The place that the bath procedure occupies in Russian culture and everyday life is difficult to overestimate. And it is quite clear that one of the first buildings on any suburban plot in our country, almost simultaneously with housing, is a bathhouse. However modern baths They have gone quite far in their perfection from those buildings in which our ancestors loved to steam.
Of course, even today you can often find bath houses into which you have to manually carry water from a well, a pump, or simply from a river, and they can only be heated with wood. However modern people have already become accustomed to comfort in all areas of life, so various engineering communications in a bathhouse today are almost a mandatory attribute.
Yes, many fans of steam and brooms appreciate the process of preparing the steam room for the bathing ritual, receiving true pleasure from chopping wood, heating the stove or carrying buckets of water. But still, most of us are accustomed to value our time and do not like to make unnecessary efforts. Therefore, it would be a good idea to find out what kind of communications are needed in the bathhouse. modern type, about the features of their laying, as well as other important nuances.
In many ways, the set of communications that need to be connected to the sauna house is determined by local conditions. In particular, the presence or absence of centralized engineering networks nearby.
However, you can create a kind of “gentleman’s set”, without which it will not be very convenient to use the steam room:
- (from centralized water supply network, artesian well, from the nearest pond or well). Water is the only thing without which you can’t wash or take a steam bath. It’s good if the steam room is designed for 2 people. What if it's ten? Then you will have to carry water manually all day. After all, even for an ordinary family of 3 people you will need at least 100 liters of hot water alone. And how will you be able to wash yourself normally if you have to constantly wonder whether there is enough water for this?
- (either connected to a centralized power supply, or from a generator of any type used today - windmill, diesel or gasoline generator, etc.). Steaming by candlelight is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. Even kerosene lamps do not guarantee good lighting. Therefore, electricity is necessary at least for the operation of lighting fixtures.
If the water supply is from a well, a standpipe or a river, then the pump that pumps the water will also most likely be driven by electric current.
Often in the rest room there is a TV, a stereo system, and there is probably an electric kettle or an electric samovar. And if we take into account the popularity of heating elements for heating and mass use electric boilers to heat water, then supplying electricity to the bathhouse is a necessity.
However, this will require obtaining permission from the relevant authorities. Carry out the installation extremely carefully, following all the rules. Electric current and high humidity are a very dangerous combination.
- Sewerage. Of course, in principle, you can do without it or limit yourself to the simplest drain. However, with this approach, very quickly the area around the bathhouse building will become swampy, and the remains detergents, contained in the plum, are unlikely to have a beneficial effect on the ecology of the site. A toilet in the bathhouse will also be absolutely useful. Running in the middle of a bath procedure when necessary to a booth in the yard or to a residential building is not very pleasant. Therefore, this rather specific communication for the bath should also be recognized as necessary.
It is installed in all rooms from which waste water can flow - in the steam room, washing room, etc. Typical schemes Autonomous sewer systems with the required capacity can be found out from specialist plumbers. - Ventilation is an absolutely necessary system, and its installation requires competent preliminary calculations made by professionals. Ventilation is necessary both for the health of visitors to the bathhouse and to extend its service life: high humidity does not benefit the materials from which the bathhouse structure is built and which are used for its decoration.
A separate issue is the need for eyeliner. Today, gas boilers are often used for heating and heating water in bath buildings.. Their operation from cylinders, although theoretically possible, is only valid in theory. In practice, you will need a branch from the gas main, if possible. Well, if not, then the problem simply disappears by itself.
These are, perhaps, all the main communications in the bathhouse, which ensure its visit and full use without additional hassle.
Laying communications
If the owner of the bathhouse is “hands-on”, he can do a significant part of the work independently.
Perhaps it is better to invite professionals only for sewerage and electrical wiring.
All nuances should be thought out in advance and calculated required amount materials, including consumables, and select the necessary tools. To avoid unpleasant surprises later, already during the work on laying communications in the bathhouse, a scheme with all the important details must be drawn up in advance.
It is clear that it is better to deal with the eyeliner during the construction period and include a communications plan in the overall project. However, it is quite possible to modernize an already built bathhouse to the desired condition. It is clear that in this option, it is necessary to competently plan the entire work process in advance, and not do things “by eye.”
Of course, after weighing all the pros and cons, many will agree that communications in a modern bathhouse are certainly necessary. But which ones exactly will be determined by specific conditions and depend on the financial situation of the owner of the bathhouse and the availability of technical capabilities.
Long gone are the unsightly bathhouse buildings with the random flow of dirty water into “nowhere” or the nearest body of water. Today, sewerage in a bathhouse is not a luxury, but a necessity. The installation of a high-quality wastewater disposal system is prompted not only by ethical and aesthetic standards, but also by legal requirements aimed at ensuring the environmental safety of the environment.
The first step to improving the bathhouse is to assess the condition of the soil on the site, determine optimal depth laying pipes and deciding on the location of the septic tank. It’s easiest for those homeowners who were directly involved in the construction of the bathhouse or built (are building) it themselves. It is no secret to them the type of soil, its freezing point (FPG) and the level of occurrence groundwater(UGV).
Without knowledge of these indicators, it is impossible to build a trouble-free sewer system. For those who have purchased a plot with a bathhouse built on it, you will need to perform a set of simple observations and calculations.
To determine the type of soil, you can conduct a rapid study that does not require special knowledge and is based on visual inspection and tactile sensations. For this purpose, in the proposed pipe laying location, a hole is dug with a depth of 25-30 cm below the TPG. Information about the depth of soil freezing in a given area can be obtained from neighbors, from reference books, and on specialized Internet resources.
| Regions | Soil freezing depth, cm |
|---|---|
| Vorkuta, Surgut, Nizhnevartovsk, Salekhard | 240 |
| Omsk, Novosibirsk | 220 |
| Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk | 210 |
| Kurgan, Kostanay | 200 |
| Ekaterinburg, Chelyabinsk, Perm | 190 |
| Syktyvkar, Ufa, Aktyubinsk, Orenburg | 180 |
| Kirov, Izhevsk, Kazan, Ulyanovsk | 170 |
| Samara, Uralsk | 160 |
| Vologda, Kostroma, Penza, Saratov | 150 |
| Voronezh, Perm, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Novgorod, Ryazan, Tambov, Tula, Yaroslavl | 140 |
| Volgograd, Kursk, Smolensk | 120 |
| Pskov, Astrakhan | 110 |
| Belgorod, Kursk, Kaliningrad | 100 |
| Rostov | 90 |
| Krasnodar | 80 |
| Nalchik, Stavropol | 60 |
It is important to take a soil sample at the bottom of the pit, since sewer pipes will be laid at this level. After which the soil sample is carefully examined visually, rubbed between the palms, and rolled into a rope.
And they evaluate the results according to the table.
If it turns out that the soil is clay or loam, you should know that these categories of soil are classified as highly heaving. In this case, the pipes will need to be laid on a sand “cushion” by analogy with “floating” foundations. The sand will act as a shock absorber during seasonal soil movements and the integrity of the underground part of the sewer system will not be compromised.
After the safe depth for laying the pipeline has been determined, the issue of the location of the septic tank (filtration well) is resolved. The wastewater collection point must be separated from the water intake point by at least 15 m and located no closer than 7 m from the foundation of the bathhouse.
Choosing the type of sewer system
To improve the bathhouse, it is possible to use three types of individual sewerage:
- non-pressure;
- pressure;
- connected to a centralized city drainage system or to the existing sewer system of a private house.
Gravity system
The non-pressure method of drainage is otherwise called gravity. This is the simplest and least expensive type of sauna sewer. Its main advantage: energy independence. Installation of a free-flow system requires careful adherence to the slope of the pipes (1-1.5 cm per 1 linear meter) and is impossible with complex terrain of the site.
To transport wastewater, pipes of a larger diameter are required than when installing a pressure system. Straightness of the highway is highly desirable. If the pipeline diagram includes turning points, inspection wells are installed in these places. This rule is relevant for any type of sewer system.
Gravity sewerage – PP pipes 
Pressure system
The pressure sewer system provides for forced transportation Wastewater, which is provided by a pump or pumping station. The equipment can be installed both indoors and outdoors. A pressure sewerage system for a bathhouse is built if for some reason it is impossible to make a non-pressure one. Features of this type of sewer:
- pressure is more expensive than non-pressure;
- volatile;
- requires insulation of equipment in winter period.
Pressure sewerage – pumps 
Inset sewerage system
A less labor-intensive, but most troublesome way is to connect to a centralized sewer network. This method is not possible for all bathhouse owners. Therefore, it makes no sense to consider it in all details.
More often, it is used to connect the wastewater system to an existing septic tank on the site. However, in this case, you will have to choose the type of drainage system (pressure or gravity).
We design a sewerage scheme for a bathhouse
For greater design convenience, the unified sewer system is divided into two types: internal and external. The first includes communications indoors, the second - outside the building. Once you familiarize yourself with the basic principles of constructing a circuit, it is easy to develop it yourself.
Design stages
- It is necessary to draw a plan of the bathhouse, taking into account the thickness of the walls and partitions of the building. Graph paper is best for this purpose, but you can also use a regular piece of checkered paper.
- Indicate the dimensions, mark the installation locations of plumbing fixtures or drain points.
- Determine the location of the main pipe outlet.
- If the bathhouse has a toilet, take into account the need to install a drain pipe.
- Connect along the most convenient and short trajectory plumbing fixtures with the main pipe, aiming for a minimum number of turns in the line.
- Summarize the length of communications taking into account the release for outer wall baths
- Proceed to constructing a drawing of the external sewer system.
Rules for designing an external network:
- at the junction of the outer and internal sewerage provide an inspection hatch;
- according to SNiP, inspection wells are installed at the turning points of the main line, at the points of connection of a separate side branch of the pipeline, every 15-35 m of a straight main line with a pipe diameter of 100-150 mm;
- according to SNiP, the slope of external sewerage with a pipe diameter of 110-150 mm is 0.01 (1 cm per 1 meter);
- the first inspection well should be located no closer than 3 m and no further than 12 m from the bathhouse;
- if the site has a large slope and there is a toilet in the room, install a multi-stage sewerage system with drop-off wells.
Water seal options
A water seal is an important element of the sewer system, the purpose of which is to cut off unpleasant odors coming from the septic tank (drainage pit). Simply put, this is a water plug that remains in the pipe even if the bathhouse is not in use. An example of the simplest water seal is a U-shaped siphon. In a pipeline made of plastic pipes, a water plug is created using three shaped elements: bends.
Water seal - example
The difficulty is that when the sewer system is rarely used, the water in the water seal tends to evaporate. In this case, experts recommend installing a dry shutter. It is a simple plastic or metal structure, equipped with a spring and a valve (membrane) that blocks the exit from the pipe. When water enters the system, the damper is folded back under its pressure, and after the flow passes, it returns to its place.
Dry water seal - diagram
Craftsmen make unique homemade valve systems for bath drains. If you wish, you can use one of the following options.
| System Description | Illustration |
|---|---|
| A plastic funnel with a diameter slightly larger than the cross-section of the pipe and an outlet with a diameter of 3 cm is installed in a vertical position into the gap in the sewer pipe. A plastic ball (for ping-pong or other) is placed in the funnel of such a size that it blocks the narrow exit. When water gets into the pipe, the ball floats up. |
|
| For dry shutter device plastic sewer with a pipe diameter of 50 mm, you will need a 50/110 adapter, which needs to be modified a little: cut at an angle and attach a circle of thick rubber to it. After which the structure is installed at the outlet of the pipe in a septic tank or drainage pit. |
|
Prices for water seal
water seal for sewerage
Which pipes to choose
In fact, the choice of sewer pipes is not so large.
| Type of pipes | Description |
|---|---|
| It is irrational to use cast iron in our time: they are expensive, heavy and inconvenient to install. Ceramic ones are ideal in any respect, but also have a high cost. |
| Asbestos-cement ones are the cheapest of all possible, but they often disappoint with their defects. In addition, when installing a free-flow sewer system, products with smooth and even walls are required. And asbestos-cement ones have a rough inner surface, often riddled with depressions. |
| The optimal choice is plastic pipes that are resistant to all types of destructive influences. These products are excellent for installing interior and external sewerage, flexible to process, available with or without a socket. The warranty period for plastic pipes is 50 years. For long products, shaped elements (fittings) are offered, with the help of which the sewer system is installed. |
- PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
- PVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride);
- PP (polypropylene);
- HDPE (low density polyethylene);
- polyethylene corrugated.
Any of these products can be safely used in a sewer system. The diameter of the main line is selected based on the expected intensity of operation of the building and the number of drain points. For an average bathhouse with a steam room, washing area and toilet, when installing a gravity drainage system, pipes with a cross-section of 100-110 mm are required. If a toilet is not provided, a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient. Plumbing equipment is connected to the main line with pipes with a cross-section of 50 mm.
Prices for plastic pipes for sewerage
plastic pipe for sewer system
Installation of an internal sauna sewage system
It is necessary to start installing a sewer system at the construction stage of the bathhouse. But it is also possible to improve a building that has already been completed and has been in use for a long time. The scope of work and their sequence are different in both cases, so each option must be considered separately.
Installation of sewerage during the construction phase of a bathhouse
To carry out the work, you will need a previously drawn up plan (diagram) of the sewer system. In order to accurately find the connection points for plumbing elements (drains, showers, toilets, sinks, etc.), markings begin after the foundation has been erected. In places where the main line is laid, trenches of appropriate width and depth are dug.
Important: The bottom of each ditch is leveled taking into account the required slope towards the septic tank.
Then they begin laying the pipes. Experts advise starting the installation of a sewer system by installing the main pipe and large (nodal) elements, to which side branches of a smaller diameter are subsequently connected.
At the plumbing connection points, vertical pipes are installed. To prevent foreign objects from entering the network, each outlet is closed with a plug. Install the ventilation riser.
In regions with cold climates, pipes are insulated. For this purpose they use fibrous materials(mineral wool and its analogues), foam half-cylinders, foamed polyethylene. If desired, you can pre-wrap the pipes with noise-absorbing material, which will significantly reduce the volume of sounds emitted by the operating system.
Lay geotextiles.
Form a sand cushion.
Installation of indoor sewage system
If the bathhouse has been in use for more than a year, you can also install a drainage system in it dirty waters. To do this, you will need to draw up a diagram and open the floor in the right places. The pipes are installed at the foundation level, in one of the walls of which a hole is drilled to lead out the main line.
Drains are installed in the washing room and steam room. When performing work, the following rules are adhered to:
- the ladder must be located flush with the floor;
- gaps are closed with moisture-resistant grouts;
- The tiles are laid after installing the ladder.
Prices for drainage ladder
sewer drain
Installation of external sewerage for a bathhouse
Main element outdoor system drainage - septic tank. If the bathhouse does not have a toilet, there is no need to buy a factory-made product or independently equip a well with multi-level filtration of wastewater. It is enough to dig a drainage hole. But it is only relevant for soils with high level moisture permeability (rocky, sandy, sandy loam).
Video - DIY drain hole
Installation of sewerage with a drainage pit
- According to the diagram, they mark the area: find the location of the wastewater collection point, determine the route for laying the main line;
- dig a hole 1-1.5 m deep below the TPG;
- a 20-30 cm layer of sand and gravel is poured onto the bottom;
- to prevent soil walls from collapsing, you can install metal container or a column of car tires large diameter. A more solid structure is a frame built of brick.
They begin to lay the highway. Dig a trench to a depth below the TPG and form a slope towards the drainage hole. Lay the pipes and check that the slope complies with the requirements of SNiP.
At the turning points of the pipeline, inspection wells are installed. In order to prevent pipes from freezing in these places during cold times, it is necessary to provide insulation and cover the holes with double covers.
The place where the pipe enters the drainage pit is sealed using cement mortar or foam.
The insulation of the main line is carried out in any convenient way: by wrapping pipes with mineral wool or by laying polystyrene foam.
Insulation of the main line
In areas with clay soil, it is recommended to install a pit located under the floor of the bathhouse for waste disposal. The presence of this drainage receiver does not relieve the owner from the need to install an external main that transports water outside the premises. The pit serves as an auxiliary structure for the smooth operation of the sewer system.
They dig a hole under the floor square shape with an edge length of at least half a meter and a depth of 1-1.5 m. At a height of 10-15 cm from the floor level, a pipe is installed connecting the pit with the external sewerage system. Maintain a slope of 1 cm per 1 linear meter in the direction of water drainage. The bottom and walls of the pit are concreted.
Basic moments
The owner of a bathhouse must remember that each stage of sewerage installation requires careful compliance with the requirements for it. The failure-free operation of the system is ensured by a properly designed scheme and exact compliance of the pipe slope with SNiP standards. A comfortable stay in the bathhouse is guaranteed by the presence of a hydro- or dry seal.
You should not neglect the design of the ventilation system, as it forms optimal air exchange and promotes the weathering of moisture after bath procedures. This will help prevent the formation of mildew and mold. For regions with cold climates, it is extremely important to perform high-quality work on insulating the sewer system.
Video - Do-it-yourself sewage system in a bathhouse
Video - Draining water in a bathhouse with a water seal system
Video - Draining the bathhouse. Scheme
Electrical wiring in a bathhouse has a number of features. And this is mainly due to the high temperatures and humidity in this room, which negatively affect the condition of the wires, as well as the specifics of the flammable wood material, from which the walls of the steam room are made. Properly running the cable to the bathhouse and installing the wiring inside is vitally important.
Ideal option will be if it is possible to supply electricity to the bathhouse from the central distribution panel through a specially dedicated electricity supply line. There are two ways to lay a power cable and bring it directly to the bathhouse: “ground”, when the wire is laid underground, and “aerial”, when it is carried through the air. The methods must be provided for by the designs of the baths themselves.
"Earth" installation method
This is the most reliable method, but it is not always suitable. First, all agricultural work should be completed on the plot and the fact must be confirmed that the wire will not have to be routed through the neighbor’s territory. The so-called “armored cable” of the VBBShV brand with 4 copper conductors, the cross-section of which is 10 sq. mm, is laid underground. This cable is quite expensive, costs about 200 rubles/lm. But it is extremely reliable and durable thanks to the steel braid sandwiched between its plastic shells. Accordingly, moles, mice and other rodents will not be able to gnaw it. The cable is not afraid of earth shrinkage.
It is not recommended to use metal pipes for laying cables, since they are collectors of condensate, which reduces the service life of the wire. They can only be used in places where the cable runs along a pole or along a wall. In this case, a pipe is used in height not< 1,8 метров.
Laying cables underground: connecting to the bathhouse using the “earth” method
The sequence of actions when installing cables underground is as follows:
1. A trench is dug to a depth of not< 0,7 метров, на дно которой засыпают песок слоем примерно 10 см. Сверху провода засыпаются таким же слоем песка.
2. The cable is inserted into the building through a steel bushing. It is necessary to protect the wire during movement and complete shrinkage of the wooden wall. Electrical wiring to the bathhouse should be carried out especially carefully and carefully.
3. The cable is freed from its “armor” immediately before insertion into the shield. Only after this the cable cores are connected to the machine, providing grounding and lightning protection.
Important! When installing an underground cable, eliminate the possibility of dangerous tensions and mechanical damage in the event of soil displacement: create a reserve by placing the cable in a wave-like manner in the trench.
Laying cables using the “aerial” method
If you choose a more economical method, deciding to run the cable through the air, then consider the following points:
1. If the distance to the bathhouse is more than 25 meters, it is necessary to place a support between the gaps. Air laying of the wire is carried out using the so-called stretcher, or on porcelain insulators.
2. The cable must be located at a certain, regulated height. Above the roadway it cannot be placed below 6 m above ground level, above pedestrian paths— 3.5 m (not lower). The wire is attached to the bathhouse at a height of 2.75 m above the ground.
Connecting the power cable to the bathhouse using the “air” method
3. Usually SIP is used - self-supporting insulated cable. His guarantee period service is 25 years. SIP cables (SIP-4, SIP-3, SIP-2A) have a special weather-resistant polyethylene coating and special load-bearing elements that are resistant to overloads. Its cross section should not be< 16 кв. мм с пропускной способностью — до 63 ампер. Если подключение однофазное, то мощность будет равна 14 кВт, а если трехфазное – 42 кВт. Главный недостаток СИП состоит в их проблематичном вводе в автомат защиты из-за низкой пластичности, они трудно изгибаются.
4. SIP is introduced into the bathhouse (but not into the steam room itself, since aluminum wires cannot be placed there) through a metal sleeve. And completely different wires are introduced into the steam room - NYM, NG or VVG. The VVGng-LS cable with a cross-section of 3x1.5 (it is used to connect lighting), VVGng-LS with a cross-section of 3x2.5 (used to connect sockets) has proven itself well. VVG insulation does not support combustion, the level of smoke in the event of smoldering is very low. For the transition, sealed copper-aluminum connectors should be used; SIPs should be attached to anchor clamps, the so-called tensioners.
Installation of electrical wiring in a bathhouse: main stages
In the process of installing electrical wiring directly in the bathhouse, the following stages are distinguished:
1. Installation of the shield;
2. Wiring from the shield;
3. Connecting lamps;
4. Connecting sockets;
5. Connecting the electric furnace.
Electrical panel installation rules
The power supply system of the bathhouse will be powered from the distribution panel. It's important to choose optimal place to install it, observing the following requirements:
1. Access to the shield must be free;
2. The place should be well ventilated;
3. The shield must not be placed in a steam room or other fire-hazardous premises;
4. Good lighting of the room with a shield.
Electrical panel in the bathhouse (located in the relaxation room)
Usually the shield is installed in the rest room. It consists of a residual current device, an input circuit breaker, and output circuit breakers. Its upper part should be 1.4 m - 1.8 m above the floor, no less.
If the wiring is in wooden bath single-phase, the power cable must contain at least 3 cores. In accordance with the new GOST, the color of the phase conductor should be gray, but wires from old stocks with a white or brown phase conductor may be found. This core is placed on the upper terminal of the input circuit breaker. From the lower terminal, the phase conductor is partially moved using jumpers to the upper terminals of the outgoing machines, or routed through distribution busbars to the machines. Zero core (blue or of blue color) is placed on the zero block, the protective core (yellow-green) is placed on the protective block, or on the welded bolt of the shield. The phase conductors of the cables going to the load are connected to the lower contacts of the machines. The outgoing and input cables are laid very carefully in the shield, then they are taken out of the shield through a corrugated pipe. RCDs and circuit breakers must be installed taking into account the level of load on the cable.
We calculate the load on the cable, select the required cross-section
It is necessary to know the load in order to select the correct cable cross-section. There are special tables for selecting wire cross-sections, where its dependence on the expected power of the devices is calculated. Electrical appliances usually indicate their power consumption, so you should pay special attention to this.
1. If the bathhouse is intended to accommodate only lighting, the total power will be approximately 1-2 kW.
2. If you do not use an electric furnace, the total power will be around 5-6 kW.
It is advisable to take into account a 20% power reserve. For example, if the total power in the bathhouse is 5 kW, then it is better to calculate the wiring according to the value of 6 kW. With this power, a VVGng-LS cable with a cross-section of 3x4, that is, 4 sq. mm, is suitable. It is advisable to choose cables going out to lighting with a cross-section of 1.5 square meters. mm (3x1.5), for sockets - with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm (3x2.5).
Selecting an input machine
To do this, you need to know the total power. Then we calculate the current by dividing the total load by the voltage. For example, 6000 / 220 will be 27 A. But the machine should be selected with a margin - approximately 32 A. The selection of outgoing machines in groups is carried out based on the same principle. It is advisable to sign each machine on the dashboard, indicating which group of electrical appliances it is responsible for.
Also next to the panel there should be a wiring diagram for the bathhouse. Be sure to connect residual current devices that shut off power supplies if they come into contact with water. This will help save lives in case of an emergency. An RCD with a cut-off current will protect from fire. Make sure that the conductors in the terminal block clamps are well secured to avoid heating the area due to loose clamping.
Wiring the electrical cable from the panel
Initially, a wiring diagram for the bathhouse must be drawn. When drawing up a diagram and in the further practical implementation of the wiring plan, the following must be taken into account:
1. It is recommended to route the cables coming from the panel in one piece.
2. If the bathhouse has wooden walls, then the electrical wiring can be open, running over the wooden walls. It is prohibited to place wires in PVC pipes.
3. If the walls are brick, the electrical wiring for the bathhouse will be hidden, hidden behind a layer of plaster.
4. All cables should be installed in a strictly vertical and horizontal position. There should be no kinks or twisting, as indicated in the latest edition of the PUE instructions. It is allowed to lay wires from junction boxes only at right angles.
5. Try to place wires in the least visible places. They should not be laid opposite the doors, closer than 50 cm from metal pipes and batteries.
6. Switches, sockets, as well as installation boxes are prohibited from being used in rooms with high temperatures and humidity. Over time, moisture will accumulate in them, and a short circuit will inevitably follow. This applies, first of all, to the steam room. Therefore, they must be located in dressing rooms or rest rooms.
7. Wire cores should be connected by welding or soldering.
8. Use protective grounding.
10. Wires are prohibited from being placed in metal sheaths and pipes.
Installation and connection of lamps
The protection class of bath lamps should not be< IP-44 и мощностью не >75 W. Only glass lamps should be used, and the body should be metal, connected to the protective conductor of the wire. The plastic case may become deformed. Lamps should not be placed on the ceiling, but only on the walls, since the temperature is usually highest near the ceiling. In the steam room, low-voltage voltage (12V) is usually used. For this purpose, step-down transformers, which are located outside the steam room, are useful. It is also prohibited to install fluorescent lamps in the steam room.
Connecting sockets
Sockets can only be installed on the walls in the dressing room or rest room at a height of 90 cm. Their protection class should not be< IP-44. Желательно использовать розетки с крышками.
Electric furnace connection standards
To connect an electric furnace, you will need wires that can withstand high temperatures (up to about 170 degrees) and high power consumption, which is 4 kW on average). For these purposes, wiring in a cable channel with single wires of the PRKA, PMTK, PRKS or RKGM brands is suitable. A copper cable with a cross-section of 3*2.5 mm can withstand approximately 5 kW of load. It is acceptable to stretch wires of the PMTC type to the installation box, which is located outside the area high temperature and humidity, and run a regular cable (VVG 3x2.5) from the box to the panel.
Video: electrics in the bathhouse and sauna
During installation electrical wires remember, that correct wiring in the bathhouse is the key to your comfortable and safe stay in this room. Before installation, carefully study the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules) in the latest edition - the electrician’s desktop “Bible”. Try to approach the issue as responsibly as possible by installing the wiring yourself, or contact a specialist.
Anyone who has ever installed a bathhouse in their home knows that its system requires a good sewage system. And those who are faced with the construction of a bathhouse for the first time need to know how to properly install and equip a sewer system for a bathhouse so that it functions without failures.
To do this, it is very important to know how to properly make a drainage drain, what the soil on the site should be like so that it absorbs water well, in which cases you can install an additional bathroom for a bathhouse, where the drainage hole should be located, how many people the bathhouse can serve in one sitting, and others moments.
When building a bathhouse and arranging its sewage system, you need to know certain stages of the work, as well as some rules and features of such construction.
To arrange a water supply or a water supply system that forms one network with sewerage in communications, it is most convenient to use SNiP 2.04.01-85 “Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings.”
When guiding such building codes and the rules, it will not be difficult to carry out work on the installation and installation of sewerage in a bathhouse.
In order to choose what type of sewer system to build for a bathhouse, you need to take into account some nuances that will allow you to equip the sewer system in the best possible way:
- the type of soil composition where the bathhouse is supposed to be built;
- what is the depth of soil freezing in the area where the bathhouse will be located;
- what should be the parameters and frequency of use of the bath;
- whether there is a city or autonomous sewerage main on the site;
- how probable are the possibilities of connecting the bath sewerage system to city sewer networks;
- what should be the design of the bathhouse?
Regarding the composition of the soil, it must be remembered that highly absorbent soil compositions most desirable for arranging a sewer system for a bathhouse.
These compositions can be loose soils:
- sandy;
- crushed stone;
- silty sands or sands of varying sizes with soil;
- coarse gravel, boulder or pebble.
If in the area where it is planned to build a bathhouse, there are just such soils, then to arrange a bathhouse in such an area it is necessary to build a drainage well, which will cope perfectly with the water coming from the bathhouse and, at the same time, will be perfectly absorbed into the soil.
Important! However, if the soil in the area where the bathhouse is to be built has a clay composition, then a drainage well is not suitable.
In the case of poorly absorbed soils such as clay, sandy loam and loam, it is necessary to make a pit under the sauna drain where the used water will drain.
Indicators of average soil freezing depth for middle zone Russia are presented in a classic table, which is successfully used by most designers, engineers and construction companies:
Photo: indicators of average soil freezing depth for central Russia
All calculation schemes for designing a sewage system for a bathhouse should always be drawn up and calculated based on the depth of soil freezing in a particular area where it is planned to use the site for building a bathhouse.
Important! This must be done in order to avoid damage to the system due to freezing of drain pipes, sedimentation tanks or sauna drainage.
Many experts, instead of a table, prefer to use a map, which also indicates the depth (mm) of soil freezing in a particular territory of Russia.
If you plan to build a large bathhouse, where it should be serviced a large number of people immediately, then it is necessary to provide it with a sewerage system that could normally handle volley discharges of large volumes.
Drainage wells, pits or septic tanks must be of impressive size, capable of providing high efficiency for wastewater treatment or its effective settling and removal outside the site. Therefore, everything here also needs to be carefully calculated.
When building a small and medium-sized bathhouse, you should also not ignore the following calculations:
- how many people is the bathhouse designed for?
- what expected volumes of wastewater will flow from the bathhouse into the sewer system;
- what size should the entire building be;
- what size should a drainage well or septic tank be?
In addition, a very important point when planning the construction of a bathhouse with an individual sewerage system will be to take into account the type of the bathhouse sewerage system itself:
- non-pressure;
- pressure;
- part of the central city sewer system.
A non-pressure, or gravity, sewerage system for a bathhouse is a pipeline system through which the water used in the bathhouse flows by gravity into containers, septic tanks, reservoirs, or where the water settles or undergoes biological treatment, and then, also purified by gravity, flows into the ground or reservoirs.
It makes sense to equip this type of sewer system when the terrain and area of the site allows for natural slopes when laying pipes (0.20 mm per 1 linear meter of pipeline towards the sewer receiving tank), and also, groundwater lies below the level of any drainage sewer device.
Installation of a sewer system of this type is always economical and practical because during its installation the least amount of money is spent on purchasing sewer systems, septic tanks or drainage wells, and there is also a minimal use of labor.
Photo: pressure sewer system for a bathhouse A pressure sewer system for a bathhouse is already different in that it is not as energy independent as a non-pressure one.
After all, if in the first case water enters the sewer system by gravity, then when installing a pressure sewer system, sewage pumping units must be installed.
The pumps that are equipped with the pressure sewer system in the bathhouse must pump out wastewater and supply it not only to the pipeline, but also to a pit or septic tank, where the wastewater will undergo treatment, purification and forced (again, using a pump) release of purified wastewater into soil or storage containers.
Important! It is advisable to install such systems in cases where the groundwater level is high enough, the area of the garden plot is too small, or the bathhouse is located in the basement of a private residential building.
Such sewer systems are least likely to become clogged by hair rolls or accidental ingress of soap into the pipeline because, under the pressure created by the pump, these inclusions, along with wastewater, are very quickly fed into a septic tank, sewer tank for cleaning or storage well.
Photo: sewer tank for cleaning or storage well Bath sewerage, which can be connected to the central city sewer system, is the most profitable option for bathhouse owners.
After all, you won’t have to deal with wastewater treatment yourself because all of it will end up in the central sewer lines, therefore the collectors, and then from there to the city treatment plants.
The only difficulty that may arise here is the installation and insertion of sewer pipes going from the bathhouse to the central system.
Difficulties may also arise when preparing documents to coordinate work on insertion and connection with government agencies, responsible for the city's sewerage networks.
Other equally important points when organizing and arranging a sewer system for a bathhouse can be its construction design and the presence of an additional bathroom.
By and large, the classic versions of a bathhouse in their design have the following premises:
- bathroom is a must;
- shower - installed so that you can wash yourself;
- dressing room - it is equipped with either benches and a table for snacks, or a font with cold water;
- steam room - the actual room where you steam.
Photo: steam room All these premises must be equipped with a drain because they, to one degree or another, discharge wastewater into the sewer.
The presence of additional rooms where used water is also supposed to be drained should also be taken into account. What is it for?
Suppose you have installed a toilet in your bathhouse, then according to the rules of the SES, you are required to use a septic tank with activated sludge as part of your sewer system, which processes wastewater and disinfects it.
And if your bathhouse is equipped with a bathroom with only a washbasin, but no toilet, then there is no need to install a septic tank with activated sludge.
After all, only soapy water will flow out of such a bathhouse, then it is enough to build a sewer with a drainage well or pit.
Scheme
Before you understand what the sewerage system in a bathhouse should be, you need to decide on the type of sewerage system both indoors and outdoors.
If the soil in your area allows the installation of a drainage well, then the design of such a sewerage system will differ significantly from the design of an external sewerage system for rocky, clay or loamy soils.
Photo: sewerage diagram in the bathhouse This diagram is the simplest drainage sewer system in a bathhouse, and it is also gravity-fed, that is, free-flowing. Very clearly visible here required slopes.
Which must be done when laying a pipeline, the presence of a ventilation duct and an exit to the outside, the required depth for a particular section of the pipeline with a difference, and, finally.
A drainage well with a bottom made of gravel, which is a natural filter for sewage.
In the case of rocky, clayey or loamy soils, the absorption of which is very low, a special pit is installed in the sauna sewerage system.
This pit is a storage tank made of any waterproof material, from which a drainage pipe extends, carrying waste further away from the site.
The drainage of wastewater can be to fields, ravines, reservoirs or rivers. Drains such as bath drains are not considered too dirty, provided, of course, that there is no toilet in the bath premises.
When arranging the pit, it is very important to properly install a water seal, which should limit the penetration of unpleasant odors into the bathhouse.
Also, for the installation of such a sewer system, it will be most effective to use plastic pipes made of durable polymer material, such as polypropylene or low-density polyethylene.
Important! Sewage pipes for external sewerage are always used with a diameter of 100 mm. The pit is made directly under the floor of the bathhouse, and therefore, first you need to make it right away, and then lay the boards with gaps on wooden joists. The logs are laid on bricks.
A hole is dug in the center of the bathhouse with gentle slopes leading to it. The entire surface is waterproofed with a concrete screed. A drainage pipe should extend from the pit, which will carry the wastewater far beyond the site.
The plate, which is located above the pipe, will form a kind of water seal, so that unpleasant odors will not penetrate into the bathhouse.
Photo: a kind of water seal The drain pipe of the pit should be located at a height of 10-12 cm from the bottom of the pit. And between the plate and the surface of the pipe there should be a gap of about 5 or 6 cm. The pit can be waterproofed not necessarily with concrete, but you can also use plastic containers for this.
DIY device
What you shouldn’t rush into when building a sewer system for a bathhouse with your own hands is the construction of the room itself. This is especially true for floors. Sewerage for a bathhouse has its own specifics, and therefore there is no need to rush into laying the floors for its premises.
Almost any diagram of internal sewerage in bathhouses shows that communications and devices are located under the floor, and it doesn’t even matter what type of floor is planned to be laid: with gaps between wooden planks or without them.
Moreover, it is very important to think about ventilation system, which could cover all rooms of the bathhouse in its service. If this is not done, then it will be very uncomfortable to use such a device as a bathhouse.
Internal sewerage
If you decide to make a sewer system for a bathhouse according to the old Russian custom, then you will need to dig a hole in the center of the room, which will combine a washing room and a steam room with partitions that separate one room from the other.
If you make the washing room and steam room separate rooms, then you will need to make holes for each of these rooms.
In this case, two drain pipes will come out of the bathhouse, or two connected into one large pipe, which will be directly laid underground from the outside.
In the same way, you can arrange a sewer system for rooms where there is a swimming pool, toilet or washbasin.
According to the old custom, a sewer system for a bathhouse is made without a pipeline. The pit that is made in the center of the room is called a pit.
Such a pit can still be made close to the bathhouse, and drain pipes coming from bath rooms. If the pit is under the floor of the bathhouse, then the floors are made to leak, with gaps between the boards.
Through these cracks in the floor, water flows into the pit, and from it through a drain pipe, it is discharged outside the site.
These designs are very convenient because they do not require special maintenance or care. The most important thing here is to properly make the pit itself and drainage.
Important! If it is necessary to make the floors continuous without gaps, then the pit is made without concrete screed on floors with slopes. It is enough to make a sealed hole to which a truncated piece of drain pipe will be connected.
It looks like this: The floors are laid at a slope towards the center of the room, where there is a hole. Water flows into this hole and enters a special gutter, which discharges the water into a pit, and from there through a drain pipe outside the bathhouse.
Even a flat, continuous floor without a slope can be equipped with such gutters. But then you will need to leave gaps around the perimeter of the room, between the wall and the floor.
These gaps are equipped with gutters like a truncated plastic sewer pipe that is located under the floor and fits tightly to the foundation.
The gutters are installed at a slope towards the pit, where the a drain pipe. Through these gutters, water flows into a pit, and from there it is discharged outside the bathhouse.
Photo: water flows through these gutters into the pit If you are satisfied with the option of a floor with cracks, then you dig a hole that will be under the floor of the bathhouse, then make a cement or concrete screed.
Moreover, the screed needs to be done not only of one hole, but also of the entire space under the floor. This surface under the floor must be concreted with a slope on all sides towards the pit.
There are no gutters here anymore, and therefore the corners between the wall and the future floor can be reliably sealed with some rolled waterproof material, such as roofing felt, and on the side of the surface that will be under the floor of the bathhouse, you can safely fill it with a concrete screed.
Important! Don’t forget to also attach a drain pipe, which is best placed at a height from the bottom of the pit somewhere from 10 to 12 cm.
Above the pipe, attach a special plate to the fastening fittings (anchors, studs, nails), which will block unpleasant odors, thus preventing the penetration of unpleasant odors of standing water into the room.
Photo: a plate that will block unpleasant odors There is one more convenient option installation of sewerage in a bathhouse, this is a tie-in into the pipeline of the central city sewerage system, which is available in the house.
Here you will need the same amount of effort as it was required to arrange a sewer system when building a private house.
Namely: the necessary plastic pipes, sealant, welding machine, if you are welding a pipeline, or couplings, flanges, fittings and other connecting elements for pipes.
In this case, in all rooms of the bathhouse where used water is discharged through any plumbing or structures such as a swimming pool, etc., you lay pipes under the floor, to which you connect either the plumbing, or the pool drain, or a gutter from the floor in a steam room or washing room.
Important! All these pipes do not need to be led to a septic tank or drainage well, because you have an inlet pipe for this purpose, through which all drains will flow into the central sewer system.
Photo: Underfloor piping system If you do not have the opportunity to connect to the central city sewer or install a pit, then you can also use a pipeline system under the floor, but only with drainage to a drainage well.
In the case of a drainage well, in principle, you can use a pit, which will be located under the floor with gaps, and the wastewater will simply be discharged not into fields, reservoirs, rivers or ravines, but directly into a drainage well with a filtration bottom made of expanded clay.
Whatever sewage system you choose inside the bathhouse: with or without a pipeline, but with a pit, in any case you will have to take care of where the wastewater from the bathhouse should be discharged.
Important! You should also study all the recommendations and advice of experts, which cover not only the standard procedures for installing an internal sewerage system in a bathhouse, but also the features and specific points that apply exclusively to the arrangement of sewers in bathhouses.
- in the process of connecting plumbing or drain points to the pipes in the bathhouse, you need to install a water seal at each such point so that unpleasant odors do not penetrate into the premises. For plumbing, water seals are created using siphons, for a pit using a special plate, for a pipeline going to a drainage well, it is allowed to use a pipe slope that will be equal to or greater than the diameter of the pipe itself, and for a pool a siphon will also be sufficient;
- when laying any pipeline in a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account high temperatures, and therefore use building materials made of durable and heat-resistant plastic or any other material;
- pipe slopes must be no less than 2-3 mm and no more than 15 mm per 1 linear meter of pipe;
- if there are places where several pipes are connected, then inspection wells should be installed there to make it easier to clear the sewer from blockages;
- All valves, faucets or stopcocks must be made of non-flammable and non-melting materials. It is also advisable to use door handles, towel racks, shelves for detergents and personal care products made from materials with low thermal conductivity;
- all drain holes in the floor of the bathhouse rooms must be protected with nets that will prevent leaves from brooms, hair and other debris from entering the sewer system that could clog the pipeline;
- It is advisable to place all valves and taps as low as possible, close to the floor because the temperature there will not be so high;
- the pipeline must not be laid close to heating devices, fireplaces or sauna stoves;
- the pit must be located at certain distances from various objects.
The pit must have certain parameters:
- location from the foundation of the building by 50 cm;
- pit depth is about 70 cm;
- cross section – 50 x 50 cm;
- covering with a layer of concrete – 10 cm;
- location from the drainage well is at least 2.5 m.
External sewerage
Central city sewer lines do not relate to the arrangement of sewerage for a bathhouse with your own hands, and therefore there is no need to consider them.
The only thing that is important to study is the construction of an autonomous external sewage system for a bathhouse.
If the groundwater in your area is low enough and will not interfere with construction work and operation of sewer systems or installations, then you can safely plan to build a drainage well.
To install a drain well, you need to take several steps:
- dig a pit no closer to the bathhouse than 3-4 m. Determine the size of the pit yourself, based on the container without a bottom that you have (reinforced concrete rings, plastic containers or masonry brick walls). The depth of the pit should be below freezing of the soil, if, for example, it is 70 cm, then the pit should be dug 1.5 m deeper;
- trenches for the drain pipe are also dug, which should be dug to a depth below the freezing depth of the soil in your area. For example, if the soil freezing depth is 70 cm, then trenches should be dug 50 cm lower;
Photo: trench for drain pipe - the bottom of a pit lined with bricks or a container without a bottom must be lined with a layer of crushed stone or any other filter material. The layer must be no less than 20 cm high and no more than 50 cm high;
- all pipes that are laid in trenches must be laid on a bed of sand, 10-15 cm high, and then sprinkled with a crushed stone or sand layer, which together with the laid pipe gives 40 cm in width and 40 cm in height;
Photo: pipes are laid on a sand bed - if you are installing some kind of container without a bottom, then its outer walls should also be sprinkled with a dry mixture of sand and cement, lightly tamping;
- a ventilation pipe must be attached to the well, which must be on the surface of the earth at a height of no less than 60 cm;
- Before filling the soil, the drainage or drainage well must be covered with a lid or ceiling with sewer hatch. The cover or sewer hatches are not covered with earth because this is a technical part of the drainage well, which must be opened regularly to provide free access to clear the well from accumulated sediment.
External sewerage for a bathhouse also includes the installation of a septic tank on the site, to which sewer pipes coming from the bathhouse are connected. A septic tank is necessary if the bathhouse has bathrooms.
After all, wastewater containing feces is already considered dirtier than just soapy water from washing or taking a shower.
The principle of operation of a septic tank is such that it effectively cleans wastewater with various inclusions, and therefore, if there is a toilet in the bathhouse, it is most advisable to install a septic tank.
It can be like a factory one, already made in the form finished system, which includes a sufficient number of chambers and all kinds of devices for wastewater treatment. You can also install a septic tank on the sanitary area yourself.
Photo: septic tank for a bathhouse For this, you can use any containers - from reinforced concrete structures to plastic containers or used car tires.
If the structure is light in weight, then it should be “anchored”, that is, attached with special cables to concrete platform at the bottom of the pit. But if the structure is heavy enough, then this is not necessary.
For lightweight structures, the outer walls of sewer tanks or septic tank systems are sprinkled with the obligatory filling of water in the container.
The filled water should exceed the sprinkling level by 1/3. If desired and if there is such an opportunity, an additional filtration well can be installed to the septic tank, which will serve as wastewater tertiary treatment.
Important! This is especially interesting for those who plan to use purified water for irrigation of gardens or fields, or for technical needs.
Video: laying pipes and sewers
Ventilation in the bath
In order to properly arrange the ventilation system in the bathhouse, in order to avoid tragic incidents, you should familiarize yourself with the circulation diagram of hot steam and temperature in the bathhouse.
For those who have not thought about temperature fluctuations in a bathhouse during a steam room, or have forgotten from school physics lessons, let us remind you that the highest temperatures are at the top, and the lowest are at the bottom.
Thus, the ventilation hole with an exit pipe should be made at the top of the steam room. And in order for fresh air to enter the room, it is necessary to make a hole at the bottom, almost near the floor.
Those openings that are located under the ceiling are called exhaust (pulling excess steam out), and those near the floor are called supply (inflow of fresh air).
Photo: exhaust holes With proper ventilation, you will not only save yourself from exposure to hot steam, but also protect yourself from carbon monoxide.
The exhaust openings can be equipped with special automatic hatches, which will operate when the air temperature in the steam room reaches a certain point.
In the simplest system, the ventilation holes in the bathhouse are closed with wooden plugs to heat the air in the steam room, and then the holes are opened when it is necessary to provide the premises with clean and hot air in the bathhouse.
How to choose sewer equipment
Sewage equipment for a bathhouse includes the following components:
- pipes;
- plumbing;
- connecting elements and materials;
- container for a drainage or storage well;
- septic tanks.
Pipes should be used that are made of heat-resistant materials. It can be either metal or plastic products pipes
The most commonly used plastic pipes today are made from polymer materials: polypropylene (PP) or low-density polyethylene (HDPE).
Such pipes can withstand temperatures up to +95% if they are high-quality materials. With low quality, plastic pipes can withstand only +75% degrees.
If you are making internal sewerage for a bathhouse from a pipeline, then take high-quality PP or HDPE pipes.
Important! And if you just need a pipe to carry hot wastewater outside the bathhouse, then you can use plastic pipes that can withstand temperatures up to 50-75% degrees - this is enough to drain the slightly cooled wastewater from the bathhouse outside.
Bathroom plumbing should also only be selected that can withstand hot air.
It is clear that in the steam room there is no plumbing as such, but one should not forget that if the steam room is combined with a washing room and is separated from it only by a small partition, then care should be taken to purchase a rotary shower that is mounted into the wall.
A rotary shower is installed in the wall, covered with a panel and only supplies jets of water, and therefore using such a shower in a bathhouse is very convenient and even safe because the risks of getting burned on the metal surface of the shower are minimized.
Photo: rotary shower For rooms in the bathhouse that are isolated from the steam room, you can use regular plumbing fixtures. So for the washing room, which is separated from the steam room, where there is no hot air, you can install a very convenient column shower, which is ideal for the conditions in the bathhouse.
Such a shower is perfectly connected to internal sewerage pipes of a smaller diameter, then the pipes are connected through an adapter to such an important section of the sewerage system in the bathhouse as, thanks to which wastewater from the shower (as well as from other plumbing fixtures and equipment) is transported and supplied to sewerage treatment plants structures.
Photo: column shower Connecting elements and materials are all kinds of adapters, fittings, turn signals, plumbing silicone and other materials with which plumbing fixtures are connected to the sewer pipeline in the bathhouse.
Important! Sealant or plumbing silicone must be present, because they provide enhanced sealing of connections between plumbing fixtures and pipes or pipes between themselves.
The entire system must be sealed and not leak, otherwise you will constantly have all sorts of discomforts in the bathhouse.
Sewer sanitary equipment for a bathhouse should also include septic tanks, which are used, as a rule, for autonomous (individual) sewer systems.
The principle of operation of the septic tank is such that, receiving wastewater in the first chamber, it purifies it using biological mass (anaerobic or aerobic bacteria, depending on the septic tank model) in activated sludge, where the wastewater is processed and converted into sludge and water.
The water in the first chamber thus settles, accumulates, reaches a certain point and enters the second chamber, where next stage wastewater treatment.
Depending on the model of the septic structure and the devices it contains, the second stage of wastewater purification can occur under the influence of aerators that supply air flows into the water.
If there are no such devices, then the wastewater also settles and flows into the next chamber, either a filtration well or fields. At the last stages, the water is purified by almost 95-98%, which is considered a high degree of purification.
Thus, all the water used in the bathhouse, plus, if there is a toilet, is cleaned and can be safely taken out to the fields, used to irrigate lawns, gardens and vegetable gardens, and even used for economic and technical needs.
Features of flooring
The installation of a floor in a bathhouse has several options for laying it:
- leaking leaky floor;
- capital self-leveling floor;
- continuous sloping floor lining with gutters.
The arrangement of the sewage system in the bathhouse directly depends on the type of laying of boards on the floor or self-leveling concrete screed.
Leaky and non-leaky floors
Leaky floors include leaky floor structures that allow used water during bathing procedures to freely flow into a pit equipped under the floor.
The design of such floors is such that the boards, which are laid on wooden logs, which, in turn, stand stably on small brick racks, are laid with a small gap between each other - about 5 mm.
Photo: flowing fields Leak-proof floors include both a self-leveling concrete floor and a wooden floor with boards tightly adjacent to each other.
The advantages of concreting floors are their strength and aesthetics in terms of decorating materials, such as tiles, for example.
All leak-proof floors are equipped with a slope towards the drain hole, where the drain pipe is located. Such floors are made first, after the walls and roof.
Photo: drain hole where the drain pipe is located For lovers of everything natural and natural, a solid bath floor with tightly fitting boards is suitable. Here it is also important to take into account the slope towards the hole where the used water should flow.
Such floors can also be equipped with gutters along the walls, instead of a drain hole in the middle of the washroom or steam room.
Photo: solid bath floor with tight-fitting boards If the floor is leak-proof, then a protective grill must be installed for the drain hole, which does not allow the sewer system to become clogged with leaves. bath brooms or skeins of hair.
How to arrange a manhole for communications
Inspection wells in sections of sewer systems for bathhouses are installed in cases where the length of the external sewer system is more than 10 meters.
Also, reasons for equipping sewerage with inspection wells include pipeline branching. It is in the areas where pipes are connected, where they turn and where there are differences that it is necessary to install inspection wells.
Important! Wells of this type are needed to regularly check pipes for blockages and, if necessary, to carry out timely cleaning of sewer pipes.
There are accepted standards and distances that are permissible between inspection wells on an extensive sewer route. These norms of permissible distances depend on the diameter of the pipes that are used for laying external sewers.
For a bathhouse, as a rule, sewer pipes with a diameter of no more than 155 mm are used, and therefore the permissible installation distances for inspection wells should be at least 35 m.
Such wells can be either concrete rings through which sewer pipes pass, or plastic wells-turners or adapters, which are built into the pipes as their addition.
Concrete structures perfectly protect the most vulnerable sections of the pipeline, and also provide full access for the repairman to go down into the well and check the sewer pipes for blockages.
Important! Such wells must be equipped with a ceiling and a cover or manhole. This must be done to prevent precipitation or debris from entering the well.
Photo: installation of a manhole When installing a reinforced concrete inspection well, it is necessary to use a grinder to make holes where the pipes will pass through the reinforced concrete ring. Then lower the ring into the trench widened for the well.
Therefore, pass the pipes through the well so that the pipe connections are inside the ring. Tightly seal pipe joints and wall surfaces concrete ring, and then sprinkle the outer walls of the reinforced concrete well with a dry mixture of sand and cement (1:1).
The linear type of inspection well is installed where the section of the external sewer pipeline is straight, and the rotary type is installed at the corners and turns of the sewer line.
There are also plastic inspection wells, which are much easier to install, and they last much longer than reinforced concrete products, which are regularly sprinkled.
Photo: plastic inspection well It is easier to install such wells because they are lightweight and even one person can handle them during installation. In addition, most models of such wells are made with already built-in sealed pipes for connecting pipes of various diameters to the well.
And this, you see, already eliminates an impressive piece of work. Installing such a well is a pleasure. During installation, it is also necessary to sprinkle the outer walls of such a well with a dry mixture of sand and cement for a more durable installation.
For any scheme and project for equipping a bathhouse with a sewer system, it is necessary to use clearly planned methods and technologies.
Just as before, classical technologies from those times that our ancestors used when arranging Russian baths on their property are suitable. Modern technologies can also be applied no less than old ones.
Important! The most an important condition when installing and laying sewerage for a bathhouse, is correct execution all requirements, recommendations for drainage, drainage, ventilation, as well as wastewater treatment.
If all precautions and rules are followed, then your sauna sewer system will always work at the highest level.
Video: do-it-yourself sewer
It is difficult to imagine a country house without a bathhouse or sauna. Relax, take a steam bath, relieve fatigue, or use the bathhouse as a temporary home during the construction of the main house - there are many options for use. It is not surprising that interest in the topic among FORUMHOUSE users is growing year after year.
Our portal has already described in detail where to place it on the site, how to decorate the steam room. Let's continue the topic we started. From our material you will learn:
- What engineering communications are needed.
- How to install a simple and budget water supply system.
- What nuances need to be taken into account when installing electrical equipment?
Nuances of installation and selection engineering communications in the bath
Without properly constructed communications - water supply (option - we carry water from a well, we do not consider), electricity, ventilation, sewerage and drainage, normal use of the bathhouse is impossible. At the same time, due to the peculiarities of the operating mode of a bathhouse or sauna, and this means increased humidity and temperature, utility networks are subject to special requirements for safety of use and durability.
In addition, at the design stage it is necessary to decide whether the bathhouse will be a free-standing structure, or whether we will limit ourselves to building a simple sauna inside the house.
Practice shows that most often a bathhouse is built in the form of a separate washing and bath complex. There are options for relatively simple baths/saunas, as well as complex and expensive structures (with a SPA area and a swimming pool) used for relaxation and entertainment events.
Regardless of the use of the bathhouse, we remember the main rule: first, a project is made (based on the preferences of the owner and the expected operating mode of the “wet” room).
Now we count required volume water consumption, and also determine the required number of water points. This is a shower or shower stall, a sink with a mixer, a connection point washing machine, toilet supply, storage tank, etc.
If an electric heater is supposed to be the heat source, we calculate whether the electrical network can withstand the additional load. Do not forget about the water heater for preparing hot water, and this is also an additional load on the electrical network.
We think in advance about how to supply electricity to the bathhouse (underground or air way) and water. Is the well flow sufficient, how to dispose of wastewater, will the septic tank cope with the massive discharge of water, or is it necessary to design the separation of wastewater, etc.
Only after collecting all the necessary data and estimating the approximate number of people who will use the bathhouse, you can proceed to the design of utility networks and the actual construction of the bathhouse.
This approach - careful planning - will allow you to avoid costly alterations in the future, when the bathhouse/sauna has already been built. For example, it turns out that the electrical wiring and machines do not pull the connected electrical equipment, there are not enough points for, and the pump power is not enough to quickly fill a font or pool with water.
There are many features; you can write a separate article for each of them. Those wishing to find answers to the above questions are recommended to read the articles: and observe all boundaries from treatment plant to other objects on the site, and .
Go ahead. Let's take, for example, an ordinary “budget” bathhouse - a wooden structure made of timber or logs. It is necessary to install a water supply system and conduct electrical wiring. You need to understand: what basic moments pay attention to arrange high-quality engineering communications.
Installation of water supply in a bathhouse
The first thing you should think about when designing a water supply system in a bathhouse is its operating mode - year-round or seasonal. If you do not plan to use the bathhouse in winter, or it is intended to be started only on weekends, it is necessary to ensure that water is drained from the pipes and from the plumbing fixtures (for example, the toilet). If this is not done, then at subzero temperatures the water will freeze and may burst the pipes.
Our users solve this problem in different ways.
Kolek2575 Member FORUMHOUSE
I plan to install a stove with a water heat exchanger on a pipe in the bathhouse. Frosts here reach -30°C. I haven't decided what to do with the water yet. If you leave it, it will tear it apart. Drain every time?
According to experienced participants, there can be two options: either drain the water, or prevent the bathhouse from freezing. For example, on the advice Dokainfo, We use a self-regulating heating cable.
After completing the bath procedures, the water is drained from the heating tank and shower cabin. To ensure that water flows freely into the well, we install a check valve on the submersible pump.
When installing such a system, we provide the necessary slopes of the pipes so that the water flows freely by gravity.
But the heating cable presents additional installation difficulties. Power outages are also possible. If a pumping station is used to create pressure in the water supply system, then the hydraulic accumulator becomes the bottleneck. If you visit the bathhouse infrequently in winter, you will also have to drain the water from it or completely dismantle the station and store it in a warm room.
Interesting are the methods of water supply for baths that users of our portal use in the winter.
Sanap User FORUMHOUSE
In the summer, to provide the bathhouse with water, I use a pumping station + mounted electric water heater. As soon as the temperature drops below zero, I drain all the water from the water supply, and in winter I use imported water to operate the bathhouse. For 2-3 people, 50-70 liters are enough to wash. For contrasting procedures, we wipe ourselves with snow.
Also interesting is the user's experience with the nickname 8k84r. The water supply for the bathhouse is done this way - water is pumped from the well by a submersible pump. Above the steam room, in a heated room, a hydraulic accumulator is mounted, as well as an electric storage boiler for heating water in the summer. Plus open system with a tank, with recharge from a hydraulic accumulator.
Upon departure, all taps are opened and the water is drained into the sewer. Turn off the pump and air the pump line. Everything takes about 5 minutes. Having arrived, we flood the bathhouse, close the taps and turn on the power to the pump.
For clarity, we offer a diagram of the bath water supply system from Putnik2008.
Note: used for heating water copper pipe, bent into a spiral, which was laid on the stones of an electric heater.
As storage tank A 30 liter canister is used.
Putnik2008 User FORUMHOUSE
Also, for a simple bathhouse plumbing scheme, you can mount a 200-liter container in the “attic,” which will provide sufficient water pressure when you open the tap, or to wash in the shower. After completing the bath procedures, we leave the tap open for 15 minutes while the water flows by gravity back into the well, but such a Spartan system, of course, is not suitable for everyone.
The bottleneck of the gravity system, with irregular use of the bathhouse in winter, may be the depth of freezing, which depends on the region. To prevent the pipeline from freezing, it is laid below the freezing depth, a heating cable is used, or it is insulated.
How to make a simple and effective winter water supply that will not freeze when sub-zero temperatures and which does not require a heating cable, is described in the article
Features of installing electrical wiring in a bathhouse
A complete water supply system for a bathhouse is impossible without a reliable power supply to the pump, which provides required pressure water in the tap. In addition: lighting, electrical devices, used in the bathhouse, water heaters, etc., must also be connected to the electrical network.
Moreover, unlike an ordinary home, a bathhouse/sauna is a place with high humidity and temperatures, which means that special requirements are imposed on the electrical network to guarantee its safe operation.
T0lyanych User FORUMHOUSE
A bathhouse is a wet room, therefore the wiring in the bathhouse is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the PUE for saunas, bathrooms and showers.
Hence: in the steam room and in the washing room there should be no electrical appliances such as a washing machine, sockets, distribution boxes and switches. This equipment is located in the recreation room, and a separate wire goes to each light bulb (in a splash-proof housing) in the steam room and wash room. If an electric heater is used for heating, then to connect it we use a solid cable coming from the distribution panel located in the rest room or dressing room.
According to the PUE, clause 7.1.40. In saunas for zones 3 and 4 in accordance with GOST R 50571.12-96 "Electrical installations of buildings. Part 7. Requirements for special electrical installations. Section 703. In rooms containing heaters for saunas", electrical wiring with permissible temperature insulation 170 °C.
We choose special lamps/lamps - sealed, designed for use in damp rooms. The seal between the base and the lampshade should be made of heat-resistant silicone, and not rubber, which can crumble when exposed to high temperatures.
The degree of protection of the lamp is IP54. A distribution board, all switches, sockets and pumping stations. In addition to preventing electrical shock, this will help prevent premature equipment failure due to corrosion caused by moisture in the washroom.
T0lyanych
Do not forget about installing a separate grounding near the bathhouse, even if the main grounding is installed in the house.
These are the basics of installing electrics in a bathhouse. Let's move on to practice. As experience shows, the greatest number of questions are raised by the choice of electric cable for the bath, the method of its wiring, as well as safe options electric lighting for the washing room and steam room.
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