How to install a heating battery - installation methods and options. Fastening heating radiators to the wall Rules for installing heating radiators in a private house

Self-assembly heating appliances is a task for which you need to carefully prepare. The slightest violation of the simplest process in the opinion of an amateur often leads to negative emergency consequences. Therefore, it is advisable to entrust the replacement of batteries in city apartments to plumbers, on whose powerful shoulders the entire burden of responsibility will fall, and in a private house, installation of heating batteries with their own hands can be successfully performed by the owner. However, in order not to have to repair the floors and re-paste the wallpaper after a hot "flood", you should familiarize yourself with the information about the basic rules and nuances of installation.

Preparatory stage of work

The first step is to find out what type of wiring was used when organizing the heating system. The owners who arranged it on their own should know whether the heating network provides heat to their country estates.

Before you start installing a radiator, you should find out a single-pipe or two-pipe heating circuit in the house, the choice of parts and their number depend on the wiring diagram

Parts required for installation

Depending on the design features details are selected. For a battery built into single-pipe heating, it will be necessary. This element will allow, in case of any malfunctions, to turn off only the device equipped with a bypass without shutting off the entire heating system, which is extremely undesirable in frosty weather.

The connection scheme and the type of radiator also determine the number of connecting and functional elements required for competent installation. According to the scheme and dimensions, adapters, couplings, nipples, corners are selected.

An inexperienced performer should not get carried away with details for mounting a radiator that are too complicated to install: 1) corners, 2) radiator shut-off valve, 3) "American", 4) tap with an American

The future installer will also need shut-off valves. It is recommended to choose the radiator type stop valves, without being carried away by too complex ball valves with an "American" that require professional skills from the performer. Ensuring tightness without experience is problematic. To connect the battery to the pipeline, you will need spurs with a thread corresponding to the size of the radiator and pipes. A sleeve will still be screwed onto the sleeves, which is then twisted and inserted into the battery.

With the help of spurs, it is easier and easier to connect the radiator to the heating circuit - there is no need to weld the joints of the supply and pipeline

It is important to note that when purchasing for installation, you must first check whether the brackets included in the kit correspond to the type of material from which the walls are built.

In order to let air out of the battery, it must be equipped with a Mayevsky crane. Usually it is available in the factory, but if not, you will need to buy it.

An important detail necessary for the correct installation of a heating radiator is the Mayevsky crane, which is necessary to bleed air from the device

How to calculate location?

Those wishing to carry out the installation of the radiator on their own should be aware that the sections of pipes leading to the devices must be positioned with a slight slope in the direction of movement. In the case of strictly horizontal laying, as well as in the case of a slight distortion in the radiator installation, air will “collect” in steel or cast iron batteries. It will have to be constantly blown by hand to avoid a decrease in heat transfer.

It is desirable that the central axis of the radiator coincides with the axis passing through the center of the window opening. Deviations of 2 cm are permissible, absolutely not determined visually. This recommendation is not a strict requirement.

In the list of strict rules:

The elements of the connection to the heating devices should be located so that the slope is 0.005, it is recommended to increase it to 0.01. That is, one meter of the pipeline must be inclined towards the circulation by at least 0.5 cm. The angle of inclination should be calculated according to the length of the installed pipe sections.
From the floor plane to the battery 6-10 cm or more.
From the bottom line of the window sill to top line radiator 5-10 cm.
From the wall surface to the radiator 3-5 cm.

When installing a radiator, a prerequisite is the observance of horizontal and vertical directions.

Norms and rules for installing a heating device: distances from the floor, walls, window sill

In order to increase the performance of the radiator, a specialized shield made of heat-reflecting material can be installed on the wall behind it before installation. You can simply cover the surface of the wall with a composition with similar properties.

For aesthetic and technological reasons, radiators in the same room are located on the same level.

Marking batteries with brackets

The sectional principle of selecting heating devices allows you to accurately determine the number of sections needed to heat a room with specific specifications. Information about the rules of payment must be found and studied before buying. But according to the installation rules, 1 m² of the area of \u200b\u200bthe heating surface of the battery is equipped with one bracket.

Brackets for mounting radiators: home-made on top, factory-made on the bottom, if desired House master he will be able to do it with his own hands, by analogy with factory-made battery mounts

So, here's what to do:

Taking into account the above rules, we mark the installation points of the brackets.
Before drilling holes, all distances are checked again.
We insert dowels into the drilled holes, into which we then screw the fasteners.

If the markup was done correctly, the battery will “lie down” tightly on all installed supports, firmly resting on each of them. Further installation of the radiator with your own hands is to connect the device to the communication system.

Tools and Consumables

The performer will need torque wrenches with dimensions that allow high precision observe the dynamometric moment. Since the coolant moves through the system under pressure, insufficient tightness will lead to a jet from the junction. Overtightening will cause thread stripping with similar consequences. Therefore, you should carefully follow the instructions that come with each device. They indicate the value of the dynamometric moments.

You will need to stock up with sealant, tow, impregnated oil paint, or special sealing tape.

Direct installation process

Before starting work, it is necessary to completely shut off the heating circuit, drain the water from the system, and the pump will help to qualitatively remove the remnants of which. Carefully check with the help of a level the battery hung on the supports vertically and horizontally.

All plugs must be unscrewed from the device.
Connect a valve-equipped bypass, required only for a one-pipe circuit. A bypass is not needed to connect to a two-pipe circuit; only a squeegee with a valve attached to it is used for connection.

Using threaded rods, we connect the battery to the system, using tow or other sealant to seal the joints (if you have experience in welding, the joints of the rods and the pipeline can be welded).

A bypass is required for connection to a single-pipe circuit - connection diagram: 1 - tee for metal-plastic pipes; 2 - direct control valve; 3 - straight shut-off valve; 4 - adapter for metal-plastic pipes; 5 - rotary valve for air release

It is important to note that until the end of the installation with, and devices, it is not necessary to remove the packaging shell.

Installation completed, but more needed. For its implementation, you will need to call a plumber. Both his experience and the device will come in handy, which does not make sense to buy for the sake of installing several batteries.

The specifics of installing a cast-iron radiator

No matter how intensely the manufacturers of innovative batteries promote their aesthetic ultra-light aluminum and bimetallic products, there are still quite a few adherents of cast iron. The material, which is not pleasing with elegance, retains heat for an incredibly long time, gradually transferring it to the heated space. Those who wish to learn how to properly install a heating radiator made of heat-intensive cast iron should familiarize themselves with the specific design features of the device and its installation:

Before installation, the cast iron battery will need to be unscrewed, the nipples adjusted, and then the device must be reassembled. Disassembly is carried out on a workbench, using a pair of radiator wrenches inserted into the nipple holes. To increase the applied force and to fix it, a crowbar is inserted into the eye of the key designed to unscrew the lower nipple. To avoid distortion, both nipples located above and below are unscrewed simultaneously. It is more convenient to do the work together. When unscrewing a cast iron radiator, pay attention to the direction of the thread. On different sides of the cast iron radiator, threads with the opposite direction. Have you deployed? Take off the section.
By analogy, you need to unscrew all the sections, and then, in strict reverse order, group them into a single device with the one required for heating specific premises the number of sections. The assembled battery must be pressed, if a leak is detected, adjust to trouble spot nipple.
Cast iron wall-mounted batteries can be fixed on brick and foam concrete walls. Wood walls will not support the weight, so the owner wooden house you will need radiators with special floor stands-supports. However, supporting fasteners must also be installed on the walls.
Since in private houses heating is mainly single-pipe, a bypass is being installed. In the connection diagram, there must be a Mayevsky crane and the corresponding shutoff valves.

Connection to the pipeline is carried out using threaded spurs. IN wooden buildings welding machine better not to use.

The technology of unscrewing and assembling cast-iron batteries: a - nipples capture the threads of sections (2-3 threads); b - twist the nipples, dock the sections; c - mount the third section; g - group two radiators

The difference in the schemes for attaching a cast-iron battery to walls made of different building materials:
a) wooden wall: 1) support bar, 2) stand
b) brick wall: 1) window sill, 2) niche, 3) brackets

Whether or not it is worth saving on installing batteries is a personal matter of the owner. In fact, there is not a single particularly difficult moment in the installation technology. By strictly following the sequence, knowing the rules, having studied the information on how to install a heating radiator, you can safely get down to business with your hands, confidently holding radiator, torque wrenches and other tools. True, to achieve success, confidence alone will not be enough. Thorough observance of the installation rules and the formation of impeccable tightness, which guarantees the complete absence of leaks, will certainly help.

Installation of heating is a serious stage in preparing the house for operation. Fixing heating radiators to the wall is not the only, but quite a big difficulty in this process. To do everything right and get good result your work, you need to understand what mounting options exist, the types of batteries, the subtleties of work.

The first question is still to consider the types of batteries that you can use both in a country house and in an apartment.

Types of radiators for heating systems

An important factor when choosing a battery is the price-quality ratio. In this market segment, the heat transfer coefficient is considered to be an indicator of quality. But each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. To make the final choice, you should familiarize yourself with all the parameters of the main types of radiators.

Cast iron batteries

The advantages of this type are:

Cast iron batteries have very thick walls, which adds to their durability.
Cast iron is resistant to corrosion formations.
Such radiators give off heat for a long time even after you have turned off the heating system.
Compared to other types, cast iron batteries have the longest lifespan.

Cast iron battery

Flaws

Fastening cast iron radiators to the wall is difficult due to their large weight. When installing them, it is imperative to use supporting stands.
The disadvantages also include their unattractive appearance and massiveness.

Steel radiators

Producers and consumers consider the advantages of this type:

Not big weight which facilitates the installation process.
High heating rate of the system, and as a result, rapid heat transfer.

The cons are:

Low heating temperature and rapid cooling of the system.
Short service life.
The operating pressure of such batteries must not exceed 10 bar.
Low resistance to hydro and pneumatic shocks.

Aluminum radiators

The advantages of this type:

The negative properties of this type of battery are poor resistance to corrosion and the rapid destruction of the junction with another type of metal.

Bimetal radiators

This is the most universal view, combining the charms of steel and aluminum batteries. Mounting bimetallic radiators to the wall is also simple, and the steel inside the battery prevents corrosion and increases the operating pressure to optimal levels. Often, professionals recommend opting for this option.

Stages of work

If you decide to do the work of installing the batteries yourself, you need to know what steps this process involves.

The instruction for carrying out such work divides it into:

Preparation of materials and equipment.
Location calculation.
Installation of brackets.
Production of actual installation.
Soldering or sealing the joint.
System check.

Preparatory stage

This stage applies to all types of construction work. First of all, pay attention to what type of systems your heating system belongs to. They are single-pipe and two-pipe. If you are the owner single pipe system heating, you will need to additionally purchase a bypass, which will allow you, if necessary, to turn off any part of the system without resorting to its complete shutdown.

These operations are not recommended to be performed in winter, especially during severe frosts - this is unsafe. Even if you decide to do all the work yourself, you still have to call a plumber from the ZhEK to disconnect your apartment from the common riser. In preparation for installing the system, you will need to purchase or obtain the following tools and Additional materials, such as:

Keys.
Tow.
Valves.
Drives.
Couplings.
Adapters.
Brackets.
Bushings.
Nipples.
corners.

If you choose, for example, cast iron batteries, you will probably have to buy Mayevsky cranes and install them yourself. in bimetallic and aluminum sections they are already built in. This device allows you to bleed excess air from the system and maintain its functionality, preventing airing.

How to properly install

Battery installation, including bimetallic type, has a number of rules. You must determine for yourself the parameters that you must adhere to.

Mounting the battery to the wall

You must know that the battery is attached taking into account the distance from all surfaces and planes next to which it is located. To ensure the necessary air flow to the system, you must leave a gap of at least 10 centimeters from the floor. In order for the air to evenly spread throughout the room from the windowsill to the radiator, it is also necessary to leave a space of 10-15 centimeters. The distance from the wall to the radiator should not be less than 3 centimeters.

So, you already understood how to fix the heating radiator correctly and place it in the appropriate niche, but in addition to the indents, you also need to know other nuances. You must comply correct angle slope, calculate required amount sections, brackets. Very often people come to the store and do not know certain parameters, without which the choice of quantity does not make sense and is made at random. We do not welcome such experiments, since you can buy fewer materials, which will lead to the fact that the system will not cope with the heating of the room and you will be cold. The next part of the article is devoted to the issues of correct calculation.

Heating installation

How “superficially” everyone represents, but you can make the correct calculation only if you have accurate information.

The first nuance is the cubic capacity of your room. Here, not only the area is important, but also the height of the ceilings. Carefully study your premises and only then, with the help of a consultant in the store, select the required number of sections.

The number of brackets can be minimally limited to a pair, this is if the area is about 1 square meter. For each next square, one more bracket is added. In order not to make the fastening system too weak, the number of brackets is always calculated taking into account a margin of one piece.

Radiator connection

So, all calculations are made. The preparation is over, we proceed to the actual installation. You need to measure everything carefully, double-checking all the marks several times with the help of a level and a ruler. If you are sure, then drill. After the holes are made, special dowels are inserted into them and fasteners are screwed in. It's time to sample. Hang the battery and take a good look at how you did it. If you did everything right, then as a result you will see a well “shrunken” radiator, densely and evenly distributing the weight on the mounts. Try to move the resulting design. If the battery is firmly fixed, you can proceed with the connections.

The tightness of the joints is the main thing you need to achieve. Since any leakage leads to malfunction or deviations in the operation of the entire system. In order to avoid this, you should use sealants, which are suitable for tow, silicone or sealant, sealing tapes. The system should not work when connected! If you have valves that you can dehydrate and turn off part of the system, be sure to do so!

Let's start assembling the connections. We screw in all the necessary parts of the dock, carefully sealing. If your battery has protective film, it is worth removing it only after crimping all connections. For insurance at this stage of work, you can ask for the presence of a plumber, this will facilitate your work and give you confidence in the correct implementation and implementation. If you make any mistakes in the process, experienced master will immediately help you eliminate them, which will save both time and money for rework in the event of an unsuccessful installation process.

As for cast iron systems, everything is a little more complicated here. Before installation, you must completely unwind it (this is done mainly on a workbench and not alone), check, blow through, adjust, and then assemble it back in a strict sequence, the reverse of the unwinding process. Before choosing cast iron batteries, think carefully, because due to the heavy weight of the structure and the complexity of the assembly and disassembly process, not everyone dares to use this type of battery.

If you doubt whether the walls of your house or apartment will be able to withstand the mass that “hangs” on them, but you have already made a purchase and, as they say, cannot be exchanged, purchase stands that will help distribute the weight of the battery and remove some of the load off the wall. When using them, the dimensions of the distance from the floor to the battery must be such that the stands will fully fulfill their function, you should pay attention to this.

As you saw, fixing heating radiators to a wall is a process that is not only technically complicated, everything is important here - the material of the walls, the type of batteries chosen, taking into account distances and angles of inclination, but still these difficulties are not so terrible if you carefully plan everything and enlist the support of reliable assistants!

Fastening radiators to the wall surface is not a laborious process, but it has its own peculiarities and subtleties. Mounting radiators to walls is one of the milestones work on the organization of the heating system. The rules for fixing radiators, first of all, depend on the material from which they are made. To do this reliably, you should be aware of the types of these elements of the heating system, fastener options and take into account other subtleties of the workflow. Then mounting radiators to the wall will not cause you any difficulties.

Varieties and features of batteries

Cast iron radiators are distinguished by thick walls and corrosion resistance. They keep heat for a long time and have a long service life. However, it is the great weight of these products that makes us make the most durable mounts and supporting stands for them.

Steel batteries are light in weight, which makes their installation not at all difficult. But they are short-lived and quickly lose heat.

Attractive to appearance aluminum products for the heating system, the fastening of which is also easy due to their light weight.

Bimetallic radiators are considered the most versatile, combining the properties of steel and aluminum structures. Their installation is also not laborious.

Mounts for different types of batteries

To attach heavy heating appliances to the wall, you should choose massive holders that can easily hold a lot of weight for many years. For such products, a thicker, solid metal is used, most often marked as "reinforced". On sale for this there are brackets and hooks supplied with dowels. After drilling a hole in the wall, just insert the dowel and screw the hook into it.

Often, legs are used for cast-iron batteries, which can be adjusted in height. In order to hang them on a wall made of concrete or brick, you can use standard dowels, but in the case of plasterboard or wooden walls, it will be necessary to provide additional floor base. In this case, the legs will be very handy.

For fixing to the wall bimetal, aluminum and steel radiators similar brackets are used, only made of thinner metal. In this case, corner fasteners are convenient, which are considered universal and equipped with recesses for the collector. Such details can be fixed both on the right and on the left. However, for these types of heating batteries, there are also special racks that allow them to be installed on the floor.

The main subtleties of work

The type of heating system plays an important role in all work. With single-pipe heating, a bypass will be required, allowing you to turn off the separate sections heating system. To work on fastening radiators, you will need to prepare everything necessary tools and materials:

plugs and plugs;
dowels;
taps and brackets;
building level and perforator.

When attaching radiators to the wall, you should follow some rules that allow you to do the job as efficiently as possible. First of all, the following dimensions must be observed:

Be sure to take into account the distance of the structure from adjacent surfaces. So, the space from the floor to the radiator should remain at least ten centimeters. Approximately the same distance must be maintained from the batteries to the windowsill for even air distribution.

The distance from the radiators to the walls must be maintained within three centimeters.

In addition, other nuances should be taken into account, allowing you to correctly mount the elements of the heating system:

The area of the room. The number of sections of the heater depends on this parameter, which plays an important role in the implementation of fastening.
The number of brackets must be chosen with a margin. It is advisable to use at least three brackets: two on top and one on the bottom. But it is best to use four, two on the bottom and two on top. If the battery size exceeds 10 sections, it is recommended to increase the number of brackets to six.

Procedure for attaching batteries to a wall

After all necessary calculations and the purchase of materials, you can begin to fix the heating appliances. The surface of the wall before fastening should be prepared - plastered or wallpapered.
Marking the place for hooks or brackets. By using building level and rulers, all measurements are carefully performed, and only then drilling is carried out.

Dowels are inserted into the holes made and fasteners are screwed in.
After hanging the battery, it is necessary to check the correctness of its fixation and make sure that there is no play. After trying on the batteries, it will be clear whether the work has been done correctly. If the radiator sat tightly, immobilized and its weight is distributed over the fasteners, then we can conclude that everything was done technologically correctly. A horizontal level and gaskets will help eliminate the possibility of radiator distortions desired thickness, which are installed where they are in contact with the brackets.

Correct and secure fastening heating appliances to the wall is a guarantee of peace and well-being of the residents of the apartment. Insufficient fixation of batteries, especially in combination with the following factors, may cause the product to deform or the seals to leak, causing leakage. That is why it is very important to install them correctly and reliably.

So, the factors that exacerbate improper mounting of batteries:

mechanical damage to devices during the operational period;
distortions of heating radiators when filling them with water.

If you plan to install radiators yourself, then one of the important issues that you should study before getting down to business is the technique of securely attaching radiators to the wall. From how correctly you choose fasteners and produce installation work depends on the peace of mind of you and your neighbors for many years to come.

Installing a radiator requires a certain amount of time, even for masters. If you have no experience, it will take much more time. And for the period of work it is necessary to turn off the heating throughout the riser. Although, of course, you can transfer everything to the summer, when there is no coolant in the system.
In addition to time, as we have said, experience is required. Connecting radiators to the heating system is a very responsible matter. It is worth a little undertightening or overtightening any of the connections, and after a while it may lose its tightness. you will flood hot water not only themselves, but also their neighbors.
Properly attaching the battery to the wall also has a very great importance. We will talk about this further.

In fairness, it should be noted that all of the above applies to the performance of work in own house. But in this case, all the damage will concern only you, so the degree of responsibility is still somewhat less.

wall mount

In the vast majority of cases, heating radiators are attached to the wall. They are installed under the window to create thermal curtain for streams of cold air passing through the glazing.

Wall mounting of the radiator must be carried out taking into account its weight and wall material.

The heaviest are cast iron batteries. They can be hung on a brick or concrete wall using standard dowels, but in the case of a wooden or plasterboard surface, a special floor base must be provided. It should bear the main load, and in this case the wall bracket is needed only to maintain the radiator housing in a vertical position.

No less carefully you need to choose fasteners for bimetallic radiators. Although they are slightly lighter than cast iron, the load on the wall surface can be quite impressive. Depending on the weight of the radiator, a floor support may also be required.

But aluminum radiators are quite light, so they can be attached to any wall.

Actually wall mount the radiator is no different, for example, from installing a bracket for a flat-panel TV - the requirements for matching the type of materials used are the same.

Work order

First of all, you need to mark the surface of the wall and determine the place where each bracket will be installed. The requirements for the placement of radiators are as follows:

the distance from the radiator to the window sill and the floor plane is at least 10 cm;
distance from the wall to the rear surface of the case - at least 5 cm;
it is necessary to ensure a slight horizontal slope so that air bubbles do not accumulate in the upper part;
the heating radiator plugs must be at the level of the installation of the coolant supply pipes.

The number of attachment points depends on the size of the battery. If the number of sections is not more than six, then in a brick or concrete wall it is enough to fix one bracket from below and two from above. For larger radiators, it is better to increase the number of points by one in each row.

After all the points are marked, it is necessary to drill a hole for the dowels, install all the fasteners and fix each bracket.

After all operations, it is better to check the reliability of fastening by applying a force approximately equal to the weight of the radiator to all holders. The bracket must not be movable in any direction and must not bend under the applied load.

If you are using a floor base, then the installation rigidity requirements wall elements slightly lower - in this case they perform an auxiliary function.

After checking, you can hang the radiator on fixed holders and connect the main heating pipes.

Floor installation

Floor mounting of radiators is much less common and can be due to several reasons:

there is no niche on the wall required sizes. For example, the room has a window large area, under which there is not enough space for a radiator;
for aesthetic reasons. Features of the applied design radiators or general style the design of the room may require the installation of a battery on legs or on a special floor pedestal.

Floor mounting has a number of advantages, including speed, reliability and the ability to accommodate any, including the heaviest, types of heating batteries.

The process of fixing the radiator to the floor is not too different from the wall. Since the floor is initially a hard and hard surface, there are no problems with the choice of materials here - you can use standard fasteners.

The only exception is wooden floors in country houses, in such cases, for especially heavy radiators, it is better to play it safe and try to use at least one wall bracket to reduce the load on the logs.

Before installing the radiator, it is necessary to mark the place for each floor bracket, and then, using fasteners, securely fix all holders on the floor surface. If the radiator is light in weight, then instead of massive brackets, it may contain small legs, which are fastened in the same way.

Now it remains only to carefully fix the radiator housing to the installed elements and connect the necessary communications.

Remember that everything threaded connections must be performed with a certain effort, exceeding which is dangerous. Therefore, it is better to stock up on a torque wrench in advance and find the corresponding values \u200b\u200bof tightening torques in the instructions.

Self-replacement of heating batteries will allow you not only to save a certain amount of money, but also to gain complete confidence in the reliability and quality of your heating system. But in order for her further exploitation did not bring unnecessary unrest, it is better to approach the issue of fixing radiators with maximum attention and accuracy.

One of important aspects installation of elements of heating systems is the installation of batteries on the wall. At first glance, elementary questions - how and how to fix this device on vertical surface, are not so unambiguous and therefore deserve special attention. That is what we will talk about in this article.

Radiator installation

The instruction for connecting devices to the piping system and fixing heating radiators to the wall depends equally on:

From battery type selected for heating.
The material from which they are built bearing walls , because it is on them in most cases that these products are fixed.

Those who decide to start creating a heating system with their own hands should understand this issue in detail.

Types of heaters and features of their installation

The classic fastening of batteries is carried out on the wall under the windows for the device of a thermal barrier to cold air coming from the glazing. The selection of the type of fastening is carried out taking into account the mass of a particular heating product.

Cast iron models

Cast iron batteries are the heaviest of all known heating appliances.

However, they have a number undeniable advantages explaining the popularity of cast iron heating products:

The thick-walled sections of such a unit hold heat well and are still quite long time give it to the room even when the coolant supply is turned off.
Cast iron is highly resistant to corrosion and therefore radiators made of this material are as durable as possible.

The disadvantages of cast iron appliances include their large weight and significant massiveness. However, modern manufacturers have learned to make quite elegant products from this material, not only qualitatively warming up the room, but having aesthetically attractive forms.

Cast iron radiators are fixed to the wall in various ways:

For walls made of brick, cinder block, concrete, it is possible to mount using special brackets or bent pins made of thick metal on simple dowels.

For wooden walls and drywall structures, you will have to build a floor base, which will bear the main load. And fixing cast-iron heating radiators to the wall will perform a supporting function.

To work on the installation of the heater you will need:

Drill or perforator with nozzles that match the material of the wall.
Building level.
Brackets.
Dowels.

The rules for fixing a heating radiator to a wall are common to all types of appliances:

The distance from the top of the appliance to the window sill is about 100 mm.
From the floor to the bottom surface of the battery -100-120 mm (this is especially important in cases where you have a "scrupulous" floor covering).
From the wall to the battery 30-50 mm.

Important!
When these parameters are changed, the heat transfer of the heater is significantly reduced.

The number of fasteners is calculated according to the dimensions of the battery (at least two fasteners at the top and one supporting at the bottom). This is for a six-section radiator mounted on a concrete or brick surface.
For sectional devices, the brackets are located in the gaps between the sections.
Marking for fastening is carried out in compliance with the vertical and horizontal of the future product (use the level).

Attention!
It is necessary to provide a slight horizontal slope to prevent the accumulation of air bubbles in the upper part of the product.

Strictly make sure that the inlets on the battery are located accordingly to the heating main.

The instructions for the workflow are very simple, so anyone can do this job with their own hands:

Battery attachment points are marked with a simple pencil using a building level and a ruler.
Further, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the designated places.
Dowels are inserted into them, into which the brackets are then screwed, they must be securely fixed (fixed).

It's time to "try on" the battery. If all the rules for mounting the device are observed, and it is well fitted on the mounts without wobbles, you can continue to mount the radiator to the wall - fix it with.

Steel radiators

Heating appliances made of steel:

Much less massive, which greatly facilitates their installation.
They warm up very quickly and begin the process of heat transfer.

Steel batteries are sectional and panel. Sectional models are hung, like their cast-iron counterparts, with the only difference being that the bracket for attaching the radiator to the wall is less powerful.

For mounting panel products on the back wall, brackets are welded, which are hung on the brackets. The number of brackets depends on the size of the panel (minimum four pieces).

Advice!
Marking for must be done with particular accuracy so that the welded brackets fall on the installed brackets without effort.
In addition, the surface of the wall must be perfectly aligned.

With a small mass, the fastening of heating radiators to the wall can be facilitated and performed using a set of special brackets and stops. With this method, the brackets are hung upper loops device, and the lower one is fixed in a fixture that rests either on the floor or on the wall (more often).

For your information!
In this way, it is better to mount heating radiators to a wall of aerated concrete.

Aluminum radiators

Aesthetic and neat aluminum models:

They have a great look.
Very small mass, making the mount aluminum radiators to the wall quickly and uncomplicated.
Are calculated on working pressure in system to 20 Bars.
Characterized by the maximum rate of heat transfer.

Unfortunately, aluminum heating appliances are prone to corrosion and quickly break down at the junctions with other metals.

Bimetal radiators

Truly, universal type radiators - bimetallic heating devices:

Unite in themselves best qualities steel and aluminum batteries.
Mounting bimetallic radiators to the wall is easy and simple.
The steel inner surface of the product reduces the risk of destruction due to corrosion.
Bimetal radiators are designed for optimal level pressure in heating networks.

Interesting!
When choosing heating appliances, professionals advise choosing bimetallic products.

Before attaching bimetal radiator to the wall, markings are made in accordance with the dimensions of the device. Fastening to stone and concrete walls is carried out on brackets by analogy with the technology described above.

For structures made of drywall and other lightweight materials, you need to use double-sided fasteners.

If you still have doubts about the reliability of attaching the radiators to the walls so that they do not sag under their own weight, purchase and install floor stands. They will help to distribute the mass of the device and partially remove the load from the wall mounts.

Conclusion

Now you know how to fix a heating radiator on the wall without any difficulties, unless, of course, you have all the tools necessary for this process. But this is not a problem either, since there are shops that provide tools for rent in the event that you do not want to buy a rotary hammer for yourself, and yet you cannot do without it.

The price of the service is low, and you can easily cope with the task in a couple of days. In the presented video in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.