Lay a sewer pipe in a private house. All about sewerage in a private house: scheme, laying depth, calculations. Optimum inclination and depth of laying during construction

In individual construction, sewerage is a complex set of engineering equipment designed for efficient and safe disposal of wastewater.

Its main purpose is to collect wastewater into a single highway and transport it for disposal.

But it is the high-quality preparation and arrangement of the sewerage system that largely determines the comfort in the house.

All pipes used in sewer systems are divided according to the material of manufacture, the length of a single element and diameter. The most widely used pipes are made from the following materials.

Cast iron

Despite the fact that cast iron pipes have almost left the building materials market, if necessary, they can still be ordered today. Their main advantage is high mechanical strength., allowing you to lay shallow sewer lines even under the road.

However, a big the strength of cast iron is very unfortunately combined with high brittleness. At the same time, cast-iron drains silt up very quickly, require regular cleaning and are of considerable cost.

PVC (polyvinyl chloride)

Differs in low cost and acceptable operational characteristics. The main disadvantage of PVC is its high hardness. As a result, pipelines made of this material resonate very strongly and make noise when waste water passes through them.

With the strength of the material also leaves much to be desired. It is possible to lay PVC sewerage only in highly compacted soil or inside a protective box.

Polyethylene

Pipes made of this material are distinguished by such qualities as:

  • elasticity, due to which the polyethylene sewer, even after complete freezing, returns to its original geometry and can be further operated;
  • insensitivity to chemical reagents;
  • the possibility of laying in moving soils.

Main disadvantages:

  • softens at 80 degrees, what can lead to pipe deformation;
  • great wear during the passage of abrasive particles.

Therefore, for sewerage systems, the option of pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene is more suitable. This material is more durable and able to withstand high temperatures without deformation and destruction.

Polypropylene

For sewerage in a private house, polypropylene is of the greatest interest. It has a lot of advantages:

  • acceptable cost;
  • excellent wear resistance, allowing you not to worry when solid abrasive particles enter the sewer;
  • softens only at 140 degrees x, allowing you to drain even boiling water into the sewer for as long as you like;
  • resistant to chemicals. Only large volumes of concentrated acid can damage polypropylene pipes.

At the same time, with the external laying of polypropylene sewage, it should be well insulated. At temperatures below -5 degrees, the pipe will lose elasticity and may crack.

The diameter of the pipe in a private house depends on the purpose of the section of the highway:

  • 40 or 50 mm for washbasin, kitchen sink, bathtub and other sanitary ware;
  • 110 mm for the toilet, risers and mains.

The increased diameter of the pipe for connecting the toilet is necessary not only to simplify the descent of fecal masses. When the tank is completely drained through a narrow pipe, a vacuum effect may occur, which is fraught with disruption of the operation of all siphons in the system.

sewerage scheme

A sewerage scheme should be drawn up taking into account such factors, how:

  • the expected volume of wastewater;
  • soil characteristics;
  • climatic features of the area (seasonal temperature changes, rainfall).

The system should consist of three main elements:

  • internal sewer network;
  • external highway;
  • septic tank (cesspool).

Several rules apply to the calculation of sewer systems.

  1. When distributing sewer pipes, it is necessary to minimize the number of interchanges, joints and connections.
  2. If the house has several floors, then rooms with plumbing fixtures should be located one above the other. This will allow the use of common risers.
  3. The kitchen and bathroom are optimally located in adjacent rooms as close as possible to the sewer.

The diagram should show the exact location and characteristics of the following elements:

  • sewer pipes with an indication of the material, length and diameter;
  • turning points, branches and inspection hatches;
  • plumbing appliances;
  • risers and collectors;
  • branch line b;
  • septic tank.

As a result, the scheme of the sewer system should include the full amount of information necessary for its installation.

Device

To install a septic tank on the site, preparation of a pit will be required. Its dimensions will be determined by the dimensions of the selected septic tank model and the characteristics of the soil. If the soil is very mobile, then the size of the pit should be increased by 25-40 cm. for each dimension.

This stock will allow pouring a concrete box for mechanical protection of the septic tank. The depth of the pit should be calculated so that the neck of the installed septic tank is flush with the ground level.

The depth of the trench under the sewer line should be less than 70-80 cm. This will keep it from freezing. In this case, the terrain should be taken into account. If the house is located much higher than the septic tank, then the trench near the foundation should be deeper. The minimum distance to the foundation of the building is 5 m.

The main pipe should be laid at a slight angle towards the septic tank. For this, the optimal increase in the depth of the trench should be about 3 mm per 1 m. Such a slope will ensure the unhindered passage of drains. With a smaller slope, there are congestion.

Exceeding the specified slope can cause water to drain too quickly into the septic tank, not having time to take fecal matter with it. This is also fraught with congestion.

To make it easier to control the depth of the trench, it is worth preparing a wooden beam with divisions in advance. Divisions are applied for certain distances from the foundation. For example, at two meters from the house, the depth should be 800, at four - 806, etc.

As you move away from home, the depth should always increase.. Its reduction in any area is unacceptable. Even a small "hump" will lead not only to difficulty in flow, but also to the appearance of an air lock, which will further worsen the situation.

Turns of the highway can also impede the flow. As far as possible, they should be avoided. If you can’t do without a bend, you should organize a turn of the maximum possible radius. At the turning point, it is desirable to arrange a revision well.

Particular attention should be paid to the depth of the sewer if it passes under a car park or road. In this case, it should be increased by several tens of centimeters.

To prevent the pipe from sinking into the ground, the bottom of the trench must be sealed with a sand cushion. The thickness of the pillow is 10-15 cm.

For medium and cold climatic zones, the sewer line must be insulated. As a heater, polyurethane foam or expanded polystyrene sheets with a shielding layer of foil can be used.

Particularly careful insulation is required for hatches in revision wells and collectors. In a fairly mild climate, insulation should be performed only for the upper part of the pipe.

Elements of the internal sewer network must be reduced to a common riser that acts as a collector. The optimal place for laying horizontal pipe sections is in the floor screed. In this case, it is desirable to give the pipe a slight slope.

The use of 90 degree elbows in sewer systems is not recommended. Pipe turns are best organized using several bends at 30 or 45 degrees.

Ventilation

Efficient ventilation for the sewerage system in a private house is necessary for several reasons.

  1. This will allow the septic tank to function normally. During the decomposition of wastewater, gases are released, the excess of which can stop this process. Ventilation will also contribute to gas removal.
  2. If the system is maintained at atmospheric pressure, then improve her performance. Without ventilation, water hammer and the appearance of vacuum zones are possible.
  3. Ventilated sewer can last longer e than its hermetic version.

The easiest way to organize ventilation is to install a fan pipe, which is a vertical continuation of the riser. The upper cut of the fan pipe is displayed above the roof level at a distance of at least 70 cm. It is impossible to combine general ventilation in the house with a fan pipe.

Prices for materials and installation

Prices for materials for sewerage systems depend on their material of manufacture and linear dimensions. Roughly they will be as follows:

  • PPR pipe for internal sewerage with a diameter of 110 mm, length 1 m - 830 rubles;
  • the same with a diameter of 50 mm - 720 rubles;
  • revision 50 mm - 150 rubles;
  • plug 50 mm - 10 rubles;
  • toilet connection unit 110 × 87 - 200 rubles;
  • PVC pipe for external sewerage 5 m long - 1200 rubles;
  • 300 l septic tank (Ecoprom Rostok Mini) - 37,000 rubles.

The total cost of the system will depend on the number and remoteness of plumbing devices, as well as on the distance to the septic tank.

If it is planned to involve third-party workers for the sewerage device, then the prices will be something like this:

  • installation of internal sewerage - 175-620 rubles. for 1 linear meter;
  • plumbing connection - from 200 rubles;
  • installation of an external line 100 mm - 200-350 rubles. for 1 r.m.

When doing the work on your own, the price of installation will only be the time spent.

Laying sewerage is an important stage in the construction of a private house. If there is no public sewerage, then in order to equip a completely autonomous drainage system, it is necessary to lay a network that delivers wastewater from sanitary and household appliances to a collection well. Installing a sewer for a private house is not a quick matter, but serious difficulties should not arise when doing the work yourself. The help of specialists may be required only in the most difficult sections of the pipeline.

The drainage system of a private house consists of internal and external sewage and a prefabricated well. In cottages with more than two floors with their own bathrooms, the sewer network is additionally equipped with a fan pipe.

Water supply and sanitation systems are usually designed and installed at the same time, since the same plumbing and household equipment is connected to them.

The procedure for laying a sewer network:

  • Prepare a pipeline project, taking into account all the devices connected to it, a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter, and calculate the amount of building materials needed.
  • Purchase pipes, fittings and fittings.
  • Cut pipes into lengths according to the project.
  • Carry out internal wiring and bring the sewer pipe outside.
  • Install fan pipe.
  • Install outdoor sewer.
  • Arrange a prefabricated well and connect a pipeline to it.

Internal wiring

Intra-house sewerage is collected in such a way that its lowest point is the place where the pipeline exits to the outside. In order not to be mistaken with the angle of inclination, you can start the assembly from this point.

If there is a project, the connection order is unimportant, but you must strictly follow the rules for performing internal wiring:

  • Each device and functional section of the pipeline requires a pipe of the appropriate diameter: for the riser and toilet - 11 cm, for showers, bathtubs, kitchen sinks - 5 cm, for everything else 3.2 cm is enough, but if several devices are connected to one pipe at the same time , its diameter must be at least 7.5 cm.
  • Since wastewater flows through the pipes by gravity, a pipeline slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter is required.
  • The connection of pipes must be tight and not interfere with the free flow of liquid: the pipes are connected along the flow, there should be no roughness and burrs at the junction.
  • Right angles should be avoided, as they are the most likely to form blockages. To perform a turn, it is better to use several knees with smaller angles.
  • It is necessary to prevent back suction from the sewer and the penetration of an unpleasant odor into the house. To do this, a siphon or an S-shaped bent pipe is installed on the pipe of each plumbing fixture, which acts as a water seal.
  • If the house has several floors and each of them has plumbing, a common riser should be equipped.
  • Toilets are installed closer to other household and plumbing fixtures to the riser.
  • Piping nodes cannot be performed in places where walls or ceilings pass.
  • Holes for pipes passing through walls and ceilings are cut out with a margin, it is advisable to insert special sleeves or sections of wider pipes into them.
  • The points of connection to the riser and the turns of the pipeline are equipped with a tee with an inspection window closed with a plug. Through these windows, pipes will be cleaned in the future in case of clogging.
  • The riser is located as close as possible to the outlet of the sewer to the outside.

If desired, even a private house in the countryside can be equipped. The first thing a country dweller faces is the lack of a warm toilet in the house. Without sewerage, a person is deprived of many amenities. It's not a luxury, it's a necessity. Laying sewerage in a private house is a complex process that requires taking into account every little thing. How to do it?

External and internal

Work related to the arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with the design of the internal and In the first case, the installation of a fan pipe, a riser, as well as piping to all rooms where it is required is required: kitchen, toilet, bathroom and so on. As for the external system, this is everything that is located outside the house. Its arrangement requires piping to a septic tank. You can also connect the sewer to a deep cleaning station.

The task is greatly facilitated if it is possible to discharge wastewater into a centralized system. If the house is located on an isolated site, then a system with a homemade septic tank should be created. It can be with or cumulative. The cesspool is not suitable in this case.

Laying scheme in a private house

Before starting work, you should draw up a plan for laying pipes inside a private house. The process is greatly simplified if all wet rooms are located in close proximity. The scheme is drawn up strictly individually. In the process, all the features of the house and the location of the premises should be taken into account. The finished version can look like anything.

When designing sewerage inside the house, it is necessary to accurately calculate the location of the collector pipe. Only after that it is possible to determine where the rest of the system will be laid.

How to draw the right diagram

The sewerage scheme in a private house is an important stage. The quality of the system and its reliability depend on how well the plan is drawn up. Stages of drawing up a diagram:

  1. On a piece of paper, preferably in a box, you need to recreate the plan of the house. When drawing up a plan, it is worth considering the scale.
  2. Then it is worth deciding on the location of the riser or the collector pipe.
  3. At all levels of the building, the location of plumbing should be noted. At this stage, you should learn about how to connect it.
  4. From plumbing, it is necessary to lay pipes on paper to the riser. In this case, all connecting elements, tees, branches and corners should be taken into account.
  5. It is necessary to measure the length of each element of the internal system and summarize the data. The result is the required number of pipes. In this case, the diameter of the material must be taken into account.

The final stage is the drawing up of a diagram of the external system: the release of pipes, their laying to the septic tank. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements specified in SanPiN 2.1.4.1110-02, as well as SNiP 2.04.03-85.

What to consider when arranging an internal system

The laying of internal sewerage in a private house begins after drawing up an approximate scheme. At this stage, there are several things to consider:

  1. To drain wastewater from the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are required. Their total length must be at least 100 centimeters.
  2. For gray drains that enter the common riser from the kitchen and bathroom, pipes made of PP or PVC are required. The diameter of the material should be 5 centimeters.
  3. To arrange turns in the system, it is necessary to use several plastic elbows made at an angle of 45 °. This reduces the risk of blockages in the process of using the sewer.
  4. It is best to use polypropylene for arranging sewage inside the house, or such material is more durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. When using such pipes, laying sewers in a private house is simplified.

Choosing pipes

Laying sewerage in a private house requires careful preparation. After drawing up the scheme and carrying out the necessary calculations, the purchase of materials is required. For wiring inside the house, gray pipes are used. For the arrangement of the external system, pipes of an orange tint are required. You can explain the difference in color based on logic. Orange hues are best seen in the ground. In addition, pipes have differences in properties. First of all, it concerns the material. Pipes located underground must withstand more serious loads. The material for their manufacture should be more rigid.

In order for the laying of sewerage in a private house to be successful with your own hands, you can use two-layer corrugated pipes. But, as practice shows, their use is often inappropriate. After all, the depth of sewerage in a private house is from 2 to 3 meters. Much cheaper and no less effective is the use of orange pipes. Most often, a material with a diameter of 11 centimeters is used to equip an external system. This is quite enough for normal wastewater disposal.

How to lay pipes? It's simple!

Laying a sewer in a private house with your own hands requires certain skills and patience. The most difficult stage is the placement of pipes and their fastening. It is almost impossible to do this alone. Therefore, you will need an assistant to work. This will not only speed up the process, but also improve the quality.

The easiest option for laying sewerage is the use of PVC or PP pipes. A fairly wide range of such products is produced. If necessary, you can purchase material of the desired diameter, tees, elbows and revisions. It is worth noting that each part is equipped with a special rubberized insert - cuff. Thanks to this element, laying the sewerage of a private house takes a little time. Joints are connected easily and at the same time reliably. If desired, you can process the seams additionally. For this, a silicone-based plumbing sealant is suitable.

What to Consider

When laying pipes, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

  1. If pipes run through walls or ceilings, then they must be placed in special sleeves that reduce the load on system fragments.
  2. The slope of the elements of the sewer system depends on their diameter and is prescribed in SNiP 2.04.03-85. For example, for a material whose diameter is 5 centimeters, this indicator should be 3 cm / m, and with a diameter of 10 to 11 centimeters - 2 cm / m.

Arrangement of sewer outlet

If a problem arises and the internal system does not match the external one, then the laying of sewer pipes in a private house should begin with the release. This is the boundary zone between systems. At this point, the riser is connected to the pipe leading to the wastewater collection tank.

It is necessary to mount the outlet through the foundation wall. The depth of its laying should be below the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, in winter, difficulties may arise during the operation of the sewer. If the outlet hole was not specified during the construction of the building, then it will have to be punched. Its diameter must correspond to the dimensions of the pipe in the sleeve. The latter should be longer than the hole. From each edge, the sleeve must cover the pipe by more than 15 centimeters. These are the basic requirements for the release of sewage.

Installation of the riser and further wiring

The size of the pipe from the riser to the toilet should be 1000 mm. This allows you to determine its location. It is better to mount the riser in the toilet itself. Installation can be hidden or open. It all depends on where the pipe will be installed. You can install the riser close to the wall. To do this, use suspension brackets and clamps. You can also mount the pipe in a niche, in a channel or in a box.

To connect the riser and other fragments of the system, you can use oblique tees. If the pipes are different in diameter, then adapters should be used to connect them. They allow you to refuse the use of sealant. In those places where there is an intersection of elements coming from a shower, sink or bath, it is necessary to install a collector pipe. Its diameter should be from 10 to 11 centimeters. Do not forget about water seals. These elements do not allow unpleasant odors to penetrate into the living room.

On each floor, a revision is installed in the riser - a kind of tee designed to clean the system in case of severe blockage.

What is a fan pipe

By observing the rules for laying sewers in a private house, you can easily create an external and internal system. In addition to installing a riser, a fan pipe is also required. This is its continuation, which is displayed on the roof of the house. This part is installed on the riser. A revision is mounted at the junction. After that, the fan pipe is brought to the attic at an angle. Do not connect it to the ventilation system of the building or to the chimney.

Types of septic tanks

Laying an external sewage system in a private house is no less important than installing an internal system. With improper arrangement, problems can arise not only with comfort, but also with environmentalists. One mistake can turn the sewer into a big smelly problem that will take a lot of time and money to fix.

You should start with a septic device. The most commonly used facilities are settling type. This is a container or a combination of them through which drains pass. Gradually they clear up. This occurs due to the deposition of heavy inclusions. After the drains pass additional purification in the filtration well or in the field. In this case, both mechanical and biological cleaning methods are used.

There is another, simpler type of septic tank - storage. In this case, a closed container of a sufficiently large volume is installed. All drains are collected in it. To empty such a septic tank, sewage pumping is required, which is carried out. This method of arranging an external system is easier to implement. Plus it's cheaper.

How to calculate the required volume

Calculating the dimensions is not so difficult. The volume is determined based on settling for 3 days. The average consumption per person per day is 200 liters. If desired, this indicator can be calculated individually. If two people live in the house on a permanent basis, then the volume of the tank for the septic tank should be:

2 x 200 x 3 = 1200 liters or 1.2 cubic meters.

Stages of installation of an outdoor system

The laying of sewerage in a private house does not end after the complete installation of the internal system. After all, the arrangement of the outer part is required. Stages of arranging an external system:

  1. First you need to prepare the materials: a finished container of the required volume made of PP or reinforced concrete rings. If desired, you can lay out of brick or pour a monolith.
  2. The next step is to determine the appropriate wastewater treatment method.
  3. After earthworks are carried out: a pit is dug under the tank and trenches for laying pipes.
  4. All structural elements must be connected. At the same time, do not forget about the comfortable maintenance of the septic tank.
  5. Pipes should be mounted at a certain slope. This indicator should be 2 cm / m. Joints must be sealed.
  6. The septic tank should be equipped with a ventilation system.
  7. After carrying out work on thermal and waterproofing of individual fragments of the system, it is possible to fill the structure with soil.

When placing a septic tank, it is worth considering the location of the buildings on the plot. Do not place a waste container near a recreation area or playground.

In conclusion

Now you know how the sewerage of a private house is carried out. If you follow all the rules, you will get a reliable system. Before starting the operation of the sewer, it is necessary to carry out its run. To do this, the system must be flushed with clean water. This will identify any shortcomings and correct them. Only then can the operation of the sewer system be started.

In fact, the process of editing individual fragments is not difficult. The main thing is not to make mistakes when drawing up a sewerage scheme, as well as to make the correct slope of the pipes. Otherwise, the system will not function normally.

Reading time ≈ 13 minutes

Thanks to modern technologies in a private house, it is quite possible to equip an effective sewage system with your own hands, knowing the general principles of the device, the scheme, the laying depth and other nuances. Primitive toilets are quickly becoming a thing of the past and are being replaced by modern wastewater disposal systems. They do not emit an unpleasant odor, effectively cope with the removal of waste and provide a high level of comfort for residents. In our material, we will tell you how to independently make a sewer for your home, what to consider when designing, how to install it.

Sewerage in a private house.

General principles of sewerage

Definitely, the easiest option is when the house can be connected to the city sewer, but not all private plots have such an opportunity. Therefore, you have to think about your own autonomous wastewater disposal system. Usually, the internal communications device in the first and second cases is the same, but the external device is different.

The internal system consists of plumbing fixtures, small diameter pipes attached to them, which in turn are connected to wider pipes and go to the riser. Through it, sewage enters a horizontal wide pipe and is discharged outside. The boundary element of the internal and external sewerage is the point of outlet of effluents to the outside. Further, through wide pipes, water enters the treatment plant or central sewerage.

The internal network of pipes and external communications form one single system.

When designing a sewage disposal system, it is worth considering a number of nuances and rules:

In general, the installation of a sewage system for a country house can be divided into the following works:

  • internal - laying communications in all wet rooms (lavatory, kitchen, bathroom), installation of a riser and a fan pipe;
  • external - installation of an autonomous treatment plant (we will consider the types of installations below) and the supply of pipes in it.

Communications inside the house

Ideally, it is necessary to think over the structure of the drain system even at the design stage of the dwelling, placing all wet rooms close to each other, because a number of difficulties can arise with the finished building. The location of internal communications in the house can be absolutely anything and is selected individually for each building. In the photo below, we have given an example of piping inside the building.

Sewerage system in a private house.

Waste system design

First of all, it is worth drawing up exactly the scheme of the future sewerage. A detailed drawing will allow you to see the work plan, make a list of necessary materials, and calculate the cost. To draw up a plan, arm yourself with a ruler or tape measure, a pencil and a sheet of graph paper.

Instructions for drawing up a sewage disposal project:

  1. Draw the plan of the house to scale.
  2. Indicate where the riser will be installed and the outlet of the sewer to the outside - this is what you need to build on when compiling the rest of the pipe layout.
  3. In each wet room, designate the planned plumbing fixtures (washbasins, taps, toilets, showers), and also indicate the connection method.
  4. Draw the course of the pipeline from plumbing fixtures to the riser, indicating the connecting elements.
  5. Make a detailed plan for each residential level of the building.
  6. Calculate the length of all communications inside the house up to the point of outputs to the outside.

Pipe selection

One of the key elements of the system is the pipeline. The characteristics of pipes for operation inside and outside the house are different.

For each type of plumbing, the required pipe width is selected, which is presented in more detail in the table:

Pipe width for each plumbing fixture.

The central riser pipe can be narrow (about 50 mm) for a one-story building without a toilet. Otherwise (if a toilet is connected and the house has two or more floors), you need a wide riser up to 10-11 cm.

With the pipe diameter indicated in the table, the following distances to the riser should be observed:

  • from the toilet a maximum of 1 m;
  • from other devices a maximum of 3 m.

If the length to the riser is longer, it is necessary to choose pipes of a larger diameter.

Today, pipes are traditionally made from polypropylene (PP pipes) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC pipes). Let's take a closer look at their characteristics:

Characteristics of materials for the manufacture of sewer pipes.

It is also worth mentioning cast iron pipes - durable, reliable, durable. But they are distinguished by a high price, they can rust from the inside, leading to clogging, and heavy. In addition, the installation process is quite complicated. Today, pipes made of this material are practically not used, since pipes made of PP or PVC are not inferior in their characteristics.

Pipes for external and internal sewerage.

Riser and fan pipe

The riser is the main element of the waste disposal system, through which all sewage is directed outside.

The main nuances in the device of the riser:

In the upper part, passing into the fan pipe, the riser provides sewer ventilation, provides the necessary pressure in the system, and prevents the occurrence of an unpleasant odor. In small one-story buildings, where there is no risk of a large one-time drain (from the bath, toilet and sink), the fan pipe can not be equipped.

Important! The distance between the fan pipe and balconies / windows should be at least 4 m, with an elevation above the roof of at least 0.7 m. Also keep in mind that the ventilation of the house, the fan pipe, the chimney should be located at different heights.

Fan pipe in the sewerage system.

You can mount the riser in an open or closed way. At the bottom, it goes into a horizontal wide pipe - a collector that goes out.

Laying and connecting pipes

After choosing the pipes, the most time-consuming, but extremely important stage begins - the laying and wiring of the pipeline. For the installation of sewers, it is better to hire experienced specialists, and if you have the knowledge and skills, take someone as your assistant to speed up the process.

Highlights of pipe installation:


Also, when laying an intra-house pipeline, it is important to know where the installation of sewer networks is prohibited:

  • in any living rooms;
  • in the kitchen;
  • in the walls between rooms and the floor;
  • under the ceiling.

Video: installation of domestic sewage.

Removal of the sewer

As we indicated earlier, even at the stage of designing a house, it is worth determining the place of the riser and the outlet of the sewer, since already at the stage of laying the foundation it will be necessary to make the appropriate holes. If at the stage of laying the foundation a hole for the sewer was not made, it must be done in an already finished structure.

The outlet of the sewer is actually its border area, connecting the internal communications and the outer pipe leading to the treatment plant. The conclusion is settled in the foundation. If thermal insulation of pipes is not provided, then the withdrawal depth should be lower than the GIP indicator. A sleeve is also required at the junction. When installing external communications, it is still necessary to observe a slope of 2 cm per 1 m.

Removal of the sewer outside.

External communications

Now you can move on to the arrangement of external communications. They consist of a pipeline and a cleaning system directly - a septic tank or a deep cleaning station. There is also a third possible option - the arrangement of an ordinary cesspool, but we will not consider it, since it is ineffective for a private house, outdated and unhygienic.

The choice of treatment plant depends on many factors:

  • financial opportunities;
  • area of ​​the territory;
  • volume of waste water.

The location of treatment facilities is strictly regulated and depends on the location of a residential building, neighboring houses, and a source of drinking water. So, the minimum distance to the house is:

  • 3 m for a deep biological treatment station;
  • 5 m for a septic tank with soil filtration;
  • 12 m for drop wells;
  • 15 m for a cesspool.

Distance of various cleaning devices from home.

When calculating the required volume of a treatment plant, the following formula should be used: the number of people multiplied by the average daily amount of water used, multiplied by three (which means three days of settling). For example, for a family of 6 people, the volume is as follows: 200 * 6 * 3 \u003d 3600, that is, 3.6 cubic meters.

septic tank

Septic tanks are a purification plant operating on the principles of settling, as well as biological, soil post-treatment. There are many classifications of septic tanks. So, according to the principle of operation, they can be accumulative, with soil cleaning or deep bio-cleaning. They can be made from different materials (plastic, metal, brick).

Schematic arrangement of a septic tank.

Accumulative septic tanks are suitable only for summer cottages, and for private houses where people live permanently and use more water, they will be ineffective.

Soil filtration septic tanks are the best option for a country or private house. In such models, the waste is not only settled, but is purified with the help of special microorganisms. As a result, you need to clean the device with a vacuum cleaner every few years.

Septic tanks with soil filtration cannot be installed in areas with clay soil, as well as in places where groundwater is close to groundwater, since the filtration process will not be possible.

Deep cleaning station

These are highly functional, modern, but expensive treatment facilities. Suitable for installation on any soil, they purify up to 98% of wastewater, and filtered water can be discharged in any way: into the ground, onto the relief or by gravity.

The device of the deep cleaning station.

External pipe laying

Ideally, the pipeline from the output from the house to the septic tank should not have any turns. But if you cannot do without it, you need to carry it out according to the same principles as for internal communication. In addition, wells should be made at the corners to facilitate the cleaning process.

If you are installing a sewer in a private house with your own hands according to the indicated scheme, it is extremely important to observe the laying depth. When calculating it, the main indicator is the depth of soil freezing (GGD). This figure is different for each region. The general rule is that the colder the winter, the greater the depth of the pipe should be.

Pipe laying depth.

The minimum laying depth is 0.7-0.8 m. If the pipeline runs in the places of paths, platforms (that is, places that are usually cleared of snow cover in winter), the laying depth must be increased.

In addition to the GIP indicator, when calculating the depth of the pipes, the following should be taken into account:

  • the depth of the entrance to the septic tank (usually 1.5 m).
  • pipe material and its strength;
  • load on the soil and pipes from transport.

If the communications will be shallow, and be sure to insulate. The same applies to autonomous sewer systems in places with very cold winters.

Warming of communications.

Step-by-step process for laying an outdoor pipeline:

  1. Trenches are pulled out from the outlet of the sewer from the house to the location of the septic tank. The width of the trenches is 60 cm.
  2. A sand cushion is laid on the bottom with a layer of 5 cm and compacted.
  3. All necessary elements are prepared: pipes, fittings. Starting from the sewer outlet, pipes are laid. Be sure to follow the slope.
  4. Silicone sealant is used to connect the pipes.
  5. If necessary, the pipes are insulated with a special heat-insulating material. Additionally, you can use a heating electric cord.
  6. After joining the septic tank, the trenches are buried first with a layer of sand (15 cm above the pipe level), and then with soil.

Definitely, the construction of an autonomous sewage system with your own hands in a private house is a complex and labor-intensive process, because it is worth drawing up a diagram, determining the laying depth, and doing all the work correctly. It is possible that you will need to resort to the advice or help of experienced professionals. However, the result of the work done is definitely worth it!

Video: How to properly lay sewer pipes (sewer slope).

Regardless of whether a private house is connected to a central or autonomous sewer, the sewage disposal system on the street must be equipped independently. Before starting this work, it is necessary to develop an installation scheme that allows you to get by with the minimum size of the pipeline and sewer wiring.

This will reduce the cost of purchasing material and increase the efficiency of the wastewater disposal system. Particular attention should be paid to the depth of pipe laying, the angle of their inclination and the reliability of flange connections, since the performance of the sewer depends on these parameters.

Connecting a private house to the sewer

Circumstances and layout of external sewage

The outer part of the sewer system in a private house connects the outlet of the internal drain with a waste storage tank located on the site, or with a central sewer, with a pipeline network. Read about the internal wiring in the house in the article. Laying of external sewer pipes is carried out according to a scheme developed in advance, taking into account the following circumstances:

  • terrain features;
  • weather;
  • remoteness of wells and reservoirs;
  • the total volume of effluents, depending on the number of people permanently residing in the house;
  • the depth of soil freezing and its composition;
  • ways of access of the car of a vacuum truck if necessary.

In the scheme of laying the external sewage system, it is imperative to provide for its ventilation, since otherwise, over time, unpleasant odors will penetrate into the living quarters. Read about the rules for the sewer ventilation device in the article. Ventilation is equipped with a fan pipe, which can be placed on the lid of the septic tank or on the section of the pipeline that runs from the house to the wastewater storage tank.


Scheme of arrangement of autonomous external sewerage

The septic tank is equipped at the lowest point of the geological relief of the site. This arrangement allows you to most optimally perform the installation of external sewage. It should be laid in a straight line to the location of the outlet pipe of the internal sewage disposal system.

Choosing a drain location

When choosing the location of the drain, you should, first of all, make sure that the unpleasant smell does not penetrate into the living quarters. As a result, it should be located no closer than five meters from the house. The optimal distance will be ten meters, it is also not worth placing a septic tank too far, since this significantly increases the cost of laying the pipeline network. The external sewage connection to the house should not be carried out at a right angle. In addition, the following must be taken into account:

  • water sources should be located no closer than thirty meters;
  • a septic tank cannot be installed on the border of a neighboring plot;
  • for the convenience of pumping out sewage, it is better to place drains near the road;
  • especially careful sealing of the storage tank is needed when the groundwater is located close;
  • the laying of the pipeline network facilitates the natural slope of the terrain.

Rules for placing a septic tank on the site

A cesspool for sewerage has been used since ancient times. Previously, they did not waste energy on sealing its walls, and when the pit was filled, it was covered with earth and a new one was dug out. Now the walls are made of bricks, concrete rings and other building materials.

Liquid waste fractions seep through the soil at the bottom, being filtered, solid components gradually fill the mine, and after a while they need to be pumped out.

The arrangement of a cesspool is advisable if the volume of wastewater in a private house does not exceed the value of one cubic meter per day. If this limit is exceeded, environmental pollution will occur.

Instead of a cesspool, you can equip a sealed container for the accumulation of wastewater. In this case, a thorough waterproofing of the bottom and walls of the shaft is performed. Thus, the possibility of contamination of the soil and drinking sources is prevented. The disadvantage of this system is the need for frequent cleaning, since the sealed container fills up rather quickly.

Decide on the type of treatment plant

Treatment facilities for a private house are equipped in the form of a simple cesspool without a bottom or a sealed wastewater tank. To improve the filtration of wastewater allows a single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning or a two-chamber septic tank with a filter well. A variant of the construction of three chambers with a filtration field, as well as with the use of a biofilter and an air supply system is possible.


Tire filtration septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank, in essence, is a cesspool with a drainage layer. Crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand is poured at the bottom of the well. Passing through the filter layer, the liquid fractions of the waste are cleaned before entering the soil. After some time, the drainage layer must be replaced, as silt deposits are deposited on it. A single-chamber septic tank is suitable for a private house with a small amount of wastewater.

A two-chamber septic tank consists of a storage tank and a filter well, which are connected by an overflow pipe. In the sump, the faeces are partially clarified, then they fall into the mine with a drainage layer at the bottom. They seep into the soil already sufficiently cleaned.

A two-chamber septic tank is a popular sewerage option for a private house, as it does not require large financial costs for its equipment and works efficiently.

Installing a septic tank of two or more chambers, as well as a filtration field, virtually eliminates the possibility of environmental pollution. Settling in the first tank, the partially clarified effluent through the overflow pipe enters the next chamber with anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic residues. Read about how to make a septic tank with your own hands from improvised materials in the article

After successively passing through all sections, the effluent enters the filtration field, which is an underground area of ​​about thirty square meters, where the final soil cleaning takes place. If there is free space on the site, this method of arranging sewage is optimal.


Diagram of a septic tank with a biofilter

A septic tank with a biofilter is a station for deep sewage treatment. According to the principle of operation, it is similar to a treatment system with a filtration field, only in this case it is replaced by a water separator and anaerobic bacteria settled at the outlet of the overflow pipe into the fourth section, which cleans the wastewater by approximately ninety-five percent. Such water can be used for technical needs.

It is irrational to install deep cleaning stations in private houses with periodic residence, since if the sewage system of such a design is not constantly used, the bacteria that decompose organic residues die. In addition, they are quite expensive.

Sewer pipe laying depth

The depth of soil freezing is a fundamental factor when deepening sewer pipes into the ground. They must be laid below the freezing point, otherwise they will freeze in winter, and it will be impossible to use the sewer until the spring thaw. The appearance of even small ice growths on the internal surfaces of pipelines leads to a decrease in their permeability and the formation of blockages.


Map of normative freezing depths

In the southern regions, the depth of laying sewer pipes is fifty or more centimeters, in the central regions - seventy or more centimeters. You need to know exactly the depth of soil freezing in your area in order not to go deeper into the ground than necessary, since in this case the cost of doing the work will increase.

Organization of the withdrawal of the sewer pipe from the house

The organization of the withdrawal of the sewer pipe from the house depends on the stage of readiness for operation of the building. If the house has just been built, shrinkage of the foundation is possible, therefore, drilling a hole in it for the outlet of the sewer pipe must be noticeably larger in diameter than the cross section of the pipe itself.


Variants of schemes for the withdrawal of sewerage from the house

In the event that the house is just being built, the outlet pipe can be walled up during the laying of the foundation. The foundation of a house built several years ago will no longer settle, so the diameter of the hole drilled for the outlet pipe does not need to be increased. Plumbing fixtures should be located at a short distance from the common drain, since in this case it is easier to connect them to a common outlet. If the house has two or more floors, the bathrooms should be placed one above the other, in which case one riser can be dispensed with.

Do-it-yourself installation of external sewage in a private house

The external sewage system consists of a cleaning tank and a piping system connecting the septic tank to the house. Before performing installation work, an external sewerage scheme is applied on the site plan.


Practical options for removing sewers from the house

Then special pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm are selected, intended for outdoor use. They are usually orange in color. A trench is dug to lay the pipeline. Its depth is selected depending on the climatic features of the area, the composition and characteristics of the soil, as well as other factors. If necessary, the pipeline network is insulated.

The most time-consuming part of the work when installing a sewer with your own hands in a private house is digging a pit for a cesspool or septic tank. The optimal distance at which the septic tank is removed from the house is about ten meters.

The volume of storage capacity directly depends on the number of people permanently residing in the house and the frequency of their use of plumbing fixtures.

It is best to connect the storage tank to the outlet of the internal sewer in a straight line, bends and turns of the pipeline system increase the likelihood of clogging. For the convenience of cleaning, a long line in places of change of direction must be equipped with inspection hatches.
This is what a properly equipped external sewer looks like

Wastewater moves through the pipeline system by gravity, under the influence of gravitational forces, so you need to maintain the correct angle of inclination. If it is too small, large fragments of waste will be retained and the sewer will become clogged.

If the slope is too great, solid fractions will be thrown to the walls of the pipe, and again it will become clogged. Information on the correct sewer slope can be found in the article.

The desired angle is maintained and controlled by the building level when digging a trench, its depth increases as it approaches the storage tank or central sewer. A shock-absorbing cushion is laid at the bottom of the ditch, which is a sand mound, pipes are laid directly on it. If it is necessary to change the slope of the pipes, sand is poured in the right place.

An important operational parameter of the sewer system is the depth of the pipeline network. It must necessarily be below the freezing point of the soil in the region. Otherwise, in winter, frozen sewage can break the pipeline network and disable the sewer. To carry out repairs will have to wait for the spring thaw.

How to properly equip pipe insulation

To prevent the occurrence of emergencies in the cold season, it is better to perform thermal insulation of the sewer. Many modern materials, such as polyurethane foam, fiberglass or mineral wool, have good thermal insulation qualities. You can properly equip the thermal insulation of the pipe by simply wrapping it with insulation and placing it in a sheath made of a mixture of asbestos and cement.


Options for insulation of external sewerage

You can also fix a plastic film over the thermal insulation. In cold northern regions, to protect sewer pipes from freezing, the insulation layer is additionally equipped with an electric heating system. In any case, the pipeline network must be laid below the freezing depth of the soil, especially if snowdrifts melt in the spring on the surface. An interesting experience in laying outdoor sewer pipes can be gleaned from the following video.

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