Repair old wooden windows on YouTube. Repair of old wooden windows – partial and major window restoration. How to replace glass in old windows

This can only be appreciated by a person who, over the course of many years of his life, has previously cleaned, painted, washed and filled the cracks in old frames with cotton wool. Often there was a need to repair old wooden windows with your own hands. Now there are not many houses left where there is no plastic. This is due to both a lack of funds and aesthetic considerations: many are convinced that wooden frames are more beautiful. Sometimes people avoid using plastic as a matter of principle, considering its impact harmful to health.

In any case, when the frames are framed with wood, they must be painted. And during operation - repair. This is not an easy matter and I must say, not so pleasant. Can only please The final stage when the transformed frame sparkles with fresh paint, like new!

Preparatory work

To make repairs as comfortable as possible, the frames must be removed from the windows and the glass removed.

Strong, not rotten frames are subject to repair, even if they are dry in places. The main thing is that the tree retains its structure. In order to repair and repaint the frame, you need to remove the old paint from it. This is the most unpleasant part of the job of turning an old, shabby and unsightly frame into beautiful window. Most convenient option work - align the frame, carefully remove the glazing beads and remove the glass.

Wash it off using various solutions that dissolve the paint, and then remove it.
Just scrape the frame with sharp objects or a spatula.
Heat the paint using construction equipment and remove it.

The author of this article has tried all three methods in practice, and with full responsibility I can say that the third method is the most effective. Washing paint doesn't do much. Everything is smeared, the absolute amount of paint is still there. In addition, the frames then have to be dried long time. If you remove paint with sharp objects, it will damage the wood.

The most effective, and most importantly, effective way: heat the paint and immediately remove it with a spatula or use a grinder.

If as a result of the work some amount of paint remains, it is evenly distributed over the surface. Almost all of it is absorbed into the wood, and besides, this is a very small part that is used for good: it protects the frames from fungus and moisture.

A construction hair dryer removes old paint quickly, safely and effectively

One of the Internet articles advises removing paint using a gas cylinder for camp stoves. It’s amazing how inventive Russian people are in finding ways to complicate simple things! There are also special construction hair dryers. Convenient, comfortable, most importantly – not dangerous! But no, you need to use a gas cylinder. And they also advise: make sure there are no children nearby. The construction hair dryer has three levels of heating, is lightweight, inexpensive, and working with it is a pleasure. The paint melts under the influence of temperature and is immediately removed with a spatula. The tree does not suffer, remaining intact. Prepare solvent and rags to remove paint from tools and wood from time to time.
Grinding devices. EShM - electric grinding machines are also inexpensive. For example, an Interskol brand machine can be purchased for 1000 -1200 rubles. They have a set of attachments; working with them is also comfortable and easy. True, there is more dust.

Preparing the frame for painting

Corners and chips are smoothed with a thin layer of putty

When the paint is completely removed, you need to sand it well using sandpaper. You can do this with your hands. If the amount of work is large, you can also use a grinder. Sandpaper is attached to the working part - and please, work with pleasure.

The sanded surface is inspected for cracks and chips, repaired as necessary with wood putty. It is applied in a thin layer and leveled with a spatula. The hardened putty is also sanded with fine sandpaper until smooth.

Apply putty only in a thin layer. Let it not immediately cover all the unevenness. Wait for it to dry (check the packaging for drying time). Only then apply another layer. If necessary, then a third one. Resist the temptation to solve the problem right away. The putty sealed with a thick layer will crack and fall off. The work will be in vain.

Silicone has a transparent texture, it is not visible on the glass, it seals cracks hermetically

Glass is inserted into the frames and glazing beads are secured. The gaps between the bead and the glass are sealed with window putty. Modern way insulation of wooden windows: construction gun and plumbing silicone. It is transparent, it is not visible on the glass, the cracks are sealed hermetically. You just need to practice to apply it carefully, in an even thin strip to the space between the glass and the glazing bead. If the first attempt is unsuccessful, silicone can be easily removed with a rag and solvent.

If the frames are new, the paint has only been removed, they are well sanded down to the wood, they can be varnished. The wood is first impregnated with special primers that protect the frames from rot, and then coated with a wood primer in order to obtain the desired shade. The varnish must be taken for external use. It's better to paint old frames oil paint.

Restoring and repairing old wooden windows with your own hands is an activity for the patient. But it allows, firstly, to save money, and secondly, to get great-looking windows that retain heat well. After all, along with painting, you can lay insulation, which guarantees the absence of drafts. The windows will be produced using the so-called “Swedish technology”.

Inspection and determination of the scope of work

You meticulously inspect the window sashes and frame, open and close them several times, see if there are any cracks and how big they are. Assess the condition of the wood: are there any rotten areas, if so, what are their sizes.

The first stage is dismantling and assessing the condition of the windows

The first step is to establish whether the affected areas can be restored or whether the rotten fragment requires complete replacement. If replacement is inevitable, there are only two options: if you know how to work with wood, you cut out the required part yourself; if you don’t, you order it from a carpenter. All other window defects can be eliminated by anyone with “straight” hands.

Tools and materials

Since we are repairing old windows, we will need to remove the old paint: restoration without this is almost impossible. For this you will need:

a hair dryer or a thick plastic bag, rags and 0.5 liters of pure kerosene;
spatulas, wide knife (shoe knife).

In the future, you will need to repair damage, align the frame and sashes, etc. The range of tools here is more extensive, but even if you buy them, it won’t cost you very much, and you can make them even smaller if you rent them.

We collect necessary tools

hacksaw, jigsaw, hacksaw blades;
plane, chisels, selector (if you have one - great);
drill and drill bits of different diameters;
dense wood for wedges and dowels;
drying oil for impregnation or ready-made primers;
wood putties;
rubber sealing cord;
new fittings: hinges, latches;
a large, preferably carpenter's square, building level, slope;
glazing beads and silicone sealant.

For impregnation, you may need either factory-made compounds and a brush, a metal vessel, drying oil, an electric stove, or heat gun.

Need some special tools and a large flat surface

AND the last stage The restoration will be stained. This stage is very important - the quality of the work depends on appearance and service life until the next repair.

set of brushes;
window paint or stain and varnish, if you want to preserve the natural look of wood.

The procedure for restoring wooden windows

It all starts with dismantling. The sashes are removed first, then the frame itself. Is it possible not to remove the window frame? It is possible only in one case, if it is in perfect condition: there is no damage to the wood, all angles are exactly 90 o and no defects. But the work will be more difficult. In all other cases, dismantling is complete.

The glass is carefully removed from the sashes, the old putty is cleaned off, and all the nails are removed. The fittings are removed from all parts: they must be replaced. Now the external flashings are carefully removed: the nails with which they were fastened are probably almost falling apart.

The first step is to remove the glass.

Removing paint

You can use a construction hair dryer, setting the temperature to 200-250 o C. It’s better not to use it any more: wood loses heat during high-temperature treatment. most their properties. For the same reason, it is undesirable to use a blowtorch: even without charring, you will disturb the structure of the wood and it will collapse faster.

Remove paint from the window by heating the surface in a small area. Bubbles quickly appear on the surface, and you need to pry them off with a wide knife, scraper or spatula. It is better to find an old spatula with a rounded blade: a new one often “cuts” into the wood, and then you will have to grind for a long time. In general, it is more convenient to work with a wide knife, which is used by shoemakers.

Restoration wooden door starts with removing old paint or varnish

The second method is chemical softening. There are modern compositions for softening paint, but how they affect the structure of wood is a question. You can use the old, proven method: treat with kerosene. You will need a large bag made of thick plastic film (necessarily whole, without a single hole), old cotton rags (they should not fade) and kerosene. It is undesirable to use other solvents - they again affect the structure of wood fibers.

Wrap the frame with strips of fabric and put it in a bag (its height should be enough to tie the neck). Pour out the kerosene and tie the bag tightly. After a day you can remove the paint. But do not take everything out at once - while they are processing one part, the paint on others will harden. They took out one part, tied the bag, and removed the paint. Let's move on to the next one.

With any chemical active drugs It's better to work with gloves

When removing paint in small depressions and cracks, you don’t have to remove the paint: there will be less need for puttying and leveling. But this is only if you paint the window. If you plan to varnish, you will have to do everything scrupulously. But for the first experience, it is better to process it under paint: easier and faster.

Aligning the frame

For leveling, you will need a fairly large, absolutely flat surface. This could be a table (but the surface must be flat), a workbench, a sheet of plywood laid on stools, etc.

First we align the frame. We lay and set the corners. They should be exactly 90 o. We inspect the contour: the slats should be even. At this stage, we remove the areas affected by rot or replace the completely rotten parts of the frame with freshly made ones. (How to treat a rotten area is written a little below).

Leveling and sorting out the frame

We check the planks in vertical and horizontal planes, remove the excess with a plane. We work in the corners with chisels. The result should be perfectly straight, even surfaces. We check the corners again, measure and align the diagonals, and fasten the frame at the corners with nails. Then we take the skin or grinder(tape) and process until smooth.

We restore the sashes

We disassemble the connections of the valves. They are assembled on dowels - small wooden pins round size. Windows that have lasted for decades must be replaced. It’s easier not to knock them out (you can do this too), but to drill them out with a drill of a smaller diameter. Then remove the residue and clean the hole for installing a new fastener.

If necessary, the doors can be completely disassembled into planks. Clean the joints, align the planks, cutting off all unnecessary parts with a plane, working on the corners where necessary. In general, put everything in order.

This is an old dowel. It is advisable to remove it and put a new one in its place.

The next stage is assembling the sashes. Fold the processed planks, measure the diagonals and angles. Now a tricky operation: you need to remove the strips, coat the grooves and joints with glue and install them back. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the sash does not warp. Having set the bar in place until the glue sets, set the corners and diagonals.

After assembly, we will install new dowels for greater reliability. Let's do them first. We take a core drill with an internal diameter of 5-7 mm. From a block dense wood We drill the cylinders across the fibers (precisely across them). These will be the dowels. The diameter of the stud should be slightly larger than the drilled hole on the frame (about 0.5 mm). This way it will “sit” tightly and hold the structure well.

Do not use planed chops instead of dowels: the window will have to be repaired again in a couple of years. Cut across the grain, they will keep their shape for at least 10 years.

Wedges are cut from a piece of oak or rowan. Their width is 5-7 mm: depending on the diameter of the prepared dowels, and their thickness is 1.5-2 mm. They are then driven along the fibers, wedging the pin and achieving excellent fixation.

If, as a result of reassembling the valves, the hole has become uneven, straighten it with a file, or perhaps with a drill. But try not to make it wider. Coat the seat with wood glue (it should be good quality), drive in the dowels. The glue fits well. Then use a screwdriver to make a groove along the fibers into which to insert the planed wedge and hammer it in. Cut off the excess sharp knife so that everything is smooth.

Wooden dowels securely fasten the sash parts together

So we change all connections, constantly monitoring the geometry of the valves. Once everything is assembled, the sashes should be fairly rigid, but do not wobble them too much: the glue is not yet dry.

After all operations, the sashes may be of different heights. We align them so that they are the same both inside and outside. Now we take the frame and place the sashes in it. They are definitely smaller than needed. To ensure they fit tightly, we glue strips of plywood of suitable thickness and width onto the frame using liquid nails.

All parts (and frame) are laid on flat surface, a load is placed on them. You can lay it on a flat floor, with several boards on top, and underneath them a solid load: about 100 kg. Leave to dry and level for two to three days.

After the glue has dried, we bring the frames to normal, where necessary, by sanding and making notches. We mark places for fastening the fittings and make recesses for them.

Installation of seal

How to install a seal in windows using Swedish technology and the shapes of these seals is described in detail in the video.

Impregnation

There are different ready-made impregnations. How to use them is described in the instructions. There is nothing complicated in the process: under certain conditions you need to apply the composition and wait until it dries. There can be several treatments, with one or different compositions.

But there are masters who are sure that the polymers included in the impregnations worsen thermal insulation properties wood. They work only and exclusively with drying oil. Moreover, there are two processing methods: cold and hot.

With the cold method, heated drying oil is applied with a brush to the frame and window sashes. Leave until completely absorbed and dry, when the surface becomes non-sticky to the touch. The treatment is repeated four times. This treatment guarantees the excellent condition of the wood and paint coating for 5 years. Afterwards you will have to repaint it.

Impregnation with drying oil is a great way to preserve wood

During hot processing, drying oil is heated in a vessel to high temperatures. This activity is a fire hazard - the drying oil can catch fire. Therefore, we first prepare a piece of tarpaulin, felt, etc., with which we can cover the vessel. It is better to heat using a heat gun or hot air from an electric stove (not on the stove, but above her): Sometimes it is necessary to quickly remove the heat source to avoid fire. That's why the fire is not suitable.

Dip the parts into drying oil heated to a boil for several minutes.

After some time, the drying oil begins to bubble: air and moisture come out. There is one important point: when bubbles are already starting to appear, it happens that the smell of drying oil intensifies sharply. You need to quickly remove the heat source. If you hesitate, the fumes will flare up, and a felt mat will come in handy. If you make it on time, it will pass without incident. After a few minutes, heating can be continued. When there are no more bubbles, you can saturate the parts.

The part is immersed in heated drying oil for 3-5 minutes. It’s convenient to work with a hook: you can hold it and pull it out conveniently. After taking it out, carefully place it in a clean place to dry. Do not handle parts with your hands. Even with mittens: hot drying oil will instantly saturate them and burn your hands. The burn will be serious: the temperature is about 130 o C.

Craftsmen say that after such treatment, the wood can even stand on the street for decades. If the paint is good, it will need updating no earlier than after 10-15 years. Like this.

We putty and sand it

Now the frames are rigid and are not afraid of anything. Now we putty and sand them. For significant damage, we use coarse putty with sawdust. For finishing thinner and softer. If you are going to paint the window White color, take white putty. They will not be visible through the paint.

The technique is simple: fill the cracks and crevices with putty, then remove the excess. Metal spatulas of small width are often used. But in some places it is more convenient to work with rubber ones: they are designed for grouting joints when laying tiles, but they are also convenient to work with putty.

Using technology will increase the speed of work

After the composition has dried, take a sandpaper (sanding machine) with medium grain and clean off the excess, if any. At the same time, go through the entire frame, bringing everything back to normal, leveling out the unevenness. After sandpaper with fine grain, everything is leveled to an ideal (as far as possible) state.

Coloring

You choose the type of paint yourself, based on your preferences. The only thing I can advise you to do is to take glossy or semi-gloss. They retain their color for a long time. This is especially true for white paints. Surfaces painted with matte white paint quickly turn gray: they have a porous structure, which gives them a “matte” appearance. These pores become clogged with microscopic dust particles, which give a grayish tint. Therefore, for perfectly white windows, take gloss or semi-gloss.

The first layer is a primer. This is one part paint diluted with two parts of a suitable solvent. After the primer has dried, you can apply the base paint. There will be several layers, so everything will be painted over.

Apply paint in thin layers in different directions

Do not use a lot of paint on your brush: there will be drips that are not easy to deal with. Dip, squeeze, rub well. You need to move from top to bottom without changing direction. This is the only way the layer will be even. Apply the first layer, moving the brush from left to right, the second - from top to bottom, and the third layer - from right to left.

Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. If after the first application of paint there are streaks and uneven spots, after the paint has dried, take sandpaper and smooth them out. Just don't wear it down to wood. Do the second layer more carefully, but even here you can still sand it a little. The third one should be without flaws. After the paint has dried, your self-restored window can be installed in place.

Glazing

Installing glass is not the most difficult task, but it is responsible. Prepare a transparent moisture-resistant and frost-resistant sealant. Coat the seat with it and insert the glass. On the other hand, they are pressed with glazing beads. They are also sanded, impregnated and painted. Then they coat the perimeter of the glass with sealant, press the glazing beads and secure them with small nails.

Replacing rotten sections of a wooden frame

If the area has rotted out, you can help the grief in two ways:

cover with special reinforced putty, recreating the required shape;
remove the damaged area by inserting a patch in its place.

Reliable way eliminating rot - cutting out the damaged area

The second option would be more correct from the point of view of durability: here it is possible to remove the entire infected area, ensuring that the rot will not spread further. The technique is simple. Cut out the affected area, taking some healthy wood. Cut out a fragment of exactly the same shape. Coat the joints with wood glue, insert the patch, level it, if necessary, fix it, and leave until the glue dries completely.

Afterwards you need to putty the seam, sand it and paint it. All. The window frame (or sash) has been restored.

But it is not always possible (or desire) to cut out a damaged piece of wood. Then you can use epoxy putty with reinforcing fiber. Once dry, it is hard enough to hold its shape.

First of all, we separate everything that can be removed. All the rot and rot. We blow off the dust where possible and get to healthy tree. If you plan to use the restored frame for a long time, treatment with antiseptic impregnations is necessary: to prevent, as far as possible, the spread of rot.

A rotten section of a window frame can be restored using putty with reinforcing fiber

Afterwards, the composition is applied to the damaged part with a spatula. This type of putty has a fairly thick consistency; any configuration can be sculpted. Give it a shape close to the desired one, but a little larger in size: after drying, you can sand it and level it out. It takes approximately a day to dry, but the exact time depends on the composition, temperature and humidity of the air. After sanding and leveling, all that remains is to paint the window. Then nothing will be noticeable at all.

Results

You don’t need any super abilities to repair and restore wooden windows yourself. What is needed are not the most complex tools, accuracy, patience and a fairly decent amount of time.

No one likes scary old wooden windows, disfigured by time. But can they be restored? After all, the appearance of wooden windows is better than plastic ones.

In practice, restoration of wooden windows is not common, since the restoration process is very labor-intensive and payment for the work is usually comparable to the cost of a new one plastic window. Therefore, if you want to provide your apartment with decent-looking wooden windows on a budget, it is better to be patient, have a minimum sufficient tool, and complete restoration work on one's own.

Tools and materials for restoration of wooden windows

hot air gun (construction hair dryer);
hard spatula 25-40mm wide;
a small hacksaw with a fine tooth (for cross-cutting wood);
small carpenter's miter box;
screwdriver or drill;
square;
bubble level;
drill for metal or wood with a diameter of 8mm;
beech dowels with a diameter of 8mm;
carpentry waterproof glue PVA;
carpentry clamps (the length of the clamp should allow you to clamp the transom or its fragment on the work table) in an amount of at least two;
hammer or mallet;
antiseptic;
acrylic primer deep penetration And acrylic paint, or drying oil and oil paint;
foam rollers 5.5 cm wide with a handle holder and a small bath;
a small sander or a piece of smooth wooden block and sandpaper of different grits - P40 (60), P100 (120);
carpentry (countersunk head) galvanized nails 20mm long;
wood screws 35-45mm long;
grinder with petal wheels, grit P40(60), P100(120);
wood putty;
glazing beads;
self-tapping screws 2.5x25 (head PZ1);
safety glasses, gloves, respirator.

You may need (depending on the required depth of restoration): a plane, another miter box (of a size that allows you to place the transom frame inside it), and carpenter's chisels.
Simple - if you don’t have the necessary tools and time, it will help you decorate your window

It is highly advisable to have unnecessary transoms of the same size in stock. If you are potentially considering the option of restoring wooden windows, and at the same time one of your neighbors is installing plastic windows, do not hesitate to select a few transoms in the most decent condition for yourself. Particular attention should be paid to external transoms; they are most susceptible to the aging process.

Initial stage of work

On initial stage restoration of wooden windows requires a thorough inspection of the transoms, window sills and frames. Some windows are better not to mess with. The easiest windows to restore are those made of hardwood boiled in drying oil. Most often, such windows are found in old houses. IN apartment buildings From the times of the USSR, wood is usually of lower quality, but such windows are significantly younger.

A typical view of an old wooden window in need of restoration.

Main problems

The main problems with old wooden windows are:

a large number of layers of paint, which causes a sloppy appearance;
loose fit of the transoms to the frame and to each other, the result is relatively free air circulation and very low thermal insulation qualities;
rotten sections of transoms and window frames;
window distortion;
difficult closing.

Refusal to restore old wooden windows is advisable if the windows are severely skewed, rotten areas are common, the wood is severely cracked in many places, etc. Most often, significant problems arise with the lower crossbars of external transoms, as well as in the places where the lower latches are installed. That is why it is highly advisable to have spare, unnecessary transoms of the same size in stock - you can get “spare parts” from them.

First of all, we determine how the glass is fixed. Most often these are glazing beads, sometimes putty is simply applied. The beads are attached with small nails, so they can be easily undermined with a strong knife, chisel or regular slotted screwdriver. When removing them, do not forget to hold the glass. We work carefully so that the glass does not crack.

Remove window putty with a knife or chisel. From time to time there will be small nails that keep the glass from falling out. They are easy to remove with pliers.

After removing all the glass, we proceed to removing the paint.

Removing old paint

When restoring, old paint from wooden windows should be completely removed. It's best to do this construction hairdryer(heat gun). Heat the paint with a hairdryer until bubbles appear. Without allowing it to cool, immediately remove the paint with a spatula. The use of special paint removers is not advisable. Removers emit a strong toxic odor and require a certain exposure time. After its application, the time required to soften the old paint is determined experimentally. Usually this is 5-25 minutes. If you start removing the paint earlier, it will not soften yet. If you are late, it will dry out again. In addition, removers remove paint layer by layer. That is, you will have to go through the same section several times. You can use a hairdryer to remove it right down to the wood (with a “reasonable” number of layers).

The process of removing old paint with a hot air gun.

Antique windows often have curved edges. A flat spatula is not suitable for cleaning them. If there are a lot of windows, it’s worth making a special stripping tool from a piece of sheet steel (the blade of the same spatula) to suit the configuration of your windows.
After the transoms, we peel off the paint from the frame and shutters (if any).

Assessing the suitability of transoms and frames, removing and repairing problem areas

Stripping the paint down to the wood will reveal everything hidden defects. There is no need to be afraid of them. Local cracking and small rotten areas can be repaired. The worst thing is if the wood has become completely (throughout its entire thickness) loose. Loose fragments must be replaced. It often happens that the most problem areas the bottom corners become - moisture accumulates in them. In very old windows in such places, entire pieces are sometimes completely “eaten away.” Repairing these particular areas of wooden windows is the most difficult.

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You should carefully inspect the bottom of the window frame. Especially at the edges (in the corners) and in the center. Usually you have to either cut out the rotten areas or dismantle the entire lower part. If there are no problems, you are lucky.

For high-quality restoration of transoms, it is advisable to disassemble them into separate parts. In the future they will have to be sanded; in the corners this is almost impossible to do if the transom is assembled. Disassembly is carried out by removing the metal corners attached to screws and drilling out the dowels with an 8mm drill.

A dowel is a wooden round rod glued to the corners of the joints.

After drilling out the dowels, the transom can be easily disassembled.

If the corners of the transoms are in order, there are no rotten areas, you don’t have to disassemble them.

We remove rotten areas with chisels and a hammer (mallet).

Removing the rotten area.

After removal, a section of the correct geometric shape should be obtained.

We prepare the area for gluing the liner.

We fill it by making an insert of the required size and shape. It is highly desirable that the liner be made of identical wood and have an overlap - a size with a margin in the direction in which it can be sanded (at least in the direction from the front plane of the transom). If there is a “donor” transom (or parts thereof), you should use it as a raw material.

Preparing the insert for gluing.

We install the liner with glue. Clamp with clamps.

We hold the tab under the pressure of the clamps until the glue dries.

After drying, drill through the liner and the transom with an 8mm drill, install the beech dowels with the same glue. The number of dowels must correspond to the size of the liner.

Long dowels are sold in construction hypermarkets in the form of round timber 8mm in diameter with longitudinal notches. The length is usually up to 900mm, they can simply be cut to the desired length.

After repairing problem areas of wooden windows, we sand these areas, removing the overlap. In this case, the liner will lie strictly flush (at the same level) with the surface of the transom.

Sand the tabs.

Sanding is best done with a grinder with variable speed rotation at a speed of about 3000 rpm with a flap wheel with grit P40 or P60. Coarse grain size is caused by paint residues and impregnation with drying oil, which is why the circle with finer grains becomes clogged very quickly.

Assembly, filling and sanding

After repairing problem areas of wooden windows, we antisepticize the cavities of the tongue-and-groove joints and dry them. Next, we connect the parts by applying moisture-resistant wood glue. Using a carpenter's square, we make sure that the angles are right. For better contact tenon with groove, clamp them with clamps. Let it dry. We strengthen the connection with wooden dowels, installing them with glue in place of the previously drilled ones.

Small irregularities can be smoothed out with wood putty. First, we clean the areas to be puttied with sandpaper, saturate them with primer, and dry them. Apply putty with a small spatula, pressing it intensively into the irregularities to be filled.

Puttying small irregularities.

The gaps at the ends of the parts and in the area of the liner (if its size turns out to be inaccurate) are best sealed as follows. We generously fill the gap with wood glue, then rub sawdust into it. After drying, we begin finishing sanding.

Transoms after polishing.

The fineness of the grinding abrasive depends on the condition of the transom. If there are paint residues or a weathered (darkened) layer, it is advisable to use a coarse P60 abrasive. It will ensure that the desired layer is removed. Next we apply P100(120). If in the end you want to get a surface close to glossy, we additionally grind it with a finer abrasive P180 (240).

The process of sanding wooden windows, especially removing the layer, is very dusty. It is impossible to perform it in a residential area. To some extent, the dust formation process can be leveled out construction vacuum cleaner, working in tandem with a power tool that has a dust removal pipe.

It is better to perform grinding in a non-residential area. For example, in a workshop or garage.

Frame and window sill

If Bottom part The wooden window frames are very rotten and need to be removed. To do this, we make a cut in the middle of the dismantled section of the frame and pry it with a small crowbar. A piece weakened by time can usually be dismantled easily. We remove all debris with a vacuum cleaner and soak it generously with a deeply penetrating primer.

We tidy up the section of the wall under the frame.

We examine the longitudinal edge of the window sill that is revealed to our eyes. If a void is visible underneath, blow it out with foam.
When restoring wooden windows new site Frames are easiest to make from two separate parts - the main one and an additional lining on top. For the first one, we take a 50mm thick board, plan it, cut it to size, and generously antiseptic it. Installation is carried out on adhesive composition. For example, Knauf Perlfix. The composition should be thick. We fill the installation site, place the workpiece on top and tap it with a mallet so that the new section of the frame is at the level we require.

After the glue hardens, we make holes with a diameter of 12-16mm and a depth of 5-10mm in several places along the length of the workpiece. Their location should be such that they are subsequently covered with an overlay on top. Then use a 10mm drill to drill them to the full depth. Using a 10mm drill bit, we make a hole through the glue into the body of the window sill part of the wall. We remove the sludge with a vacuum cleaner. We press the replaced part of the slave with window anchors with a diameter of 10 mm and the length required in your case (usually 130-160 mm).

It is convenient to make the top lining from a piece of lining, platband, thicknessing board up to 20mm thick. We close the outer transoms, press the outer longitudinal end (edge) of the lining against the transoms and fix the latter either with glue or with carpentry nails with a countersunk head.

Replaced lower frame section.

We peel off the old paint from the window sill. Most often, a longitudinal gap appears; it is best to embroider it and fill it with a glued wooden plank of the required thickness, driven with a mallet into this gap to the full depth.

If the window sills are in very poor condition, they will have to be replaced. The easiest way to make a new window sill for restored wooden windows is from furniture board thickness of at least 28mm. The ends of the window sill must be cut into the walls to a depth of at least 50mm. Therefore, you don’t have to worry about the quality of the cut in these places. In order to ensure a neat longitudinal cut, pick up a board of the required width in a construction hypermarket. We also install the window sill using an adhesive compound, but thanks to the cutting into the walls, window anchors will no longer be needed.

Geometry correction

Geometry correction is one of the most difficult types of wood window restoration work. Changing the geometry of one transom will require adjustments to the dimensions of adjacent transoms and addressing the issue of fit to the frame. Let's go back to the first photo of this article:

The window has a pronounced skew in right side. This can be clearly seen from the middle horizontal cross member. The difference was 3 cm - it is clearly visible to the naked eye.

Correction of the geometry in this case was carried out by shortening the right vertical of the upper transom by 3 cm. To do this, the transom needs to be disassembled, cut, then the tenon must be made again. corner connection tongue and groove The precise production of such a connection is the subject of a separate article. In the simplest case, we make cuts with a hacksaw, then use a chisel and a hammer (mallet) to remove the excess, constantly trying the tenon to the groove. Then we antisepticize, dry, apply glue, connect, and reinforce with a dowel.

We drill out dowels in the lower transoms, correct their shape in the form of a parallelogram into rectangles (using a square), and install new dowels. It is advisable to reinforce all transoms with metal corners secured with small self-tapping screws. They need to be installed on the invisible side of the transoms.

After correcting the geometry, there is no more distortion.

It is not uncommon, as in this case, that when the lower part of the frame is replaced, a gap appears under the lower transoms. It cannot always be eliminated when replacing the lower part of the frame. We are increasing the height of the transom.

Transom extension.

Extending the transom is done by gluing a block of slightly greater thickness and width (so that there is an overlap) than the gap. We attach the block with self-tapping screws to the glue. After drying, we turn out the screws, drill out the holes from under them with an 8mm drill and install dowels on the glue. Then we sand off the overlap.

After building up, we sand it so that everything is level.

We perform the final adjustment of the height of the transom with a plane, constantly trying the transom in its place. In the same way (if necessary), you can increase the width and also eliminate the rather wide oblique gap.

After fitting, use a small bubble level to check that the installation is correct.

Transoms with corrected geometry are installed level.

Cleaning the fittings, preparing for painting

When restoring antique windows, trying to replace the fittings will most likely fail. The hinges, latches and handles of those times are very different from what is now on store shelves. To some extent, this also applies to windows from the times of the USSR.

On the left is a restored latch from the 19th century, on the right is a modern one.

Problems can also arise due to missing locks on the shutters - they have not been produced for a long time. In this case, you can combine a padlock pad with a hook.

For shutters, it is not advisable to use just hooks or latches - they are not reliable enough. The locking mechanism must be such that it cannot be pryed open with a knife from the outside.

To remove paint from the fittings, place it on a lit gas burner.

Burning metal fittings to remove old paint.

Heating old paint with an open flame will eventually lead to a moderate ignition - this process must be carried out under constant supervision!

Old paint ignites when heated.

We carry out firing until the paint is completely charred, after which we remove the fittings with pliers or pliers and throw them into metal container With cold water. After cooling, charred paint residues can be easily removed with a steel wool dishwasher.

After washing, immediately dry the fittings with a hairdryer; it is advisable to rinse them with a solvent (to avoid rusting).
Preparing the fittings for painting involves priming all metal elements with acetone-based acrylic enamel from a spray can.

If metal elements If you do not cover it with non-water-based enamel, then when painting with water-soluble paints, rust will appear very soon.

We prime wooden surfaces with a deep penetration acrylic primer - for acrylic paint, or with drying oil for oil paint. It should be noted here that drying oil priming and oil paint coating require a long drying time. Therefore, it is more advisable to focus on the acrylic version. Dries quickly and has water base(non-toxic), odorless.

Glazing

We clean the glass from traces of putty and other contaminants. We carry out all work wearing strong gloves to avoid cuts. When dismantling and washing, it is likely that it will not be possible to keep all the glass intact. It is better not to throw away large fragments immediately; they can be useful for cutting out glass in vents.

Glass cutting.

We will install the glass using glazing beads and galvanized carpentry nails 20mm long. Using a miter box and a fine-toothed hacksaw, we cut pre-antiseptic, primed and painted glazing beads in two layers.

Cutting glazing beads in a miter box.

We apply acrylic sealant to the transom around the perimeter of the glass. We apply the glass, carefully pressing it along the perimeter, making sure that the pressure on the sealant is uniform along the entire perimeter. This will ensure a tight seal. Then we nail the glazing beads. If they crack at the same time, you will have to do preliminary drilling with a 1.5mm drill bit. The pitch of the nails is 10-15cm. We fill the cracks in the corners of the beads with sealant. After drying, cut off the excess that appears with a wet knife.

We install glass.

The nail heads, if desired, can be tinted with a cotton swab.

Final stage

At the final stage of restoration of wooden windows, we paint in at least two layers (usually three) using a foam roller. In hard-to-reach places (corners) you can use a small brush. After drying, install the handles and latches on small screws.

Sealing of transom junctions is carried out by gluing elastic self-adhesive seals to the window frame and window frames. The thickness of the seal is selected according to location.

All connections must be sealed.

It is advisable to pay attention (if necessary) to slopes.

We putty the slopes.

We return the shutters (if there were any) to their place.

Ancient windows were often equipped with shutters. They look interesting in the interior. Restoring shutters is similar to the process described above.

All that remains is to wipe the glass, and your restored wooden window has found a second life.

New PVC double-glazed windows are replacing old wooden structures, but not all owners are in a hurry to install them. After all, in addition to the many advantages of plastic, artificial material, has many disadvantages. Therefore, repairs and restoration of wooden windows aimed at extending their service life are still relevant. By applying certain technologies and using the necessary tools and materials, all work can be done independently.

Wooden windows – is it worth restoring?

Wooden windows, even if they are old Stalinist ones, have a number of advantages, which include:

high performance and environmental characteristics of natural materials;
the favorable microclimate created by them indoors, because wood has a unique structure that allows it to “breathe”;
low thermal conductivity, which is very beneficial in terms of energy saving;
long service life, since wood is a durable and easily repairable material;
attractive appearance, so they fit well into any interior.

In addition, it should be noted that the cost of restoring old window systems lower than the cost of new double-glazed windows. And even a novice master can carry out all the work. The only difficulty of the procedure is that it takes a lot of time, especially if the house or apartment has many windows.

The restoration is carried out in several stages, starting with inconspicuous elements located in the back room. This will allow you to gain the necessary experience and better repair the remaining windows.

Removal of old structures and removal of paintwork

Dismantling work is carried out in the following sequence:

The first step is to remove the glass so that it remains intact until reinstallation. Carefully remove the nails and glazing beads by prying them off with a handy tool. If putty was used, knock it out with a chisel, being careful not to use excessive force and not damage the glass.
Window frames are dismantled. If difficulties arise, then remove them from the canopies, having first unscrewed the screws holding them. As a last resort, the screws are drilled out with a metal drill of a suitable diameter.
Removal of window frames is carried out as necessary - when they have completely fallen into disrepair or need restoration.

Frames are cleaned of paint by choosing one of the most common methods - thermal or chemical. Each case has its own characteristics. The first one will require a hair dryer. The process itself is simple and is carried out in the following sequence:

painted surfaces are heated;
after waiting until the old paint begins to swell and becomes softer, remove it with a spatula;
Finally, the entire structure is cleaned with sandpaper.

At chemical method use special means– washing, carrying out work in the following order:

the substance is applied to the painted surface;
then the treated area is covered with plastic film;
after waiting one or two hours, it is removed and the dissolved paint is removed with a spatula;
if necessary, the procedure is repeated again.

Since the wash is very toxic, all operations are carried out in a well-ventilated area, always using personal protective equipment.

Restoration work

After removing the paint, they begin repairing the frames, which is carried out in several stages:

The prepared structures are laid on flat wooden boards made from plywood or chipboard.
Check the geometry of frames and individual sashes. The easiest way is to measure the diagonals, if the values match, then everything is in order.
The frames are fixed by driving nails around them around the perimeter.
Drill out the old dowels. To make the hole neat, take a drill slightly larger in diameter than the size of the rods themselves.
New dowels are prepared from well-dried and not cracked wood using a core drill, being sure to choose a direction across the grain. In this case, their diameter should exceed the size of the mounting hole by 0.6-0.7 mm.
The frame is completely disassembled, and all joints are coated with wood glue.
The parts are collected in reverse order and placed in a template on the shield. In this case, be sure to check the equality of the diagonals and, if necessary, trim them.
Pins, lubricated liquid nails, hammer into the prepared holes using a mallet. Or an ordinary hammer, but through a subsidence made of a wooden block.

Any chips or cracks on the surface of the frames are repaired with putty designed for working with wood. Fill the holes left by old screws and nails. If the frame will be varnished, then the putty is selected to match the color of the wood.

They check the quarters under the vents and sashes. Existing cracks are eliminated with liquid nails. If the sash enters the landing frames with force, then the excess wood is cut off with a chisel. After adjustment, all surfaces are treated with sandpaper, trying to obtain the smoothest possible base. Finally, the wooden elements are covered protective impregnation, which needs to be rubbed in. The procedure is carried out in two steps.

Restore in the same way window boxes. They are also cleaned, puttied, processed protective composition and paint.

Painting and installation of new fittings

After assembling the frames, the next step is to apply the paint coating. The appearance and service life of the windows directly depends on how well it is done. Painting is done as follows:

the surface of the frames is treated with fine sandpaper;
clean from dust;
in two stages they are covered with a layer of primer, which improves adhesion and reduces material consumption;
prepare varnish or paint, for which, pour into a small container, mix, bring to the desired consistency;
To prevent the formation of smudges, the paint is applied with a brush in two layers, but for some types of varnish it is better to use a paint swab.

All that remains is to install new fittings and glass. First of all, insulation is installed using Swedish technology. The essence of the method is to cut a groove around the perimeter of the frame with a depth of 1 cm. It is filled with tubular silicone seal, whose service life is 20 years. The “tail” of the tape is inserted into the previously prepared groove and, using a plastic spatula or a special device, it is recessed to the base.

Swedish technologies make it possible to provide indoor high level heat and sound insulation.

Metal corners are installed, which will give the structure greater strength, and canopies. Before screwing in new screws, to prevent the wood from cracking, holes are pre-drilled for them. When attaching the sashes, use a level. The more accurately they are set, the easier it is to open and the fewer gaps there are. Proceed in the same way when installing vents.

Before installing the glass, all corners of the quarters are filled silicone sealant and carefully place them in place. Then the glazing beads are attached. After waiting for the seal to harden, install the latches, handles, and other fittings. That's it for do-it-yourself window repairs wooden frames completed. As you can see, there are no particular difficulties in the work; the only thing you should pay attention to is accuracy and compliance with the above recommendations.

A variety of furnishings and household items made from wood today are considered simply an environmental luxury. After all, no matter how technology develops, natural wood remains in special esteem among fans of a healthy lifestyle. If you have a wooden house or cottage with wooden windows, then you need special care behind the wood.

Wooden windows, of course, have the most beneficial effect on the overall health of residents. However, years pass, and under the influence of precipitation and temperature changes they become unusable, so after the next wintering it is necessary to carefully examine the condition of all the windows in the house. If cracks, wood deformation, fungus, or simply lost appearance are noticeable, then you should begin to repair and restore them.

Advantages of wooden window frames and reasons for their repair

The main positive aspects for installing wooden window frames are:

possibility of changing colors and individual decoration;
high thermal insulation;
durability of use with proper care;
sophistication of appearance;
excellent breathability;
preventing condensation;
natural ecological pure material manufacturing.

The main prerequisites for starting the repair of wooden window frames may be:

the formation of a fungus that decomposes wood, destruction and deformation of the material;
air leakage through cracks and lack of tightness.

If there is at least one of the factors requiring the restoration of wooden frames, it is necessary to decide how the repairs will be carried out independently and at what time. The repair can be simple and will not affect the functionality of the window in any way. Often this is just painting wooden frames, which does not involve a lot of money and effort.

It is possible to carry out more complex repairs, which depend on the degree of destruction of wood, metal fittings and glass. According to the principle of carrying out such repairs, it is also not particularly difficult. However, you should prepare for it more carefully in terms of procurement necessary materials and having more free time.

Simple DIY repair of wooden windows

For liquidation small area frame affected by fungus, all work should be carried out in stages and for clarity, use a photo example of restoring such a wooden window:

Determination of the location of the lesion. We take a screwdriver and press on the affected areas - if the wood under the screwdriver is fragile and falls through, then this indicates that the affected area needs to be replaced.
Removal of the affected area. Carefully cut off all affected areas.
Ventilation. The cut area must be ventilated and dried well; here it is possible to use equipment with heat blowing.
Coating. First as a hardener, and then as a preservative.
Puttying. We apply the putty several times, layer by layer, allowing each layer to dry first.
Coloring. After the materials have completely dried, we paint the wooden frame.

Detailed technology for repairing wooden windows

Basically, old window frames can be identified by the following external features:

rotten fragments of window frames and transoms;
the presence of gaps between transoms and frames;
sloppy appearance due to many layers of old paint;
lack of tightness and difficulty closing;
sloping windows.

The cost of repairing old wooden windows consists mainly of the cost of tools and materials used. Although the repair itself is not difficult, it can take a lot of time. Moreover, start repair work It’s better in warm sunny weather, because this is the optimal mode for any wood.

Required materials:

primer;
paint or varnish;
metal fittings;
drying oil;
glass;
putty.

Required tools:

paint brushes;
sandpaper;
shoe knife;
chisels;
construction hair dryer;
Grinder;
putty knife.

Let's move on to recovery:

First, inspect the windows as a whole and carefully each one individually. The condition of the frames may vary depending on many factors.
It's easier to just throw away individual windows and replace them, but there are always others that you can work on.
Please pay Special attention on what the glass is fixed with: putty or glazing beads.
The sashes should be removed from the awnings, and the putty should be removed with a chisel or the glazing beads should be carefully removed so that the glass does not burst.
It is necessary to remove the glass and remove all metal fittings, as well as nails and corners.

Removing old paint

There are two most common methods:

Mechanical cleaning method. After removing the glass, we will begin cleaning the old wooden windows from all paint, which is recommended to be removed completely. The best way removing old paint - with a hair dryer, which allows you to quickly and thoroughly clean the wood of old paint:

heat the device until swelling appears;
We clean off the swollen paint with a spatula immediately so that it does not have time to cool.

Chemical cleaning method. Kerosene and polyethylene are used here:

we wrap the disassembled frame in an old cloth soaked in kerosene and put it in a plastic bag;
leave it alone for a couple of days;
after two days, we take out each plank in turn and clean it of the old paint;
the paint should soften and now easily come off the wooden base (the procedure must be carried out quickly, since after the kerosene evaporates, the paint will take on its original appearance, which is the main disadvantage of this method);
the process of kerosene evaporation has a negative effect on the human body and is a fire hazard, so it is necessary to purchase a mask and rubber gloves, and carry out the cleaning process in the fresh air.

In both cases, we clean off small remnants of unremoved paint with sandpaper and a grinder.

Restoration of wooden windows after their deformation

Deformation of wooden window frames is expressed in the form of curvature of the sashes or the entire frame. This is usually noticeable after installing the glass: if it fits into the recess, it hangs in the corners. And, conversely, if the corners coincide, then a gap is formed in the middle.

A press can be used to align the sashes if the window is dismantled and disassembled. If the window was not removed, but it is without glass, then a block is inserted in the area with the bend, and the window is tightly closed and secured with screws or latches. This design should remain in this position for three days, and then the block should be replaced with a thicker one to even out the bend.

During the leveling process, cracks may appear. Cracks are corrected using PVA glue, but first the crack is covered with tape, and then the glue is poured in and allowed to dry. The adhesive tape is removed, the gluing area is cleaned, and then the frame is puttied and painted.

Replacing rotten fragments of a window frame

Damaged areas should be replaced as follows:

On the rotten fragment of the frame, old paint and loose wood are removed.
Putty is applied to the cleaned frame so that cracks and crevices are filled, with reserve for sanding.
It is better to leave such a frame for at least a day to dry, and then level the sides of the frame by sanding.
In old frames, damage is often observed in the lower corners, which occurs due to water accumulation, and over many years of use the wood becomes completely loose and practically cannot be restored, so first of all, the frame must be completely disassembled.
The rotten segments are removed with a hammer and chisel, so as to make a rectangular recess.
We prepare an insert of the same size and shape as the recess. It is advisable that the insert be made of the same material and have an allowance. It is needed to connect the insert to the frame during grinding.
Pour glue into the recess and insert the insert.
Press with a tripod and leave to dry.
After this, we drill through the transom with the insert and insert the trunnions with glue.
There should be enough trunnions to evenly distribute along the length of the insert. Trunnions can be purchased at hardware store.
At the end of the work, we grind the joints, making the surface of the frame uniform.
It is preferable to grind with a grinding machine with a coarse-grained wheel, because a fine-grained wheel quickly becomes clogged with old paint and drying oil.

Installation, puttying, sanding of wooden windows

Preparing a wooden frame before impregnation:

After repairing the damaged fragments of wooden windows, we treat the joints with an antiseptic and let them dry.
Lubricate with wood glue and close.
We check the correctness of the connection with a triangle with an angle of ninety degrees.
For reliability and strength of closure, we clamp it in a tripod.
We are waiting for it to dry.
To prevent our closure from falling apart, we use pins to be sure, placing them on glue.
Use sandpaper to rub the fragments under the putty.
To smooth out small cracks with putty, you first need to sand the smoothed fragments, wet them with a primer, dry them, and when applying the putty, rub it deeper into the cracks.
Gaps in the end parts of the sash can be eliminated by filling them with a mixture of wood glue and sawdust.
Dry and sand with sandpaper.
Finish grinding with a grinding machine until smooth surface, but since the procedure for sanding a wooden window is a very dusty process, it is better to carry it out in a mask and outside.

Impregnation with drying oil

In order for repaired wooden windows to last longer, they need to be oiled. Modern drying oil differs from the one that was used in Soviet times. Real drying oil was prepared from high-quality natural oils: hemp and linseed.

A wooden window is coated with drying oil several times. The first layer is impregnating, the others are final. Between applying layers, you need to let the frame dry, and if the drying oil does not stick to the frame when you touch it with your hand, it means it has been absorbed.

There is an old method of processing with boiling drying oil, proven over the years. It consists in the fact that the drying oil is heated to the boiling point and parts of the disassembled frame are lowered into it for five minutes, and then these parts are removed and dried. This impregnation with hot drying oil gives the wood greater strength and durability.

However, this processing method is very fire hazardous, and you can also get burns. Therefore, this procedure should be carried out with extreme caution and compliance with safety regulations. Also, when working with such material, you need to acquire special accessories and clothing.

Stain and varnish coating

When the frames are cleared of old paint and the condition of the frame is in good condition, you can leave the natural color of the wood. To do this, it is necessary to cover the frame with stain to further emphasize the naturalness of wooden windows. Before covering the frame with stain, you need to try applying the tone to an unnecessary fragment of the board to adjust the color.

Depending on the number of layers, you can make the color paler or brighter. The stain makes the wood resistant to fungus and ultraviolet radiation and a more presentable appearance. After treatment with stain, varnishing is carried out, when a light varnish is applied to the dried frames, which will not affect the color of the frame with stain.

Glass installation

Precise installation of the glass ensures that no wind will pass through the small gaps between the frame and the glass. The glass is “planted” on silicone glue, which is poured along the entire length of the recess. The glass itself is firmly installed and secured with glazing beads.

We remove the glue that has come out from under the glass with a cloth soaked in vinegar, and if it gets on the studs, you should not remove it, as it will better serve as an insulator against rust and will dry on its own within a day. Glass can also be installed on putty without glazing beads, which you can buy ready-made at a hardware store, or you can prepare it yourself by mixing drying oil with chalk.

Painting and insulating wooden windows

Before you paint the windows, you need to decide on their external material coverings. If after the repair the joints are visible, it is better to open them with paint. If the color of the frame is uniform and correction has been made with stain, varnish it.

Use acrylic or oil paint: acrylic paint dries quickly, while oil paint will last longer. If the paint has thickened, it is diluted, because thick paint creates drips. There should be two or three layers, where the first layer is an impregnation and should dry well, and then apply a couple more layers of paint.

To seal and insulate wooden windows, foam seals and rubber gaskets are used. Foam rubber sticks to double-sided tape, but it's not very reliable option. The width of any seal is selected at the time of pasting the window and adjusted as necessary.

Repair of wooden window frames using Swedish technology

The essence of this technology is that a recess is determined in the sash. A specific silicone tubular seal is placed in it. This seal can withstand both high temperatures, and low at warranty period at twenty years old.

The final stage of repairing wooden windows is installing latches and handles. They are secured with small self-tapping screws. After this, the new window is installed in its usual place.

Repairing wooden windows is not that difficult, and if you have the skills to use the above-mentioned tool and a great desire to do it yourself, then you can create a new, modern one from an old hopeless window. If the repair of wooden windows was carried out in accordance with step by step instructions and with soul, then the new windows will serve for many more years, creating mood, warmth and comfort. Frame decoration can be made from additional wooden elements or decorate with various patterns.

Video tutorial on repairing wooden windows

Detailed instructions and tips for painting wooden window frames are available in the video: