How to build a brick oven with your own hands. How to easily fold a stove with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swedish"

Where there is access to solid fuel, the good old Russian stove will always be relevant. It will warm the house, you can cook food on it, and such a unit does not depend on the presence of a centralized gas pipeline or electrical network. However, among a number of advantages there is also a disadvantage - the complexity of constructing the structure.

Do you want to make a stove, but don’t know how to properly fold the stove and arrange the chimney? We will help you realize your plans. The article describes in detail all stages of construction wood stove, given practical recommendations according to the choice of materials and are marked technological nuances performing masonry work.

Depending on the main function, three are distinguished:

for heating;
for cooking food;
combined option.

The latter is intended both for heating the home and for preparing food. An impressive chimney system with numerous channels is installed for the house. It must retain as much heat as possible from the combustion of fuel and smoke gases in order to warm the air inside the house.

If you need a stove for cooking, you can get by with the usual vertical chimney, but a hob is installed above the firebox. You can also make an oven underneath it. To create a combined version of such a stove, both a hob and a chimney that retains heat are used.

Depending on the type of device, choose its location. The heating stove should not be placed close to the outer wall, otherwise some of the thermal energy will simply evaporate outside. It is better to place it in the center of the room so that the air in different parts The house warmed up evenly.

It is better to think about this point when designing a house. The heating stove can become an object that separates large room into several separate zones. Each of them will be warm.

WITH hob they act completely differently. In a closed kitchen, it is best to place it close to two adjacent external walls. This will allow excess thermal energy to be transferred outside so that the room does not overheat during cooking.

Cooking stoves are also installed separately, on outdoors. This is a popular element of the recreation area. Nearby there may be a grill, barbecue, cauldron and other cooking utensils. On a cool evening, the warmth from such a stove will pleasantly warm your vacationing guests.

A combination stove, like a hob, is placed near two walls, but it is better if they are internal. Then the heat will not go outside, but into the house, and the kitchen will be moderately warm. The chimney is made massive, as for heating, but it is shifted to the side living rooms. As a result, thermal energy is distributed throughout the house quite evenly.

Preparation for work

For laying a stove with a stove, different types of brick are used. Usually take red full-bodied for external masonry and fireclay - to make the internal lining of the firebox, as well as the smoke well.

The foundation is poured with concrete mortar. To prepare it you will need cement of at least M400, preferably M500. The sand can be river or from a quarry, but it must first be sifted to prevent the ingress of impurities. Clean water should also be used. For the solution, you should also take granite crushed stone about 30 mm.

The foundation is backfilled using rubble granite, a suitable fraction is approximately 300 mm. In addition, you will need to prepare a solution of red clay and sand.

Instead of clay, you can purchase clay powder; the instructions for using it are indicated on the package. All components must be of good quality; the integrity and service life of the future stove depends on this. To seal the joints you need to prepare.

The work is carried out using ordinary construction tools.

You may need:

containers for mixing the solution;
Master OK;
Bulgarian;
plumb line;
level;
roulette;
rule;
mallet;
furnace hammer;
other devices for processing and laying bricks.

To make a high-quality solution, it is better to use a hammer drill or drill with the appropriate characteristics, as well as an attachment designed for these purposes. Will come in handy shovel and a sieve.

Construction of a wood stove

After the type of device has been selected, materials have been prepared and appropriate place, you can start working.

The process of creating a wood stove is divided into three stages:

Construction of the foundation.
Construction of the furnace itself.
Creation of a chimney structure.

All work should be carried out strictly according to technology. During operation, such a device heats up and is subjected to high loads. Even a small mistake can lead to consequences in the future big problems. If in doubt, it is better to consult an experienced stove maker.

Construction of a separate foundation

The oven base must not be connected to the belt or columnar foundation Houses. The device is heavy, it will upset the base more than the walls and roof. Therefore, even at the design stage, this point must be taken into account.

When creating a separate foundation for brick oven it is important to make the bedding correctly, be sure to perform reinforcement, leveling and glue the waterproofing

If the house has already been built, but you still need a stove, you will have to open the floor, get to the ground and fill a separate base. Exception - monolithic foundation, its load-bearing capacity will withstand such additional load without noticeable deformation.

The formwork used is ordinary sheet roofing felt reinforced with wooden supports, but plastic film can also be used instead.

First, dig a pit of the same shape as the base of the furnace, but slightly larger, about 20 cm for each side, and about half a meter deep.

After this, perform the following operations:

The soil at the bottom is carefully leveled and compacted.
A layer of sand is poured to the bottom, it is also compacted and moistened, the recommended thickness of the sand cushion is about 90 mm.
Sheets of roofing material are laid on the walls, this is a waterproofing layer.
If necessary, roofing felt is reinforced with boards and bricks, which act as formwork.
A layer of crushed stone is poured onto the sand and compacted.
A reinforcing mesh is made from a metal rod, and wire is used for knitting.
A solution consisting of cement with the addition of sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 2:1:2 is poured onto a third of the remaining height.
Pour the next cement-sand layer (3:1), leaving about five centimeters to the top of the pit.
After this, add another layer of the same mixture to the very top.
The screed is leveled according to the rule.

Now you need to wait about four weeks for the fresh foundation to harden well.

After this, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the base is covered with two or three layers of roofing felt, which are glued bitumen mastic. Waterproofing will protect the stove body from contact with moisture from the ground. The bottom layer of the foundation, if desired, can be made of cement and gravel; the recommended proportion is one to three.

If roofing felt is not at hand, they will be suitable for the role of formwork regular boards, but they need to be covered plastic film to protect from water. It is best to build the foundation for the stove to the level of the floor covering or even a little higher. It's easier to do this way Finishing work.

The upper part of the foundation is carefully leveled and checked with a level. It is better if it is flush with the plane of the floor covering

The part that rises above the floor is usually made a little larger; for this, the formwork is expanded. It would also not hurt to perform separate reinforcement of the top layer - a mesh with a pitch of about 75 mm will do.

The order of laying the furnace

To understand how to correctly assemble a simple stove with a stove, first perform the so-called dry masonry, i.e. lay out the bricks in rows, according to the planned pattern, but without mortar. Instead, use pieces of plywood, slats or boards of suitable size. The space between the individual rows should be the same.

If the brick is laid correctly, the dry masonry is dismantled, after which the masonry mortar is prepared and work is done with it. The easiest way is to use clay powder from the store. You just need to dilute it correctly according to the instructions and add sand.

With clay it's a little more complicated. First, you need to soak it in water for about a day. After this, add sand in small portions to the resulting mixture of water and clay and knead the composition with your hands until smooth. The amount of sand depends on how thick the clay is used.

As a result, the resulting mixture will become thick enough so that it does not flow from the shovel, but slides off it. In addition, the composition should not stick to metal tools. If the resulting mixture meets these characteristics, you can begin laying. Here is an example of a circuit for a small combination oven.

First, markings are applied to roofing material glued to the base.

The first row is always made only from whole bricks. First, markings are made on the roofing felt and a cord is installed. The finished row is checked with a level; it will become the starting point for leveling the rest of the masonry

The first two rows are made continuous, while the vertical joints between whole bricks in adjacent rows should not coincide.

The next two rows are made with gaps for the blower and holes for cleaning the chimney. The openings are closed with metal doors.

The doors should be prepared before installation: drill holes in the corners, insert pieces of wire into them and wrap the frame with asbestos cord. Pieces of wire are placed in the mortar between the bricks

The fourth row is made of fireclay bricks, since the firebox already begins here. Part of the height of the brick is selected, and a grate is placed above the opening.

The fifth row is performed in the same way as the fourth. From the sixth to the eighth, the masonry continues to be repeated, but a gap is left for the combustion chamber door.

The top of the wall between the firebox and the chimney needs to be slightly rounded, carefully cutting off the edges of the top layer of bricks. This measure will improve traction and prevent the formation of turbulence.

The row above the firebox door will become the base for the stove. Part of the brick around the perimeter is removed, lined with asbestos cord and a cast-iron hob is placed on top.

The red line indicates the places where you need to select about one and a half centimeters in order for the stove intended for cooking to stand up. The asbestos cord should be pre-impregnated with masonry mortar

If done correctly, the slab and the top of the ninth row of bricks will be level.

Next they continue to post side walls And chimney channel. This will take about six or seven more rows. The next row should also include a canopy hanging over the stove. To strengthen it, use a steel corner.

All that remains is to lay out the chimney; its height is nine bricks. In this example, on the sixth row out of nine, they stopped laying out the partition between the left and middle channels. Thus, a gap was created for the free movement of smoke.

Now we need a solid masonry above the left and central channels.

In the right smoke channel, before the last row of bricks, a gate is inserted and a gap is left for the chimney pipe.

Such a relatively small stove of a simple design would be appropriate in a small house or country house. It will provide the necessary heating and cooking capabilities

All that remains is to arrange the chimney and carry out facing work, if necessary.

Experienced stove makers Sometimes the stage with dry masonry is ignored, but for beginning craftsmen it is mandatory. This will help you understand the internal structure of the stove, all its channels and cavities, in order to prevent possible errors.

For the firebox, fire-resistant fireclay brick is used, the pipe and the stove mass are made of solid red brick. Sand-lime brick It is prohibited to use it in the construction of stoves. Each element must be cleaned of any contamination before laying.

In almost every row, some bricks are adjusted to size. Experienced stove makers advise that when dismantling dry masonry, separately fold the elements of each row. You can also take a marker and mark each brick with the number of the row and the number of the element’s place in the masonry.

Instead of mortar for dry masonry, it is most convenient to use wooden slats of the same thickness. They will also be useful in the future to control the amount of mortar between the bricks.

The work is carried out as follows:

During “wet” masonry, each row is first laid out dry to once again check the position of all elements.
On the bottom row, narrow slats that were used previously are placed on the sides.
A layer of solution approximately 10-12 mm thick is applied on top.
Lay the brick and hammer it with a rubber hammer until it settles on the mortar to the level of the slats.
The laying continues in the same way.
After removing the slats, the resulting cavities are filled with solution.
The resulting fresh seam must be immediately embroidered to give the masonry an aesthetic appearance. appearance.

The slats are removed only when the row is third or fourth from the top. Now they can be reused. To carry out the work you will need about four sets of such slats.

Each row that is laid on the mortar must be checked by level and plumb for its position relative to the horizontal and vertical.

Crushed bricks cannot be used in laying parts of the furnace that are subject to constant temperature loads. In general, it is undesirable to use elements with cracks and chips in the construction of solid wood and chimneys. Crushed bricks may only be used to fill the base for the foundation of the stove.

Old brick obtained from dismantling destroyed structures is suitable for laying a foundation if it is not severely damaged.

The quality of the masonry largely depends on the adhesion strength of the brick and mortar.

To improve this moment, experienced craftsmen recommend:

Before laying, red brick is soaked for 7-10 minutes. Fireclay only needs to be dipped in water and shake off the drops.
Place the brick in place in one clear movement, without moving or tapping it.
Apply only the required amount of mortar to the masonry site. The seams in the solid wood should not be more than 5 mm, in the firebox - no more than 3 mm.
During the laying process you need to “mop”, i.e. rub the inner surface of the smoke circuits and oven chambers with a stiff brush to create the maximum possible smooth surface along the flow path of flue gases.

If it was not possible to immediately put the brick in place, you should completely clear the mortar from both the element itself and the place where it is installed, and lay the brickwork on a fresh layer of mortar.

When laying pipes, it is allowed to use only red solid brick, which tolerates acid deposits and temperature changes well. The smoother the internal surface of the chimney, the better the draft and the less blockages. You can treat the insides of the pipe with liquid glass.

Our website contains articles from detailed description technologies for constructing different types of brick kilns, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with:

Useful video on the topic

Scheme for creating a small heating and cooking stove:

Construction of a furnace equipped drying chamber, according to Proskurin’s drawings:

Laying a stove does not tolerate fuss and haste. It is necessary to think through and carefully carry out each stage of work in order to obtain the desired result. It's better to start with a small design, as described above. Having gained experience, you can move on to building more complex ovens: with an oven, drying chamber, arched openings, etc.

Do you have experience building a stove with a stove? Please tell readers about technical nuances arrangement of the foundation and laying of the solid fuel unit. Comment on the post, participate in discussions and add photos of your homemade products. The feedback block is located below.

This article contains clear, very detailed photo instructions for laying a brick oven with your own hands, tips on how not to make a mistake when choosing necessary materials and how to properly place a stove in a private house for optimal heating larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a small house and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.

Brick kiln placement options

The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. IN in this case the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking is a budget housing option for a bachelor or a small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.

Important: it is worth taking care of the external insulation of the house in advance, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:

Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove makers still make their own solution from the old fashioned way. river sand with a grain of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.

From the accessories you need to purchase grates, ash and furnace doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.

The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If you are doing the laying for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model from the prepared brick future furnace. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks during real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of the stove.

When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:

plumb line;
trowel;
roulette;
putty knife;
Bulgarian;
knitting wire;
building level;
metal strips, corners;
containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove

Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that come with years of experience. Here is information about enough in a simple way creating a stove-fireplace for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.

Foundation laying

Basic row brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick; some stove makers even fill this level with crushed stone.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

Construction of the furnace body

The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.

A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.

The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.

The grate is laid not on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. To ensure that it lies at the same level as the bricks, holes are cut in the fireclay bricks.

The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.

The large oven door is similarly secured using wire fasteners.

The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the required size.

The next brick row is laid.

A fireplace grate is laid on the fire-resistant brick along with the brick row.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove and fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.

The stove body is built.

Creating a chimney

The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.

The wells are divided again, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.

The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.

There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.

A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.

Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.

Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Larger stoves require more skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.

A small brick stove can sometimes be quite useful, especially if you do not have a large room and do not live in it permanently. It will quickly warm up the room and create a comfortable environment.

Today we will tell you how to make a small brick oven with your own hands, what you need to take into account for this, and we will offer instructions on manufacturing rules. You can also watch the video in this article and select the modification you need.

Mini ovens and their features

Small brick stoves for summer cottages also have their own characteristics; you should familiarize yourself with them before making a final decision.

The compactness of a brick or appliance structure is considered the main condition for a small room;
An important condition for such a stove is safety, because usually country houses are built from wood, which dries quickly in the sun and, if hit, can easily flare up like a match. Among other things, the chimney pipe and the device itself must be sealed; they have excellent internal draft, because carbon monoxide, which gets inside, can lead to quite sad consequences;
The stove, which is placed on a summer cottage in the winter, must withstand enough fire without kindling. for a long time and don’t get soggy at the same time;
Warming up and quickly lighting the device, spreading heat is also the most important condition for a stove of this type, because when it rains or when completing difficult work, you want to relax in a warm room and drink hot tea;
It is desirable that such a stove be equipped with large doors so that it can perform the functions of a fireplace, because it is almost impossible to do without evening gatherings next to the fire;
Long-term heat retention is extremely necessary moment, if you are going to a house overnight;
Without hob V country house it is almost impossible to get by, especially if the electricity in the village periodically turns off and there is no gas supply;
Also an important factor is the fuel used for the stove. To save money, choose an omnivorous heating device that can be melted various options– brushwood, coal, firewood or household waste;
It is desirable that the stove has the ability to install a hot water supply register;
The simplicity of the design of the heating device allows you to fold and install it yourself, which saves a tidy sum, because the services of craftsmen in this regard are not cheap;
An important point is aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform a room, or add a certain gray spot to the overall design.

Brick ovens

A small brick stove for a summer residence is used quite often.

But during installation you will need to consider the following points:

The stove can be installed in such a way that it will distribute heat to several rooms without heating circuits. If the furnace was installed correctly and the valve was installed, it is considered fireproof, but a strong foundation will need to be created for this building, which will be isolated from the foundation walls. This is a basic condition; if it is not met, the masonry may lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the house shrinks, it can begin to pull on the base of the stove;

Attention: Do not forget that such stoves do not like long periods of downtime and dampness, therefore, in order for the heat transfer to be maximum after a period when it was not in use, you need to carry out several drying fires without significant loads. In each of them we gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process is usually called acceleration.

It is precisely because brick is afraid of dampness that such stoves are installed in a dacha only when people live in the house most of the time and there is the possibility of burning it;
Residents of private houses consider only those buildings made of brick to be useful and real. At the same time, heating devices made from other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special coziness and unique atmosphere. And what’s more important is that they are multifunctional. Professionals in the stove business have developed a huge number of different models from which you can choose for a specific option.

Installation of a small stove

A small brick oven can be installed with your own hands without any problems.

There are two options here:

First option, you are simply making a stove with a foundation. Then the price of the building will increase, but it will be a fairly heat-intensive structure;
Second option, this is if you do not have enough funds and do not have the skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal stove and simply cover it with bricks to increase the heat capacity.

Attention: In the first option, your building will occupy more space, and heat transfer will be higher.

Materials that will be required for the work

You will need:

Twenty liters of clay mortar;
Boards;
About sixty bricks;
Blower door;
Cast iron plate;
Fire door;
Lattice;
Fireclay brick.

The size of a small stove occupies 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is laid on an edge or flat. This type of stove perfectly retains and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the construction of a foundation is not a prerequisite. The floor should be made of thick and durable boards that are well secured.

A similar stove on its own is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has more functionality and a heating part, which includes a cooking part. It also plays the role of a fireplace. Such a furnace can be erected without any problems and within 24 hours.

At the very beginning, you need to light the stove with paper and wood chips, but do not take logs, because sudden temperature changes may cause cracks in the solution. This will further lead to smoke or improper air movement.

Before starting the oven, it is necessary that it dry thoroughly. Usually this takes about a week.

Mixture for masonry

Everything can be done with your own hands. Then the price will be significantly lower. It is quite possible to use several compositions in masonry. What to choose is up to you.

So:

For bricklaying, clay-sand, cement mortar is used. For example, screenings instead of sand for the mixture are used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is used for one or several rows of masonry. If for the M400 cement grade sand is added ¼, then for the screed the screenings must be mixed in a proportion of 1/6;
It is a little more difficult to prepare a solution of sand and clay, because it will take much more time. In order for the lumps of clay to break, they must be soaked in water in the evening, and those that remain in the same state should be kneaded with your hands so that no small lumps remain;
The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - everything here depends on the degree of fat content of the solution (this is checked using a trowel). The consistency is considered normal when the solution slides off the trowel without any problems, leaving no traces, and in its thickness it should resemble mashed potatoes.

How to make a stove

Now let's look at how to make a small brick stove in detail. It has its own technology and procedure.

In order to properly build a stove yourself, you must follow the following recommendations:

Attention: Fire-resistant material must be used for the combustion part. It will also withstand coal burning. It is better to use a clay mixture as a solution. It is the most practical and durable.

We choose a suitable place for the mini-stove, and instead put roofing felt, film, glassine or hydrosol into it. The size of such material should be 78x53 centimeters;
You need to pour and level sand onto the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter);
On top of it we lay the first row of twelve bricks, which do not need to be fastened together. After this, we align all the bricks to the same level so that they are strictly horizontal;
A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can begin installing the blower door. It is extremely important that it is wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. We secure it with wire, after which you can safely move on to laying the next one;
Fireclay brick is used for the third row of the mini-stove, after which the grate is installed. It is mounted above the ashpit only when the third brick row is completely formed;
We make the following from bricks, but we lay them on edge; in the middle of the chimney it is necessary to lay supports for internal partitions. The back wall of the stove is laid with a small protrusion outward and without the use of clay - they are called knockout bricks;
After this we install the combustion door. Again, before you begin installing the door, you need to wrap it with cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is secured with wire and fixed for a while with several stones. The first one is placed at the back, and the second one is placed on top of the door;
Also, to ensure reliable fastening, a wire is inserted into the holes, twisted and the ends are laid in order;

The fifth row is made flat; here we make sure to check the outline of the previous row. But the sixth row is laid edgewise. Then we rub the walls of the large stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next stage;
On the 7th row we lay the brick flat. Next, we place a couple of bricks edgewise and proceed to the back wall;
When the time comes for the 8th row of the stove on your own, make sure that it overlaps the combustion door above which it will end. It is at this time that we install a beveled brick over the firebox so that the flame is directed to the center of the stove burner;
We lay out a soaked asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and the slab is completely sealed. Since cast iron and clay have different coefficients thermal expansion, then we do not lay the slab on clay. Afterwards you can move on to the ninth row, but here it needs to be shifted so that the doors are kept open;
When working with the following, you will need to form chimney, which will expand at the back. To make a stove of this type, there is no need for a mounted pipe that will expand at the top, since this type of pipe will lead to a change in the center of gravity. Exist various schemes chimneys. They are: horizontal, straight, countercurrent, combined, and so on. In our design, the stove should have a direct version;
When working with the next row, do not forget to insert a plug, which is sealed with a cord (it is advisable to additionally coat it with clay);
Thus, the pipes will be connected to the metal one. If the chimney goes to the side, then it must be covered with several rows of bricks;
After this, we remove the brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from dirt that has accumulated during construction work;
We whiten the stove. We protect the metal part of the stove itself and its walls with film. To prevent it from turning yellow over time, you need to add milk and a small amount of blue to the solution. Each piece of the stove must be processed in the most careful way, special attention is paid to the joints of bricks and cast iron surfaces;
Carefully seal the gaps between the first row and the floor. This is necessary so that the sand that was poured under the brick does not spill;
Afterwards, we nail a plinth along the edge of the building, which will protect the stove from sand spills. We nail it level and tightly to cover all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
As soon as you carry out the first fire with wood chips and paper, leave all the doors and burners in the open position for several days so that everything dries thoroughly.

A small brick stove for a summer house is made quite quickly and will last a long time. The main thing is to look at the photo and choose the option you want. The instructions will prevent you from making mistakes.

It’s not difficult to build a brick stove that is always ready to warm any home. You just need to learn some of the intricacies of building brick stoves and use the knowledge gained correctly.

What kind of brick oven can you install in your home and where is the best place to do it?

Based on functionality, all stoves are usually divided into several types. Cookers have a special cast iron panel on which you can heat water and cook food. Such stoves are most often installed in dachas and small private houses where people do not live in winter. Basically, cooking stove is capable of heating a small area, but its main task is not this, but cooking.

Heating units are intended exclusively for heating the home. They do not cook on them, since they do not have a cooking panel, which is why they usually have very compact sizes. Cooking and heating stoves are a combination of the first two types of brick stoves, which makes it possible to heat a large area and cook any food. Often such devices are equipped not only with a cast-iron panel, but also with a separate niche where you can dry fruits and vegetables, and a built-in oven.

Regardless of the type, any stove must be as fireproof as possible, not smoke during kindling and combustion, and also create comfortable living conditions in the house. To achieve this, you need to choose the right place in the home where you want to put the stove, guided by the following recommendations:

You cannot build a heating device near external wall residential building due to the fact that it will begin to cool down very quickly due to exposure to cold air from outside.
Place the stove in the middle of the room or next to the inner wall. It can also be built built into the wall. If the device is placed in the center of the room (this is done when the area of the home is large enough), it divides it into several functional parts– living room and kitchen, bedroom and dining room and so on. For small buildings, a stove built into the wall or mounted directly under it is more suitable.
To simplify the masonry, it is advisable to find a correctly drawn up ordering diagram for a specific type of stove.
If the stove is built between two rooms, it must be separated from the wall surfaces with materials with a high heat resistance.

Note that large heating devices (the number of bricks is more than 500) and with their own chimney should be installed in the house on a separate foundation. Moreover, it should not have a (mechanical) connection with the base of the building (this requirement must also be observed when the house and stove are being built together).

Making a foundation and choosing a brick to build a stove

If the stove is relatively small sizes built in an already used house with a slab concrete foundation, it is allowed to mount it directly on the existing foundation. You only need to lay roofing felt on the concrete floor.

When the flooring of a building is made of wood or the house is on a strip foundation, it will be necessary to prepare a separate foundation for the heating device.

You can do it yourself using this scheme:

We mark a place on the floor for the future brick stove.
We remove the marked part of the floor covering and dig a pit in the ground underneath it (its depth should be about half a meter).
At the bottom of the pit we place a layer of sand (about 10 cm) and on top - crushed stone (the thickness is the same), compact the resulting “pillow”.
We place a plank along the perimeter of the pit (it is raised about 11 cm above the level of the main floor covering).
We fill half of the hole under the stove foundation with a mixture of sand, crushed stone and cement, and wait for it to harden.
We fill the second half of the pit with a solution (after the previous composition in the pit has firmly set), which it is advisable to make more “thin” (add a little more water to it).

After this, it is necessary to carefully level the foundation using the rule and wait about a month until it hardens firmly. And at this time, you can choose and purchase bricks, remembering that the durability of the stove depends on its quality.

For masonry, fireproof, ceramic, fireclay and special oven bricks are used, as well as hand-molded products. All these materials should be selected according to their markings, which indicate their strength. A brick oven in a house should be constructed from special products of grades M150–M200, having:

uniform color;
straight edges with no chips or cracks;
geometrically correct shape;
dimensions 11.3x6.5 or 23x12.3 cm (it is advisable to buy bricks with exactly these parameters, since most ordering patterns are developed for them).

It is allowed to use fireclay bricks rather than stove bricks. But be prepared for the fact that a stove made of fireclay material will not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. On the outside, fireclay products are faced with ceramic bricks. This is a must. This finish is also recommended for heating structures constructed from special kiln brick.

Masonry stove mortars - what should they be?

Before you build the stove with your own hands, you should understand the compositions that will ensure reliable fixation of the bricks and the entire structure. Typically, masonry mortars based on sand and clay are used (white kaolin or fireclay marl for ordinary bricks, gray Cambrian or ground refractory clay for ceramic).

The components of the composition for laying the stove must be selected very carefully. For example, if you feel that there is any odor (unpleasant or pleasant) coming from it, do not take it. The aroma indicates the presence of organic matter in the raw material. This clay is not suitable for laying a stove. You can use any sand, the main thing is that there are no foreign impurities in it.

The proportions in a solution of clay and sand are determined experimentally by conducting special tests according to the following scheme:

pour 1 kg of clay with plain water and leave for 24 hours until the composition sours;
knead the clay until it becomes plasticine (adding water to the sour mixture);
divide the batch into 3–5 parts and add sand to different portions (from 10 to 100% by volume);
knead the solutions (as thoroughly as possible) and dry them for about 3.5 hours.

Then the samples must be carefully rolled out into 30–40 cm long “sausages” with a cross section of about 1.5 cm and wrapped around some round blank larger diameter. After this, wait for the compositions to dry (about half an hour). All that remains is to analyze the quality of the solutions.

If microscopic cracks have formed on the “sausage” or there are none at all, feel free to mix clay and sand in the proportions used for this test. With cracks no more than 2 mm deep, the solution can be used for laying those areas heating structure, which do not warm up above 280–300 °C. If the “sausages” are covered with tears and deep cracks, this means that there is too much sand in the prepared mixture. It is prohibited to use it to construct a furnace.

An even simpler option is to purchase from hardware store ready-made mixture for furnace work. If you don’t want to bother with creating the “ideal” mortar yourself, just buy it and start building a brick oven.

It is important to strictly adhere to the order scheme you have chosen for a specific model. furnace design, and also decide on the type of masonry. Common methods of installing bricks are masonry with empty joints and undercuts. In the latter case, there is no need to plaster the finished stove - the solution is present in all seams. But when performing work with empty seams, plastering the constructed stove is a mandatory operation.

In order to avoid making fatal mistakes, beginners in the construction of home heating structures are recommended to pre-lay bricks without using a sand-clay mixture. It is done in order using 5 mm thick slats. They are placed between rows of bricks. In fact, the slats “replace” the mortar.

Once you have built the entire oven dry and are sure that everything was done correctly, begin to disassemble the structure. If possible, number all the bricks and stack them separately. Then the process of finishing masonry will go much faster for you.

vertical seams (all without exception) must be filled with mortar to avoid the possibility of delamination of the structure;
each brick in the masonry must rest on at least two others;
the smallest seam width is 2 mm;
you need to bandage all rows vertically;
the thickness of the mortar for masonry is taken to be about 5–7 mm; after pressing it with bricks, this value decreases by 2–3 mm (it is permissible to lightly tap the rows with a rubber hammer);
when using ceramic bricks, they are dipped in ordinary water for a couple of seconds, due to which they stick to the mortar without any problems; there is no need to “bathe” fireclay products;
Before laying, bricks should be cleaned from dust and crumbs with a hair brush (this operation is called mopping).

Several Yet important points. The bricks are placed in their designated place one at a time. If a stone falls “by”, it must be removed, the clay-sand mixture removed from it, and then placed again. The mortar that was removed from the bricks is not used in the future.

We carry out the laying of the furnace ourselves using clear and simple technology

The first row of the heating structure is laid out without the use of mortar. Then all the bricks included in it are carefully leveled and the locations of all the doors and other elements of the furnace are determined. After this you need to set the position corner stones and place them on the solution.

We use a level to accurately align the horizontal position of the bricks, as well as a tape measure to check the diagonal and plan dimensions of the structure being built. Now you can lay the first row on the sand-clay mixture, starting work from the middle of the row.

The verticality of the entire contour of a brick stove during its construction is controlled by means of a simple device - plumb lines stretched on a string from the ceiling to the stove corners. The lines made in this way will become an excellent guide for masonry. Having completed the first row, we lay the second row according to a similar pattern:

put the stones in their place in the corners;
We check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line from the ceiling;
lay out the middle of the second row.

In the same way we lay the third and subsequent rows of brick. Do not forget to constantly check the stove construction plan (with the order). It is imperative to clean the outer and inner parts of the stones from excess mortar using a construction trowel.

Depending on the type of stove, choose the location of the firebox, ash pan, and ash pan. In a conventional heating device, the ash compartment is most often made after the third row of bricks, and the ash pan after the fifth.

When laying a stove, you should adhere to the important principle of tying the stones used, which involves covering the next row of each vertical seam with brick. It is desirable that the vertical connection be located clearly in the center of the brick of the next row. In practice, such an “idyll” is rarely achieved. In this case, try to ensure that the seam shift is a maximum of a quarter of the stone.

Do not forget to mount a special sheet between the floor and the first row of masonry (it is called the pre-furnace). It will hide the small gap that is always present in this place. As you can see, it is not so difficult to lay out a brick oven with your own hands.

Once upon a time, classic brick stoves for a home were a mandatory attribute and the only method of heating. Professional stove makers were in demand and respected. Today, there are many new means for heating premises that operate from different energy sources, from solid fuel to electricity. However, good stove makers remain in demand and the online request for “brick stoves for home drawings with instructions” remains frequent.

Some build stoves for a bathhouse, for a summer residence, or simply because their home is remote, which is why there is no alternative. Different types furnaces can perform heating function, on some models you can cook traditional dishes. Some are large in size, others are compact and quickly erected. Some are planned before the house is built, while others need to fit into an existing space. Stoves are ordered or made by hand in order to save money, others are built to fill the decor. In any case, all such equipment must be constructed from high-quality and suitable materials, in accordance with existing SNiP. You can find any drawings with instructions on the Internet, but you need to understand that building a stove for your home with your own hands will not be so easy.

Why does the brick kiln remain competitive, more and more being built, with so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating that are much more convenient to use, and according to manufacturers, they have greater efficiency (coefficient of performance). But why are brick ones still in demand in some areas or buildings? One of the reasons is that a brick stove “breathes.”

This means that when the furnace warms up, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, moisture is absorbed back. Thanks to this, it maintains the normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that “a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house.”

The ability of a brick oven to “breathe” not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even at a non-domestic level. When calculating a house's thermal engineering, temperature indicators during the heating season are set within 18-20 Celsius. Air humidity should be optimal for health. Home oven provides optimal humidity air, at a warm-up temperature of about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort; clothes and bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive air humidity may be felt.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters, the temperature should be even higher (since they greatly dry out the air). It turns out that a brick kiln with an efficiency rate of about 50% will be more profitable, in terms of savings, than modern systems with rates of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the loss of heat in the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

Selecting oven surface size

Before you begin construction, you must select the type and model future design. The main criteria for selection will not be its appearance and ease of construction, but heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a location for its placement, you should know that the side surfaces of the furnace have the greatest heat transfer. This is a determining factor when choosing a location.

Different models have different shapes:

Rectangular;
In the form of the letter T;
With a bed or kitchen equipment for cooking.

They can serve as a heating device for living rooms, or be a space divider.

For a small home area, you should not choose too massive structures, even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and generate too much heat. To heat the entire furnace you need a lot of fuel, and the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove relative to the living rooms is also important, and the insulation of the entire house is also a criterion.

Table of stove sizes, taking into account the area of the room

The structure of a stove for the home, stoves for the home of the classical design

The oven consists of 3 main parts. The body of the stove, the foundation and the chimney leading to the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

Foundations - foundation;
Waterproofing material;
Shantsy. They are holes, they are made to create heating in the lower part of the room. They serve as “legs” in the structure;
Blower;
The opening of the air channel helps to warm up the room over the entire height;
Blower door;
Grate grate;
Kindling door;
Furnace part;
Vault of the combustion part;
“Hailo” (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with the nozzle is called the hailo);
Door for cleaning;
Strangler Pass;
Dushnik;
Valves that regulate the direction of travel;
Convector channel;
A valve that closes the chimney after heating the stove. Close it after heating so that the oven does not cool down.
Exhaust door;
Chimney hole;
Cover (top of the furnace);
Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
Overlap;
Chimney on the roof (otter or fluff).

Foundation

The foundation for the stove is made separately from the general foundation of the house. Use ordinary reinforced concrete strip foundation. Insulation is laid on it in several layers of roofing material, and on top of them is a sheet of asbestos. The asbestos is covered with an iron sheet (preferably cast iron, but this is very expensive; ordinary roofing metal will do), and the top is covered with felt. The felt bedding is pre-moistened, laid on the foundation and allowed to dry. Only after this do they begin laying. The bedding itself is needed to ensure that the foundation does not absorb all the thermal energy of the furnace. In simple words“so that the heat doesn’t go into the ground.”

Masonry base

The base of the masonry is made in oblique shading from simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The firebox is made of red ceramic bricks, in combination with fireproof (fireclay) material. A clay mixture with sand (sometimes with the addition of fireclay) is used.

A sheet of metal and asbestos is placed in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the stoves. Takeaway metal sheet not less than 250 mm. The edges are tucked in, pushing them towards the floor.

Unlike cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries out rather than setting. Therefore, with constant exposure to moisture (especially in winter period), the solution gets wet. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made rounded. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (lower transition). It is much easier to remove soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

It is laid out from red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such bricks are cheaper than fireclay bricks, and the mortar is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). The cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly in the event of a soot fire, and thus transfers less heat load to the ceiling.

The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions and is a side for drainage of precipitation. The draft in the furnace will depend on the height of the pipe.

Place for a stove in the house

It will depend on where the stove is installed effective work. The best location would be the intersection of all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the exit, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from the outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is needed for correct operation and full cleaning capabilities.
The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, since its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
The location should be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This needs to be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the stove.
There must be a fire-resistant floor in front of the firebox door. (sheet metal or ceramic tile), to prevent accidental fires.

Equipment and building materials for building a stove with your own hands

Brick

There are sources on the Internet that claim that bricks for stoves and fireproof bricks are one and the same. In fact, they only have linear dimensions in common. Dimensions of a regular single building bricks are 250 by 125 by 65 mm, and a standard stove has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes 230 by 114 by 65 mm is found. In the construction of the furnace, special high-quality brick of grade 150 is used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. It would be possible to build an entire furnace from it, but it cools quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used to lay the furnace channels in the combustion chamber. It can withstand high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish stoves or sauna stoves. It can withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens this temperature does not exist. It is valued for other qualities - the ability to retain heat for a long time. It makes no sense to build the entire body of the furnace out of it, since it is very expensive and has weak strength.

To distinguish high-quality fireclay from low-quality one, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since fireclay can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fine grain of the brick. Another way checks - check to the sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be clear and clear, not dull. The last way to determine the quality of a material is radical. They break the brick in half and look at the break. High-quality fireclay is broken into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive fireclay, it is sometimes used in furnace construction. clinker brick. It is just like red ceramic, but it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

White silicate is not suitable for any parts. It is not resistant to thermal stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

Medium-fraction quarry sand is used as sand in the cement-sand mortar. It is sifted through a sieve to remove large fractions and various organic inclusions. The presence of additional inclusions in this case is very important. All organic impurities will burn from heat, which will cause the masonry to crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

To lay the stove you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

Cement;
Lime;
Clays;
Chamotte.

Characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap in price. Clay can be easily found on almost any plot of land after cleaning it first. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. This mixture dries out when exposed to high temperature, but gets wet when exposed to moisture. The furnace masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But you can’t lay a foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of fireclay is used in the combustion chambers. This solution can withstand the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is quite strong, but can only withstand 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-lime is even more durable than ordinary lime, but fire resistance is reduced even more. Used in the foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for laying a chimney. He has best performance strength and resistance to precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not allow smoke and digging into the room and will provide good draft for the firebox.

Examples of brick stove projects

Stove for a summer residence

Medium sizes country house are about 15-20 sq. m. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove with dimensions of 2 meters by 3 and a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the combustion part is made of refractory brick, and the entire body is built of red ceramic.

The figure shows a sectional view of the furnace design

This simple option can be easily made by every beginner out of brick with his own hands, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with order, order instructions

Despite its small dimensions and light weight, it still requires the construction of a separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm, while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the drawing if you do not have your own experience.

For such a stove, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Quantity of material:

You will need about 210 pieces of regular bricks, about 75 pieces of fireclay bricks. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cubic meters m. One grate, door for combustion chamber, ash chamber and cleaning room. Two smoke valves. Sheet of metal for the foundation. For waterproofing, about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, since there will be a certain percentage of broken bricks.

Russian stove

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. She has a beautiful appearance. You can cook food on such a stove and its design includes a bench. The masonry and construction schemes are quite simple. Its main disadvantage is its design feature, due to which it only heats the upper part of the room. But in our country, it is still popular.

What it consists of:

A) heated part;
B) niche;
B) pole;
D) forge;
D) shower part;
E) shield;
G) valve;
H) chimney pipe;
I) Repainting the furnace.

Large, small and medium furnaces are built according to their size. Let's consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Necessary materials:

Red bricks, about 1620 pieces. The clay solution will take about 1000 liters. Made of steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row No. 1 is laid out from solid ceramic bricks, on mortar with the addition of cement. The formation of the furnace part occurs;

Row No. 2 to No. 4 a well is laid out. All seams are tied. On the one hand, they leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the oven;

Row No. 8 to No. 10 a castle for the vault is being erected;

Row No. 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the oven;

Row No. 12 is laid out “under”. It is made from special bricks;

Row No. 13 is the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Rows No. 14 to 16 are done in the same way as the previous one;

Row No. 17 installs the arches of the mouths;

Row No. 18 laying the furnace walls;

Row No. 19 vault walls;

Row No. 20, using half bricks, narrow the hole above the pole;

Row No. 21 aligns the walls;

Row No. 22 is the stage of leveling and reducing the front pipe part;

Row No. 23 lay out the samovar;

Rows No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view valves;

Row No. 32 chimney laying. In a Russian stove, the chimney is made of 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before you start laying stoves, it’s worth trying to lay out at least one without mortar to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make a stove with their own hands.

Video

In this video you can see the order of the heating stove: