How to dry the cellar garage from dampness. How to effectively dry the cellar from moisture and condensation? Fast drying with a roaster

Owners of private houses should have an idea how to dry the basement when the humidity level rises.

Dampness in the cellar can lead to different reasons: flood, penetration ground water, the appearance of condensation on the walls.

Sometimes it is possible to get rid of moisture quickly and without serious financial costs.

In other cases, in order to dry the cellar, serious construction work and some financial injections will be required.

It was necessary to take care of waterproofing and ventilation of the basement at the construction stage. But steps can be taken to eliminate high humidity and in the finished building.

How to prevent dampness at the construction stage:

When building a cellar in a private house or garage, do not use bricks and porous materials (foam and expanded clay blocks, shell rock). best material for walls and floors - this is concrete;
Carry out construction work in summer in dry weather to prevent groundwater from entering the pit;
Make waterproofing walls and floors;
Take care of ventilation. Properly organized air exchange will prevent the appearance of condensate on the walls and the appearance of mold;
Pay attention to the groundwater level, if there is a risk of flooding, make an external or internal drainage system.

If groundwater does not rise above floor level, then bitumen or heated mastic can be used to waterproof the basement.

After being applied to the walls and ceiling, the materials polymerize and form on the surface protective film. A more reliable method of protection is penetrating waterproofing.

The material impregnates the walls, while changing their structure. Penetrating insulation reliably plugs all microcracks, makes concrete more frost-resistant and strong.

There is also membrane-type waterproofing based on polymers. After application, the material transforms into a membrane that is impermeable to water.

Properly organized ventilation in the basement consists of an exhaust duct and supply openings.

The exhaust duct is installed in one of the corners of the room, on the ceiling or on the top of the wall.

The upper end of the pipe is located 0.5 meters above the ridge part of the roof. The air duct is installed strictly vertically, in order to reduce the amount of condensate, its outer part should be insulated.

Fresh air is supplied through the supply opening to the basement, the air duct is installed in the corner opposite from the hood.

Moreover, the lower part of the channel should be located 30 cm from the floor. The supply and exhaust openings are closed mosquito net. Such ventilation works under the influence of natural traction force.

Fresh air enters lower part basement, gradually warms up, rises and is removed through the exhaust hole.

The best time to drain a basement in a house or garage is summer. Old stocks have almost come to an end, and the period of new blanks has not yet begun.

Previously, the basement is completely freed from stocks of fruits, vegetables and conservation. It is also necessary to dismantle and remove all structures intended for storing supplies.

The doors to the room should be left open for several days, thanks to which the basement can be quickly dried from the settled condensate.

While the room is ventilated, take care of the structures taken out of the basement. wooden shelves dry in the sun and wash with soapy water.

In conclusion, the tree is covered with a layer of whitewash with the addition of copper sulfate. To destroy mold, you can burn the structures with a blowtorch.

Metal elements also need to be dried, then cleaned of rust and painted.

After airing the basement, the walls and floor are cleaned of debris and treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

In order to finally destroy mold and larvae of harmful insects, it is recommended to fumigate the basement after airing with special smoke bombs with sulfur.

You can buy them in stores selling agricultural equipment.

If the basement still has a high level of humidity and mold, then it is recommended to resort to one of the forced dehumidification options.

What additional devices can be used to dry the cellar in the house or garage:

Metal brazier - as a brazier, you can use an old metal bucket with holes made in the bottom for traction. You need to attach legs and a hook with a cable to the bucket, with which the brazier will go down. The bucket is filled with firewood or charcoal. After kindling the flame, the brazier goes down and is installed on a flat, non-combustible base. To completely dry the basement, the fire must burn for at least 12 hours. It is forbidden to go down into the basement during fumigation; to add fuel, the bucket must be pulled up. You can use the brazier to dry the cellar only in rooms with a concrete or earthen floor;
Candle - in order to dry the cellar after the penetration of groundwater, an ordinary lit candle is placed in an iron can and installed near the exhaust vent. The entrance doors remain open. The burning flame increases the draft, the air exchange is more intense, the stale air is replaced by hot streams from the street. In order to dry the underground, instead of a candle, you can use a burner with dry alcohol;
Electrical appliances - an infrared or oil heater is installed in the middle of the basement. This method can take a long time, so if possible, it is better to replace the heater with a heat gun. Thanks to high power heat gun, this method can be used to dry basements even after the penetration of sewage and groundwater.

Drainage system device

With a high level of groundwater, it is necessary to take care of the drainage system during the construction of the basement.

If this is not done, then the subfloor will periodically be subjected to flooding. Most commonly used outdoor system drainage, it can be built around an already finished building.

The main difficulty is that you will have to dig out the foundation around the entire perimeter of the building. If this is not possible, it is better to settle for more accessible internal drainage.

The basis of the drainage is a perforated pipe, through the holes of which groundwater and precipitation will seep. The pipe is laid at the level of the sole along the entire perimeter of the basement.

Keep in mind, internal drainage does not guarantee a 100% result. In addition, after the completion of all work, the basement will be at least 30 cm lower.

Therefore, this method is resorted to only as a last resort.

Internal drainage device:

Dry the basement well after groundwater penetration;
Waterproof walls, preferably with penetrating materials. As a last resort, use liquid rubber;
Dismantle the finishing floor (if any) and pour a layer of crushed stone on the base plate;
Lay perforated pipes on top of the crushed stone pillow and lead them outside the basement into a well to collect water;
On the crushed stone pillow lay a layer insulating material and do concrete screed. This will be the new floor.

External drainage device:

After removing the formwork, cover the foundation with waterproofing materials;
Dig a drainage trench around the foundation. The ditch should be located under a slope to the place of water collection (drainage well);
Dig up drainage well. It should be at a distance no further than 10-15 cm from the cellar. Strengthen the walls of the well casing pipe 300 mm in diameter and at least 3 m deep;
Make a trench for the pipe connecting the drainage and catchment well;
Place on the bottom drainage trench geotextile and pour a layer of gravel;
Lay drainage pipes, cover with gravel and overlap with geotextile edges;
Connect the drainage catchment well with a pipe;
Fill the trenches with the previously selected soil.

Construction work to be carried out better in summer. If the basement is located on a site with loose soils, then the walls of the trench must first be strengthened.

In most cases, the appearance of dampness in the basement of the garage is caused by mistakes made even at the stage of construction. And the most interesting: it is almost impossible to take into account all the nuances and foresee every possibility of moisture getting into the cellar. And it’s good if there is no groundwater around, and none of the neighbors are equipping in the immediate vicinity storm sewer. But a huge number of owners of garages with a basement in the spring and autumn still have to face a significant problem - how to dry the cellar. In this article, we will not only look at the main ways to dry out a room, but also provide some tips for proper basement waterproofing.

The prevention of dampness in the cellar should be considered at the planning stage of construction. When building a basement, in no case should porous materials such as expanded clay or foam blocks be used. It is also not recommended to use any type of brick, since in practice it is very problematic to ensure proper water resistance of this material. The best option is concrete, and not only for the bottom of the cellar, but also for all walls.

As building material for the basement of the garage is better to choose concrete

The next question that arises during the construction of a garage cellar is which design to choose - prefabricated or monolithic? Of course, a monolithic basement is less laborious, and its service life is much longer, but if you wish, you can also use foundation blocks.

Construction work is best done in the summer, when the water in the basement of the garage is extremely a rare thing. Then it will be possible to avoid the appearance of groundwater in the prepared pit.

How to dry the basement in the garage

Despite careful site selection, reinforced waterproofing and other measures to prevent dampness in the basement, it is not always possible to take into account every last detail. So, let's look at the main ways to dry the cellar in the garage.

Before proceeding with the waterproofing of an already built basement in the garage, you need to think about how to dry the damp cellar. It is best to do this during the warm season. To begin with, we take out everything that is there from the cellar, that is:

shelves;
racks;
boxes for vegetables.

After that, we thoroughly clean the floor from even the smallest debris. Now the room should dry out for two days naturally. Further (especially in the spring-autumn period), it is imperative to additionally dry the basement.

Drying method with a brazier

In order for the bucket to maintain the thrust necessary for normal combustion, it should be slightly modified by welding the legs and cutting holes in the bottom

One way to speed up the drying of the basement requires the presence of an old metal bucket. The bucket is placed in the middle of the cellar, a fire is made in it and maintained until the room is completely dry. Hot air creates forced circulation, and musty damp air is quickly forced out of the basement. An additional plus of the method is that smoke remarkably destroys mold and spores of bacteria in the walls, and also evicts unnecessary insects for a long time.

How to dry the basement of the garage with a brazier

Candle drying method

The second way to dry the basement is even easier than the previous one. All that is needed for him is to increase ventilation pipe to the floor and put a burning candle under it in a metal vessel (for example, in a tall tin can). Now, in order for the initial thrust to appear, we light a small piece of paper right in the pipe. Everything. Further, the necessary thrust will be maintained by the candle flame. Thus, in 3-4 days, replacing the cinder new candle, you can completely solve the problem of how to dry the basement in the garage.

How to dry the basement of the garage with a candle

Tip: instead of a candle, you can use a dry fuel tablet.

Only after completely drying every square centimeter of the basement of the garage, you can begin work on waterproofing.

Ways to waterproof the cellar in the garage

Usually, to protect against moisture, already at the stage of building a basement, special waterproofing additives are added to the concrete, which enhance the protective properties of the material from moisture and groundwater. Consider a few more ways to protect the cellar from dampness and humidity.

How to make external drainage

The surest way to keep your basement from getting wet is to divert groundwater away from the foundation either into a storm drain or off site. True, this method is suitable, both in terms of efficiency and economy, only for detached buildings, and not for parking lots, garage cooperatives and basements. big houses.

Tip: the external drainage system is best done at the same time as construction basement garage.

The right device cellar external drainage

External drainage device technology:

Along the entire perimeter of the basement, it is required to dig a trench, 0.4 m deep below the level of the cellar floor and 0.4 m wide. At the same time, every 2 meters, wells are drilled to the sand layer, in which plastic pipes for drainage are installed. To prevent crumbling soil and gravel from entering the opening of the drainage pipes, they must be covered with a fine galvanized grate.
After that, the bottom of the trench is covered with geotextiles (to avoid silting) in such a way that the ends of the material go out to the walls of the recess, and the trenches themselves are filled with gravel or crushed stone to a height of about 0.4 meters (it is necessary to ensure that the upper edge of the backfill layer is slightly higher than the lower edge cellar walls).
From above, the rubble is wrapped with the remains of geoseptic matter. The result of all these manipulations will be a horizontal drainage pipe around the entire garage, preventing groundwater from entering its perimeter, as well as their accumulation.
Next, we fill the trench with soil in several stages, carefully tamping each layer to prevent shedding of the structure.

Important: when drilling wells, it is necessary to ensure that they do not go deep into the sandy layer, and also that they do not get into the drainage system wastewater from sewer system, since continental sands are aquifer, which contains drinking water. If you allow drains to get in, it is you and your household that will suffer in the first place.

Internal drainage device

If the question often arises of how to quickly dry a large cellar, then it is worth equipping it with an internal drainage system. For this, interconnected pipes are located along the entire perimeter of the building, into which water flows into the basement.

For draining a garage cellar on a modern construction market presented wide range of specially designed pipes different diameter: perforated, corrugated, with stiffeners. Pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are distinguished by the greatest efficiency. Drains must be equipped with special holes located along the entire length of the pipe at an equal distance from each other.

Tip: Internal drainage is best done before the floor is built. Otherwise, it will have to be broken.

Internal drainage device technology:

A trench is dug along the entire perimeter of the basement to a depth of 0.4 m.
The bottom is carefully compacted and geoseptic material is spread on it.
The trench is filled up to 0.15 m with gravel or crushed stone.
On top of the backfill layer, drains are laid at a slope of 3 mm for each meter of pipe length.
Drainage pipes are completely covered with medium-sized gravel (5-15 mm) so that the holes are not clogged with smaller particles and are covered with geotextile.
The trench is completely covered with sand and compacted.
To collect water from pipes at the lowest point of the basement, a collection well should be arranged. Now you can buy ready-made industrial PVC wells up to 3 m high, which are lightweight and durable. But some prefer to make their own concrete well, which greatly increases the amount of work.
A drainage pump is installed in the well, which turns on automatically when the float in the well reaches a certain level. When the float is lowered to its initial position, the pump motor is switched off.

Tip: the place where the pumped water will be discharged must be taken care of in advance. To do this, a hose is connected to the pump, drawn either outside the site or in local system sewerage.

Interesting: instead of a well, you can use an ordinary two-hundred-liter barrel, but in this case you will need to regularly ventilate the basement of the garage.

Basement Injection Protection

This innovative method is one of the most expensive, in addition, it requires certain skills and special equipment, as a result of which such work should be entrusted to professionals, rather than trying to do it on your own. Waterproofing by injection is effective even for objects built of brick, foam block and cinder block.

Injection waterproofing technology

Holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 4 mm are drilled along the perimeter of the structure at a distance of 20 to 80 cm from each other, depending on the wall thickness, soil density and other influencing factors.
Expanding packers are installed in the holes, into which insulating substances are introduced under high pressure using a special pump.

The undoubted advantage of the method is that such waterproofing can be carried out at any time without opening the floors, foundation and without removing the cladding. In addition, polymer waterproofing agents are very durable and environmentally friendly. clean materials, and due to their low viscosity, they are able to fill even the smallest cracks in walls and foundations.

Works on injection waterproofing: Polymers are introduced under pressure into the holes formed around the perimeter

Penetrating waterproofing

Most effective way garage cellar waterproofing is a method using penetrating waterproofing.

The principle of operation of penetrating waterproofing is to block pores and capillaries through the creation of new structural compounds.

This type of material makes it possible to quickly and efficiently cover not only surfaces in the basement, but also all concrete and even brick surfaces. High efficiency when working with wet objects, it allows you to work from the inside, avoiding the exhausting excavation of the outer walls.

The waterproofing mixture is diluted with ordinary water, and the resulting solution is applied to a pre-moistened surface. The mixture, having entered into a violent reaction with water on the surface of the insulated objects, forms crystals that completely fill the capillaries of concrete or brick.

After the basement is completely dry and waterproofed, you can bring back the shelves, boxes and racks. Before that, they must be thoroughly washed and treated with an antiseptic solution, for example, copper sulfate (today this is one of the cheapest, but highly effective ways to protect against mold).

Excess moisture in the cellar occurs due to various factors. The root cause is usually an initially improperly designed and built room for storing vegetables, fruits and conservation. If there is already a problem, there are well-established, time-tested budget ways to dry out the cellar. More convenient methods have also appeared, but rather energy-intensive and costly in terms of money. But in any case, after drying the cellar, it is recommended to disinfect it.

Prevention of moisture accumulation in the cellar

In order not to run into a problem in the future, how to dry the cellar in a garage or a private house from dampness, on early stages construction, care must be taken to comply with all norms and rules for ventilation and waterproofing (vapor barrier) of the premises.

Walls and floors are best poured with concrete based on high-quality cement (to save money, it is allowed to add low-quality substances to the solution to improve moisture repellency).
With the proximity of groundwater, external waterproofing will be required. It can be both in liquid form and rolled. Protection against water is selected according to the criterion of reliability and financial capabilities.
If the cellar is designed on a slope, then drainage pipes will be an indispensable addition in the fight against the penetration of moisture into the storage.
It is necessary to make a special blind area around the entrance to the cellar, to prevent precipitation from entering it.
In the basement, a supply air and exhaust ventilation in different corners of the vault (diagonally). Diameter 12.5 cm is optimal size for ventilation ducts or pipes. The first pipe is installed without bringing it to the floor 10-15 cm - it will be responsible for the flow of air from the outside. The second, for the hood, is fixed below the ceiling level within 10-2o cm. All ventilation is protected from direct precipitation and debris, but with a good gap. It makes sense to fix a device on the exhaust duct to stabilize the draft and circulation. Ventilation pipes are installed vertically, do not tilt the pipe more than 30°. The length of the channel with a slope cannot exceed one meter.
The room for storing fruits and vegetables in the garage or under the house is insulated with a vapor barrier to reduce the possible penetration of moisture into the lower (basement, cellar, cellar) and upper levels of the premises (rooms of the house, garage, utility block).

Storage floor structure

The main cause of waterlogging of the cellar are closely spaced groundwater. The initial competent floor device will prevent the problem of excessive moisture in the basement. There are several ways to install a waterproofing floor.

Most often, the floor remains earthen. Water from the lower layers through the capillaries penetrates the floor surface. To prevent the need to dry the cellar from dampness, the earthen floor is leveled, tamped and covered with a dense film or roofing material. To protect the coating from tearing or breaking, apply wooden shields(possible causes of pavement failure: foot pressure, installation of drawers with sharp corners, inadvertent displacement of heavy objects).
An earthen floor can be reinforced with clay padding, that is, covering the entire floor with a compacted mixture of clay and sand. This operation, which allows you to dry the basement by building a natural barrier to the exit of moisture, is carried out in four stages:

One layer of crushed stone or broken brick is poured onto the pre-leveled earthen floor of the cellar, and the space between the stones is filled with a thick mixture of clay with the addition of sand (clay is taken with a good percentage of fat content, and the floor level should rise by 15 cm after pouring).
The clay is rammed very tightly.
Scatter sand on the compacted floor and rub it. The excess is removed with a broom and a scoop.
The created clay floor must be well dried for two to four weeks.

The most profitable way to improve the waterproofing of the floor and avoid the regular drying of the cellar is to make it concrete and with a good drainage system. True, this is the most expensive method, requiring special knowledge and skills.

If, after all the manipulations with the floor, the level of humidity in the basement or garage drops significantly, then you will no longer need to worry about how to dry the cellar from dampness every year (especially during the spring rise of groundwater).

Improving wall waterproofing

Weak moisture insulation of the walls of structures is another reason for waterlogging the basement of a garage or a separately equipped cellar. Brick walls have many pores through which moisture penetrates and condenses out. The problem is solved in several ways:

Create external insulation against moisture. If possible, remove the soil from the walls and apply a two-layer bitumen mastic or resin.
Make an internal waterproofing layer (use special impregnations with a penetration depth of up to 0.5 m, clogging the pores of the cellar walls).

Good supply and exhaust ventilation and sufficient waterproofing of the floor and walls will be the key to a dry basement. But how to dry the cellar when the water has already penetrated inside and began its negative impact? The choice of method of dealing with dampness depends on the presence of ventilation in the cellar.

Dehumidification of a ventilated basement

In the basement of any type, a number of works will have to be carried out, but first it is necessary to remove the stocks stored there, dismantled structures (shelves, racks, decks), storage containers (boxes, boxes, barrels) from the cellar. All wood structures must be dried in the sun and treated with a 5-10% solution of copper sulfate, regardless of whether they have been damaged by pathogenic microflora.
The second step is to whitewash the walls with a double layer of lime.

Lime is diluted so that the solution does not drain from paint brush(you can add a 5-8% solution of copper sulfate).
Divide the lime mash into two equal parts.
The first part, with the help of a paint brush, is spaced in the corners of the cellar and thrown with force on the walls (you can also on the ceiling), not trying to get a flat surface, but not forgetting about safety.
A day later, the second part of the solution is also smeared on the walls.

As a result, on the third day, the inner surfaces of the cellar become porous and bumpy. Moisture in the form of condensate is not retained on them, as lime takes water into itself. As soon as it dries upper layer lime, it is worth starting to dry the basement.

Cellar drying scheme with ventilation

1. Check if the ventilation is properly arranged (if the defects are not corrected, the cellar will have to be dried again, almost a couple of days after the drying procedure).

2. Check the cleanliness of the ventilation ducts or pipes (remove all dirt, mold or moss).

3. Strengthen the air ventilation process:

Installation of a fan on the exhaust pipe. With open doors and hatches, the cellar will dry out (depending on the amount of accumulated moisture and weather conditions) between 3 and 10 days.
Organization of ventilation enhancement using a small heating device (candle, dry alcohol tablet, alcohol burner). To do this, increase the ventilation pipe above the ceiling so that it can be substituted under it a heating element on a non-flammable base. Warm air will increase circulation and speed up the drying of the basement.

4. Warm up the cellar if forced ventilation has not coped with drying out the basement. The process of drying by heating is carried out in stages:

We take a metal bucket (preferably not new).
We make a lot of holes in it, both in the walls and at the bottom.
falling asleep charcoal almost to the top of the container.
We kindle the contents of the bucket and wait for a steady burning.
We lower a bucket of coal inside the cellar on a leash (the bucket should hang in the immediate vicinity of the bottom of the storage and a refractory substrate should be placed under it).
We close the cellar lid tightly (as tightly as possible so that the smoke goes into the ventilation).
We periodically open the manhole cover to let oxygen into the room to be dried or increase ventilation with a vacuum cleaner through the supply pipe.
We take out a bucket with burnt coals.
Seal the lid tightly for three to four days.
We ventilate the dried and disinfected cellar.

Do not forget that the decision on how to dry the cellar must be safe both for those who warm up and for the room itself. Combustion is always fire, smoke, carbon monoxide.

With this method of draining the basement, the bucket can be replaced with other heating devices. Quite suitable small stove- bourgeois, heat gun with good power (more than 3 kW), serviceable kerogas, gas burner (careful - open fire).

Drying the cellar without ventilation

A cellar that is not equipped with ventilation naturally accumulates dampness. Here the question arises: how to dry the cellar without ventilation and at the same time not harm health with smoke or carbon monoxide? The answer is obvious - it is impossible to do. We'll have to install at least the simplest ventilation.

Prior to the installation of ventilation ducts, moisture can be collected in the basement in several simple ways. To do this, you need materials with a high level of hygroscopicity:

Sawdust - regularly change wet to dry.
Calcium chloride - place around the perimeter and in the center of the cellar (you can ignite, not forgetting that it is caustic, and use it many times).
Slaked lime - spread along the walls and on the shelves.
Ordinary thick cardboard from furniture packaging or boxes - lay out dry and change when wet.

In addition, there are high-tech ways to dry the cellar from dampness. For example, dehumidifiers, which are most often used for rooms where there is open water (pool, jacuzzi, decorative pond). True, the cost of a dehumidifier ranges from 20 thousand rubles and more. But they will regularly perform their function when draining a damp basement, it is only necessary to drain the water they have collected in time.

Ways to combat pathogenic microorganisms

Excess moisture, not dried in time in the cellar, leads to the mass development of harmful microorganisms. All kinds of molds and fungi multiply intensively and harm both all wooden structures and those stored in open form products. Spores of harmful microflora have a very detrimental effect on a person who is in an infected basement.
There are the following available funds to combat pathogenic microorganisms:

Quicklime (set a barrel of lime in the ratio of 3 kilograms of dry lime per 1 cubic meter of volume, fill it with water, leave the room, seal the basement, ventilate it in two days).
Sulfur checker (you must first take out metal objects from the cellar or cover them with a layer of grease. Install the checker on a fireproof stand, set fire to the wick, trying not to inhale smoke, quickly leave the room to be treated, close the hatch and ventilation tightly, ventilate every other day for a day).

How to deal with moisture after flooding the cellar

Cellar flooding can occur due to rising groundwater, rainfall intrusion, or accidental flooding. The reason is not important when it comes to deciding how to drain the cellar from groundwater or how to dry the basement in the garage from excess moisture. The scheme is simple:

Pump out water from the storage floor with a pump or drain pump.
Clear out the basement.
Dry a couple of days with an open hatch and ventilation.
Collect garbage.
Whitewash with lime.
Dry the cellar in one of the above ways.

There are settlements where basements of private houses and cellars are regularly flooded. In this case, it is necessary to strengthen the drainage of the floor.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, a production building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved by the forced flow method. This task used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and a system test report internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the object.

A visual check should be accompanied by inclusion in the act of testing internal sewerage systems and drains according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the Appendix of the D series, which complies with SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", in Lately the new updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85 is applicable.

To improve the use of window technologies, not the last place is played by metal tides on windows, which are the most important detail in decorating window groups for the facade of a building. The main and, perhaps, one of the leading values of metal tides on exterior windows is protection against moisture ingress, prevention of exposure to precipitation and other negative factors, which are typical for natural phenomena. The ingress of moisture without the presence of ebb leads to rapid destruction structural elements buildings, reduce the performance of the property as a whole.

Additionally, a metal tide with a polymer coating plays not only a protective function, but also original decorative characteristics, giving high aesthetics to the facade of the building as a whole. Installation is carried out both at the stage of completion of construction, and in the process of carrying out finishing works for window openings or for the facade of a property. The priority and rational option is the installation of a metallic brown tint with a diameter of 5 cm before the completion of the finishing process of the building. In this situation, the installation will be less expensive and allows you to detect defects in a timely manner. The second option is also common, but it requires extreme accuracy, and in some cases it is necessary to invest additionally cash in order to achieve a high design solution.

Almost any experienced builder and expert will tell you that the Grand Line gutter system is the epitome of unsurpassed quality and reliability in operation. If we look at the installation instructions for the Grand Line gutter system, we will note that turnkey solutions have high European quality of execution. Main technical components and assemblies are made of hot-rolled galvanized steel roof type, which has a double-sided polymer coating based on polyurethane. The modern Grand Line gutter system is not subject to corrosion, has a sufficient service life, and is not affected by external factors, including negative impact ultraviolet, aggressive materials of a chemical nature that can get into melt or rain water.

The Grand Line drainage system brand first saw the light in 2005, and since that time the products have been repeatedly modernized and improved, as a result of which it was possible to design a drainage system for a residential building or production building at the factory. It should also be noted that the composition of the Grand Line gutter system is being improved every year, and high-quality polyvinyl chloride, improved galvanized steel, modern materials based on plasticizers and stabilizers, as well as imported plasticizers. All these factors make it possible to operate the popular Grand Line drains in any climate zone peace.

Sometimes, despite the ventilation system arranged in the cellar, dampness still occurs there. It may appear as a result of insufficiently reliable waterproofing of the walls, or when placed on shelves and in chests, it is not completely dried vegetables. In addition, the ventilation itself can be the cause of high humidity, during the calculation and installation of which miscalculations were made.

How to dry the cellar on your own and extend its functionality, as well as prevent future accumulation of condensate on the walls, ceiling and floor? This question arises quite often among the owners of private houses, since the appearance of dampness in basements and cellars is by no means uncommon.

The process of drying the cellar or basement, of course, is carried out in the summer, when the temperature outside contributes to this event.

First of all, while drying the room, it is necessary to dismantle and remove all accessories and structures intended for storing supplies - these are boxes, boxes, shelves and racks. It will be more convenient to take them out to the street for airing exactly in summer period, since at this moment there are almost no last year's stocks left in the cellar, and new ones have not yet been prepared, and the shelves are usually almost empty.
Then, you need to open the door or hatch at the entrance to the cellar or basement and leave it in this position for two or three days, naturally, if the days are fine. During this time, fresh air will begin the process of weathering moisture from the room. If normal ventilation is arranged in the cellar, then the pre-ventilation procedure will be much faster. At the same time, it will be possible to check how efficiently the ventilation system works - perhaps it needs preventive cleaning.
It is possible that a certain thermostatic equilibrium has developed in the system - heavy and humid cold air is very “reluctantly” rising through the exhaust pipe. So, it is necessary to stimulate the initial natural cravings. This can be done by setting fire to a torch made of thick paper and bringing it to the outlet for a short time. Hot smoke, leaving the hole, will pull the heavy one, and ventilation will improve.
In case of strong humidity, with abundant condensation on the walls and on the ceiling, you can bring a box with a material that absorbs atmospheric moisture well into the cellar. It can be charcoal or even dry lime.
While airing is in progress, you can come to grips with the wooden structures taken out of the cellar. Direct sunlight will have a beneficial effect on their condition - this will contribute not only to drying, but also to the death of mold or fungus colonies that cannot withstand ultraviolet rays. Too raw parts can be burned in the flame of a blowtorch.

- All wooden parts must be washed with soapy water with the addition of soda. You can use a formalin solution that has good antiseptic properties. For greater effect, this solution can be “flavored” with the addition of copper sulfate.

- After washing and drying, chests, boxes, shelves and other parts taken out into the air can be covered with a layer of whitewash with the addition of a solution of copper sulfate (about 100 g per bucket of finished lime).

It would be useful to fumigate the room with sulfur - it leads to the death of microorganisms, insects, and prevents the invasion of rodents. To do this, use special smoke bombs, which can be purchased at agricultural equipment stores. It is clear that when carrying out such fumigation, all precautions must be strictly observed, since the smoke from these checkers is very harmful to the human respiratory system.

After the initial ventilation, it is necessary to clean the walls and floor of the cellar from plaque and debris. All surfaces should be treated with a "strong" solution of potassium permanganate. If there is an earthen floor in the cellar, then it makes sense to cut off the top layer of soil, as it is often affected by putrefactive bacteria or mold. Instead, you can make a backfill with clean, dry sand.

If the measures taken are not enough, and the humidity in the cellar remains high, then you can proceed to the final drying of the room, which can be carried out in several ways.

Methods for forced drying of the cellar

Using the brazier

For a long time, the method of drying the cellar using a brazier, which you can make yourself from an old metal bucket or other container, has been used.

Fire can be made right in it, having previously made several holes in its lower part to create traction. You can install and cast iron or homemade, from metal rod, grate, and cut the bottom completely. Be sure to provide legs, approximately 100 ÷ 150 mm high. In addition, a hook with a cable or wire is being prepared, on which the brazier will be lowered into the cellar.

The location of the future installation of this brazier must be free of any flammable materials. If the floor in the cellar is wooden non-removable, then it is forbidden to use this method.

Charcoal or firewood can be loaded into the prepared brazier, fire is kindled with the help of splinters or liquid for fireplaces. Then, the brazier is lowered down on a cable. It remains to monitor the combustion and the need to add fuel. Due to the blowing from below, a strong draft will be created in the brazier. The fire must burn continuously, for 10 ÷ 12 hours.

Hot air will quickly fill the room, warming it up and weathering it. unpleasant odors mustiness, as well as disinfecting surfaces with smoke. In a well-dried and smoke-smelling room, colonies of microorganisms or harmful insects should not develop.

It is best to install the brazier, if possible, in the middle of the cellar, then the smoke will evenly cover the entire room and go into the ventilation pipe. For this drying method, it would be optimal to use dry birch or linden poles, since this wood has disinfectant properties and removes unpleasant odors well.

Going down into the cellar during such fumigation is strictly prohibited - it is deadly. All actions with the brazier are performed only on the street, after raising it to the surface on cable .

Drying the cellar with a candle

Another, quite popular way is to dry the cellar with an ordinary candle. It is installed in an iron can and placed near the exhaust ventilation pipe, and the front door or hatch is kept open for drying.

It is advisable to place the candle as close to the floor surface as possible. At the same time, the exhaust pipe is increased with an additional tin link.

It would seem that a very small candle flame creates intense traction, so the air circulation inside the room is accelerated. The faster the accumulated stale air in the cellar comes out, the faster fresh warm air from the street will get there. In this case, the drying of the entire room is not due to its heating, but precisely because of check quick air change, that is, intensive ventilation.

The candle, if desired, can be replaced with an alcohol burner.

A similar ventilation process can last several days, depending on the humidity of the cellar. A burnt-out candle is replaced as many times as necessary until all surfaces of the cellar are dry.

Use of dry alcohol

This method practically does not differ in its technology from the one described above - instead of a candle, dry sleep tablets are used. However, it also has its own advantage.

Use of electrical appliances

Drying the cellar with the help of various can be attributed to the fourth method. A heater can be used for this. closed type, such as oil, infrared, or convector. It is installed in the middle of the cellar with the expectation that thermal radiation will spread evenly over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

Naturally, if there is an earthen floor in the cellar, then a rigid base must be prepared for the heater.

If a decision is made to dry with an electric heater, you need to be patient, as this process can be delayed. You also need to remember that heaters, as a rule, always have a high power consumption, and this event will cost a lot. Therefore, if it is possible to use another method of drying, it is better to refuse such a method.

Separately, it should be said about the heat generator (it is often called a heat gun), which is very often used for drying various premises. And, it is used not only for drying rooms with high humidity, but also for rooms that were in flooded houses. Thanks to the power of thermal radiation and the fan built into such a gun, the drying of the cellar is quite fast. Although such a heater also consumes a lot of electricity, the drying process can be even cheaper, weeks using conventional heaters, due to the fact that the procedure takes much less time.

Application of forced ventilation

Some owners of private houses with cellars are not very puzzled over the question of how to dry their pantry. They open the front door leading to the basement several times during the summer period and install a fan in the middle of the opening or on the stairs, which will increase the movement of air. In this case, the drying of the surfaces will take place not under the influence of heat, but by weathering excess moisture.

This drying method is best suited for cellars where an exhaust vent is installed and the process will take from three to five days, depending on the volume of the room.

Folk craftsmen invent and own designs with large and small fans, for example, temporarily or even permanently embedding them in the exhaust ventilation pipe. With an example similar design can be seen by watching the attached video:

Video: homemade duct fan for drying the cellar

Using a portable stove

Many are accustomed to drying their pantries with the help of small, wood-heated ones. The pipe from the furnace is brought to exhaust port and opens Entrance door or sunroof. To achieve the desired success, this event is carried out for 3-4 days. The generated draft promotes good air circulation. In addition, direct thermal radiation from the walls of the potbelly stove also plays a role.

This drying method is quite fire hazardous. In addition, it cannot be used if the exhaust ventilation duct executed from plastic pipe, which simply begins to melt from the high temperature of the exhaust smoke. You can, of course, use a flexible fireproof sleeve or a prefabricated metal structure to organize a temporary chimney, but this looks too complicated and costly.

Processing the cellar after drying

After drying, before bringing in and installing all processed wooden structures, you should carefully check the condition of the floor and walls. Perhaps the reason for the increased humidity lies in the fact that they did not receive sufficient waterproofing, and ground moisture freely penetrates into the cellar. If so, then appropriate action should be taken.

If concrete surfaces were dried, then it is recommended to treat them with waterproofing compounds, which in the future will not allow excessive moisture to reappear in the cellar.

Today, a lot of materials are produced for waterproofing, but for concrete surfaces, an impregnating option is perfect, which is able to penetrate deep into the structure of concrete.

Impregnation is applied in several layers, each of which must penetrate to a certain depth and dry well. The composition closes all microscopic pores of concrete and crystallizes inside. It creates a reliable barrier to moisture, and at the same time leaves the material to "breathe".

It is necessary to work very carefully with impregnating waterproofing compositions, wearing a protective suit, gloves and a mask that covers the respiratory organs, otherwise you can get skin and mucous membrane burns. After absorption and polymerization, such a composition poses absolutely no danger to human health or to the safety of products.

Another option that is suitable for cellar waterproofing is the familiar roofing material. But this material can also be laid only on a concrete surface, which is pre-coated with mastic. Then the mastic is heated with a burner, roofing material is glued onto it and pressed well against the surface. Individual canvases are laid overlapping st on top of each other and form a solid surface, which also protects well from the appearance of moisture from the ground.

If it is not possible to use modern technologies for the arrangement of the cellar, or preference is given exclusively to natural materials, then you need to secure at least the floor of the room. To do this, you need a natural material - clay. This method of waterproofing the floor is called stuffing, and for it it is necessary to choose clay with the highest possible percentage of fat content. In addition, you will need stones or broken bricks, which will become a reinforcing link in creating a clay coating.

The stones are poured over the entire surface of the floor, and a solution of rubbed clay and a small amount of sand is laid out on top of them, 120 ÷ 150 mm thick. The consistency of the solution should be thick enough.
The clay is spread over the surface and then compacted between the stones with a rammer, adding mortar until it completely covers the stone mound.
After the floor becomes even and dense due to stones and tamping, coarse-grained sand is poured onto the still wet surface with a layer of 50 ÷ 70 cm. From the maximum possible it is compacted into a clay surface until it becomes dense. The remains of sand that could not be driven into clay are swept away from the surface. If you need a perfectly flat surface, then it is overwritten with a special wooden tool- grouts.

This is followed by a long drying of the clay floor with an open hatch or door to the cellar. This process can take from 15 to 40 days, so it is best to start work on it in early or mid-summer so that the surface is fully ready for use by autumn.

Cellar walls can also be plastered with clay. But first it is necessary to make a wire mesh on the walls, which is fixed to earthen surfaces with the help of wire brackets.

Then, a thick solution of clay is poured onto the reinforced base and left to dry. It is not necessary to level this layer. Next, the following layer clay mortar, which the usually leveled by hand, in a circular motion, or in the same way as the floor - with a wooden grout.

In addition to these types of waterproofing, there are others, for example, or glass. You can choose any of them, which seems more affordable, but waterproofing is a must. It will help protect the room from the penetration of ground dampness, and hence from the occurrence of fungal colonies and mold spots, the presence of which negatively affects the safety of vegetables and fruits.

After the drying and waterproofing work is fully completed, you can bring in and install all the items of the “interior” of the cellar. After competently and fully implemented preventive measures, the degree of safety of products placed for the winter will be much higher.