In this article we will analyze in detail the design and construction of a monolithic concrete floor on the ground. By “floor on the ground”, further in the article, we will mean a concrete floor made inside the contour of the foundation, directly on the ground. Let's look at common questions related to this floor and the structure itself, from ground to finish.
For what types of foundations can a floor be made on the ground?
Concrete flooring can be used when strip foundation, and with a columnar foundation (or foundation using TISE technology). Slab foundation itself (by its design) is also a floor on the ground. With a strip foundation, the floor structure is usually adjacent to the foundation wall.
Rice. 1. Connection of the floor along the ground to the strip foundation
Rice. 2. Connection of the floor along the ground to columnar foundation with a low grillage
With a columnar foundation or a foundation using TISE technology, the floor structure along the ground can be adjacent to the grillage (if the grillage is low), or located below the grillage (if the grillage is high).
In the case of a high grillage, the gap between the floor structure and the grillage is closed when the floor is filled, for example, with boards (can be unedged). These boards remain in the structure and are not removed, Figure 3.
Rice. 3. Connection of the floor along the ground to the columnar foundation in the case of a high grillage
The height of the floor on the ground relative to the strip foundation
Rice. 4. Floor on the ground on the expansion of the belt
Rice. 5. The ground floor is adjacent to the wall of the strip foundation
Rice. 6. The ground floor is located above the foundation strip
Rice. 7. The ground floor is adjacent to the top of the belt
There are no constructive mandatory recommendations regarding the mark (height) of the floor installation on the ground. It can be installed at any height shown in Figures 4-7 above. The only thing you need to pay attention to when choosing this option is where the height of the front door will be. It is advisable to attach to the mark of the bottom of the door so that there is no difference between the bottom of the door and the floor, as in Figure 8, or so that you do not then need to cut an opening in the tape for the door.
Rice. 8. Height difference between the ground floor and the doorway
Rice. 9. The floor is level with the doorway
Note: It is better (more correct) to provide an opening for the front door at the stage of filling the tape. Just do not fill this place, insert boards or foam plastic there, so that there is an opening in the tape. If you forgot to leave the opening, then you will have to either make the entire floor higher (and this will increase the cost of bedding), or cut an opening in the finished strip, cut the reinforcement in it, weaken it, etc.
Thus, if the opening under the front door is made correctly (at the stage of filling the tape), then we arrange the floor on the ground so that the top of the floor is level with the opening under the door (taking into account the finishing coating). In order to correctly calculate the thickness of the floor structure, and determine at what point you need to start its construction, you need to understand what the thickness of all its layers will be, what this depends on. More on this later.
There are no such cases. Even when high level groundwater, then it is more correct to install a monolithic floor on the ground than a floor on joists, for example. The type of soil, seismicity, level of freezing - all this also does not affect the possibility of installing such a floor.
Note: We do not consider situations where the house is raised above the ground on stilts; it is clear that then such a floor is not suitable.
Options for floor construction on the ground
Rice. 10. Floor construction on the ground with a ground water level higher than 2 m (with waterproofing)
Rice. 11. Floor construction on the ground at low ground water level, below 2 m, with bedding
Rice. 12. Floor construction on the ground at low ground level, below 2 m, without bedding, with pouring instead of rough screed
Rice. 13. Floor construction on the ground at low ground level, below 2 m, without bedding, with a rough screed
Rice. 14. Construction of the floor on the ground in combination with a warm floor
Note: Figure 14 shows the underfloor heating pipes and the reinforcing mesh above them. Between the floor pipes and the reinforcing mesh, - no gap, just drawn for clarity.
Description of the main floor layers based on the ground
Let's analyze the main layers (pie) of the floor according to the ground. Let's look at the structure from the bottom up. We will describe all the layers that may exist, without reference to a specific drawing.
- Compacted soil- the base for the floor must be well compacted;
- Bedding layers(sand 7-10 cm and crushed stone 7-10 cm). Bedding layers can be used to protect against capillary rise of water and can be used as a leveling layer. The crushed stone in the bedding layer should be of a fraction of 30-50 mm (large). The sand in the bedding layer can be of any kind, both river and quarry (gully). Whether the crushed stone can be replaced with expanded clay depends on the purpose for which the bedding is made; you can read about this in the paragraph Is it possible to replace crushed stone with expanded clay, in the same article, below. It is important that the bedding layers are well compacted. There are conditions when a bedding device is necessary and when it is not. You can read about this in the paragraph What determines the design of a floor on the ground, in the same article, below;
- Rough floor screed on the ground. This is a layer on top of bedding or compacted soil. Performed by plastic film(it spreads on the ground or bedding), the thickness of the rough screed is 5-7 cm. It does not need to be reinforced. Sometimes the rough screed is replaced with a pour. About pouring - in the next paragraph, about when you can replace the rough screed with pouring - in the paragraph Is it possible to replace the rough screed with pouring, in the same article, below. The crushed stone in the construction of the rough screed should be of a fraction of 5-10 mm (fine). The sand in the construction of the rough screed must be river sand, not quarry (gully);
- Pouring (pouring) the floor over the ground. It is arranged by pouring a solution onto the bedding layer. The thickness of the pouring is equal to the thickness of the bedding layer. It fits without plastic film;
- Waterproofing. Constructed from roofing felt, 1-2 layers. You can take the most ordinary roofing material, without sprinkling. There are conditions when waterproofing is mandatory. You can read about this in the paragraph What determines the design of the floor on the ground below;
- . As insulation for floors on the ground, we recommend using EPS with a density of 28-35 kg/m 3, or polystyrene foam with a density of 30 kg/m 3 and higher. The thickness of the insulation is determined by calculation (depending on the climate zone);
- Finishing screed. The thickness of the finishing screed is 7-10 cm. The crushed stone in the construction of the finishing screed should be of a fraction of 5-10 mm (fine). The sand in the construction of the finishing screed must be river sand, not quarry (gully). The finishing screed (as opposed to the rough screed) must be reinforced. Reinforcement is performed with a mesh with a wire diameter of 3-4 mm. How to choose, 3 mm or 4 mm, is written in the paragraph What determines the design of the floor on the ground below;
- Finish coating. The final finish of the floor on the ground can be anything. Accordingly, the details of the device are different for each type of coating.
Presence and sequence of floor layers on the ground
What determines the design of the floor on the ground:
- From the groundwater level;
- It depends on whether these floors will be with heat transfer fluids (warm) or not;
- From operational loads on floors.
How exactly the construction of a floor on the ground depends on these factors will be discussed below.
1. By the presence of waterproofing. Our recommendations: install waterproofing from roofing felt (1-2 layers) if the groundwater level lies closer than 2 m from the bottom of the floor along the ground. In addition, if the groundwater is located closer than 2 m, we recommend making a backfill of sand and crushed stone, Figure 10. If the level is lower than 2 m, then the floor can be made without waterproofing. At a level lower than 2 m, backfilling with sand and crushed stone is not necessary, Figure 11, 12, 13.
Note: You need to focus on the highest groundwater level that may be at a particular construction site. That is, look at how high the water rises in the spring, during a flood, etc., and take this level into account.
2. If there are coolants in the floor structure on the ground, you need to make a gap between the walls and the floor, 2 cm. This requirement is the same for both water and electric heated floors. The gap is made at the level of the finishing screed (with coolant). All layers below the finishing screed are placed against the walls without a gap, Figure 14. You can read more about the installation of a water-heated floor in the article.
3. If it is planned that something heavy will be placed on the floor on the ground (heavier than 200 kg/m2), then we reinforce the finishing screed with a mesh with a wire diameter of 4 mm. If the load is up to 200 kg/m2, then it can be reinforced with a wire mesh with a diameter of 3 mm.
Important points when installing a floor on the ground
These important points I would like to analyze based on the questions that, as a rule, arise among readers of our portal when installing a floor on the ground.
Can interior walls be placed on this floor?
Yes, on a screed reinforced with 4 mm wire, you can install internal walls made of brick (in brick), from a partition block (100 mm), and walls half a block thick. By “block” we mean any block (expanded clay concrete, shell rock, aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc.)
Is it possible to replace crushed stone in the bedding layer with expanded clay?
Backfilling is usually done in order to interrupt the capillary rise of water. Expanded clay swells with water and is not suitable as a bedding material. That is, if the bedding was planned as additional protection from water, such a replacement cannot be made. If the backfill was not planned as protection, but simply as a leveling layer, and the water is far away (deeper than 2 m from the base), and the soil is constantly dry, then you can replace crushed stone with expanded clay to install a floor on the ground.
Is it possible to replace the crushed stone in the bedding layer with broken bricks and waste construction materials?
It is forbidden. If the bedding was planned as additional protection from water, then broken bricks and other waste will not fulfill their purpose in the bedding. If the bedding was not planned as protection, but simply as a leveling layer, then we also do not recommend such a replacement, since these materials have different fractions and will be difficult to compact well, and this is important for the normal operation of the floor structure.
Is it possible to replace the crushed stone in the bedding layer with expanded clay, pour more of it, and then not put insulation?
To replace 50-100 mm of EPS (this is the average amount needed to insulate a floor on the ground), you will need 700-1000 mm of expanded clay. It is impossible to properly compact such a layer, so we do not recommend doing this.
Is it possible not to reinforce the screed?
You don't have to reinforce the rough screed. The finishing screed must be reinforced.
Is it possible to reinforce the screed with something other than mesh? Instead of reinforcing mesh, is it possible to simply put metal rods in the screed without tying them together, or other metal parts?
No, for reinforcement to work, it must be done with a mesh.
Is it possible to lay waterproofing directly on bedding layers?
No, waterproofing must be laid on a flat and solid base (in our case it is rough screed), otherwise it will quickly become unusable due to uneven loads.
Is it possible not to make a rough screed and lay waterproofing or insulation (if there is no waterproofing) directly on the bedding layers?
We discussed waterproofing in the paragraph above. The insulation also needs to be laid on a flat and solid base. This base is the rough screed. Otherwise, the insulation may move, and subsequent layers too, and this may lead to cracks in the floor.
Is it possible to do a wash instead of a rough screed?
Let's look at what we mean by “rough screed” and “shedding”. A rough screed is a layer on top of bedding or compacted soil. It is carried out over a polyethylene film (it is spread on the ground or bedding), the thickness of the rough screed is 5-7 cm. The pouring is done by pouring the solution onto the bedding layer. The thickness of the pouring is equal to the thickness of the bedding layer. It fits without plastic film. Now let’s talk about whether the rough screed can be replaced by pouring. If the water is closer than 2 m, and the backfill (sand and crushed stone) was used as a layer that prevents capillary rise, then watering cannot be done. Because spilled crushed stone will not interrupt the capillary rise of water. If the backfill was carried out for leveling purposes, and the water is deeper than 2 m, then you can use a backfill instead of a rough screed. If there is no bedding at all, and the screed is done directly on the compacted soil, then you can do both a rough screed and a pouring screed. It just turns out that there is no point in doing the pouring, since for it you will still have to pour about 3 cm of sand and about 10 cm of crushed stone, and in this case the sand is river sand, and the crushed stone fraction is about 10 mm. In general, it is easier to do a regular rough screed.
Does polyethylene under the rough screed replace waterproofing?
The function of this layer is to prevent concrete milk from going into the bedding layers or into the ground. This layer is purely technological; it does NOT replace the main waterproofing (roofing felt on top of the rough screed). If the water is deeper than 2 m, then waterproofing (roofing felt) is not needed, but this does not mean that we “replaced” it with polyethylene. It’s just that these layers have different functions and do not replace one another. When installing a rough screed and water deeper than 2 m, a layer of polyethylene is still needed.
Where is the correct place to place the reinforcing mesh in the finishing screed?
Does it matter where exactly the reinforcing mesh is located in the finishing screed layer (bottom, top or center)? If the screed is without coolants, then the mesh should be located 3 cm from the top of the screed (that is, approximately in the middle). If the screed contains coolants, then the mesh must be on top of the pipes, plus 2-3 cm of a protective layer.
Rice. 15. Finish screed without coolants, reinforcement
Rice. 16. Reinforcement of finishing screed with coolants
Building a house is a long-term process and includes a huge number of works in various directions. This includes the construction of walls, the construction of roofs, and a host of other types of work. One of the required steps is pouring the rough screed. It is necessary to create a primary base, on which the finishing screed or finishing coating will then be laid. A rough screed does not require special qualifications of the builder, but, nevertheless, involves a large number of works associated with its creation.
Creating smooth floors in a new home is not the easiest thing. And it is the construction of a rough screed that is the main step on the way to a level base suitable for laying various types coatings. It ensures the reliability of the base and its strength. This is a rather labor-intensive and time-consuming process, but at the same time it is financially quite economical.
As a rule, laying the rough screed on the first floors is done directly on the ground. And most often, ordinary concrete mixture made from sand and cement is used as the base material.
However, quite simple process creating a rough screed cannot be called. The fact is that it involves laying several layers of different materials and several preparatory stages:
- soil preparation - it must be thoroughly compacted;
- laying sand and gravel mixture;
- flooring waterproofing material, insulation;
- installation of the rough screed itself;
- installation of finishing material.
Thus, the floor consists of several layers. And this design has its own name - floor pie. It may also contain . Reinforcement is necessary to increase the strength of the screed.
Important! A rough screed can only be installed on dry soil. It will not be possible to create a full-fledged one on a damp surface, as problems with waterproofing may arise. Also, a rough screed can only be installed if groundwater is at least 4 m below the surface.
Also, during the installation of the rough screed, a floor heating system and other communications can be installed inside, if necessary according to the house construction project.
In general, a concrete floor on the ground in private construction is probably the most acceptable option for creating a foundation. It is often installed inside garages, on terraces, verandas, in warehouse premises and others.
On a note! Most often, concrete floors on a soil base are installed where there is no severe cold in winter period, that is, in the middle or southern zone of the Russian Federation. In cold regions, it is recommended to use wood to create the subfloor.
In the photo - crushed stone bedding
Main advantages
If we consider the main advantages of creating a floor on the ground, we can identify the following.
- Simplicity of all work. In general, creating a floor pie with the right approach takes only a few hours.
- High strength and resistance to deformation will ensure a long service life of the floor finish.
- This base has good thermal, hydro and sound insulation properties. Such a floor will not freeze critically even in cold weather, which will keep the house warm and cozy.
- One of the factors is economy. Arranging a rough screed is not as expensive as it might seem at first glance.
Thanks to all these advantages, many future home owners choose it as a foundation rather than one made from any other materials.
Types of rough screed
Rough, like a regular screed, can be different types. It all depends on the installation technology and materials used. It can be performed using both dry and wet methods.
Dry floor screed- this is a kind of multi-layer cake, where the layers are vapor barrier material (or waterproofing), expanded clay or sand, acting as a dry “pillow”, as well as any leveling material such as chipboard, OSB, plywood or gypsum fiber, depending on the wishes of the owner of the future home. Often the material can be laid not in one, but in two layers, with individual sheets fastened with self-tapping screws.
Wet screed is made on the basis cement-sand mixture, which will be poured on top of previously laid other layers and carefully leveled. A waterproofing layer and insulation can be laid under it, and a sand cushion is mandatory.
On a note! There is also a semi-dry screed. If in the previous version the mixture during preparation and use will resemble the consistency of sour cream, then in the version with a semi-dry screed it will look like wet sand.
Schemes of the rough screed device
Depending on the level at which the groundwater lies, as well as depending on the ground level and the position of the screed relative to the foundation, several types are distinguished.
Table. Types of arrangement of rough screed.
| Type of screed | Description |
|---|---|
| Screed below ground level | This method is used if it is planned to arrange food storage rooms or warehouses under the floor. In this case, the screed is located below the ground level, adjacent to the foundation. |
| Screed at ground level | Can be used in both industrial construction and residential construction low-rise buildings. The screed is located at ground level and adjacent to the strip foundation. |
| Screed above ground level | In this case, the screed is mounted above the foundation level; it is most effective and advisable to use it in places where groundwater lies quite close to the surface, in areas where the risk of floods and streams is high. |
In general, there is no universal scheme for arranging a screed - depending on the design of the house, it can be carried out in any of the above options. However, it is important to accurately design the location and level before construction begins. doorways so that you don’t have to correct mistakes later.
Foundation preparation process
All work on arranging a rough screed begins with careful preparation of the soil base. To begin with, it is important to identify the highest and lowest points, taking into account the level of the soil and the evenness of its surface. A laser level will help determine their values. This procedure is necessary in order to evaluate for yourself the entire scope of work, as well as decide how much building materials may be required.
It is also important to pay attention to thoroughly compacting the soil. To do this, you can use special construction equipment - for example, a roller or vibrator. The procedure is necessary so that in the future the soil does not sag significantly and this does not lead to cracking of the rough screed, which will undoubtedly negatively affect the finishing floor covering.
After the soil has been thoroughly compacted, a sand and gravel cushion is laid. It can also be made from clean, washed and river sand. The thickness of this layer should not be more than 60 cm. In the latter case, a layer of gravel or expanded clay is also poured on top, which will make it possible to create a more durable base.
Attention! Before the soil is compacted, it is important to cut off the entire fertile layer, if any. It can be found in a more worthy use than burial under the house. The soil layer is removed approximately 35 cm.
It is also recommended to fill the pillow not all at once, but in layers - for example, 20 cm each. In this case, each layer is well compacted separately. The procedure will make the base as dense as possible. Before compacting, the pillow is moistened with water. The thickness of the expanded clay layer can be at least 10 cm. This layer is also compacted separately.
Prices for popular models of electric vibratory rammers
electric vibrating rammer
Layer of rough screed and waterproofing
Another important stage when creating a rough screed, this is its waterproofing. If it is neglected, then the moisture seeping from the soil will “undermine” the concrete screed and as a result the foundation will become unusable and collapse, or at least will last for a very short period of time.
For waterproofing rough screeds it is usually used roll materials– others in this case will be ineffective. The ideal option is to use rolled bitumen material or a waterproofing membrane. Less commonly, but still used, dense polyethylene. The material must be laid in one large piece. If it is necessary to form joints (in the case of large areas), then they are carefully sealed - soldered or taped with construction tape so that water has no chance of penetrating to the base.
Attention! Waterproofing material must not have defects - holes, otherwise it will not fulfill its role.
It is important to lay the waterproofing material in such a way that it extends 15-20 cm onto the walls. If necessary, after laying the finishing screed, the excess can be cut off. If the waterproofing material cannot be laid for some reason, then the final screed must be treated coating materials, which can resist and retain moisture.
Thermal insulation
In order to make the floors as warm as possible, it is important not to skip the thermal insulation stage. Expanded clay, basalt wool, and extruded polystyrene foam are used as materials that help retain heat. Laying the material is simple - slabs or layers of any of them are mounted end-to-end, without gaps, on a surface insulated from water. In this way, it will be possible to obtain a base that maximally retains the heat that tends to leave the house.
Attention! After laying the insulation material, it is recommended to lay another layer of waterproofing. This will allow you to fill the screed evenly and protect the insulation as much as possible from getting wet in the event of flooding. Wet insulation often loses most their properties.
The most convenient and simplest option, but not the cheapest, is polystyrene foam. In addition to its thermal insulation functions, it makes floors stronger. Polystyrene foam can also be used as insulation. In this case, PSB50 grade material is used for garages and warehouses, and PSB35 is used for residential premises.
It is important to protect polystyrene foam from contact with cement, which can destroy the material. To do this, the foam must be covered with plastic film. But mineral wool has one drawback that sometimes scares off builders - it tends to absorb moisture, which is why waterproofing measures must be carried out especially carefully.
Reinforcement
Reinforcement is an additional strengthening of the rough screed by laying a reinforcing mesh in it. This material, created from metal rods or plastic, can significantly strengthen the base and allow it to withstand maximum loads. The mesh is laid on top of the previously installed layers on small supports, so that when pouring the screed, it appears to be inside the cement-sand mixture, and not under it. If the mesh has not been raised, it will not perform its functions of strengthening the base. The approximate height of raising the mesh level is about 2-3 cm. It is recommended to use a mesh with a cell size of no more than 10x10 cm. smaller size cells, the stronger the base will be, this is especially true in relation to plastic mesh, which is also often used in construction.
Fiber fiber for concrete screed- replaces reinforcement with metal mesh
You can achieve your goals in construction different ways. Paul is no exception. One of the simple, effective and reliable methods is considered to be a concrete floor on the ground in a private house.
The technology for installing floors on the ground is available, but requires strict adherence to the rules, which will be discussed below. The choice in favor of this method is due to the following advantages:
- Floors on the ground in a private house can be made with your own hands, without using expensive lifting equipment to install reinforced concrete floors.
- Available materials are used, the acquisition and delivery of which is not difficult.
- Economic benefit. The cost of installing a floor on the ground using this method can cost the owner of a future home significantly less than using other methods.
- High quality. When designing, the desired characteristics of a concrete floor on the ground in a private house are laid down.
- There is no need to attract additional labor.
- Having general construction work skills, you can do all the work yourself.
Starting construction, one of the most important conditions for many homeowners is reasonable estimated cost. For this reason, many try to do affordable operations in a private home with their own hands. Detailed step-by-step instructions will help you realize this desire. At the same time, the recommendations will allow you to avoid typical mistakes and achieve optimal results. performance characteristics.
Using a ready-made reinforced concrete floor, the labor intensity of the process is reduced, but its costs for the purchase, transportation, and payment for lifting equipment increase sharply. Many people try to avoid a significant increase in costs by working independently.
Necessary materials for a concrete floor on the ground
It is advisable to purchase everything needed for work at a time. Professional builders know that transportation costs can exceed 10% of the estimated cost of the object. Sometimes paying for delivery of missing materials can cost more than the materials themselves. Therefore, it is important to correctly determine the list of components and calculate them required amount everyone.
One of the key questions is how to insulate a concrete floor in a private house? The best solution today it is considered to be used polystyrene foam boards. Mineral wool is used much less frequently because it is too elastic and flexible. In exceptional cases, its use is allowed, but only when laid in the cells of a specially prepared sheathing or in the space between the joists. Then a subfloor is made from boards and sheet materials.
The work becomes more labor-intensive if you decide to use this material on floors. Insulation on a concrete floor that can withstand the planned load without additional operations is preferable.
In addition, the estimated cost increases significantly without a noticeable improvement in performance characteristics. The only indicator where there is a clear advantage is sound insulation. But the ground is not a source of noise, so when choosing insulation for the floor, you shouldn’t think about it.
This advantage is completely devalued. In the vast majority of cases today, concrete floor insulation is done with foamed polystyrene. This is justified by the following characteristics:
- economic benefit;
- sufficient strength;
- reliability of the material;
- long service life;
- environmental Safety;
- resistance to rotting, corrosion, mold, moss and other microorganisms;
- Expanded polystyrene insulation for concrete floors is easy to process, which makes it convenient for independent work.
Such a thermal insulation layer is not hygroscopic, but slight surface and capillary penetration is still observed. Floor insulation in this situation will lose its effectiveness over the years. Repeated seasonal freezing cycles can damage the material.
Thermal insulation of a concrete floor needs to be protected from moisture entering it, both ground and water from the solution when installing the screed. A wide selection of waterproofing materials will create a reliable barrier to liquid. Rolled and sheet products of this category on a polymer or bitumen basis are used. The quantity is calculated taking into account overlaps and waste during cutting.
Main consumables by weight is a concrete mixture. You can accurately determine the number of required components in a simple way. Without delving into the essence of complex professional formulas, experienced craftsmen use the following technique - 1 m 3 of the following grades of concrete contains cement:
- M 150 - 260 kg (cement M 300);
- M 200 - 290 kg (cement M 300), 250 kg (cement M 400) and 220 kg (cement M 500);
- M 250 - 340 kg (cement M 300), 300 kg (cement M 400) and 250 kg (cement M 500);
- M 300 - 350 kg (cement M 400) and 300 kg (cement M 500);
- M 400 - 400 kg (cement M 400) and 330 kg (cement M 500);
However, in terms of volume, this value can reach a difference of 6-7 times. Depending on the brand of cement, as well as the desired quality of concrete, crushed stone is imported at the rate of 4 to 7 tons per 1 ton of binder.
Soil compaction
The most important stage of work, on which the final quality and long service life of the floor depend. In cases of high soil density and low groundwater levels, this operation can be ignored. Compacting the soil simply won't work. If the site was graded with the movement of layers of soil, trees were uprooted, and other vegetation was removed, then compaction must be done.
The manual process is extremely labor intensive. To perform the operation efficiently, a special device is made - manual tamper. Weight and size are selected based on your own capabilities. It is advisable to use this method for small amounts of work or to use it in hard-to-reach places.
The optimal solution would be to use an electric or pneumatic rammer. The speed of work and its quality increase manifold. The next stage - insulating a concrete floor in a private house will be easier to do. A smooth, dense surface is an ideal basis for a thermal insulation layer, the integrity of which during operation will determine the comfort in the home and protection from the penetration of cold.
The quality of soil compaction will increase significantly if, between operations to physically compact the soil, the area is thoroughly watered with water. The number of voids is minimized. Soil softened by moisture requires less physical effort when performing the operation.
If an underground floor is planned, then it is done first. In a private home this is always the desired room. It is convenient for storing food, storing tools, equipment for cultivating land, and items used seasonally.
Even if it is not possible to make a full-fledged basement under the entire house, a small volume of several cubic meters can be done without difficulty. A convenient entrance is designed, walls are made using masonry or monolithic pouring. As a base for further layers of coating, you can install wooden ceiling, or make a concrete floor using the formwork.
Sand and gravel layer for concrete floor
It is not recommended to skip this step. Dense soil cannot be considered a guarantee of the final quality of work. A layer of sand and gravel compensates for the natural movement of the soil and relieves the internal stresses that arise. The scope of work largely depends on the quality of the soil. In some cases, on rocky soil, it is enough to add sand about 10 cm thick.
If the soil is clayey, then it is advisable to supplement the layer with gravel or crushed stone. Soil used for agricultural purposes or with developed natural vegetation requires a different approach.
For example, black soil must be completely cleared of roots. After compaction, gravel is laid. Then sand is poured onto it. After spilling water, tamp again. Another layer of crushed stone is laid. The final leveling is carried out using sand level. This multi-layer base completely eliminates possible problems when operating housing on soft soils.
The final stage of the work will be to check the entire area horizontally, inspect for the absence of sharp stones and other objects that could damage the waterproofing layer laid on the prepared sand and gravel base under load. The method of laying a rough screed on top of crushed stone, which is then waterproofed and insulated, looks more reliable and of higher quality.
It is recommended to carry out this and the next stage as carefully as possible. The mobility of the sand and gravel layer is high. The best way to protect its integrity will be the foresight of laid boards or sheets. The load is distributed evenly over a large area and will remain flat for subsequent installation of insulation.
Waterproofing layer
The main purpose of the operation is to protect the insulation from moisture. The layer is located above the soil freezing level. If water gets in, it will begin to deteriorate and reduce its performance.
The film is laid with the necessary overlap. Then the joints are sealed. Bitumen-based waterproofing insulators are generously treated with a ready-made adhesive solution or, in the case of using the fusing method, the material is liquefied with a burner to the required state. Good waterproofing will protect the layer floor insulation for concrete from unwanted exposure to moisture, and most importantly, it will allow you not to worry about the condition of the insulation under the concrete layer.
Laying insulation
A layer of 8-10 cm is considered sufficient to effectively protect your home from the cold. The main rule of this stage is the creation of a single area, without cracks and gaps. How to insulate a concrete floor in a private house, observing the recommended characteristics?
You should know that gaps of even a few millimeters increase heat loss by 10-30%. There are several effective ways to fix this problem:
- cut out parts as accurately as possible, achieving a tight fit;
- use special adhesives to create a sealed layer;
- lay insulation boards using polyurethane foam, which, having a porous structure similar to the main materials, provides maximum efficiency thermal protection.
Experienced craftsmen can easily eliminate large chips and cracks in the insulation coating with crushed polystyrene foam mixed with adhesive composition. With this method, the effectiveness of thermal protection is practically not reduced, since the mixture has characteristics identical to the base materials.
Waterproofing before pouring concrete
In order for concrete floors in a private house to provide reliable protection for housing and serve for a long time, it is necessary to prevent moisture from getting into the insulation. To do this, a waterproofing layer is made on top of the polystyrene boards. Optimal materials There are special films for this operation. Their strength characteristics allow you to pour screed of the required thickness. The material is elastic and easily takes the desired shape.
The use of bitumen-based surfacing materials is highly discouraged at this stage. The temperature of such compositions is high and can damage polystyrene foam. Burner operation is completely eliminated.
The joints are carefully taped with a special tape or the recommended composition. Waterproofing films with a layer of adhesive applied to them are popular today. Simply remove the protective paper or polymer material, lay the waterproofing, pressing it tightly to the surface, observing the overlap dimensions specified in the instructions.
Pouring screed and reinforcement
The last stage of work before finishing the floors. The solution is prepared according to traditional technology. Depending on the brand of cement and the desired characteristics of the screed, it may have a different composition. However, experimentation is not recommended to avoid loss of quality.
Too much a large number of cement will make the concrete too brittle and prone to cracking. If its percentage is less than the norm, then the screed will turn out to be too loose and fragile. When installing a heated floor, the design will be very efficient, since there will be virtually no energy loss.
There are several ways to reinforce a screed. The work can be done in two stages. First, the soil layer is laid. Reinforcing elements are mounted on it. Then the final pouring completes the process. It should be remembered that the metal must be located in the body of the screed.
If you lay reinforcement directly over the waterproofing layer, the strength of the layer decreases. Concreting can be carried out in one operation, when the metal is knitted on specially placed spacers that raise the layer above the base to the required height.
To reinforce the concrete layer, you can use existing ones on the farm. hardware. For example, angles, channels, other types of rolled products left over after the construction of utility structures, old water supply and heating pipes, etc.
In the process of construction and arrangement basements, garages, various outbuildings, and sometimes even residential premises (of course, in regions with a warm, mild climate), developers often prefer technology that involves installing a concrete floor on the ground.
After reading the information below, you will receive all the necessary information to independently carry out the event in question, refusing to involve third-party craftsmen in this work and significantly saving on the construction of the floor.
Before giving preference to the device technology of the design in question, familiarize yourself with key requirements to the soil shown in the following table.
Table. Soil requirements for constructing a reliable concrete floor
Additionally, requirements are imposed directly on the building itself. It is important that the house is used for permanent residence or at least heated during the cold season. Otherwise, the ground will freeze, causing the concrete structure to deform.
Scheme of floors on the ground for a private house, garage, utility room
Technology for installing concrete floors on the ground
We make the floor after completing the construction of the walls and arranging the roof/floor. The actual work on constructing the structure in question on the ground consists of several technological stages, the execution sequence of which is given below.
First stage. Marking the floor level
First we need to set the zero level of the future floor. To do this we do the following:
Second phase. Clearing and compacting the soil
We move on to the stage of preliminary soil preparation. First we need to get rid of construction waste if available. Next we remove the top ball of soil. Traditionally, the multilayer structure of the concrete floor has a thickness of about 30-35 cm. We dig until the distance between the previously laid zero level line and the bottom of the pit reaches the specified value.
After this, we need to compact and level the surface. Best tool To perform this work, use a special vibrating plate for compacting soil. If there is no such thing, we take a simple log, nail strong handles on top of it, nail a board underneath and use the resulting device to compact the soil. We work until we get a fairly dense and even base. No special checks are required: just walk on the ground and, if there are no depressions left in it from your feet, proceed to further stage work.
Hand digging is never perfectly accurate. If the depth of the pit is greater than the required thickness of the future concrete structure, fill the difference with a layer of sand and compact it thoroughly.
Helpful advice! You can use another solution to the above problem by first laying a layer of clay, pouring it with water, compacting it, filling it with sand and further compacting it. Such a system will provide additional waterproofing of the future concrete structure, preventing groundwater from penetrating into its structure.
Third stage. Making the backfill
We fill in a 5-10 cm layer of gravel. We spill the backfill with water and compact it thoroughly. For greater convenience, we can first drive several rows of scraps of reinforcement or other similar material of the required length into the ground - this will make it easier for us to ensure the required backfill height. It is important that the trimmings are strictly level. After arranging each planned layer, the pegs can be removed.
Place about a 10cm layer of sand on top of the gravel. The pegs from the previous stage will help us control the thickness of the backfill. To carry out this activity, it is not necessary to use sifted material - even gully sand with minor impurities will do. We also compact the sand thoroughly.
Place a layer of crushed stone on top of the sand. A material with a fraction of 4-5 cm is optimal. We compact the crushed stone. Pour a thin layer of sand on top, carefully level it and compact it thoroughly. If we find crushed stone with sharp protruding edges, we remove it or rearrange it so that there are no sharp corners throughout the entire plane.
Important! Each layer of backfill must be level. Similar requirements apply to the layers of the “pie” that are further arranged.
Fourth stage. We install moisture and heat insulation materials
To protect concrete from the harmful effects of moisture, we use a special waterproofing membrane or ordinary polyethylene film. A material with a thickness of 200 microns is optimal. The work is carried out in an extremely simple sequence: we lay out the film on the base, bringing its edges a couple of centimeters above the zero level indicated in the previous stages, lay the insulation sheets directly with a 10-15-centimeter overlap, and fix the joints with tape.
The structure can be insulated using a wide variety of materials, here is just a short list:
- expanded clay;
- mineral wool slabs;
- Styrofoam;
- rolled isolon, etc.
We lay the selected material, following the provisions of the appropriate technology, and proceed to further work.
Fifth stage. We arrange the reinforcing layer
A multilayer concrete structure is subject to mandatory reinforcement. We reinforce the floor with PVC or metal mesh of your choice. Also well suited for solving this problem metal wire and reinforcement bars. They must first be tied into a mesh (we select the size of the cells in accordance with the expected loads: for high ones we take 10x10 cm, for medium ones - 15x15 cm, for low ones 20x20 cm will be enough), using flexible steel wire to fasten the joints.
We lay the reinforcing frame on pre-installed supports having a height of about 20-30 mm.
Important note! In the case of hardening using plastic mesh, the material is pulled onto pegs previously driven into the base.
Sixth stage. We install guides and formwork
Correct filling concrete mixture at zero level is impossible without the use of guides. We do the following:
Important! Before proceeding with the next stage of work, be sure to check the correct installation of the guides and formwork using a level. If there are differences, you simply cannot make a flat floor. To eliminate irregularities, it is enough to trim off the protruding places. You can raise the guides in the right places by placing bars of a suitable size or the same plywood under them.
Be sure to treat before pouring wooden elements special oil. Thanks to this, in the future we will be able to remove the boards from the solution without any difficulty.
Seventh stage. Pour concrete and make a screed
We fill the previously created “maps” with concrete mortar. If possible, we try to fill the entire mass at once - this way we will get the most durable monolithic structure. If you are not able or willing to order ready-mixed concrete, we do it ourselves.
Pouring concrete along beacons (option without maps)
To do this, we will need a concrete mixer or a large suitable container for manual mixing, cement (we use material grades M400-500), a shovel, crushed stone, sand. We work according to the following recipe: 1 share of cement, 2 shares of sand, 4 shares of crushed stone and about 0.5 shares of water (may vary, we will guide you as you work). Thoroughly mix the ingredients until a homogeneous mixture and proceed to further work.
It is most convenient to pour from the angle opposite to front door- V in this case no need to walk on concrete. Fill several cards in 1, maximum 2 steps, level the solution and stretch the mixture. If you have a special vibrator, use it to compact the mixture.
Formwork around pipelines
Having filled out several “cards”, we begin to level the base. The two-meter (or longer) rule will help us with this. We install the tool on the previously mounted guides and pull it towards ourselves. This way we get rid of excess concrete.
We take out the guides and formwork from the processed “cards” (specialists usually do this a day after pouring, some do it earlier, we focus on the situation). In a similar sequence, fill the entire site with concrete. After this, cover the base with plastic wrap and leave it to gain strength for a month. While drying concrete structure You need to regularly moisten it with water to prevent it from cracking.
Finally, all we have to do is fill the screed. To do this, we use a special self-leveling mixture - the most convenient option, the arrangement of which does not require special knowledge and effort.
The leveling mixture will eliminate minor surface imperfections and allow you to obtain a perfectly level base. We traditionally start working from the corner opposite to the entrance to the room.
We prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions, pour it onto the floor and distribute it evenly over the surface using a long rule or other suitable tool. We specify the drying time of the mixture in the instructions, usually it is 2-3 days.
The concrete floor on the ground is ready. All we have to do is place the chosen flooring. Thanks to a properly arranged, level base, the finish will look beautiful and last as long as possible.
Now you know everything about installing a concrete floor on the ground and will be able to carry out the necessary measures yourself. You just need to follow the guide and everything will definitely work out.
Happy work!
Video - Installation of a concrete floor on the ground
The simplest and in an accessible way To perform a rough covering for a room of any purpose is to install a concrete floor on the ground. Although the procedure does not require special skills, the quality of the final floor directly depends on compliance with certain technical aspects associated with its arrangement. We will discuss below how to make a concrete floor on the ground and how to pour a concrete floor on the ground.
Characteristics and components of a concrete floor on the ground
When installing any floor on the ground, the main thing is to ensure high-quality thermal insulation. It is precisely because of its installation that in the end it is possible to obtain a multi-layer floor, called a pie.
The production of floors on the ground directly depends on the type of soil and its characteristics. The first and most important requirement for the soil is the level at which groundwater is located, which should be at least 500-600 cm from the surface. In this way, it will be possible to avoid movement and heaving of the soil, which will be reflected on the floor. In addition, the soil should not be loose.
For better performance of all work, it is necessary to determine the requirements for installing thermal insulation, which are as follows:
- prevention of heat loss;
- protection against groundwater penetration;
- providing sound insulation;
- prevention of vaporization;
- ensuring a comfortable and healthy indoor microclimate.
A warm concrete floor on the ground contains the following components and stages of work:
1. Cleaning the soil from the top layer. In addition, the surface is carefully leveled.
3. Then a bed of gravel or crushed stone is installed on the sand. It is this area that prevents the rise of groundwater, in addition, it additionally levels the surface. The thickness of the filler layer is about eight centimeters.
4. The next layer is the use of reinforced steel mesh. It is an excellent fixer for concrete bases. In addition, it is a place for fixing metal pipes. Reinforced mesh is not used in all cases, but only when additional reinforcement is necessary.
5. The next layer is more than 5 cm thick and is the subfloor. Concrete solution is used for its arrangement. After it gains strength within 2-3 weeks, the next layer of “pie” is installed on the surface.
6. This layer contains a special membrane or waterproofing film, which prevents the risk of absorbing excess liquid concrete base. The film is laid with an overlap; to avoid the appearance of cracks, construction tape is used to seal all joint areas.
7. The next stage is the installation of insulation, for which it is recommended to use foamed polystyrene foam or high-density polystyrene coated with foil. If there is too much load on the floor, it is better to use insulation in the form of slabs.
8. Next, waterproofing or roofing felt is installed. After which the construction of the true screed is carried out. It is on it that the final finishing coat. The thickness of this layer is from 8 to 11 cm. This screed requires mandatory reinforcement.
Concrete floor in a house on the ground: advantages and disadvantages of arrangement
Among the advantages of making a concrete floor on the ground are:
- security reliable protection bases from the effects of low temperatures, the soil on which the floor is installed always differs only in temperature above zero;
- diversity thermal insulation materials for floor insulation allows you to build a structure with good performance preventing heat loss;
- the resulting floor is finished with any of the existing floor coverings;
- no special calculations are required for the floor, since the entire load is taken by the ground covering;
- installing heated floors perfectly heats the room; in addition, they heat up quickly enough, and the heat is distributed evenly throughout the room;
- heated floors on the ground have good sound insulation characteristics;
- In addition, mold and dampness practically do not form on such a floor.
Among the disadvantages of a rough concrete floor on the ground are:
- when using a multi-layer floor, the height of the rooms is significantly reduced;
- if problems occur, dismantling work will require a lot of material resources;
- arranging a floor on the ground requires a large investment of material, physical and time resources;
- If the groundwater is too high or the soil is very loose, it is not possible to install such a floor.
Construction of a concrete floor on the ground: selection of materials
As mentioned earlier, to install a concrete floor on the ground, you will need to build a multi-layer structure. It is recommended to use river sand as the first layer, followed by crushed stone or expanded clay.
After their installation, the rough screed is installed, waterproofing film and thermal insulation. Next, a finishing screed is installed, which is the basis for laying finishing materials.
The main function of sand and crushed stone is to protect the room from moisture penetration. When using crushed stone, it must be thoroughly compacted, and the crushed stone must be treated with bitumen.
If the soil is too wet, the use of expanded clay is unacceptable. Because it absorbs excess moisture and then changes its shape. After covering the layer with a polyethylene-based film, a rough screed is poured in a layer of about eight centimeters. Next, waterproofing is installed on it from two polyethylene layers laid overlapping. Please note that the polyethylene must be very tightly connected to each other to prevent moisture from entering the room.
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- mineral wool;
- foam glass;
- polystyrene foam, etc.
After this, a finishing screed is constructed, which is necessarily reinforced. To ensure the evenness of the screed, it is recommended to use beacons.
Concrete floor on the ground manufacturing technology
The construction of the floor should begin only after the walls and roof have already been erected. Manufacturing procedure concrete covering on the ground includes the following stages:
- carrying out work to determine the height of the floor and marking it;
- cleaning the top layer of soil and compacting the base;
- installation of gravel or crushed stone;
- hydro- and thermal insulation works;
- strengthening the concrete screed;
- installation of formwork for pouring mortar;
- direct filling.
The ground floor is lined up so that it is flush with the doorway. Markings should be applied around the perimeter of the building. To do this, marks are placed on the walls at a distance of 100 cm from the bottom of the opening. When the marking is completed, you should lower it back one meter. This line will become a guide for pouring concrete. To make marking easier, you should install pegs in the corner parts of the room on which the ropes are tensioned.
The next stage of work involves clearing the base from the top layer of soil. First you need to get rid of any debris on the floor. Gradually remove all top part soil. The concrete floor on the ground has the appearance of a structure, up to 35 cm thick. Therefore, the soil that is removed from the surface must be exactly this thickness.
Using special equipment, such as a vibrating plate, the surface is compacted. If it is not available, it is enough to use wooden log, with handles previously nailed to it. The resulting base should be even and dense. There should be no marks left on it while walking.
If the soil is located lower than the doorway, only the upper part is removed, the surface is compacted well, and then covered with sand.
Next, work is carried out on the installation of gravel and crushed stone. After compacting the base layer, gravel is backfilled; the thickness of this layer is about 10 cm. Tip: After filling, the surface is watered and compacted again. To simplify control over the evenness of the surface, it is necessary to drive pegs into the ground, set in relation to the level.
After the gravel layer, leveling is done with sand. The layer should have the same thickness, about 10 cm. In order to control the evenness of the surface, use the same pegs. To construct this layer, it is recommended to use ravine sand, which has various impurities.
Crushed stone is laid on the sand, with a fraction of 4x5 cm. Next, it is compacted, and the surface is sprinkled with sand, leveled and compacted. Lay the crushed stone in such a way as to avoid the appearance of protruding edges on the surface.
Please note that each of the layers laid on the floor must first be checked for horizontalness. Therefore, during the work process, use a building level.
Thermal and waterproofing of concrete floors on the ground
To create a waterproofing layer, it is sufficient to use a polyethylene film or membrane. The waterproofing material should be rolled out along the entire perimeter of the floor, try to extend its outermost sections a few centimeters beyond the zero designations. The sheets are overlapped and fixed to the surface with tape.
In order to improve the thermal insulation of the floor and prevent the ground from freezing, it is recommended to treat the floor with mineral wool.
Features of reinforcing a concrete floor on the ground
In order for concrete to acquire the required strength, it must be reinforced. To perform this process, it is recommended to use a metal or plastic mesh, reinforcement bars or reinforcing wire.
To install the reinforcing frame, special stands should be equipped, the height of which is about 2.5 cm. Thus, they will be located directly on the concrete floor.
Please note that using a plastic mesh involves stretching it over previously hammered pegs. When using wire, the manufacture of a reinforcing frame will require welding and skill in working with it.
In order for the pouring procedure to go quickly and the result to be of high quality, the guides should be installed and the formwork mounted. Divide the room into several equal sections, the width of which is no more than 200 cm. Install guides in the form of wooden blocks, the height of which is equal to the distance from the floor to the zero mark.
To fix the guides, use thick cement, clay or sand mortar. Formwork is installed between the guides, which forms cards filled with concrete mortar. It is recommended to use moisture-resistant plywood or wooden boards as formwork.
Please note that the guides and formwork are brought to zero and aligned with the horizontal surface. In this way, it will be possible to obtain a base that is even. Before installing the guides and formwork, they should be treated with a special oil, which will facilitate the procedure of pulling them out of the concrete mixture.
Technology of pouring a concrete floor on the ground
Filling is carried out once or maximum twice. Thus, it will be possible to build a homogeneous and powerful structure. In order for the concrete floor on the ground to serve its owners with their own hands for a long time, it is best to order a special concrete solution from the factory. Its strength and quality are much higher than those prepared at home.
For self-made the solution will require a concrete mixer, cement grade of at least 400, river sand and filler in the form of crushed stone.
In order to prepare a concrete solution, you should mix one part of cement, two parts of sand and four parts of filler, and, based on the total amount of ingredients, half of the part of water will be required.
All ingredients are mixed in a concrete mixer, make sure that all ingredients are mixed well together. Start pouring the floor from an area opposite to the entrance to the room. Fill three or four cards at once, and then use a shovel to level the composition over the entire surface.
To ensure good adhesion of concrete to the surface, it is recommended to use a hand-held concrete vibrator.
After most of the cards are filled, it is necessary to perform a rough leveling of the surface. For these purposes, you will need a rule two meters wide, which stretches smoothly across the floor. This rule will help get rid of excess concrete that ends up in empty cards. After leveling, remove the formwork and fill the remaining areas with mortar.
After leveling the entire floor area, cover the floor with polyethylene film and leave for a month. Please note that after several days, the surface is constantly moistened with water to avoid drying out of the concrete, the formation of cracks and looseness of the base.
The final stage involves treating the floor using mixtures on a self-leveling basis, which are used to equip the screed. It is the mixture that will help make the base perfectly smooth and eliminate minor surface irregularities.
Work also begins from the corner opposite the door; it is recommended to use a shovel to apply the solution, and a rule to level the base.
The floor is left to settle for 72 hours. Next, the floor is ready for laying finishing materials for flooring. It is this type of concrete floors on the ground in a private house that will provide a strong and durable foundation.
Concrete floors on the ground video:
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