Having understood the toilet installation technology, you can save on plumbing services and do the job as efficiently as possible. The toilet bowl can be mounted in the traditional way or in a more modern way - with installation. In the second case, the drain tank will be hidden in the wall, which will favorably affect the interior of the room.
You are provided with instructions on how to complete each of the listed installation options.
| H | h | h1 | L | l | l1 | B | b | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| With one-piece molded shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | Not less than 605 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Without one-piece molded shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | 460 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Baby | 335 | 285 | 130 | 405 | 280 | 380 | 290 | 210 |
Work set
- Perforator.
- Roulette.
- Wrench.
- Fan pipe.
- Flexible hose.
- FUM tape.
- Fasteners.
- Sealant.
In the case of installing a toilet bowl on the installation, the listed list will expand with the corresponding set. Everything you need is bought at any plumbing store.
Dismantling the old toilet
First step . Shut off the water supply and drain all the liquid.
Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Third step. We unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. If it doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.
Fourth step. Dismantling the toilet bowl.
Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet drain from the sewer.
In old buildings, plums are usually fixed with cement plaster. To destroy it, use a hammer and a chisel. We need to prick the cement and gently shake the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and loosen. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.
If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.
Important! Sewer gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and highly flammable. Be sure to keep this in mind as you work.
Getting ready to install
The base for the installation of the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:
- if the floor is tiled and does not have level differences, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
- if the floor is tiled and not even, install the toilet with chopsticks. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, chopsticks are hammered into them according to the level, and after that the toilet bowl is attached to the chopsticks with screws;
- if a tile replacement is planned, we dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed, if the old one has level differences;
- if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, we fill in the screed and lay the tiles.
We pay attention to pipes. Sewerage from debris and various deposits, we install a tap on the water supply (if it was absent before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.
How to install a conventional toilet
As a rule, when selling, the toilet bowl and the tank are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.
First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.
Marks on the floor for fasteners Second step. We remove the toilet bowl and drill mounting holes in the marked places.
Third step. We drive the dowels into the mounting holes.
Fourth step. Installing the bowl. We insert fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten fasteners. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fasteners or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. From above we close the fasteners with plugs.
Fifth step. We mount the cover and seat. The manual for their assembly usually comes with the toilet, so we will not dwell on this event separately.
Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how the toilet outlet is connected.
Video - Installing a Compact toilet with wall outlet
Prices for accessories for toilets and urinals
Accessories for toilet bowls and urinals
If the release is done into the wall, we work like this:
If the release to the floor is being arranged, we do the following:
Useful advice! If the toilet bowl is connected to the drain pipe using a corrugation, sealing can be abandoned in most cases, because. the design of such an adapter hose is itself able to provide a sufficiently tight fit.
Seventh step. We carry out the installation of the tank. Drain mechanisms, as a rule, are sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, assemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (the assembly order for different models may vary slightly).
We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water hole in our toilet. Install the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.
Fasteners are most conveniently installed like this:
Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it digs somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. The level of filling the tank with water is adjustable by moving the float lower or higher.
We let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we take the toilet into permanent operation.
Modern installation. A special wall installation is used, in which the mechanism of the tank is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and the drain button remain visible.
We mount a wall-mounted toilet for installation
Video - How to install a wall-mounted toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation
The first stage is the installation of the frame
We carry out the installation of a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable with brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. Frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet.
The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.
The second stage - we hang the tank
We perform the installation in compliance with the following recommendations:
- we place the drain button at about a meter distance from the floor;
- between the attachment points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the eyes of our toilet bowl;
- the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
- we hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
- between the drain tank and the wall we maintain no more than 15 mm distance.
The third stage - we mount the finished installation
We first check the evenness of the wall with a plumb line. When deviations are found, do the following:
The fourth stage - install the tank
First we connect the tank. The drain may have top and side outlets. Almost all modern models of tanks allow you to choose between these two options.
Important! When installing the toilet on the installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank with a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. Would you like to destroy the frame skin in the near future for the sake of a five-minute replacement of such a hose? That's it!
For connection, it is best to use plastic pipes. All necessary fasteners usually come with the tank. Separately, you have to buy only a panel for the drain buttons, and even then not always.
We connect the release of our toilet bowl with the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with a corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily turn off the toilet from the drain and remove the bowl to the side.
Important! The procedure for connecting the cistern to the toilet and plumbing may vary depending on the model of the product. We clarify these points in a separate order and follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Fifth stage - we sheathe the installation
To do this, we use moisture-resistant drywall with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fix it with a double layer. First we do the following:
- we screw the pins for hanging the toilet into the frame (they are included in the kit);
- close the drain holes with plugs (also from the kit) so that they are not clogged with dust and debris;
- we make holes in drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.
We fasten the sheathing sheets to the frame with the help of special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening step at the level of 30-40 cm. The design will have small dimensions and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between the fasteners.
We tile drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.
Useful advice! Before starting to tile the box with tiles, we install a plug and a cuff in the place of the future location of the drain button. They are usually included in the kit.
Video - Installing a hanging toilet
Stage six - install the toilet
To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on the pins (we installed them in the previous stages of work). You can follow these steps in reverse order, whichever is more convenient for you. Tighten the fixing nuts.
Important! Previously, the tile that will come into contact with must be covered with a layer of silicone sealant (you can install a gasket instead).
You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.
The assembly instructions for the installation remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.
First step. Lock your knee firmly. Metal fasteners will help you with this.
Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.
Third step. Install the toilet in the place intended for it. Circle the outline of the sanitary ware and mark the holes for the fasteners.
Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the marking.
Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into the vent pipe and secure the sanitary ware with the bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.
Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of mounting a wall-mounted toilet model.
Seventh step. We bring the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet bowl. If everything is fine, we accept the product for permanent operation.
Read our new article - and also find out what varieties there are, how to choose and install.
Video - Installing an attached toilet with a hidden cistern
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself toilet installation
If the well-known literary classic lived today, his famous saying could sound like this: “if in the first act a toilet hangs on the wall, then in the third act it should shoot.”
Today we will talk about Cersanit toilet installations(Cersanit). One day, I heard from my friend the words that he does not really understand phrases “ installation installation“, “how to install installation“. After all, the English word “installation” is translated as “installation”. And that's right. It turned out that it also has other meanings: installation, assembly, placement, installation in place, and even “introduction”.
So, it is about the installation and installation of the suspended toilet bowl Cersanit that I will talk about on this page.
The installation frame consists of two metal parts, lower and upper. They are very simply and securely connected to each other, forming a single structure.
Before assembling, I advise you to carefully study the manufacturer's recommendations for assembling the frame. There is nothing complicated, even the child will figure it out. Of course, for a child, such a constructor will be heavy.
The whole difficulty, as you rightly think, is not in the assembly of the structure, but in the installation of the frame into place and the connection to the pipes. We are interested in two pipes. One is a drain supplying cold water to the storage tank, the other is a sewer pipe. It is with the last pipe that the main problems are associated with the installation of a hanging toilet bowl.
Choosing a place to install a wall hung toilet
Any toilet bowl, even standing on the floor, even suspended, must be installed as close as possible to the sewer riser. It would be a big mistake to install this sanitary fixture a few meters from the aforementioned pipe or even in another room. Only in the movies you can see how the sewer pipes randomly wander through all the rooms of the apartment without any system, neglecting the level of slope, which the ancient Romans, who built the aqueducts, knew about.
For example, in the French film “Not a Moment of Peace” with Christian Clavier in the title role, we see how the drain pipes were destroyed during the dismantling of the office, and water from the bathtub flooded not only the office, but also the neighbors. I will not describe here all the plumbing blunders of the film. It's funny, but the shut-off valves that turn off the water in the risers were also in the office.
In films, they teach, having heard an alarming knock on the door at night, to get rid of drugs and money by flushing them down the toilet. If you do not rule out the possibility that you will need to flush something like this, then install the toilet closer to the riser, my advice to you.
The water in the storage tank is not enough to give the necessary energy and wash away all the “wealth” you have accumulated at a distance of a few meters from the riser, and you will be caught red-handed.
The standard cost of carrying out work on a is half the amount spent on the purchase of a plumbing fixture. Given such prices, it is quite understandable that you want to save money and do the installation yourself. Use the training videos and follow the instructions when.
Types of installation systems
Consider the design of the installation to understand how it is mounted. In fact, this is a steel frame, which is attached to the ceiling and the wall, or only to the wall. After installation, communications and plumbing are brought to the module. Then the frame is sheathed with dry plaster and lined. Consider the differences between the systems.
Advice. Suspended plumbing only visually reduces the space, installation requires the same amount of space as for a conventional model.
Installing the installation
Models of installation modules may differ, so before starting installation, carefully study the instructions for your model. Start creating markup:
- Draw the center line of the center of the installation.
- Mark the distance from the frame to the wall, it must be at least 13 cm.
- Mark the location of the drain tank.
- On the floor, mark the places where the anchors will be. It is better to do this with a fitting frame.
Marking for mounting the frame
Use a perforator to make holes for the fasteners and put the installation in place. Attach the frame to the anchors and adjust in height. Secure the system using a level. The frame must be rigid and level.
Advice. Purchase the toilet together with the installation module to avoid surprises during installation with mismatched connection connectors.
Connecting communications
First of all, we bring water to the tank. Modern tanks have two types of connection to choose from: top or side. The pipe must be plastic, because. flexible hoses have a limited service life. To replace such a hose in the future, you will have to dismantle the false panel with the lining. Agree, this is too expensive to replace one tube.
Tank installation
Having installed the tank, proceed to the installation of sewer pipes. The toilet outlet is connected to the sewer outlet by means of a corrugation. It is very rare when it is possible to make a connection directly. Mount the tank button.
It is necessary to check the tightness of the system. The toilet bowl is hung on the frame, a test flush is made. Then the toilet is dismantled, and finally installed after the completion of the finishing work. The toilet bowl is placed on the floor with a bowl down, the fasteners are baited and fixed on the frame. Under the bowl is to put a soft stand for safety net.
Sewer connection
Advice. The studs for fixing the toilet bowl must be screwed in before finishing work begins.
Facing the installation module
The installation frame is sewn up with moisture-resistant drywall sheets, which are mounted directly to the frame or to the profile box. The instructions usually contain a detailed cutting map, taking into account slots for holes for the drain button. Plasterboard sheathe the entire wall or just a niche. A shelf for accessories is often made in a niche. The partition is faced with any finishing material or plaster.
Facing the installation module
After the lining has dried, install the toilet bowl completely.
Advice. The drain button of the tank looks good if it is located in the center of the facing tile or in the center of the tile joint. Therefore, it is advised to lay the tiles from the button.
Concrete base instead of installation
It is possible to replace an expensive installation system with a homemade concrete alternative. The drain tank in this design can be installed in two ways:
- as standard over the bowl on the manufactured base;
- mount the tank behind a false wall, bringing the mechanical drain button to the wall.
This variation is quite economical, but the installation of the base will take more time compared to the installation of a store installation, since you have to wait for the concrete to gain strength. You will need the following materials for the work:
- about 40 liters of ready-made concrete: cement not lower than M200, sifted sand, fine gravel and water. The ratio of components in the proportion of 1:2:3:0.8.
- boards or plywood for formwork;
concrete base
- wood screws for collecting formwork;
- threaded rods for fixing a toilet bowl 20 mm thick, about 80 cm long;
- silicone sealant;
- plastic pipe according to the size of the drain;
- drain fitting;
- level.
Start by drilling holes for metal rods in the wall. The depth of the hole is 15 cm. The hole is cleaned and glue (chemical anchor) is poured inside. Insert the rod. The formwork is mounted on self-tapping screws, a hole is pre-drilled in the front board for the release of rods. For the stability of the formwork, nuts are screwed onto the pins. The building level checks the vertical. Install the clutch. Before concrete work, they try on the final version: the outlet of the toilet bowl is combined with the coupling, and the rods must go into the holes for fastening. The drain hole of the coupling is covered with foam and pressed. Pour the concrete mixture into the formwork. Again check the level. After three weeks, the formwork can be removed and the installation of plumbing can begin. Gaskets are installed on the toilet and put on the pins. Check stability and performance.
Advice. The appearance of the installation does not inspire confidence in some, however, such a frame can withstand a power load of 400 kg.
Health check
Before sewing up the entire structure with a false panel, you need to make sure that there are no leaks and that the system as a whole is working. To check, open the water supply tap. After the tank is full, the water is drained. You need to do this several times.
The toilet with installation looks neat and fits most interior styles.
If there are problems, then the possible causes may be as follows:
- when water leaks from the tank - most likely the gaskets are installed incorrectly or moved during installation. Shut off the water, unscrew the connecting bolts, inspect and correct the gasket;
- if the toilet staggers, then somewhere it is worth tightening the bolts in the installation or the fasteners of the toilet itself. Tighten the bolts carefully so as not to split the ceramics and not to break the threads of the fastening fittings;
- standing water in the toilet indicates that the drain pipe is installed at the wrong angle. Dismantle the device and set the drain strictly at 45 degrees;
- leakage at the floor can be caused by insufficient sealing of the corrugations.
Installation of a wall-mounted toilet is technologically more complicated than installing a classic counterpart. However, if you own a construction tool, then if you wish, installing the installation with your own hands will not cause difficulties.
Installation guide: video
How to install a toilet installation: photo
The usual floor-standing toilets have been replaced by suspended structures that do not take up floor space and look more modern. Not surprisingly, wall-mounted models began to displace traditional products from the market. Installation of a suspended structure is more difficult, takes more time and costs more, but you can save money if you consider such an option as installing a wall-hung toilet with your own hands.
Internal arrangement and principle of operation of the structure
If you understand the design features of the product, it becomes clear how to install a wall-mounted toilet.
The design of the wall product is such that only the toilet bowl is a visible element
The first element is a strong steel frame, which is the basis to which the visible part of the structure is attached - the toilet bowl. It is with its installation that the installation of a hanging toilet begins. The frame is securely fixed to the wall, also fixed to the floor - as a result, it must withstand the weight of a heavy person.
Accordingly, it is unacceptable to mount this structure to weak walls (for example, drywall), since the wall simply cannot withstand it. The frame is equipped with a device that allows you to adjust the height (400-430 mm), on which the bowl of the product is mounted. It is suspended from the frame using special pins - this is the main fastening of the hanging toilet.
Often two installations are installed at the same time - for the toilet and for the bidet
The second element is a plastic drain tank hidden in the wall. Its shape differs from the traditional one, since the container must fit in a narrow design. It is mounted in a steel frame and insulated with a special material that excludes the appearance of condensate - styrene. The front wall of the tank is equipped with a cutout for mounting a trigger button device. In case of repair, this cutout is also used. Almost all modern cisterns involve drain dosing: for example, the volume of drained water can be either 3 liters or 6 liters, depending on the purpose.
Cisterns of flat configuration are fixed inside the installation
The third element is the toilet bowl, the only visible and actively exploited part of the structure. Its shape is traditional, oval, although designer models come in both round and rectangular configurations.
There should be no problems with fasteners, since a set of necessary parts and tools and installation instructions are included with the product. Sometimes it is required to additionally purchase a Teflon tape, a polyethylene outlet, a flexible hose, and studs.
Installation technology for installation
Mounting a wall-hung toilet with a special frame installed in the wall is more expensive, but more reliable and faster.
The installation must be mounted to the floor and the main wall
- Installation of a steel frame - through special holes it is attached to the main wall and floor with dowels. At the installation site, sewer and water pipes are removed. The frame (installation) should be checked for evenness using a level. It should be clearly parallel to the wall to which it is attached. At this stage, the installation height of the hanging toilet bowl is also set - 40-43 cm. It depends on the height of the apartment owners.
The height of the toilet bowl is adjustable during installation
- Water supply to the tank. It can be flexible or rigid. Experts insist on a hard option, as it lasts much longer. While the liner is being installed, the valve in the tank is in the closed state.
At the time of work, the drain of water from the tank should be blocked.
- Connecting the toilet to the sewerage system. The toilet outlet is inserted into the sewer outlet, the connection is fixed with a corrugation. After installation, it is necessary to test the system - make a test drain. To do this, the toilet bowl is completely screwed to the frame for a while. Then it is removed again, as it is usually installed at the final stage.
Many installation kits are connected to a sewer pipe without using corrugations
- Sheathing of the working area with sheets of drywall. For the plumbing unit, sheets of waterproof double drywall are chosen, more durable than usual. The panels are mounted to the frame and a metal profile, which is mounted on the wall. In the instructions attached to the product, there is a detailed scheme for cutting the material with the places for cutting the necessary holes. There can be two options for sheathing: for the area of the entire wall or just to close the installation. In the second case, an impromptu shelf will appear above the toilet bowl.
An impromptu shelf above the toilet and bidet can be used for decor or the right things
- Facing the partition with ceramic tiles or panels similar to the finishing material of the bathroom.
Wall cladding behind the toilet should be in harmony with the rest of the room.
- The final stage is the installation of a wall-mounted toilet bowl, specifically its bowl. It is hung on the allotted part of the steel frame using two studs.
Lined drywall sheets cover the installation and cistern, leaving the toilet bowl and flush button
Particular attention should be paid to the correct installation of the installation, since the correct execution of subsequent work depends on it.
Installation of a toilet bowl without installation, on a concrete base
Sometimes they are interested in how to install a hanging toilet without installation. Of course, installing a toilet on a frame can be replaced with a cheaper option - mounting on a do-it-yourself concrete base.
The drain tank is installed in two ways: either mounted on the wall with the withdrawal of the drain buttons, or placed in a standard way above the toilet bowl in a manufactured base.
Scheme of fastening a wall-mounted toilet bowl: 1 - 2 rods mounted in the wall; 2 - monolithic concrete base; 3 - drain pipe
Consider the most economical option.
To install, you need to prepare:
- about 40 liters of concrete M200;
- formwork boards;
- nuts, washers, wood screws;
- 2 threaded rods 2 cm thick (length from 50 to 80 cm);
- a piece of plastic pipe (length - 8 cm or more, diameter - 11 cm);
- drain coupling;
- silicone sealant.
Start by fixing the rods in the main wall. In the future, a toilet bowl will be “planted” on the releases of the rods. You get a fairly stable design that can withstand a weight of 400-500 kg.
The dimensions of the concrete base are calculated taking into account the further dismantling of the formwork
Install formwork. Calculate the distance between the holes for fasteners, mark the fastening points on the formwork.
Calculate the length of the rods: sum up the thickness of the recess (about 15 cm), the distance from the toilet bowl to the wall. To fix the rods in the wall, a chemical anchor is used - a special glue for concrete.
After mounting the pins and installing the formwork, they try on the toilet bowl. Holes for fastening must coincide with the outlets, the outlet - with the drain of the coupling.
The concrete base will finally harden only after 2-3 weeks
Start concreting, supporting the drain hole with foam. The result is a monolithic block with a fixed open sleeve and outgoing pins.
The concrete base must include the pins for the toilet bowl, the outlet of the drain coupling and the space at the top for mounting the cistern
You should not think about how to install a wall-mounted toilet on a prepared base - the subsequent steps do not differ from installing a conventional floor-standing toilet: connect the drain, seal the connections, install the bowl on the pins, tighten the nuts. The drain tank is fixed above the toilet bowl.
The concrete base and drain pipe can be covered with drywall sheets, leaving an opening for access to the drain tank
Such a do-it-yourself installation of a hanging toilet bowl will save the family budget, since an expensive installation is not required.
Do-it-yourself installation and fastening of a hanging wall-mounted toilet
Self-installation of a hanging toilet. Features of the stages of installation on the installation and concrete base. Video instruction.
Instructions and tips for installing a wall-hung toilet with installation
Suspended plumbing fixtures are gradually gaining popularity, especially among owners of small bathrooms. However, not everyone likes hanging toilets - outwardly they seem unstable and unreliable. This impression is deceptive, because the installation of the wall-mounted toilet is carried out using an installation system that is hidden behind the wall finishing material. Let us consider in more detail the advantages of suspended plumbing objects and get acquainted with the instructions for their installation.
Benefits of wall hung toilets
- compactness . The space of the bathroom is freed up due to the lack of a drain tank - it hides in the wall along with the rest of the communications. Thanks to the resulting void under the toilet, plumbing seems weightless, this technique visually lightens the interior and makes it visually more spacious.
- Modern style . Suspended plumbing is a relatively new invention, its installation immediately indicates that the owner of the house is following the development of technology and keeping up with fashion trends.
- Versatility . It doesn’t matter if you are only changing the toilet bowl or completely renovating the bathroom furniture and equipment – a hanging toilet bowl will always be appropriate and will make the interior of the bathroom elegant and concise.
- Practicality . Cleaning the room is now much easier. The installation of the "warm floor" system is also facilitated. Floor tiles are laid without violating the integrity of the ornament.
Choosing and buying a toilet bowl with installation
The main condition for purchasing an installation is that it must match the model of the toilet bowl you have chosen. Often, wall-hung toilets are equipped with an installation system initially, it is best to prefer this particular option.
The installation must match the size of the niche in which it will be placed.
Installations are of two types.
block - fastened to the wall using conventional anchor bolts, which are the main support of the entire structure.
Framework - is a frame on legs, thanks to which the height of the toilet is adjusted. The frame is attached in four places. It is possible that all four mounts are fixed on the wall - this mounting method can only be used in the case of solid walls.
If the wall is not stable enough, choose an installation with two mounts on the wall and two on the floor. The last two fasteners bear the main load.
Pay attention to the equipment of the device. In a favorable scenario, you will receive the main part (blocks or frames), fasteners, flush keys, noise insulation, flush tank and adapter.
Stages of installation of a toilet bowl with installation
- We are marking the walls. We draw a line - the central axis of the future system. We calculate the distance between the installation and the wall, which will house the sewerage and water supply. We mark the mounting points of the installation and the location of the tank.
- Provide a technological hatch just below the drain button. This will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the tank and its repair if necessary.
- Use modern flush buttons that save water. It can be two separate buttons, one of which drains the full volume of water in the tank, and the other half. Another option is the presence of "Start" and "Stop" buttons.
- Consider the location of the drain button relative to the tile elements. Design the button either strictly between two tiles, or in the center of one of them.
- The top edge of the toilet must be no higher than 45 cm from the floor and no lower than 40 cm.
- The thickness of the wall hiding the installation system should not exceed 7 cm.
- A standard distance of 18 or 23 cm is maintained between the mounting holes of the toilet bowl.
- Control the correct installation at all stages of work. This will help to avoid gross errors during installation and problems during the operation of plumbing equipment.
The toilet bowl installed according to all the rules with the installation is able to withstand a load of up to 400 kg! If you doubt that you can do all the work correctly and efficiently, we advise you to resort to the help of qualified specialists. Well, to save the budget, of course, self-assembly of the installation system will help. Feel free to use technological and design know-how to create an original and practical interior.
Installing a toilet bowl with installation: detailed instructions and tips
We offer detailed instructions and useful tips for installing a wall-hung toilet bowl with installation.
Installing a hanging toilet with installation: the subtleties of installation
Toilets with installation are real aristocrats in the world of plumbing. These are convenient and compact devices, usually distinguished by their magnificent design and the price that is not sparing at all for its owner. In addition, the installation of a wall-hung toilet is a rather complicated task, it requires very careful execution.
And yet, the ranks of adherents of toilet bowls with an installation are steadily growing. Many home craftsmen, after studying the recommendations and instructions, successfully cope with the installation of this difficult structure on their own.
It is only important to correctly perform each stage of installation work.
How is a wall hung toilet?
A hanging toilet is much more complicated than a conventional compact or monolith. The installation is called a solid metal frame. This frame is installed inside the wall niche and securely fixed to the wall and to the floor.
The flat plastic tank is already attached to the frame. Then the necessary communications are brought to the niche, finishing is done and the toilet bowl itself is hung.
The toilet remains outside, and the rest of the filling remains hidden in the wall. A flush button is also displayed on the wall, which is usually located on the wall above the bowl. Even from this brief description, it can be understood that the installation of such a device is a laborious process.
But still, the model with the installation has many advantages:
- aesthetic appearance and attractive design - the bowl seems to float above the floor;
- compact dimensions, leaving a wide scope for placing the toilet in both small and large bathrooms;
- the absence of a leg makes it much easier to clean the room;
- the design of the installation is universal, it is possible to choose some elements to your taste and budget;
- frame and tank failures are extremely rare, and repairing or replacing the drain button is usually not difficult.
Among the shortcomings, the high price should be noted. Including installation costs, the cost of such a toilet can be twice the cost of a standard floor model.
However, manufacturers take into account the growing popularity of suspended plumbing, so relatively inexpensive models have appeared on sale. Another drawback is that the tank and frame, hidden in the wall, are not too accessible for repairs.
In the event of a major breakdown, you may have to turn the entire wall around and redo the finishing work in that area.
Materials and tools
To install a toilet bowl with the installation of a built-in toilet bowl, you must purchase the following items:
- installation frame with a plastic tank;
- a bowl of a hinged toilet bowl;
- flush button;
- toilet studs;
- a set of nozzles for connecting a bowl with a tank, etc.
The installation is usually supplied complete with a flat plastic tank, as well as adapters, nozzles, fasteners and a flush button. The kit usually includes a special material that protects the structure inside the wall from the effects of condensate, and also reduces the noise level from the operating tank.
When buying, you should carefully check the kit in order to immediately purchase the missing items. The toilet bowl is also purchased separately. The dimensions and configuration of the installation, as well as other details, are standardized, so they can be changed if desired.
For example, you can choose the new dual flush button, which saves water.
To complete the installation, you will also need a number of tools, primarily a hammer drill and concrete drill bits that match the fasteners. You also need a building level, open-end wrenches, a tape measure, a pencil for marking, a knife for cutting drywall, etc.
The procedure for installing a wall-hung toilet
Schematically, the procedure for installing a toilet bowl with an installation can be represented as a series of basic steps:
- Make a niche in the wall of a suitable size.
- Bring the sewer to the niche.
- Perform installation of the installation frame.
- Lead to the place of installation of the cold water supply pipe.
- Connect the toilet bowl.
- Close the niche, install the flush button and finish.
- Hang the toilet by connecting to the tank, as well as to the sewer.
You will also need a certain amount of drywall, both for installation and for finishing work.
Each stage of the installation of a wall-hung toilet requires close attention. The service life of the device, the number and nature of breakdowns largely depend on the quality of the installation work.
The results of even minor errors made during the installation process may not become apparent immediately, but only during operation. Repairs can be very costly and time-consuming, so it’s better to install all the elements of this device right away than to redo it later.
Niche for installation
Only walls with an appropriate load-bearing capacity are suitable for creating a niche and installing an installation. The installation is able to withstand a weight of about 400 kg, and part of this load falls on the wall. Therefore, it would be unreasonable to put a wall-mounted toilet on a drywall wall, it can simply collapse.
So, to install the installation, you need to hollow out a niche in the wall with the following parameters:
Sometimes depth requirements are not easy to meet. In this case, the niche is made to the possible depth, and its disadvantage is hidden with the help of drywall and finishing.
Thus, there is space for experiments in the field of interior design. For example, you can make a built-in wardrobe in the space between the ledge that appears and the wall, or hang open shelves there.
But the idea of just putting the frame along the wall, and then completely sheathing it with drywall does not make much sense. In this case, it is easier and cheaper to put an ordinary compact in the same place, which will take up the same amount of space or even less.
Residents of the upper floors of apartment buildings sometimes install a fan riser in a niche. At the same time, a part of the fan riser is cut off and an air valve is installed where the outlet to the attic is located.
In some bathrooms, a niche for communications is provided for by the project. It can also be used to mount the installation, but some modifications may be necessary, such as changing the position of water pipes and moving the sewer riser.
If the home craftsman does not have experience in performing such operations, it is better to consult with a specialist or even entrust him with this part of the installation work.
Sewerage supply
Before installing the frame, it is necessary to take care of the correct supply of the sewer pipe to the installation site. You will need a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. It should be laid as close to the floor as possible, while it is imperative to maintain the correct slope.
The connection point must be 250 mm from the center of the wall niche. An oblique outlet with an angle of 45 degrees is put on the horizontal part of the pipe. After completing these operations, you can proceed with the installation of the installation.
Installation of a frame with a tank
Four points are provided for mounting the toilet installation. In two places the legs of the frame are fixed to the floor, and in two more places the frame is fixed to the wall with brackets. In this case, it is imperative to use the building level so that the structure is perfectly level both vertically and horizontally.
If the installation is installed even with a slight distortion, interruptions may occur in the operation of the internal mechanism, which will lead to an early breakdown of the structure. To align the vertical position of the frame, use adjustable legs.
The horizontal position is set using wall mounts, the position of which can also be changed as needed. Once the position of the installation is accurately aligned and fixed, it can be screwed to the wall. To make the frame more stable, the legs can be additionally cemented.
A screed layer 20 cm high will be sufficient, but this measure is not mandatory.
At the bottom of the installation there are several holes for further installation of the hinged bowl. The distance between the floor and these holes should be approximately 300-400 mm so that the toilet bowl can be hung high enough from the floor. Special studs should be installed in these holes.
They are inserted all the way into the wall and secured with special nuts. The studs are designed for subsequent hanging of the toilet bowl.
Connecting communications
You should start by connecting the sewer. Typically, the installation is completed with a special black outlet designed for this connection. It should be fitted to the sewer pipe. The other side of the outlet is attached to the installation with special clips.
Connection to the water supply is made on the right or left side of the installation. The water pipe is connected using a threaded connection already installed in the structure.
Ordinary flexible hoses can also be used to bring water to the tank. This is an easy-to-install and low-cost option, but hoses have a shorter lifespan than pipes, so complex repairs must be considered to replace them.
At this stage, it is necessary to check the reliability of the connection of the tank with the plumbing system. To do this, open the water supply valve, which is located inside the tank, and fill the container. All connections are then checked for leaks and repaired if necessary. It is not necessary to drain the water.
Checking the sewer connection can be done as follows: put a bowl on the studs and perform a test flush without fixing the structure.
After that, the bowl should be removed from the mount, check for the presence or absence of leaks, and then continue installation.
Finishing work
If the installation is installed correctly, and the tank does not leak, you need to sew up the niche with a sheet of drywall and perform finishing work. It is recommended to take a double sheet of special moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary drywall will soon be damaged due to contact with condensate.
To correctly cut all the mounting holes in the sheet and not spoil the material, use a template for cutting. Typically, such a template comes with the installation.
In the bathroom, the walls are most often tiled with ceramic tiles. Further work on the installation of a wall-mounted toilet can only be started after this stage is completed.
It will not be a mistake to even completely complete the renovation of the bathroom, and only then proceed with the installation of the wall-mounted toilet with the installation.
Installing a wall hung toilet
This stage can be called the simplest, since the bulk of the work has already been completed. But first, it is recommended to wait until the tile adhesive layer has completely dried. Perform the installation of the toilet bowl as follows:
- Adjust the dimensions of the outlet of the drain tank, which should protrude 50 mm beyond the wall.
- In the same way, the pipe intended for the sewer drain is cut.
- Install the pipes in the places intended for them.
- A special large-sized gasket is put on the previously installed studs and pipes; in configuration, it looks like a truncated pyramid.
- Put the toilet bowl on the studs, securely connecting it to the nozzles.
- Install plastic inserts and rubber gaskets.
- Put on and tighten the fixing nuts.
- Cut off the protruding part of the rubber gasket.
After that, you can check the operation of the sewer by flushing water from the tank into the toilet bowl. To adjust the height of the toilet bowl above the floor, you can change the position of the retractable pins and studs designed to hang the bowl. In this case, they are usually guided by the growth of the visitor.
The universal height is considered to be a distance of 40 cm from the edge of the bowl to the floor level.
Mounting the flush button
It remains to install the flush button. It can be pneumatic or mechanical. This is not a difficult operation, since all connections are already provided on the installation and must already be routed to the appropriate hole on the wall.
To install a mechanical button, you will need to install special pins and then adjust their position. The pneumatic model only needs to be attached to the tedious tubes on the installation, and it will be ready to go.
Installing a hanging toilet with installation: do-it-yourself step-by-step installation (video)
Features of the toilet device with installation. Recommendations for the correct installation of a wall-hung toilet. Step-by-step instruction. Photo and video.
Reading time ≈ 3 minutes
Space saving and aesthetic features are the main advantages of a wall-mounted toilet, therefore, choosing this option, its owner will certainly not lose. If there are no special questions with the installation of the toilet bowl, then its suspended “brother” will require manual dexterity due to the presence of an additional link in the bathroom - the installation. Do-it-yourself installation of a toilet installation does not provide for complexity if you have all the necessary construction tools and do the work in stages.
The uninterrupted functioning of the sanitary ware depends on the installation sequence of the toilet installation. First of all, its installation itself is carried out, then sewerage is connected, visible elements are camouflaged and finished. For clarity, below is a photo and video of the installation installation under the toilet, which will greatly simplify the perception of information.
Preparatory stage
First of all, along with the toilet, you need to purchase an installation system. Unlike bidets, there is a wide selection of their manufacturers on the market today. By their principle, they all represent a flush-mounted frame. But here, as they say, to each his own.
Of the tools you need a puncher or drill, a concrete drill with a diameter equal to the hole of the fasteners, wrenches, a building level, a pencil and a tape measure.
When all the necessary construction equipment is at hand, we proceed to markup and prepare the fastener system. It is important to measure the gap from the installation system to the wall surface and mark the location of the cistern. It will be correct to install it at a height of 100 cm from the floor.
Do not forget about fixing the installation itself: it is necessary to mark the points for fasteners on the surface of the wall and floor. In this case, special attention should be paid to fasteners. Using a perforator, holes are drilled according to the marks made earlier, where anchors with dowels are inserted.
Installing the installation of hanging toilets
The toilet installation installation scheme has a clear sequence:
- a frame is mounted on a pre-prepared place, which is fixed with special adjusting nuts and screws;
- the installation body is adjusted horizontally and vertically;
- the horizontal level is set by adjusting the design of the legs, and the vertical level by adjusting the thread of the anchor.
Having completed the installation of the installation under the toilet, it is necessary to bring the toilet to the sewer pipe. It was important to pre-install a drain pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and supply water.
Regarding the water supply to the tank, experts recommend using a rigid pipe instead of a flexible one. Pipes from the drain tank and the sewer pipe are attached to fixing plastic clamps.
Finally, before installing the plumbing product, we once again check the tightening of all elements. Finally, we put on PVC couplings, install a shock-absorbing gasket and a toilet bowl.
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