Balusters for stairs. What is a baluster? Types of wooden racks for fencing stairs. Flat wooden balusters

When assembling a railing for a staircase, you need to decide how to install balusters, racks, support pillars. Everything is not so simple, because the installation of balusters depends on the type of stairs, the material from which the stairs are made and the railing itself. At the same time, aesthetic preferences are also taken into account.

Number of balusters and supporting pillars

First of all, you need to decide whether one baluster will be on a step or two. Both options are acceptable. The second point: it is necessary to decide where and with what frequency the support pillars will stand. There are several options:

A large number of pillars on the stairs is necessary if the balusters are made thin or filling - not vertical, but longitudinal "threads" that do not carry the load, but perform protective and / or decorative functions.

Marking the place for poles and balusters

In any case, all poles and balusters on the span must be in a straight line. Moreover, if the radius / size of the balusters / support pillars is different, their centers are set on the same line. After installing all the balusters and pillars, if you look along the line, they should all be in the same plane.

The first stage of the installation of railings - marking the installation sites of pillars and balusters

At what distance from the edge of the step should the balusters be placed

On average, the center of the baluster is set at a distance of 6-10 cm from the edge, but it is also possible at the very edge. Choose how you like. But you need to choose this distance in order to determine the place where it will be necessary to make holes for mounting balusters.

There is an algorithm to determine the distance. It is usually assumed that the stair pillar or baluster should be at a distance of 2-5 cm from the side edge of the step. We divide the size of the post or baluster by two, add the selected distance to the edge and get the desired value.

Let's give an example, calculating the installation location of the baluster. Let them have a square section below, 80 * 80 mm. They should be 3 cm from the edge of the step. In total, we get: 8 cm/2 + 3 cm = 7 cm. 7 cm, from the edge - 3 cm. 7 cm / 2 + 3 cm = 6.5 cm. That is, in this case, a hole for mounting stair balusters is made at a distance of 6.5 cm from the edge of the step.

Algorithm for installing balusters

The process of marking balusters step by step can be described as follows:

The main task of this stage is to transfer the straight line to the steps as accurately as possible. The second is to choose such a distance between the pillars and balusters so that there are no differences noticeable to the eye. If you can’t do everything the same way, you can do it symmetrically - leave larger or smaller distances along the edges or alternate them after one or two. One-Stop Solutions no, because each staircase is unique, with its own parameters and features.

Handrail Assembly Order

In order for the installation of the railing on the stairs to take place without surprises, it is necessary to clearly understand the whole process.

The process is then repeated for the second span. The last thing that ends with the installation of the railing is the union of the supporting pillars at the turn. The specific method depends on the type and material of the handrail, but one must contrive to make this section a transition from one span to another, while being comfortable and not seem alien.

Fastening wooden balusters and poles

Many will agree that the installation of a railing is more difficult than the manufacture of the actual staircase: there are too many different nodes, there are no standard solutions suitable for everyone. This is where the difficulty lies. Perhaps the most difficult to install wooden railings. The material is plastic, but that's the problem: an element that is well fixed at the beginning, after a year or two, can hang out with a decent amplitude. Therefore, they approach the fastening of pillars and wooden balusters very, very carefully, play it safe, use combined methods, adding glue if possible. This makes the connections tighter.

Not the most elegant installation of wooden balusters on stone or concrete steps but reliable

In general, a baluster or a pillar is attached either to the step board itself, or to the stringer - it depends on the design of the stairs. Internal stairs on stringers are rarely made today, therefore, basically, we will talk about installing railings to the steps.

With the help of a bolt (capercaillie) to the step through

There is a simple option - through fastening of balusters and support pillars to the step. The only requirement: the thickness of the step must be decent - more than 40 mm.

In this case, for the installation of a baluster or pillars at a selected point, a through hole is made in the step board, through which a bolt with a diameter of at least 8-10 mm is passed through (12 and 14 mm are also possible, depending on the section of the baluster). The minimum length of the capercaillie is 80 mm (the rest can be cut off). A hole of a larger diameter is drilled under the bolt. After installation, it must be recessed so that at least 5 mm remains to the edge of the board. The resulting hole is closed with a decorative overlay (you can pick up a plastic suitable color or made from wood).

A bolt is inserted into the hole, a hole 2-3 mm smaller in diameter than the diameter of the bolt used is drilled in the center of the baluster. The specific diameter depends on the type of wood: the harder the wood, the smaller the difference between the diameters of the drill and the bolt should be. The depth of the hole is equal to the length of the bolt.

The bolt is screwed in from below, passes through the step, enters the body of the baluster. It is screwed onto a thread, exposed. Finally tighten from below with a socket wrench of the desired diameter. The option is good because, in theory, the connection can be tightened - if you remove the plug and, using the key, reduce the backlash. But the "tightening" works until the hole in the wood becomes too large from the backlash. And he (backlash) will appear sooner or later - from loads that are directed in different directions, from natural processes occurring in wood. So the connection is not permanent.

For dowel or threaded rod

If it is impossible to get close to the steps from below, there is an option for attaching balusters to dowels (50 * 10, 60 * 12, 70 * 14, 70 * 16 mm). Dowel choose large, large diameter. The installation of balusters in this case is as follows: a hole is drilled in the steps with a depth equal to half the length of the dowel. We drill the second same hole in the lower part of the baluster. Drill diameter - 1-2 mm smaller diameter dowel.

Epoxy glue is poured into both holes, the dowel is inserted into the hole in the steps until it stops, then a baluster is put on it. For greater reliability of such fastening, it is possible to coat the entire lower part of the baluster with glue.

One point: look for dowels from the same wood from which steps and railings are made. They have the same coefficient of thermal expansion, equally react to shrinkage, increase in humidity. This will make the connection more durable. Installing balusters on dowels is a traditional, but not the most reliable way today. Firstly, the dowels can break, and secondly, the connection itself is still loose. So in a few years you will have to look for a way to fix the dangling railing.

Instead of a dowel, you can use a threaded stud. The installation process of the baluster is no different. Everything is the same, only you can not fill the hole with glue, although ...

For self-tapping screws

The most “collective farm” way, which professionals do not like very much, but which is easier to understand and implement, is to install balusters on self-tapping screws. For fastening to steps, wood screws with a diameter of at least 6 mm and a length of 60 mm or more are used. Two are placed on each side (total, 8 screws for each).

The easiest and most "wrong" way. And one more thing: a lot of trouble in order to close unsightly traces

It is necessary to twist them at a half angle of 30-40 °, pre-drill holes for the caps. Install self-tapping screws, then close the holes with plugs cut from the same tree or cover with wood putty.

Using Zipbolt (Zipbolt)

A relatively new fastener that can be used to attach balusters to both steps and handrails. It is easy to use but expensive. If you install the railing with your own hands and "for yourself", this is a good option. Installing balusters with a zip bolt is also good because the connection can later be tightened, eliminating the resulting backlash.

The zip bolt is made up of threaded stud and removable gear head. There are two types:

of two movably interconnected threaded studs of approximately equal length;
from one threaded rod (type 13.600).

The variant with movably connected studs is good for connecting balusters and railings, railings with supporting pillars. A straight zip bolt is good for hidden connection of perpendicular bars. Just the case of installing balusters on the steps, supporting pillars on the floor, the ceiling of the second floor. The dimensions of this fastener are solid - a diameter of 8 mm, a length of 96 mm, so it will withstand the post well, and there is no doubt about the reliability of fastening the balusters.

The algorithm itself is similar to mounting on a stud: you need to drill a hole in the steps and balusters for the installation of a threaded stud. The length of the hole in both parts should be equal to the length of the stud, minus the height of the head.

The difference is that to install the head, you need a technological hole perpendicular to the main one. In size, it should be slightly larger than the diameter of the head, and its center should coincide with the axis of the hole for the stud. After the pin is installed, a removable gear head is inserted into the technological hole. It has special slots on the key. Install the head so that the slots are accessible. Using a 6 mm hex wrench, which is inserted into these slots, the head is turned all the way, pulling the baluster to and fixing the pin.

When installing the support posts of the railing on the floor using a zip bolt, questions may arise regarding the method of fastening. If the floor is wooden, the threaded part is simply screwed in. If the floor is concrete, you can use chemical anchors. If there are metal mortgages, the bolt can be welded. The last method, by the way, is the most reliable: at least the bolt will no longer hang out.

dovetail connection

Another way to connect balusters and steps is carpentry. With the help of a groove and a spike of a special shape - a dovetail. This option is possible if you make the balusters yourself or they have a solid margin in length at the bottom.

A similar installation of balusters is possible if the railing is planned to be made almost from the very edge of the steps. Then holes in the form of a trapezoid are cut in the steps from the end, the same ones are formed on the balusters. The ends of the cuts are lubricated with wood glue or epoxy resin, combined and fixed.

When fastening the dovetail, you can also strengthen the connection of the baluster and steps with nails

With this method of connection, the racks for some time - until the glue dries - must be fixed in a vertical state, as they may deviate. To do this, construct a temporary supporting structure, which is disassembled after the glue has hardened.

To make the steps look better on the side, the ends are covered with overhead decorative strips. Planks can be "planted" on glue, nails, screws, dowels. The choice is absolutely arbitrary, but the most correct and inconspicuous are dowels. Such installation of balusters is based entirely on the art of carpentry, it requires precise observance of dimensions.

Installation of balusters on a kosour (string)

When mounting balusters on a bowstring or stringer, you can use all the same methods of installing balusters: on dowels, studs, self-tapping screws, zip bolts. You can even make a dovetail, but you will have to cut it in a different plane, which is no more difficult, and perhaps even easier. For decoration, you can use strips on both sides.

The difference between mounting balusters on a kosour (string) is that the stand must be sawn at a certain angle so that they stand strictly vertically. But, in an angled surface, it is difficult to drill a hole that goes along the axis of the element. To avoid problems with this, first drill holes, then cut at the desired angle. A simple trick that makes the job a lot easier.

There is one specific method designed specifically for a ladder with a bowstring. They make a balustrade: a bar that “sits” on the bowstrings thanks to a groove cut out in the lower part. Racks are attached to the balustrade through and through - with bolts, dowels or self-tapping screws (the worst option). The choice is yours, and then the whole structure is installed on the bowstring. The connection is adhesive, you can use bots, self-tapping screws, nails for reliability. But they are for additional fixation.

There is another method that is usually used only for this type of stairs: the balusters are fastened with nails or self-tapping screws, decorative strips are installed on the sides, the gaps between the balusters are closed with fixing strips. With this method of fixation, you can also additionally use glue - it will not be superfluous.

A few words about improving reliability

All fastenings of balusters - on studs, self-tapping screws, dowels, bolts - become loose over time, a backlash appears. This is an inevitable process. Under load, the railing wobbles a little. At first, the deviation is fractions of a millimeter, absolutely imperceptible. With use, the deviation increases, the railing at hand is already noticeably “walking”. How softer wood, the faster the backlash appears. It has to be removed and redone. Here, in order to delay this moment to the maximum, they use any available additional fixation methods.

Most often, glue is used as an additional fixing force. You can take any carpentry or epoxy resin. It makes no sense to look for more expensive ones - these work very well. Glue is applied to all joints. You can even grease the screws / nails with glue. For better adhesion, the places where the glue will be applied are cleaned of dust / debris, wiped to remove greasy deposits.

Installation of metal balusters

Installation of metal balusters is easier: there are special clamps - thrust bearings that are screwed into the steps or to the side of the stairs. The baluster itself, the rack, the pillar are then attached to the installed elements. All you need to do is to pick up the elements of a suitable shape / size.

There is one point: most of fasteners suggests fixing balusters in them with clamping screws. So, the screws are not very reliable, such a connection quickly begins to “backlash”. Of course, they can be tightened a couple of times, but welding is much more reliable. If the thickness of the metal allows - from 1 mm or more - it is better to use.

Fasten to the step

The marking of the installation sites of metal balusters occurs as described above. First, we choose one rack each, it will stand on a step or two, then we distribute them so that all distances are the same. Heel pads are installed at the designated places. They usually "sit down" on 3-4 fasteners. Self-tapping screws are used if the steps are wooden or dowels are concrete or brick steps.

Metal balusters / racks are inserted into the installed thrust bearings, set strictly vertically, and welded. It is better to “grab” from four sides - to exclude the possibility of deviation in any direction. This completes the installation of metal balusters (stainless, nickel-plated, chrome-plated steel). Then you just need to install the handrail, which is also not particularly difficult.

If the wall thickness of the prefabricated tube metal railings too small for welding, it is not possible to select the appropriate welding mode, it is necessary to fasten the pipes to the heel pads with bolts. Clamping is still not recommended. Such a connection really quickly loosens up. can be drilled through holes in pipes, screw bolts of suitable diameter into them.

Another option for installing balusters from a bar: weld a hairpin to the bottom, screw it into a step. If desired, a nut can be glued into the hole in the step.

Lateral (end) fastening of balusters and pillars

Fastening racks to steps is the traditional way of mounting, but there is another way: fasten to the sidewall. In this way, you can fasten any type of railing: wooden, metal, glass. For metal and glass required special fasteners- clamps that are attached to the wall, and they themselves have a groove and a system for fixing racks for stairs. wooden poles and balusters are fixed through with a zip bolt or studs / self-tapping screws, hiding the heads under decorative covers.

With end-mounted racks, ladders are usually made with support pillars installed at a certain distance. Between the pillars, a filling is installed that is not connected with the base of the stairs, but only with the support posts. Of course, this is not a rule, but most of the stairs with a similar fastening of balusters and support pillars have this type.

The side mounting method is suitable for any stairs with a closed sidewall. Naturally, the sidewall material must have sufficient load-bearing capacity. The very method of attaching the ladder racks looks somewhat unusual, which adds decorativeness.

Forged railing for stairs with side mounting. Fasteners are made immediately “built-in” into the railing Non-standard approach Side fastening of glass railings - on special clamps

Usually, two clamps are used for each rack, which are located at a distance of 5-10 cm from one another. When marking, you can also use a stretched thread, a guide or laser level. The location is chosen mainly in the center of one of the steps. The number of racks is chosen based on the bearing capacity of the base to which they will be screwed. For wood, the normal pitch is 50-80 cm, for brick, concrete, etc. you can make long distances.

To date, the following forms and types of balusters for wooden stairs are distinguished:

Cylindrical - classic, simple support posts topped with symmetrical carvings different diameter performed either by hand or on lathe.
Thin and straight, unpretentious in design, sharpening rails, having the shape of a narrow ellipse or quadrangle in section.
Figured carved balusters, made, as a rule, from expensive tree species, manually. Very stylish and efficient staircase design components.

Thus, you can mount a staircase using the dimensions of a baluster for wooden stairs necessary for your projected design, you can completely and independently, armed with simple carpentry, fastening and other traditional tools.

For your information: for reliable installation of wooden railings to the stairs, it is recommended to use only metal tightening fasteners of intense impact, since they exclude the possibility of loosening the fastening directly during operation. It is absolutely unacceptable to use as fasteners for fixing wooden balusters, handrails, bowstrings (areas of increased loads) parts of inert action - nails, wooden dowels, self-tapping screws.

A beautiful staircase can transform any room beyond recognition. It will instantly make the interior elegant and stylish. An important role in this is played by balusters, which not only decorate the stairs, but are also the main supporting element of the railing. They can be made of metal, glass, gypsum, plastic, but wooden stair balusters are rightfully considered the most popular. There are hundreds of different types of balusters, ranging from simple smooth wooden posts to ornate carved columns. Handmade products are especially appreciated, since each such baluster is a real work of art.

The staircase is designed to move between floors, so first of all, it should be comfortable for all family members. Especially carefully you need to think over its design when there are elderly people or small children among the household.

There are several rules that should be followed when designing stairs:

The optimal distance between two balusters is 15 centimeters. If there are small children in the house, it should be reduced to 10 centimeters.
The height of the supports, together with the handrails, should be 90 centimeters or a little more.
Balusters are made only from hard rock trees that can easily support a person weighing about 100 kg if he leans on the railing with full force.
Supports must be firmly fixed at the top and bottom.
For children, it is advisable to install additional low railings, depending on the height of the child.

Do-it-yourself installation of balusters on a wooden staircase: basic rules

Depending on the structural features of the wooden staircase, the supports can be installed on a bowstring or directly on the steps (if the staircase is on stringers). For a novice master, the main thing is to correctly mark up and accurately calculate the amount of material required, then the installation of balusters will take a few hours, and the fence will be used for a long time without requiring repairs.

The installation process can be divided into several stages:

First, support posts are fixed at the top and bottom of the stairs, as well as on the platforms.
Next, you need to outline the places where the balusters will be attached (they should be at the same distance from each other). It is advisable to tighten the small screws in the steps and stretch the rope through them.
On the underside of the balusters, mark the center, and then drill a hole for the fastener.
If the support is installed under a slope, then you must first make an oblique cut of its lower part.
Fasteners are inserted into the balusters and securely fixed with glue.
Holes of the required diameter are drilled in the steps or bowstring, and then the supports are screwed on top.
The upper part of the balusters is cut at an angle, and then the railing is attached to it.

In order not to spoil the baluster when sawing, it is recommended to wrap construction tape around the cut point.

Tips from the masters: how to fix balusters on a wooden staircase

Depends on the quality of the attachment safe operation stairs. If all structural elements are securely and firmly fixed, then it will withstand any load for a long time.

There are three traditional ways to attach supports to stairs:

On dowels. A hole is drilled in the baluster and step for dowels (wooden rods, about 15 mm thick). Then the supports are fixed in the steps with PVA building glue. Until it dries completely, you need to make sure that someone does not accidentally move the support.
On stilettos. Holes (up to 8 centimeters deep) are drilled in the steps and in the center of the support for special studs (diameter 0.8 - 1 cm), covered with a protective layer against corrosion. The supports are simply screwed onto the studs. It is advisable to fix them with building PVA or wood glue.
For self-tapping screws. This method is the easiest and fastest, but professional craftsmen do not use it too often. The baluster is installed vertically and a long wood screw coated with an anti-corrosion layer is screwed in at an angle of approximately 45-60 0 from the side. His hat needs to be slightly drowned in a tree and then sealed with glue with sawdust or put a special plug on it to match the wood.

Optimum baluster dimensions for hardwood stairs

Balusters in the form of rounded streamlined columns with and without carved patterns are very popular. The recommended thickness is from 30x30 cm to 100x100 cm. It does not make sense to install supports of greater thickness, as they will look too bulky and take up a lot of space on the stairs. standard height balusters is 900 mm, but if the products are made to order or with your own hands, then it can be increased.

The design of some stairs provides for the installation of flat wooden balusters. They look quite original and unusual. Sometimes they form whole patterned arrays, from which you cannot take your eyes off. Their thickness must be at least 2 cm, and the width is arbitrary.

The strength of the entire structure is absolutely independent of the thickness of the baluster, so you need to choose products that will be in harmony with common style stairs or with the interior.

What is the difference between balusters for stairs made of oak from other wood

For the manufacture of balusters and support pillars, only hardwood is used in order for the structure to last as long as possible and be safe in operation.

The most popular are the following tree species:

Oak. Oak wood has a beautiful color and pattern, high strength and long service life. Oak supports do not deform from high and low temperatures, as well as high humidity. Oak is very much appreciated by craftsmen who are engaged in the manufacture of balusters with their own hands, since the finest curls and curls can be carved on its wood. small parts.
Beech. Beech wood is practically in no way inferior to oak, but has one significant drawback: it does not tolerate high humidity and quickly becomes unusable without special treatment.
Birch. birch wood at proper processing can last for many years in a dry room with constantly maintained the same temperature. But in other cases, it quickly cracks or deforms.
Ash. Ash wood is worse in quality than oak or beech, but it is resistant to high humidity and has a beautiful pattern.
Pine. Pine wood is easy to process, has a pleasant resinous aroma and tolerates temperature fluctuations well. In addition, it releases phytoncides into the air, which have an antibacterial effect. The wood grain is not clear. Over time, pine balusters may darken.
Larch. Larch wood has high strength, due to the content of the optimal composition of resins.

Oak wood is the most expensive of all wood species on the market. But its price is fully justified by the long service life, which is a hundred or more years. And the unique wood pattern will make even the simplest staircase chic.

What does a wooden staircase with wrought iron balusters look like in the interior

Wood and metal are perfectly combined with each other, so a wooden staircase with wrought iron railings will look very organic in the interior. The advantage of this tandem is that such a design can be installed not only indoors, but also outdoors. The metal is not afraid of frost and heat, pests, high moisture and is able to withstand heavy loads without deforming.

Forged balusters with all sorts of curls and interweaving of lines can decorate the interior of not only a country house or cottage, but also a cafe or restaurant.

It is necessary to order forged railings when the staircase is already ready, so that they fully fit in size.

Metal balusters can be attached:

For self-tapping screws;
On special hinges.

How to personally fix the balusters on a wooden staircase (video)

Installation and fastening of balusters, the first time it can be difficult, but following all the advice of the masters and step by step instructions, even a non-professional builder will quickly succeed. Properly selected balusters will transform the interior beyond recognition, and the stairs will become the pride of the owners of the house.

Balusters are vertical support posts, the main elements of the railing. Whether it's a railing for a staircase, a bridge balustrade or a veranda railing, it doesn't matter, the device and purpose are the same everywhere. From this article you will learn what balusters are and how to make them yourself.

What is a balustrade? - this is a railing of figured columns connected from above by a horizontal beam, a handrail;

Fencing posts perform several functions:

railing support;
security;
decorative element.

They can be visually divided into three parts:

handrail support;
central part;
baluster base.

The base of the baluster or pint is that part of the post that is attached to the steps or balusters. The central part performs protective and decorative functions. A handrail is installed at the upper end. This part of the post is always made with a small allowance so that you can adjust the height of the railing.

For the manufacture of classical balustrades, both traditional materials are used: wood, metal or concrete, as well as modern analogues: glass, plastic (PVC), polyurethane.

If you know what balusters are and have seen them many times, then you will agree that the most popular material for their manufacture is still wood. This is due to the ease of processing the material and the possibility of giving any shape.

Wooden balusters for stairs

Wooden balusters are made using three main technologies:

turned balusters- the most common type, which is performed on a lathe using special cutters;
milled. On racks of this type there are threads in the form of a screw, braids or other decorative elements;
carved balusters, that is, pillars on which there are thread elements. For manufacturing, multi-axis machine tools with program control are used.

Stair railings consist of balusters (racks) and pillars. Entrance poles are mounted at the beginning and end of flights of stairs, as well as at the corners of the landings. They are made in the same style and differ only in height and cross section, for example, if square balusters have a side of 45 to 50 mm, then fence posts - from 80 to 100 mm. The height differs by 10-20 cm.

In accordance with GOST 25772-83, it must be taken into account that in order to ensure the safety of the operation of the stairs, the distance between the balusters must be:

stairs for the house - no more than 15 centimeters.
combined or screen railings - 30 cm.
stairs in children's institutions - 10 cm.

Flat wooden balusters

As a rule, racks in cross section have the shape of a circle or square. However, along with models of the traditional form, flat balusters are also used, which are used not only as a fence for flights of stairs, but also for gazebos, verandas, balconies and other structures.

Flat carved balusters can be installed close to each other, forming a single pattern. Thus, it is possible to perform complex ornaments of large sizes, thanks to which wooden balustrades acquire a finished appearance.

To make flat wooden balusters, you need to stock up on blanks right size. Choose a suitable pattern and sketch. Then transfer the drawing to the workpiece and cut it out with a jigsaw along the contour.

When the ornament is sawn out, they proceed to finishing with cutters - all patterns and decorative elements are turned, made smooth and symmetrical.

What type of wood to choose?

It is very important to choose the right material, because not only the cost of the product, but also its performance characteristics will depend on this. It is recommended that the steps and pillars for stairs be made of the same wood. This will avoid deformation of the structure in the future. For the production of wooden racks, hardwoods are used.

Oak

Balusters made of oak are characterized by high wear resistance and strength, resistance to decay. The wood is dark brown or light brown in color. An important advantage is that oak balusters are not subject to cracking and do not warp. The dense structure allows you to make the smallest details and even curved elements - all types of balusters and material processing methods are accessible.

Beech

Balusters made of beech are almost as hard as oak in quality and hardness, while they are easily processed and bent. Wood lends itself well to impregnation various formulations, which contributes to the long service life of varnish and paint coatings.

The disadvantage of this type of wood is that when it dries, it warps and rots a lot, so it is recommended to use beech balusters only in rooms with low humidity. Beech is used to imitate such valuable breeds like walnut or mahogany.

Ash

Outwardly, ash wood resembles oak, but is inferior to it in hardness and strength. The structure is elastic, dense and heavy. Its distinguishing feature is durability and resistance to decay. Ash has beautiful texture yellowish color with dark and light stripes. Balusters made of ash can withstand significant loads, especially bending loads. The wood warps a little and bends well when steamed.

Birch

This tree is used somewhat less frequently than the species described above. Birch has average density, hardness and strength with good toughness. The disadvantage of birch is its tendency to crack, significant shrinkage, susceptibility to decay. But at the same time, birch is easy to process, easy to glue, polish, paint. Birch, when using appropriate dyes, is easily given the appearance of precious woods: gray maple, mahogany or walnut.

Pine balusters

Pine belongs to soft breeds, due to which it is easily processed by cutting tools and lends itself well to grinding. Pine balusters are immune to temperature changes and are resistant to fungal attack. The color of the wood varies from light yellow to yellowish red. Pine has areas with different porosity, so the paint is absorbed unevenly, which reduces the quality of the coating.

Larch

Balusters made of larch have a red-brown or brown color. This tree is inferior to oak in hardness, but surpasses it in strength, and, over time, wood, due to the special composition of the resin, only becomes stronger. Larch is not subject to warping, but during the drying process, internal cracks may occur. Railings and balusters made of larch are durable and do not rot.

Racks can be made from rarer and more expensive types of wood that cannot be bought in a store. In this case, you should contact the manufacturer directly or a specialized company that produces custom-made balusters.

Baluster making machine

Manual frezer

Milled balusters can be cut on a homemade machine, which is shown in the photo. This requires a cylindrical workpiece.

A platform is movably mounted on a threaded shaft (1) (2 - in the figure it is in a raised state), on which, in turn, an electric drive (3) with a wood cutter (4) is fixed.

When exposed to the handle (5), the wooden blank (6) starts to rotate. At the same time, the platform moves along the shaft in horizontal plane. As a result, a spiral line is cut on the workpiece. The depth and width of the notch is determined by the size of the cutter, and the pitch of the helix is determined by the size of the gear. Depending on the complexity of the task, the manufacture of balusters manual router takes from 15 minutes to several hours.

The production of wooden balusters can be simplified by using a machine with a copier. In this case, a template is first prepared, as shown in the photo.

The essence of this method is that the depth of the cut is not adjusted manually, but with the help of a thrust-guiding roller that moves along the template. First, with the help of a roller of a larger diameter, the workpiece is roughed. Then a roller of a smaller diameter is put on and final finishing is performed. The machine for the production of balusters is shown in the figure.

A manual milling machine is mounted on a movable carriage. The cutter can move along a line perpendicular to the axis of rotation. The distance to the center of the workpiece depends on the position of the guide roller moving along the template.

When using this method, balusters and railings in general are obtained in a more complex and perfect form. CNC machines allow you to make the most beautiful specimens of any level of complexity.

Manufacturing of wooden balusters

The manufacture of wooden balusters is a complex process that requires certain skill and equipment that will ensure the rotation of the workpiece along the longitudinal axis. Most often, a lathe is used for this purpose.

The production of balusters consists of several stages.

Design

First of all, it is necessary to take into account the size of the stairs - the number of racks that need to be made will depend on this. The height of the baluster is defined as the difference between overall height handrails and handrail thickness coated steps. As a rule, the value ranges from 65 to 100 cm.

Next, you need to decide on the design. Samples of balusters can be found on the Internet. After the sketch is selected, it is necessary to transfer it to the drawing, indicating the dimensions. In this case, all sections are numbered and the depth of the cuts is noted. For example, drawing a baluster the simplest form might look like this:

All marks must be transferred to the workpiece and numbered in order to know which tool to use for a particular part.

Baluster turning

It is very important to fix the workpiece strictly in the center in order to avoid beats and distortions. If the workpiece has the shape of a square bar, then diagonals are drawn at the ends, and the baluster is fastened strictly at the point of their intersection. In this place it is necessary to make a recess.

In order for the turned balusters to have a rounded shape, sharpening is done with the help of a reyer. To simplify the process, professionals recommend first grinding off the corners, turning it into an octahedron. To do this, a cutter of the required width, located perpendicular to the axis of rotation, makes a straight cut to the required depth, and the workpiece takes on the following form:

Fastening wooden balusters to the stairs - video and photo instructions

Balusters made of wood can be installed on the steps of the stairs, or on a bowstring or kosour. For fixing, hardware, anchors (dowels) or special brackets are used. In this case, several rules must be observed:

the distance between the balusters should be no more than 150 mm;
height from 90 cm to a meter;
entry posts are installed at the beginning and end of the flight of stairs and at the corners of the site.

It should be remembered that fastening balusters with nails does not provide sufficient strength to the structure. And later causes squeaks and discrepancies in parts.

Before you install the pillars on the stairs, you need to make holes in the ends, strictly in the center. To do this, you can make a simple device, consisting of a drill mounted on a chipboard shield, and a wooden block with a centering hole. To prevent the rack from staggering, a bar is used to fix its position.

This device allows you to drill even recesses in the base of the balusters, the diameter of which is 2 mm smaller than the diameter of the fastener.

The installation of balusters made of hard wood is carried out using metal studs with a cross section of 6-10 mm and a length of 60-100 mm or wooden dowels with a diameter of 8 to 14 mm and a length of 50-80 mm. Stair poles are fixed with larger fasteners.

In the example, we will use 8x100mm metal studs for the uprights and 10x100mm for the posts.

Before installing the balusters on the stairs, it is necessary to mark the steps and determine the points on which the racks will be attached. To do this, we mark the places for the extreme pillars, on the first and last steps, and screw the screws into them, but not completely. You should not place racks on the very edge of the step, make an indent of 5-10 cm, depending on the depth of the tread.
Between the screws we stretch the fishing line, which will serve as a guide for marking the steps. With the help of a square, we draw center lines and mark the centers of the racks.
We make a small hole under each rack with a thin drill. Then, using a device for perpendicular drilling, we ream these recesses to a diameter of 5 mm.
We put a few nuts on the outer end of the stud and screw it in. When everything is ready, remove the nuts. Repeat this for all racks and poles.
We screw the racks into the holes made in the steps. Before finally fixing, we check the distance between the balusters and their alignment.

When the installation of the balusters is completed, you can attach the handrail. For this upper part we cut off the two extreme racks at the right angle, apply a rail to them and mark the place for the cut on the rest. In accordance with the markup, we saw off all the tops.

When working with a miter saw, wrap the cut with tape, so you can avoid chipping the wood.

With self-tapping screws we fasten the railing rail to the uprights, on which the handrail is subsequently mounted.

The ends of the handrail are cut so that they stand close to the posts. Niches for fasteners are cut out on the reverse side.

At the end, we fix the handrail to the railing rail with self-tapping screws and close it with a decorative overlay, cut into pieces and glued between the posts.

Metal balusters for stairs

Compared to wood, metal balusters have a number of advantages, the main of which are their durability, ease of maintenance, and the ability to use both indoors and outdoors. In addition, they look aesthetically pleasing and blend perfectly with other materials. For example, you can see combined balusters, the base of which is made of stainless steel, and the core is made of glass or wood.

Metal railings, due to the variety of forms, can become an adornment of any architectural ensemble. They are used not only as a fence for flights of stairs, but also for balconies, terraces, etc. Forged balusters for stairs look especially advantageous. Let's see what kind of metals are used:

Stainless steel

Stainless steel balusters are undoubtedly the most sought after. Benefits include:

ease of manufacture of racks. Modern methods of metalworking make it possible to make both seamless railings, made using welding, and modular, for the assembly of which hardware and brackets are used;
high anti-corrosion performance. Chrome-plated stainless steel balusters are excellent for use in environments with variable temperatures and high humidity. Such products successfully resist corrosion caused by acids, chlorine solutions, alkalis and other aggressive substances;
strength steel allows you to significantly reduce the thickness of the racks and give the whole structure a lightness and a feeling of airiness. The material does not lose its properties at low temperatures, which allows the wide use of stainless steel balusters for outdoor stairs.

Cast iron

Cast iron balusters are reliable and elegant railings for stairs. This material has its advantages:

durability. Cast iron does not lose its aesthetic and physical properties over a long period of time, remaining beautiful and durable. It can be said without exaggeration that the staircase with cast-iron balusters is built to last;
mode of production cast-iron railings (casting) allows you to make a product with the most complex configuration - any shape and content is available.
functionality. Cast iron balusters are suitable for stairs made of any material, be it wood, metal or reinforced concrete. Based on this, certain methods of fastening to the steps are used:
1. using welding or brackets for metal stairs;
2. concreting in steps for monolithic structures;
3. threaded connections or installation on a dowel for solid steps.

iron balusters

Iron lends itself perfectly to forging, which makes it possible to make beautiful railings. Often, forged balusters are made to order, which allows you to adjust the balustrade to the existing design of the room, porch or balcony. Iron is susceptible to corrosion, but the use of modern protective coatings provides resistance to environmental influences.

Forged balusters have only two drawbacks: high price and manufacturing complexity.

Metal processing methods

Metal balusters are made by casting or forging.

Forged balusters

For wrought iron railings, the most suitable are soft grades of iron, steel or copper. There are two processing methods:

cold forging;
hot.

In the first case, a blank is cut out of the metal, which is stamped or bent on special equipment. Further, various forging elements and decorative inserts in balusters are welded to it. The cold forging method allows you to independently manufacture simple fencing elements. The advantage of this method is its low cost, and the disadvantage is the high labor intensity of the process.

At hot forging the workpiece is heated to a high temperature, at which the metal becomes ductile and easily acquires the desired shape. In this case, it is possible to manufacture a more perfect form of a balustrade, but this method requires deep knowledge and considerable experience in working with metal.

Cast balusters

The metal is heated to higher temperatures than forging, at which it is melted and liquid is poured into the mold. Most often, cast balusters are made of steel or cast iron. There are several types of casting:

in sandy-clay forms;
investment models;
in a chill mold;
vacuum casting and others.

The main advantage of this method is its wastelessness and the ability to make any version of the baluster of the most ideal shape, exactly repeating the workpiece.

How to DIY

To make metal racks in " home environment» the cold forging method is used. For convenience, you can use a homemade bending machine, for example, as in the photo.

Depending on the shape of the circle, any shape can be given to the metal profile - made different types balusters. If the product consists of several elements, then they are connected by spot welding.

Do-it-yourself baluster installation

When installing metal racks, two main methods are used:

installation on a step- the most popular method in which anchoring of balusters is used;
at the end of the step. A more complex option, when the railing is mounted on special brackets and does not reduce the usable width of the steps;

Concrete balusters

Concrete balustrades are functional and aesthetic, they will give your home an aristocracy and elegance. Due to the qualities of the material, the product is not afraid of dampness or sudden changes in temperature. It is strong and durable.

Concrete balusters are made by pouring mortar into a mold. To make a mold, you need a model, which can be a ready-made stand made of concrete or a blank made of any other material. Such a model can be made from plaster on a simple machine (shown in the figure).

1 - handle for rotating the workpiece;

2 - baluster template;

3 - the axis on which the gypsum mixture is applied;

4 - axle mount.

The principle of operation of the machine is as follows: a gypsum mortar is fed to the rotating axis, the excess of which is cut off by the edges of the template and flows into the tray. Gypsum gradually accumulates, forming a baluster desired shape. After the solution hardens, the disc is scrolled several more times, cutting off upper layer. This is necessary because the gypsum expands when dried, respectively, and the size of the product increases.

The rod is pre-wrapped with paper so that the gypsum balusters do not stick and can be easily separated.

The resulting workpiece must be processed so that there are no open pores left. To do this, the surface is puttied and cleaned with sandpaper. After that, it must be primed and varnished. A model prepared in this way lasts much longer.

From the made blank, you can remove plaster, glue or cement lumpy forms.

Such a machine can be used not only for preparing models necessary for the manufacture of molds, but also directly for the production of concrete racks. How this is done is shown in the video.

First, a disk is cast, the diameter of which is approximately 5 centimeters larger than the section of the plaster model, and glued to its end, serving as a base. Further, places are marked on the disk for fractional pieces, from which the shell of the form for balusters will be formed. In these places, holes are drilled on the reverse side - these will be locks with which it will be possible to assemble the form without distortions.

The whole structure is divided in half, into two rows. Next, methodically collect the first row, as shown in the figure. All parts are lubricated with a release agent. Gypsum mortar is poured between the model and the formed board.

Forms for balusters are cast from gypsum, to which lime is added so that the material does not deform, and citric acid so that it does not set so quickly.

After solidification, the structure is disassembled and the edges are cut. Holes are drilled on the upper part for pieces of the second row. Details are varnished and lubricated. The structure is assembled again, a side for the second sector is built, everything is smeared and filled with a gypsum solution.

Finished sectors are interconnected. For greater strength, you can still cast the outer casing in the same way as the mold itself was cast, only it is made of two halves. For ease of use, handles are inserted into it during casting. The form is ready, now you can start making the pillars.

Now in stores there are many molds made of polymers, fiberglass or other materials. plastic molds convenient to use and durable. With their help, you can make balusters of any configuration with your own hands.

Production of concrete balusters

Our mold can be used for both casting and beating balusters. Both methods are widely used and have their own advantages.

Beating balusters

The peculiarity of the process is that the balusters are beaten using an almost dry solution. To do this, the sand is mixed with cement and aggregate in a dry form. Then they are evenly poured with small portions of water and thoroughly mixed.

You can understand that the solution is ready and meets the requirements as follows. Take a small amount of the mixture and squeeze it in your hand. If, after unclenching the hand, the substance has not disintegrated, it is ready for use.

The prepared solution is poured into the mold in small portions, in layers from 50 to 100 mm thick, and compacted well, as shown in the video. Thus, the form is filled to the very top.

Next, carefully remove the casing and pieces of the form. Be extremely careful, because the broken balusters have not yet had time to finally grab. Before complete drying, the product should not be subjected to any mechanical stress. And only in two days the rack will be ready for installation.

Rack casting

For casting concrete balusters, a mold with an upper piece in the form of a lid is used. Gypsum or concrete mortar, the neck is tightly closed, and by rotating the mold in a horizontal plane, a more uniform distribution of the solution over the vessel is achieved. After a couple of hours, the mold is disassembled and the casting is removed. By repeating the procedure, you can do it yourself required amount racks.

Balusters and poles made by the described methods do not require additional grinding and puttying.

Installation of concrete balusters - installation of a concrete balustrade

It is necessary to think in advance about how you will fix the balusters. For this, at the top and lower parts forms, metal inserts are installed - pins 10 cm long for the bottom and 5 cm for the top. Sometimes thin reinforcement is used, passing through the entire rack.

If a concrete balustrade will be installed on a metal staircase, then this tab is simply welded to the flight of stairs. If the staircase is concrete, then it is necessary to drill holes for the anchor in the steps and, after installing the racks, fill them with mortar. The video perfectly shows how to properly install balusters and poles - to make a balustrade.

Stone balusters - stone balustrades

Balusters from natural stone at the same time they are both the most beautiful and expensive. Railings made of massive pillars create a special charm of majesty and monumentality. A stone balustrade will serve as a wonderful decoration of the interior, emphasizing the luxury of the furnishings of the house and garden plot. For the production of stone balusters, the following rocks are used:

granite balusters. Granite is a very strong, hard and dense rock. Widely used in construction and facing material. Possesses high resistance to pollution and a frost, and also low water absorption. That is why granite balusters can be used both indoors and outdoors;
marble balusters. Unlike concrete, natural marble will never mold or crack. It is used for the manufacture of railings for both indoor and outdoor structures. It is applied to registration of balustrades of balconies, ladders, terraces;
sandstone balusters. A feature of this breed is the ability to polish the surface to a mirror finish. Sandstone is easy to grind and polish, but very often the natural roughness is left to the stone. The breed is distinguished by a pronounced characteristic pattern and a wide color palette. Stone balusters made of sandstone have increased strength and are very durable.

All of the above rocks are natural, and therefore expensive. What to do if you don't have enough money to buy natural stone. There is an exit. Today, when technology has gone very far, balusters made of artificial stone have become widespread. Look at the photo below. If you think these wonderful railings are made of natural breed, rare and very expensive. You are wrong. This stone balustrade is the result of innovative technology.

Often, non-natural material looks much better. Modern technologies capable of many things, including imitating naturalness. The palette of colors and shades, patterns and textures will be much wider for stone balusters made in the laboratory.

This product has serious advantages over natural material:

a wide choice of colors and textures;
imitation of absolutely any natural stone;
excellent performance characteristics;
affordable price.

Artificial stone railings are resistant to aggressive substances, such as household chemicals. Therefore, in the house, such products are preferable to natural ones.

Production process

Artificial stone balusters are produced by casting, similar to concrete ones. First, a wooden blank is turned. According to it, a plaster mold is made, consisting of several parts. Inside, the surface is coated with a layer of water-repellent lubricant. This is followed by a key manufacturing step: a special solution is poured into the mold, which, after drying, will become an artificial stone. The mold is placed on the centrifuge and quickly rotated in a horizontal plane to distribute the mixture evenly. After the solution hardens, the form is disassembled. And already finished post subjected to a finishing treatment to obtain a luster.

Glass balusters

Now more and more often various elements of stairs, including railings, are made of non-traditional materials, such as glass. Such pillars in combination with glass steps will give a special look to the stairs, creating a feeling of lightness. Glass harmonizes with all kinds of materials, from metals to plastics, which makes it possible to create combined balusters.

For production, laminated silicate glass is used, the individual layers of which are glued together by a strong polymer film. Such glass is also called building triplex. It's almost impossible to break it: hard hit the material will not withstand, but it will not disintegrate into small fragments - only cracks will appear on it.

Glass balusters and poles are fixed with wood or metal fasteners. It can be hinges or special nozzles. Flat screens made of glass are inserted into a pre-cut groove or mounted on brackets.

Racks made of other materials

Polyurethane balusters
Inside the polyurethane sheath is metal pipe, which gives rigidity and strength to the entire structure. Polyurethane balusters are able to withstand loads no less than traditional materials. But the damaged part can be easily dismantled and replaced with a new one. Among their advantages is also ease of manufacture, speed of installation and low cost.

plastic railing
They are made of polymer plastics, which are devoid of all the shortcomings of natural materials and can imitate almost any of them, for example, wood. Typically used high impact polystyrene or PVC, the structures of which are lightweight and high strength.

Plaster balusters
Often used as templates and samples for the manufacture of racks from other materials. By appearance very similar to concrete counterparts and are also produced. The main advantages are:

the possibility of implementing the most daring design decisions;
ecological purity of raw materials;
resistance to shrinkage and deformation;
light weight and ease of installation.

At the same time, gypsum balusters are durable, and if necessary, such a structure can be easily repaired.

There are other types of balusters from various materials and designs.

Conclusion

Now you know what a baluster is and what a balustrade is and are able to use the information received when buying or manufacturing these staircase elements. Do not be afraid to experiment and the result will exceed all your expectations.

Balusters are short posts that are made using carvings. Their main purpose is to support the railings of balconies and stairs. The shape of the balusters can be different, it all depends on the design decision and interior design. This addition is able to decorate even the most nondescript staircase.

Overview of the main varieties by material

Balusters for stairs made of wood are made of different species, quite often they are decorated with point curly elements. For balusters, the following grades are usually used, which determines the types of elements:

Birch;
pine.

The cheapest are pine balusters, while those made of beech or oak are much more expensive.

Baluster sizes

Balusters for stairs made of wood should be installed according to certain rules. Among others, the need to provide clearance between the elements, which is usually 140 mm or more, should be highlighted. The most suitable is 950 mm.

Supports should be fixed at two points - at the base of the stairs and in the railing area. The area and thickness of the section of the balusters play a decisive role in the safety of the structure. This leads to the fact that the issue of choosing the dimensions of the described elements should be taken seriously. After all, they perform a supporting function. Balusters are usually chosen depending on the style of the room.

Classification of wooden balusters by grades and their description

Balusters for stairs made of wood can be classified by grade. The highest grade is grade A, which assumes a uniform selection of texture and color. Such material provides a transparent finish with a medium or light tint. Therefore, slight differences and slight differences in texture are possible. Such products may have eyes, healthy knots and closed cracks, but their diameter should not exceed 5 mm.

Balusters for stairs made of wood can be made in grade B. In this case, we are talking about products with a partial selection of texture and color. Blanks are tinted in dark shades. Differences can be contrasting, textural differences are possible. In one batch, you can find products that will have eyes and healthy knots.

In grade C, you can find balusters that are not matched by texture and color. Knots can be dark and light, but their size should not be large. Dead knots can be found on the inside of the products. Individual balusters sometimes have fragments of sapwood. Puttying of knots and cracks at the manufacturing stage is acceptable.

Reviews of balusters in three quality categories

Balusters for stairs made of wood, the description of which will be useful to read before purchasing the goods, are offered for sale in three quality categories. Consumers leave their feedback about each of them. By choosing products in the "Economy Plus" category, you become the owner of products that undergo milling and partial machine grinding during processing. According to consumers, it is better to purchase such balusters for stairs that will be installed in corridors or hallways.

On sale you can find balusters of the "Prestige" category. They are milled and worked out by hand, as well as polished. Such products are more expensive than the previous ones, but, according to consumers, they have more high quality. The most durable and attractive in appearance are the VIP category balusters, they are milled, polished by hand during processing, and the details are finalized separately. All elements are worked out as carefully as possible in the factory, so they are most often preferred by consumers.

The cost of wooden balusters

The dimensions of the baluster for wooden stairs will affect the cost. For example, products with dimensions of 50 x 900 mm will cost 85 rubles. a piece. In this and subsequent cases, the cost is indicated for a pine element. With an increase in size to 80 x 80 x 900 mm, the price rises to 300 rubles. a piece. If you need to purchase a baluster with dimensions of 100 x 100 x 900 mm, then one element will cost 360 rubles.