In some dacha cooperatives, a fence made of slate and other materials cannot be installed between plots, because. they strongly obscure small areas. In this case, a chain-link fence would be a good way out - it does not prevent the sun from entering the site, does not impede the natural circulation of air. Chain-link is an inexpensive material that can last a very long time. Its additional plus is the possibility of using it as a support for climbing plants. The author of this successful invention was Karl Rabitz. The mesh began to be used already at the end of the 19th century, initially it was used during plastering work.
Chain-link is an affordable material that any owner of a summer cottage can afford to purchase. In order to create a chain-link fence with your own hands, in addition to the mesh, you will need thick wire, reinforcing bars, a cable and support poles.
A chain-link fence can be an excellent hedge, serve as a support for climbing plants. In this case, the site will be much more beautiful.
Today, manufacturers offer three types of chain-link mesh:
- non-galvanized mesh is one of the cheapest, it is better not to consider this option, because. after a few months it may become rusty;
- galvanized chain-link is most common - at a price it is slightly more expensive than non-galvanized, but it does not rust;
- plasticized chain-link - a metal mesh, which is coated on top with multi-colored polymers to protect against corrosion.
The latter option is very practical, and such a mesh looks much more aesthetically pleasing than a metal one. Therefore, the plasticized chain-link, although it has appeared recently, is already actively used by our gardeners.
When choosing a mesh, you should pay attention to the size of the cells, the smaller their size, the stronger and more expensive the mesh. A mesh with cells of 40-50 mm and a roll width of 1.5 m is quite suitable as a fence for a summer cottage.
Option # 1 - "stretch" chain-link fence
The device of the fence from the chain-link mesh can be different. The easiest way to make a fence is to stretch the net between the posts. Pillars can be used metal, wood or concrete.
An easy way to make a chain-link fence without the use of rods is to stretch the mesh between the posts and hang it on hooks. Of course, over time, it can sag, but such a fence can last a long time.
The number of posts depends on the distance between them and the length of the fence. As practice shows, the best distance between metal mesh fence posts is 2.5 m. Used pipes that are not affected by corrosion can be used as posts. Ready-made fence posts are now on sale, already painted, with hooks. Wooden poles must be treated with a protective compound along the entire length before installation. You can also use concrete poles and attach a mesh to them with wire or a clamp.
The height of the pillars is calculated as follows. With a gap between the ground and the fence, 5-10 cm must be added to the width of the grid, and then another meter and a half, taking into account the underground part. As a result, you will get the average post height required to install the future fence. The load on the corner posts will be a little more, they should be dug in deeper, therefore their length should also exceed the length of ordinary posts by about 20 cm.
The bases of all pillars for greater strength are best concreted. The posts are the frame of the fence, after you install them, you can begin to attach the grid. After the concrete has hardened, hooks are attached to the posts or welded (if the post is metal) to secure the net. As a material for fastenings, screws, rod, nails, wire are suitable - any material that bends into a hook. We straighten the roll with the mesh and install it at the corner post, hang the mesh on hooks.
To ensure good tension and strength of the structure, we vertically thread a rod or thick wire into the first row of mesh cells, attach the rod to a wooden pole or weld it to a metal one. The mesh fixed in this way will not bend or sag, as is often the case without such fastening.
Then the roll is unwound on the span, to the next post. A little further than the place where the mesh connects to the pole, we pass the rod in the same way. We hold on to the rod and pull the net, if you don’t use the rod and just pull it with your hands, you can pull the net unevenly. It is best to do this with two people - one person at the bottom edge, the other at the top.
Now reinforcement is threaded into the mesh horizontally at a distance of at least 5 cm along both edges, top and bottom. Horizontal rods are welded or attached to poles. If you stretch the mesh without rods, over time it will sag, and the rods will maintain its tension.
Scheme of a galvanized mesh fence device with reinforcement broach along the upper and lower sides. Such a fence is a stronger structure.
The fence is almost ready, now you need to bend the hooks on the poles and paint the poles. It is better to wrap the protruding wire "antennae" down so that no one is injured. It is convenient to thread the wire through the top row of cells and wrap the protruding edges around it.
Here, the “antennae” are neatly bent down to the rod, you can dry things on such a fence, there is no risk of injury
The "antennae" of the upper cells must be bent to avoid accidental injury. In this photo, they are slightly bent - there is a risk of injury or tearing clothes
If you do not want to use reinforcement and concrete pillars, you can use the simplest technique presented in this video:
Option # 2 - erecting a fence from sections
To make a fence of this type, sections are needed where the mesh will be mounted. First, similarly to the tension fence device, marking is made and poles are installed.
This scheme can be taken as a basis for determining the proportions of the dimensions of the future structure (click to enlarge)
You will need to buy a 40/5 mm corner to make the frame. We determine the length of the frame in this way: subtract about 10-15 cm from the distance between the pillars - this is its length. We subtract the same amount from the height of the column above the soil level - the resulting amount is the width of the frame. Corners are welded into rectangular structures. You can make the size of the sections based on the mesh size (1.5 -2 m), you can unwind the roll and, if necessary, reduce the mesh size to the desired grinder.
Then strips of metal are horizontally welded to the posts (length 15-25 cm, width 5 cm, cross section 5 mm). Along the edges of the post, you need to step back 20 cm, install the section between the two posts and, using welding, attach it to the horizontal stripes. Now it remains only to paint the new fence.
Rods with a cross section of 4 mm are threaded through the mesh from 4 sides, first to the extreme row, then from above and below, the mesh must be well stretched and the rods welded to the corners of the section. (The rods are welded to the horizontal corners). It turns out a section from a corner with a mesh netting welded onto rods from the inside
On an inclined section, it will not work to make a tension fence; in an inclined position, the mesh cannot be stretched. For a sloping site, you can make a sectional fence by installing sections on both sides of the posts at different distances according to the soil level.
Every owner who is familiar with welding can make a fence from a chain-link mesh on their own. As a rule, 2-3 people cope with the work in a relatively short time. Dare!
From a grid are widely used at a protection of seasonal dachas. Anyone can install a chain-link fence with a minimum of tools at hand. Subject to the installation technology and the choice of high-quality materials, such a fence will last 15-20 years. Before starting work, you need to study the types and characteristics of the grid, as well as study the instructions in detail in order to avoid mistakes.
The mesh is made of black and galvanized wire, so the quality of the chain-link varies. Black wire mesh is the cheapest and most short-lived. It becomes covered with rust after the first fog or rain, and after 3-4 years it becomes completely unusable. You can extend the life of a non-galvanized chain-link by using paint or liquid rubber, which should be applied to the mesh before it is installed, and then periodically update the protective layer.
Galvanized wire mesh is not afraid of corrosion, and therefore lasts longer. It costs a little more than black, but it does not need protective treatment at all. from a galvanized chain-link look neat and attractive.
The plasticized chain-link is becoming more and more popular. This metal mesh is covered with a dense layer of anti-corrosion polymer, due to which it has an increased resistance to weathering. In addition, the polymer is colored, the mesh looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. And although such a chain-link is quite expensive, the demand for it is constantly growing.
In addition to quality, the chain-link mesh differs in mesh size, wire thickness and roll height. Cells can have dimensions from 10 to 65 mm, wire diameter 1-5 mm. The height of the roll is from 0.8 to 2 m, but the most popular is 1.5 m. The standard length of the mesh in a roll is 10 m, rolls of 20 m are made to order. The smaller the cells, the more expensive the cost of the mesh, because this increases material consumption .
| Type of chain-link mesh | Wire diameter, mm | Mesh width, mm | Living section of the mesh, % | Estimated weight of 1m2 mesh, kg |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1,20 | 1000 | 55,0 | 4,52 | |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,20 | 1000 | 61,0 | 33,73 |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,20 | 1000 | 69,8 | 2,78 |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,40 | 1000 | 65,5 | 3,8 |
| 1,20 | 1000,1500 | 75,3 (78,9) | 2,20 (1,94) | |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,40 | 1000,1500 | 71,5 (76,2) | 3,00 (2,57) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,40 | 1000,1500 | 76,3 (77,0) | 3,24 (2,74) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,60 | 1000,1500 | 73,3 (77,0) | 3,24 (2,74) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,80 | 1000,1500 | 76,0 (78,9) | 3,25 (2,75) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,60 | 1000,1500 | 77,5 (80,9) | 2,57 (2,17) |
| 1,4 | 1000-2000 | 83,6 | 1,77 | |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,4 | 1000-2000 | 87,0 | 1,33 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,6 | 1000-2000 | 85,7 | 1,74 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,6 | 1000-2000 | 88,0 | 1,39 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 87,0 | 1,76 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 89 | 1,46 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 87,9 | 1,81 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 91 | 1,1 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 90,7 | 1,36 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 91,7 | 1,23 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 90,7 | 1,70 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 89 | 2,44 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 92 | 1,41 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 92 | 1,74 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 94 | 1,10 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 93 | 1,53 |
Netting prices
Rabitz
Types of mesh fences
The protection from a chain-link grid happens sectional and tension. The first option involves the manufacture of rectangular metal sections, inside which the mesh is fixed. For sections, metal corners, profile and round pipes of small diameter are used. Connect them by welding or bolts, if not. Such a fence looks more aesthetically pleasing and attractive, the metal frame prevents the mesh from sagging.
The tension fence is faster and easier to install; its design consists only of supporting pillars and the grid itself. The mesh is fastened with steel wire, clamps or hung on hooks welded to the posts. Pipes of different diameters, concrete columns, wooden beams are suitable for pillars.
Installation of fence posts
For both sectional and tension fences, the marking, preparation and installation of poles is carried out using the same technology, only in the first case the poles should be stronger. This is due to the additional load from the metal sections; if the supports are too thin, the fence will definitely warp.
For work you will need:
- roulette;
- wooden pegs;
- a skein of thin rope;
- building level;
- manual drill;
- crushed stone and sand;
- solution;
- profile pipes 60x40 mm;
- Bulgarian;
- primer.
Step 1. Installing the corner posts
The area allotted for the site is cleared of vegetation, if necessary, leveled, the location of the extreme pillars is determined. Experienced builders recommend making corner posts from pipes of a larger cross section than intermediate ones, and digging them deeper. For example, if a 40x40 mm profile pipe is taken for intermediate supports, then for corner supports it is better to take 60x40 mm and 15-20 cm longer.
Proceed to the installation of pillars:
When the solution hardens a little, you can remove the spacers and start marking under the intermediate racks.
Step 2. Markup
A rope is pulled tightly between the corner supports at a height of 15 cm from the ground - this will be the fence line. The line must be divided into equal segments corresponding to the width of the span. The optimal span for a chain-link fence is 2-2.5 m; if you increase it, the grid will definitely sag. They retreat from the extreme pillar to the desired distance and drive a peg into the ground, and so on to the opposite corner. All pegs should be in contact with the stretched rope and be at an equal distance from each other.
Video - A new way to install support poles
Step 3. Installing intermediate supports
In place of the pegs, holes are drilled for the posts and the bottom is covered with sand. To make it more convenient to control the height of the supports, another rope is pulled along the upper edge of the corner posts. Now the pipes are inserted into the pits, leveled in height and vertical, sprinkled with crushed stone and soil and tightly tamped with crowbar. Concrete is poured from above and the surface is leveled.
If it is planned to install a tension fence, and the soil on the site is quite dense, intermediate supports can simply be hammered into the ground and not concreted. To do this, holes are drilled to half the required depth, pipes are inserted there and hammered with a sledgehammer. To protect the upper edge of the posts from deformation, take a larger piece of pipe, weld a steel plate on one side and put it on top of the post. After driving the supports, the pits are covered with gravel and sand, spilled with water for better compaction and well rammed.
Step 4. Welding hooks
After about a week, when the concrete has hardened sufficiently, installation can continue. You can fix the grid on the poles with wire or clamps, but it is more convenient to hook it on hooks. Profile pipes with hooks already welded are on sale, but if you have a welding machine, it is cheaper to make them yourself. For this, pieces of a steel bar, screws, nails, even thick wire are suitable - everything that can be welded to the pipe and bent. On a pole 2 m high, it is enough to make 3 hooks: at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, 10 cm from the top of the pipe and in the middle.
Video - Do-it-yourself chain-link fence
Step 1 Attaching the Mesh
A chain-link roll is placed near the corner post, unwound a little and the cells are put on hooks. To securely fix the edge of the mesh, you need to take a piece of reinforcement with a cross section of 8 mm and a length of 1.5 m and thread it into the cells of the first row. After that, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. Now, when the roll is tensioned, the mesh will not sag. Having fixed the end of the mesh, the roll is transferred to the next support, carefully unwinding it.
Stepping back from the junction of the chain-link with a pipe of 10-15 cm, a steel bar is again threaded into the cells. This time you do not need to weld it, it will just help to evenly stretch the mesh. When the mesh is put on hooks, the rod is taken out, the roll is unwound for another span, the reinforcement is inserted again, and so on until the very end of the fence. To connect two canvases, use a wire from the extreme vertical row of one of the rolls.
Step 2. Fixing the canvas from sagging
Even a well-stretched canvas sags a little over time, so at the installation stage, you need to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the posts. You will need a wire with a cross section of 6 mm and a welding machine. The wire is threaded into the second or third row of cells horizontally along the entire fence. In places where the grid fits to the posts, the wire is welded. Then, in the same way, the lower edge of the mesh is strengthened, and at the end, the hooks are bent. Now the fence canvas is securely fixed on the supports and will not bend or sag.
Step 3. The final stage
When the fence is installed, you need to complete the finishing touches:
- put plastic plugs on top of the pipes;
- paint the posts
- twist the upper antennae of the chain-link in pairs by 2 turns and bend down.
At this point, the installation of the tension fence is considered completed.
Video - Connecting the chain-link in one roll
Installation of a sectional fence
Section manufacturing
Step 2: Preparing the Racks
Rectangular plates 20x5 cm and 4-5 mm thick are cut from sheet steel. They take one plate, apply it perpendicular to the pole at a height of 20 cm from the ground and weld it. The second plate is welded at the top, stepping back from the edge of 15-20 cm. In the same way, the plates are attached to the remaining supports.
Step 3 Mounting sections
The first section is placed between the pillars, lifted and leveled. Then the sides are welded to the plates and proceed to the next span. It is very important to correctly align the sections in height so that the top rails of the frame form a single line. After installing all the sections, they clean the welding spots, prime and paint the fence frame.
Read step-by-step instructions on how to do it in our new article.
Video - How to make a chain-link fence
Chain-link mesh is a practical material, ideal for creating fences, especially boundary fences. This is due to its strength, lack of shadow from the fence and ease of installation. Today we will consider the nuances of choosing a chain-link mesh, as well as the main issues related to the technology of its installation.
Types of chain-link mesh
Plasticized chain-link meshThe strength of the fence, its appearance and cost will directly depend on what type of mesh you choose. There are three main types of chain-link mesh:
- plasticized;
- black non-galvanized;
- galvanized.
The plasticized mesh is covered with a polymer protective layer, which extends the life of the material, making it more resistant to corrosion. In addition, this coating is distinguished by a variety of colors, so that the mesh fence can be matched to the roof or facade of the house.
Non-galvanized or, as it is also called, black chain-link mesh is the most inexpensive variety. But it has a significant drawback - a short service life (3-4 years) due to rapid rusting. For longer operation, the mesh will need to be regularly painted or treated with water-repellent compounds.
Galvanized netting tolerates high humidity well, does not rust and, unlike black mesh, does not need regular painting. However, its price is much higher.
Cell size and shape may vary. Also, the grid can have a different shape of cells and their size. The shape does not affect anything except the appearance, but you should pay attention to the size of the cells when choosing. They can vary from 2.5 to 6 cm, and the smaller the cell, the stronger the fence will be. Accordingly, the price of fine-mesh mesh will be higher.
To determine this parameter, you need to take into account the purpose of the fence. For example, for the construction of a corral for small pets and birds, it is better to use a medium-sized mesh, and large-mesh material is also suitable for delimiting a suburban area or a summer residence.
How to make a chain link fence
There are two ways to make a fence from a chain-link mesh - make it from a chain-link and a section corner and then connect them or fix the mesh between pre-installed support posts.
In the second case, the cost of the fence will be lower and its installation will be easier, however, in appearance, such a fence is inferior to a sectional one. The first option is more beautiful and durable, but will require additional costs for the purchase of a corner for sections. Below we will consider both methods, but before that it is worthwhile to figure out which supports for the mesh fence are better to use, because in any of the options you cannot do without them.
Chain link fence posts
When installing a chain-link mesh, wooden or metal supports are usually used. Wooden poles are less durable, and their use is justified only if it is possible to purchase the material inexpensively, and the fence itself will be temporary.
Before starting work, wooden supports should be thoroughly cleaned of bark and cut to the required length. They are usually deepened below the freezing level of the soil by 15 cm. The underground part of the pillars must be impregnated with a waterproofing compound, and the rest of the surface should be painted, this will extend the life of the fence. The mesh to such supports is usually fastened with nails or special clamps.
Installation of wooden fence posts Metal poles are used more often due to their durability. As a standard, for these purposes, round or square pipes with a cross section of 6-12 cm are purchased, while their wall thickness should be 2 mm or more. If you have an acute question of saving, then you can buy pipes in the purchase of scrap metal, choosing, albeit not new, but strong enough products without signs of corrosion.
Those who are not constrained by funds can purchase ready-made supports designed specifically for mounting the grid. They are already painted and equipped with fixing hooks.
As an alternative to metal and wood, you can use concrete supports. However, in this case, you will have to face difficulties when installing the chain-link, since it will be possible to fix it only with the help of special brackets or cables woven into the mesh, and this is not very convenient.
Chain link fence
The secret of a reliable and durable fence lies not only in the use of high-quality materials, but also in observing the technological aspects of its assembly. Consider how to make a chain-link fence, fixing it between metal supports. The width of the grid installed in our example is 2 m.
Installation of such a fence will not require significant effort and even two people can handle it. To do this, it is not necessary to have construction skills, the main thing is to responsibly approach each of the stages of work.
Marking the territory for the fence
The construction of the fence begins with the designation of its contour. To do this, marks (small wooden or metal pegs) are driven in at the corners of the site and connected to each other with a cord or rope. Then you need to measure the length of the rope - this will be the required net footage. But when buying, it is still advisable to take material with an allowance of several meters
It is necessary to mark the site by driving in pegs It should be borne in mind that it is possible to build a fence from a tension net-netting only on a relatively flat area, since it is problematic to fix it in an inclined position. If there is a significant slope, then terracing will be the only way out. To do this, at the junction of different heights, you will have to install a pole (stronger and longer than the others), to which parts of the grid will be attached from different sides and at different levels.
With large height differences, it is more rational to make a sectional fence Pole installation
In the designated places, you need to dig holes for support pillars. The optimal depth of the wells is 120 cm. The installation should begin with the corner supports, which account for the greatest pressure.
First of all, layers of rubble and sand are poured into the bottom of the pits, each of which is carefully compacted. Then the lower part of the pipes is treated with an anti-corrosion compound, the supports are installed in the wells and poured with concrete. The solution is mixed from one part of sand and two parts of crushed stone and cement. The amount of water is added so that the mixture is not very liquid.
Note! When installing the supports, it is necessary to check their verticality using the building level.
The concrete around the support posts should be pierced several times with a bayonet spade to compact it. After the corner supports, all the remaining ones are installed in the same way, while their location, in order to avoid distortions, must be controlled by a pre-tensioned cord.
Control the location of the supports, guided by the cord You can proceed to the installation of the grid only after waiting for the concrete to solidify completely, it will take about 7 days. If you do not want to wait, when strengthening the pillars, you can do without the use of mortar. To do this, a layer of rubble stone is poured into the free space in the pits, rammed, then a layer of soil is laid on top and rammed again. The finishing touch is another layer of stone. This method, as well as concrete, gives the fence sufficient stability.
Stretching the mesh and fixing it on poles
Tension fence scheme If you purchased ordinary pipes, and not special supports already equipped with hooks, then after the foundation has dried, you will need to weld fasteners onto the poles. They can be nails, scraps of strong wire and other similar materials that can be bent into a hook shape.
Next, comes the turn of the installation of the grid. The chain-link is started from the first corner support, hanging the net on hooks. So that it does not bend, a metal rod with a cross section of at least 3 mm is inserted into the first row of cells and welded to the pole.
Then the grid is unwound further, to the next support. For uniform tension, it is better to do this by holding on to a reinforcing bar threaded vertically into the cells. It is more convenient to distribute the grid along the supports with two people, so that one participant follows the top edge, and the other follows the bottom. If possible, it is worth bringing another person to the case, who will put the chain-link on hooks in parallel.
It is better to strengthen the fence with rods welded to the posts along the top and bottom along its entire length, this will save the mesh from sagging. For a high fence, you can also weld a few stiffeners in the center.
Advice! Corner supports should not be bypassed with a single mesh web, it should be cut and each part should be fixed separately. This will reduce the load on the poles.
The fastening hooks must be bent If during work you run out of a roll of mesh in the middle of the span, then you can remove the wire from the last row of the chain-link, attach the canvas to the new one and connect them, weaving it between them. In this case, you will get a continuous canvas without seams.
After the entire mesh around the perimeter of the site is deployed, you need to bend the fastening hooks on the supports. If there is an unnecessary residue of material, step back one cell from the fixed edge and cut off the excess.
The final touch is painting the posts of the finished fence. If you have chosen a non-galvanized chain-link for the fence, then you should also paint it. It is advisable to twist the wire antennae that will remain on the upper edge of the mesh into several turns and bend down so that no one is injured about them. The fence is ready.
An example of the design of the upper edge of the fence Sectional chain link fence
The device of a sectional fence from a chain-link also deserves separate consideration. The main difference between this design and the previous one is the presence of separate frame sections on which the mesh is fixed.
All preparatory work and the installation technology of the supports are similar to those described above, however, it is recommended to choose stronger poles, since they will have to hold more weight.
For the frame, you will need to purchase a corner with a wall thickness of at least 4-5 mm. The dimensions of the frame are determined as follows - 10-15 cm are subtracted from the distance between the supporting pillars and the height of the pillar above the ground. The resulting parameters will be equal to the length and width of each section.
The corners are connected by welding at right angles to each other, so that a rectangle of the required size is formed.
Scheme of a sectional fence from a chain-link mesh Next, straighten the chain-link roll. If its dimensions do not correspond to the frame, the excess can be cut off with a grinder. To fix the mesh, reinforcing bars must be inserted along all edges of the fragment, and then welded to the frame. Thus, you should get a section of four corner fragments, inside of which a mesh is welded onto the rods.
To fix the sections on the supports, small strips of metal are attached to the poles. The optimal length for them is from 15 to 30 cm, width is about 5 cm and thickness is 5 mm. The strips are welded in a horizontal position, retreating about 20 cm from both edges of the supports. The sections are then placed between the posts and welded to the strips. The finished fence is recommended to be painted.
The result of the work is a solid fence for your site. Summing up, we can say that the independent construction of a chain-link fence is a simple task that almost everyone can do. All you need is a couple of helpers, materials and the right attitude. Successful work!
A simple and inexpensive way to mark the boundaries of ownership of the territory is to install a chain-link fence. Of course, today there are many alternative materials that have a more presentable appearance, for example,. But they are more expensive and time-consuming to install, more suitable for the capital outdoor fencing of a country house.
And if you need to fence off a building site, a summer cottage, separate an economic zone from a residential one, or make an aviary for animals?
Is it reasonable to spend a lot of money and a lot of time, to attract specialists, if you can make a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands in one day, and the result will be achieved? The following describes the manufacturing technology, calculation and installation in the form of step-by-step instructions.
Benefits of a chain link fence
- saving financial resources. The price of a chain-link fence is practically the lowest of all possible fence options. Only a wattle fence can compete in price, but otherwise it will lose;
- light weight. There is no need for a massive frame or foundation pouring;
- strength and resistance to environmental factors: moisture, temperature extremes, ultraviolet, fire, mechanical damage;
- light transmission. A chain-link fence does not create obstacles for the penetration of sunlight, which means that there will be no shaded areas on the site and the plants will feel comfortable in any part of it;
- undemanding maintenance and no need for repairs;
- ability to withstand a significant load. For example, it is easier to break through a wooden fence than to break a metal net;
- availability. You can buy a chain-link mesh at any hardware store or on the market;
- a large assortment, allows you to choose the one that is best suited for specific needs;
- high installation speed. You can install a chain-link fence with two people in one day.
Of course, the mesh fence is not without drawbacks, including: unattractive appearance, "transparency" of the fence and the need for painting. Some of the shortcomings are easily leveled if you know how to choose the right chain-link mesh.
Types of mesh chain-link for the fence - which is better
When choosing which chain-link mesh to use for fencing, you need to take into account its main parameters:
1. Production material:
- low-carbon steel (mesh is more ductile);
- stainless steel (rigid mesh).
2. Outer coating:
- ungalvanized chain link. Wire thickness - 1.2-5 mm, mesh size 50-100 mm. Such a mesh is prone to rust, and needs to be painted;
- galvanized chain link. Wire thickness - 1.6-5 mm, mesh size 50-100 mm. Does not need protection, has a long service life;
- plasticized (metal with a polymer coating). Wire thickness - 2.5-2.8 mm, mesh size 25-50 mm. More presentable, with a high-quality coating has a long service life.
Advice. Ask the seller for a certificate that confirms the quality of the coating. A simple PVC coating without additives that guarantee its resistance to ultraviolet and frost will soon become unusable.
3. Netting cell dimensions
The smaller the cells, the smaller the living creatures will crawl through the grid. This is true when building a fence, for example, for chickens or ducklings. But, such a mesh will be heavier, it will take more metal to make it, which means it will be more expensive. For a fence, the best option is a grid with a cell of 50x50.
After the grid is selected, it's time to move on to the main work, namely, to create a sketch of the fence, calculate materials and install the fence (tension and sectional).
How to make a chain-link fence with your own hands
Stage 1. Chain link fence drawing
A drawing or sketch is a working graphic document that contains the following data:
- the location of the fence installation, taking into account access roads, trees, houses, other buildings on the site, etc.;
- relief features. If the site has a slope or elevation changes, the diagram will help determine which is more appropriate: level the soil or make a cascading fence;
- fence length. Since the width is determined by the width of the grid, there is no need to consider the length;
- place of installation of supporting pillars and props.
Types of chain-link fences by frame type
When designing a fence, a decision is also made as to which chain-link fence frame will be used. Due to the fact that there are three ways to attach the mesh, there are three types of frame.
- tension fence- easy to mount. The price of a tension fence from a grid the chain-link - is minimum. In order to build it, you need to install supports and stretch the grid. The design flaw is that the mesh will sag over time;
- stretch fence with broach. A broach in the form of a strong wire serves as a support supporting the mesh, preventing it from sagging;
- sectional fence. Requires more expenses for the purchase of a corner for the frame and longer time for the manufacture of sections. Although you can buy ready-made sections on the market. Naturally, the price of a sectional fence made of chain-link mesh is the highest, but the design is more reliable and practical.
Note. With uneven terrain on the site, it is better to give preference to a fence from sections, this will allow you to put a fence from a chain-link mesh, taking into account elevation changes, without leveling the ground plane.
The correct drawing of a chain-link fence contains a description of the fence with key dimensions and main nodes, incl. arrangement of corners.
Stage 2. Material for building a fence: selection and calculation
Installing a chain-link fence will take only one or two days if you prepare all the materials and tools necessary for the job in advance.
Construction Materials:
- Rabitz. Its requirements are described above.
- Tension wire (when installing a tension fence). The function is to support the mesh, provide additional attachment points and eliminate the possibility of sagging. Galvanized wire with a thickness of 2 mm is suitable for the fence. (from 130 rubles/m.p.).
As a stronger alternative to wire, reinforcement is used that is welded between posts or a thin pipe. These materials exclude mesh theft.
- Support posts for a chain-link fence.
- Profile corners (for the manufacture of a sectional fence). With the help of corners, a frame of individual sections is formed, which are installed on support pillars. The average price of a corner 40x40x3 is 97 rubles / m.p.
- Thin wire or other fasteners for attaching the mesh.
- Cement and sand (for concreting supporting pillars).
- Protective compositions for processing wood or metal.
From the tool you will need: a tape measure, a rope for marking the site, a shovel or a drill.
What poles can be used for a chain-link fence
metal poles
A hollow profile of round or square section is used. The versatility of a metal pole is undeniable. The iron support does not need to be processed during installation (only priming and painting), any kind of fasteners are welded to the metal.
For a chain-link fence, a round post with a diameter of 60 mm is suitable. (average price for a metal thickness of 2 mm - 159 rubles / m.p.) or rectangular, with a section of 40x60 (price for a wall thickness of 2 mm - 163 rubles / m.p.).
wooden poles
Although this is the simplest solution, wooden poles have the disadvantage of being susceptible to weather and microbial activity. In addition, dense wood (oak, elm) is not cheap. You can use more popular species - pine, birch. With proper processing and constant care, they will last 20-25 years. However, in practice, wooden chain-link fence posts are used for temporary structures. For a fence, a pole with a size of 100x100 mm (70 rubles / m.p.) is suitable.
brick pillars
Strong and massive supports are too expensive for a mesh fence, therefore, they are not used in practice. In addition, under them it is necessary to fill the foundation.
The material was prepared for the site www.site
concrete pillars
Relatively inexpensive material. You can do it yourself or buy ready-made ones (approximate price for one support 80x80x2000 - 350 rubles / piece). It is relevant if the store is in the immediate vicinity of the installation site, otherwise the cost of transport will significantly increase the cost of a fence from a chain-link mesh. At the same time, fastening the mesh to a concrete pole has its own specifics.
Asbestos-cement pipes
They are characterized by relative cheapness (the price of a pipe is 100x3000 - 300 rubles), strength and resistance to decay. But stretching the mesh is inconvenient, requiring the use of clamps or clamps. In addition, the pipes are hollow, they just need to be closed with plugs, otherwise the frozen water will simply break the pipe from the inside.
Stage 3. Calculation of the fence from the chain-link mesh
- Number of m.p. (linear meters) of the grid depends on the size of the plot. Usually the chain-link is sold in rolls of 10 m. The price of a non-galvanized mesh chain-link 50x50x2 mm - from 48 rubles / sq.m. The price of a polymer mesh 50x50x2.2 mm - from 221 rubles / sq.m.
- The length of the wire for stretching is equal to two lengths of the fence (or three if the wire is installed in the middle). With a fence height of 1500 mm, 2-3 pieces are enough.
- The number of posts depends on the perimeter of the site (total length of the fence) and is calculated based on the fact that the maximum distance between adjacent posts is 2,500 mm. This rule is the same for stretch fences and sectional fences.
- The length of the profile corner is equal to the perimeter of the frame multiplied by the number of sections.
- Wire for fastening or other fasteners depending on the method of fastening.
Stage 4. Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands
The sequence of work.
1. Soil surface preparation
The installation site of the fence does not need serious cleaning. It is enough to remove debris and eliminate interfering plants and shrubs. At the same time, plants that will grow near the grid (and not near the supporting post) can be left if their development does not lead to deformation of the grid.
2. Pouring the foundation for a chain-link fence
Do you need a foundation for a chain-link fence? There are fences installed on the foundation. The pouring of the concrete base can only be explained by the installation of a grid using heavy metal sections. Which in most cases is unjustified.
3. Installation of posts for a chain-link fence
Fence post preparation
- Processing wooden poles- the timber should be treated with an antiseptic (a solution that prevents wood decay) according to the level of penetration into the soil. The SENEZH product line has proven itself well (price from 90 rubles/l).
- Processing of metal poles- iron supports must be derusted and coated with a corrosion inhibitor (prevention of rust development). Conferum products are in demand, which supplies several types of primers.
How deep should chain-link fence posts be buried?
Despite the minimum net windage, the chain-link is heavy, with a length of 2.5 meters (between the supports) and a height of 1.5 m, the fence can tilt or fall. Therefore, support pillars are installed to a depth of up to 1 meter, under certain conditions (fence height, type of soil on the site), the minimum depth of the pit is 50-80 cm.
Ways to install fence posts
Installation on hard ground (clay)
Installation is possible in two ways:
- Firstly, by driving or screwing the supports to the desired depth. This method has a significant drawback, which manifests itself in the fact that it is difficult to maintain the installation level when clogging and it is easy to deform the top of the clogged pipe. Therefore, it must be covered with plywood to avoid deformation.
- Secondly, by drilling / digging a hole for it, followed by pouring concrete. In this case, the installation depth of the support is chosen taking into account the level of soil freezing. However, some masters argue that this is not necessary.
Installation on loose and heaving soils
The technology is more time-consuming, here the masters also distinguish two installation options:
- First, install the support 20 cm below the freezing level of the soil. Then the heaving of the soil will not squeeze out the pipe.
- Secondly, replace the soil around the support. To do this, you need to make a hole of a larger diameter (twice the diameter of the pipe) and replace the soil in this place with crushed stone, at a height of 40 cm to the soil surface, the column is concreted. This method creates drainage, which takes on the heaving of the soil and levels it. In this case, the column will definitely not lead.
Advice. Manual drilling, especially with a large number of holes for posts, is a very laborious task. It is better to find / rent / buy a motor drill, with which guide holes of 50-60 cm are made, the remaining 40-50 cm of the pipe (pillar) are clogged with a sledgehammer.
How to install chain link fence posts
Installing posts for a chain-link fence is no different from arranging other types of fences. Installation order:
- corner posts are installed first. When tensioned, they are subjected to the greatest load, so it is advisable to reinforce them with spacers (oblique supports). The purpose of the struts is to prevent the tilt of the support. As an option, you can put more powerful pillars (thick-walled) in the corners;
- poles are installed at the break of the fence (at the corners of the fence, at the corners);
- a rope is stretched between the already installed pillars, along which, first of all, supports for gates and gates are mounted;
- the entrance group is set up ( , ). Please note that the entrance group of the chain-link fence is always made in the form of a section, reinforced with additional jumpers;
- after that, ordinary pillars are installed. It is advisable to make the distance between them the same. This rule is mandatory when installing a sectional fence.
Note. Hollow metal pipes are closed with plugs to prevent water from getting inside and rust.
4. Guide wire for stretching the chain-link mesh
The task of the wire (cable) is to ensure a strong tension of the mesh between the posts. The necessary tension is provided by such methods of fastening the chain-link:
- tensioner;
- lanyard;
- hook with a long thread;
- staples, clamps, spans and clamps only keep the wire from sagging on intermediate posts. They are not used as tensioners.
The order of stretching the chain-link: one end of the net is tied to the corner support post, and the other is stretched. If the length of the fence is too long, intermediate fasteners are installed. Their function is to support the wire.
Note. Some users advise passing the guide wire through the grid cells. But this option is only suitable when installing a small fence, because stretching the wire along the entire length, and then installing the mesh on supports is a difficult and pointless task.
5. Fastening the chain-link mesh to the posts
- install on a stretched tension wire;
- fasten to the armature;
- install in a section and secure in separate sections.
How to stretch the mesh between the pillars of the supports when building a tension fence
The chain-link mesh roll is installed vertically near the corner post (attached to metal posts). In this case, the folded edges of the mesh should be oriented upwards. This reduces the risk of injury from the sharp ends of the wire.
Advice. If a non-galvanized chain-link mesh is installed, then the craftsmen recommend raising it above the ground by 100-150 mm.
The grid is fixed in several places on the support. Then, gradually unwinding, the mesh is pulled and at the same time attached to the upper horizontal jumper (wire or reinforcement).
When the first roll is over, the mesh is pulled over the bottom jumper. In this case, it is important to unravel all the tangled spirals of the grid.
After that, the second roll is screwed to the first roll (together), and the second roll is unwound with tension.
Note. If the work is carried out with an assistant, then the connection (bundle of rolls) can be performed on a canopy. If on your own, then you need to connect the pieces when the mesh is not completely stretched, and its edge can be stretched along the length on the ground. Sometimes tying is done by using a wooden bridge to which the edges of both rolls are attached.
After installing the chain-link mesh along the entire length of the fence, the mesh is fixed on the middle jumper.
When pulling the wire, special attention should be paid to the corners. Here you need to be extremely careful to avoid skewing the mesh web.
How to stretch the mesh between the pillars of the supports when building a sectional fence
First, let's look at how to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh
- from a metal corner you need to make a frame. Frame parameters: length is equal to the length of the support pipe minus 100-150 mm; the width is equal to the distance between adjacent supports;
- the corner is dissolved into blanks with the help of a grinder;
- blanks are welded into a frame;
- Next, we work with the grid. The required size is unwound from the chain-link roll and separated by twisting the wire;
- a reinforcing bar is inserted into all four sides of the grid. The rod allows you to stretch the mesh to the edge of the corner;
- the rod is welded to the edges of the frame inside the corner. Thus, the chain-link is fastened to the corner.
There is another option, which involves welding on the inside of the corner of metal pins (hooks) 3 mm thick. Then the pins are bent inward with pliers, and a mesh is pulled over them. After the entire mesh is stretched, you need to weld the edges of the hooks to make a loop. This eliminates the possibility of the grid slipping.
After the frame is ready, we proceed to its installation. To fasten a separate section to a profile pipe, you need to weld a metal plate onto the support and weld the section to it.
It should be noted that it is very difficult for a beginner without experience to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh. The difficulties are related to the fact that:
- it is problematic to make sections of the same size;
- it is difficult to install a mesh segment tightly, without sagging;
- the need to perform welding work;
- the complexity of the installation of fence sections.
Decorative ornament of a chain-link fence
The mesh fence does not have a bright design and attractiveness, but if desired, it will result in a nice and durable fence for the site.
Mesh Fence Decor Ideas
- openwork weaving. It is carried out with a thin wire on a grid with large cells. A simple pattern can be done with your own hands;
- decorative gardening. Planting weaving or climbing plants along a mesh fence will create a hedge around the site. Alternatively, you can attach hanging flower pots, as in the photo on the right;
- in order not to wait until the greenery grows and braids the fence, the grid can be decorated with decorative wire flowers;
- creative design. With a little imagination, you can create original and fun decorations for a chain-link fence.
Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - video
The cost of a chain-link fence
The total costs for the construction of a chain-link fence are determined taking into account the materials used and their quantity. For example, the cost of the material was indicated as they were discussed. The cost per meter is easy to calculate, knowing the consumption of each material and the length of the fence.
The price of a chain-link fence for work with installation for 1 r.m. shown in the table
Thus, a chain-link fence is a cost-effective and prefabricated type of fence that you can do yourself.
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