In every village house There is a real Russian stove that performs several functions. In addition to heating, you can cook food on it. In mansions, the stove can acquire another function - a decorative element.
After reading this article, you will learn how to build a stove with your own hands and what you will need for this.
Despite the possibility gas heating housing, many home owners are in no hurry to give up stoves, which can create a completely different atmosphere. This is especially true for those regions where there are forests and there are no problems with firewood. This can also significantly save on gas bills.
In this article we will take a detailed look at the technology of laying a furnace with an overview various options implementation of the design. After all, you can build compact version or a large-scale project.
There are many types of ovens. Experienced stove makers constantly improve ready-made solutions. However, we do not recommend doing this if you have no experience. It's important to understand correct location structures and channels to ensure high-quality heating of the room.
If you are a beginner master, pay attention to the order diagrams. Follow the instructions to assemble the oven correctly.
Types of stoves
There are three main types:
- Cooking.
- Heating.
- Cooking and heating.
Before folding the stove, decide on the requirements for the future design.
The cooking stove has a cast iron panel, which is designed for cooking food and heating water. This is a compact solution that is widely used in small private houses and cottages. In addition to its main purpose, the hob will warm up the room a little.
The heating and cooking design is suitable for big houses. If desired, you can arrange another bed. Additionally, the stove includes an oven, a container for heating water, and a section for drying fruits (vegetables).
A heating stove is a compact solution that does not have a hob. The design is suitable exclusively for heating the house and can provide heat to small houses.
How to choose a place for the stove
Having decided on the type future furnace, you need to think about where to build it. The “heater” can be built into the walls, implemented in the center of the room, or installed directly into the wall. It all depends on the wishes of the owner:
- Installing a stove in the center of the room will allow you to divide the room into two zones. Accordingly, you can implement a kitchen and living room. Additionally, the building will become a kind of decoration for the home.
- It is not recommended to install the structure near an external wall; some of the heat will escape to the street.
- Laying a stove on the border of two rooms will require separation from the walls with special fireproof materials.
- In the location of the future furnace, you need to take into account that the foundation will be 10-12 centimeters larger than the base of the structure. Additionally, you need to take care of calculating the height of the stove so that everything looks holistic and correct according to the parameters.
- To simplify the work process, it is recommended to have an ordering diagram.
After going through the stages of choosing a model and location, you can go to the store for materials and prepare the necessary tools. In considering the question of how to fold the stove, it is time to familiarize yourself with necessary tools and materials.
What is needed for construction
Depending on the stove model, the amount of materials and parts made of steel and cast iron will vary significantly. The set of tools will be the same in any case.
You will need:
- A scaffold called a goat, which will significantly simplify the work process at height. Using the device, you can not only rise to the desired height, but also place a container with a solution next to it or put tools.
- Pick for brick processing.
- Broom for removing excess sand and mortar from laid rows of bricks and mopping inside the masonry.
- Corner for making corners 90 degrees.
- Plumb line to control the verticality of walls.
- Furnace hammer.
- Wire processing pliers.
- Rubber hammer.
- Chisel.
- Trowel (several pieces) for working with the solution.
- Rule for leveling the foundation.
- A lead scriber that will be used to make markings.
- A chisel in the form of a piece of pipe, which is useful for cutting tiles.
- Wooden spatula for preparing the solution.
- Level.
- Rasp, jointing, sieve.
- Container for preparing cement.
Necessary building materials
Depending on the type of oven, the amount of materials will depend. In most cases, the names are almost always identical. For the heating type of oven, you do not need an oven and a water container. However, the following elements are often used:
- Blower doors.
- Firebox door.
- Door for servicing the stove.
- Chimney damper.
- Hotplate.
- Hob.
- Grate grate.
Additionally can be used:
- Oven.
- Water container.
- Metal corner 0.5m2.
- Metal strips ¾.
- Steel wire.
For masonry, prepare the following:
- Red hardened brick.
- Fireclay brick.
- Components for clay-based mortar. You can take a ready-made refractory mixture specifically for stoves.
- For the foundation you will need sand, crushed stone, cement, formwork materials, and a sheet of roofing material for waterproofing.
- Wall finishing should be done using heat-resistant materials.
Preparing the site for the foundation
It is ideal when the foundation for the stove is poured along with the general foundation of the house. But the bases are not connected with each other. More often the furnace is built in finished house. If this is what you are doing, then do the following:
- If the home foundation is made like a slab, and the stove is not too massive, then you can start laying on a concrete floor. In this case, it is enough to lay down a sheet of roofing felt and start working.
- If the foundation is strip or the floor is made of wood, then you will need to make the foundation according to all the rules.
Foundation creation process
Important! The foundation must be deepened into the ground. Therefore, mark the area for the stove and remove the boards. If the floor is concrete, it will also need to be torn down. Next, follow these recommendations:
- Dig a hole up to half a meter deep.
- Cover the bottom with a 10 cm cushion of sand. Next, lay the same layer of crushed stone and compact it well.
- Along the perimeter of the future foundation, arrange formwork for pouring the mortar. Please note that the structure should be approximately 10 centimeters higher than the level of the home floor.
- The first layer of the base can be made of crushed stone, sand and cement. The pouring should be done evenly and then it should be left to harden. This layer should fill the pit exactly halfway.
- After the first layer has set well, you can begin refilling. Now use exclusively concrete mortar. Make leveling the foundation a rule. The top formwork boards will serve as beacons for you.
- Upon completion of all work, allow the foundation to stand and gain strength. From the second day, moisten the base with water to prevent cracks from forming.
- The foundation will be ready in about 20-30 days. After this time, cover it with roofing felt. The next step is to mark the base of the future stove and you can begin laying the first row of the structure.
After these steps, you can proceed to the main stage of building the furnace.
Masonry process
If you are making a stove for the first time, it is better to start the whole process with dry masonry. Before putting the stove on the solution, it is better to practice to avoid mistakes. Use the following guidelines during the process:
- According to the chosen scheme, perform all actions carefully and consistently. Check the design from time to time.
- Understand the peculiarities of organizing chimney openings, fireboxes and vents.
- To lay the masonry dry, take 5 m thick auxiliary slats to determine the distance between the bricks. During finishing masonry, this space will be filled with mortar.
- Once you have assembled the stove model, disassemble it one by one and, if possible, number each building element. When laying dry, make sure that the bricks are adjusted to size.
- When finishing laying on mortar, it is better to lay out each row dry and then secure it.
- In addition, the mortar laying must be accompanied by a 7 mm layer of joint, and then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, compacted using a rubber hammer. The excess is removed with a trowel.
- After laying two or three rows, decorate the seams using jointing. If necessary, moisten them with water from a spray bottle.
- During the laying process, constantly monitor the vertical and horizontal of the rows.
Very modest requirements are put forward for a do-it-yourself brick dacha stove. Long breaks between visits, a relatively small volume of the heated room, maximum efficiency and the use of local fuel - all these criteria indicate a choice in favor of wood stove. Contrary to popular belief, it can be done without the services of a master stove maker. Let's take a closer look at how to design and build a small brick oven for a summer cottage with your own hands.
Preparing for work
It is unlikely that you will be able to make a complex and highly efficient stone stove for a brick cottage with your own hands without construction experience. There are too many nuances and secrets hidden in the work of a professional stove maker. But small in size and simple in design, a vertical stone stove for a summer residence can easily be built even by an untrained person. The main thing in this process is to do everything very carefully, carefully and in accordance with our recommendations.
Selection of building materials
Since the described small brick stove for a summer house is heated with wood, it is not intended for intense and prolonged heating - it can be made of ordinary, not refractory brick. Although, it is better to use heat-resistant material for the combustion chamber.
List and required amount materials:
- red ceramic solid brick- 700 pcs.;
- grate - 1 pc.;
- fire door- 1 PC.;
- ash door - 1 pc.;
- soot removal channel doors - 2 pcs.;
- valve - 1 pc.
For a stove for a wood-burning cottage with your own hands, you need to choose a solid ceramic brick that does not crumble from the average blow of a hammer, and at the same time produces not a ringing sound (this is a superheated brick), but a booming sound. It is desirable that the side edges of the bricks be smooth.
For the solution you will need clay. Stove makers prefer to choose “fat”, from which the solution turns out to be soft, like butter, and plastic, like soft plasticine. Such clay for building a do-it-yourself stove for a summer cottage can be found in construction stores or, in consultation with local residents, just dig around.
Tool
WITH good tool oven for country house builds quickly and easily. For work, you should prepare a level, plumb line, trowel, mason's hammer and dishes for preparing clay mortar. To cut bricks you need a grinder.
Preparing the foundation for a brick oven for a summer residence
No matter how small a brick stove you make for your own summer cottage, its weight is several hundred kilograms. Therefore, you cannot place it on the wooden floor of the room, but you will need a foundation.
To choose the right location for the foundation, you need to project the plan of the stove onto the ground so that its pipe fits between the floor beams and the roof joists. If there is a chimney in the wall of the house, then the stove for the country house should be located near it. When building a new house, a stove for a dacha can be built into the wall between the rooms. This option is very convenient: both rooms heat up equally quickly, but in one of the rooms, even at the most unfavorable conditions there will never be smoke.
The depth of the foundation must exceed the freezing depth of the soil. However, if country house has its own deep foundation, then a combined foundation can be made for the stove for the dacha. To do this, four lightweight concrete columns, such as those used for fences, are dug vertically into the ground. The posts should protrude from the ground just below floor level.
Between them, directly on the surface of the soil, half a brick is poured with a gravel or sand cushion. Then a layer of roofing felt or other sheet waterproofing is laid. The reinforcing material is placed on top metal grid, and on top of it a concrete foundation with reinforcement is poured. Top part The foundation must coincide with the floor level and be perfectly horizontal!
Let's start building the oven
You need to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the foundation, and a metal sheet on top of it. The dimensions of the sheet should exceed the projection of the stove by 10-15 cm. Moreover, on the side of loading firewood it is better to make a larger outlet. Then random sparks from the blower will fall not on the wooden floor, but on the metal.
During operation, the garden stove heats up quite strongly. If the nearby wall is made of wood or other flammable materials, it must be protected with thermal insulation. The simplest protection can be a sheet of asbestos, painted with heat-resistant paint or covered with a thin plaque. Asbestos cannot be kept open, as its dust is considered very dangerous to inhale. Instead of asbestos, a do-it-yourself summer cottage stove can be insulated from wood with a slab of solid mineral wool. The material must be heat resistant. Facade construction wool is not suitable for this, since it has too low a temperature limit.
Preparing clay solution
The country stove is built on clay, not cement. The clay solution is prepared from good clay and clean river or sea sand. If the clay is not purchased, but was dug somewhere in the neighborhood, then it is worth checking its quality first. To do this, we make several test batches with different proportions of clay and sand. Roll the finished clay dough into small balls, rollers, cakes, and leave to dry for two weeks at room temperature.
Dried products need to be tested: throw them from a height human size, try to crush it with a plank under the weight of a weight, etc. The composition of the most durable clay sample is taken as a standard. In the figure shown, the best batch corresponds to samples “b”.
Preparing bricks and clay
The stove for the dacha is built with your own hands from pre-soaked bricks! To do this, it is kept in water for at least 8 hours. During this time, all the air will come out, and the clay will adhere well to the brick in the masonry. You need to prepare very little clay so that approximately 20-25 pieces are enough for laying. bricks. Without the necessary experience, you won’t be able to put in more at one time. The thickness of the clay mortar in the masonry should not exceed 5 mm.
Features of stove masonry
In order for a stove in the country, laid with your own hands, to serve for a long time, each row should be checked for right angles and horizontal surface. The laying sequence is visible in the order drawing.
The cast iron doors of the blower and combustion chamber are secured using steel wire, which is embedded in the masonry. The cuts are made with a grinder. As a last resort, you can do it the old fashioned way - with a mason's hammer, but in this case there may be a lot of waste for scrap. The area for the grate should be slightly larger than the size of the grate itself. Then, when heated, the metal will not move the brick.
The solution is applied to the wet brick. Experienced stove makers do this not with a trowel, but with their hands. Good solution spreads as easily as spreading soft butter on bread.
Important Note
If during laying the brick sank lower than necessary, it should be removed, the mortar cleaned and laid on a fresh one. Otherwise, the new stove at the dacha will smoke heavily and leak soot. Unlike cement mortar, bricks cannot be moved on clay mortar!
When building a stove for your dacha, try to make the inner walls as smooth as possible. Then soot will not linger on them, and it will be easier and less likely to need to be cleaned. The outside of the country stove should also be neat and beautiful. External seams should be carefully embroidered with a needle or finger. There should also be no gaps in the places where arches and horizontal partitions are formed. It is better to lay such rows slowly, one per day, so that the lower rows have time to set, and the upper rows do not creep.
Bottom line
Despite small size And simple design, For small houses brick country stoves are very popular as they show very good results. They heat up quickly and are warm enough to last all day. A small brick stove for a summer residence is characterized by its low cost and accessibility for self-made, but at permanent residence V winter time You will have to heat it twice a day - in the morning and in the evening.
Stove heating is the main heating system for homes in many regions of our country. Thick-walled stoves are often installed, which have increased heat transfer in northern regions; in winter they are heated once a day. They are able to provide heat to several rooms. They are also used for cooking.
It is not profitable to install several heating boilers in a house, because fuel consumption and the intensity of house pollution will increase. For the southern regions, the best option would be a small stove; if necessary, it is heated a couple of times a day. You can order this structure, but you can also build it yourself.
Choosing a design
Before choosing a boiler design (there are many of them), you must first determine its location in the house. The most the best option placement is the case when the firebox faces the corridor, and the surfaces are oriented towards the rooms. The oven mirror should not be covered by furniture, partitions, etc. Its heat transfer with closed walls decreases by about 1/3.
Heat transfer is approximately proportional to the surface area of the entire furnace structure. When choosing a location, the user must find the type of stove suitable for the home and install it so that it is most big side went out into the most spacious room.
For example, if you need to heat two large adjacent rooms, then it is better to build a stove with a narrow back side facing the corridor and wide side mirrors.
When building with your own hands, the foundation for the structure must have the same area as the masonry. When arranging it on soft soils, special reinforced concrete belts with a thickness of 100-150 mm or reinforced seams 30-50 mm thick.
The choice of foundation is made during laying: you need to draw up a plan, which determines what the base of the furnace will be. After arranging the foundation for the house, you can begin to produce a base for placing the heating stove.
At the same time, you must adhere to these simple rules. It is built separately from the main foundation of the house for the stove. Broken crushed stone and brick are laid in layers 15-20 cm thick in the pit. Each layer is compacted and watered with cement mortar. The last layer is laid out in the same way. After that, two layers of bricks are laid, as when making walls with cement mortar.
Waterproofing is made of glassine, roofing felt or roofing felt, as well as several layers of brick installed on a clay mortar. The top of this stove base should exceed the floor level by 1-2 cm. The boiler is placed on such a base.
Choosing a stove design
Almost every owner can build any of the stoves. But at the same time it is necessary to follow the main recommendations for arrangement. We invite you to familiarize yourself with them by studying the information below.
Choosing a brick
When building with your own hands, one of the primary tasks is choosing a brick. The brick should be red and well fired. "Well fired" means that it is processed with certain temperature. This can be determined by the following signs.
Burnt brick is covered with a dark coating and a glassy film. An unburned brick is pale pink and produces a dull sound when tapped and dropped. When dropped on a hard surface, it shatters into small pieces. Called normally fired brick, when dropped it also splits, but into large pieces. It makes a metallic sound when tapped. This brick should crack easily when processed.
For stove fireboxes, red brick is “a little weak.” The first smoke channel and the firebox are components of the heating furnace, where the most heat, therefore they require the laying of refractory refractory bricks. In this case, the brick is chosen depending on the fuel that will mainly be used to heat the home. If peat will burn in it, you need Borovichi, firewood - white Gzhel, coal - fireclay brick.
Preparing the solution
The next step is the process of preparing the mortar for the brick heating stove. High quality mortar guarantees the strength of the masonry. It is made from clay and sifted sand. Clay is placed in the trough and filled with water. After 3 days, it is necessary to strain the solution.
When the solution is ready, you need to prepare the tool in advance. To carry out construction work we will need:
- Master OK;
- hammer;
- pick;
- level;
- corner;
- sponge brush for grouting surfaces.
The work can be simplified by installing vertical posts around the perimeter of the stove. Having arranged such a simple structure, you will not need to check the masonry horizontally and vertically.
You need to know that the laying of a heating stove is carried out only in warm weather, the best option will be if the temperature is not below 15°C.
When laying, regardless of the chosen design of row masonry, try to ensure that the thickness of the seam is about 3-4 mm, maybe less, but not more. For foundations and pipes, thicker seams are suitable - up to 1 cm. It is important that there are no cavities between the seams.
There is no need to coat the firebox and fuel channels with clay. Corners and turns in the channels must be rounded; all channels in the oven must be rounded and smooth. This is necessary in order to achieve minimal friction against the walls of the channels, to avoid impacts during movement against various obstacles as a result of sudden expansions and contractions of the channel openings. Therefore, it is impossible to lay chipped or hewn parts of brick inside the channels.
Lay grates with a gap of about 0.7–1 cm from the masonry wall. They must have a slope towards the stove door so that the remains of unburned fuel do not accumulate at the rear wall of the structure. Drying usually takes about 14 days, if all the views, latches and vents are completely closed. In order to speed up drying, the stove can be heated with small volumes of absolutely dry firewood.
The cross-sectional size of the smoke channel depends on the amount of gases that will flow through it. If its heat transfer for heating does not exceed 3000 Kcal per hour, its cross-section should be 14*14 cm or 0.5*0.5 bricks. If its level is higher than 3000 Kcal, then it should have dimensions of 14 * 27 cm or 0.5 * 1 brick.
Chimney heads are laid on cement mortar. The surface of the part of the outer pipe located in attic spaces The house needs to be plastered and then whitewashed. This is done to ensure fire safety. The height of the pipe is measured from the grate. In one-story buildings it should not be less than 5 meters. In the places where it passes, a fluff is arranged - a gradual overlap of bricks is made.
If the thickness of the walls of the structure is not less than 1.5 bricks, then it can be equipped with a mounted chimney. In this case, the smoke riser must be installed directly on the stove. Unlike the root mounted chimney the house does not need a foundation. The root pipe is installed in a house that has several stoves. At the same time, connecting structures that are located at different levels is unacceptable, since the lower one will take all the thrust from the upper one if they work simultaneously.
Regardless of the chosen pipe design, an otter is installed above the roof of the house, which should hang over the roof. It prevents water from entering the attic floors. The solution underneath is spread in a thick layer to hold it firmly on the pipe. It is often made in the shape of a square, the size of which should exceed the diameter of the pipe by 20-30 cm. The otter is often constructed by pouring a reinforced concrete structure.
After the otter, the neck of the pipe is settled, followed by an expanding head. All these elements of the boiler - the otter, the head, the neck - are plastered. To do this, you must first moisten the pipe with water. After which a liquid layer of solution is applied, and a thick solution is also laid in several layers. All layers are carefully crushed and the cracks that appear are grouted, after which they are whitewashed with lime.
- 1 part clay;
- 1 part cement;
- 1 part lime dough;
- 2 parts sand or 1 part clay;
- 2 parts sand.
The hearth is the heart of buildings not connected to centralized networks. It generates the heat necessary for life and provides energy for cooking. The microclimate in the building and its service life directly depend on its productivity and efficiency, and these are very important factors in the operation of the unit, don’t you agree?
The article we presented describes in detail how to competently build a brick stove for your home. Schemes for the construction of a home are given, thoroughly disassembled technological nuances. We offer carefully selected, scrupulously verified, practice-proven information on selection and design brick stoves.
Beginning stove makers and country property owners who want to monitor the work of hired craftsmen will be helped by the information we offer, based on construction requirements. Photographic images and video tutorials will be an excellent help in mastering the material.
It is not easy to understand the abundance of constructive brick ovens. However, owners of suburban real estate who want to equip their house with a brick unit should study this difficult issue. It is better to determine in advance the optimal option for its purpose and design than to rebuild and modernize.
Brick stoves are divided into types according to the following aspects:
- Purpose.
- Type of gas movement.
- Performance.
- Frequency of combustion.
- Geometric data.
Ideally, a stove that is perfect for you personally is selected according to two or three of the most important criteria. Let’s look at what should be classified as significant aspects in your opinion, which will become the basis for choosing the optimal brick unit.
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Calculation of heat loss will make it possible to determine the productivity of the furnace, which should be slightly greater than the calculated value, but not more than 15%. If the power of the brick unit exceeds the specified limit, a different design should be selected.
To facilitate the process of choosing the most suitable brick kiln for masonry low-rise building, nomograms have been developed. The graph presented below, which simplifies the calculations for selecting a stove, was created for rooms with one outer wall.
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If you are planning to build country house, maximally equipped for comfortable living in it, then without small oven it is usually not necessary, especially if you plan to use it for most of the year. The lack of experience in stove work should not stop owners who want to install the stove themselves. You just need to choose a suitable, not particularly complex option, the design of which is simple and understandable.
In addition, for a large heating structure with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. Let's consider easy-to-use options that are suitable for both a small house and a novice stove maker. – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.
To make it easier to decide on a suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for the right choice. Well, then consider several options, settling on the optimal one for the specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.
General requirements for brick kilns
The conditions that the chosen design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating of the house, so you should not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention to. These factors include:
- Dimensions furnace design must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
- In addition, you must select correct form furnace structure. The side walls of the furnace, when heated, provide more heat, while the indicator for the front and rear walls is 3–4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.
For heating efficiency, a T-shaped version of the stove is often installed. It can be intended only for heating or perform two functions if you choose a model that includes a hob. Such a stove can heat up to four rooms with a small area.
- The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the structure inside the house; it should be as rational as possible. In order for the stove to be functional, to work as a heating and cooking device, it must be installed so that the hob faces the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
- When choosing a stove, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter must correspond not only to the area of the rooms, but also to their location and number external walls. This table will help you decide on the choice of stove based on its surface area, depending on the characteristics of the room:
| Room area, m² | Not a corner room, inside the house | Room with one outside corner | Room with two external corners | Hallway |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Furnace surface opening into the room, m² | ||||
| 8 | 1.25 | 1.95 | 2.1 | 3.4 |
| 10 | 1.5 | 2.4 | 2.6 | 4.5 |
| 15 | 2.3 | 3.4 | 3.9 | 6 |
| 20 | 3.2 | 4.2 | 4.6 | - |
| 25 | 4.6 | 6.9 | 7.8 | - |
- There is no need to play it safe and choose for small house a massive oven, since it will take a lot of time and enough time to warm it up a large number of fuel, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be “thrown down the drain.” In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than structures that occupy half the room, since heat transfer largely depends on the internal design of the stove, and not just on its massiveness.
- Any stove, even the most heat-intensive one, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat it produces will escape through the walls, windows and ceilings. These will require a very large amount of fuel to maintain the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.
If you plan to save on fuel while getting high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose a bell-type stove, which, thanks to its numerous channels, will for a long time retain heat transferred to living spaces.
How to choose the right place for the stove?
The location of the stove in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up the project, so you can install the heating structure in the right area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, laying out a foundation for a stove before building a house is much simpler both in terms of calculations and the amount of work involved. It must be said right away that the base for the stove must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may begin to deform.
- If there are several rooms planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crossroads of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of buildings should not touch each other, interior walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is presented in the diagram above.
- In some cases, home owners prefer to install a stove near the entrance from the street, since thermal radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain against cold currents.
- Placement of the furnace hatch close to front door will get rid of excess garbage in living rooms, since you won’t have to bring firewood or other fuel into them. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to get burned on it.
- The walls of the heating structure should not be closely adjacent to the walls of the house, that is, free access must be provided to any of them, since for safety reasons they require periodic monitoring, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning of the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in which case reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.
- If the stove is installed in an already built house, then when planning its location, it is necessary to ensure that the chimney pipe falls between the beams attic floor, which must be at a distance of at least 150 mm from it, with the creation of a thermal insulating “gasket” filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often they fix around the pipe metal box, which is filled with expanded clay small fraction, mineral wool, vermiculite or just sand.
- The area in front of the furnace firebox must be covered with heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tiles.
You might be interested in information about what it is
Models of simple-designed small brick ovens
Small brick kilns do not lose their relevance today. And this is despite the emergence of alternative heating options, since many of these new products are too expensive, while others are unavailable in suburban conditions. The stove, traditional for Russian houses, will help out in any situation - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if there is no gas supplied to the house, and the electricity is often cut off, or you just want to save on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing the demand for small-sized stove models, engineers have developed quite a few options. Some of them will be discussed further.
Oven "Krokha"
The name of the model “Krokha” itself speaks about the size of this stove, and it is suitable for a residential building with any area. Moreover, when correct installation design, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For a country house this compact stove will ideal option, as it can create comfort in it in spring and autumn, as well as in damp or cold weather in summer.
This stove is called a “simple stove” because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach it can easily be built even by a novice master. The oven has very small dimensions, only 640×770 mm at the base, so it is suitable even for small room, where it will be decided to allocate a corner for it.
The designer of the stove, A. Sushkov, successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, so “Krokha” will fit perfectly not only into a cottage room, but will also decorate the interior of a private home with its cozy appearance. This stove is designed to heat one or two rooms with an area of 18÷20 m², and has the following characteristics:
| Oven parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 3×2.5 bricks or 640×770 mm |
| Height of structure to pipe | 2030 mm |
| Oven weight | 1260-1280 kg |
| Firebox depth | 746 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat transfer with a disposable firebox | 1760 W |
| With a three-time fire | 2940 W |
| Hob | Single burner |
The designer thought well about the rationality of the stove, so for its small size it gives excellent heat transfer. During the combustion process of this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap” located in the upper part retains the generated heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The stove is equipped with a “summer” operation, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. “Krokha” has three design options that differ in the location of the hob relative to the firebox, but most often the improved and most convenient version is used, in which the stove and firebox are located on one side. This arrangement is convenient because the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into the partition, will heat two rooms located across the wall from the kitchen area.
In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is lined with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls can withstand not only the heat of wood, but also fuel such as coal, briquettes and peat.
Up to the stove level, the oven has smooth walls, and above the combustion door, under hob, along the entire perimeter of the building, a row protruding forward by 30÷35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: the upper, air-gas, and the lower, fuel. At the top of the furnace there are channels for circulating heated air. They help retain heat in the oven for as long as possible, preventing it from immediately escaping into the chimney.
According to the developer's idea, this stove should be equipped with a combustion door with fire-resistant glass, through which the flames are clearly visible. Therefore, if desired, “Krokha” can be used as small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced with a conventional cast iron version.
Since the oven has small size along the perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.
| Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. | |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 | 21 | |
| Red brick (without chimney pipe) | 352 | |
| Curly (rounded) red brick | 124 | |
| 350×250 | 1 | |
| Glass combustion door in a cast iron frame (DP-308-1S) | 210×250 | 1 |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×140 | 1 |
| 410×340 | 1 | |
| Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox | 500×700 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 40×40×5×520 | 4 |
Compact stove model - “Baby”
The main advantage of the model is its small size, 505×760 mm at the base. Well, the low weight, only 360÷365 kg, allows the structure to be installed on a strong, heat-insulated wooden floor. A small stove has relatively thin walls, therefore, when heated, it quickly begins to give off heat to the room in which it is located. short period a comfortable temperature is created.
When laying this stove model, it is important to take into account one point - in the first bottom row of the back wall medium brick you need to leave it free, that is, lay it without mortar. This must be done so that after completion of the masonry, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the stove can be cleaned of fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help dry the finished structure faster. Then, the brick can be installed in place using the mortar.
If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Typically, an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick is used for this, which is covered on top with a metal sheet or roofing felt and an additional continuous layer brickwork. In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles must be laid and secured in front of the stove.
The first heating of the finished stove should be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the stove is heated, its doors and valves are opened for ventilation and final drying, which must be carried out for at least 7-9 days.
After drying, it is recommended to whitewash the stove. The question arises: . Smoke will immediately appear on the whitewash layer if there are gaps between the mortar and the brick. visible to the eye small gaps. Smoke will leave black or gray streaks on the whitewash that will stretch upward from the defective seam. When such marks appear, the seam from which they come must be completely cleaned of the frozen solution and filled with a new one, but more carefully and carefully.
You might be interested in information on how to do it with step-by-step instructions
If you plan to produce decorative finishing the outer walls of the “Malyshka”, then you can start this only after two to three months of operating the stove.
The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be brought outside in three ways:
- Having raised the brickwork of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it out through the attic and the roof of the house;
- By embedding a steel pipe into it and connecting it to the main chimney;
- An embedded pipe can be taken out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.
This diagram will help you understand the design of this brick stove model, since it clearly shows the number of rows and the configuration of the smoke exhaust channels.
The main characteristics of the Malyshka stove are as follows:
| Oven parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 505×760 mm |
| Height of structure to pipe | 725 mm |
| Oven weight | 360÷370 kg |
| Firebox depth | 737 mm |
| Chimney duct cross-section size | 100×100 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat dissipation | 1210 W |
| Hob | single burner |
To build the “Malyshki” stove you will need following materials and finished elements (if you do not take into account the chimney pipe):
| Name of materials and components | Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for firebox | 37 | |
| Red brick | 62 | |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×140 | 1 |
| Cast iron fire door | 210×250 | 1 |
| Single burner cast iron stove | 410×340 | 1 |
| Cast iron grate | 350×200 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| 550×800 | 1 |
Prices for fireclay bricks
fireclay brick
It should be noted that this model can be easily improved, despite its compactness. Some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a tank for heating water to its design. In this configuration, “Malyshka” can be used as a sauna stove.
You may be interested in information about what mini
Heating stove with a small footprint
This mini-oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in a country house if, in addition to it, an electric or gas stove for cooking, and there is no need for hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.
It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjacent rooms by building the stove into the wall between them.
The advantage of this model can be safely called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the stove have a fairly large area, therefore, when heated, they will become a kind of “battery” the size of half a wall, which will quickly and efficiently transfer heat to the premises. The total heat transfer from this model is about 2000 W, with the front and rear walls accounting for 210 W, and the side walls accounting for 895 W each.
The heating stove has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, it will require more material.
The characteristics of this mini-oven model consist of the following parameters:
IN in this case the design of the furnace, just like the structure of the “Krokha”, can be divided into two sections: the upper – gas exhaust, and the lower – combustion. The upper part of the furnace, the “hood,” consists of vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal ones. Thanks to this feature, warm air lingers longer inside the structure, heating the entire area of its side walls.
To build this model you will need the materials listed in this table:
| Name of materials and components | Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick | 260 | |
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for the combustion department | 130 | |
| Cast iron grate | 250×400 | 1 |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×200 | 1 |
| Cast iron fire door | 200×300 | 1 |
| Cleaning doors | 140×200 | 2 |
| Chimney damper | 130×310 | 2 |
| Roofing felt sheet for waterproofing | 1000×600 | 2 |
| Metal sheet for flooring under the stove and in front of the firebox | 500×700 | 1 |
To make the work easier, craftsmen use special ordering diagrams, which must be followed when laying each row.
Prices for chimney valves
chimney valves
This sequence diagram shows the laying of the furnace from the first to the twelfth row. Construction can be carried out on an equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed concrete floor. Since the structure is quite massive and bulky in height, it cannot be installed on a wooden floor.
- Ruberoid is laid under the masonry in two layers, and to simplify the alignment of the first row, on waterproofing material can be drawn with chalk, using a long ruler, the border of the base.
- When laying the first row, we must not forget that the horizontal and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control tools - a plumb line and building level. Some craftsmen also practice stretching horizontal cords for each row.
- As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, and a vertical smoke exhaust channel is formed.
- On the fifth row of masonry, a grate is installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. Starting from the fifth and ending with the 15th row, the masonry is made with fireclay bricks.
- On the sixth row, in front of the grate, the combustion door is installed and secured with wire.
Prices for roofing material
roofing felt
- The following diagram represents the order, starting with the 13th row and ending with the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and the combustion chamber, so it is very important to carry out the masonry in accordance with the diagram. Otherwise, the entire work may be ruined and will have to be redone.
- Having finished laying the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the resulting space, and the cleaning chamber door is installed. Further, up to the 25th row, the masonry is carried out according to the order scheme.
- On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer of clay-sand mixture is laid on top of the brickwork of the 24th row. Then the cleaning chamber door is installed.
- On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are installed, with the help of which it will be possible to regulate the draft.
- The remaining rows are laid according to the diagram, and from the 35th row the laying of the chimney pipe begins.
Heating and cooking "Swedish" - a detailed description of the furnace laying
General description and required materials
In the final section, a fairly popular Swedish stove model will be presented. She is chosen for detailed description, because with its simple design and compact size it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.
This version of the heating and cooking stove has good location all functional elements - they are located on one front side of the structure. Therefore, such a “Swede” is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber face the kitchen, and the smooth rear brick wall, which warms up perfectly during the fire, faces the living room.
The dimensions of this design are 1020x885x2030 mm, with a power of 2750 kcal/hour, so the stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with an area of up to 30 square meters. m.
The presented version of the “Swede” was created for certain operating conditions. So, it was created for heating a country house, 4000x7000 mm in size, built from sand-lime brick or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses of other sizes, as evidenced by its heat transfer parameters.
- Wood and other types of solid fuel can be used as fuel for this stove.
- For this model, only the internal lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it is carried out. Therefore, fireclay brick will not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the stove facade, made of high-quality red brick. External finishing is not provided.
- In order for the stove to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), so installing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
- In this design, the laying of a drying chamber is mandatory.
If you decide to use this development, you should first consider the table necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.
You may be interested in information about which one is best to use when building fireplaces and stoves.
Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking “Swedish”:
| Name of materials and components | Size(mm) | Quantity (pcs.) |
|---|---|---|
| Red full-bodied kiln brick(excluding pipe height) | 250×120×60 | 551 |
| Fireclay refractory brick Ш-8 | 250×124×65 | 31 |
| Blower door | 140×250 | 1 |
| Fire door | 210×250 | 1 |
| Doors for cleaning chambers | 140×140 | 3 |
| Oven | 450×250×290 | 1 |
| Cast iron two-burner cooking stove | 410×710 | 1 |
| grate | 200×300 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| Steam exhaust valve | 130×130 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 45×45×5×1020 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45×45×5×700 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45×45×5×905 | 5 |
| Steel strip | 50×5×650 | 2 |
| Drying rack | 190×340 | 1 |
| Metal sheet covering drying chambers | 800×905×0.5÷1 | 1 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 500×700×1.5÷2 | 1 |
| Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements. | 5mm thick | 1 |
Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swedish"
| Illustration | Description of the work procedure |
|---|---|
 | The first continuous row, consisting of 28 red bricks, must have a perfect flat surface and right angles, since it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows. |
 | The second row is laid out from 28 ½ red bricks, also with solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This point must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the masonry of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks must be laid staggered, with overlapping seams. |
 | On the third row, the formation of the lower heating chamber, which will be located under the oven, and the blower begin. Vertical smoke exhaust channels also begin to form. When laying out a row, they leave peculiar windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for the vertical channels, as well as the blower and the lower heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast iron doors are fixed into the windows. After this, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on a spoon. Moreover, the corner of the brick installed in the right vertical channel is cramped for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, a fourth part of fireclay brick is installed in the first chimney channel - it is highlighted in yellow in the figure. To lay this row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones. |
 | Fourth row. At this stage, channels and chambers continue to form, according to the diagram, and the chimney channels still remain united. For a row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones. |
 | When working on the fifth row, the previously installed doors overlap. The side walls of the combustion chamber bottom are lined with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick that will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but are shared with the right first channel. To install this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks. |
 | The sixth row is laid out according to the pattern. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and there should now be three separate ducts at the rear of the stove. The base under the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks - it is placed on a spoon. The wall between the niche for oven and the fuel chamber is built from quarters of fireclay bricks. Next comes the stage of installing the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The door frame must be wrapped with asbestos material so that there is an expansion gap between it and the brick for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of loose bricks until it is firmly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, which is also pre-wrapped in asbestos. For laying this row and interior design niches will require 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks. |
 | For greater clarity, this figure shows the sixth row laid out with the oven box installed. |
 | On the seventh row, the firebox and oven chambers continue to form - the internal lining is fire-resistant, and external masonry- red brick. Fireclay brick is installed on a spoon, red brick on a bed (flat). To work you will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks. |
 | First on the eighth row chimney channel separated from the chamber where the oven box is installed using fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry follows the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks. |
 | Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked with a brick. The remaining work is carried out according to the diagram shown, and for them you need to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks. |
 | On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. A 10x10 mm step is cut into the refractory brick installed along the inner perimeter of the front of the stove, intended for laying the cast iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks. |
 | Having laid out the tenth row, on a step cut into fireclay brick, around the entire perimeter internal space lay asbestos cord. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located on the same level as external walls ovens built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel corner (45x45x1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect the brick corner from damage and generally strengthen the row. |
 | On the 11th row the walls are formed cooking chamber. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the stove is filled with bricks, which are mounted across the masonry of the 10th row. To work you need to prepare 16 pieces of red brick. |
 | For the 12th row you will need 15 red bricks - the laying proceeds according to the presented scheme. |
 | The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the serial pattern shown. For the 13th row you will need 15½, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here you need to take into account that the seams between the bricks of the bottom row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a different pattern from the 13th. |
 | The 15th and 16th rows are also laid according to the order pattern. For them you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks. |
 | After completing the laying of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be covered with three steel corners measuring 45x45x905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the chamber, two corners are placed side by side, with vertical walls facing each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition to them, a strip measuring 45x45x700 mm covers the front part of the chamber. These elements form a reliable support for covering the chamber with bricks, so the corners should be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other. |
 | The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks, which cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, a hole is left in the far left corner of the ceiling to extract vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to the ceiling, the laying of vertical channels continues. |
 | The 18th row is laid out almost completely, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work you will need 25 bricks. |
 | After this, a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is intended to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, since it must support two rows of upper masonry. |
 | On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as a continuation of the ventilation duct designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and for laying you need to prepare 16 red bricks. |
 | The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the diagram shown. |
 | The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. It is laid out according to the diagram shown. |
 | The 22nd row is laid out with 16 red bricks. |
 | After laying out the 22nd row, a metal plate measuring 190x340 mm is mounted on the small drying chamber, which will act as a heated shelf. |
 | 23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the smoke exhaust channels and drying chambers continue to rise. A cutout is made on the brick laid above the steam outlet channel, into which a valve will be mounted to regulate the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step is to place a valve with a size of 140×140 mm on the prepared seat. For this row you need to prepare 17 red bricks. |
 | On the 24th row, the ventilation valve is closed, as well as the first and second chimney ducts are combined. To work on this row you will need 15½ bricks. |
 | On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row you need to prepare 15½ red bricks. |
 | The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the demonstrated pattern. |
 | Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are covered with a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50x5x650 mm. The angle placed on the front side of the drying chambers is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and also, together with the steel strips, to create a base for the steel sheet covering the chambers. |
 | A sheet of metal measuring 800×905 mm is laid on top of the steel strips and angles. It covers the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney channel, into which smoke will flow from all other channels. The chimney pipe will be built above it. |
 | On the 27th row from the top metal sheet continuous brickwork is installed. It should protrude 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the oven cross-section. To lay this row you will need 32 bricks. |
 | The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond it by another 25 mm. The chimney opening remains open. To lay out this row you will need 37 red bricks. |
 | Row 29 will require 26½ red bricks. They are laid out with an indentation of 50 mm inward from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the base of the oven. |
 | The 30th row of the furnace masonry is already the first row of the chimney superstructure. A row consists of 5 red bricks. At the top of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10x10 mm step is cut out - it will serve as a seat for the chimney damper, measuring 250x130 mm. Next, the valve frame itself is mounted on the clay mortar. |
 | The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney damper, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Work on the construction of the chimney will begin above. |
The lower diagram with a section of the design of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of fuel combustion products. It clearly shows that hot gas flows, thanks to vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.
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