Flat roof. Homework: making an attic floor Temporary support for a roof slab inside a building

Semyonovich, I did not find an answer on the Internet to this question. Sabbath. in a reinforced concrete workshop, the total area is 80 by 24 meters, the slope is about 5 degrees, it is filled with bitumen. It is proposed to tie the rafters directly on it with wire to the floor slabs. But how, I have no idea. It is clear that you need to drill holes in the slabs, but how to stick the wire into one hole and pull it out again into the next one to tie the rafter? From below it is impossible, there is nothing to walk on. Maybe there is another real and simple way to fix the rafters, please advise. Insulation between the rafters is also assumed.

Alexey, Vologda.

Hello, Alexey from Vologda!

Very non-standard question how to fix the wooden rafters to the workshop span. Therefore, the answer to it is not visible on the Internet.

More and more similar ones are simply again covered with roofing material (rubemast, glass isol and the like) directly on its old layers, including the layer of poured bitumen. Sometimes these old layers of the roof are torn off. But this is, of course, difficult. New electrical installations completely fix the roofing material in the old way, without removing it. But they are still a rarity for our great and immense.

I confess that I have never blocked the workshop spans according to your method.

Smaller areas accounted for in several other variations.

At the same time, we laid wooden beams (and boards), an analogue of your rafters, and fastened them to reinforced concrete slabs not with wire, but somewhat differently.

They took a steel corner with a shelf of about 63 - 75 millimeters, cut it with a grinder into pieces 50 - 100 millimeters long. Holes were drilled in these scraps on both shelves. Holes / 2 - 3 pieces / were made for self-tapping screws in vertical shelves (about 5 millimeters in diameter), and in horizontal shelves one hole with a diameter of about 12 - 14 millimeters. (As an option - they took steel sheet 1.5 mm thick, cut into strips, then bent into a corner and drilled holes).

After that, the trimmings of the corner were applied with a vertical shelf to the surface wooden beam and attached to it with screws.

And the second horizontal shelf lay on the surface of a reinforced concrete slab.

Through a hole in the lower shelf of the corner, a hole in the plate was drilled with a perforator or through hole(when it was opposite the cell-cavity of the plate).

Then they took anchor bolts (you can use an anchor wedge), inserted them into the hole, and drove them with a hammer. Then, with a drill with a head for a bolt, the anchors were screwed up to the stop. True, the number of anchors was decent, but they are not cheap.

Received a perfectly normal fit. In doing so, the following features were taken into account.

First, they calculated the approximate step of the reinforcement, which was in the reinforced concrete floor slabs, so that they would not get into them with a perforator and the anchor could be pushed in.

Secondly, when viewed from below, the view was not always presentable, potholes were visible in some places on the surface of the slabs (where the perforator drill hit large gravel, constituent part concrete, and it fell out.

Thirdly, the rafters were not immediately attached to the slabs, but the longitudinal logs. And only then they put rafters on them and fastened them with staples, nails, self-tapping screws. This results in fewer fastening points, respectively, less labor intensity.

All pieces of wood were impregnated with KSD, "Senezh". So the customer demanded in accordance with the regulations. Experienced customers always exercise author's control and often require the use of not colorless compositions, but with color. Then you can see if there is coverage or not. You know, covens are not always scrupulous in this matter.

I can't say anything about other methods. You can, of course, lay out the rafters, drill holes next to them with a perforator and, driving around on an overhead crane inside the workshop span, stick wire into these holes and twist it. But this is somewhat difficult. Yes, and there may not be a crane, but you can’t jump with a ladder.

But this is all speculation on a free topic.

And now what would I personally do in your place.

In your case, floor slabs are most likely used. If memory serves, with spans like yours, their dimensions are about 9 meters by 1.5 (or 1.8) meters. The load-bearing reinforcement in such slabs is located along the perimeter. And over the entire area there is a welded mesh with a large cell. Wire diameter from 3 to 5 millimeters. The plate itself has stiffeners. And the thickness fluctuates around 50 millimeters.

The slabs are supported on reinforced concrete truss arches. The joints of the plates along the strobes are castle or simple.

Then it is most advisable not to use logs, as we did with ordinary rectangular flat reinforced concrete floor slabs, but to take for rafters edged board section 40/150 millimeters. Lay it flat on the surface. "40" is more suitable here than "50", it bends better. Laying, respectively, from the edge to its center.

Then the boards of the crate can be taken measured, six meters long and placed along them without any bends.

Press the rafter boards well to the surface. That is, fix one end of the board, then a couple of people from the brigade should stand on the other end of the board. It will bend and will fit the slope of the roof. Then make fasteners for the next anchor bolt. Fastener pitch - about 1.5 meters. Drill holes for anchor bolts directly in the boards at their centers. And then drilling in the plates themselves.

Drive the anchor also with a hammer, wrap it with a drill with a head. It is most likely impractical to use a screwdriver, its power may not be enough. To prevent the head of the anchor bolt from falling into the wood, you can play it safe and put a large diameter washer under it. The length of the anchors should be approximately equal to the total thickness of the board, bitumen layer, plus the thickness of the floor slab.

There should not be many different kinds of holes along the perimeter of the roof in order to exclude the so-called windage, when the top wind enters a closed space and is able to tear the roof from its base. Such an extreme is rare, but it happens.

Everything proposed does not quite fit into the SNiPs, they would recommend putting the rafters on the edge for greater rigidity, using a 50/150 board, adjusting its surface along the slope, and using an edged board also 50 millimeters thick as a crate. Or remove layers of old roofing felt, make a concrete screed, or even rip off old floor slabs and install new ones with a new layer soft roof. But your customers are unlikely to go to such costs.

I repeat once again that you can have simple reinforced concrete slabs, or maybe floor slabs, respectively, and mounting options can be different.

Focus on circumstances. Try, experiment.

As for the insulation, there will be no special problems. Izover, ursa, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, whatever your heart desires. If you observe all decorum, then you need air gaps, various thermal films, in the worst case, glassine and all this on a counter-lattice. If the insulation is soft and 50 millimeters thick, then it's okay, the "40" board will pass completely, you just need to press it down a little.

However, this is my vision. The decision is still yours to make.

Garage slabs

Typically, slabs are used in the construction of a stone garage. They are laid directly on the masonry walls, on a previously laid out layer of cement mortar.

Since the slab is fed by a crane and held by it on weight, it can be easily corrected and put in place as best as possible with the help of crowbars or metal pipes, using them as levers.

After laying the plates in their places, they begin to seal the joints and places of the mounting loops with cement or concrete mortar.

The design of the plates itself is designed in such a way that longitudinal voids are located inside it, which play the role of thermal insulation. But if the roof structure is with an attic space, then the plates should still be covered with a layer of insulating material.

As in the previous case, a roofing material is laid down, only or bituminous mastic in order to protect the insulation material from the penetration of condensate and water vapor into it.

Any building ends with a roof, which is its top point. The roof protects the building from atmospheric precipitation, sunlight, winds and frost, in other words, it provides much-needed comfort inside the building. This means that the roof must be stable and durable in order to successfully withstand gusts of wind and rain, protect from the impact solar radiation, keep warm and be impervious to moisture. Thus, the roof protects buildings from the destruction that occurs as a result of atmospheric action: moisture, freezing and thawing.

Video how to build a floor on wooden beams

Before embarking on the construction of the most interesting and convenient design roofs, it is worth evaluating correctly - what advantages and disadvantages lie behind the attractive external facade of the idea. The hip roof is no exception. It is worth noting that making a hip roof is enough expensive pleasure requiring funds, knowledge and practical experience.

Features of hip roof construction

If you look closely at the classic hip roof, it becomes clear that it was created primarily for two or three-story houses, for conditions with large quantity rainfall and changeable direction strong winds. No wonder such designs are also called Dutch or Danish. It is there that the advantages of a hip roof are obvious. But the beauty of the design sometimes makes it necessary to make hips precisely for the sake of the appearance of the roof and facade of the house, and not for some special properties.

If we compare the dimensions and material costs on a gable layout and a four-slope hip roof, we can draw the following conclusions:

Making two additional roof slopes instead of flat gables is beneficial due to lower costs for a wooden frame beam, but unprofitable in terms of roofing materials consumption;
If you make the walls of the house from modern aerated concrete blocks or bricks from wood concrete mix, this will reduce heating costs, but the cost of reinforcement will increase significantly load-bearing frame hip roof, by almost 25-30%;
make a roof hip design advantageous if the house is in conditions of constant strong winds and heavy rainfall. In this case, heat loss on a gable roof is 5-10% higher than on structures with hips;
With the same consumption of materials, making a simple hip roof is more expensive due to the need to pay for the services of more qualified builders and specialists;
The design with hips, with the same quality of construction, is considered more durable and durable in comparison with gable roof schemes.

Important! The hip roof today has become almost a classic of the genre in the architecture of low-rise construction of cottages and country houses.

Make a hip roof and make no mistake

The hip roof today can look very beautiful and original. Modern developments of hip roof structures make it possible to make it on almost any modern building, with or without foundation. If the building does not even have a tape foundation of normal depth, a hip roof can be made according to the simplest scheme - with a very small slope of the roof slope, a large extension of the hanging rafters and a wide roof overhang. Naturally, a full-fledged attic and a floor device will be impossible to make due to the weak stability of the box at home. This approach will make it possible to make the minimum aerodynamic load from the wind, good protection walls and foundations from rain flows, and will reduce heat loss through the upper parts of the house. Great option for a small country house.

The main schemes for assembling the hip roof frame:

Construction based only on walls, without the use of floors or ceiling beams;
The sloping version of the frame installation allows you to increase the size hipped roof in height;
The beam-supported roof of the house is the most commonly used option for houses with light walls with insufficient rigidity of the building box;
A hip roof based on floor slabs is the most common option in modern construction of two and three-story houses.

Hip roof supported by floors

Unlike conventional gable roofs, in which the angle of inclination of the flooring can be from 30 - 65 °, hip schemes have an optimal angle of 45 °. Almost all constructions and calculations are performed based on the specified angle of inclination of the main elements of the frame - diagonal rafters. This option provides maximum structural strength.

The use of layered schemes and supports on the beam ceiling

Most often, such a roof rests bottom rafters on a Mauerlat made of timber or thick boards, fixed to the upper end of brick or concrete walls future home. Together with the foundation, the walls form a rigid semi-closed system capable of withstanding vertical and horizontal loads from the rafters. Installing a floor from a log, beam or board in such schemes is necessary to form the ceiling and attic floor. The overlap itself in holding the roof or individual elements does not carry a hip structure.

In a layered design truss supports there is also usually an option ceiling made of wooden beams. With a small size of the house, the specific strength of the floor is enough to partially take on the load from the ridge run and rafters. If the length of the beam increases by more than 5 m, the strength of such an overlap to hold the roof is clearly not enough. Therefore, supporting columns or even part of the walls are built in the central part, on which the central part of the floor beam rests. The load from the ridge run is transmitted through the vertical supports to one powerful central beam, called the bed. Sometimes the force from the weight of the structure is transmitted through the bed directly to the stone supports, without the participation of the ceiling itself.

Thanks to this load redistribution scheme, the rafters can be thinner and lighter, and the pressure on the walls of the house is reduced by 30-40%.

Using joist to hold rafters

Often in the construction of a house, the ability of the main walls to hold the vertical load from the weight of the roof and frame is not always the decisive factor. A similar situation often arises in the construction of panel houses, in buildings with lightweight walls, or when using blocks with low rigidity as the main material for the walls, for example, arbolite stone.

In these cases, even partial unloading and transfer of most of the pressure from the weight of the hip roof from the perimeter external walls to domestic stone walls and support does not solve the problem. The rigidity and strength of the main box of the building is not enough to securely hold even a hip roof, not to mention a gable scheme. The problem of additional rigidity can be solved by making a special overlap of a wooden beam at the base of the roof, with a section of 20x20 cm or 20x15 cm. The beams are laid on top of the finished Mauerlat, with a projection beyond the walls by 60-70 cm, in increments of half a meter. The overlap of the beam must be supported by one of the internal walls.

The ends of the beam protruding beyond the walls are used to fasten the lower parts rafter legs, and in the central part of the ceiling, a frame with supports supporting ridge run and upper part rafters. The main part of the structure - diagonal rafters are installed at the corners of the floor and connected at one point on the ridge run.

Hip roofs with supports on floor slabs

Constructions with hip triangles have long become an obligatory attribute of two or three-story brick and stone cottages built according to classical technology with reinforced concrete slab ceilings. Due to the high strength of the plates and brick walls the problem of providing the required rigidity of the supporting surface under the frame is not worth it.

To hold the weight of the frame, the same scheme is used as in the layered version. The frame with vertical struts and struts, which takes the force from the ridge beam and rafters, rests on a bed fixed on a concrete floor slab.

Features of building a hip roof

Designed to withstand any wind load, but subject to strict observance of the geometry of the connection of the four main diagonal rafters.

The accuracy of the connection and geometry of the rafters

All efforts can be in vain if violated optimal angles slope of the hip rafters to the ceiling and the angle between them. The best option a scheme is considered in which the corner hip rafters are connected to each other at an angle of 90 °.

The optimal angle between hip beams- an important but insufficient condition for the strength of the hip roof frame. If you look at the roof frame in profile, both hip planes should have exactly the same size and the same angle of inclination. Otherwise, the structure will be overloaded on one of the sides, and this is the first step towards deformation and destruction. If you look at the frame from above, you can see that with an ideal assembly, the opposite corner hip rafters should be parallel.

Methods for connecting beams and hip roof rafters

Despite the efforts made to unload part of the structure, it is difficult to make the frame absolutely ideal in terms of the arrangement of beams and load-bearing elements. Therefore, in all main power beams and rafters, metal overlay plates and wooden overhead elements are used when fastening and fixing on walls.

Most often, beams and rafters at the setup stage are “drafted” together, the easiest way to do this is with the help of self-tapping screws and clamps. After adjusting the dimensions of all joints, it is necessary to check the position of the beams and rafters, then all the fasteners are finally connected, it is easier to do this with nails, hammering them in pairs at different angles.

The ligaments of the diagonal hips are fixed first on the ridge run, while the withdrawal from the calculated place of the opposite beams is necessarily checked. This is the most responsible and difficult stage of the assembly of the structure, and it is important to do this procedure slowly and very efficiently. Builder Qualification hip roofs manifests itself precisely at this stage, all subsequent work is quite capable of being done by an ordinary carpenter who has a general idea of \u200b\u200bthe arrangement of diagonal rafters and hips.

The load on the diagonals of hip roofs exceeds the force on an ordinary rafter by more than one and a half times. Therefore, the adjusted and fixed corner hips are first knocked out with struts and stops. Each of the retaining elements is adjusted individually and is also fastened with a reinforced connection. On the next step it is important to correctly install the sprigs and ordinary rafters; upon completion, you need to tighten the fastening of the rafter legs on the Mauerlat or floor beams.

Before laying the vapor barrier, it is imperative to treat with preservative solutions. It's easier and safer, you can use the most popular Tikkurila formulations in an organic solvent.

Conclusion

It is not so difficult to make a roof with hips if there is a real specialist in the team who can be entrusted with monitoring the implementation of the main, especially critical junctions of power elements. It is possible to do these works yourself, without having practical experience in building hips, but the construction itself will stretch for several months, and the cost of damaged material will just amount to the cost of the services of a qualified specialist.

The garage is not only a place where you can leave the car without fear that it will be damaged by atmospheric influences, but also a workshop, in other words, a man's refuge. This structure, first of all, should be invulnerable to precipitation, that is, there should not be any leaks, so the owners of garages have to periodically cover and repair their roofs.

a - gable; b - attic; in - single-sided; g - gable uneven.

The simplest and cheapest roof for a garage is a pitched roof.

Most minimum set building materials that are needed to create such a garage roof are floor slabs and roofing material with which they are covered. But there are other ways to cover the roof with your own hands, without the use of floor slabs. They demand more investment time and money, but in this case you will do without the use of heavy construction equipment (crane).

What is a floor slab?

It is a flat rectangular block made of concrete or reinforced concrete. Reinforced concrete slabs are hollow and solid. In private construction, the former are most popular. This is due to the fact that the hollow reinforced concrete slab can be laid on your own, without the participation of a professional construction team. In addition, longitudinal voids in the slab play the role of thermal insulation.

There are a great many varieties of slabs, they differ in size, types of reinforcement used in the manufacture of slabs and concrete grades. Therefore, it will not be difficult for you to choose plates for your garage project. You need to choose their length, given that they should rest at least 12-15 cm on a brick wall, and 7 cm on a concrete wall.

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How to lay a floor slab?

Scheme of laying floor slabs: 1 - slab, 2 - box with mortar, 3 - shovel, 4 - box with tools, 5 - scrap.

In order to lay such slabs, you need a crane and two or three people. They are placed directly on the supporting walls, on which a layer of mortar was previously laid. The solution must be sufficiently liquid, its task is to evenly transfer the load from the plates to the supporting walls. Therefore, it is very important to monitor its quality.

The crane lifts the slab and keeps it suspended. If she did not become exactly above the required laying place, then with the help of a crowbar or metal pipe, acting as levers, its location is regulated on its own. The plates are adjusted to each other along the underside. To avoid horizontal displacement of the floor slabs, they are fixed with an annular anchor on the support. After all the plates have been installed, it is necessary to seal the joints and places of the mounting loops with concrete mortar. Next, the ends of the slabs are laid with bricks. If this is not possible, then all the cracks are clogged with rubble and concreted. It is very good to fill the hollow holes in the slabs with crushed stone or expanded clay, not so much for additional thermal insulation, as so that the screed mortar does not flow there.

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Concrete slab roof repair

A concrete screed is needed so that moisture from condensation and precipitation does not accumulate in the irregularities of the slab.

If you are going to repair the roof of a garage covered with concrete slabs, then first of all determine whether the slabs have already been covered with bitumen or are they new, whether waterproofing materials have been used or not yet.

If the roof is new, but without waterproofing, you need to make a concrete screed. This is done so that moisture from condensation and precipitation does not accumulate in the irregularities of the plate. From quality concrete screed it will depend on how durable and strong the do-it-yourself coating will be.

If the slabs have already been covered with roofing material, then it is necessary to remove pieces of the fallen off coating. If there are bubbles, then they must be cut crosswise, turn the corners and remove all water and dirt from the voids. The roof is then inspected for cracks and, if any, carefully cleared away.

After analyzing and clearing the roof surface from dust and debris, you can proceed to its primer. For these purposes, bituminous mastic is used. It is better to cover the roof twice: the first - liquid mastic, the second one is thicker. A new layer is applied after the previous one has been absorbed and dried. Joints of plates, cracks, as well as the remains of the old coating, if any, are especially carefully smeared with mastic. The second layer of mastic should not exceed 5 mm, so as not to be torn during frost.

After the primer has dried, you can start covering the roof with roofing material, starting from the lowest edge of the roof. It is optimal to lay three layers of this material, each of which will be perpendicular to the next or simply offset relative to the joints (to close the joints of the previous layer). In order to lay a strip of roofing material, you need to roll out the material, leaving at least 10 cm overlap with another strip and 15 cm at the edges to wrap under the roof visor. Next, the strip is again rolled up and they begin to warm up its lower side with a gasoline burner and gradually unfold it, straightening it with their own hands or stamping it so that voids do not form. After the first layer of roofing material is laid, the roof is smeared with mastic and the second layer of roofing material is laid using the same technology, and then the third.

Of the tools you will need:

level;
metal brush;
Master OK;
spatulas;
shovel;
several rules, of different lengths;
hard brushes for applying mastic;
containers for preparing or pouring mastic, for concrete mortar;
industrial hair dryer or gas or gasoline burner.

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How to block the garage without the use of floor slabs?

If you do not have the opportunity to purchase floor slabs or you expect difficulties with their installation, then you can block the garage with your own hands without them. There are several methods that are almost as popular: this is a wooden beam roof and the use of I-beams.

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Roof mounting technology using I-beams

Steel I-beams with a height of 100-120 mm are laid across the garage on a long wall. They need to be chosen 20-25 cm longer than the width of your garage. They should be mounted in such a way that at least 10 cm of the beam goes into the wall and repeats its slope. The distance between the two beams should not exceed 80 cm. After installation, boards 40 mm wide are laid on their lower shelves. They should be laid as tightly as possible, shifting with your hands if necessary. It must be remembered that there must be 20 cm visors in front and behind the garage, which are also made from 40 mm boards, nailing an additional board perpendicular to them along the edge. The visors are fixed under the upper shelf of the extreme beams. Before laying, the beams should be painted, and the boards should be treated with an antiseptic and also covered with paint.

The beams are located at the same distance and the filling elements are laid on them, which perform the enclosing function.

After all the boards are laid and the floors are sewn up, a roofing material is rolled over them across the garage. The amount of roofing material must be calculated in such a way that 10 cm are left from each edge, bent up. Further, the entire space flush with the top of the beams is covered with slag, expanded clay or laid mineral plates. The roof visor is also insulated, trying to equalize the level of the perpendicularly nailed board with the rest of the roof plane.

A cement screed with a thickness of 20 mm or more is made on top of the insulation layer, but 30-35 mm is considered the most optimal. The screed should be smooth, without strong depressions and humps. If you put a 2 m rail anywhere on the roof, the space under it should not exceed 5-7 cm. At this stage, the garage roof is ready, but if it is left in this form, then after rain it will begin to absorb water and leak.

As waterproof protective materials, the same roofing material is used that was laid after the crate, or its analogues, for example, rubemast and bikrost. These modern materials is fiberglass, which increases their service life. They are glued to the roof in one of two ways: on bituminous mastic or by fusing.

Bituminous mastic, sometimes called a primer, can be bought or made by hand from molten bitumen and diesel fuel or used motor oil. This is done in this way: one part of molten bitumen is poured into three parts of diesel fuel or oil. It is very important to pour bitumen into diesel fuel, and not vice versa. After preparing the primer, they process a well-dried screed and, rolling out the roofing material, glue it in such a way that the overlaps are at least 10 cm.

It is very convenient to do this together: one person smears the roof with bituminous mastic, the second rolls out the roofing material, straightening it with his hands so that bubbles do not form. If you use the fusing method, then the assistant will not be superfluous. In this case, one person heats up the roofing material with an industrial hair dryer or burner, and the second one unfolds and presses it to the base.

1 - I-beam No. 14; 2 - concrete; 3 - floor; 4 - slag concrete screed (2-3 cm); 5 - sawdust concrete slabs (8.5 cm, AB-004 roofing cardboard from below); 6 - reinforced cinder-concrete slabs (6.5 cm); 7 - lime-cement plaster (1 cm).

The most optimal is the direction method or the combination of both methods (lubricate the roof with bituminous mastic as a primer, and then fuse roofing material), since the bituminous mastic cracks over time and the waterproofing of the roof is broken. The roofing felt sticker should be made, starting from the lowest edge of the roof. Moving up the slope, you need to glue the strips across the roof. From both ends of the roof, the roofing material must be overlapped on the end board of the visor.

Required tools:

level;
metal rail to control straight lines;
wood saw;
electric jigsaw;
a hammer;
brushes for paint, antiseptic and bituminous mastic;
shovel;
roofing or other sharp knife;
containers for concrete mix and bituminous mastic;
rules of different lengths;
gasoline or gas burner or industrial hair dryer.

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Timber garage roof

The use of wooden beams is strictly regulated building codes and limited by the width of the span.

This roof is made up of wooden rafters and crates. How the rafter is used metallic profile, but this greatly complicates the process of installing the roof with your own hands and is economically unprofitable. A wooden roof can be single-pitched or double-pitched, where you can arrange a warehouse or a mini-workshop in the attic.

For rafters, a board of at least 150x40 mm is taken. If the angle of the roof bevel is small, then it is better to take a beam of 150x60 mm and install it vertically. For the crate, a beam of 50x50 mm or more is suitable, depending on the angle of the bevel, or a board of 150x25 mm. Be sure to consider that the smaller the angle of inclination pitched roof, the more snow pressure will be in winter, so you should choose more durable materials. After rafter system and the crate are finished, the garage roof should be vapor-insulated and insulated. All wooden parts must be treated with an antiseptic.

Reinforced polyethylene is suitable as a vapor barrier material; it is laid with an overlap between strips of 10 cm, which are additionally glued with adhesive tape. Mineral wool is laid on top of it in slabs, which acts as a heater. It is laid in 2-3 layers between the rafters so that there are no gaps left.

a - wooden floor beams: 1 - beam with one cranial bar (extreme); 2 - beam with two cranial bars (middle); 3 - cranial bars; 4 - nails K4x100 with a step of 20 cm; b - wooden shield floors: 1 - flooring boards; 2 - transverse strips; 3 - linings; 4 - nails K3.5x90.

Lay the last layer roofing, for example, corrugated board, which you can simply mount with your own hands. It is necessary to align each profile sheet along the lower edge of the roof with an allowance of 20 cm, gradually moving up. If in the end there are irregularities in the upper part of the roof along the profile, then this will hide the visor.

To install such a roof, you will need the following tools:

wood saw;
electric jigsaw;
Circular Saw;
screwdriver;
a hammer;
screwdriver;
level;
long rail to control straight lines;
roofing or other sharp knife;
metal scissors;
punch;
ticks different types for metal bending;
files for grinding cuts.

Row outbuildings have flat roof. Most often this brick garage or hozbloki. As roofing usually concrete slabs are used. For year-round operation of the premises, it becomes necessary to perform floor insulation. In this regard, questions of how to cover concrete roof garage and what is the principle of this operation, require detailed study.

Principles of thermal insulation

The garage, or rather its roof, is insulated according to the same laws and principles that are valid when performing thermal insulation of the walls of residential buildings:

the heat-insulating layer must be outside;
waterproofing should protect concrete floor slabs and, if necessary, insulation;
conditions must be created to prevent mechanical damage layers of hydro and thermal insulation.

The latter condition is especially relevant in cases where the roof is in use (which is quite common).

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer that needs to cover the roof is selected in each case separately. It depends on the mode in which the garage is operated, the climatic characteristics of the area and the thermal characteristics of the insulation itself.

Materials for insulation

Because of the abundance thermal insulation materials the question of choosing the most suitable insulation can be confusing at first. On closer examination, the whole variety of thermal insulation that can be used in this case comes down to three groups:

plates mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam (EPS);
loose mineral heaters.

The roof can be insulated with thick, rigid mineral wool slabs. The density value of the boards should be in the range of 170-230 kg/m3.

The advantages of mineral wool include its incombustibility, stability of physical and chemical characteristics in time. Light weight, which distinguishes the material, play special significance will not, because concrete slabs have a very high bearing capacity.

The main disadvantage of mineral wool is its strong water absorption and, as a result, a sharp decline thermal insulation characteristics. The insulation layer must be covered with an insulating barrier. Moreover, the roof, insulated with mineral wool, must be protected both from atmospheric precipitation and from moisture rising from the side of the room.

More preferably, the use of extruded polystyrene foam boards. They have great rigidity and are able to withstand mechanical loads, which allows you to create a garage with an exploitable roof. Density of the XPS used for the device flat roof must be at least 30 kg/m3. You should also give preference to low-combustible grades of material.

The folds made along the perimeter of the plates provide a tight connection of adjacent sheets. The garage is almost completely covered with monolithic thermal insulation.

A very big plus is the structure of the EPS. Closed sealed cells with air, which make up the material, practically do not absorb water. The water absorption coefficient is extremely low. This makes it possible to perform less severe waterproofing than that required for mineral wool.

Concrete slabs, which act as floors, have a very large bearing capacity. The roof is able to withstand significant loads, and restrictions on the weight of the insulation are removed. It becomes possible to use a material such as expanded clay.

Of the advantages of the heater, it is worth mentioning its cheapness and ease of operation. Expanded clay is also afraid of moisture and it is necessary to take appropriate measures to prevent it from getting wet. The backfill layer is leveled, then it needs to be covered cement screed, on top of which, after hardening, a carpet of rolls is applied waterproofing materials.

If the roof has a large area, then it is desirable to lay inside the expanded clay layer reinforcing mesh, it will stiffen the backfill layer and prevent cracking of the cement screed.

Traditional insulation scheme

At traditional pattern roof insulation, the main layer of waterproofing protects the insulation from atmospheric moisture.

The garage is covered with a roofing "pie" having the following layers:

concrete floor slabs;
vapor barrier;
a layer of insulating material;
waterproofing;
roofing material.

As a waterproofing for the roof of the garage, roofing material laid in several layers or specialized rolled materials can be used. A prerequisite is the fastening of waterproofing materials with mastic or liquid bitumen.

Using the welding method with open fire unacceptable, because there is a risk of fire.

Coating

When choosing the best to cover the roof of a garage made of concrete slabs, you should pay attention to the following materials:

flexible bitumen tiles;
roll materials;
sheet materials (slate, metal tile, polymer slate).

In some cases, the garage is designed for the active use of the roof. In this case, the roof can be tiled paving slabs or paving stones.

The thermal insulation layer can be made of any suitable physical characteristics materials (mineral wool, XPS, loose mineral insulation).

Inverted insulation scheme

The roof in this case is protected by a waterproofing barrier, which is laid on concrete floor slabs. Then a heat-insulating layer is performed. With such a scheme, the insulation will protect the waterproofing from exposure to sunlight, and most importantly, from temperature extremes.

The created conditions allow you to get a garage, which has significantly increased the period of maintenance-free operation of the entire roof structure.

The use of mineral wool or expanded clay in this case is unacceptable due to their hygroscopicity. They get wet very quickly and lose their properties. Only possible variant- cover the roof with XPS boards. It has the required rigidity and almost zero water absorption.

Roof structure

The structure of the roof will look like this:

concrete floor slabs;
leveling cement screed;
waterproofing;
insulation;
roofing.

Moisture protection and coating

Concrete slabs are leveled with a screed and covered with a layer of waterproofing. This allows fastening by fusing insulation using open flames. Mounting with mastic also does not lose its relevance.

The final roofing, mounted on the garage, is made of the same materials and using the same technology as in the traditional scheme. Roofing materials in this case are mostly decorative.