Making a septic tank from barrels with your own hands. Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels - inexpensive sewerage for a country dwelling Septic tank from a 200 liter barrel

Making a septic tank with your own hands from barrels is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to ensure cleaning Wastewater. Its manufacture does not require much time, and the materials are available. At the same time, a treatment plant of this type is quite effective and gives high quality removal of impurities.

In septic tanks of this type, wastewater is cleaned mainly by mechanical methods:

Partial clarification during the precipitation of the largest particles of impurities occurs mainly in the first of three series-connected containers.
Smaller inclusions settle in the second tank, where water flows from the top of the first barrel.
At the third barrel, the “native” bottom is usually removed, and when installing a septic tank in the lower part, sand, gravel or expanded clay is backfilled. This material acts as a filter.

Passing through the ground will achieve optimal results, but this method is not suitable for areas with groundwater close to the surface. To ensure sanitary safety in such cases, drainage of treated effluents through filtration fields is organized. Such structures are perforated pipes insulated with geotextile, which exit the third barrel at an angle of 45° to each other and are located in trenches parallel to the surface.

The use of septic tanks from barrels

It is advisable to build a septic tank in the country with your own hands from barrels in the following cases:

as a temporary structure at the stage of building a house before the sewer system is organized,
with a minimum number of drains, typical for periodic visits suburban area without permanent residence.

Such requirements are due to the small volume of tanks. The capacity of large barrels is usually 250 liters. therefore, the volume of the septic tank from the three tanks will be 750 liters. At the same time, according to the conditions of sanitary standards, the septic tank must contain three daily "portions".

It is advisable to build a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands also as a separate treatment plant, for example, for shower or bath.

The advantages of such structures are:

low cost (used containers are often used),
simplicity of device and installation,
smaller volume earthworks due to the small volume of tanks.

Pros and cons of the materials used

Do-it-yourself sewerage in the country house from a barrel can be arranged using plastic or metal containers. Usually use the most affordable option However, if there is a choice, the pros and cons of each option should be taken into account before making a decision.

Advantages:

light weight, easy to transport and install,
ease of making holes for pipes,
absolute water resistance, eliminating the possibility of soil contamination,
resistance to corrosion from water or aggressive substances that may be contained in detergents.

Flaws:

due to their small mass, plastic barrels require reliable fastening to the foundation in order to prevent them from floating up during a flood, which can lead to destruction sewer system,
due to the plasticity of the material, there is a danger of squeezing the soil reservoirs in the cold season.

iron barrels

Advantages of a septic tank metal barrels:

high strength,
structural rigidity,
water resistance provided the integrity of the walls and bottom.

Flaws:

instability to corrosion, requiring the implementation of a waterproofing coating and periodic checks of its condition,
a slightly more complex hole making process requiring the use of power tools.

It should be noted that more often homemade septic tank from barrels are performed using plastic containers.

Materials and tools

Before you make a septic tank from a barrel, in order to avoid unplanned interruptions during the work, it is better to prepare everything you need in advance.

Main components:

metal or plastic barrels,
sewer pipes (most often used with a diameter of 110 mm), the total length of which is 1-2 meters longer than the length of the main,
tees corresponding to the pipe diameter,
sewer covers for barrels
pipes for ventilation (in some cases, sewer pipes can be used),
heads for ventilation (purchased or self-made protective canopies),
corner fittings,
flanges, couplings.

Mounting materials:

glue for PVC (if plastic containers are used),
sealant,
cement,
sand,
rubble,
fastening cables or clamps.

Tools:

Bulgarian,
shovel,
electric mixer.

Installation of a septic tank

Do-it-yourself sewerage from barrels requires certain preparatory work before installation. We will consider the option of making a septic tank from three barrels, but it remains the same for a septic tank from two tanks.

Technological holes are made in each barrel.

In each of their barrels, in addition, holes are made at the upper end (or lids, which are often supplied with tanks for ease of cleaning) for ventilation pipes.

In each tank, the inlet is located 10 cm above the outlet.

Important: When making a septic tank from iron barrels with your own hands, metal barrels for sewage are coated with an anti-corrosion compound from the inside and outside.

The pit for the septic tank breaks out of the barrels in such a way that when installed on each side of any tank there is a gap of 25 cm. The bottom of the pit is covered with rubble or a sand cushion is arranged.

For pouring the foundation, a stepped formwork is installed. When placing barrels with a gradual decrease in level (each is 10 cm below the previous one), the volume of the tanks will be fully used, which is very important with a small capacity of this type of septic tank. If the removal of the purified liquid is provided through the bottom filter of the third barrel, the last tank is installed directly on the rubble, without a foundation.
After pouring the foundation at the stage of solidification of the solution, rings or hooks are installed in it, to which clamps will cling to fix the containers. Just in case, it is better to “anchor” not only plastic, but also iron tanks.

If the drainage will be carried out through the filtration field, then trenches for laying corrugated pipes can be dug at this stage.

After the foundation has gained strength, you can begin to install and fasten the tanks, install pipes and seal the joints at their entrance. Experts recommend not using silicone for these purposes, preferring other types of sealants, such as epoxy.

The trenches of the filtration field are covered with geotextile, and after laying the perforated pipes, the material is wrapped with overlapping edges.

A fully assembled septic tank from barrels is covered with soil. It is better to fill plastic containers with water at this time to avoid deformation. In the process of backfilling, the soil is periodically gently tamped.

In a separate article of the site presented with it, it will be easier to create a treatment plant, but completely do without loading equipment still won't work.

Installation of a sewer system for a private house. Site selection, internal and external communications.

Types of plastic drainage wells are presented. Scope of application and installation.

Nuances of construction

When mounting septic tanks from barrels in the country with your own hands, you should take into account some of the nuances and rules:

Rules for choosing the volume and installation location of septic tanks

The daily rate of water consumption is 200 liters per person, and the septic tank must contain drains. Collected within 72 hours or 3 days. Thus, subject to permanent residence, a three-chamber septic tank from 250-liter barrels is only suitable for one person. Therefore, septic tanks of this type are used only for temporary residence or wastewater treatment from one point (for example, from a bathhouse). In most cases, they try in some way to increase the possibility of septic tanks, therefore, among the treatment facilities from barrels, there are practically no two-chamber options (they have too little volume).

It is important to observe sanitary requirements regarding the permissible distances from the septic tank to certain objects. For example, the distance from the source drinking water must be at least 50 meters. Garden plants and fruit trees should be located at least 3 meters from the treatment plant. The distance to the road is at least 5 meters.

Building a house is a laborious and difficult task. If you want to have a full-fledged autonomous sewage system, you need to equip a septic tank for drains and waste, and you can make it from plastic barrels with a volume of 200 liters each. Metal containers will not work, they rust and deteriorate quickly.

It should be recalled that such a septic tank purifies polluted water; it will not be possible to do without pumping.

The advantages of a do-it-yourself septic tank

The stores sell already assembled septic tanks from different manufacturers. But their functions are identical homemade devices. Having decided to equip a septic tank with your own hands for a private house, you get the opportunity to appreciate the important advantages:

cheapness of the material;
simplicity and ease of installation - no special skills and knowledge are needed.

Of the minuses, experts call the limited volume of chambers, so the owner of the cottage will have to pump out water quite often. But it's better than drawing it from a well, even with a pump. Most often, a septic tank is equipped where the drains are minimal.

For which premises is a septic tank made of plastic barrels suitable?

Country houses used for temporary recreation during the summer season.

Baths that do not have a jacuzzi, a pool and a toilet.

Construction buildings and outbuildings to increase the comfort of use.

Where to install a septic tank

Focus on long distance from a well or other source clean water- according to the norms, sewerage should not pass nearby, otherwise the quality of the water will suffer. Also step back 5 m or more from the foundation of the house and provide 1 m as a distance from other buildings in the summer cottage. Consider the option of pumping out waste - if this is a special machine, provide a convenient access to the septic tank under construction.

What is the simplest and at the same time effective scheme for arranging a septic tank?

The product consists of 2 or 3 barrels, one of which has no bottom, due to which the component functions as a filter part.

Each subsequent barrel is placed 10 cm lower than the previous one.

The barrels are interconnected by a pipeline. The pipe that enters the septic tank is located 10 cm above the outgoing channel.

Barrels acting as a sump are placed on a sand cushion, the layer thickness is 10 cm.

In order for the water to be purified in the best way, provide for a barrel without a bottom a pillow of rubble 30 cm and sand 50 cm.

A high level of groundwater obliges to mount a filtration field instead of a filter well.

What materials are needed to create a septic tank with your own hands

Based on the received drawings of the septic tank, we determine the materials that will be needed for the construction of the product for the country house:

Two barrels with a capacity of 200-250 liters. If a filter well is provided, prepare another barrel by cutting out the bottom. Iron should not be abandoned only if the septic tank is temporary - metal containers will last no longer than a couple of months.

Crushed stone with small particles of 1.8-3.5 cm each.

Geotextile.

Pipeline for laying sewerage, the diameter of one pipe is 110 mm.

Drainage pipes used in the construction of filtration fields.

Corners that combine parts of the pipeline.

Preparing barrels for installation

First, prepare plastic barrels for work. Make recesses for incoming and outgoing pipes. In one barrel, the hole is made at a step of 20 cm from the upper base of the barrel. The inlet recess extends to opposite side, with a downward shift of 10 cm.

In the first barrel, provide a hole for ventilation. It is desirable that the cover be removed, because this camera will take over large quantity solid waste, so it needs constant cleaning.

Now process the second barrel. Step back from the top cover 20 cm and make a hole for the inlet channel. The exit is placed on the other side, focusing on 10 cm above the recess inlet pipe. If the barrels are connected to drainage, experts recommend making two holes at an angle of 45 degrees to each other.

How to install a septic tank with your own hands

To mount a septic tank, it is necessary to prepare a foundation pit. Focus on a value exceeding the volume of the barrels, the drawings will help determine the size. The gap between the plane of the barrels and the sides of the pit is 25 cm around the entire perimeter.

What other nuances need to be considered when creating a pit for a septic tank

To make the bottom dense, lay out a sand cushion, the layer thickness should be 10 cm.

Fix the result concrete mortar. Barrels require reliable fixation with embedded metal loops. If the septic tank is planned to be used on an ongoing basis, builders advise powerful fasteners using bandage belts located on a concrete base. The craftsman's shortsightedness can cause the barrels to float to the surface as soon as the time of the spring flood comes. Then the sewer will have to say goodbye.

Now install the barrels by bringing the pipeline. To protect the product from damage, a mass of sand and dry cement is poured, the layer thickness is 30 cm. Tamp it down and fill it up again. At this time, fill the container with water - such a simple trick will avoid deformation of the walls. Use waterproofing agents to seal the joints.

Hosts country houses I don’t want to give up the usual city amenities and have to equip the sewer system on my site on my own. Often it is a simple cesspool, made from a barrel or otherwise, but if there is running water and households actively use plumbing fixtures, its capabilities will clearly not be enough.

Scheme country sewerage includes a collector receiving wastewater, internal and external pipeline networks. Depending on the financial opportunities, the collector is built of bricks, concrete rings, large in size car tires, eurocubes or barrels of 200 l.

Sewerage scheme with a barrel as a septic tank

Scheme and rules for organizing sewerage with a septic tank in the country

It is quite possible to equip a septic tank for giving with your own hands. Before starting work, a detailed diagram sewer facilities. Drawings can be seen in the photo. The location must be marked on the diagram. storage capacity, internal and external wiring of the pipeline network. building codes and the rules determine the required angle of inclination of the pipes, the features of the collector device and other parameters. Please note that simply draining sewage into a pit without pumping pollutes the soil and nearby aquifers.

Requirements for the placement of treatment facilities at their summer cottage

Treatment facilities in a summer cottage should be located no closer than thirty meters from water bodies, wells and artesian wells. To bad smell did not penetrate into residential premises, the minimum distance of the septic tank from the house is five meters. This distance should not be greatly extended either, since this significantly increases the cost of laying an external sewer network.

Minimum distances from a septic tank to various facilities

Care must be taken to ensure that the unpleasant smell does not disturb the neighbors, and the treatment plant should not be located too close to the boundaries of the site. Fruit trees and other green spaces with a developed root system should be at least three meters away.

Types of country sewerage

The easiest way to do it yourself for a private house and a summer house is to make an ordinary cesspool, into which a simple drain of waste will be carried out. In doing so, it will pollute the environment. To prevent unpleasant consequences a sealed container is installed in the cesspool.

The simplest cesspool from a barrel

This is a more acceptable way of arranging a waste disposal system, but in this case, frequent "visits" of the sewer truck are necessary. More modern look the country sewerage is a septic tank in which the liquid fraction of the waste settles and, after filtration, is removed from the collector. The use of bacteria that decompose organic matter helps to make a septic tank without pumping.

Sealed cesspool

To equip a cesspool, they dig a pit at least two meters deep. With a complex relief of the site, it is located at the lowest level.

Sealed drain hole Convenient for small volumes

The walls of the tank are laid out brickwork or they install ready-made concrete rings, tires from the Kirovets tractor, barrels with a volume of two hundred liters and so on on top of each other. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the bottom of the tank, all butt joints are securely sealed to prevent leakage of wastewater.

Filter well

The filter well is equipped in the same way as a sealed cesspool, only instead of waterproofing, gravel or crushed stone with sand is made at the bottom of the mine. It forms a filter layer, seeping through which, liquid fractions wastes get rid of contaminants before penetrating into the soil.

The device of the filter well from a plastic barrel

This design of the treatment plant makes it possible to pump out waste from the reservoir much less frequently, since it is filled only with their solid fragments. The quality of wastewater treatment is improved if not one, but several filter wells are installed, interconnected by overflow pipes.

Applying a filter field

The use of a filtration field helps to make a septic tank without pumping out. Its device requires the presence on the site free space large area.

Small filtration field device

The filtration field is a platform located underground, in which the sedimentation and purification of wastewater that has passed through the sewer collector takes place. From there, they are discharged through perforated pipes into the drainage system.

Gutter use

It is good if a gutter lies near the storage sewer tank. In this case, the drains that have passed through the collector can be directed directly into it. To do this, they dig a hole near the canal, filling it with crushed stone or gravel as a filter layer. Waste water is sent there, which, after passing the filter, enters the gutter.

Material options for a septic tank in the country

Depending on financial capabilities, a septic tank in the country is made from the most various materials. With virtually no material costs, you can get decommissioned large-diameter tires at the nearest tire fitting workshop or at a car company.

An example of organizing a two-chamber septic tank from tires

Tires from the Kirovets tractor are well suited. They are stacked on top of each other in a dug pit. A septic tank made of ready-made concrete rings is equipped even faster and more reliably. The sewage receiver can be laid out with brickwork. Also used are barrels of large volume and the so-called eurocubes, which are sealed plastic containers.

When installed, they are concreted on the sides, as they are light in weight and can move when the groundwater level rises.

Installation depth of the septic tank and pipe laying

The installation depth of the septic tank and the laying of the sewer pipe directly depends on the level of soil freezing in a particular region. If sewage freezes in the sewer system, it will burst the pipes, and in the spring everything will have to start over.

A sewer pipe used only in summer can not be buried

The optimal volume of a septic tank in the country

The required volume of a septic tank in the country depends on the number of people permanently residing in it. It is believed that one person consumes up to two hundred liters of water per day. Multiplying this figure by the number of households and increasing the resulting value by approximately twenty percent, we obtain the optimal amount of storage capacity.

Of course, in the conditions of a summer residence, that is, without the use of a shower and a bath, this parameter will be much less.

Arrangement of a simple cesspool from a 200 l barrel

A cesspool from a 200 l barrel is easily made by hand. For its arrangement it is better to choose plastic containers. Compared with metal products they have the following advantages:

excellent resistance to aggressive chemical environments;
longer service life;
simplified installation due to low weight;
no need for anti-corrosion treatment;
high levels of tightness.

A plastic barrel as a cesspool can last a long time

When buried in the ground, plastic containers should be securely fastened with cables pulled to concrete slab installed as the base of the structure. Otherwise, a homemade septic tank can “float” to the surface at the most inconvenient moment. The plastic barrels installed in the pit should be filled very carefully so as not to damage them.

Do-it-yourself assembly and connection of a septic tank from plastic barrels

Do-it-yourself assembly and connection of a septic tank from plastic barrels is not particularly difficult. First, a pit is dug to bury the tanks in the ground. For better cleaning wastewater, two plastic containers with a volume of at least two hundred liters each should be installed. They are connected to each other with an overflow pipe.

Two-chamber septic tank with overflow from plastic barrels - practical option

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The following video is carefully selected and will certainly help the perception of the foregoing.

Purchase of a ready-made treatment plant for autonomous sewerage- this is the right decision from a technical point of view. However, it is not always justified in terms of price. Few dacha owners decide to purchase an expensive deep cleaning station if living in country house is seasonal and most time the sewer system is idle. In this case, it is better to apply non-standard approach- for example, to make a septic tank from barrels. Such a design will be much cheaper, and its efficiency will be sufficient to meet domestic needs.

Choose a place to stay sewer sump required subject to certain rules:

The distance to a water source (well, well) and a natural reservoir should not be less than 30 m.
To ensure the possibility of removing silt from the septic tank by means of a sewage machine, the barrel should not be buried too far from the road. The optimal distance is 5 m.
To avoid conflict with neighbors, the sump must be at least 3 m from the fence.

The layout of the septic tank at their summer cottage

Of course, the area of the site does not always allow you to fulfill all the requirements in strict accordance. However, if you choose priorities, first of all, you should maintain the correct distance to the well or well. The fact is that the removal of clarified water from a sewer barrel, as a rule, is carried out into the ground. Therefore, in order to prevent pollution of the aquifer, which is a source of drinking water, it is desirable to place these objects from each other at the maximum possible distance.

Calculation of the barrel volume

The volume of a barrel for a septic tank is calculated in exactly the same way as the volume of any other local treatment plant. It is necessary to take the rate of water consumption per person (according to SNiP - 200 l / day), multiply by the number of residents and additionally multiply by 3 (this is how many days the water in the septic tank should settle). The result is the following formula:

V = (200 xn) x 3.

That is, for a family of 4 people, a 2.4 cubic capacity is required. At the same time, it should be noted that in reality it is very rare for one person to consume 200 liters of water per day. In the case of economical consumption, this figure can be halved and, accordingly, a smaller tank can be used.

Interesting to know. For a small change house in the country, a septic tank is sometimes made from two or three 200-liter barrels. Such a system will not be able to provide a full-fledged work of the sewerage system, however, such a volume may be enough for a country lifestyle.

The size of the barrel is selected taking into account the peculiarities of the operation of the sewer system

Choice of material: metal or plastic

In order to save money, very often a septic tank in a country house is made from barrels that previously performed a different function. For example, they could be used to store grain, sand, cement and other bulk substances. The container can be metal or plastic, the main thing is its tightness.

If, nevertheless, the question arose of buying a barrel, then it is better to give preference to plastic. And that's why:

wider range on the market;
resistance to corrosion and aggressive effects of effluents;
absolute tightness over a long period of operation;
installation without the involvement of lifting equipment due to low weight.

To be completely objective, it should be clarified that the last point is only partly an advantage. A small mass of plastic makes it necessary to attach the container to concrete base for leveling the buoyant effect of groundwater. In this regard, a septic tank made of iron barrels is considered more preferable, since it does not need anchoring.

Any barrel that meets the tightness requirements can be used for a sewer sump.

Arrangement of a septic tank from barrels with your own hands

To ensure normal wastewater treatment, it is desirable to use two chambers in the septic tank: in the first, heavy substances settle to the bottom, and in the second, clarified water settles before being discharged into the ground.

Important. Single chamber septic tanks cesspools) very often cannot cope with a large volume of wastewater, which increases the frequency of calling a sewage truck.

Below we consider an example of arranging a septic tank from two plastic barrels with our own hands. This instruction can be considered universal, since most of the points are applicable to the installation of metal containers.

Mounting diagram

The design of such a treatment plant is not particularly complex. The barrels are sequentially connected to each other by means of an overflow pipe, while the second container is located 10-20 cm deeper than the first. Holes are cut in each tank for connecting sewer pipes and ventilation outlet. It is important to observe the correct position of the inlet and outlet relative to each other: the inlet should be placed 10 cm above the outlet.

Wiring diagram septic tank of two barrels

Clarified water can be drained into a filter well or a filtration field can be used. The well is used at a low level of groundwater and good permeability of the soil. For its installation, a bottomless barrel is used, in the lower part of which a 30-cm gravel pad is made.

The filtration field has a larger capture area, due to which water is drained even in conditions of low soil throughput. In this case, water is discharged from the second chamber of the septic tank into a drainage pipe, which is located in a layer of gravel or crushed stone.

Quantity drainage pipes in the filtration field directly depends on the volume of wastewater

List of materials

To complete the work, you will need the following materials:

two barrels with a volume of 250-1000 liters (depending on the number of drains);
sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm for outdoor installation ( Orange color);
corners and tees for connecting pipes;
glue and sealant for PVC;
rubble fine fraction(2-3.5 cm);
cement;
sand.

A set of tools for installing a septic tank from plastic barrels is standard: a shovel, a rake, a level, a jigsaw and a container for mixing the solution.

Stages of work

In barrels, using a jigsaw, holes are cut for sewer pipes and a ventilation riser. For the inlet, 20 cm recede from the upper edge, and for the outlet 30 cm. The gaps formed between the holes and pipes are filled with sealant.

Connections of elements of a homemade septic tank from plastic barrels

The size of the pit is calculated in such a way that 20-30 cm remains between the soil and the wall of the tank. The walls of the pit are leveled, and the bottom is rammed.

Note. The depth of the pit depends on the length of the sewer pipe coming from the house, which is laid with a slope of 20 cm per 1 m. In this case, the bottom of the pit should not be lower than 3 m, since this will significantly complicate the work of the sewers.

Before installing the barrels, the bottom of the pit is poured with a layer of concrete, in which several lugs or pins should be provided for anchoring the septic tank.

The tank is fixed with a strong cable or straps.

In order for the walls of the septic tank to be protected from seasonal soil movements, the gap between the barrels and the soil is filled with a sand-cement mixture. To prevent deformation of the drums as a result of the pressure created by the backfill, they are pre-filled with water.

Advice. In the case of installing a septic tank from thick-walled metal barrels, concrete pouring can be omitted. However, the metal must first be treated with an anti-corrosion material.

In the immediate vicinity of the septic tank, a pit is dug for a filter well or a filtration field is made to drain purified water into the ground.

When all installation work completed, the barrels are covered with a layer of soil. If desired, this place can be hidden from others with the help of grass and other vegetation, leaving only inspection hatches and ventilation on the surface.

Septic tank as an element landscape design

After completing all the points in this instruction, you can equip a simple septic tank from plastic or metal barrels with your own hands. For the installation of more complex treatment facilities, it is better to use the services of professionals.

The toilet in the country today no longer seems to be something unthinkable. In any hardware store you can find everything you need to organize a pressurized water supply system from a well, a river, or, in extreme cases, even from special containers for collecting rainwater. Inexpensive pumping station, plastic pipelines, budget plumbing, septic tank - and your village life will never be the same :)

However, the problem of wastewater disposal keeps many from building a full-fledged “city” toilet in the country. The cost of automatic treatment plants, concrete or plastic septic tanks, with delivery and installation amounts to tens or even hundreds of thousands of rubles. Not everyone will dare to build a traditional septic tank from concrete rings on their own, with digging a huge pit, filling filtration fields with crushed stone and cement work.

However, for seasonal residence for families of 3-4 people, a home-made septic tank made of plastic barrels, the project of which was proposed by Forumhouse participant Andryukha96, is quite suitable

General view of the building

Barrels can be placed in a pit with reinforced walls, or simply buried in the ground. If in the spring in your area high level groundwater, it is worth considering that the barrels are not flooded, that they are not squeezed out of the ground and that the contents do not spread over the entire area. Options for solving the problem: attach the barrels to a concrete base (if any), sprinkle the barrels around the perimeter with a 1: 5 cement-sand mixture, securely seal all connections (at least during the spring flood).

Here are some questions and comments from forumhouse barrel septic project discussion participants:

Will this amount of septic tank be enough?

If you use it to the fullest (shower, toilet, sink, etc.), then 200 liters per person per day are accepted for calculation.
If only the toilet, then 25 liters per person per day
The septic tank must be at least 3 daily water consumption.

However (from the photographs), it turns out that the second chamber-barrel "works" only for half the volume (about 100 liters), and the third, in general, for a quarter. Total overall volume the septic tank is equal to 200+100+50 = 350 liters... It seems to me that this is really not enough for peace of mind).

It turns out about 150 liters * 3 = 450 in one barrel. According to my calculations, it’s enough for three (only the toilet is hooked up).

I have an analogue. Three children and two adults year-round. It has been working for 1 year and 10 months. Has not been pumped out yet. In addition, 10 meters of a leaky pipe in the ground.

How does it all work?

The left barrel is the last one! All water from it is pumped out by a drainage pump into a pit on the street (or a filtration well / filtration field - according to the circumstances). And the first barrel on the right goes there from the toilet bowl, everything in it floats that does not sink, and sinks what turned into silt.

To speed up biological processing, constant aeration is carried out in the first barrel aquarium compressor(you can also use something more productive - then the design will begin to strongly resemble a full-fledged automatic treatment plant, such as Unilos Astra). It will also be useful to periodically add bacterial cultures through the toilet (there are a large selection in stores).

When summer comes, I will insert the pump into the first barrel and throw the end of the hose into the garden, clean the bottom of the silt and then return everything to its place.

you need a pump or a drainage pump with a float (price 1,500-2,500) or make a float for the baby so as not to run around with the pump all the time!

How to seal connections?

And something seems to me that the places where the pipes enter the barrels are a weak point.

I think a regular rubber seal for the cast-iron-plastic transition will do.

To seal the joints, I used a special glue for plastic (comes in a tube) and then a moisture-resistant ship sealant. Wait a day and you're done.

Glued with a hot glue gun.

Not certainly in that way. Glued with a special nozzle on building hair dryer with a rod.
The main material of the rod. There are also polypropylene and polyethylene.

Is it possible to connect a barrel with a cube with a corrugation? In which case, the walking of the soil compensates.

If close to your suburban area there are no centralized sewerage and water supply networks, then for comfortable living in the house it is necessary to build an autonomous water supply and a local treatment plant - a septic tank. Today we will talk about septic tanks. Thanks to them, wastewater will be disposed of in accordance with sanitary standards without harming the environment. It is easier and cheaper to make a home-made treatment plant from improvised materials, for example, a septic tank from barrels. The design can be designed for any volume of drains, depending on the number of people living in the house. In our article you will find a description of the nuances of manufacturing cleaning device from this material, and the video at the end of the article will help you more clearly understand the process.

A septic tank from a barrel can be made with your own hands from different materials. The barrel can be plastic or metal. But the latter option is not the best, since the metal quickly corrodes in conditions of constant humidity, so the design will turn out to be short-lived. It is better to make a septic tank for a small dacha from polymer containers with a volume of 200-250 liters. If many residents live in your dacha or the building can be used year-round, then the volume of containers should be even larger.

Options independent construction in the country, there may be a lot of water supply and sewerage. So, water supply can be equipped from a well or a well, and the choice of a septic tank design depends on the characteristics of the effluents, the hydrogeological conditions at the site and the required quality of wastewater treatment. A septic tank from barrels can be:

Single chamber. This homemade septic tank, in fact, is an ordinary cesspool. It can be with or without a bottom, depending on the type of soil and the level of standing groundwater. Waste water from the sewerage system enters the tank, where it is either pumped out by sewers as it accumulates, or filtered into the ground through a special layer of gravel and crushed stone at the bottom. Such a septic tank is suitable for a shower or bath without a toilet. The thing is that this septic tank will not harm the environment, only if fecal sewage does not get into it.

Important: constructions without a bottom can only be used on sandy soils with good absorbency. On the clay soils drains with the help of a drainage pump after settling are pumped into a filtration well.

Two-chamber. A septic tank of two containers is more perfect. For a small cottage, two barrels of 200 liters are enough. Drains immediately from the sewer enter the first chamber, where they settle, as a result of which the heavy components settle to the bottom. In the second chamber, the clarified waters undergo a post-treatment process. A septic tank of two containers can be made with a bottom in both chambers or only in the first of them. Then a filtering layer is arranged at the bottom of the second chamber, and water is discharged into the ground.
Three-chamber. Most the best option- sewerage for a summer residence from three containers with a volume of 200-250 liters each. In this design, the necessary degree of wastewater treatment is achieved, which does not contradict sanitary standards. Such effluents can be discharged into the ground without the risk of environmental degradation. Drainage from the sewerage is settled in the first chamber. Then the pre-treated waters flow into the second compartment, where they are further purified by the biological method. There is also a small precipitate of small impurities. Only then the purified water enters the filtration chamber, where it is discharged through a layer at the bottom into the ground.

Requirements for a septic tank

To build efficient septic tank with your own hands from barrels, you must adhere to the following rules:

For high-quality wastewater treatment, the septic tank must be multi-chamber. As you understand, single-chamber septic tanks are contrary to sanitary standards. In a multi-chamber design, drains in the first compartment pass mechanical cleaning under the action of gravitational forces, organic compounds are broken down in the second chamber due to microorganisms. In the last filtration chamber, the final post-treatment of the liquid takes place, and the effluents are discharged into the ground.
The septic tank from the barrel must be completely sealed, with the exception of the bottom of the last chamber. This is the only way to guarantee the safety of the entire structure.
When choosing a place for a septic tank, it is worth adhering to the standard distances. So, from the source where the water for the water supply is taken, it should be at least 15 m. It is worth retreating at least 5 m from the foundation of the house. You should not lay sewer pipes near the water supply. The septic tank should be located at a distance of 1-2 meters from roadways and parking lots.

Tip: do not place the treatment plant too far from the house, as there will be problems with observing the slope of the sewer pipes. As a result, it may turn out that they enter the treatment plant at a very great depth, so the septic tank will have to be deeply buried in the ground.

It is necessary to correctly determine the dimensions of all tanks of the treatment plant. The volume of the first chamber of the sump must be equal to the volume of the daily discharge, which is determined from the fact that one tenant consumes 200 liters of water from the water supply per day. This number must be multiplied by the number of residents and by 3 (so many days the drains are in the septic tank). As a result, we get the working volume of the septic tank. The actual volume is usually a little more, but not less.

Necessary materials

After doing preliminary calculations- determining the volume of the septic tank, the length of the sewer pipeline, the hydrogeological state of the soil, the depth of freezing, the dimensions of the pit and the required slope - you can begin to build a septic tank from plastic barrels.

For work you will need the following materials:

Two or three barrels of polymer material volume of 200 liters or more. In addition, you will need a plastic corrugated pipe or another barrel for the well.
To close the barrels from above, it is worth taking three sewer covers (also made of plastic).
Pipes for sewerage with a diameter of 110 mm. The length must be determined from the distance from the house to the septic tank plus a couple of meters of stock.
Ventilation pipe with a cap with a diameter of 110 mm. The length of the pipe is not more than 1.5 m.
Angle fittings and tees for the diameter of the pipes used.
Flanges and couplings.
Small crushed stone with a fraction of elements not more than 40 mm.
Sand.
Adhesive for joining PVC elements.
Epoxy based sealant.
Rubber seals for sealing the entry of pipes into the septic tank.
Cord and pegs.
Shovel.
Roulette.
Bulgarian.
Level.

If in your area ground water stand very high, then the bottom of the pit will have to be concreted. For this you will need cement-sand mixture, electric mixer, mixing tank, fittings and steel cables for fixing barrels at the bottom.

If the soil is loose, then the walls of the pit will need to be reinforced with wooden formwork or steel fine mesh. To insulate the treatment plant and sewer pipeline, you will need mineral wool for pipes, foam plastic or foam plastic for a sewage treatment plant.

Mounting

Before starting excavation, you need to remove from the house sewer pipe. It is from this place that you will dig a trench with a slope to the septic tank. Next, we make a septic tank from a barrel in the following sequence:

From the place where the sewer is removed from the house, we dig a trench 1 m wide to the place where the septic tank is installed. At the same time, we make the slope of the bottom of the trench taking into account 2 cm of difference for each meter of length. Under the septic tank, we dig a pit. Its dimensions must be 20 cm larger than the size of the barrels. At the bottom of the pit, we make ledges 10 cm high to install each communicating tank at different depths. The first camera will be at the top.
Since the septic tank has impressive dimensions, but low weight, groundwater can easily raise the tank to the surface. To prevent this from happening, a concrete pad is made at the bottom of the pit. To do this, first knead cement-sand mortar, then at the bottom of the pit, sand cushion 10 cm high. It is leveled and rammed. After that, it is laid on the bottom reinforcing mesh with outlets for mounting a septic tank. The bottom is poured with a layer of concrete 150-200 mm high.
After the concrete pad has hardened, you can proceed with the installation of the barrels. Each barrel is mounted on a separate step so that the next container is 10 cm lower. There should be a distance of 100-150 mm between the chambers. We attach the barrels to the outlets of the reinforcement in the bottom with a steel cable.
In the first chamber, at the desired height, we cut a hole for the supply pipeline with a diameter of 110 mm. We put a rubber seal in the hole and additionally seal it with mastic. Now insert the tee into the resulting hole. Then we connect the supply sewer pipe and ventilation to it.
At a height below 100 mm from the first hole on the other side of the first barrel, we make another hole for overflow. It is also sealed rubber seal and insert the corner fitting.
We cover the first barrel with a lid and install a ventilation pipe.
Now cut a hole on the side of the second chamber and insert the corner fitting into it. The hole is sealed with a rubber gasket. We connect two daughters with fittings with an overflow pipe.
On the reverse side of the second container, we make a hole at the level of the middle of the barrel to install an overflow into the third chamber. We install the cover.
The third chamber is a sealed well with an overflow hole from the second chamber. We connect the second and third chambers with a pipe. We mount the cover. If instead of the third camera will be used drainage well, then for its arrangement it is necessary to take corrugated pipe with a diameter of 1 m. An overflow hole is cut in its wall, and a gravel-sand layer 300 mm high is arranged at the bottom. It is better to lay a layer of geotextile under the layer. Through it, water will be filtered into the ground.
Backfilling of the septic tank is carried out with alternating layers of sand and concrete. After making a layer 200-300 mm thick, it is wetted with water and rammed.

Important: as the backfill is completed, the barrels must be filled with water 20-30 cm above the backfill level. This will protect the septic tank design from deformation under soil pressure.

The upper part of the treatment plant is insulated with foam plastic and backfilled. Only manhole covers and ventilation pipes should remain above the ground.

Video guide for the construction of a septic tank from barrels:

It happens that for a country life no serious sewerage, treatment facilities are required, and therefore every summer resident is quite capable of making a septic tank with his own hands from barrels. Barrels can now be found in abundance. It must be said right away that such a structure should be considered as temporary. In the future, it will be possible to change it to a factory-made septic tank. But if the load on it is small, then it will provide comfort for many years.

You can arrange a septic tank both from metal barrels and from plastic ones. There are many reasons that encourage the creation of temporary septic tanks. For example, a new house is being built in the country. This process is lengthy and a temporary treatment plant can be made to provide comfort. For work, you need to prepare large containers. Experts recommend giving preference to plastic barrels. Metal ones are not suitable for this purpose, and they are not recommended to be used. Such barrels are susceptible to rotting and corrosion from runoff and will quickly fail. Containers must be chosen without leakage and large.

Why is it better to make a septic tank from barrels?

For the installation of long-term treatment facilities, it is best to purchase a special container. However, such an installation is expensive and it is not always advisable to spend such funds. Especially if there is no year-round residence in the house or a temporary structure is required. There are two main advantages of do-it-yourself septic tanks:

For the manufacture of a septic tank, you need a barrel with a volume of 200 liters or more.

low cost;
ease of installation;
ease of dismantling.

Today you can find plastic barrels with a capacity of 200 to 250 liters relatively inexpensively. Of course, they have already been in use, but for our purposes they are quite suitable. Moreover, there are no difficulties in arranging the structure; anyone can do it.

However, we can not say about the minuses. Such a septic tank, despite the volume of barrels, is still considered small. There are sanitary standards, according to which the volume of the septic tank must contain such an amount of waste that is formed in 3 days. When using treatment facilities from barrels, this point must be taken into account. That is, the number of drains should be the smallest.

The toilet in the country today no longer seems to be something unthinkable. In any hardware store you can find everything you need to organize a pressurized water supply system from a well, river, or, in extreme cases, even from special containers for collecting rainwater. An inexpensive pumping station, plastic pipelines, budget plumbing, a septic tank - and your village life will never be the same :)

However, the problem of wastewater disposal keeps many from building a full-fledged “city” toilet in the country. The cost of automatic treatment plants, concrete or plastic septic tanks, with delivery and installation, amounts to tens or even hundreds of thousands of rubles. Not everyone will dare to build a traditional septic tank from concrete rings on their own, with digging a huge pit, filling filtration fields with crushed stone and cement work.

At the same time, for the seasonal residence of a family of 3-4 people, a home-made septic tank made of plastic barrels, the project of which was proposed by Forumhouse participant Andryukha96, is quite suitable

General view of the building

Barrels can be placed in a pit with reinforced walls, or simply buried in the ground. If the groundwater level is high in your area in the spring, it is worth considering that the barrels are not flooded, that they are not squeezed out of the ground, and that the contents do not spread all over the site. Options for solving the problem: attach the barrels to a concrete base (if any), sprinkle the barrels around the perimeter with a 1: 5 cement-sand mixture, securely seal all connections (at least during the spring flood).

Here are some questions and comments from forumhouse barrel septic project discussion participants:

Will this amount of septic tank be enough?

However (from the photographs), it turns out that the second chamber-barrel "works" only for half the volume (about 100 liters), and the third, in general, for a quarter. In total, the total volume of the septic tank is 200 + 100 + 50 = 350 liters ... It seems to me that this is really not enough for peace of mind).

It turns out about 150 liters * 3 = 450 in one barrel. According to my calculations, it’s enough for three (only the toilet is hooked up).

I have an analogue. Three children and two adults year-round. It has been working for 1 year and 10 months. Has not been pumped out yet. In addition, 10 meters of a leaky pipe in the ground.

How does it all work?

To speed up biological processing in the first barrel, constant aeration is carried out with an aquarium compressor (you can also use something more productive - then the design will begin to strongly resemble a full-fledged automatic treatment station, such as Unilos Astra). It will also be useful to periodically add bacterial cultures through the toilet (there are a large selection in stores).

When summer comes, I will insert the pump into the first barrel and throw the end of the hose into the garden, clean the bottom of the silt and then return everything to its place.

you need a pump or a drainage pump with a float (price 1,500-2,500) or make a float for the baby so as not to run around with the pump all the time!

How to seal connections?

And something seems to me that the places where the pipes enter the barrels are a weak point.

I think a regular rubber seal for the cast-iron-plastic transition will do.

To seal the joints, I used a special glue for plastic (comes in a tube) and then a moisture-resistant ship sealant. Wait a day and you're done.

Glued with a hot glue gun.

Not certainly in that way. It is glued with a special nozzle on a building hair dryer with a rod.
The main material of the rod. There are also polypropylene and polyethylene.

Is it possible to connect a barrel with a cube with a corrugation? In which case, the walking of the soil compensates.

If there are no centralized sewerage and water supply networks near your summer cottage, then for a comfortable stay in the house it is necessary to build an autonomous water supply system and a local treatment plant - a septic tank. Today we will talk about septic tanks. Thanks to them, wastewater will be disposed of in accordance with sanitary standards without harming the environment. It is easier and cheaper to make a home-made treatment plant from improvised materials, for example, a septic tank from barrels. The design can be designed for any volume of drains, depending on the number of people living in the house. In our article you will find a description of the nuances of making a cleaning device from this material, and the video at the end of the article will help you understand the process more clearly.

There can be many options for self-construction in the country of water supply and sewerage. So, water supply can be equipped from a well or a well, and the choice of a septic tank design depends on the characteristics of the effluents, the hydrogeological conditions at the site and the required quality of wastewater treatment. A septic tank from barrels can be:

Single chamber. This homemade septic tank, in fact, is an ordinary cesspool. It can be with or without a bottom, depending on the type of soil and the level of standing groundwater. Waste water from the sewerage system enters the tank, where it is either pumped out by sewers as it accumulates, or filtered into the ground through a special layer of gravel and crushed stone at the bottom. Such a septic tank is suitable for a shower or bath without a toilet. The thing is that this septic tank will not harm the environment, only if fecal sewage does not get into it.

Important: structures without a bottom can only be used on sandy soils with good absorption capacity. On clay soils, wastewater is pumped into a filtration well after settling with a drainage pump.

Two-chamber. A septic tank of two containers is more perfect. For a small cottage, two barrels of 200 liters are enough. Drains immediately from the sewer enter the first chamber, where they settle, as a result of which the heavy components settle to the bottom. In the second chamber, the clarified waters undergo a post-treatment process. A septic tank of two containers can be made with a bottom in both chambers or only in the first of them. Then a filtering layer is arranged at the bottom of the second chamber, and water is discharged into the ground.
Three-chamber. The best option is a sewerage system for giving from three containers with a volume of 200-250 liters each. In this design, the necessary degree of wastewater treatment is achieved, which does not contradict sanitary standards. Such effluents can be discharged into the ground without the risk of environmental degradation. Drainage from the sewerage is settled in the first chamber. Then the pre-treated waters flow into the second compartment, where they are further purified by the biological method. There is also a small precipitate of small impurities. Only then the purified water enters the filtration chamber, where it is discharged through a layer at the bottom into the ground.

Requirements for a septic tank

To build an effective septic tank with your own hands from barrels, you must adhere to the following rules:

For high-quality wastewater treatment, the septic tank must be multi-chamber. As you understand, single-chamber septic tanks are contrary to sanitary standards. In a multi-chamber design, wastewater in the first compartment undergoes mechanical cleaning under the action of gravitational forces, in the second chamber organic compounds are decomposed due to microorganisms. In the last filtration chamber, the final post-treatment of the liquid takes place, and the effluents are discharged into the ground.
The septic tank from the barrel must be completely sealed, with the exception of the bottom of the last chamber. This is the only way to guarantee the safety of the entire structure.
When choosing a place for a septic tank, it is worth adhering to the standard distances. So, from the source where the water for the water supply is taken, it should be at least 15 m. It is worth retreating at least 5 m from the foundation of the house. You should not lay sewer pipes near the water supply. The septic tank should be located at a distance of 1-2 meters from roadways and parking lots.

Tip: do not place the treatment plant too far from the house, as there will be problems with observing the slope of the sewer pipes. As a result, it may turn out that they enter the treatment plant at a very great depth, so the septic tank will have to be deeply buried in the ground.

It is necessary to correctly determine the dimensions of all tanks of the treatment plant. The volume of the first chamber of the sump must be equal to the volume of the daily discharge, which is determined from the fact that one tenant consumes 200 liters of water from the water supply per day. This number must be multiplied by the number of residents and by 3 (so many days the drains are in the septic tank). As a result, we get the working volume of the septic tank. The actual volume is usually a little more, but not less.

Necessary materials

After performing preliminary calculations - determining the volume of the septic tank, the length of the sewer pipeline, the hydrogeological state of the soil, the depth of freezing, the dimensions of the pit and the required slope - you can begin to build a septic tank from plastic barrels.

For work you will need the following materials:

Two or three barrels made of polymeric material with a volume of 200 or more liters. In addition, you will need a plastic corrugated pipe or another barrel for the well.
To close the barrels from above, it is worth taking three sewer covers (also made of plastic).
Pipes for sewerage with a diameter of 110 mm. The length must be determined from the distance from the house to the septic tank plus a couple of meters of stock.
Ventilation pipe with a cap with a diameter of 110 mm. The length of the pipe is not more than 1.5 m.
Angle fittings and tees for the diameter of the pipes used.
Flanges and couplings.
Small crushed stone with a fraction of elements not more than 40 mm.
Sand.
Adhesive for joining PVC elements.
Epoxy based sealant.
Rubber seals for sealing the entry of pipes into the septic tank.
Cord and pegs.
Shovel.
Roulette.
Bulgarian.
Level.

If the groundwater in your area is very high, then the bottom of the pit will have to be concreted. To do this, you will need a cement-sand mixture, an electric mixer, a mixing container, fittings and steel cables to fix the barrels on the bottom.

If the soil is loose, then the walls of the pit will need to be reinforced with wooden formwork or steel fine mesh. To insulate the treatment plant and the sewer pipeline, you will need mineral wool for pipes, foam plastic or foam plastic for the treatment plant.

Mounting

Before starting excavation work, a sewer pipe must be removed from the house. It is from this place that you will dig a trench with a slope to the septic tank. Next, we make a septic tank from a barrel in the following sequence:

From the place where the sewer is removed from the house, we dig a trench 1 m wide to the place where the septic tank is installed. At the same time, we make the slope of the bottom of the trench taking into account 2 cm of difference for each meter of length. Under the septic tank, we dig a pit. Its dimensions must be 20 cm larger than the size of the barrels. At the bottom of the pit, we make ledges 10 cm high to install each communicating tank at different depths. The first camera will be at the top.
Since the septic tank has impressive dimensions, but low weight, groundwater can easily raise the tank to the surface. To prevent this from happening, a concrete pad is made at the bottom of the pit. For this, a cement-sand mortar is first mixed, then a sand cushion 10 cm high is made at the bottom of the pit. It is leveled and rammed. After that, a reinforcing mesh with outlets for fastening the septic tank is laid at the bottom. The bottom is poured with a layer of concrete 150-200 mm high.
After the concrete pad has hardened, you can proceed with the installation of the barrels. Each barrel is mounted on a separate step so that the next container is 10 cm lower. There should be a distance of 100-150 mm between the chambers. We attach the barrels to the outlets of the reinforcement in the bottom with a steel cable.
In the first chamber, at the desired height, we cut a hole for the supply pipeline with a diameter of 110 mm. We put a rubber seal in the hole and additionally seal it with mastic. Now insert the tee into the resulting hole. Then we connect the supply sewer pipe and ventilation to it.
At a height below 100 mm from the first hole on the other side of the first barrel, we make another hole for overflow. We also seal it with a rubber seal and insert the corner fitting.
We cover the first barrel with a lid and install a ventilation pipe.
Now cut a hole on the side of the second chamber and insert the corner fitting into it. The hole is sealed with a rubber gasket. We connect two daughters with fittings with an overflow pipe.
On the reverse side of the second container, we make a hole at the level of the middle of the barrel to install an overflow into the third chamber. We install the cover.
The third chamber is a sealed well with an overflow hole from the second chamber. We connect the second and third chambers with a pipe. We mount the cover. If a drainage well is used instead of the third chamber, then for its arrangement it is necessary to take a corrugated pipe with a diameter of 1 m. An overflow hole is cut in its wall, and a gravel-sand layer 300 mm high is equipped at the bottom. It is better to lay a layer of geotextile under the layer. Through it, water will be filtered into the ground.
Backfilling of the septic tank is carried out with alternating layers of sand and concrete. After making a layer 200-300 mm thick, it is wetted with water and rammed.

Important: as the backfill is completed, the barrels must be filled with water 20-30 cm above the backfill level. This will protect the septic tank design from deformation under soil pressure.