The leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid turn yellow: why and what to do? Orchid Phalaenopsis: getting rid of diseases and pests Why Phalaenopsis has wavy leaves

Often our attention is attracted by the delightful phalaenopsis orchids with their bizarrely shaped flowers and varied colors. But when flowering has passed in the dormant period, only beautiful leaves remain. And even, it would seem, with proper care, there may be problems with their growth. This article will help you figure out why the orchid does not grow leaves and what needs to be done so that they quickly grow.

The leaves are very important for the normal development of the orchid. Being an epiphyte, it can feed not only through the root system, but also with the help of leaf blades. And even when there are problems with the roots, the plant can be reanimated through the leaves. Therefore, it is very important to understand the reasons for stopping their growth.

Air temperature

An orchid pleases its admirer only under comfortable conditions of its maintenance. The air temperature of the room where the plant is located should be about 21-26 degrees. In summer, it is better to move phalaenopsis from the windowsill deep into the room with diffused lighting away from direct sunlight. This will help avoid leaf scorch, which will appear as discolored spots with a brown edge and cause subsequent drying.

In winter, a slight drop in temperature to 16-20 degrees is favorable for the orchid, but no less. But it is also necessary to ensure that the flower located on the windowsill is not subjected to a temperature difference between day and night of more than 5-6 degrees, since a significant temperature difference can lead to its death. Small temperature jumps do not harm the plant, but contribute to the laying of flower buds.

Watering

Improper watering may be one of the reasons why an orchid has problems with leaf growth. During the heating period, when the air in the room is very dry, the plant quickly loses moisture. In this case, it is recommended to water at least twice a week, and if necessary, irrigate or spray every other day. It is good to use a humidifier for residential areas.

For a comfortable existence, plants of this species need balanced watering. With an excess of moisture, the roots rot, which contributes to the death of the flower, and an insufficient amount of water leads to drying. Therefore, you should focus on the color of the roots and the condition of the leaves. Yellowing, softness and wateriness of the lower leaves indicates an increased moisture content of the substrate, which led to rotting of the root system.

But it is also important to properly water at home. Use only soft or medium hard water at room temperature. It is good to combine watering methods. When watering from a watering can, water is poured until it begins to flow through the drainage holes. Moisture should not drain into the center of the socket, as if it gets inside, there is a risk of decay. Excess water drains from the tray. After a few minutes, the flower is watered again, and again excess moisture is removed.

The method of watering from the shower creates conditions that are closer to the natural habitat of the phalaenopsis.

The ingress of warm water onto the substrate in small streams contributes to its uniform wetting. After a shower, the flower must be dried and thoroughly blotted with all the moisture. For orchids growing in baskets with tree bark, the method of immersion in water is useful. Only a perforated pot is immersed in a special bowl with warm water for 40-80 minutes, the leaves should not be in the water.

Lighting

Lack of lighting can have a detrimental effect on the condition of orchid leaves. The light period for this species should be 12-14 hours, in winter it is necessary to provide illumination with a special phytolamp for plants or a fluorescent daylight lamp.

When growing an orchid on a south window during a period of pronounced solar activity, the plant is shaded with a special mesh, and when the flower is located on the north side, additional lighting is used. Finding phalaenopsis in the depths of the room has a beneficial effect on its condition, provided there is 12-14 hours of daylight. To avoid the one-sidedness of the plant, it is necessary to periodically turn it with the other side to the light.

Nutrition

One of the reasons why new leaves do not grow may be due to insufficient nutrition with potassium and phosphorus compounds. This is manifested in the appearance of yellowish and brown spots on the leaves. To maintain the plant, it is worth foliar feeding.

The nutrient solution is prepared according to the instructions on the package, but in a weaker concentration than with root dressing. Then a uniform spraying of each leaf of phalaenopsis is carried out. With this method, the solution does not burn or damage the roots, and nutrients are better absorbed through the leaves. But it should be remembered that an excessive amount of fertilizer causes serious harm.

Video “Mistakes in caring for orchids”

About the real experience of caring for orchids with bugs and the secrets of "resuscitation" of flowers, see this video.

Achieving growth in one month

If you have figured out which of the reasons does not allow orchid leaves to develop and grow, we begin to achieve their growth in one month.

Proper pruning and comfortable environment

Phalaenopsis orchids usually have two blooms throughout the year (in spring and autumn). Too young a plant should not be allowed to flower 2 times a year, especially if the repeat falls in the spring-summer season. As a rule, phalaenopsis at this time has a short peduncle with crowded flowers, and if it is not removed in a timely manner from a young plant, then the growth of new leaves will slow down for a long period.

After the orchid blooms, the peduncle is cut off to a dormant point, the yellowed part is removed. Then it is plentifully watered with water and transplanted into a larger pot. Filling in the new volume will encourage more leaves to grow.

If the plant had artificial stimulation of flowering or staining was carried out (usually in blue phalaenopsis), as well as after an illness, it takes a long time to restore vitality. Therefore, during this period, the plant freezes and leaf growth stops.

We create a comfortable environment for our pet by correcting mistakes:

• Under uncomfortable temperature conditions - pay attention to the location of the plant (window in the south or north), the seasonal period (temperature differences between day and night are not more than 5-6 ° C) and eliminate the shortcomings of the conditions of detention.
• If the irrigation regime is incorrect, inspect the root system and leaves. If there is a lack of moisture, saturate with water using a watering can, shower and immersion in liquid. But remember that too much water can be harmful.

• In the absence of sufficient lighting - provide additional illumination due to special lamps (phytolamps and fluorescent), avoid direct sunlight on the plants.
• With a lack of nutrients - carry out abundant foliar feeding. They should be periodically and intermittently, but with a sense of proportion.

Care and feeding

Phalaenopsis is recommended to be transplanted once every two years, as in a fresh substrate it receives the oxygen necessary for growth and development. Over time, the substrate becomes denser, so the air permeability deteriorates and the metabolism of the plant is disturbed, which can lead to wilting of the leaves and lack of flowering.

When planting an orchid, it is important to pay attention to the preparation of the substrate. Its main component is pine bark, which has good air permeability and moisture absorption. Pine bark is crushed to a size of 1-2 cm, then sphagnum peat and charcoal are added. Gently, without damaging the root system, the orchid is transplanted into a new substrate, and then watered abundantly. In these new favorable conditions, it grows better and prepares for a new flowering period.

The development of the root system and leaves of the orchid is favorably affected by timely feeding and fertilization. The bark of coniferous trees is used as the basis of the substrate for growing this type of flower, therefore it is recommended to fertilize with substances with a high nitrogen content. Potassium is involved in all metabolic processes of the flower. With its deficiency, the leaves turn yellow. It must be remembered that during the period of enhanced flowering, the plant needs top dressing with a high content of phosphorus, which regulates the processes of cell division, bud formation and seed formation.

biologist, houseplant collector, site editor (section houseplants)

Question: When is the right time to transplant phalaenopsis?

Answer: The question is often asked, is it necessary to transplant phalaenopsis immediately after purchase? A healthy plant will only need a transplant in two or three years, when the old substrate (bark) collapses. In this case, transplantation should be done with the maximum replacement of the old bark with a new one.

Another thing is if you purchased phalaenopsis at a markdown. Then you need to carefully examine the roots. If there is reason for excitement, then a transplant is necessary with the replacement of the substrate and the removal of diseased roots.

Question: What substrate is suitable for phalaenopsis?

Answer: Only the bark, you can cover the top layer of roots with sphagnum. Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic plant. In nature, it lives on tree trunks, while its roots are not immersed in the substrate, but are in a free state. The roots are wetted only by precipitation, regularly drying out. Phalaenopsis receives nutrition through rainwater, in which, as it flows down the leaves, nutrients dissolve (most often bird droppings). A substrate in the form of a bark is needed only to give the phalaenopsis a vertical stable position, the phalaenopsis will receive nutrients not from the substrate, but from the solution with which you will water the orchid. The bark allows air to freely flow to the roots, allows them to dry out regularly, which is very important.

Often companies that make plant substrates add other components to the orchid substrate. But in the orchid family there are epiphytic species, and semi-epiphytic, and species living on the ground. And each of them will require a different substrate recipe.

Question: What pot to choose for phalaenopsis?

Answer: The phalaenopsis pot should be

transparent.
Phalaenopsis roots, like leaves, are involved in the process of photosynthesis, i.e. help the plant to synthesize organic substances for growth.

• have drainage holes for easy drainage of water.
  The locking of the roots leads to fatal consequences for the phalaenopsis.

match in size.
If you are transplanting a healthy overgrown plant, then you need to take a pot of a slightly larger diameter. If diseased roots were removed during transplantation, then most likely a larger pot will not be needed. It makes no sense to plant phalaenopsis in a pot for growth, an increase in the volume of the substrate will not positively affect either the size of the flowers or the frequency of flowering.

Question: How to transplant phalaenopsis?

Answer: When transplanting phalaenopsis, one must be extremely careful, try to damage the roots as little as possible. We need to make sure that the transplant is really necessary. Prepare pre-boiled and cooled bark, a pot if another is needed, scissors for trimming diseased roots, sulfur for powder (if necessary). Healthy phalaenopsis should be shed before transplanting as raw roots are more flexible. However, if it is necessary to trim the damaged roots, then it is better to transplant the phalaenopsis with dry roots.

Carefully remove the phalaenopsis from the pot, shake off the old substrate as much as possible (it is better to remove the old bark completely, it is more moisture-intensive, and the substrate should dry out evenly), if the roots stick to a piece of bark, leave it, do not tear it off. Inspect the roots, cut out the bad ones, sprinkle the cut points with sulfur or crushed coal. Put some bark in the bottom of the pot. Drainage is not needed. The fraction of the bark should not be large, but not small, about 1.5x2 cm.

Place the phalaenopsis roots in a pot, start gradually adding fresh substrate. Leave the roots that do not fit in the pot free, as they easily rot if injured. These protruding roots must be soaked when watering. The top of the pot can be covered with sphagnum, but the sphagnum should not be constantly wet. After transplanting, it is better to postpone watering for 7-10 days, during which time the injured roots will dry out.

Question: Phalaenopsis leaves shrivel and wither, what's the problem?

Answer: If you notice that the phalaenopsis leaves have begun to wither, wrinkle, this means that there is a problem with the roots, they have ceased to supply water to the leaves in full. If this happened from a long drying of the substrate, then it is necessary to urgently soak the roots by immersing them in water for 10 minutes, spray the leaves, this will help restore turgor faster. If watering does not help, this means that all or most of the roots have died from systematic waterlogging or drying for too long. Then it will take resuscitation:

Remove the plant from the pot, despite the flowering, shake off the bark, inspect the roots. All living roots after soaking should become green, full and hard. If the roots remain gray or brown, they are dead and need to be cut off. Take scissors or secateurs, carefully cut off diseased roots, powder the cuts with sulfur or charcoal. If you had to cut off all the roots or most of them, then powder the bottom of the phalaenopsis (immediately under the leaves) with Kornevin, this substance will stimulate the phalaenopsis to quickly form new roots, wrap this place with wet sphagnum and place it in a pot, spray the leaves. After that, you need to place the plant in a greenhouse. Any suitable size container that has a transparent closing top can serve as a greenhouse. This can be an unused aquarium covered with plastic wrap on top, a cut-off 5-liter water bottle, a basin, etc. A plant placed in a greenhouse will not lose moisture. The greenhouse must be ventilated every two days, sometimes spraying the leaves.

Foliar top dressing once every 2 weeks will have a good effect. To do this, it is necessary to dilute a specialized fertilizer for orchids in a concentration 10 times less than for root dressing, and spray the resulting solution. It is necessary to ensure that the sphagnum is constantly wet (not very wet). The greenhouse should stand in a warm, bright place, since the leaves must photosynthesize and feed the plant. New roots will appear in a month or two. When they grow back, phalaenopsis is transplanted into the bark and gradually accustomed to the conditions of the room - usually not earlier than six months later. A full copy will have to wait about a year.

Question: There were spots on the leaves of phalaenopsis, what to do?

Answer: It should be noted right away that some varieties of phalaenopsis are variegated. Such spots have no relief (convexity, concavity), more or less evenly distributed over the leaf and throughout the plant.

But if suddenly a spot unusual for the plant appears on the leaf, this means that there is a problem. A black-brown spot on a phalaenopsis leaf may occur due to direct burn sunbeams. Such a spot in diameter is usually several centimeters, after transferring the plant to the shade it does not increase, it dries quickly. Help measures - remove phalaenopsis from direct sun, then normal care. Such a stain may fade a little over time, decrease in size, and, as a rule, does not need to be processed. Sometimes a sunburn spot is light and dry. Burns on the leaves can also appear after spraying the plant in the sun.

But there are spots of a different nature. They appear due to non-compliance with the temperature regime and the regime of irrigation, spraying. In humid, cool conditions and low ventilation fungal and bacterial rot develop. If the temperature in the room is below +18 degrees, then it is better to cancel spraying. When watering a plant, bathing it, you should try so that the leaves have time to dry before nightfall. Do not allow moisture to enter the point of growth (in the middle of the top sheet), this can cause rot in the middle. Rotting spots usually gradually increase in diameter, are black in color, and become wet. Help - changing the conditions of maintenance and care, transferring the plant to a brighter warm and ventilated room, removing the affected area of ​​the leaf, treating it with fungicides and bactericides (Sulfur, Fundazol, Fitosporin, Trichopolum). The tool after processing the diseased plant must be disinfected, do not put the affected phalaenopsis close to other plants in order to avoid transmission of infection. Usually several treatments are required. The plant can be considered healthy again if the affected area does not increase and no new spots appear.

Like many other plants, phalaenopsis is subject to attack by various sucking insects, the injections of which turn into wounds. This is first of all , spider mite and scale insect, may also occur aphids, mealybugs, thrips. The bite sites first acquire a yellowish color, then they can become dark. These spots are small in diameter, unevenly scattered over the leaves; wounds can be seen at the bite sites. Thrips lay their eggs on the underside of the leaf, brown dots and dashes appear on the upper side, which eventually become whitish. Help measures - identify the pest and treat with an acaricide - a tick preparation (Neoron, Agravertin, Fitoverm) or an insecticide - from insects (Aktara, Aktellik, Fitoverm), which will require repeated treatments.

Question: How to make phalaenopsis bloom?

Answer: Phalaenopsis can grow on a north window and under a fluorescent lamp, but often refuses to bloom. The best stimulus for flowering will be the rays of the sun. Optimum placement on the east or west windowsill, with some sunlight hitting the plant. Phalaenopsis can arrange a short period of rest in winter, when the length of daylight hours is reduced, transferred to a room with a night temperature of +15 ... +18 degrees, reduce watering. Usually for phalaenopsis, a daily temperature fluctuation of several degrees is quite enough. Phalaenopsis should be fed with special fertilizers for orchids. In the case of an active build-up of green mass and the absence of flowering, top dressing should be abandoned for a while.

Question: What to do with the peduncle after flowering, how to care for phalaenopsis after flowering?

Answer: There are no changes in care after flowering. The flower arrow is not recommended to be cut until it is dry. But even if you cut off the green arrow, the plant itself will not suffer.

When the flower arrow begins to dry, it is cut below the yellowing, re-blooming is possible from the remaining buds. But often the flower arrow is disposable, it is not worth waiting for 100% re-blooming on it. If the arrow is dry, then it must be carefully cut as close to the outlet as possible, the length of the hemp is not so important. The cut usually does not need to be processed, but it can be processed with brilliant green, sprinkled with charcoal, sulfur.

Question: How to propagate phalaenopsis?

Answer: Phalaenopsis at home reproduces vegetatively. But it should be noted, not as easy as other plants. The most painless way of reproduction - branch babes, which sometimes, for certain reasons, is formed on the peduncle instead of a flower. But it doesn't happen often. You can separate it after the formation of your own roots. The baby is grown in a wet sphagnum, in a greenhouse. The baby will become a full-fledged copy in about a year.

Sometimes phalaenopsis gives side baby. More often this happens after damage or death of the growth point (rot, mechanical damage). The baby is separated and grown in the same way.

There is another way of vegetative propagation - division of the mother plant. An instance with 6-10 leaves is cut across so that the top also has at least a few roots. The cut is dried for several days, treated with sulfur, coal, the upper part is planted in a mixture of sphagnum and bark, they try so that the cut does not touch the substrate. The bottom part should give side babies that separate as described above.

Seed propagation of phalaenopsis at home is almost impossible.

Question: Phalaenopsis leaves turn yellow, what's the problem?

Answer: If a only the bottom sheet turns yellow, and the rest remain green and elastic, then this is the natural death of the old leaf. Often, with the growth of a new leaf, the phalaenopsis sheds the lowest old leaf. The maximum number of leaves on a phalaenopsis can be 10-12 pieces, the minimum should be at least 3 leaves. If the plant does not grow new leaves, there are few of them, and it sheds the bottom leaf - the phalaenopsis is starving. During a famine, the main thing for any plant is to maintain a growth point, in the name of it, some parts of the plant (lower leaves, individual shoots) die, giving nutrients up.

So why might your plant be starving? First, from the lack of light. Then the process of photosynthesis cannot go on normally, the plant does not produce organic substances for its construction. Secondly, from the lack of macro- and microelements that come with fertilizers. If the plant is in a dark place, it is necessary to provide it with light. If phalaenopsis has not been fed for a long time, you need to start feeding.

If at the same time some leaves turn yellow, they begin to rot - the plant is poured. Yellowing in this case is extended to almost the entire sheet, not punctually. It is necessary to reduce watering, inspect the roots for rot. If necessary, take resuscitation measures (see above - resuscitation).

Extensive yellowing of several leaves c can also be caused by an excess of light. Sometimes this is accompanied at the same time by large brown spots on the leaves and the rosette of the phalaenopsis. This happens if the phalaenopsis is placed in direct sun without shading. It is necessary to rearrange it to a less lit place.

A chemical burn can also cause massive yellowing of the leaves if the phalaenopsis is watered with a very concentrated salt solution. Even one such treatment can cause the death of the plant.

Question: What do healthy phalaenopsis roots look like?

Answer: Phalaenopsis root is a thread as thick as horse hair, which is covered on top with a water-retaining braid. The total thickness of the root is approximately 0.5 cm. The roots filled with water are green with white strokes. If the roots are dry, the color becomes silvery. Dead roots become gray-brown or brown, empty inside, shriveled. If, after soaking for 10 minutes, the roots do not turn green (with white strokes), then they are dead.

Question: How to water phalaenopsis and with what water?

Answer: Phalaenopsis is best watered by immersion. The pot with phalaenopsis is placed in a container, the container is filled with water to the level of the beginning of the leaves, left in this position for several minutes (no more than 10), the pot is taken out of the water, the remaining water is allowed to drain from the drainage holes, put in a permanent place. The frequency of watering depends on environmental conditions (air humidity, temperature, etc.). Allow the roots to dry out between waterings and wait until the roots turn from green to silver.

Phalaenopsis can withstand light drying, but is afraid of overflow. When the roots are waterlogged, they are exposed to fungal and bacterial diseases. There is a golden rule: it is better to underfill than overfill. Water for irrigation must be settled, at room temperature or 2-3 degrees warmer, it is desirable that the water be soft, with a low calcium content. If tap water contains a lot of calcium, then it is better to take boiled water for irrigation. The water must be boiled for several minutes, allowed to cool completely and carefully drained from the sediment that has formed at the bottom of the kettle. It is not recommended to use water passed through an ion-exchange filter. You can use water passed through a carbon filter. Fertilizers are added to the water for irrigation according to the instructions. When watering, do not allow water to enter the center of the rosette of leaves, this can lead to decay of the growth point and its death.

Question: How long does phalaenopsis bloom?

Answer: The duration of flowering of phalaenopsis depends on the characteristics of the variety and the conditions of detention. Phalaenopsis usually blooms for 2-3 months, sometimes flowering lasts up to six months. The frequency of flowering may be due to the variety and conditions of detention. Subject to the conditions, phalaenopsis should be guaranteed to bloom at least once a year.

Question:How long does phalaenopsis live?

Answer: Phalaenopsis is a perennial plant. Its life expectancy in room conditions with proper care can be 7-10 years.

Question: What determines the size of the phalaenopsis, the size of the flowers and the height of the peduncle?

Answer: The size of the leaves, rosettes, flowers, the height of the peduncle in phalaenopsis are determined by the variety, with slight fluctuations depending on the conditions of detention. If you purchased a mini alenopsis, then it will never become a grande phalaenopsis. The number of leaves, the height of the plant itself may increase, but not by much, while the flowers will remain their original size.

Question: Why do Phalaenopsis buds and flowers fall off?

Answer: Phalaenopsis can lose buds and flowers from a sudden change in conditions. Often this happens after buying a plant, improper transportation. During flowering, do not allow the roots to dry out.

Question: Why do spots appear on phalaenopsis flowers?

Answer: There are varieties of phalaenopsis with spotted flowers. Spots of a different nature appear after moisture gets on the flowers. It is not recommended to spray these orchids by flowers. Often spots appear during transportation, especially white varieties suffer from this. Such flowers are not subject to restoration.

Looking at the photo of the Phalaenopsis orchid, few flower growers will remain indifferent to this spectacular flower. In addition, these plants are relatively unpretentious in care. However, they can also be affected by a dangerous disease or harmful insects. In this case, the life of the orchid depends on the correct treatment.

What conditions are required for the Phalaenopsis orchid

Most often, the poor health of an orchid is signaled by its leaves: they begin to turn yellow, wither, dry out. It doesn't always mean illness. Novice amateur flower growers are faced, rather, with a violation of the rules of care.

Orchid owners should be mindful of the natural aging of the flower. Phalaenopsis loses one or two lower leaves every year.

Required level of illumination

Phalaenopsis orchids do not tolerate direct sunlight, but they love good lighting. Therefore, the best place to place them will be the windowsill on the east or west side of the room.

On the south window, an orchid of this species must be shaded, moving away from the glass or covering it with a screen from a source of direct light.

Do not forget that proper growth and healthy development are possible with 12-15 hours of daylight. From mid-autumn and throughout the winter, install additional lighting over the orchids, for example, a phytolamp. This light source is the best option, it does not damage the leaves. The only rule is that the lamp should be no closer than 20 cm from the plant.

If the leaves have darkened, become soft and elongated, then this indicates a lack of light.

External factors: temperature and humidity in the room

Orchids are tropical flowers, they need warmth. For Phalaenopsis, you need to maintain the room temperature within 20–25 ° C. The minimum allowable for an orchid (and then in certain cases, for example, during a dormant period) is not lower than 12 ° C.

The ideal humidity level for this type of plant is 70–80%. It is difficult to achieve such an indicator in the entire room, and besides, it is not very useful for people. The best option would be to regularly air the room (but do it carefully, Phalaenopsis do not tolerate cold drafts) and increase the humidity in one of the following ways.

Proper watering

For a Phalaenopsis orchid, it is better to use water:

• rain;
• settled for at least a day;
• boiled;
• passed through a household filter.

If you wrap 10 g of peat in cheesecloth, dip this bag in 10 liters of water and leave for a day, this will soften the water.

Watering rules:

If the problem is clearly beyond acceptable limits, and is not related to aging or care errors, you will have to look for the cause in the disease and pests.

Video: about the rules for caring for orchids

Table: diseases and pests characteristic of Phalaenopsis orchids

Table: how to make a diagnosis by external signs

Phalaenopsis orchid disease control

Most often, the appearance of the Phalaenopsis orchid suffers due to improper care. If you notice this in a timely manner and begin to correct the situation, the plant will quickly get stronger and take on a healthy appearance. But if time is lost, then fungal, viral and bacterial diseases will attack the weakened flower, which can very quickly destroy the orchid.

The consequences of violating the rules of watering: why the leaves become lethargic and fall off

Phalaenopsis orchids are accustomed to high indoor humidity. Many novice flower growers try to compensate for the lack of moisture with frequent and plentiful watering. This is fundamentally wrong: in Phalaenopsis, from such an attitude, the leaves lose turgor and crumble.

If this happened during the hot season, do the following:

• wait for the substrate to dry and continue to water the flower every 2-3 days;
• maintain the required humidity;
• in the middle of the day, use a fan, placing it 2-3 m from the plants and turning it on at low power.

In winter, water Phalaenopsis no more than 2 times a week, and carry out ventilation by opening windows daily for 30 minutes. It is advisable to do this in not too windy weather.

Edema: what can cause the root system to rot

Low room temperature, abundant watering and water ingress on the leaf plate can lead to the development of edema on the leaves of Phalaenopsis. Because of this, over time, the roots begin to rot. In the cold season, keep orchid pots away from window sills, reduce watering, and remember to remove excess water from the pan.

Exposure to low temperatures: why dark spots appear

In winter, Phalaenopsis orchids need special care, as they are not cold-resistant. Keep the plant warm (at least 16°C) and regularly ventilate, avoid spraying. Otherwise, the leaves will be covered with dark spots of fungal origin.

If you bought a Phalaenopsis orchid from a store and brought it home in the fall and winter, you may run into another problem. The flower is hard to adapt in cold weather, its leaves are frostbitten and covered with white spots. Cut off the affected areas to healthy tissue and sprinkle the sections with crushed activated charcoal.

Fungal diseases: why rot or white bloom appear on the plant

Most often, we owe the development of fungal diseases on an orchid to improper watering, non-compliance with the temperature regime and excessive humidity. Most of all, Phalaenopsis is susceptible to powdery mildew, anthracnose, gray rot, and less often to rust.

Bacterial diseases: for what reason leaves turn yellow or darken

Of this type of disease, the Phalaenopsis orchid is most often affected by brown spotting. As soon as you notice yellowing, darkening or softening of the leaves, the appearance of ulcers with a sticky liquid, immediately cut out the infected areas completely. Grease the edges with iodine.

Viral diseases: is it possible to save the plant

Phalaenopsis orchids are not sufficiently resistant to viruses, and if they become infected, then it is very difficult to cure them. Most likely, the diseased plant will have to be destroyed, since there are no absolutely effective drugs and methods, and the virus can easily spread to neighboring flowers. If you see mosaic-like spots, circles and stripes on the leaves, show the orchid to a specialist who will confirm or refute the diagnosis.

Photo gallery: diseases characteristic of the Phalaenopsis orchid

Brown spot most often affects Phalaenopsis orchids
Rot plows the roots and neck of the orchid
Fungal diseases are dangerous for Phalaenopsis
With powdery mildew, the leaf is covered with a white coating

Video: care errors that cause orchid diseases

Phalaenopsis Pest Control Methods

Having purchased an orchid in a store, do not rush to immediately put it on the window, where other flowers are already located. On the plant and in the substrate may be insects, and often dangerous.

Phalaenopsis orchid pests can infect the plant itself or the root system.

Thrips: who leaves light paths

Since Phalaenopsis is thermophilic, it is most often grown indoors with a high temperature. Tiny thrips (their size is no more than 2.5 mm) also love warmth, so they are happy to settle on almost all types of orchids. The problem is that it is difficult to detect insects: they usually hide in the substrate. Their presence is evidenced by black dots and silvery paths on the leaves.

Thrips destroy the entire plant: juices are sucked out of the leaves and stems, larvae are laid in the roots.

Having found traces of thrips activity, carry out the following activities:

1. Treat the orchid, the substrate and all the plants that were nearby with a solution of Actellik or Fitoverm.
2. Repeat the treatment 3 times every 7-10 days.

Shields and false shields: where did the sticky spots come from

As soon as you see characteristic brown or yellowish tubercles on the stems and leaves of an orchid, you should know that the plant is affected by a false shield. Such plaques are not always immediately noticeable, but they are the "house" of an adult female insect.

The larva of the false shield crawls over the plant in search of a suitable place, after which it sticks to it, drawing out the juices, and eventually becomes covered with a brown film-shield.

Larvae and adults feed on the juices of the flower and leave behind a sticky liquid, which becomes a good environment for the development of fungi and rot.

Shchitovka is also often found on Phalaenopsis. Its shell cover is denser than that of the false shield, rounded-convex and covered with a wax coating. The effect on the plant is almost the same.

Ways to solve the problem

• wash the plant thoroughly with soapy water;
• remove the remaining pests;
• treat the plant and substrate with Aktellik or Fitoverma solution;
• spray again after 7-10 days;
• transplant the flower into a new substrate.

Mealybugs: what is the cause of withering leaves

Phalaenopsis orchids can be significantly affected by the mealybug as this pest is not easy to spot. A small white insect with an elongated body covered with fluff hides at the roots, bases of leaves and at their junctions. The worm sucks the juice from the plant, leaving behind a powdery liquid. You can definitely notice them when the leaves of the flower dry out.

What to do to get rid of the mealybug

• completely remove dry leaves and roots from the orchid;
• carefully examine all hidden areas of the plant, select all pests found using toothpicks;
• every day inspect the orchid for new worms;
• regularly wipe all affected areas with soapy water;
• treat the substrate 2-3 times at weekly intervals with Fitoverm;
• all month examine the orchid. If you do not find new individuals, then the problem is solved.

Whiteflies: why the leaves withered

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by tiny white butterflies themselves and their larvae. Due to their impact, the flower weakens, the leaves dry. Adults lay their larvae in roots and on leaves.

To fix the problem, you need:

• wash the orchid and substrate with soapy water;
• spray the plant with Fitoverma solution, repeat after a week.

Aphids: because of which it is difficult for the plant to breathe

The tiny insects themselves are not so much dangerous to the orchid as their excrement. The secretions cover the leaf with a sticky layer, blocking the plant's breathing and becoming a convenient environment for bacteria and fungi.

The remedy is as follows:

• wash the plant with soapy water;
• treat the plant and substrate with Fitoverma solution.

Ticks: who entangled the buds with cobwebs

An orchid can become infected with ticks both at home and in a greenhouse. There are 3 types of spider mites. In fact, they are almost identical and affect the plant in the same way: they make numerous punctures of the leaves, through which they suck out the juice. These traces are clearly visible on the leaf plates, which begin to dry, turn white and discolor. The buds are falling off.

Spider mite elimination

• collect all the ticks from the orchid by hand;
• thoroughly wash the flowerpot and the window sill under it;
• Treat the entire orchid and substrate with Fitoverma solution. Repeat treatment after a week.

Nematodes: what is the reason for stopping growth

Very small nematode worms no larger than 2 mm in size penetrate the stems and roots of the orchid, feed on its juices and poison the products of their vital activity. The orchid stops growing, rots.

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by both adults and whitefly larvae.
Traces of the mite cover the entire surface of the leaf
Mealybugs are not easy to spot between orchid leaves.
In the presence of nematodes, the Phalaenopsis orchid stops its growth
Due to the sticky secretions of aphids, the respiratory process is difficult in orchid leaves.
Thrips suck all the juices out of the orchid

Orchids are imported from tropical and subtropical regions of the world. These are hardy plants, they are able to overcome prolonged droughts, starvation, lack of attention, and at the same time can wither from excessive care. For several months, the plant can endure the expansion of the human "stupid" attitude towards itself.

But when he begins to show signs of ill health, get ready for a long rehabilitation period.

Phalaenopsis orchids are very popular with flower growers. They are very beautiful, among orchids they are considered the most unpretentious, their cultivation is possible even for inexperienced flower growers. But with gross mistakes in care, they begin to wither, and amateur beginners have a question about why the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid turn yellow and how to prevent it.

Yellowing can occur very quickly, so inspect plants at least every three to four days.

It is very important to correctly establish the cause of the painful condition of the orchid, otherwise you will not have time to save the exotic beauty.

One of the symptoms of the disease state of the orchid is considered to be. However, this is not always a sign of illness. Each plant begins to age over time. Often, yellowing of the lower leaves is just a sign of the natural aging of the orchid. Leaf renewal, although rare, is quite normal for this plant species. In some orchids, this happens once a year, in others - once in five years.

Natural non-dangerous causes

Naturally, the gradual loss of vitality in old leaves before they fall is manifested in the form of yellowing. If the orchid leaves turn yellow at the base, do not remove them. They dry up and separate on their own.

Stressful situations, such as transplanting, rearranging, moving, which led to changes in the conditions of detention, can also affect the condition and appearance of plants.

There is another non-dangerous reason for yellowing leaves in phalaenopsis orchids. Perhaps the pot has become too small for the plant, and it needs a transplant. A new flowerpot is chosen 2 cm wider, but no more. Otherwise, the substrate may dry out worse, and excessive moisture leads to decay of the root system.

In the case when not only the leaf, but also the stem turns yellow in an orchid, this indicates trouble. By the way, novice flower growers sometimes confuse the stem and the peduncle and ask why the stem of the flower turns yellow from top to bottom. If the leaves and roots of the orchid are healthy, the death of the peduncle does not mean the death of the whole plant. The peduncle must be cut to green tissue, and after a certain time a new one will begin to grow from the hemp. If this does not happen, the peduncle dries out completely and is removed. New flowering can be expected in a few months.

Over watering

This is the most common cause of yellowing leaves in orchids. The leaves become limp and lethargic, acquiring a yellow-brown color. Beginners take care of the plant too diligently, flooding it. A waterlogged substrate prevents air from entering the roots, causing them to rot. In addition, a waterlogged environment contributes to the infection of orchids with bacterial and fungal diseases.

Inexperienced flower growers judge the need for watering by the dried upper pieces of bark on the substrate. But the bark can dry out in a day, while the soil inside the pot will be wet for another week. The following signs indicate yellowing of the leaves due to excessive watering:

• Most of the leaves and shoots begin to turn yellow, and not just the lower ones.
• The leaves become moist and soft to the touch.
• Black spots form on the leaves, and sometimes on the trunk.
• Spots also appear on the roots, they darken and are almost invisible through the walls of a transparent pot.
• The buds turn yellow, dry, then fall off.
• The orchid scrolls in the pot and is easily removed from it.

If the orchid leaves turn yellow due to excess moisture, remove the orchid from the pot and inspect the root system. Atremove the affected areas of the roots and transplant the plant into a new substrate.

Overdrying the plant

If the lower leaves of the orchid have turned yellow, although the plant looks healthy, there are no weeping dark spots on the leaves, and there are signs of decay on the roots, then the likely cause of the loss of the aesthetic appearance of the plant is a lack of moisture.

Perhaps the overdrying of the orchid is due to improper watering from a watering can. Drainage removes water very quickly, and the roots do not have time to absorb it.

The plant is deficient in nutrients, and new leaves grow, taking them away from the old ones.

Correcting the situation is easy. It is enough to switch to watering by immersing in water for half an hour. In a week or two, the plant will return to normal. It is very convenient to control the degree of moisture content of the substrate in transparent pots.

Irrigation with hard water

If you water the flowers with hard water, then salinization of the soil occurs over time, which can be the cause of the appearance of yellow leaves in the orchid. In this case, replacing the soil will help. In the future, water the plant with tap water, half mixed with distilled water.

Excessive lighting

Phalaenopsis orchids prefer moderate light. They do not like the bright sun and can grow on a nightstand or table in the back of the room.

Direct sunlight adversely affects the condition of the plant. The stem and leaves turn yellow, dark spots and rough roughness appear, and the sun-burned areas of the leaves dry out.

It is not necessary to remove them, the healthy part of the leaf is quite viable and will continue to perform the functions of plant nutrition. Rearrange the orchid in partial shade or shade it.

Wrong top dressing

For orchids, both an excess of fertilizers and their lack are dangerous. Under natural conditions, they grow on trees, holding onto cracks in the bark with their roots. Plant debris accumulates in these cracks.

They turn over time into compost, from which plants obtain nutrients. Inexperienced flower growers fall into two extremes. Some feed their wards a couple of times a year, believing that under natural conditions, plants are content with the same small amount of nutrients.

Others, in overprotection of their pets, fertilize them weekly. In both cases, the result will be the same - the orchids will turn yellow leaves.

What needs to be done if the phalaenopsis leaves turn yellow due to improper feeding:

• With an excess of fertilizer, the plants are urgently transplanted into a new substrate. If it is not possible to do this immediately, then the root system will have to be washed with running water. This must be done within 15 minutes under a slight pressure of water.
• With a nutrient deficiency, plants are fed with special fertilizers for orchids. The initial doses of fertilizers should be half the recommended.

Fertilize once every two weeks, gradually increase the portion of fertilizer, bringing it to normal after three months.

Pests and fungal diseases

Damage to plants by pests and diseases leads to yellowing of buds, stems, leaves and their premature fall. It can be:

If you follow all the subtleties of caring for a phalaenopsis orchid, it will not be difficult for you to grow a healthy and beautifully flowering plant.