With all the variety of roofing materials, the device of roofs is not much different from each other. They share common rules.
Rule 1 stingrays gable roofs must have the shape of a regular rectangle, slopes hip roofs- the shape of isosceles trapezium and isosceles triangles.
This requirement is due to the fact that almost all piece elements roofing have rectangular shape. When laying them on a slope that does not have right angles, for example, having a diamond-shaped outline, an unclosed wedge will inevitably turn out. It is possible to close such a wedge only by cutting and fitting piece roofing materials, which creates additional difficulties, increases the consumption of materials, reduces the speed of construction, and, finally, simply spoils appearance building. But the most important- greatly increases the possibility of roof leakage.
Isosceles slopes of hip roofs make it possible to cut roofing materials in one or two patterns, and use halves of some roofing materials on opposite sides stingray. For example, an asbestos-cement corrugated sheet, cut obliquely, can be used on both sides of the slope. If, by design or as a result of negligence, the ramps roofing have various angles tilt, cutting of piece elements are carried out individually. Eventually- the speed of work is significantly reduced, there is no question of any savings in building materials.
For getting correct forms slopes, you first need to measure the length, width, diagonals and heights of the rebuilt skeleton of the building. Here, a lot of unexpected surprises can open up for the developer. The building in the plan can take the form of a rhombus or a trapezoid. Differences in height on opposite walls can reach several centimeters. Such errors are formed not only due to carelessly performed work on the construction of walls. They could arise due to the fact that at different angles when cutting wooden or masonry brick walls there were unworked masons or carpenters. For example, two unworked masons, constantly standing at opposite corners of the masonry, can give an error of 1 cm per 1 m of height just because one masonry seam is 1 mm thicker, and this despite the fact that both are good masons. What then can we say about amateurs, who will have errors not only in height, but also in linear dimensions due to blockages in the corners out and in. After carrying out the measurements, it is necessary to eliminate the identified defects of the walls, if possible. In order for the roof ridge to be strictly horizontal, and the roof slope to lie in the same plane with the horizon, a number of measures are taken to arrange the truss system. Mauerlat and bed for layered rafters and linings for hanging rafters are set according to the water level ( fig. 1), thereby achieving their horizontal position.
Then measure the distance between the Mauerlat and the bed (it should be the same) ( fig. 2) and check the diagonals. If necessary, the design is corrected. Linings for hanging rafters are checked in the same way - they measure the distance between them and diagonally.
This preparatory stage sometimes takes a lot of time, but the more carefully it is done, the easier it will be build a roof. The bed can be made above or below the Mauerlat beams, this does not play any role, the main thing is that it be horizontal. Mauerlat should lie at the same height around the entire perimeter of the building, lining the same way. After installing the bed, racks are attached to it. They are prepared with the same design height and installed on a plumb line, and the verticality of the installation of the racks is checked both in the longitudinal and transverse directions. Then a run is laid on the racks. Since the bed was set horizontally, and the racks are the same in height and set vertically, it means that the run will lie horizontally. After installation between the bed and the run of the wind struts, rafter legs can be attached.
Rafters are installed at a certain distance from each other. This distance is called the installation step of the rafters and is determined by calculation. The correct installation of the rafters is determined by laying a flat board on 3-4 rafter legs. If there is a visible gap between the board and the rafter leg, the rafter is rearranged. If there are no gaps, then the rafters are set correctly, that is, in the same plane. The final control is carried out visually - the rafter system is viewed from edge to edge. When attaching the rafters, the installation of twisted and humpbacked boards should be avoided, since they will have to be hemmed under the crate, which means that the calculated cross section should be reduced. Boards with a large number of knots, as well as boards with through knots directed across the fibers, it is strictly forbidden to put them - they can break.
Triangular hanging rafter patterns are difficult to assemble in a vertical position, so they are assembled on the ground or on a hard floor and then installed in ready-made. When installing them, make sure that the ridge assembly is strictly above the center line of the building. Because roof trusses have the same dimensions, and the linings are set according to the level, their horizontal position is obtained automatically. Farms are exposed on a plumb line and fixed with wind ties.
The squareness of the roof slopes is provided by the crate. Before installing it, it is desirable to already have roofing material available. Having data on the physical and mechanical characteristics and dimensions of the material, it is possible to calculate the value of the lateral extension of the crate beyond the walls and the length of the fillies, i.e., to determine actual dimensions roof slope. When installing the crate, it is carried out beyond the walls a little more than required. The width of the slope at roofing calculated taking into account the overlap of adjacent sheets of piece roofing material. It is best to do this calculation in real conditions, that is, lay out one row of roofing elements directly on the roof or on the ground, and then measure with a tape measure. This is exactly the situation when you need to measure seven times, and cut off once. The distance obtained as a result of measurement or as a result of calculation is measured on the ridge of the roof, right angles are laid from the extreme points and the excess crate is sawn off. In the same way, the length of the filly is calculated, providing their cornice overhang. When calculating the eaves overhang, one should not forget about the free overhang of the roofing elements by 2-10 cm. A free overhang is performed so that raindrops torn off by the wind do not wet the bottom board of the crate. After all these not very complicated calculations, there will be an integer number of elements on the roof slope, both in vertical and horizontal rows. And since the corners are straight, there will be no hassle with the roofing. Get sleek and smooth roof. A right angle is laid using a wooden square ( fig. 3) with sides of 3, 4, 5 m or with smaller sides that are multiples of these numbers.
On the hip roofs, as mentioned above, we must try to make the same slope angles of the slopes, which is possible only with correct installation Mauerlatov and beds.
Rule 2 Before the installation of a coating from the main roofing material, the grooves, valleys, junctions of pipes to the roof and junctions dormer windows covered on a continuous crate with galvanized roofing steel(Fig. 4 and 5). To cover the junction of pipes and dormers, a blank is made and installed together with the main coating.
Rule 3 The bottom bar of the batten must be higher than all subsequent bars by the thickness of the roofing material being laid. To understand what this is for, just look at Fig. 6.
Whether this bar is the same as all the others, the cornice element of the roof will "nod".
Rule 4 All roofs are covered from the bottom up, towards the rain stream.
Some roofs, for example wavy sheets, stacked towards the prevailing winds from left to right or, conversely, from right to left.
A lot of roofing materials already have holes for nails or wire twists in their design, either they are made on a self-adhesive basis, or there are special adhesives and sealed gaskets. Roof device from such materials is not difficult, as it is fully thought out.
Roofing materials only need to be assembled on the roof, like a children's designer. For roofing materials that do not have fixing holes (cement-fiber corrugated sheets, metal tiles, profiled flooring), roofing nails are supplied in the kit to match the color of the coating. These nails are fastened to the comb of a piece element with a rubber sealing washer.
In addition to fasteners, kits of modern roofing materials are supplied with ridge and cornice elements, cuttings for pipes and much more.
Rule 5 Under roofs mansard roofs lay an additional waterproofing layer of polyethylene film, roofing felt or roofing material. Under "cold" roofs, additional waterproofing is desirable, but not required. In all subsequent drawings, additional waterproofing will be shown, but this does not mean that it is mandatory.
Rule 6 On device warm roofs don't forget the airflow
between the insulation and the crate, which should be from 2 to 5 cm, otherwise the insulation will lose its properties due to saturation with moisture.
Rule 7 When installing roofs, you must not forget to tie yourself to the ridge
, and when laying the last ridge element, consider the method of evacuation from the roof. Very often one has to descend on a rope thrown over the ridge of the roof and tied to something heavy lying on the ground on the other side, or the rope is tied to the ridge of the roof and passed under the upper roofing element, then after the descent, the rope is pulled out and the roof is corrected from the inside. Of course, such a descent requires a certain physical preparation. Why is such a stunt method of descent mentioned, when you can make a walking ladder and leave it on the roof forever? Because, as a rule, roofs are very often performed without a ladder.
And lastly, if a person experiences even the slightest dizziness when ascending to a height, then he has nothing to do on the roof, let others do it - not everyone is born astronauts.
Larisa Georgievna Bakanova
I have a house in a village in the Volkhovsky district. It was necessary to do roof repairs and installation downpipes and gutters.
I turned to the company "Top Stroy". The measurer promptly left for the object, made all the necessary measurements. On the next day, the contract and estimate were ready. The material was delivered in a timely manner. The work was done quickly, the roofing masters were wonderful, their hands were “golden”, professionals, it was easy to communicate, they resolved all issues constructively. Working with galvanized iron is difficult, they did it perfectly, I am very pleased, the roof is beautiful, the gutters look great. I am very pleased. I recommend this company to everyone.
Sincerely, L.G. Bakanova 06/05/2013
Leningrad region, Volkhov district, village of Seliverstovo, private house
Galkin Petr Ivanovich
For roof restoration/replacement country house turned to Verkh Stroy (I found information and reviews about them on the Internet).
Roof repair work completed. The attitude of the team of workers to the fulfillment of contractual obligations and the quality of the work performed are at a good level. Thank you!
LO, Vsevolozhsky district, pos. Priyutino, Gardening "Granite", country house
Andrey Anatolievich Mishchenko
We contacted Verkh Stroy for emergency roof insulation. The work was done quickly and efficiently and delivered on time as agreed. The brigade worked Russian. Communication is businesslike and polite. I recommend this company to anyone who is looking for real professionals! Thanks a lot!
Leningrad region, Priozersky district, Torfyanoe settlement, private cottage
Chairman of the Board of HOA "Graftio" Ishchenko Svetlana Nikolaevna
In September 2012, there was a need for repairs in the HOA "Graftio" soft roof on an area of 70 sq.m. 6 (six) contractors were considered, incl. "Top Build".
At our request, Master Chernykh V.Yu. came to our site. On the spot, an examination of the roof was carried out and a commercial offer was promptly drawn up, which completely satisfied us.
Directly roofing works supervised by Poknya I.M.
The work was completed in full, quickly and efficiently. No more leaks are observed.
Our HOA is grateful to Verkh Stroy and we look forward to further cooperation.
Multi-storey residential building, St. Petersburg, Graftio street, 3
Tumilyanis Andrei Vladimirovich
Thanks for the service. The roof was leaking. Repaired with TechnoNIKOL deposited material. To the old shingles, welded a new layer of 130 m2. Very prompt. Communicate politely. Punctuality is great! All is well, thanks for your work!
October 11, 2012
Leningrad Region p. Volodarsky, private cottage
Natalya Anatolyevna Lobasova
I rated the work of the masters of the Verkh Stroy company at 5 +. They worked quickly (two days), efficiently, neatly. I am very satisfied with the work done. Pleasant in communication. Work in any weather. I don't think I would have found better masters.
Roof covering with ondulin 85 m2.
mr. Berndgardovka, country house.
Repair of the roof (roof) of the container was completed without remarks and on time. I have no complaints about the quality.
09/01/2012
Chudinovskikh V.A. Mechanic "Amron"
Malysheva Nadezhda Viktorovna
In August 2012 We contacted the Verkh Stroy company regarding the repair of the roof of a country house, entering their website and sending a preliminary application. I wanted to find competent specialists. Everything that we were offered before was alarming by the unprofessional approach. On the first working day, the manager of the company called and acquainted with the cost of work and sent the contract. The Master quickly went to the place, took into account all our wishes and professionally and unobtrusively advised us to correct them. We decided everything on the spot. The next day the new contract was ready.
The company promptly purchased and delivered the material. A professional Russian team completed the dismantling of the slate, the repair of the lathing, the installation of metal tiles, the installation of gutters on time and with high quality, and neatly stored the waste.
I had to work during a rainy period, but I was especially pleased that the company covers the house in any weather at night with an awning, relieving any tension from the customer.
We were satisfied.
Sincerely, Malysheva N.V.
Dacha cooperative Sosnovy Bor.
Alexey Alexandrovich Shiryaev
I turned to the company "Top Stroy", to block the roof of a country house of 237 m2. Very well explained and constructive possible types works. Together with the master, we chose the most optimal variant of work in terms of "price-quality".
All organizational work, coordination and delivery of the material, the company "Verkh Stroy" took over.
The work on the installation of the roofing was carried out within the agreed time frame.
Competent specialists and the manager are focused on the result and on the fact that their work is sure to please the Customer.
Thank you so much!
Replacing the old slate with bituminous tiles in the country house of the village. Ends LO
Kirill Stepanovich Golubev
Thanks for the good work. The roof was made quickly and efficiently, the roofing felt was removed, the crate was repaired and the corrugated board was laid. Arrived within two weeks as agreed.
Private house, p. Luzhki LO
Maria Guzhel
We turned to the company "Top Stroy" to sort out the roof in the country house of 82 m2. Removed old slate and made an ondulin coating. Now you can open the season. The prices are acceptable. Best deal I've found. They were afraid that migrant workers would come, but Russian guys worked. You are just great! Thank you!
Horticulture "Movement" of the Kirovsky district of the Leningrad Region
Good afternoon!
Please tell me how to do it right.
flooded strip foundation on the 16th reinforcement, 62-64 centimeters wide to a depth of 2 meters 10 centimeters. The dimensions along the outer perimeter are 11 meters by 12 meters 60 centimeters. With an average tape under a bearing partition 62 centimeters wide for laying floor slabs PP-63 and PP-54. It is planned to build a house on three floors from aerated concrete blocks with a width of (400 * 600 * 250 mm) or (450 * 600 * 250 mm), with insulation of the outer wall - 50 mm basalt insulation, air gap -20 mm, finishing brick -120 mm.
During the installation of the foundation of the protruding element of the "bay window" sector, octagonal, (protrusion beyond the dimensions of the foundation 11 * 12.6 meters along the wide half of the foundation PP-63) for the halls. The diagonal of the foundation was taken away by 18 centimeters while controlling the dimensions of the perimeter diagonal of 11 * 12.6 meters.
The support of the floor slab on the walls is planned to be 200 mm.
I earnestly ask you to give professional advice:
1. Is it worth trying to align the diagonals by equipping hanging masonry from solid ordinary brick with a hardness of 200 with mesh reinforcement and maximum by how many centimeters?
There is a fear that under the mass of facing bricks, the overhanging part of the broadening above the foundation will deform and the lining of 3 floors will crack
2. It will be limited to a small overhang of 3-5 cm to compensate for the diagonals with the subsequent erection of the structure.
3. What are the allowable deviations of the diagonals with such dimensions of the building in construction?
4. What are the consequences if you do not apply diagonal compensation when installing floor slabs, will it change load bearing capacity building??? How to lead exterior finish when facing facing bricks. Nicholas
Hello Nikolay!
- Aligning the diagonals makes sense, since the loss right angle can lead to difficulties in performing a number of works - from facade masonry to roofing and finishing.
Most reliable way align diagonals - make monolithic belt at the basement level of the building. The outer contour of the belt must clearly form the desired geometry of the facade. The task of the internal contour is to ensure the possibility of erecting the main walls of aerated concrete blocks at a right angle.
The height of such a belt should be taken within 200-300 mm. Longitudinal reinforcement - at least 6 reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12 mm class A-III(A400). Since such a belt will have side overhangs (due to which the geometry will be adjusted), transverse reinforcement in such places should be performed with closed-section clamps made of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm A-I (A240) in increments of 100 mm at the overhangs and 400 mm at the rest of the areas.
An example of belt reinforcement with 6 longitudinal bars and cross-section clamps of a closed section
The belt should be supported on the underground walls, made, for example, of red (clay) bricks or FBS blocks. The width of the belt should be sufficient to install a wall structure on it (at least the sum: 120 mm of cladding + 20 mm gap + 50 mm of insulation + 400 or 450 mm of aerated concrete masonry).
To avoid deformation of the cladding, the facade masonry must be securely anchored into the main wall.
An example of anchoring facade masonry (in your case, a different insulation and less ventilation gap, but the essence is the same) flexible connection "Galen" BPA L-6-2P with a step of 500x500 mm
- With small overhangs, you can limit yourself reinforced masonry solid brick enough high brand strength (M200 is suitable). But in this case, it will only be possible to partially correct the geometry, which will complicate the implementation further work. In addition, such a strength grade is typical for white (silicate) bricks, which are not intended for laying underground parts of walls. Red (clay) brick, often used for these purposes, is less durable.
- Deviations in geometric dimensions during the construction of walls made of brickwork are regulated by the requirements of SP 70.13330.2012 "Bearing and enclosing structures", in particular table 9.8.
Dimensional tolerances for stone structures
As can be seen from the table, the deviation of the walls from the center axes (that is, in plan) should not exceed 10 mm. There is no standard prohibiting making a diamond-shaped and trapezoidal building in terms of plan (that is, figures with different diagonals).
- If you do not compensate for the difference in diagonals, the main consequences will be the following: difficulties with the construction facing masonry(at corners), wedge cuts floor material(with the correct geometric pattern it will be striking), possible problems when joining roofing material (depending on the configuration of the roof), etc. Measures to correct the geometry will pay off handsomely.
If the depth of support of the floor slabs along the entire length of the supporting part is not less than the required one (90 mm for reinforced concrete and 120 mm for brickwork), reducing the reliability of the building in terms of load-bearing structures will not happen. Do not forget to anchor the floor slabs to each other and to the masonry.
General rules for any foundation
We choose a starting point. The first side of our foundation needs to be tied to some object of our site.
Example. Let's make our foundation (house) parallel to one of the sides of the fence. Therefore, we stretch the first twine equidistant from this side of the fence to the distance we need.
Construction of a right angle (90⁰). As an example, we will consider a rectangular foundation in which all angles are as close as possible to 90⁰.
There are several ways to do this. We will look at 2 main ones. © www.site
Method 1. Golden Triangle Rule
To construct a right angle, we will use the Pythagorean theorem.
In order not to delve into the geometry, let's try to describe it in a simpler way. So that between two segments a and b to make an angle of 90⁰, you need to add the lengths of these segments and take the root of this sum. The resulting number will be our long diagonal connecting our segments. It is very easy to calculate with a calculator.
Usually, when marking the foundation, they take the dimensions of the sides, so that when deduced from the root, an integer is obtained. Example: 3x4x5; 6x8x10.
If you have a tape measure, then in general there will be no problems if you take segments other than those commonly used. For example: 3x3x4.24; 2x2x2.83; 4x6x7.21
If we made measurements in meters, then the values are very clear: 4m24cm; 2m83cm; 7m21cm.
Calculator
It is also worth noting that measurements can be made in any length measurement systems, the main thing is to use the aspect ratio known to us: 3x4x5 meters, 3x4x5 centimeters, etc. That is, even if you do not have a tool for measuring the length, you can take, for example, a rail (the length of the rail does not matter) and measure it (3 rails x 4 rails x 5 rails).
Now let's see how to put it into practice.
Instructions for marking a rectangular foundation
Method 1. The rules of the golden triangle (t. Pythagoras)
Consider, for example, the construction of a rectangular foundation with dimensions of 6x8m using a golden triangle (t. Pythagoras).
1. We mark the first side of the foundation. This is the easiest part in building our rectangle. The main thing to remember. If we want our foundation (house) to be parallel to one of the sides of the fence or another object on the site or beyond, then we make the first line of our foundation equidistant from the object we have chosen. We have described this procedure above. To place the first twine, you can use pegs firmly fixed in the ground, but in ideal for this purpose, use a cast-off. We will use it. The distance between the cast-offs for this side will be 14m: between the cast-offs and the future corners of 3m and 8m under the foundation.
2. We stretch the second string as perpendicular as possible to the first. Ideally perpendicular in practice, it is difficult to pull, so in the figure we also displayed it slightly deviated.
3. We fasten both strings at the intersection point. You can fasten with a bracket or tape. The main thing is to be safe.
4. We proceed to the formation of a right angle using the Pythagorean theorem. We will build right triangle with legs 3 by 4 meters and a hypotenuse of 5 meters. To begin with, we measure 4 meters on the first string from the intersection of the strings, and on the second 3 meters. We put marks on the lace using adhesive tape (clothespin, etc.).
5. We connect both marks with a tape measure. We fix one end of the tape measure at the 4-meter mark and lead towards the 3-meter mark on the other twine.
6. If we have a right triangle, then both marks should converge at a distance of 5 meters. In our case, the marks did not match. Therefore, we move the twine in our case to the right until the moment when the mark of 3 m coincides with the division of the tape measure by 5 m.
7. As a result, we got a right triangle with a 90⁰ angle between two strings.
8. We do not need more marks and they can be removed.
9. Let's start building a rectangle. We measure on both strings the lengths of the sides of our foundation 6 and 8 meters, respectively. We put marks on the twine.
10. We stretch the third string as perpendicular as possible to the first string. We fasten both strings at a mark of 8 m.
11. We stretch the fourth string as perpendicular as possible to the second string. We fasten both strings to a mark of 6 meters.
12. We make marks on the third twine 6 meters and on the fourth 8 meters.
13. To get a quadrilateral with right angles in our case, it is necessary that both marks on the third and fourth twine coincide. To do this, move both strings until the marks are connected.
14. As a result, if everything is measured correctly, then we should get the correct rectangle. Let's check if it turned out by measuring the diagonals.
15. Measure the lengths of the diagonals. If they are the same, as in our case, we have the correct rectangle. The diagonals are the same length in an isosceles trapezoid. But we know one angle of 90⁰, and there are no such angles in an isosceles trapezoid.
16. Finished layout of a rectangular foundation using the Pythagorean theorem. © www.site
Method 2. Web
A very simple way to make a markup in the form of a rectangle with 90⁰ corners. The most important thing we need is a string that does not stretch, and the accuracy of your measurements with a tape measure.
1. Cut the pieces of twine that we need to form the markup. In this example, we are building a foundation with sides of 6 by 8 meters. Also, for the correct construction of a rectangle, we need equal diagonals, which for a rectangle of 6 by 8 meters will be equal to 10 meters (so Pythagoras is described above). You also need to take a margin of length of twine for fastening.
2. We connect our "web" as in the figure. We fasten the sides with diagonals in 4 places at the corners. The diagonals themselves at the intersection point do not need to be fastened.
3. We stretch the first twine (points 1,2). We will fasten it with pegs. The main thing is that the pegs are firmly held in the ground and that when our structure is pulled, they are not taken away. This important point need to be taken into account.
4. We stretch the corner 3. The main condition is that the twine 1-3 and the diagonal 2-3 do not sag and are stretched as much as possible. After fixing with the help of a peg at point 3, we have an angle at point 1 of 90⁰.
5. Stretch corner 4 and set the peg. We make sure that the twine at points 2-4, 3-4 and the diagonal 1-4 do not sag and are as tight as possible.
6. If all the conditions are met, then as a result we should get a rectangle with corners as close as possible to 90⁰.
Marking under the foundation of the house
We make a two-tier cast-off. The lower tier is the level of the pillars.
The upper tier of the cast-off is the level of the grillage.
We create a rectangle for the outer contour using the so-called Pythagoras. Then we retreat by an amount equal to the width of the tape and make an inner contour.
The easiest way to markup. We build a rectangle according to the dimensions of the foundation using the Pythagorean theorem to find the right angle. © www.site
From the author
In this article, we looked at how to mark up the foundation with our own hands with the construction of a rectangle with 90⁰ corners. In general, there is nothing difficult in the markup. The price of the question is the cost of twine, a cast-off board (economy option - pegs) and the ability to use a tape measure.
stingrays gable roofs should have the shape of a regular rectangle, the slopes of hip roofs - the shape of isosceles triangles or trapeziums. This requirement is due to the fact that almost all piece elements of roofing have a rectangular shape. When laying them on a non-rectangular slope, for example, having a rhomboid or trapezoid shape at different elevations of the ridge or the wrong dimensions of the perimeter of the walls, an unclosed wedge will inevitably turn out. It can be closed only by fitting piece roofing materials, which creates additional difficulties, increases the consumption of materials, reduces the speed of construction and, finally, simply spoils the appearance of the building, but most importantly, it greatly increases the possibility of roof leakage.
Isosceles slopes of hip roofs make it possible to cut roofing materials in one or two patterns, and use halves of some roofing materials on opposite sides of the slope. For example, an ondulin sheet cut obliquely can be used on both sides of the ramp. If, according to the project or as a result of negligence, the roof slopes have different angles of inclination, the cutting of piece elements is carried out individually. As a result, the speed of work is significantly reduced, and there is no question of any savings in building materials.
To obtain the correct forms of slopes, it is necessary to measure the length, width, diagonals and heights of the rebuilt skeleton of the building. A lot of unexpected surprises can open up here. Differences in height on opposite walls can reach several centimeters, and the perimeter of the walls can have angles other than straight lines. The check begins with a measurement of the diagonals along the upper edge of the walls on each of the rectangular sections of the building. If the length of the diagonals does not match, then this means that the walls either have different elevations, or the building does not have right angles and it has a rhomboid or trapezoid shape. In buildings with gables made of wall material, you need to check the height of opposite gables with a long stick.
After measurements, the identified wall defects are eliminated. Align the walls to the horizon and, if possible, make the corners rectangular. On buildings with pediments, due to the incorrect breakdown of the foundation, and then the construction of walls, elevation differences along the top of the pediments can sometimes reach 20 cm. Such a defect can only be corrected by rearranging the pediment, or you need to come to terms with the idea that the ridge will not be horizontal, but consequently, the slopes of the gables will be different. In principle, such a height difference is not very noticeable on the roof, but each rafter and each element of the roofing material will need to be adjusted individually.
Altitude differences along the perimeter of the walls, roof-bearing, are eliminated with a cement-sand screed. The walls along the entire perimeter are checked with a water level and a leveling screed is performed on top of them. A solution of a brand not lower than M150 is used. Large differences are eliminated by masonry with a split or the walls are not leveled, and wooden linings are inserted under the Mauerlat beams, which is much worse, as often as possible. The walls under the bed or the installation of racks of the sub-rafter structure are aligned to the horizon, but they do not have to be coordinated with the elevations of the outer walls. The inner walls for laying the bed can be higher or lower than the outer ones, but always horizontal. When laying the bed on brick posts the top of the columns is aligned to the horizon.
All wooden structures before installation, they must be treated with antiseptics and kept for a time specified by the manufacturer of the chemical composition.
After setting the leveling screed outer walls roll out hydroisol, roofing felt or other rolled waterproofing material and fold it in half along the longitudinal axis. The resulting width of the waterproofing should ensure its bending on side surface Mauerlat, because in brick houses there is still laid a brick for the device of the cornice. In general, waterproofing should protect the wooden mauerlat from all possible contact with the wall material. If the Mauerlat is attached to the wall with anchors, then the waterproofing is pierced on the pins. If it is fastened with brackets, then the waterproofing is simply laid dry. Sometimes waterproofing is glued to the leveling screed bituminous primer, is not prohibited, but there is no special need for it.
There are many ways to mark rafters and rafter beams, including such exotic ones as using Swenson and Stanley rafter squares. We will describe how this most often occurs in construction practice when the roof is made by ordinary carpenters who have a very vague idea of \u200b\u200bgeometry as a science. However, they rarely make mistakes and their roofs are excellent.
By laying the Mauerlat, they try to correct the non-rectangularity of the perimeter of the walls. The beams are laid out on the wall and the diagonals of the building are checked, measuring already at the corners of the Mauerlat frame (Fig. 52). By shifting the beams along the wall, the diagonals are equal, and its final position is marked with a pencil. Mauerlat beams are sawn to make locks, assembled on the wall and finally fixed on it.
Rice. 52. Marking the installation site of the Mauerlat and the bed
When installing a Mauerlat frame, there is one subtle point. The height of the Mauerlat must be selected in advance, that is, at least a draft design must be drawn. Otherwise, the fillies nailed to the rafter leg may not pass over the edge of the wall and the walls will have to be hemmed. Therefore, given the height of the ridge, walls and rafters, it is better to draw a section of the roof on a scale in advance and select the height of the Mauerlat and its installation location. It is often necessary to observe a picture when, during the construction of roofs without a project, the craftsmen shift the Mauerlat to the very edge of the wall along outer surface, otherwise they cannot release the filly. In general, there is nothing wrong with the fact that the Mauerlat is installed along the outer edge of the wall, but only if it is a non-thrust rafter system and this is the edge of the wall, but often it is a brick cornice in which the brick has already been released beyond the wall. It would be wiser to increase the height of the Mauerlat beam and leave it in the center of the wall or closer to the inner surface of the wall. If it is not possible to increase the height of the Mauerlat, then you just need to raise the parapet from the inside higher or disassemble part of the wall from outside parapet. And that's it. Then the Mauerlat will remain where it should be and the filly will not hit the wall.
Next, mark the position of the bed. Measuring from the Mauerlat, we place it strictly in the middle, then we will get a roof with equal slopes. For the device of hip roofs, we shift the bed by the same distance, from its end to the Mauerlat, deep into the house, then the angle of inclination of the hip will be equal to the angle the slope of the main slopes. However, if it is planned to change the angle of inclination of the hip relative to the slopes, then we shift the bed to the distance that is needed. We lay the bed on two layers of waterproofing and fasten it with staples or wire twists with inner wall. The twists either had to be laid into the wall in advance during its construction, or they are attached to self-locking anchors (ruffs) installed in the wall. If the bed is laid on newly laid brick columns, then we fasten it to the wall, and not to the columns. In buildings with reinforced concrete floors twists can be tied to the mounting loops of the floor slabs. In buildings with gas silicate, foam concrete and other light walls you must first make a monolithic belt and release the anchor. The bed is fastened with anchors. In general, in any of the ways we attach the bed to the wall in the design position, the top of the bed must be aligned to the horizon. If the roof is made without laying down, then the installation sites of the racks are marked in a similar way, and the bottom of the racks is subsequently fixed to each other by contractions.
After laying and fixing the bed, they proceed to the construction of scaffolding. The most frustrating part of the job is wasting time and lumber on unproductive work. However, scaffolding must be made securely, not only will you have to walk on it, but also work on it with a load of rafters and girders being raised. Scaffolding must be supported by struts and unfastened by cross-fights, otherwise they will lose stability and fall.
Next, the racks are cut out on the sub-rafter structure. Since the bed was set to the horizon, all racks are made of the same design length. In buildings with pediments made with marriage (of different heights), a cord is stretched between the top of the pediments and each post is cut to the length that is necessary, taking into account the height of the run and rafters. When installing racks on a bed, they are checked for verticality in two planes (on two faces): transverse and longitudinal. Verticality is checked with a plumb line or level, placing it against the side surface of the uprights. After that, the racks are fixed in the design position. The easiest way is to fasten them with boards to the scaffolding.
What to do first: install scaffolding or racks? Who is more comfortable. You can first install the racks and temporarily unfasten them with struts, and then attach the scaffolding to them, you can, on the contrary, first securely put the scaffolding and unfasten the racks to them. Sometimes they try to work from ladders. Racks are exposed and unfastened, and for laying the run and rafters, a ladder is supported on the racks. This is dangerous. Firstly, under the weight of a person and the load that he holds, for example, when laying a run, the steps of the stairs can break. Secondly, a poorly braced rack can lose stability and fall along with the ladder leaning against it. And finally, thirdly. Try to work normally when you have a 60-centimeter perch of a ladder step under your feet, and you need to move a heavy run or rafter to set it correctly.
A run is laid on the racks. If everything is done correctly, the top of the bed is horizontal, the racks are of the same height and are installed vertically in two planes, then the run will simply fall into place. In buildings with uneven height gables, the top of the run should be parallel to the stretched cord. For hip roofs, do not forget to release the run behind the racks, forming consoles for supporting the rafters.
Once again, we check the subrafter structure for verticality and the run for horizontality, correct, if necessary, and unfasten all the nodes to the design position: we nail the wooden lining, put brackets or metal plates, but leave the entire subrafter frame temporarily unfastened to the scaffolding or to the struts.
Next, install a test board rafter leg. There are several ways to cut and fit rafters. We will focus on the simplest and most commonly used ones, which do not require any devices other than the head and hands.
1. The rafters are marked on the slider and on the node with the support bar.
At the bottom there is a slider or a pivotally fixed support with a support bar, the top of the rafter is simply laid on the run and stitched with the other rafter leg with an overlap or rests against the other rafter leg.
The board is laid with its upper end on the upper edge of the run, the lower end on the inner upper edge of the Mauerlat (Fig. 53.1). One or two rafter trims are placed on the Mauerlat and a line is drawn parallel to the Mauerlat. When cutting on a slider, the rafter does not change the slope, it simply falls below and rests on the Mauerlat, if necessary, it can be supplemented with a support bar. If the rafter is marked and cut into a tooth, then after trimming the cut becomes incorrect.
rice. 53.1. Marking and cutting rafters. Bottom with Reliance on Mauerlat, top - with Emphasis on each other or next to each other
After trimming and installing the first rafter leg, the opposite rafter is also installed and trimmed. The top of the rafter legs is left as is until all rafters are fully installed. Then they are either cut along the edge of another rafter and bolted together or sewn together with a nail fight, or they mark the vertical on them and saw off the excess, joining the rafters into each other. Sawing two tops of the rafters at the same time is not recommended, since the thickness of the saw teeth will leave a large gap and the rafters will not fit tightly. It is better to push the rafters apart and saw off the tops of them separately, one to the left of the line, the other to the right. At good quality rafters are joined without a gap.
2.Bottom and top pivotally fixed supports.
At the bottom of the rafter leg, a notch is made to engage with the Mauerlat with a tooth, and at the top, a notch with a triangle. If the upper notch is made exactly according to the profile of the run, then the knot will work as a pivotally fixed support, if the vertical cheek of the notch is made with a bevel, then the knot will turn into a pivotally movable one.
The rafter board is laid with an edge on the run and the Mauerlat (Figure 53.2). Bottom part boards at an angle rests on the Mauerlat at any point on its surface. A template is laid on the side of the Mauerlat, for example, it can be a cut of a rafter with well-cut edges (the ends are sawn off at a right angle) edges. The pattern is shifted to inner corner Mauerlat and is combined with its vertical surface. The bottom of the rafter leg begins to move along the Mauerlat, ensuring that a cut with a tooth is obtained on the rafter. It is quite simple, laying the template board and moving the rafter, you can visually see what kind of cutting will turn out. Having achieved right size cuttings, outline the lines along which the rafters will be cut. The template is transferred to the upper cut, and more often, another person stands at the top of the scaffolding and he has his own template (cut from the same board, so they are the same), at the command of the first one, he sets the template for the run, aligning its end with the vertical plane of the run, and outlines the second notch. The rafter is not removed from the run and the Mauerlat, they turn over and cut out the cuts. Then set it to the design position.
rice. 53.2. Marking and cutting rafters. Bottom with an emphasis on the Mauerlat, top - with a horizontal notch with an emphasis on the run
Why is a trimmed board cut off used as a template, because you can also use a level and a tape measure? It is possible, but the cutting of the board gives a visual representation of the future profile of the cut, and in this case it is better not to use the level at all. wooden beams, due to drying, are far from the correct rectangular geometry, most often, with apparent evenness, they are actually humpbacked and twisted. Therefore, it is better to put another board on their plane and outline the cuts along it. Carpenters use a hacksaw for this purpose, for example, when outlining a cut for landing on a run, they apply a hacksaw with an edge without teeth to the vertical edge of the run and draw a line on the rafter with a pencil. No matter how the run beam spins, the line will repeat its profile, but the level showing the vertical would give an error. So it's better to use age-old wisdom: cut the board, trim it and use it as a template. The thickness of the board is chosen depending on the depth of the cuts and each project has its own, most often, the template is made from the same board as the rafters.
3. At the bottom is a pivotally movable support (slider), at the top - pivotally fixed.
At the bottom of the rafter leg, support is made on a slider, which, if necessary, by installing support bars, can be turned into a pivotally fixed support. At the top, a cut is made into a triangle, which, in turn, by cutting the lateral cheek, can transfer the knot from a hinged motionless to a hinged movable one (Fig. 53.3).
rice. 53.3. Marking and cutting rafters. Bottom with Support on the Mauerlat, top - with a horizontal notch with an emphasis on the run
Everything is done the same as in the second option described above, with the only difference, when the lower end of the rafter leg is moved along the rafter, then the rafter is cut in the same plane, that is, without gearing.
4. At the bottom and at the top of the rafter leg are pivotally fixed supports.
At the bottom of the rafter leg, a cut is made on the tooth, at the top, the end of the rafter leg rests against a run or a diagonal (diagonal) rafter.
The rafter board is laid with an edge on the run and the Mauerlat. The bottom corner of the board is combined with the outer edge of the Mauerlat. At the top, a template or a hacksaw is applied to vertical surface run and a cut line is outlined on the rafter. For the connection device to the rafter legs, two lines are drawn on both sides of the board being processed. The length of the cut line (x) is measured: pencil marks are made on the template with a tape measure. The template is transferred to the lower support node, it is attached to the inner vertical plane mauerlat and from its edge lay the size (x) on the rafter board. Then, in any way, most often, by applying a board, a line is drawn parallel to the upper plane of the Mauerlat (Fig. 53.4).
rice. 53.4. Marking and cutting rafters. Bottom with Emphasis on the Mauerlat, top - with Emphasis on the run
By shifting the bottom of the rafter leg along the Mauerlat, an increase or decrease in the depth of the cut of the tooth is achieved. On roofs with steep slopes, a tooth may not work at all, it’s okay, installing a support bar will help. By changing the size (x) when transferring it to the lower node, you can change the nature of the support in the upper node, that is, align the rafter along the upper or lower edge of the run. If you decrease (x), the rafter at the top will rise, increase - it will fall.
The board is turned over, sawn according to the marks and set to the design position. In the rafters, resting on the cranial bars of the oblique rafter leg, the cut is marked, the board is turned over again, the cut is made and put in place. The cut for landing on the cranial bar is done in the same way, you just need to raise the bottom of the rafter to the height of the cranial bar: put a piece of the cranial bar under it or simply support the end of the board in weight while the assistant marks the cut.
5. Marking of the rafter leg extended beyond the wall, that is, the rafter is installed without fillies.
At the top is a pivotally fixed support, at the bottom - a slider (Fig. 53.5).
rice. 53.5. Marking and cutting rafters. The bottom with the Support on the Mauerlat and the removal of the rafters from the wall, the top - with a horizontal cut with an emphasis on the run
The rafter board is laid with an edge on the run and Mauerlat. The bottom of the board is taken out of the wall and held on weight. Templates are installed on the Mauerlat and the run with the alignment of the ends along the outer vertical surface of the beams. The cutting line is outlined, the board is turned over and cuts are cut. The rafter is installed in the design position.
6. Markup only bottom node support, at the bottom and at the top pivotally movable supports - sliders. Structural stability is ensured ridge knot when tying the top of the rafter legs.
Everything is done the same as in the previous case, but a template is placed on the run, which maintains the angle of inclination of the ramp. After the lower cut is cut out, and the template is removed from the run, the rafter moves into the design position (Fig. 53.6).
fig.53.6. Marking and cutting rafters. Bottom with Reliance on the Mauerlat and the removal of the rafters from the wall, top - with Reliance on the run
All of the listed options for trimming rafters work on the same principle: rafter board is installed in the required position, from which, after the device of the cuts, it slides into the seats from above or from the side, without changing the angle of inclination.
If it was possible to place the Mauerlat frame horizontally and align the diagonals, and install the run horizontally, then it is enough to make one rafter leg, and do all the others along it, using the first one as a template. If the walls of the house are so curved that it was not possible to align the diagonals on the Mauerlat frame, or if the gables are of different heights on houses with gables, then a pair of rafter legs is installed on both ends of the building. Cords are stretched between them and all other rafters are made individually, since each of them will be different from the previous one. During installation, the flatness of the slopes is constantly checked. This is done either by pulling the cords between the extreme rafters, or a long, even board is placed on top of the rafters, which is moved along the edges of the rafter legs and checked for clearance.
Rafters are installed at a certain distance from each other, this distance is called a step. When designing a roof, the installation step of the rafters is set along the longitudinal axes of the rafter legs; this is not very convenient during installation. Therefore, to measure the pitch, 2–3 slats are made with a length equal to the rafter pitch minus the thickness of the rafter, that is, the length of the slat will be equal to the distance between the edges of the rafters - the distance in the clearance. Having installed one rafter leg, the location of the other is determined by attaching it to the first rail.
After all the rafters are installed, the distance between them is checked again and the support nodes are fixed to the design position: they are fixed with brackets, special metal plates, wooden bosses, nail fights, bolts.
Then proceed to the installation of filly. The filly (Fig. 11) is the release of the rafters behind the wall, providing an overhang of the roof. Usually they are made from a board of half height and thickness from the section of the rafter leg. The fillies are attached to the rafters with a nail fight. The length of the fixing part is about 60–80 cm, and the free overhang above the wall is 40–50 cm.
The overhang of the cornice is selected, no matter how strange it may sound, from the length of the arms. The cornice overhang is subsequently often hemmed with molded materials, therefore, you need to somehow reach out, for example, with a lining board to the end of the overhang, hold the board in the design position and nail it. If the overhang is short, then the wall of the building can get wet from slanting rain, if it is long, there will not be enough hands for filing and it is necessary to install scaffolding, and at heights up to 10 m this is very problematic for an amateur builder. In brick houses, the walls are laid out with the release of bricks and the installation of a cornice from the wall material, thereby increasing the overhang. In houses made of lightweight concrete materials, the overhang is either 40-50 cm, or we come up with scaffolding. If the cornice is not hemmed with anything, then the overhang can be made longer, but not more than 60 cm. Longer overhangs should be supported by consoles released (or fixed in another way) from the wall, which can also perform a decorative function.
Loading...