor is not decisive, larch, fir, cedar or pine are perfect for floors.

The degree of protection of the tree. In production, more expensive products are impregnated with special / preparations from decay, ignition. This can be implemented (even recommended) with your own hands, but only in terms of secondary (additional) processing. It will not be possible to recreate industrial technology at home, therefore, the quality of work will be low.

What lags are used? Here you need to understand that during operation, any materials (even if visually imperceptible) change their geometry. Consequently, the integrity of the structure also depends on how much the coefficients of deformation of its elements coincide. For the installation of a wooden floor, metal profiles (although it is more convenient to work with them) are not suitable, only lumber. The recommended timber parameters are 100 x 100. This is a universal choice for floors in any room. Smaller samples (for example, 50 x 50) will have to be tightly “fastened” to the screed (otherwise the flooring will “play”), and this is not always possible or rational.

When should you do wood flooring? Experts consider the best period to be the end of March - the beginning of April, that is, before the end of the heating period. There are several justifications.

At this time, it is easy to achieve the most comfortable conditions for such work. If necessary, effective ventilation can be arranged so that wood dust does not overcrowd the room. Then technical devices will not be needed.
The air humidity in the room is optimized. This ensures that the lumber does not absorb water, except perhaps in a minimal amount.
The nuances of arranging the screed are such that you will have to wait for it to completely harden. And the worse the external conditions, the longer.

As an option - in the summer. But the arrangement of the wooden floor should be started if weather forecasters guarantee stable dry weather for at least the next 10 days.

Preparatory work

Further - all stages, regardless of the specifics of the premises in a private building. What needs to be done in relation to the features of a particular room (location in the house, size, degree of arrangement, etc.) is easy to understand.

The basis

This can be both a floor and a ground, if the floors are arranged on the basement floor. In any case, there are a number of activities.

Surface condition assessment and elimination of deficiencies

In relation to the ground, it is carefully leveled, compacted (the simplest rammer is easy to make with your own hands), and a sand cushion is arranged (the recommended layer thickness is about 20 cm). It performs two main functions - more accurate planning (levelling) and mitigation of the possible deformation of the upper levels when the load changes.

If we are talking about a concrete floor (interfloor), then the slabs are thoroughly washed, after which, during the inspection, existing defects are revealed. Any cracks, loose joints are sealed. Otherwise, in the future, possible leaks into the lower room and heat loss cannot be avoided.

Foundation waterproofing

If the base is soil, then it is advisable to immediately cover it with a film. Depending on the size of the room, you can either buy a membrane that will completely cover the floor (it will be more expensive), or make its original analogue by fastening several canvases by welding (you will need a special tool) or with adhesive tape, laying them with an overlap. The nuance is that the edges of the film should be bent up, approximately to the level of the intended installation of skirting boards. They will also close the excess waterproofing.

Arrangement of the screed

This is a separate and rather large topic (composition of the mixture, ratio of components, kneading rules - there are enough nuances). Therefore, only the main points.

Materials are selected based on the financial capabilities of the owner of a private house and the type of surface. If we are talking about overlapping, then the screed is made thin, with leveling compounds. For a soil base, it is advisable to pour expanded clay on the waterproofing.

The advantages of this solution:

round (comparatively) granules will not damage the polyethylene film under any circumstances. If crushed stone is used, then its breakthroughs in several places will appear unambiguously;
expanded clay is a good heat insulator. Therefore, it is possible to save some money on the material of the insulation (if it is to be mounted).

The recommended layer thickness (in mm) is from 40 to 100. You should focus on the size of the "pebbles"; the larger they are, the more layer is required, since gaps are formed between them, increasing heat loss. Small granules are stacked quite tightly, therefore the layer can be made smaller.

Advice. Costs can be optimized if you purchase expanded clay of different fractions. Then its thickness will be no more than 50 - 70. But only well-dried granules should be laid; they will begin to draw excess moisture "on themselves" (that is, absorb), additionally protecting the tree from dampness.

It is advisable to install and level the beacons immediately, before pouring the solution. After leveling it, you will have to wait for the screed to dry completely (at least 4 weeks, and then, under favorable conditions in the house). This largely explains why experts recommend certain periods for organizing wooden floors in a private house.

It is impossible to accelerate this process artificially (with the help of technical devices in the form of heaters, heat guns, and so on). Such rationalization will result in the fact that the screed will dry out unevenly over the entire depth. The top layer will set quickly and literally clog the surface. This will drastically reduce the intensity of moisture evaporation from the lower levels. As a result, a decrease in the strength of such a base and the appearance of cracks.

Installation lag

In a private house, they can be laid directly on the base, without arranging a screed (for example, in the basement). In this case, it is advisable to prepare small brick racks. Here the main attention is on the upper sections of such supports. They must be in the same (horizontal) plane. To prevent the beam from moving, a metal pin or wooden insert is placed in the center of each post. It is not difficult to guess how to fix the lag in this or that case.

If the logs are laid directly on the ground or screed, then it is desirable to treat the lower planes of the timber with tar. The work is easy, and it does not require money. The advantage of this solution is the additional protection of wood from absorbing moisture from a damp surface.

Sometimes, a supporting frame (crate) is preliminarily mounted on the supports, to which the logs are “fastened” with self-tapping screws. As a rule, this is done when laying them directly on the ground or slab, since the pillow may not provide perfect alignment.

The recommended interval between lags is about half a meter. If more, the strength of the flooring decreases; less - increases the consumption of materials and the load on the floor. In addition, there will be problems with the installation of a heat-insulating layer.

Wooden floor insulation

Do it or not worth it - it's up to the owner. This largely depends on the specifics of the room. But if it is unheated, or residential, located on the lower floor, then additional thermal insulation in the form of expanded clay and the boards themselves are clearly not enough. The best choice for warming a wooden floor is mineral wool. It is sold in various modifications, but products with the prefix "eco" are considered the best for a private home.

The material is elastic, therefore, even if the lag axial lines do not coincide (the "cells" are curved), it is quite easy to lay the mats; they compress slightly and are easy to fit into place. And after straightening, they are securely held between the lags, while there are no gaps along the beam-insulation line. Therefore, gap sealing is not required.

When choosing mineral wool in thickness, you need to focus on the fact that after installing the mats (plates) between the lags, they are slightly lower than their upper cut. This is necessary to form a small space under the wooden floor, through which air can circulate freely. Natural ventilation helps to remove excess moisture from under the flooring, thereby protecting the boards and insulation from moisture.

Finished floor installation

It is carried out in 1 or 2 rows. A single-row floor is arranged, as a rule, in utility rooms, country houses, sheds and the like. For most of the rooms in a residential building - only if a thick board is chosen or a "finish" lining with parquet or laminate is supposed.

With a double plank field, the boards are taken thinner (the main thing here is the total thickness of the flooring). The advantage is that cheap lumber is suitable for the first level; and this gives some savings. Sometimes the owners of private houses lay a film between the rows, which also partially reduces heat loss and increases the degree of waterproofing.

Features of laying a wooden floor

A small gap is left between the walls and the floorboards (about 1.5 - 2 cm) so that the flooring does not begin to warp when the wood expands or gets wet. In addition, this installation scheme guarantees effective natural ventilation of the space under the floor. Therefore, the risk of mold and mildew on the boards is minimized.
The first board (from any edge) is rigidly attached to the joists; and self-tapping screws. If you use nails, then problems will arise in the future - individual floorboards will begin to “play”, and the creak of the boards will constantly be heard in the house.
Their adjustment is done with a hammer and a piece of board, carefully so that the tenon fits snugly into the groove along the entire length of the sample. But this is the case with the profile board. If an ordinary edged one is bought, the technology changes.

First, the extreme boards are fixed on the logs. All the rest, in turn, fit between them simultaneously from both directions. Naturally, in the center of the room there will be difficulties; the last floorboards will not lie exactly in place. They are put in a “house”, and then they are pressed down, standing on his “horse”.

The last stage is screwing all the boards to the joists at pre-designated points. Beforehand, a chamfer is made in each of them so that the head of the fastener is completely “drowned” in the tree.

It has already been noted that self-tapping screws should be used as fasteners. The nuance is that you need to choose not ordinary products, but with a coating against corrosion. Otherwise, rust spots will appear quite quickly in the places where the boards are fixed to the joists.
It is advisable to “walk” along the lines of the joints of the floorboards with a grinder. If wooden floors are equipped in a private house, then it is worth buying it; it will be needed again, and more than once. Processing the seams will smooth out the existing irregularities between the boards. This is especially true for decks that are supposed to be varnished, which is most often done to preserve the grain of the wood.

It turns out that when installing a wooden floor in a private house, it is quite possible to do without the services of professionals. Following the above recommendations, all stages of work are easy to do with your own hands.

The arrangement of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors will become unusable in a short time, and they will need to be replaced. Using some impregnation, you can protect the tree from decay. Chemical protection methods are very effective and prevent the process of material deterioration. However, a wooden structure impregnated with chemicals cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that it is because of this indicator that a tree is chosen, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between the layers. Fasten the wooden flooring using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.

The subfloor denotes certain bases, which by themselves form an ideal surface for laying the final floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed to the floor covering.

In wooden structures, draft floors are made by three methods:

wooden on logs;
pouring concrete;
use of plywood flooring.

Wooden floors on logs

In a wooden house, the subfloor device does not differ from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only feature is how the lags are attached:

There is no need to fasten the logs to various wooden boards. The best option is to strengthen them to the basement or grillage of the foundation, retreating a couple of centimeters from all the walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11 cm on all sides of the lag.
Before laying the base, lay the strapping from below, which is made of a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. They do not need to be rigidly strengthened with strapping. It should only be fixed so that they do not stagger while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a few centimeters indent from the walls.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before that, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. It is necessary to first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut in the tree the dimensions necessary for the groove, which will be required for the support function.

Important: it is recommended to add about 2cm to further widen the lag. It must be remembered that the laying of the log and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the laying of the waterproofing layer is completed.

The standard steps between two lags are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, the choice of the lag section and the acting load is made. With small sizes, the sections should be approximately 15x10, with heavy loads - 15x20, with medium ones - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load action, if the beams have a small section, it is desirable to provide section parameters of 30x40 cm.

Installation of subfloors on logs

When the installation is done, you will need to do the standard installation. It is carried out in several stages:

It is necessary to fix the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the log from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial bar with boards that will have more lags in width. They will need to be nailed either along or below the lags.
Boards should be laid. They need to be laid on the cranial bar, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it goes onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation, and use a stapler for fastening.
Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
Vapor barrier. Lay in the same way as waterproofing.
Ventilation. To create a ventilation gap, you only need to break through the counter rails along the lag on top of the vapor barrier.
Coating. At the final stage, it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. From the wall, the logs must be separated by a gap of 2 cm. They will then be placed heaters.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house design services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Video description

Read more about floor insulation in a wooden house - in this video:

Rough plywood floors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has a high hardness. Plywood is also used for flooring. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be laid in one of two options:

On a cement base. It will be necessary to provide a horizontal and even base or use leveling stands.
Attach to the legs. The main thing is to correctly set the lags to ensure that the joint of the sheet hits them. The joists must be set in such a way that the top surface provides a straight line. They then remove the insulation and sound insulation.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it is necessary that it be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers, the minimum thickness should be at least 9mm.

All debris and dust must be removed from the base prior to final laying. If possible, priming should also be done - primer treatment. Plywood must be fixed with glue, and the head of the self-tapping screw must be drowned.

Concrete floor

Like the draft and finishing floor in a wooden house, the concrete version is less common than the others. The concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved with the help of thermal insulation material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is more even and durable. The concrete floor in a wooden house is also chosen because it is better preserved from destruction.

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:

Lay on the lags.
Lay on the ground.
A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
Stakes less than 11 cm should be hammered into the ground, so that later gravel can be poured over them. After that, it should be tamped and the pegs removed.
Next, the sand is poured.
Then a large polyethylene film is laid, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. The height of the installed rail must be equated with the height of the cord. The concrete is then poured onto the prepared surface.
Concrete is leveled along the rails.
Next, the concrete should be covered with a film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is sometimes necessary to spray the mass with water.
After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.

Materials for processing lags

Some environmental factors, such as dampness, should not affect the lags. Therefore, when providing a floor in a wooden house, it is necessary to protect them from certain factors.

Bioprotective compounds

The drug with a bioprotective composition protects the tree from mold, decay, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of such funds will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.

Bioprotective compounds are praised for:

environmental friendliness;
slight odor;
absence of allergens.

It is necessary to apply preparations before the installation of the floor in a wooden house has begun.

Indelible antiseptic

A great option if the city has high humidity. It is also indicated for use in places with high rainfall, temperature fluctuations, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 coats. After completion of work, the color of the tree will become pistachio.

Folk methods

Folk remedies for processing lags:

Transformer oil. Due to deep penetration into the structure of the tree and embalming, this agent perfectly protects the material.
Resin. From bugs, fungi and decay, birch resin will perfectly help. Its only disadvantage is the vulnerability to fire.
Motor oil. Pros - low price, good protection. Cons - too strong smell, sometimes interfering for several months.

Before starting work, you should understand the layout of wooden floors, which consist of 4 “layers”:

Draft coating.
Heat and waterproofing layers.
Clean floor.
Finishing.

Therefore, when wondering what to make a finishing floor in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 stages, which were mentioned above, and start working on the finishing floor.

To make a finishing floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is being built in 3 stages:

Logs are laid - so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
The board must be fixed closer to the wall.
Next, you should use a hammer and a bar so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. With the help of a self-tapping screw, fasteners of each log are carried out through the comb.

Important! If there are plans to change the floor in the future, it is necessary to use a simple mounting option - all floorboards should be fixed from above to the logs using self-tapping screws.

Conclusion

In this article, we will talk about how to make a floor in a private house. First of all, you need to decide on the design of the floor. The design of the floor is determined by the way the house is operated, for example, in a country house you can lay a single plank floor, and in a full-fledged residential building you should make a floor with insulation.

How to make a floor in a private house from boards

Floor from boards in one layer. It is the simplest floor option. This design is suitable exclusively for summer buildings or housing in warm countries. If the building design provides that the floor beams are mounted in the walls, then the distance from one beam to another is, most often, too large to immediately lay the boards.

To provide the necessary strength, laying a log is required. If you plan to arrange the floor on top of the supporting pillars, then the placement of the beams can immediately be made as required.

Now, logs are laid on top of the supporting beams, which are set strictly horizontally, for this, wooden spacers and wedges are used. After checking the location of all the logs with a level, they need to be attached to the beams with nails, and then the floorboard should be nailed to them.

Two layer plank floor

To equip such a floor, significantly higher costs and efforts will be required, but this is offset by a decrease in heat loss. For the device of the subfloor, it is better to use coniferous wood. To save money, you can use a non-edged board or slab.

Most often, thermal insulation is laid in the space from the draft to the finishing floor.

As thermal insulation, you can use expanded clay, a mixture of clay and sawdust, or straw. Naturally, you can use modern materials - polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. A finishing floor (grooved board) is laid on the thermal insulation.

concrete floor

The concrete floor is equipped in several stages:

First of all, markup is done. Here it is better to use a laser level. After its installation, it will mark the walls in the right places for the future floor. To mark the level in the center of the room, threads are pulled from the marks in the walls.
Next, we do gravel backfilling. This is the insulation in your floor. The earth should be cleared of plants so that they do not germinate through the floor. After that, drive in stakes so that their level does not reach the level of the future floor by 100 mm. Dumping starts from the wall opposite the door. After backfilling the entire area, the gravel is leveled and compacted, and the pegs are removed.

At the next stage, sand is poured, compacted and leveled.
The arrangement of proper waterproofing plays a huge role, the moisture insulation of a concrete floor is usually made with a plastic film, the thickness of which is not less than 250 microns.
Next, we make the filling. First of all, you should set the level of the beacons, which are used as wooden or metal slats, the distance between which is from 1 to 1.5 m. The upper edge of the slats should be in contact with the stretched threads. Then, the rope marking is removed.
Now the inter-rail space is poured with concrete, from the end of the room to the door. After that, the concrete is leveled using the rule.

After the "seizure" of the concrete, it is necessary to dismantle the rails, and fill the voids with a solution. To level the mortar in the cracks, a “grater” is used for plastering. After that, the floor is covered with plastic wrap for a month. It is better to periodically moisten the concrete. This will enable the concrete to gain maximum strength.

Filling the floor in a private house - instructions

For self-pouring a concrete floor, no special skills in construction are required. The main thing here is the preparation of the necessary consumables, and the calculation of their quantity. If this is done, then filling the floor in a private house will be effective and simple.

Do not forget, the arrangement of a durable and even concrete floor is the key to the quality arrangement of any floor covering.
For quality work, you need to use:

vibrotamper;
ruberoid;
polyethylene film;
expanded clay;
foam boards;
reinforced mesh;
restrictive rails;
building levels.

The order of work or instructions for pouring the floor in a private house

1. First of all, you need to prepare the base surface for the future concrete floor. To do this, the top layer of soil should be removed to the required depth. Make an effort to make the plane as flat as possible. Now, it must be rammed with broken bricks or rubble. A vibrotamper will help you with this. If you do not have the opportunity to use such a tool, and you need to equip the floor in a small area, then tamping can be done manually.

2. At the next stage of work, waterproofing and thermal insulation should be arranged. It is most rational to use roofing material for these purposes. If you want to save a little money on insulation and you are sure that the groundwater level will never reach the floor in your house, then floor insulation can be done by laying several layers of a material such as ordinary plastic sheeting. Here the main role is played by your personal preferences and financial capabilities.
3. When the waterproofing is fully equipped, you should start laying the heat-insulating material. For these purposes, you can use expanded clay, or foam boards. Although this material is being used less and less, glass wool can also be used to equip the heat-insulating layer. When insulating a concrete floor, approach responsibly the process of calculating the amount of consumables, otherwise, such repairs can cost you dearly.

4. Now, you can start the process of filling the floor with a solution. Concrete is laid on top of the prepared surface from the end of the room, which is opposite to the door, while gradually moving towards the beginning of the room. In this process, the use of restrictive rails, which are set in accordance with the level of the floor, will help you. Here it is very important to strengthen the final layer with a metal frame. To carry out reinforcement, a conventional chain-link mesh can be used. With the help of these actions, it is possible to achieve an increase in the impact resistance of the upper layer.

5. Well, now you can proceed to the final stage. Here you will need to carefully make a screed using a leveling layer of cement, which has been diluted with water, until it turns into a liquid slurry. For these purposes, you can use a special leveling mixture, which is freely sold in specialized stores.

Video - pouring the floor in a private house

Do-it-yourself flooring in the house

If you are planning to do the flooring in the house with your own hands and do not know how, then the information below will definitely help you with this.

The most responsible approach should be taken to the installation of the floor in a building in which year-round living is planned, since the indicators of comfort and appearance of the room depend on how correctly these works are performed.

What knowledge should you have before doing flooring?

Several factors influence the cost of laying flooring, and first of all, what type of flooring do you plan to equip. There are methods by which floors are laid, and the most common of them are:

Arrangement of the floor from the boards in two layers;
Arrangement of the floor in one layer;
Arrangement of the floor, which uses support pillars.

The use of each method is associated with both positive and negative aspects. The most inexpensive option is to lay a single floor. The cheapness is explained by the fact that when using this method, the material consumption is not large, and the installation is simple - even a novice builder can do this work. But, in such floors, the thermal insulation properties leave much to be desired, for this reason, in winter, it will not be an easy task to establish a comfortable temperature in the room.

To ensure warmth in your home during the winter and year-round comfort, it is recommended to equip double floors. To make this type of floor, use an uncut board (for the bottom layer) and a tongue-and-groove board (for the outer layer).

Naturally, this type of flooring will be more expensive, as more materials will be spent on it. However, the level of technical and operational properties of a double floor covering will be higher than that of a single one.
If we talk about arranging the floor on top of the supporting pillars, then this technology is relevant in houses that are built in areas with a high level of groundwater. This design makes it possible to protect your home from the harmful effects of moisture.
And finally, before you engage in flooring, it is better to consult a specialist. By following these steps, you will select the most functional floor option for your home and save on materials.