Chain-link mesh is an ideal material for building a lightweight fence or fence. The sun's rays perfectly pass through it, so it can often be found when fencing beds and gardens. It is also often used to divide the territories of neighboring plots. Installing a fence using a chain-link mesh does not require special knowledge and skills. In order to put up such a fence, it is enough just to study the technology of its construction. And everyone can handle the construction directly.
Mesh netting - what kind of "fruit"
The chain-link is a metal construction raw material, durable and inexpensive, when compared with wood or corrugated board. You can buy such a grid in any hardware store. It is produced in a roll. This is one of the advantages of acquiring such material, it is very convenient to transport it.
Hire specialized construction teams there is no need to install a chain-link fence. Even a schoolboy can build it. And this can be done in two ways: sectional installation and material tension method.
To the benefits this material include the following qualities:
- it is an inexpensive material.
- no special skills are needed to build a fence from it. Building is easy and simple.
- the site is not hidden from the sun.
- the netting is different long term services.
- to decorate such a fence, you can let it grow climbing plants.
- having put such a fence, you will not need to repair it, tint it, etc.
Everything would be fine, but such material also has disadvantages:
- it's hard to hide privacy behind a mesh. To do this, it needs to be decorated, for example, with climbing plants.
- no sound deadening properties.
- if you put a non-galvanized mesh, then it quickly rusts.
Grid types (table)
| Type name | Description | A photo |
| Non-galvanized net | Most cheap material from those presented. They make only temporary fences with it, because rust quickly appears on it, often even immediately, as soon as the first rains pass. Its service life is no more than three or four years. Of course, such a mesh can be painted or coated with water-repellent agents. But this needs to be repeated with some frequency. And as a result, it can cost much more than purchasing a galvanized look. | |
| galvanized net | It is initially protected from moisture. Visually more attractive when compared with the previous chain-link. It looks beautiful on a sectional fence. Naturally, it costs a little more than the non-galvanized version. But the sheepskin is worth the candle. This option is much more practical, because its service life is many times longer, and you don’t need to tint it. | |
| plasticized | Grid with a special polymer coating that is not subject to corrosion. Such a coating is not only very durable, but also has a wide color scheme. It is possible to choose a color that will match, for example, the roof of the house. Most often you can see the blue and green chain-link. Less often red, white or yellow |
What materials need to be purchased, drawing
Pay attention to the choice of support columns. The most convenient metal pipes with a square section. There are pipes on which the manufacturer himself has already welded hooks for the net. Some use old pipes, on which these hooks are welded on their own.
Calculation of the required amount of materials
Most often, a net 150 centimeters wide with cells of 4–5 centimeters is used to erect a fence. The length of a standard roll is 10 meters. In order to prevent sagging of the fence, the support posts are installed at a distance of 200-250 centimeters from each other. Therefore, five posts are needed for one roll. Support posts should stick out above the ground 100 millimeters above the chain-link mesh. They should go into the ground 1/3 of their length.
Now it is clear that for the construction, for example, of a 30-meter fence, it is necessary to purchase 3 rolls of chain-link and 16 poles 230–150 centimeters long. Each post must have at least three hooks. If they are on the pillars initially, then no problem. And if they are not, then they need to be welded. Therefore, we multiply 16 pillars by 3 hooks for each, we get 48 hooks. They need to be purchased and attached to the poles using a welding machine.
If the fence is planned to be sectional, then the number of sections is set on the basis that the length of one is 200–250 centimeters, the width is 150 centimeters. Knowing these parameters, we can calculate required amount metal corners, which, by the way, also have recommended requirements. It is most convenient to use corners 4x4 centimeters, the thickness of which is 5 millimeters.
We put a tension fence from the chain-link
A tension fence can be delivered much faster than a sectional one and at a cost it will be less expensive. To build a fence, you just need to mark the territory, prepare pits for supporting posts, install these posts and mount the mesh on hooks. Let's consider the process in stages.
Even if you really stretched the mesh very well, it will still sag over time. To avoid this, you just need to pass reinforcing wire or long steel bars through the cells of the chain-link. They must be passed through the cells through the entire perimeter of the fence, leaving 50–70 millimeters from the upper edge of the mesh, and welded to the supporting posts.
Some thread such a wire along the lower edge of the chain-link, 200 millimeters from the surface of the earth.
Do-it-yourself sectional fence
First you need to mark up and install the support posts. The process is practically the same as the previous one. Unless, on the posts, not hooks are attached, but special metal plates measuring 150x50 millimeters and 5 millimeters thick. They must be welded one at a time from above and below the support column, retreating 200 millimeters from the edge.
When welding the section to the supports, try to place the welding points on the same level. Even the smallest deviation will be clearly visible and the aesthetic appearance will be lost.
We decorate the fence (table)
| decoration option | Description | A photo |
| colored netting | This is the easiest way to personalize your fence. You can paint it yourself or buy it already painted. This also includes plasticized mesh. A competent choice of shade will perfectly complement the overall design of your site. | |
| climbing plants | This method is also quite simple and popular with summer residents. On the grid, you can put bindweed, clitis or morning glory. Netting is a very good support for these types of plants. Thus, a boring fence, as it were, comes to life and is transformed. Naturally, it looks beautiful only in the warm season. In winter, the fence will lose its attractiveness. Such a fence will hide your privacy from neighbor's eyes for a while. | |
| Plant trees and shrubs around the perimeter | This option, like the previous one, is classified as " hedge". Only some types of plants remain green in the cold, and the fence will not lose its attractiveness. They plant thuja, yew, climbing rose, wild rose, spirea. Often the choice falls on fruit-bearing plants, for example, blackberries, barberries, chokeberry and others. Naturally, such a fence needs constant care. it decoration fence, too, like the previous one, will cover you from the eyes passing by | |
| Decorative netting | There is a company in Denmark that manufactures fences. It was they who came up with such a network. In it, the wire is woven in such a way that various patterns are obtained, from a distance similar to lace. | |
| garden on the fence | You can easily hang various pots and containers for flowers on the grid. Sometimes garden plants are planted in them. The second option will appeal to those who have a small land plot. As a result, it’s both beautiful and useful, and because of the fence no one sees what you are doing on the site | |
| Street art | Many people have old skeins of knitting thread at home. They can be "cross-stitched" on the fence mesh. Thus, interesting, individual and bright fences are obtained. This decoration option is gaining its popularity in Europe and is already considered urban art. Why not decorate our fences in this way. What's more, it's pretty cheap. | |
| photogrid | The use of a polymer mesh with an image printed on it will help in a very short time to give the fence an individual and beautiful view. It is durable, not afraid of bad weather, the color does not fade. The pattern on the grid is located on one side only. On the other hand, the netting is white. |
Video: self-assembly of a chain-link fence
Self installation such a fence simple process. Now you know it. Such a fence is cheap, beautiful (if decorated), easy to install, durable. In general, what many of us need. Good luck!
Installing a chain-link fence is considered the most popular option for arranging a metal fence around a private house, country cottage and many other objects. Its cost is low, and the installation of such a fence can be done by hand.
1 Varieties of chain-link mesh for fences
The grid of interest to us is currently represented at construction market in three variations:
The designated grid types can have cells of different shapes (diamond-shaped and rectangular are popular), which are described by various geometric parameters (standard size cells varies between 2.5–6 centimeters). For fencing land and summer cottages installation of a grid with cells of 4–5 centimeters is recommended.
2 Installing a chain-link fence - what materials will be required?
Do-it-yourself installation of fences of this type does not cause difficulties even for those people who rarely do something on their own. The main thing is to correctly calculate and purchase everything right amount grids and additional materials. The latter include:
- concrete (usually used material is an inexpensive brand M200);
- special mounts;
- pillars made of metal, wood or concrete.
In most cases, the installation of chain-link fences is carried out using metal supports. Such pillars are considered to be the most reliable and truly durable. Experts advise purchasing square or round poles with a cross section of 6–12 centimeters.
When doing work with their own hands, resourceful citizens use the old ones as supports, which significantly reduces the cost of installing the fence. But it's better to buy finished poles produced specifically for arranging fences. Special hooks are initially welded to such supports (usually they are sold in painted form).
It makes sense to use wood poles only in cases where it is planned to install a temporary fence or if there is a free (very cheap) wooden material. Please note that it is imperative to remove the bark from the support beams and poles, and the part of the tree that will be buried in the ground must be carefully coated with mastic with high waterproofing properties.
Concrete poles are in no way inferior to metal poles in many respects (they do not rust, they are very durable, so they can literally stand for centuries), but their cost is quite high. In addition, it is not easy to attach the mesh to such supports - it is required to braid concrete structure steel cable, use clamps. This greatly complicates the installation.
There are two ways to equip a chain-link fence with your own hands:
- fix the wire in sections (frames) made of a metal corner;
- stretch the mesh between the supports.
Mounting sectional fence, as you understand, requires additional costs. But in terms of aesthetics, it looks more preferable. But the second option for arranging a fence with your own hands can be implemented much faster without investing excessive finances in the fence. That is what we will consider in more detail.
3 How is the installation of tension fences made of chain-link mesh?
At the first stage of execution installation work area needs to be marked. For these purposes, small pegs should be placed at the corners of the site, a cord or construction thread should be taken and pulled between the stakes. The resulting length of the thread will tell us how many meters of chain-link mesh you need to purchase (we advise you to add a couple more meters of wire just in case).
After that, we will decide on the places where we will drive in the supports. It is recommended to install poles at a distance of 2.5 meters from each other ( greater distance cannot be taken, since the mesh we use is a bending material). To calculate the number of supports needed, we measure the length of each side of the future fence and divide the resulting number by 2.5. If your fence will have overall length 50 meters, you will need exactly 20 support posts, if 60 meters - 30, and so on.
The installation of the pillars is carried out in prepared recesses in the ground (they can be made with an ordinary shovel and a drill). Optimal depth pits - 120-150 centimeters. Please note that you must first install the supports at the corners of the site, and only then mount other poles. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the pipe recesses (in an even layer), it is tamped, and then a layer of ordinary sand is added and tamping is also performed.
In properly prepared pits, we begin to put poles. This must be done strictly vertically (it is best to use a plumb line). After that, the recesses with pipes are filled with a solution made of cement (two parts), sand (one part), crushed stone (one part) and water. First, sand and cement are mixed, then crushed stone and water are added. The mixture must be thoroughly mixed to obtain a not very liquid, but not "cool" solution.
After the installation of all the pillars is completed, the first stage of work on arranging the fence with your own hands can be considered completed. Concrete will take 6-8 days to harden.
In principle, it is possible to fill the support pipes not with concrete mortar, but use a mixture of soil with rubble stone. Then you do not have to wait a week until the concrete hardens. But in this case the pillars may not hold so securely, so it is better to use a solution of concrete, gravel and sand.
4 Features of the process of stretching the mesh and its attachment to the supports
After drying concrete mortar we are starting the second stage of arranging a reliable fence on our site. To start with manual arc welding we weld hooks on the supports. Hooks can be made from any metal material, which you have (pieces of steel bars, thick wire, ordinary nails, and so on).
When the hooks are welded, we straighten the roll of the chain-link mesh and proceed to its tension. The operation should start from the corner support. We hang the mesh on the welded fasteners. In the very first row, it is advisable to thread a reinforcing bar or a thick one (diameter - about 4 millimeters). In order for the fence not to bend down and sag, the wire or rod is welded to the pole.
Then we unwind the required mesh footage, thread the bar (wire) vertically into it at some distance from the connection zone of the support and the mesh, and begin to stretch our fence. This operation must be carried out by two people.
After tensioning, it will be necessary to install a thick wire (or bar) horizontally at a distance slightly above the bottom edge of the fence and below the top. Now you can weld the rod to the support. By analogy, we perform tension and fastening of all subsequent segments of the grid. Congratulations, you have built a fence with your own hands!
Today, there are many ways to enclose a site using a variety of materials. All of them have their own characteristics, indicators of strength and durability. Building a fence with your own hands in our time is not a problem. There is a wide choice of tools for the available materials and any kinds of works with them. However, all this costs a lot of money and labor costs. Build a fence to mark the boundaries suburban area, building sites from a chain-link mesh are simpler and much more economical than other types of fences.
Chain-link mesh - what kind of fruit
Chain-link - a mesh structural fabric obtained by mutual screwing of wire spirals. She is budget material helping to easily and cheaply solve the issue of limiting the site. It attracts consumers with its numerous advantages and ease of installation.
Characteristic features and its advantages
Mesh netting is a material that is indispensable in the country. It has a huge number of advantages, which include:
- affordable cost. Not every land owner can afford the construction of a fence made of expensive materials. The construction of such fences entails the expenditure of quite tangible funds. Chain-link mesh is inexpensive, does not require construction additional funds, easy to handle;
- The right fabric will last a long time. For several years it will retain its strength, its original attractive appearance, it will not rust or bend;
- installation of the fence, where the chain-link mesh acts as a key element, is carried out quickly and simply;
- installation of a mesh netting is carried out without the participation of complex tools and fasteners;
- installing a chain-link fence is elementary done by hand, because it can be assembled without welding equipment, which not everyone knows how to handle;
- Mesh design allows air to pass easily and does not cast a shadow, allowing plants to grow undisturbed;
- the material encloses the territory, playground or place for animals;
- requires only minor repairs;
- metal mesh fences do not need a capital frame and foundation;
- dampness and temperature fluctuations do not act on the canvas. Resists fire and power loads;
- chain-link fence is immune to ultraviolet radiation;
- the material is not scarce, it is available in all building materials stores that offer chain-link for any purpose.
Except positive qualities material has a number of disadvantages. This is his transparency and discreet appearance, as well as the need for constant renewal of the paint layer. If the product is chosen correctly, some of the shortcomings simply lose their relevance.
Which chain-link is better for a fence and its types
To choose the right blank for the fence, you need to study the parameters of the feedstock. These are the material, the type of spraying and the size of the cells. The chain-link is made of stainless steel and other metals. The stainless steel gives the web its rigidity, and when the mesh material is made from alternative metals, it bends well.
non-galvanized
The non-galvanized chain-link has a wire cross section of 1.2-5.0 mm, the size of the cells is from 50 to 100 mm. The mesh is cheap, but the metal is not coated protective film, quickly loses its appearance and rusts, so it must be tinted, creating protection from moisture.
galvanized
This mesh is made of rods with a cross section of 1.6-5.0 mm, with cells from 50 to 100 mm. The material does not require protection, including anti-corrosion. Galvanizing is carried out by hot or electrolytic methods, giving the material additional strength.
plasticized
At the heart of the plasticized mesh - metal wire coated with polymers. Wire thickness - 2.5-2.8 mm, mesh size - from 25 to 50 mm. Such a canvas looks presentable, stylish and serves its owners for a very long time. Spray can be different shades, which gives scope for implementation color design of his site.
When buying a material, it is imperative to check the product certificate, because, if you make a mistake, you can get a product that is unable to withstand loads and weather conditions. When choosing a network, it is necessary to take into account that the best size cells for the fence is considered to be 50 × 50 mm. For the purpose of fencing walking areas, pens and enclosures for animals and birds, you should not choose a small comb, as the fence will be too heavy and warp.
The device of fences from a chain-link mesh according to the type of frame
When preparing to put up a frame fence, you need to decide on the elements of the frame and how to attach the chain-link mesh to metal, brick or other pillars.
Tension fence
The tension fence is very easy to make. The technology for installing such a fence involves the following steps: installing poles and preparing a chain-link that is attached to them. The mesh can be pulled manually, but as a result, it will then begin to sag. Installation of a tension mesh fence can be structurally simplified, avoiding subsidence. Broach significantly strengthens the fence. For this, high strength wire is used, it is threaded through the edge of the chain-link, and the mesh does not sag.
A fence made of chain-link mesh in sections is more expensive than a stretch one. A lot of money will be spent on the purchase of additional components, such as a corner for the skeleton. First you need to make sections. The section of the future chain-link fence is an integral unit of the entire fence. True, its formation will take additional time and money. But such a design will be much more reliable than a tension one, it is practical and durable. A hedge of the described type will work well on uneven terrain, besides the construction solid fences from a chain-link mesh possible without pre-training soil.
What poles can be used to build a chain-link fence
It is important which posts will be chosen for the fence. The mesh has a relatively low weight, which makes it possible to use any support.
Metal racks are a versatile option, but such supports will sometimes need to be tinted. A hollow profile goes to the supporting pillars. The production of chain-link fences is carried out using round poles(diameter 60 mm) or rectangular (section 40 × 60 mm).
Another easy way is to make fences on wooden supports from chain-link mesh, but this option has a minus. The tree reacts very poorly to temperature changes, rain and snow. A tree of dense species (oak, elm), which could be suitable for a fence, is very expensive. But a more democratic pine, treated accordingly, can last a long time.
You can put a fence on a brick. Although it will be too expensive for a mesh material. Such supports are usually not used because they need a foundation.
It is quite affordable to make a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands in the country with the use of concrete. Concrete poles are cheaper than brick ones. In the construction hypermarket, you can take ready-made blanks and deliver them. To anchor the grid to concrete pillar, special hooks or welding are applied. It is these fasteners that hold the entire fence. During installation, the mesh must be fixed in a stressed state.
Asbestos-cement pipes can also serve as excellent fence supports. The material has affordable price and doesn't rot. However, the installation of the grid will require additional clamps and clips. Pipes require plugs that cover their tops from moisture. Otherwise, the pipes will break when low temperatures. The number of supports is commensurate with the size of the territory and the specifics of the area. The optimal distance between the posts is approximately 2.5 m.
How to make a chain link fence. Blueprints
The construction of a chain-link fence does not require any special knowledge and skills. To get started, you need to assemble a set the right tools armed with handbooks. Construction is carried out in two ways:
- using welding;
- without welding.
Not every owner of private land knows how to work with welding equipment, so it is better to prefer construction technology without welding. The structure erected in this way will not be inferior to welded in strength. Tools and materials for work:
- chain-link mesh of any variety, depending on the desire of the owner and the available funds;
- poles for supports (metal, wooden, concrete);
- special hooks for fastening;
- crushed stone, cement, sand;
- building level, shovel, tape measure, drill, hammer;
- screws, nails, bolts.
Before starting construction, you should prepare a drawing or sketch of the finished fence, taking into account important points.
- The main features of the terrain of the site with nearby roads, the location of vegetation, existing buildings.
- Specific features: the presence of slopes and hills. The information will help you decide what to do next - level the landscape or build a special fence (cascade).
- Fence length. Its width is determined by the grid parameters.
- The breakdown of the length into segments separated by supports. Drawing their location.
The design includes an important point about choosing the type of fence and the basis for the mesh, as well as whether fence sections will be made and used from the selected chain-link mesh.
Calculation of the required amount
The footage of the purchased product (grid) is calculated based on the length of the perimeter. The chain-link is sold in rolls (10 running meters). Average prices:
- galvanized chain-link (50 × 50 × 2 mm) - 54 rubles per square meter;
- non-galvanized chain-link (50 × 50 × 2 mm) - 48 rubles per square meter;
- with the application of polymers (50 × 50 × 2.2 mm) - from 220 rubles per square meter.
The length of the wire for stretching is equal to the perimeter multiplied by two. In the case when an additional chord in the middle is conceived, - by three. The number of supports is calculated based on the length and width of the site. The standard distance between supports is approximately 2.5 meters. If you set a larger distance, the mesh may sag. Sectional fences from any chain-link mesh suggest the use profile corner, the amount of which is calculated as the perimeter of the skeleton, multiplied by the number of sections. The number of fasteners (clamps for attaching the mesh, hooks) is determined by the selected connection method.
How to stretch a chain-link mesh on a fence: installation of different types of mesh
The main tasks of the builder are to provide tension and prevent sagging. After fixing the canvas along the entire length of the hedge, it is necessary to check the corners at which the presence of distortions will be noticeable. To build a section fence, you need to learn how to make them, which can be difficult for a beginner. The following steps should be taken:
- metal corners connected to the frame. The length is equal to the size of the support, and the width is equal to the distance between them;
- the corner is cut into blanks;
- the frame is welded from the corner;
- a piece of the desired size is taken from the roll;
- the sides of this segment are fixed with reinforcement. This makes it possible to pull the chain-link to the corners of the frame;
- the bar is connected to the frame by welding.
The second option involves welding hooks (3 mm) inside the corner, on which the chain-link will be pulled. The disadvantage of this method is the possible slippage of the material. To mount the finished frame, it is necessary to weld metal strips to the support, to which it will be attached. It is quite difficult to make a frame fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands. During the preparation process, it may be difficult to:
- make the sections the same;
- install a piece of material without sagging;
- perform welding without experience;
- install sections.
Stretch
One of simple options country fence is stretch. The method is good for beginners, although it is inferior to the rest in terms of aesthetics. The mesh is stretched and attached directly to the supports. Fastening the chain-link to the posts can be simplified by making corners. The cost of the material for the corners is low, the option will turn out to be quite budgetary.
with wire
This type of fence is built very quickly. To prevent sagging of the upper edge, a wire (steel or sheathed) is pulled along the first row of the fence. The process itself does not take much time. A loop is made at the end of the wire and put on a support. The material is pushed into the cells of the grid and so on until the next support, on which it is necessary to make a new loop or wrap the wire around it. The tension can be provided with twists and a bar.
With welded wire
A bar (6-8 mm), cut to the size of the span, is threaded along the edge of the chain-link. The ends are welded to the supports. Possessing rigidity, the rod does not allow the grid to sag and keeps the horizontal. To ensure strength, you should buy a chain-link with a curved edge. She holds the edge well even without the addition.
With guide rails
To give the fence strength and solidity, it is sometimes reinforced with two guides located longitudinally. You can choose any material for them: wooden beam, pipe and others. When the soil freezes, the tree, being more elastic, can withstand the load on the pillars, but metal pipes they might just burst. But in general, such a fence has a large margin of safety.
Fixing the canvas from sagging
To keep the web in a fixed position, it is necessary to lay two reinforcing belts at the top and bottom. Reinforcement elements are threaded into the canvas at a distance of 20 cm from the edges and welded to the supports. This design will securely hold the canvas, preventing it from sagging during operation.
Fence Installation
Installation of the fence must begin from the corner. The mesh roll is unwound and placed at the first support. The edge of the chain-link or its contour is fixed to the welded hooks on the support. Unwinding a roll of material to the size of the span, a piece of reinforcement is threaded in the place of support, which makes it possible to stretch the chain-link well. The stretched material is fixed on the next support with hooks. Actions are repeated until the very end of the perimeter.
How to install a mesh fence on problematic surfaces
If the relief of the site has features (slopes, hills), then when buying materials and choosing the type of fence, you need to stop at the sectional version. A fence with a framed corner will allow you to build a fence and not carry out preliminary work on leveling the ground. A fence of sections can be easily installed with a solid elevation difference and the presence of slopes in the territory.
How to decorate a chain link fence
The chain-link fence in itself does not differ in special beauty and grace. If you wish, you can apply creative methods for transforming your hedge. by the most in a simple way is its decorative landscaping. Climbing plants can be planted along the fence, which will eventually braid the fence and make it beautiful and impervious to prying eyes. You can use hanging pots with plants, hanging them along the perimeter. While the plants have not ennobled the fence, you can place products with decorative weaving on the spans of the fence. Openwork weaving is made of thin wire on the surface of the canvas with large cells.
How to make a chain link fence opaque
In order to somehow reduce the visibility of the territory through a chain-link fence, it is enough to show a little imagination. The fence can be camouflaged with a camouflage net, which will make the fence original and cover the view. This option will appeal to the military, including the former. Using simple ropes different quality, you can weave on separate sections flower arrangements, arranging them in accordance with overall design. In a grid with large cells, you can insert fragments of colored plastic bottles, which will reduce visibility and not disturb air circulation.
Wire mesh is ideal material for light barriers. It does not obscure the light, and therefore is widely used for fencing beds, gardens, marking the boundaries of neighboring areas. To put up a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be an experienced craftsman, it is enough just to familiarize yourself with and choose the right materials.
Fence materials
The appearance, durability and cost of a chain-link fence directly depends on the quality of the mesh. Metal mesh is available in three versions:
- non-galvanized;
- galvanized;
- plasticized.
The cheapest of all. It is not suitable for permanent fencing, as it begins to rust after the first rain. Usually untreated black mesh lasts no more than 3-4 years. To extend the service life, the non-galvanized chain-link should be coated with either paint or special formulations, which after application form a water-repellent coating on the mesh. Periodically, such processing must be repeated, which as a result is more expensive than the purchase of a galvanized mesh.
Moisture is not afraid and does not require protective treatment. Her appearance is much more attractive, such a grid looks especially good in sectional fences. The cost of galvanized mesh is higher than regular black mesh, but since it lasts longer and does not need to be painted every 2-3 years, this option is more practical.
plasticized mesh has a special polymer coating corrosion resistant. The coating is not only durable, but also a variety of colors, so you can choose a mesh to match the main fence or roof of the house. The most popular is the netting of blue and green, less often you can see a white, red or yellow mesh fence.
Special attention should be paid to the supporting pillars of the fence. Chain-link mesh can be attached to metal pipes, steel profiles, concrete posts and even wooden posts.
The most convenient and practical supports are square metal pipes. Manufacturers offer pipes with hooks already welded on, especially for installing mesh fences. To reduce the cost of installing the fence, used pipes are also used, and the hooks are welded on their own. In addition, hooking is not the only option, it is possible to fix the mesh with steel wire.
How to calculate the amount of materials
The most popular for the manufacture of fences is considered to be a chain-link mesh with a width of 1.5 m and mesh sizes of 40-50 mm. A standard roll of mesh has a length of 10 m. To prevent the mesh from sagging, support posts must be installed in increments of 2-2.5 m. This means that no more than 5 posts will be required per roll. Aboveground part the supports should be 10 cm greater than the width of the grid, and the posts should be dug into the ground by 1/3 of their height.
So, if you need to install a chain-link fence 30 m long and 1.5 m high, you will need 3 rolls of mesh and 16 posts 2.3-2.5 m long. 3 hooks should be attached to each post - top, bottom and middle . Multiplying the number of supports by 3, they find out how many hooks will be needed. If the fence is sectional, the number of metal corners for the frame is additionally calculated. The height of each section is equal to the width of the grid, and the length of the run is 2-2.5 m. The most convenient corner for a 40x40 mm frame with a thickness of 5 mm.
Netting prices
Rabitz
Tension fence manufacturing
Tension fencing made of chain-link mesh is faster than sectional fencing, and is cheaper. The installation process includes marking, preparation of pits for poles, installation of poles and fence canvas.
For work you will need:
Step 1. Marking the site
They take wooden pegs and a long string and start marking. First you need to determine the location of the extreme pillars. In these places, pegs are driven in, a twine is pulled between them at a height of 10 cm above the ground. If the fence line has breaks, a beacon is also placed on each of them and a rope is fixed. Further along the marking line, it is necessary to drive in pegs where the intermediate supports will stand. The distance between the pegs must be the same and correspond to the width of the run.
Step 2. Preparing holes for poles
In places marked with pegs, with garden drill make holes with a depth of 80 to 120 cm. The denser the soil, the shallower the depth. The diameter of the holes should be slightly larger than the diameter of the posts. At the bottom of each pit they arrange sand cushion 10 cm thick.
Step 3. Installation of load-bearing poles
Prepare pipes: clean their surface from oil stains and rust, grind, weld hooks. The welding points are cleaned, the scale is removed, and then the pipes are primed and painted. After that, the columns are lowered into the pits, leveled, strengthened with spacers. If all supports have the same height and are located strictly in one line, you can fill. During the pouring process, the mortar is pierced several times with a steel bar to remove air bubbles from the concrete.
Step 4. Attaching the chain-link mesh
To fix the net on the poles, the roll does not need to be unwound. It is lifted vertically, put on the first support and hooked on hooks. If there are no hooks, the mesh is screwed with steel wire in three or four places. It is recommended to leave 10-15 cm between the surface of the earth and the lower edge of the grid. It can also be attached close to the soil, but then the cells will quickly become entangled with grass, debris, branches, and fallen leaves will accumulate under the fence.
Having fixed the chain-link on the first pillar, they move on to the second. The roll is unwound for 2-2.5 m, put on a support and the mesh is pulled. In order for the tension to be uniform, a steel bar 1.5 m long is threaded into the cells along the height of the roll. It is best to perform this process with an assistant: one person pulls the mesh, the other fastens it with wire or hooks it.
Even a tightly stretched netting sags over time, especially at the top. Reinforcing wire or long steel bars threaded into cells along the perimeter of the fence at a distance of 5-7 cm from the top and welded to the posts will help to avoid this. Sometimes the wire is threaded both from above and along the lower edge, stepping back from the ground 20 cm. Finally, the ends of the wire and hooks are bent inward, plugs are put on all the support posts.
Production of a sectional fence
The marking and installation of support posts for a sectional fence is carried out according to the technology described above. The only difference is that the posts should not be with hooks, but with welded metal plates. These plates have dimensions of 15x5 cm and a thickness of 5 mm; they are welded from above and below to the racks, stepping back from the edges by 20 cm.
To assemble the sections you will need:
- Rabitz;
- steel corners 40x40 mm;
- Bulgarian;
- roulette;
- rebar bars.
Step 1. Assembling the frame
Measure the distance between the bearing columns and subtract 15-20 cm from it - this will be the width of the frame from the corners. The height of the section is equal to the width of the grid or the height of the column minus 20 cm. The steel corners are cut to the size of the section and into a rectangle. Then the scale is removed, internal and outer surface frames are polished.
Step 2 Preparing the Mesh
A chain-link roll is laid on the ground, unwound 2-2.5 m and carefully cut with a grinder in width. Now reinforcing bars are threaded into the extreme rows of cells on each side. The rods do not need to be connected to each other.
Step 3 Mounting the section
The mesh is laid on the frame and welded top reinforcement to inside corner. Next, the mesh is well pulled down and the lower rod is welded, after which the sides are fixed. The finished section is lifted vertically to the posts and welded to the metal plates. You can also fix the section with bolts by drilling a hole of the desired diameter in the protruding part of the plate.
When mounting the next section, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of adjacent frames are in line. Even a difference of 1-2 cm will be noticeable and will give the fence a sloppy look. Finally, the sections are primed and painted. Thus, you can make a fence of any size without much hassle.
Video - Do-it-yourself chain-link fence
From a grid are widely used at a protection of seasonal dachas. Anyone can install a chain-link fence with a minimum of tools at hand. Subject to the installation technology and selection quality materials, such a fence will last 15-20 years. Before starting work, you need to study the types and characteristics of the grid, as well as study the instructions in detail in order to avoid mistakes.
The mesh is made of black and galvanized wire, so the quality of the chain-link varies. Black wire mesh is the cheapest and most short-lived. It becomes covered with rust after the first fog or rain, and after 3-4 years it becomes completely unusable. You can extend the life of a non-galvanized chain-link with paint or liquid rubber, which should be applied to the grid before it is installed, and then periodically update the protective layer.
Galvanized wire mesh is not afraid of corrosion, and therefore lasts longer. It costs a little more than black, but does not need it at all. protective treatment. from a galvanized chain-link look neat and attractive.
The plasticized chain-link is becoming more and more popular. This metal grid covered with a dense layer of anti-corrosion polymer, due to which it has an increased resistance to weathering. In addition, the polymer is colored, the mesh looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. And although such a chain-link is quite expensive, the demand for it is constantly growing.
In addition to quality, the chain-link mesh differs in mesh size, wire thickness and roll height. Cells can have dimensions from 10 to 65 mm, wire diameter 1-5 mm. The height of the roll is from 0.8 to 2 m, but the most popular is 1.5 m. The standard length of the mesh in a roll is 10 m, rolls of 20 m are made to order. The smaller the cells, the more expensive the cost of the mesh, because this increases material consumption .
| Type of chain-link mesh | Wire diameter, mm | Mesh width, mm | Living section of the mesh, % | Estimated weight of 1m2 mesh, kg |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1,20 | 1000 | 55,0 | 4,52 | |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,20 | 1000 | 61,0 | 33,73 |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,20 | 1000 | 69,8 | 2,78 |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,40 | 1000 | 65,5 | 3,8 |
| 1,20 | 1000,1500 | 75,3 (78,9) | 2,20 (1,94) | |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,40 | 1000,1500 | 71,5 (76,2) | 3,00 (2,57) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,40 | 1000,1500 | 76,3 (77,0) | 3,24 (2,74) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,60 | 1000,1500 | 73,3 (77,0) | 3,24 (2,74) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,80 | 1000,1500 | 76,0 (78,9) | 3,25 (2,75) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,60 | 1000,1500 | 77,5 (80,9) | 2,57 (2,17) |
| 1,4 | 1000-2000 | 83,6 | 1,77 | |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,4 | 1000-2000 | 87,0 | 1,33 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,6 | 1000-2000 | 85,7 | 1,74 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,6 | 1000-2000 | 88,0 | 1,39 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 87,0 | 1,76 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 89 | 1,46 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 87,9 | 1,81 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 91 | 1,1 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 90,7 | 1,36 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 91,7 | 1,23 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 90,7 | 1,70 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 89 | 2,44 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 92 | 1,41 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 92 | 1,74 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 94 | 1,10 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 93 | 1,53 |
Netting prices
Rabitz
Types of mesh fences
The protection from a chain-link grid happens sectional and tension. The first option involves the manufacture of rectangular metal sections, inside which the mesh is fixed. For sections use metal corners, profile and round pipes small diameter. Connect them by welding or bolts, if not. Such a fence looks more aesthetically pleasing and attractive, metal carcass does not allow the mesh to sag.
The tension fence is faster and easier to install; its design consists only of supporting pillars and the grid itself. The mesh is fastened with steel wire, clamps or hung on hooks welded to the posts. Pipes are suitable for poles different diameter, concrete columns, wooden bar.
Installation of fence posts
For both sectional and tension fences, the marking, preparation and installation of poles is carried out according to the same technology, only in the first case the poles should be stronger. This is due to the additional load from the metal sections; if the supports are too thin, the fence will definitely warp.
For work you will need:
- roulette;
- wooden pegs;
- a skein of thin rope;
- building level;
- manual drill;
- crushed stone and sand;
- solution;
- profile pipes 60x40 mm;
- Bulgarian;
- primer.
Step 1. Installing the corner posts
The area allotted for the site is cleared of vegetation, if necessary, leveled, the location of the extreme pillars is determined. Experienced builders recommend making corner posts from pipes of a larger cross section than intermediate ones, and digging them deeper. For example, if a 40x40 mm profile pipe is taken for intermediate supports, then for corner supports it is better to take 60x40 mm and 15-20 cm longer.
Proceed to the installation of pillars:
When the solution hardens a little, you can remove the spacers and start marking under the intermediate racks.
Step 2. Markup
A rope is pulled tightly between the corner supports at a height of 15 cm from the ground - this will be the fence line. The line must be divided into equal segments corresponding to the width of the span. Optimal Width span for a fence from a chain-link is 2-2.5 m; if you increase it, the grid will definitely sag. They retreat from the extreme pillar to the desired distance and drive a peg into the ground, and so on to the opposite corner. All pegs should be in contact with the stretched rope and be at an equal distance from each other.
Video - A new way to install support poles
Step 3. Installing intermediate supports
In place of the pegs, holes are drilled for the posts and the bottom is covered with sand. To make it more convenient to control the height of the supports, another rope is pulled along the upper edge of the corner posts. Now the pipes are inserted into the pits, leveled in height and vertical, sprinkled with crushed stone and soil and tightly tamped with crowbar. Concrete is poured from above and the surface is leveled.
If it is planned to install a tension fence, and the soil on the site is quite dense, intermediate supports can simply be hammered into the ground and not concreted. To do this, holes are drilled to half the required depth, pipes are inserted there and hammered with a sledgehammer. To protect the upper edge of the posts from deformation, take a larger piece of pipe, weld a steel plate on one side and put it on top of the post. After driving the supports, the pits are covered with gravel and sand, spilled with water for better compaction and well rammed.
Step 4. Welding hooks
After about a week, when the concrete has hardened sufficiently, installation can continue. You can fix the grid on the poles with wire or clamps, but it is more convenient to hook it on hooks. Profile pipes with hooks already welded are on sale, but if there are welding machine It's cheaper to make them yourself. For this, pieces of a steel bar, screws, nails, even thick wire are suitable - everything that can be welded to the pipe and bent. On a pole 2 m high, it is enough to make 3 hooks: at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, 10 cm from the top of the pipe and in the middle.
Video - Do-it-yourself chain-link fence
Step 1 Attaching the Mesh
A chain-link roll is placed near the corner post, unwound a little and the cells are put on hooks. To securely fix the edge of the mesh, you need to take a piece of reinforcement with a cross section of 8 mm and a length of 1.5 m and thread it into the cells of the first row. After that, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. Now, when the roll is tensioned, the mesh will not sag. Having fixed the end of the mesh, the roll is transferred to the next support, carefully unwinding it.
Stepping back from the junction of the chain-link with a pipe of 10-15 cm, a steel bar is again threaded into the cells. This time you do not need to weld it, it will just help to evenly stretch the mesh. When the mesh is put on hooks, the rod is taken out, the roll is unwound for another span, the reinforcement is inserted again, and so on until the very end of the fence. To connect two canvases, use a wire from the extreme vertical row of one of the rolls.
Step 2. Fixing the canvas from sagging
Even a well-stretched canvas sags a little over time, so at the installation stage, you need to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the posts. You will need a wire with a cross section of 6 mm and a welding machine. The wire is threaded into the second or third row of cells horizontally along the entire fence. In places where the grid fits to the posts, the wire is welded. Then, in the same way, the lower edge of the mesh is strengthened, and at the end, the hooks are bent. Now the fence canvas is securely fixed on the supports and will not bend or sag.
Step 3. The final stage
When the fence is installed, you need to complete the finishing touches:
- put plastic plugs on top of the pipes;
- paint the posts
- twist the upper antennae of the chain-link in pairs by 2 turns and bend down.
At this point, the installation of the tension fence is considered completed.
Video - Connecting the chain-link in one roll
Installation of a sectional fence
Section manufacturing
Step 2: Preparing the Racks
Rectangular plates 20x5 cm and 4-5 mm thick are cut from sheet steel. They take one plate, apply it perpendicular to the pole at a height of 20 cm from the ground and weld it. The second plate is welded at the top, stepping back from the edge of 15-20 cm. In the same way, the plates are attached to the remaining supports.
Step 3 Mounting sections
The first section is placed between the pillars, lifted and leveled. Then the sides are welded to the plates and proceed to the next span. It is very important to correctly align the sections in height so that the top rails of the frame form a single line. After installing all the sections, they clean the welding spots, prime and paint the fence frame.
Read step by step instructions how to do, in our new article.
Video - How to make a chain-link fence
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