Many homeowners, planning a thorough apartment renovation, decide on redevelopment by equipping an opening in the load-bearing wall. Such a need may arise whether you decide to increase the size of the bathroom, combine the kitchen with the living room or turn the apartment into a studio. For residents of panel high-rise buildings, opening openings in load-bearing walls is not only a problem from the point of view of attractive design. Redevelopment will require a competent technical approach, coordination with utilities, obtaining permits and following hole punching technology. In this article, we will look at how to make and legalize an opening in a load-bearing wall.
A load-bearing wall is a wall that supports the floors. Design panel house suggests the presence of such blocks as vertical support for the slabs. Such dismantling without installing supporting mechanisms, the slabs on top will crack, as a result of which cracks will go along the floor and walls of the apartment above you. If the problem is not eliminated in time, the building may collapse.
As you can see, the main walls are extremely important element in the structure of the whole house. You can determine their location of these thanks to the housing plan, which is indicated in the data sheet. You can familiarize yourself with the scheme at the Bureau of Technical Inventory or at the Housing Office. On the apartment diagram, the main partitions will be highlighted with thick lines.
If you do not have access to necessary documents, you can try to define such a wall yourself. Pay attention to the thickness - as a rule, bearing plates are wider. Almost all load-bearing blocks are located at the junction of apartments and at the junction of an apartment and a flight of stairs.
If you are not sure whether this wall is solid or ordinary, remember: expanding the opening in the load-bearing wall in any case will require a special permit, and the specialists from the Housing Inspectorate who will issue it will provide an explanation on this issue.
Is an opening allowed?
You can make an opening in many cases. Often, apartment owners hear a refusal. There are several reasons for the decision:
- Outdated load-bearing structures of the entire building. The fact is that every house has its own age, and if yours is over 20 years old, and overhaul has never been made, then making an opening in the load-bearing wall of the house is fraught with negative consequences.
- The door in the load-bearing wall on the floor above, below will make it impossible to redevelop your apartment. It is important to pay attention to the location of such holes - they should not be exactly on top of each other.
- Another reason for the refusal is the number of storeys of the apartment. There is maximum pressure on the apartments on the first and second floors, therefore, here the probability of obtaining permission to cut a hole is minimal.
- The presence of construction defects. In houses handed over with violations of construction technology, there are discrepancies interpanel seams, gaps between floors and blocks and other defects. In such cases, you will either receive a categorical refusal, or require additional reinforcement of the wall.
- House wall material. In houses with brick walls getting permission to punch a hole is easier than in panel or monolithic buildings.
Remember: before proceeding with redevelopment, it is necessary to coordinate the opening in the load-bearing wall.
A number of documents and certificates will be required, but it is better to receive them immediately than to experience anxiety after. The Housing Inspectorate, upon revealing an inconsistent redevelopment, has every right to issue you a fine of 3 thousand rubles. The fine is small, but in addition to it, you will still be required to obtain permission. If, according to the results of the check, the cut-out doors in the bearing wall turn out to be in violation, you will be forced to lay a hole, as a result of which all your repair work will be meaningless.
An apartment where there are unauthorized changes cannot be officially sold.
Can it be demolished entirely?
The demolition of the capital partition is definitely not possible and not one specialist will give permission for this. The complete dismantling of the supporting structures is fraught with the collapse of the ceiling tiles.
What will be required
To arrange an opening, you need:
- design documents. This item refers to the restructuring plan made by the design engineer. To make a rework plan, you must contact the design institute. Even more good option will be an appeal to the design department of the same construction company that was engaged in the construction of the house. After the engineer has determined whether the housing conversion is possible and in what form, he will draw up the final plan and issue a package of design documents (resolution on bearing capacity walls and ceilings, floor plan, where places for demolition and construction of partitions will be marked, definition structural elements affecting the method of strengthening the opening);
- statement. The application is written in the housing inspection by you personally on a special form;
- documents confirming the ownership of the apartment. The types of such documents vary depending on the form of obtaining housing (privatization, inheritance, court decision, and so on). In any case, you must have a copy of the certificate of ownership of housing, certified by the BTI of the city;
- technical conclusion on the condition of the building and the possibility of arranging the opening (issued at the design institute);
- permission for redevelopment from the owners of the apartment and the owners of neighboring premises (in writing);
- an agreement with a contractor who has SRO approval. Because the partial dismantling load-bearing structure refers to work that is not carried out by the residents themselves, as a result, to confirm the completion of the redevelopment, you will need to present the SRO approval, which your contractor must have. Without permission, you will not receive a certificate of completion, so it is better not to save on the contractor company.
As a result of obtaining all permits from the housing inspection, the owner is issued a Work Production Log, in which it is necessary to record all stages of the repair. Moreover, it is necessary to record the progress of work honestly and in detail, since deviations and inaccuracies in the journal are the reason for refusing to issue an act on the completion of construction work to the owner.
As for the technology itself, it will depend on the type of opening - rectangular, arched. In any case, punching a hole is not recommended. It should be cut, which is done with an unstressed tool - a diamond wheel. Cutting with such a tool can be carried out stationary and manually, depending on the material and scope of work. As a result of cutting, less dust is generated and the hole does not need additional processing.
There are two ways to maintain adobe over openings. The first is to make an arch from the adobe itself. Instructions for building it are in chapter 13. The second option is to install a lintel, a structural piece that carries the wall over the opening. Arches are most suitable for rounded windows or blind windows with an irregular shape, for openings without doors or windows, such as passages between rooms. Lintels are necessary when building large rectangular openings, especially for opening windows and doors.
Jumpers can be made from almost any material, as long as it is long and durable. Steel, bamboo, fused wood, reinforced concrete all apply. Stones, including granite, slate and sandstone, were used as lintels, sometimes in adobe houses. In Wales, you can see granite or slate lintels up to 3 meters in length, they have been supporting for several centuries
Stones of the upper floors. Some of them are so long that a horse-drawn carriage can pass under them.
For adobe, the most suitable are heavy wooden lintels- a specially sawn board, a sawn log or several sticks laid side by side. The tree may be straight or curved. Choose decorative pieces so they can be flaunted. As we go through doorways and look out the windows, the lintels are visible to everyone who operates the house. The top side will be covered with adobe, so it doesn't have to be pretty or flat. The front and bottom sides will be visible, so choose and style them accordingly.
Saman is monolithic, and therefore differs greatly in structure from most others. building systems. The frame structure results in an unequal load, which is concentrated where the frame logs stand. Similarly, but to a lesser extent, brick, block and masonry consist of a large number of small individual parts, so each part transfers the load differently. Adobe is more like cast concrete. The load is distributed more evenly, so after drying over the openings, a large structure is not required. However, a lot of pressure is exerted while the material is still wet, both by weight and by shrinkage. So try to provide temporary props for all but the shortest and thickest lintels until the adobe dries and hardens.
The lintels must penetrate at least a few centimeters into the adobe, on each side: at least 10 cm, plus 2.5 cm, for every 30 cm of the length of the opening.
If the lintel is installed on fresh adobe, it may sink with the wall, transferring pressure to the window or door, which may lead to cracked glass or crushed frame. Before laying the lintel on the wet adobe, build up the adobe on either side of the opening just above the height of the opening - say, a centimeter for every 30 cm of height - to leave
Place for shrinkage. Better yet, let the adobe settle and dry as much as possible before installing the jumper. When inserting windows without frames, if a gap remains between the lintel and the glass after shrinkage, it can be repaired with wood welding.
CONNECTING COB WITH WINDOW AND DOOR FRAMES Doors and opening windows are usually hinged to a wooden or sometimes to a metal frame. Frames, both doors and windows, are exposed to different types loads, sometimes sudden and strong - gusts of wind, flapping, children hanging on them, sometimes breaking (forgotten keys?) It is important that they remain in place. Here are a few ways to stabilize frames so they don't move.
Wet adobe is very heavy and can easily warp wooden frames. The frames must be temporarily unbolted before being reinstalled. doors or tall windows must also be maintained in an upright position by placing a support on solid foundation, for example, on the floor or on the opposite wall. If possible, leave the door right in the frame, closed, with wedges supporting the gaps between it and the frame so that it opens and closes easily afterwards. The same for windows.
So that the frame never loosens, attach it to the adobe. For most small windows it is enough to drive in a few nails so that their heads stick out 2-5 cm. You will need very few nails, and they can be bent and rusty. Finally found a use for those old nails you've been trying to straighten for years. To big windows and light doors on the outside, you can attach wooden planks that will be embedded in the adobe. This will strengthen the frame and prevent it from falling out. Trimmings of 5x10 or 5x5 cm are quite suitable, and roundwood branches are better.
A heavier door needs more careful preparation. There are two main anchor systems:
1) Beam - any piece of wood with uneven surface for better fixation in adobe. It can be a short log with nails partially hammered into it, short, T-shaped design from bars (10x10 cm, for example), a short section of a thin tree trunk with protruding stumps of branches or a stump with the roots of a small tree.
Gringo block - a building element made of unfired bricks, which is a small open box made of boards 5x15 or 5x10 cm, as a thick-walled drawer without bottom. Both beams and gringo blocks are built into the walls during their construction so that one side of them remains open. Door and window frames, shelves,
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Racks and hangers can be attached to these surfaces at a later stage of construction.
The easy-to-make gringo block can be screwed or nailed together as shown using the short ends. edged board. They can be made in any width. standard sizes can be: 20 cm wide by 30 cm long and 10 cm high, but the walls must be well embedded in the adobe. When laying the adobe inside the block, carefully stitch it to the wall below it. Once the block is in place, drive in small stakes inside the block, leaving a few inches sticking out of the top. The pegs will thwart any attempt to move.
From the side of the hinges, the door gradually tends to sag, so make additional anchors there. For heavy outer door make at least two beams per level upper loop. The lock part of the frame suffers from impacts, which mainly affect the area of the lock itself, so make additional fasteners for this part of the frame just below waist level.
Most reliable way Installing a door frame means putting it in place before building the walls. Attach the frame to the foundation, screw anchors to it, insert spacers,
Then build a wall vmuro - Opened window and door frames
Vyaya anchor as it grows.
A less preferred method is to embed anchors into the wall during construction, and attach the frame later. In this case, make sure that the anchors are vertically aligned so that the frame is level. In any case, make sure the anchors are still in the adobe - if you are using treated wood, stick it with old nails, if you are using a piece of wood,
Leave protruding branches. If the door is heavy and the wall is thin, use long uneven sticks rather than gringo blocks.
As with windows, if an adobe wall is around door frame built too quickly, diagonal cracks may appear above the upper corners. The adobe will shrink as it dries, and the stiffness of the frame prevents the top of the adobe from shrinking evenly. To avoid this, push the wall just above the top edge of the frame and wait for the adobe to settle. Measure shrinkage until it stops. This can take a couple of days in dry, hot climates and about a week in rainy or cold weather.
It is possible to make a door or an opening window that will close directly onto an adobe wall, without wooden frame. Of course top part should be arched or linteled to support the weight of the adobe above it. To install hinges and locks, blocks can be embedded in the gringo walls. We do not know how such frames behave over time, but adobe jambs are likely to be shocked by constant slamming of doors. We would recommend a good, durable lime or gypsum plaster for better fit and durability. If you keep the door closed while the plaster dries, the plaster frame will exactly fit the shape of the door, oil the adjoining edge of the door with oil to prevent the plaster from sticking to the door. Softening the door with leather, felt, or something else will protect both the door and the jamb, and will make for a tighter fit.
adobe house. It is told about how to equip the door and window openings adobe (earth) buildings.
Cob houses are no longer as popular as they used to be. But in vain. After all, adobe is made of clay and is the most environmentally friendly pure material. Cob houses are warm in winter and cool in summer. The process of making adobe does not require big investments. The material is cheap and practical, the construction of walls from adobe also does not require special skills. You can even build from adobe two-storey houses. But today we will talk about the arrangement of windows and doors of an adobe house.
During the construction of earth-beaten (adobe, adobe) walls in places where door or window openings are provided, temporary boxes are left that maintain the integrity of the openings during the construction of the building. After arranging the roof of an adobe house, you can begin to insert windows and doors. To do this, knock out the spacers, then carefully remove the boards.
Inserting permanent window frames
Window frames need to be prepared in advance. The box is installed in a strict vertical position. It should have the same indentation from the wall array on all sides. In this position, the box is fixed with wood wedges. In the opening after installing the block, before final fixing, it is necessary to carefully check the evenness of the block location using building level and/or plumb. The evenness of the installation can also be checked by measuring the diagonals of the block. Each vertical beam door/window frame must be attached to the wall in at least two places. To fix the box, screws and ruffs are used (length - 15 cm).
Sealing boxes
The gaps between the wall and the box are sealed mounting foam or they are carefully sealed with a bundle of tow: loops are stuffed from the bundle, with which the groove is clogged. After the final sealing of all cracks, the space between the wall and the box must be puttied.
Window sill device
Windows with inside are supplied with a window sill, in which the side slots are closed with planks, and the upper gap is covered with a plank. The upper gap should be about 5 cm wide. The plank should be nailed so that the settlement of the walls does not lead to deformations of the window frame.
Frame preparation
Prefabricated windows, if they are only slightly impregnated with paint, must be profiled, then applied to them with the main paint. Now they can be glazed and varnished. Window sashes are hung only after the wall decoration is completed.
doors
Hinging and arranging doors is carried out in the following sequence: dismantling of a temporary frame, alignment and installation of a permanent frame, sealing and filling of cracks, hanging door leaf. Therefore, installing a door is an activity that has the same internal logic as installing windows.
Thus, an adobe house is arranged with windows and doors. As you can see, this is also a difficult process that requires certain skills and abilities. Happy building!
What house do you live in? If in adobe, share your experience in building an adobe house - please comment. Want to continue articles about adobe houses?
I decided to install the windows myself (profile 70mm), triple glazing, my house is a private adobe, lined with bricks (total thickness 400mm) How deep should the windows be heated from the outside? How to insulate and make slopes inside and outside the window after installation? Thanks in advance.
According to building codes and rules window block must be installed to a depth of 1/3 of the thickness bearing wall. If you have a wall thickness of 400 mm, then (400: 3) x2 = 266 mm. This means that we measure 134 mm from the outside to the installation line of the double-glazed window and there will be a window along this line. But, here a problem arises if the house is lined with a brick floor, and this is 120 mm, and between brickwork and the wall has an air gap, then it may not be possible to accurately withstand the installation dimension of 134 mm. Therefore, it will be correct to install the window unit almost flush with the adobe wall. All gaps between the window block and the walls of the opening are filled with mounting foam, and only foam, not clay. Foam does not destroy the material of the wall, but on the contrary, it fills all the smallest recesses in the walls and securely connects the window unit with the adobe. The only thing that must be done is to moisten with a spray gun all the surfaces of the window opening with which the foam will come into contact before applying the foam.
Gap with outer side windows between the brickwork and the wall can also be foamed, and if its size allows, then install it thin foam, polyurethane foam, etc. Further, the surface of the slopes is leveled with plaster, a sickle mesh is glued onto it, and finishing plaster. You can also additionally stick a strip of foam, then a sickle mesh and already follow it finishing outer slope.
To finish the internal slopes, you can use plaster or plastic. Plaster in most cases is used to perform such work, as it has excellent characteristics.
Since your house is adobe and the walls of such a house breathe very well, it is best to use plaster on the slopes, which has similar properties.
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Initially, the first layer of coarse-grained plaster mixture, with its help the surface of the slopes is leveled. To obtain a flat slope line, special perforated corners are installed.
After complete drying of the starting putty, a fine-grained finish is applied, each layer of which is processed with sandpaper.
There may be several such layers, depending on the defects in the surface of the window opening, so you need to apply them in thin layers, both starting layers and finishing layers, otherwise the whole plaster can simply move away from the wall of the house and collapse. After drying, the slopes can be painted in any color.
If you use plastic. When choosing such a material, it is worth considering that plastic is quite sealed material and if an adobe house breathes and is not heated in cold weather, then moisture will collect under the finish. It will not come to the surface of the plastic, but over time it can begin to destroy the structure of the building material.
Plastic is very practical and can be used in slopes on any surface. It does not absorb moisture and is very easy to clean. About its service life, we can say that it ends with deformation plastic plate. And so the material can last a very long time.
In my own way appearance has a large assortment, and create original design slopes will not be a big deal.
Plastic can be mounted on a slope only on a special crate and it is not necessary to make it too high to finish the slopes. This can hide the space of the window opening itself.
So that moisture does not collect under this type of finish, it is worth doing before mounting on a slope preparatory work. They are in isolation. For this, light materials are used, such as polystyrene or polyurethane foam of small thickness. They are cut and inserted into the crate.
You can choose plastic, the width of which will correspond to the width of the slope. Thus, there is an opportunity to save money and time for finishing.
Installation of such material is quite simple. It uses a starting strip, which is attached at the bottom and top of the slope and plastic strips or panels are inserted into it. Special locks, which are located at their end, act as a fastener.
There are sandwiches made of plastic with insulation (see photo on the right), but this is not suitable for you for arranging slopes in your house.
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